Shed frame made of profile pipe. Metal sheds for summer cottages

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A shed is a necessary part of almost every suburban area and homestead farming. You can’t do without it even at the dacha. Increasingly, profiled steel sheets are being used for the construction of sheds.

Features of material selection

When choosing a metal profile before starting construction, you need to pay attention increased attention. And the point is not only that it is necessary to eliminate confusion between the material intended for the walls and the profile for finishing the roof. The sheet that is intended for finishing the facade is marked with the capital letter “C”. After it comes a numerical index, from 8 to 21, which tells a lot to professionals. Metal profiles of groups C8 and C10 are recommended for inside walls, all other brands can be placed outside.

If you need to make the strongest possible wall, it is advisable to use sheets with corrugation reaching a height of 18-21 mm. But, in addition to the corrugation parameters, it is also worth thinking about the width of the gutters, which directly affects the total rigidity of the product. The best gutters are those that channel rainwater down and prevent it from penetrating under the roof. They make the wall more durable than most simple solutions. It is very important to calculate the load in advance so as not to mount unnecessarily expensive designs and not face the risk of collapse.

But saving on the quality of corrugated sheeting does not justify itself at all. Good steel with a zinc layer still quickly rusts under the pressure of rain and snow. Very soon the characteristic dirty spots will appear. Polyester, polyurethane or plastisol are much more reliable. On top wooden frame corrugated sheets can be placed both vertically and horizontally, which is important to take into account when calculating the amount of material.

Place on the site for construction

But the choice suitable material– this is just the beginning. It is extremely important to choose appropriate place for a shed made of corrugated board.

The main criteria here will be:

the impossibility or impracticality of growing plants;
low illumination;
convenient access regardless of time of day or year;
equidistance in relation to the house, other outbuildings and the entrance (entrance);
minimal risk of flooding from rain and snow.

Each of these points is equally important. So, taking up space where you can grow vegetables or at least flowers is impractical. At least sometimes quite significant loads need to be brought into and out of the barn. Therefore, the more conveniently it is located, the better for residents. Flooding water can ruin not only wall structures and foundations, but also almost any thing.

Sanitary standards require not to build a shed closer than 12 m from residential buildings both on your own site and on neighboring households. Even with strict adherence to standards, distances to the fence, and so on, it is advisable to discuss your intentions with your neighbors in advance. Conflicts are not worth the benefits of arbitrarily choosing a location. Typically, the building is turned with windows and a door to the south to increase illumination and speed up drying. Of course, it is also important to remember about the distances from gas pipes, wells, boreholes, power lines, about the maximum permissible slope of the terrain.

Most owners try to “hide” the shed behind the house, bringing it closer to the gardens. This is not only convenient, but also justified by the very unpresentable appearance of the building. But structures made from corrugated sheets are an exception, especially if they fit well into the landscape. To decorate the space, designs with patterns on the facade or having an original geometric shape are chosen. In any case, it is worth thinking about the balance between utility and external elegance.

Construction order

The most practical shape for a do-it-yourself shed is a rectangle. Preparing drawings in advance will help eliminate the slightest errors and unaccounted points. It is recommended to assemble the structure with screws. This is not only faster and cheaper than welding, but also safer and allows the building to be quickly dismantled if necessary. The selected site is cleared of everything that could interfere with the construction and operation of the barn.

It is very important to think about the arrangement of windows and doors at the design stage. During the construction itself experienced craftsmen carefully check whether the vertical and horizontal lines of these elements are clearly maintained and whether there are any deviations from the plane. At the bottom, the opening is cut down at an angle of 30 degrees; later, a window sill will be installed there, cut at the same angle. This will make it easier for water to drain out. Closing the joints and cracks with sealants will help increase the service life of the window.

At interior decoration use oriented particle boards. If there is even the slightest opportunity, they take care of installing the electrical wiring. It is recommended to equip the walls with shelves or mount shelving. Please note: the sizes of shelves and racks may vary, since things of different weights and dimensions will have to be stored. To create shelves and other structures, you should use only well-planed wood to reduce the risk of splinters.

Foundation

The site for the foundation is made on a well-prepared site, choosing the type of foundation in advance:

monolithic slab;
ready-made blocks;
poured tape.

Since a building made from corrugated sheets is light in weight, it can be placed on blocks or tape with a shallow recess. The number of cases where it is necessary to form a slab is very small. A monolithic base has another advantage that is not related to the strength of the building - it turns into the floor of a future barn. The pits are surrounded by formwork. It doesn’t matter whether the tape is poured around the perimeter or a monolith over the entire area, you need to wait 4 days until the concrete hardens completely.

It is better to create solid foundations by filling 0.5 m of a 1:1 mixture of sand and gravel. Note: this backfill should not reach the very edge. The backfilled layer is thoroughly compacted and covered with crushed stone, slightly rising above the ground. After compaction, it is covered with a mesh of reinforcement and wooden formwork is placed around the entire perimeter. Now you can pour concrete to a depth of approximately 0.3 m.

Frame

The step-by-step instructions provide for performing the bottom piping in such a way that it then becomes the basis for laying the floor and installing vertical supports. The beams are secured with tenons and grooves, additionally strengthening them with metal corners. The floor is laid using cross members with a pitch of no more than 0.6 m. Having connected the racks of vertical supports with the bottom structure, then you need to connect them with the top trim.

All these details are verified in advance according to the construction level. But even during the construction process, their geometry should be controlled. Connections are created by screwing at certain angles long screws, reinforcement is made with steel corners. The mutual distance of any two racks by more than 100 cm is not allowed.

Attention: window and door openings will have to be built simultaneously with the frame, since they are its components. Since steel sheet and profile pipe are “cold” materials, you will have to insulate them for the sake of comfort at the dacha or in a country house. For thermal protection of structures made from corrugated sheets, you can use basalt slabs, which do not burn, allow steam to pass through and are environmentally friendly. Cheaper glass wool slabs are harmful to health when working and the slightest violation integrity of the “pie”, in addition, after 10-15 years they lose valuable qualities.

Walls

When the frame is ready, you need to start building the walls. Paronite gaskets must be placed in them, creating a thermal break. Plates of insulating materials are mounted using dowels, and films are attached on top that stop the action of moisture and gusts of wind. Guides in the shape of the letter “P,” if attached to the bracket, will help level the front surface; There should be air gaps between them and the films. Next, the profiles are attached horizontally to the vertically placed guides.

Insulation with sawdust is not very practical: yes, they are cheap, but they cake quickly, get wet easily and deteriorate. Mineral wool is usually placed on top of wooden sheathing. A vapor barrier film is always placed above it, since the slightest dampness is contraindicated. Foam boards can be glued without wasting effort on mechanical fasteners. But you will additionally need a sheet overlay to reduce the risk of mechanical destruction.

Roof

The roof on the barn can be made with one or two slopes. Single slope solutions They require one wall to be raised above the opposite one, otherwise there will be no slope. In regions with warm winters An inclination of 15-20 degrees is enough, but if there are frequent snowstorms in some area or a lot of precipitation falls, you need to increase it to 30-45 degrees. A roof that is too steep is also impractical; it can easily collapse even under the pressure of a moderate wind.

In any case, first prepare the rafters and install the sheathing on them. To make the job easier, truss structures collected on the ground and only then lifted, placing it from the end. The skate is carefully aligned along the center line, which is marked with a rope. A layer is placed on the sheathing to protect it from water, then a corrugated sheet comes in (already roofing, of course). The internal plane of the roof is decorated with clapboard or plastic panels.

The barn is the one outbuilding, which the owner cannot do without land plot. It will reliably cover garden tools, tools, furniture and other necessary things. Barn from profile pipe, built with your own hands, is a good solution for a thrifty owner. It is easy to weld it from scrap materials or buy it ready-made and assemble it on site.

A barn made from a profile pipe differs little in cost from a wooden one and is much cheaper than a brick one. The purpose of an outbuilding can be different. Advantages and disadvantages metal structure should be considered from the point of view of its use.

Advantages of buildings made from profile pipes:

Reliability. A frame made of a profile pipe, installed on a flat and dense base, will last for decades without deformation. It will hermetically seal the contents from atmospheric moisture and street dirt. Neither rodents nor intruders will penetrate it.
High fire safety.
Aesthetics. Ready-made samples offer multiple design solutions. If the barn is intended to fit into the landscape of the site, then the metal can be covered not only with galvanization, but also polymer materials different color. A simple outbuilding made of corrugated galvanized steel will look neat and will not lose appearance from exposure to precipitation and temperature changes.
Economical. Construction, especially if the structure is assembled with your own hands from scrap materials, will be inexpensive. The finished building will not require expensive maintenance.

Ready-made sheds offered by manufacturers are sold unassembled. They don't take up much space in the package. Assembly is carried out using bolts and can be done by any owner. To build a collapsible version of a shed from a profile pipe, you do not need to know how to use a grinder or a welding machine.

Disadvantages of outbuildings made of metal:

Freezing. If you are not planning to keep livestock in the barn, then this minus can be ignored. In a shed made of metal profiles it is impossible to leave winter storage materials that are prohibited from freezing. For example, oil paint.
Metal rusting. To eliminate this shortcoming, everything structural elements the barn should be inspected annually and treated with anti-corrosion protection in places where galvanization is damaged or polymer coating. If this homemade version, then it is enough to tint or coat the metal with a primer in time.

Note! A shed made of metal profiles can be used as a garage. For this purpose it is equipped with sliding doors.

Technologies for constructing sheds from profiles

A shed from a profile pipe can be made stationary or mobile. In the first case, the building is installed on concrete base, with filling of racks. In the second case, you just need a flat area, the supporting base will be a metal frame.

Every home craftsman can build a shed from corrugated sheet metal, as well as many other outbuildings with minimal costs strength With your own hands, such structures made of corrugated sheets can be erected quite quickly and without serious difficulties.

1

Summer residents and owners of country houses build a wide variety of buildings from corrugated sheets. Including sheds that are used for storage gardening tools and all kinds of tools. You can build such a building with your own hands using following diagram. First you choose suitable site(it is advisable that the residential building be located at some distance from it), clear the site of the top layer of soil (50–60 centimeters deep). Draw up a plan for the shed, decide on its geometric parameters and the materials you will use.

Shed made of profiled sheets

For such buildings, it is recommended to purchase 0.4 mm thick. You will also need edged boards, wooden beams with a cross section of 10–15 cm, self-tapping screws, mounting angles, pieces of reinforcement, cladding and insulation materials, if you plan to finish and insulate the building from the inside. Making a foundation for a shed in the form concrete slab(monolithic). Take its dimensions slightly larger than the area of the building being constructed. In the corners of the slab, dig holes half a meter deep, pour crushed stone onto their bottom, and compact it. Then mount vertically in the mini-pits made metal racks and fill them up concrete mixture(3 parts sand and part cement).

Make formwork from boards around the perimeter of the slab. For these purposes, you can use boards about 0.8 m wide. Please note that the previously installed racks must be inside the formwork. Now you fill the plank structure with concrete, immediately getting both the floor of the barn and its foundation. After the base has hardened, you proceed directly to the construction of the planned building with your own hands. For these purposes, use wooden blocks, corners or profiles (if you plan to make the barn spacious enough) made of metal. You need to securely attach these elements to the racks in order to obtain a strong frame for mounting the profiled sheets. The next step is to install the roof purlins. You can also make them from boards and corners.

Do not try to come up with a special roof design, because you are not building a full-fledged house, but just a small utility facility. For a barn, a regular pitched roof would be ideal. You can build it with your own hands quickly; you don’t need any special skills.

After installing the roof, begin covering the building with profiled products. Experts advise finishing the shed with vertical whole sheets (without horizontal joints). By the way, if you want, you should do the same. In cases where finishing is done horizontally, start with the installation of the lower products. And then post top sheets with obligatory overlap on the previous ones. Treat areas of contact between individual products with sealant. This way, your shed will never leak.

2

Profiled products make excellent buildings intended for parking cars. Vehicle. A garage made of corrugated sheets has a lot of advantages, it:

easy to build with your own hands;
is a durable building;
It is non-flammable and has good resistance to frost;
requires low costs for the purchase of materials for construction;
can be disassembled and moved to another location at any time.

Garage made of corrugated sheets

A garage made of corrugated sheets is constructed according to the scheme that we described above. Dig holes, install racks (their function is performed by steel pipes suitable diameter), pour the foundation. Then you should weld the frame of the future garage. Profiled products will subsequently need to be attached to this skeleton. The frame is made simply - you weld profiles and corners to metal pipe racks (the first are needed for installing walls, the second - for gates). The formwork that you will pour, as in the case of erecting a barn, will play the role of a floor. Cover it with crushed stone and lay it out paving slabs or leave it earthy. It all depends on your desire.

Be sure to frame the roof with a slight slope towards the back of the garage. After assembling the frame, you can cover it with corrugated sheets. They, as you remember, must be mounted vertically. The first profiled product should be fixed without protrusions on the corner post. The operation is performed with universal self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Fasten from top to bottom, and then be sure to sew the corrugated sheet along the entire profile.

There is no need to sew on the last sheet. Do not forget to apply sealant to the joints of individual products. Garage doors are made by hand from the same profiled sheet. It is optimal if you make them the entire width of the front wall. In this case, all the work will be completed truly quickly (especially if you have an efficient assistant who will supply tools, fasteners and profiled products).

3

Profiled products are suitable for the construction of many other buildings. You can make a practical and beautiful gazebo made of corrugated sheets, summer shower stall. Such buildings have served dacha owners for decades. Sheds made of corrugated sheets are very popular. They protect Vacation home(its porch from precipitation) and give the residential building a more harmonious and attractive appearance. The canopies are assembled and erected in just a couple of hours. We will not even describe such a procedure. For any craftsman, doing it with your own hands does not cause the slightest difficulty.

Gazebo made of profiled sheets

But let’s talk in more detail about how to build a gazebo and shower from corrugated sheets. If you want your country house to attract attention and even arouse the envy of your neighbors, you should approach the arrangement of the site on which it is located wisely. You should definitely build a beautiful gazebo from profiled products. Such a construction will not cost you much, and at the same time you will receive perfect place for relax. Gazebos are installed on simple strip foundation. The corrugated sheets are attached to the building frame by welding. Make the roof of the gazebo either double or single pitched. If you have already built a shed from profiled products or sheathed your house with them, the process of constructing a gazebo will take you a minimum of time.

A shower made from corrugated sheets is also easy to build. The work is performed as follows:

Choose a place for the shower. It is advisable to place it on open area so that the house or trees do not cast a shadow or cover this summer construction for receiving water refreshing treatments from the sun.
You are making the foundation. The shower is a very light structure. Therefore, the foundation for it is equipped with the simplest (a shallow strip foundation is suitable).
Assemble from wooden blocks or metal profiles building frame. If you plan to use the shower for as long as possible, it is better to install steel products. Profiled sheets for the skeleton in in this case attached by welding. It will be more reliable this way. In the absence of a welder, fastening can be done with screws or metal screws.
Cover the shower with corrugated sheets on three sides.
Making a door for construction. It must be mounted on a separate steel frame, which is then attached to the main structure.

The final work is installing the tank on the roof of the shower. The water container should be lightweight, so buy plastic tank. Now you know how you can build various steel structures, the profiled sheet is ideal for arranging the territory of a summer house or private house!

I welcome all readers of this article. I want to write how to build a shed from a profile pipe with your own hands, describe in detail where, how and what is needed for this. I think it’s pointless to talk about the need for such a building. But first, a little about the types of sheds, as well as the pros and cons of this type of building.

I will not describe all types of sheds, because they are built from everything. My topic today is profile pipe sheds. You can use any, but I will describe the most common one. Depending on the type of internal flooring, sheds are found:

no gender at all;
with concrete floor;
with wood;
coated with sheet metal.

The first option is the simplest; it is suitable for storing equipment and household items: attachments from a walk-behind tractor, watering pumps with hoses. Such a shed is suitable for drying potatoes, root crops, and storing them from possible rain after digging.

Barns with concrete screed or a wooden floor laid with your own hands are used for storing equipment. Temporary storage racks are installed here harvested, any other purposes. In garage-type buildings, it is not uncommon to lay corrugated sheeting or a combination of two types of covering. Keeping animals in uninsulated metal sheds is extremely undesirable, except for birds in the summer.

Sheet metal flooring is much more expensive than all others, but more durable. The metal must be at least 4 mm thick.

According to the complexity of the sheds there are:

simple, square or rectangular;
with partitions inside;
complex design: with windows, partitions, terrace.

Possible roof shape:

classic, gable;
straight with a slope;
arched

I want to describe simple design barn for a summer residence. A walk-behind tractor will fit there, car trailer or other similar devices, as well as gardening tools. Such a barn consists of two sections, where a door is equipped to enter the utility compartment and a gate for the entry of equipment.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main convenience of the design of a shed made from a profile pipe is its compactness, although its body is divided into two compartments. One is good for storing equipment, attachments, large objects, such as building materials.

The second part has its own door and can be adapted for storage small inventory, work clothes, overalls. If necessary, it can be easily divided into individual compartments - this is the advantage of structures made from profile pipes.

The disadvantage is that the structure cannot be disassembled with your own hands. But even if you build such a barn as a change house for the duration of the main construction, then it is easy to convert it for other purposes.

How to build a shed from professional pipes with your own hands

Of the work that will be required to build a barn with your own hands, the greatest difficulty is concreting the racks, as well as the floor under the main part of the structure.

Choosing a site for construction and marking the territory

Entering the gate and approaching the doors should be convenient, away from the fence. I have provided a diagram of the shed, a kind of instruction, it can be adapted to the conditions of your site. Don't forget to write down all the distances with your own hands. According to construction standards of this type, an outbuilding is located no closer than 1 m to the neighboring plot.

The selected area for the shed is cleared of uneven areas: the holes are filled with earth, the rhizomes and stumps are uprooted. An embankment 5–8 cm from the ground level is created. If there are depressions near doors or gates, then they also need to be filled. This will get rid of dirt near the entrance.

Drawings and diagrams of the barn

I have shown one of the options for making an outbuilding with my own hands in the photo. Based on the dimensions indicated in the figure, the flow rate of the profile pipe is calculated.

Structures made from 80 × 80 mm profile pipe are indicated in green. Blue – 40 × 40 mm. Instead of a floor, they make a screed on most of the barn, adapted for a garage. On the rectangular supports of the base of the smaller part, sheets of corrugated iron sheets measuring 1500 × 1500 are fixed. You will need 4 of them, if the corrugated board is 3 × 1.5 m, then 2 sheets.

The dimensions of the support rectangle with a side of 1540 mm are indicated taking into account the profile pipe, 1480 mm - without them. A sheet of 1.5 by 1.5 or 3 m will lie freely. It can be secured with your own hands by welding or bolts.

The dimensions of doors and gates are not indicated in the diagram: the owner, at his discretion, can use ready-made ones from some old buildings, or purchase them in a store. For those who decide to assemble them with their own hands, I am posting drawings with dimensions.

The doors are made from a profile pipe 40 × 20 mm, gates - 80 × 40 mm.

Required tools and materials

To install a shed from a profile pipe with your own hands you will need:

welding machine;
tamping vibrating machine;
drill-driver and rivet gun (you can do without the latter);
Bulgarian;
level, plumb line, tape measure.

Material calculation

For the main structure, 13 pipes of 80 × 80 mm and 40 × 40 mm, each 6 m long, are required. The gate requires 10 pipes of 80 × 40 mm, 3 m each, or 5 pipes of 6 m each. For doors, 8.3 m of 40 × 20 mm pipe is enough.

The walls and roof are sheathed with corrugated sheets. For the roof you will need 26.5 m² of profile sheets 2.2 m wide and a length multiple of 1.5 m. For the walls you will need 55 m² of corrugated sheets, for the partition - 15 m².

For the floor in a small section of a welded utility block, you need 2 sheets of iron 3 × 1.5 m or 4 sheets 1.5 × 1.5 m with a thickness of at least 4 mm. If the floor is wooden, then 10 m² of boards. For screeding the floor and concreting the pillars, 1 m3 of concrete will be enough, which is approximately 2 tons of dry cement mixture, or 40 bags of 50 kg each. If you use 25-kilogram ones, then twice as much - 80 pieces. This is enough to pour 18 m² of screed and concrete 15 pillars.

Step by step construction

First, prepare the site for construction. I already wrote above about preparing the area.

Step 1

Installation of 3 m high supports in 0.5 m deep pits at a distance of 4420 mm from each other. The height of the racks is 2.5 m from ground level. Please note: the middle support is not in the middle, but is offset at a distance of 1540 mm from one and 2880 from the other. They don’t install it, but only prepare a hole a little less than 0.5 m deep.

After this, the L-shaped crossbars are welded. , mounting on bolts or special clamps. The stand is installed, adjusted in height, and welded to these crossbars. This technology will allow you not to make mistakes when calculating angles and lengths, and to do the fastening of the necessary elements yourself. The sequence is shown in the figure.

After the construction of the first structure, they begin the next one. It is located parallel, at a distance of 1480 mm. There should be 5 such structures. total length from one to the other - 6 m. On top of the crossbars they are fastened with a 6 m strip by welding. The result is a metal frame made from a profile pipe, assembled with your own hands. The racks are concreted with a weak solution with stones, not reaching the edge of the pit 5–15 cm.

Step 2

Concreting. You can watch the video in the reviews. After the racks are erected and fastened on top (for now with one) plank, all distances are checked, each rack is checked with a plumb line for perpendicularity to the ground. If all structural elements are installed correctly, then the holes from the posts and the entire area under most of the barn are finally filled with concrete, this is approximately 18 m². The formwork is pre-assembled from boards. Before pouring with your own hands, the earth is compacted and filled with water: this process accelerates shrinkage.

Step 3

After concreting, the remaining parts of the structure are attached: crossbars, lintels and profiles. You can walk on concrete the very next day after pouring, but in soft shoes, the person’s weight is no more than 100 kg. Stairs or scaffolding can be installed only after a week of exposure.

Use a screwdriver or a rivet gun to fix profile sheets - cladding of barn walls, partitions made of profile material. Doors and gates are secured to the curtains by welding.

A barn is a necessary building on a private farmstead in the city and village. You can’t do without it even at the dacha. Gradually, more and more tools, equipment, and building materials accumulate that need to be stored somewhere. A reliable shelter for all these things is a metal shed. If you know how to weld metal, it won’t be difficult for you to make it yourself. It turns out to be approximately equal in cost to wood, and much cheaper than brick.

Iron barn construction technologies

There are permanent metal sheds, and there are prefabricated ones. A solid iron barn may have a concrete floor, which is poured onto a prepared base, or it may have a wooden floor. If a plank floor is planned, the upper frame on which it will rest is made of a thick-walled profile pipe with a cross-section of 60*60 mm or 60*40 mm or a corner with a wall thickness of 4-5 mm or more. The floor joists are attached to the frame. They can also be metal, or they can be wooden.

In a small metal shed you can make a floor without joists. To do this, the binding can be made from a corner with a thickness of about 4-6 mm and a side of at least 10 cm. The shelf of the corner can be used as a support for the boards. Only the board must be at least 40 mm thick. For large spans, additional support may be required. It can be made from a profile pipe of the appropriate section.

Metal shed with wooden floor

A prefabricated/collapsible metal shed consists of separately welded wall frames that are bolted together. The sheathing is most often corrugated sheets, which can be quickly installed and removed. The roof is made of the same material. You can install such a structure at your dacha in a couple of hours, just as you can dismantle it. They are placed in unguarded dachas for the season, and then either hidden under lock and key or taken away to winter quarters.

There is another option for a prefabricated shed (they are also called a “house block”) - for those who do not want to bother with manufacturing. Industry produces ready-made kits, which are assembled as a constructor. There are options made in China, there are domestic ones. The price difference is not catastrophic 20-30%. And choose what you trust more. The assembly of one of the Russian collapsible iron sheds is shown in the video.

Read how to make a fence from corrugated sheets here, and installing a chain-link fence is described in this article.

Do-it-yourself metal shed made of corrugated sheets: photo

They were built from pipes of different sections and corrugated sheets, with pitched roof. The dimensions of the barn are 6.5 * 4 meters, the height of the front wall is 2.5 m, the back wall is 2.15 m. The floor is made of concrete: in winter there will be nothing except tools and there is no need for a warm floor.

Materials

Racks from round pipes diameter 61 mm. They were chosen because they were on the farm. Trim and intermediate posts made of rectangular-section pipe - profile (60-40 mm and 40*20 mm). The wall thickness throughout is 2 mm.

Consumption for pipes: round 32 m, profile larger section - 21 m, smaller - 156 m. MP-20 roofing sheeting took 4 sheets 3.5 m long, and 4 - 4 m each, galvanized fence C8 - 4 sheets for the walls 2.15 m each, 16 sheets of 2.5 m each. This is a list of materials for the frame. And also fasteners and consumables for concreting:

16 bags of cement;
7 tons of gravel;
waterproofing (1 roll);
self-tapping screws, rivets, electrodes for welding;
Wooden slats for sheathing: 50*25 mm - 3 pcs. 6 meters each.

The list of building materials turned out to be impressive. But the price of such a barn is still cheaper than a brick one.

Step by step construction

Start of work - marking the site. Pegs are driven in at the corners and the diagonals are checked. If they are even, the twine is stretched, and the locations for installing the racks are marked along it. In the marked places, shafts with a depth of 60 cm are made with a drill. Pipes are placed in them and filled with concrete mortar (M200).

First, we placed and poured the racks in the corners. When the concrete had set a little, fishing lines were tied to them - at the top and bottom. The others looked up to them.

The pipes are exposed and concreted

The next stage is welding the frame. A 60*40 mm pipe with a wall thickness of 2 mm is welded onto the top of the pipes. Next, mark the floor level on one of the pipes in the corners. Using a hydraulic level, we transfer it to the rest corner posts. At these marks we tie the twine and transfer it to all the posts. According to the markings, we weld a 40*20 mm pipe around the perimeter. Using the same principle, we weld the cross members in the middle: two are definitely needed. So that a walk-behind tractor or wheelbarrow can easily enter the doors, they are made wide and high - 1.2 * 2 meters. The base of the metal shed has already been assembled with your own hands.

Frame for a metal shed

Next comes the assembly of the roof guides. Three trusses 6.5 meters long were needed. They were welded on the ground, then welded to the opposite beams. Then we welded transverse sections of pipe 40*20 mm (10 pieces). The frame of the metal shed is completely ready. The next step is priming to prevent it from rusting.

Next we started making the concrete floor. First, the formwork was installed. They placed it outside the frame, retreating 10 cm. They secured the boards with pegs and propped them up with bricks so that the concrete would not move apart. Next, we prepared the base. Crushed stone and broken bricks were driven into the ground. They literally hammered it in - with a rubber mallet. A piece of brick is placed on the ground and knocked until it is almost completely hidden. This makes the base more rigid, and the uneven surface adheres to the ground better.

Installed formwork

Afterwards, beacons were placed on the thick solution - even slats (25*50 mm board), they were leveled along the fishing line: points were marked at opposite ends bottom trim and a fishing line was pulled between them. After checking its horizontality, beacon strips were placed along it.

Beacons were placed on broken bricks hammered into the ground

After the mortar on the lighthouses had set, they filled it with M-250 concrete (read about concrete grades and their composition here). They were leveled using the rule according to the exposed beacons and the pipes of the lower trim, which were placed at the same level.

This is what a concrete floor in a barn looks like after the mortar has set.

Next, the installation of the sheathing began - corrugated sheets. We started from the roof. To prevent the condensation that will form on the metal from dripping onto the head, a waterproofing film was first spread on the frame. It is laid with an overlap of one panel over another by about 10 centimeters, gluing them together with special double-sided tape (sold in the same place where the waterproofing is sold). Regular plastic film It’s better not to use it: it doesn’t last longer than a few years—maximum -3-5.

Laying the waterproofing begins from the bottom, moving upward, gluing the panels. It turns out that a drop falling from above flows down to the very bottom. The strips were cut longer than necessary and hung a little at the edges (30 cm each) - so that water would drain from them and snow would not get into small gaps during a side wind.

Next, the installation of the profiled sheet began. When laying any sheet material It is important to place the first sheet correctly on the roof. Then everything will go on easily. Therefore, we carefully measure all the protrusions with squares, rulers, etc. When the sheet is exposed, it is screwed with self-tapping screws. They are placed in a wave - in a ledge. This way there is less chance of water getting into the hole.

With the cladding of the sides, everything is approximately the same, you just have to trim the top sheets because of the slope. You set the first one exactly, then everything goes like clockwork. The new sheet is aligned with the wave and fastened. It took about 20 screws to attach one profiled sheet.

Do-it-yourself ready-made shed made of metal (corrugated sheeting)

The door frame was welded from the same 40*20 mm profile pipe, and hinges were welded on. When covering the door, it was removed and sewn up on a flat surface, hanging it ready-made.

About the device sliding gates can be read here.

The metal shed was sheathed in the corners with metal corners. It is mounted on rivets. It serves for decorative purposes, and also closes small gaps that formed during joining at the corners.

The result was a more than capacious structure - 26 square meters. It can be used to store equipment and building materials, dedicating a part to a workshop. This is if it is located on a plot near the house.

For a dacha without security, a metal shed is a risky business, unless you cover it with wood on top. Then you will have to attach the wooden sheathing to the frame (pictured below).

Barn with wood paneling on metal frame it's built like this

About construction wooden shed can be read here.

Building an iron frame barn without welding: video

Not everyone knows how to weld, but drilling holes and bolting two elements together is much easier. The video shows the entire process of assembling a decent-sized shed from a profile pipe with bolted connections. Welding is used once: the hinges are welded. You can't get by with bolts here.

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