How to make water drains from the roof. We make a roof drain with our own hands: plastic, metal

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Water - main enemy building structures. Flowing down from the roof during rain or melting snow, it moistens the walls of the building, breaks up blind areas or paths, and erodes the soil under the foundation. This can cause the house to settle unevenly and cause cracks to appear. At low temperatures, the liquid in the pores and capillaries of structures freezes, and the destruction process accelerates. To protect against aggressive moisture, install drainage system. Making a gutter with your own hands is a completely doable task for those who do not want to put up with dampness in the basement, sagging foundations and streams of rain pouring from the roof.

The main function of a roof drain is to collect water from the roof surface and drain it to a remote location. For large areas of slopes, options are provided when the drainpipe directs the flow into a storm sewer or a special tank.

Drainage structures form an organized system, in contrast to an unorganized one, where masses of water flow randomly from the surface of the slopes.

Materials for gutters

Devices for draining water from the roof appeared a long time ago. A man protected his home from rain using gutters various shapes made from wood, ceramics and even marble. Later they began to be made from lead and copper. Nowadays, roof drains are made from materials that are not subject to corrosion:

galvanized steel;
plastic;
metal with polymer coating;
cast iron;
copper;
zinc titanium;
aluminum

The strongest and most durable structures are made of metal. They are not afraid of frost, shock, sunlight. Cast iron systems are used in multi-story construction, galvanization is used in places where there are no requirements for the external attractiveness of the structure.

Drain from assessment

Metal elements with polymer coating are intended for private and public buildings, where the roof with a drainage system should look attractive and form a single, complete composition.

Copper roof drain

The most expensive roof gutters are made of copper. They are classified as premium. In combination with copper or slate tiles, the systems serve as a decoration for the building. Over time, the metal becomes covered with a noble patina, which gives the appearance of the structure even greater sophistication.

Plastic drain

Plastic products are inexpensive, lightweight and quite durable. Inferior to metal ones mechanical strength and resistance to UV radiation. Most often they are used in combination with roofing made of flexible bitumen tiles or ondulin.

Important. The drainage profile can be of any size: round, square or rectangular. There are no strict rules for selecting systems.

Types of structures

IN multi-storey buildings and structures with flat roofs arrange internal drainage. The liquid is collected in a funnel from the roof surface and enters a riser located in non-residential premises, stairwells or corridors. At the lowest point, the system is connected to the city storm sewer through a closed outlet running underground. From utility networks water flows into nearby reservoirs.

In private low-rise construction They use an external drain where the system is located outside the building. Pipes, gutters and funnels are attached to external walls. Such structures are easy to maintain and repair. From the pipes of external drains, liquid is discharged through open outlets, which are above-ground concrete gutters or grooves along the perimeter of the blind area. They are closed on top with protective grilles. Read more in the article, where we examined all the options in detail.

Materials for making a drain with your own hands

In order to make a drain with your own hands for country house or a canopy, inexpensive improvised materials are sufficient. For the manufacture of drainage systems the following is used:

galvanized steel;
sewer pipes;
plastic bottles;
tree.

It is more convenient to make a tin roof drain with your own hands using a bending machine. Sheet metal is cut taking into account the allowance for roller seams. The edges are folded back to form a connection. The parts are rolled out and the seams are made manually or with a special seaming machine. One edge of the tubes is narrowed and a riser is installed.

Making a drain from tin

From polymer pipes the drainage is easier to assemble. The links are connected in the same way sewer system. For the gutter, the solid element is dissolved into 2 identical parts. Using shaped parts, the riser can be given the desired configuration.

Drain made of plastic pipes

Drainage from plastic bottles- most a budget option. One and a half to two liter containers are connected into a pipe of the required length, having previously cut off the neck and bottom. Glued with sealant. For the gutter, trays are made from bottles, which are sequentially fastened with a stapler or wire through holes made with an awl.

Do-it-yourself draining from a plastic bottle

A wooden drain is assembled from boards, securing them at an angle of 90°. They are connected into a long gutter with an overlap to prevent water from leaking. The bottom is lined plastic film. Mount the structure on brackets, giving it a slope. The outlet pipe can be made from wood, tin corner, plastic pipes. To receive water, dig a ditch at a distance of 1.5 m from the wall and fill it with crushed stone and broken bricks.

Important. Making a gutter with your own hands is not a difficult task. You just need to carefully seal the joints, give the gutter a slope of at least 2 mm per 1 m, and treat the wood from rotting. This design will serve the owner for many years.

The metal drainage system is made from low-carbon steel sheets with a thickness of 0.5-0.7 mm. Polymer materials that are resistant to environmental influences and abrasion are used as coatings. Products are manufactured in a wide range color scheme- from white, silver, brick red to gray or black. This allows you to choose an option that harmoniously fits into the stylistic design of the building.

What does the metal drain in the photo consist of?

The metal drain consists of the following elements:

Gutter is a long tray located along the roof slope for collecting rain or melt water.
Water intake funnel- a cone-shaped part for receiving liquid from the gutter and discharging it into the drainpipe. Can break a long tray into shorter sections.
Gutter connector - a profile with rubber seals for joining the gutter with corner elements.
Rotary corners - parts for joining the gutter at points of rotation by 90°-165°. Can be rounded or rectangular.
Downpipes are vertical elements for transporting water from the funnel to the outlet. Connectors are used to join adjacent links.
Rotary elbows, tees - profiles assembled from pipe sections that change direction or connect two flows.
Clamps are fasteners for fixing drainpipes to walls.
Brackets are hooks for hanging the gutter along the slopes.
Outlets are horizontal pipes for draining water from a building and discharging it into a drainage ditch or onto the ground.
Drains are trays or pipes for draining liquid from a drain.
Gutter end caps are components that prevent water from flowing out in the wrong direction and give the gutter additional rigidity.
Grilles are perforated elements for trapping leaves or debris, as well as for the safety of movement of a person or machine.

Important. All details are calculated and selected individually in accordance with the roof parameters and climatic conditions.

Installation features

A drainage system like any engineering Communication, need to be pre-designed. Draw up a drawing with a roof plan, which indicates the direction of water flow, the location of the funnels, and the length of the gutters.

Gutter installation diagram

Sections of elements are selected according to the expected amount of precipitation and roof area. Funnels are installed at the rate of one element per 10 linear meters. length or 100 m² of slope. Sometimes they are combined in two pieces per vertical pipe. Flows are redirected using tees.

Installation of brackets

Installation of gutters begins with the installation of brackets. Long, short or universal holders are used to fix gutters. They are secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Long brackets are installed before laying the sheathing and roofing material. They are given a bend corresponding to the slope of the roof. Short hooks are used to fix the gutter to the front board or wall of the building. This option can be used both before and after installation of the roof. Sometimes the brackets are attached to the end of the fillies or rafter legs. In this case, use fasteners with bent leg. Universal brackets are collapsible. The upper part is attached before or after installation of the covering. Bottom - after laying the roofing material. The hooks do not stick out and do not interfere during operation.

Mounting options

Depending on the installation sequence, there are different methods for attaching hooks:

before laying the covering, the brackets are attached to the mauerlat, rafters or bottom board of the sheathing;
on the finished roof - the hooks are fixed on the front board without removing the bottom row of covering.

Attach the outer holders and tighten the thread

First, install the outer holders at the highest and lowest points. The installation step of the brackets is 50-60 cm. They are placed no further than 5 cm around the funnel. The hooks are screwed along a stretched cord, maintaining a slope of 2-5 mm per 1 m of gutter length. The edge of the roof should not overlap the gutter by more than 1/3 of the width.

Fastening brackets depending on overhangs

Inclined systems require fasteners that are mounted at an angle. For this purpose, hooks with an adjusting device are used, which allows you to change the position relative to the base.

If the roof overhang is sufficient, the option of installing an entire fastening system is possible. It consists of a guide metal profile and holders that are inserted into it after installation. You can give the structure any angle of inclination.

When the snow melts, the drain fastening does not interfere

Sometimes hooks are hung directly from the roofing material. In this case, it must be rigid and strong to support the weight of the gutter section with water. Clamps with gaskets are used as fasteners. There are other types of brackets - extending or installed inside the drainage tray.

Laying the gutter

Installation of the gutter begins with marking the hole for the funnel. Use scissors or a hacksaw to make a slot with a diameter equal to the cross-section of the drainage part. Adjust and roll its edges with pliers to create droplet-shaped bevels.

Gutter installation

Install the gutter on the brackets. The trays are joined along their length using connectors or latches. Rotating elements are mounted at the intersections and corners of the slopes. The joints are glued with sealant or sealed with rubber. Additionally secured with rivets.

After installation is complete, a special mesh can be placed on the open gutter to protect the system from falling leaves and debris.

Protective mesh for leaf gutter

Funnel fastening

Funnels are installed at the lowest point of the drain no further than 150 mm from the blind end. The holes of the tray and the water collector must match. The part is placed on the gutter from below and the ears are snapped into place.

Installation of funnels on drains

A plug is mounted on the end of the tray and secured with a rivet.

Installation of drainpipes

A rotating elbow and a piece of pipe 100 mm long are connected to the drainage pipe. A second curved element is attached to it to create a convenient configuration for fixing to the wall. The upper clamp is attached to the wall at a distance of no more than 150 mm from the edge of the knee. Mount a piece of drainpipe of the required size, inserting it into the rotating element.

Installation of a drainpipe

The length of the pipe is secured with clamps in increments of 1.8 meters. The drain seam is turned towards the wall. It is fixed at the bottom with a clamp and the ebb is installed. Its edge should be at a height of 200-250 mm from the blind area.

When installing a metal drain, you need to follow some rules:

cut elements with metal scissors or a hacksaw with fine teeth;
remove protective films before installation;
Place the end caps on the smooth part of the gutter;
use profiles and fasteners recommended by the manufacturer;
set the number of funnels corresponding to the calculation;
maintain the distance between the brackets and clamps;
leave a gap of 50-100 mm between the pipe and the facade;
The junctions of the gutters should be reinforced with brackets; the distance from the joint to the fasteners should not exceed 150 mm on both sides.

Installing gutters yourself will help save the budget allocated for building a house. With proper selection of elements and installation, the system will last at least 10 years.

A system for collecting rainwater from the roof slopes and discharging it into a storm drain, or at least away from the foundation of the house, is mandatory, so it must be included in the future construction project being developed. Most often, the installation of gutters is carried out at the stage of creating sheathing for further roofing. However, there are roof designs that require fastening drainage systems after roofing works. In addition, other situations occur, for example, the need to replace dilapidated gutters and pipes with appropriate fasteners.

How to install gutters if the roof is already covered

So, we solve the problem - how to install gutters if the roof is already covered. And the solution is made easier by the fact that manufacturers of drainage systems, having provided different cases, at which it is necessary to mount general design, they are made in different versions. They will be discussed below.

Varieties of modern drainage systems by material of manufacture

Not so long ago, the most popular and, perhaps, the only available material For the manufacture of drainage systems, galvanized steel was used, from which they are still produced today. But they are gradually being replaced metal structures, having a polymer coating, or made entirely of plastics. Such systems have a more respectable appearance and a long service life, significantly exceeding the durability of conventional galvanized options. Thanks to these qualities, “new generation” gutters quickly became in great demand among buyers.

Since consumers quite often have a question about which option is better - regular galvanized, metal, polymer-coated, or completely plastic, it’s worth a few words about their comparative characteristics. It should immediately be noted that everyone from materials from which Gutters are produced, there are advantages and disadvantages.

A plastic drainage system can be called the most optimal option, since the material used for its manufacture is not afraid of temperature changes and is resistant to winter frosts And summer heat. In addition, plastic is not subject to corrosive processes, is inert to ultraviolet radiation and other external negative influences.

Plastic brackets for gutters have a wide mounting surface, so they fit tightly to the wind board and are held securely on it. However, plastic cannot be bent into the desired configuration like metal brackets. Therefore, all design details must be precisely adjusted to the specific width of the frontal board and overhang.

The cost of a plastic drainage system exceeds the prices of structures made of other materials - this can be called their most significant disadvantage.

with a polymer coating are somewhat cheaper than plastic and have long enough service life. The systems withstand external natural influences well and look very elegant in appearance, practically not inferior in this parameter to polymer ones.

However, steel parts with polymer protective coating not particularly resistant to mechanical scratching. Well, damage to the polymer coating leads to the occurrence of corrosion processes, which means the duration of the structure’s functioning is reduced. It is quite easy to damage the coating even during installation work. Greater care is required when assembling and working with fasteners.

Gutters made of galvanized steel sheet are among the most inexpensive options. Their appearance is not aesthetic enough. They can serve for quite a long time, but with deep scratches, corrosion can also quickly damage the howl bad deed.

The advantage of metal systems is that some of their parts can be much more easily adjusted to certain configurations, for example, by slightly bending the brackets in the right places, which cannot be done with plastic.

You can briefly recall the less popular materials, from which gutters are made for buildings with a certain design solution- it can be copper and an alloy of titanium and zinc. The reliability, durability and appearance of such systems are beyond praise, but the price is clearly high. If such systems are chosen, then you can also select brackets for them that can be attached to the eaves of an already roofed roof.

In principle, supporting brackets of different designs can be selected for drainage systems made of any material, since they are sold not only complete with the main parts, but also separately. The main thing is that the holders match the shape and size of the gutter.

Find out how to produce by studying the instructions in a special article on our portal.

When do you have to install gutters after covering the roof?

Now we need to somewhat clarify the moments when circumstances may force us to install a drainage system after the roofing material has been laid on the roof slopes. So, there are several reasons for this installation:

This process itself, in exactly this sequence, is provided for by the construction project. For example, if the ventilation of the roofing system will be carried out through the perforated parts of the soffits installed under the roof overhang. Many experts consider this method of ventilation to be more effective, which is why they plan to attach the drainage gutter to the frontal (wind) board.
Forced fastening of gutters along the eaves of a covered roof occurs if the house was purchased in unfinished form, and the former owner did not foresee their installation in advance.
Very widespread reason when old system drainage system is completely outdated and has exhausted its service life - the gutters began to leak, and the metal holders rusted and did not perform their function properly.

Prices for gutters

gutters

If the rafter system was used for, which, according to technology, should go out onto the eaves overhang. Therefore, in this option, there is no possibility of attaching the brackets for laying the gutters to the sheathing and they need to be attached to the wind board.

How drainage systems are installed along eaves overhangs

Types of brackets for attaching gutters

Brackets can be made of metal or plastic and vary in design. Choice the desired model will depend on the location and method of fixing the drainage system.

Brackets can be long, short and universal:

Long hooks are most often used to secure under the roofing before it is laid on. These elements are fixed to the rafters, usually even before installing the open or continuous sheathing.
Short brackets can be used to install a drainage system on a front board or on the wall of a building. This type of hooks is installed as before laying the roofing on rafter system, and after the roof is equipped. In addition to the front board or wall, sometimes this type of bracket is attached to the end surface of rafter legs or fillies. However, in this case, the reliability of the installation will be significantly lower, since the fastening screws or nails will enter the wood parallel to the grain.
The universal version of the brackets is a collapsible design that can be used for installing drainage systems both before laying the roofing material and after this process. The ability to adjust the length allows you to use them both long and short.

Methods for securing gutters

First you need to understand the options for installing drainage systems, when laying roofing. This will make it possible to decide which of them is applicable in each specific case.

So, there are four ways to secure brackets to elements of the rafter system:

On the rafter legs, both on the end and on their upper or side sides.
On the wind (frontal) board.
Under the roof, on the bottom board of the sheathing or on plywood (opc) of continuous sheathing.
On the edge of the roof covering.

The first method is to the rafters or sheathing

If the brackets are fixed before installing the roofing material, then they are most often fixed on the rafters or on the bottom board of the sheathing. In this case, supporting hooks with long legs that if necessary correct location gutters can be bent or left straight. In addition to them, universal brackets are sometimes used for the installation of drainage systems in this case.

Attaching hooks to sheathing boards (sheets)

If the roof covering has already been laid, for example if the old gutter system needs to be replaced, and the brackets are planned to be fixed in a similar way, then the bottom layer of roofing material will have to be removed. True, this is not always easy.

To do this, it will be necessary to unscrew the fasteners not only of the first, but also of the second row of coverage. Rigid roofing material must be removed carefully. This is especially important if the coating is not new, but has been in use for several years, otherwise the sheets can be easily damaged, which will lead to unnecessary costs. And not every material can be dismantled without breaking its integrity or without deformation, especially if it is secured with nails. So, problems are very likely, for example, with ordinary slate or ondulin.

In a situation where the roof is laid on a plywood base, you can try to carefully lift only the lower edge of the roofing material running along the eaves. Then, align the brackets to continuous sheathing and secure with self-tapping screws, screwing them into the rafters through the plywood covering. Next step bitumen shingles or the roofing material returns to its original position and is fixed to the surface using bitumen mastic.

Video: Installation of a drainage system with edge dismantling of tile roofing

In order not to dismantle the roofing, you can try using another option for installing brackets on the rafters. It consists of attaching hooks to the side of the timber. For this purpose, brackets with a bent mounting platform turned horizontally are purchased or manufactured - an example is shown in the figure above.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

It should be remembered that such installation is only possible if the rafter legs have a sufficiently large cross-sectional size, for example, 120×50 or 150×50 mm. In addition, it is necessary to take into account that the hooks must be secured so that the roof covering hangs over the gutter, covering ½ or ⅓ of its width, otherwise an overflow of water may occur during heavy rain.

Therefore, if you choose the option of fixing the brackets on the side of the rafters, you first need to do a fitting, which will show whether this method of installation is possible.

The second method is to attach the brackets to the front board

The easiest way to install the brackets is on the wind (frontal) board, and this can be done using various fasteners.

The front board is fixed on the end sides of the rafter legs, and in various designs may be wide or narrow. The choice of bracket type will depend on this parameter.

The following are suitable for installing a drainage system on a frontal board:

Long brackets, if the frontal board has big enough width. Such holders are made of metal and have a leg the same width as the hook. On the leg there is also a mounting platform with holes through which the brackets are attached to the front board.

Short brackets are designed for fastening them to the frontal board, the wall of the building, as well as to the end side of the rafters. As already mentioned, the latter option is undesirable; the reliability of the fixation will be questionable due to the location of the fasteners parallel to the wood fibers.

Plastic short hooks most often have a wide base in the mounting area, so they will firmly hold the gutters.

In addition to conventional brackets, you can find adjustable versions on sale. Their convenience lies in the fact that they have a special device that allows you to set the slope of the hook relative to the base to which they are attached. Sometimes this function cannot be avoided, for example, when installing a drainage system on an inclined wind board or on the crown of a log house.

Prices for brackets

bracket

Another option for attaching gutters to the front board using short hooks is a whole system consisting of a metal guide profile and special holder brackets. First, a guide is fixed to the wind board, which is immediately given the required slope. Then brackets are put on the side of the profile and moved along the guide, spaced at the required distance. There is no need to fix such brackets, since they are tightly installed in the profile - this is one of the advantages of this fastening system. In addition, when installing it, you will not have to measure the location of each hook according to its height - you will only need to align the profile with the required slope in level and securely fix it through the holes specially provided in it.

However, such a system can be installed if the roof overhang has a suitable width.

When installing individual brackets, first a horizontal line is marked on the wind board with a slope of three to five millimeters for each linear meter gutter towards the drain funnel. Then you need to retreat from the end edge of the front board from 50 to 100 mm - this will be the installation location for the first bracket.

Next, the entire line is marked so that there is a distance of no more than 600 mm between the hooks (systems from some manufacturers allow a larger step - this is specified in the installation instructions). In the area where the drain funnel is installed, the holders are fixed at a distance of no more than 50 mm from it.

After making such markings, you can proceed to attaching the brackets to the front board.

The third method is to attach the brackets directly to the edge of the roofing.

This method is applicable for installing a drainage system along the eaves of a roof covered with almost any toughroofing material. Fastening of hook holders is carried out using special clamps (clamps), which secure the brackets along the edge of the roof.

Exist different types clamps, to secure some of them it will be necessary to carefully drill through holes in the roofing material, stepping back at least 50 mm from its edge. Others have a design that does not require drilling into the roof, as they are clamped along its edge. This option is fixed with a screw, which, similar to a clamp, clamps the edge of the roof.

If the brackets will be fixed to the wave covering, then this must be done exactly at the lower or upper point of the wave. It is recommended to place rubber pads under the metal fastening legs of the clamp on both the top and bottom sides of the roofing material, so the load on it will be slightly lower and the compression will be softer.

For similar method Both metal and plastic brackets are suitable for gutter installation. Ordinary long metal hooks can be remade yourself by bending them as needed, drilling holes in them and cutting threads. Plastic ones must be purchased ready-made.

Since in this option the entire load from the drainage system will fall on the edge of the roofing, it is necessary, if possible, to choose a kit that is light in weight.

The fourth method is with an additional long bracket

In this option, an additional metal L-shaped bracket is used to attach short holders for gutters. Its long part is fixed on the side of the rafter leg, and on the short curved shelf there is a mounting platform for fixing a short plastic holder.

This fastening method sometimes becomes the only way to fix the brackets with a previously laid roofing without damaging its surface. For example, if the roofing material on the overhang protrudes 120÷150 mm beyond the line of the ends of the rafters, and there is no desire to fix the brackets to the edge of the roof or the coating does not provide such an opportunity.

There are other ways to install a drainage system with a previously covered roof:

So, if it is necessary to arrange a drainage system that already has covered slopes, the brackets can be fixed directly to the wall surface, carefully taking measurements and markings.
Hooks are sometimes attached to a securely installed soffit if it is the appropriate width. In this case, the hook brackets are fixed to metal L-shaped profiles screwed to the surface of the soffit, similar to the picture shown above.
If there is no frontal board, or the soffit is too narrow, then the option of driving special metal pins into the wall is chosen; they can be straight or L-shaped. The end of the pin driven into the wall must have a sharp end. If the wall is concrete or brick, then first a hole of the appropriate diameter is drilled in it, into which a pin is embedded. To do this, the hole is filled with concrete mortar, after which a pin is driven into it. In this case, before proceeding with the installation of gutters, you must wait until the solution has completely hardened.

If you plan to lay the gutter on pins driven into the wall, then their installation must also be marked so that the required slope towards the drainpipe funnel is ensured.

Pull-up pendant mount not so popular compared to the options described above, but sometimes you can’t do without such a design. This bracket has special bends, one of which picks up the front side of the gutter, and the second is put on the rear edge of its wall. In addition, on the holder there is a sleeve with an internal thread, through it, as well as top part gutter walls, a fastening element is screwed into the wall or front board.

This type of fastening can be used to fix the drain both on the front board and on the ends of the rafter legs.

If such fastenings are chosen, then the gutter must be covered on top with a protective mesh, which will prevent large debris from entering it. Otherwise, fallen leaves may linger on the bridges, collecting dust and dirt that flows down with water with roof, and over time a plug forms in the gutter. To prevent water from overflowing due to accumulated dirt, a protective mesh is needed.

By the way, you can note that such an element of the system will not be superfluous in any drain.

Parameters of gutters and the angle of their installation

Having chosen the type of brackets and the method of securing the gutter system, before going to the store to buy it, you need to decide on the size of the gutter. It must correspond to the slope and parameters of the roof slope, otherwise water will overflow over its edge during heavy rain.

In addition, you need to decide on the cross-section of the pipes into which storm drains from the gutter will flow, since if you purchase a pipe it is not enough large diameter, it may not be able to cope with the flows, and the water will go over the edge of the gutters - onto the walls and under the foundation.

To determine the diameter, you need to decide in advance how many drainage pipes will be installed on one roof slope. There are certain standards in this regard. So, if the length of the eaves of the slope is up to 12 meters, then it will be enough to install one funnel with a vertical drain pipe. For longer cornices, from 12 to 24 meters, you will have to install two pipes - at the corners of the building.

So, in order to determine the size of the elements of the drainage system, it is necessary to determine the catchment area. To do this, you need to measure the distance from the corner of the eaves to the middle of the gable side of the house - this parameter is indicated in the above diagram by the letter Y, as well as the length of the eaves line - X, and then find their product, which will determine the drainage area of one roof slope.

As you can see in the drawing, a gutter up to 12 meters in size has a slope in one direction, at the bottom of which the drainpipe is mounted.

If the length of the slope is more than 12 meters, then it is necessary to find the middle of the cornice and two gutters from it, sloping towards the corners of the building, where the gutters are installed.

Gutter slope gutters should be 3÷5 mm for each linear meter of gutter length.

Now it’s worth figuring out what sizes of gutter and drain pipe you need to choose, taking into account the calculated catchment area.

S (area) of the catchment area, m²	Gutter section, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter slope in one direction, that is, with the installation of one funnel, mm.	Section of a drainpipe with a gutter sloped in two directions, that is, with the installation of two funnels, mm.
60÷100	115	87	-
80÷130	125	110	-
120÷200	150	-	87
160÷220	150	-	110

If the catchment area is known, then to determine the dimensions of the elements of the drainage system, you can use the following table, which indicates the necessary basic parameters and provides other options for the location of the drainage system with one drain pipe.

Dimensions of the main elements of the drainage system
Gutter -75 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -100 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 110 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 90 mm	Gutter -125 mm, drain pipe 63 mm	Gutter -150 mm, drain pipe 110 mm
The size of the catchment area, m²
95	148	240	205	165	370
48	74	120	100	82	180
42	50	95	80	65	145

Gutter prices

gutter

Other elements of the drainage system

Now, having understood the principles and methods of installing a drainage system, and how to correctly calculate the dimensions of the gutter and pipe, it is worth considering the functions of the remaining structural elements.

So, in addition to drainpipes, gutters and brackets for them, the drainage system consists of the following parts, each of which plays its own important role in the design:

A plastic retainer with a rubber or polymer gasket used to seal the joints of individual gutters. Typically, these parts will be necessary in two-pipe drainage systems or if the pipe is planned to be placed in the middle of the length of the wall, and the gutters are installed at an angle to it on both sides.
The corner element is used in systems where the pipe is not located at the corner of the building, but on its front side, that is, the gutter turns around the corner of the house.
A plug is a semicircular or square cover, depending on the shape of the gutter, installed on both sides of the gutter.
A drain or outlet funnel is connected to the drain gutter on one or both sides, depending on the chosen installation scheme. The lower part of the funnel is hermetically connected to the vertical drain pipe.
An elbow is a part designed to create bends in a drainpipe. If the wall is flat, then an elbow can be installed to move the pipe away from its surface and at the bottom to drain water away from the base of the house. If the gutter and drainpipe are located along the edge of the overhang, which has big enough width, due to which it is located far from the wall, and Bottom part the pipe fits vertically into the pipe, then the elbows may not be used at all.
Brackets for fixing the drainpipe to the wall. These elements are made in the form of steel clamps in which the pipe is fixed.
Fasteners - these can be self-tapping screws or dowel-nails. They are selected depending on the material of the surface on which the gutter and drainpipe holders will be attached.

Holder brackets for gutters are installed at a distance of 500÷800 mm from each other. Therefore, you need to measure the length of the cornice and select the optimal installation step.
Clamp brackets for holding drainpipes are fixed on or into the wall with a pitch of 1200÷1500 mm.
The number of drain funnels is calculated taking into account the selected scheme. There can be two or one of them installed on each slope.
Self-tapping screws are consumable parts, and they need to be purchased with a reserve, taking into account the fact that at least two pieces must be planned for each bracket. A good owner will always find a use for the surplus.

For each of the joints individual parts gutters need to be provided with special rubber connectors and roofing sealant. It is also used to seal end caps.

Installation of a drainage system

Tools required for work

A few words need to be said about the tools that will be required to install the drain. It is necessary to correctly understand that the set of tools may vary depending on what material the drainage structure is made of - metal or plastic. So, for work you will need:

Hacksaw for metal or wood. The latter, in principle, is also suitable for cutting plastic, but the edge will not be very neat and will have to be cleaned.
Shears for cutting sheet metal.
Hammer and (or) - for fastening structural parts
Hammer for drilling holes in brick or concrete wall for installing clamp brackets for the drainpipe (if this installation method is chosen).
Pliers will be necessary for metal structures.
A rubber hammer (mallet) will be required when installing the plugs.
Construction level, metal corner, tape measure and pencil, long cord - for marking operations.
A reliable stepladder or scaffolding – for ease of work and ensuring its safety.

Prices for a hacksaw for metal

hacksaw for metal

In this same section, you should immediately clarify why it is recommended to cut elements of drainage systems using a hacksaw or metal scissors, and in no case with a grinder (grinder). The durability of drainage systems, both metal and plastic, directly depends on this circumstance.

When making a cut with a grinder, the metal or plastic becomes very hot. This leads to burnout of the anti-corrosion layer in the cut area of the metal and melting of the plastic, which reduces the resistance of the material to external influences. For example, a polymer protective layer applied to a metal pipe or gutter may begin to peel off at a distance of even up to 50 mm around the cut, which will make the metal practically defenseless against moisture.

That is why it is best to listen to the recommendations of the masters and cut the parts drains only with those tools that are indicated above.

We believe that everything necessary for installing a drainage system has already been prepared. You can proceed to consideration of installation work.

Sequence of installation work - step by step

So, if the roofing pie is already installed, the most widespread An option for fixing the drain is to fix short holders on the wind board. Moreover, it should be noted that many roofers consider the short version of hooks to be more reliable than long brackets. In addition, they have several other advantages:

There is no need to bend the short holders, as they are already ready for installation.
If it is necessary to repair the gutter, this type of bracket is easier to remove, since you do not have to resort to dismantling part of the roofing. Therefore, you can do the work yourself without calling in the experts.
The cost of short holders is slightly lower than the price of long brackets.

Any installation work, including the installation of a drainage system, begins with marking the surface where the brackets for the gutters should be fixed. To make it easier, it is recommended to first draw up a drainage plan. In this case, we will consider a system with one funnel and a drainpipe.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	Marking begins by determining the installation point of the first bracket, which will be fixed at the top of the slope. It should be located at a distance of 50÷100 mm from the edge of the wind board. Next, a nail is driven into this point so that a cord can be tied to it. After this, using a tape measure, you need to measure the distance from the top edge of the front board to the driven nail. The same distance is determined and marked on the other side of the wind board, where the drainpipe is planned to be installed. Using a cord, you need to beat off a perfectly horizontal line along the entire front board. To make the task easier, you can take tinted paint cord. A cord tied to a nail is stretched along the length of the wind board to a mark made on the opposite side.
	Next, focusing on the drawn horizontal line, you need to mark off the slope line using the same colored cord. In order to determine the specific value of the slope, which should be 4÷5 mm per linear meter of the cornice, you need to determine its exact length of the slope. For example, it is seven meters. This means that at the end of the frontal board the inclined line will drop from the horizontal by 28÷35 mm. At the end point of the line, the found value is measured from the horizontal, the second end of the cord is pressed against it, and an inclined line is drawn. The marking can be done a little differently. Having found the desired point, the bracket is immediately fixed in it, and the cord is already tied to it. The remaining actions are carried out in the same way as in the first markup option. The next step is to mark the location of the brackets on a flat horizontal line, and from it a projection is made onto an inclined line. The installation step of the holders is chosen arbitrarily, but it should not exceed 600 mm (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer).
	The next step is to fix two brackets at the two extreme points of the marking, between which a cord is pulled, which will help secure the intermediate holders exactly along the intended line. Thus, the crosshairs of the projection from a horizontal line to an inclined one, as well as the stretched cord, will indicate the exact point of attachment for fixing the hooks.
	Next, the intermediate brackets are fixed. For each of them you need to prepare two or three self-tapping screws. Their number may be greater - it is recommended to use all the holes provided by the manufacturer to secure the bracket. The intermediate brackets are installed and screwed so that they come into contact with the cord in the same parts as the outer holders.
	After the holders are screwed to the wind board, the cord must be removed and once again checked that the hooks are installed correctly. The edge of the roof should hang over the gutter by ⅓ of its width - this way the water will fall directly into the gutter without overflowing its edge.
	Next, you need to check the distance between the roofing and the edge of the bracket. To do this, you can put a batten on the roof and lower it from the overhang to the edge of the hook, the distance between them should be 30÷40 mm. This parameter is important because if the edge of the bracket is lowered, water flowing from the roof will overflow over its edge, and if it is raised higher, then in the spring, snow sliding off the covering will form a plug in the gutter groove. In this case it is convenient metal version bracket, since if necessary, it can be slightly bent or, conversely, raised.
	The next step, according to a pre-drawn diagram, is to mark the hole on the gutter for installing the funnel and drainpipe. The hole size must match the diameter of the drain pipe. Then, along the marked lines, using a hacksaw for metal, two cuts are made at a certain angle, so that they converge at one point, as shown in the illustration.
	Next, the holes need to be adjusted - rolled to the diameter of the pipe. This operation is performed using pliers.
	The edges of the hole are slightly curved outward - this will create a better seal when installed in the pipe hole. You need to work with pliers very carefully, trying to damage the protective and decorative coating of the metal as little as possible.
	The next operation is to attach a funnel to the hole in the gutter and hook it with the folded edge. The other edge of the funnel has “ears” that need to be bent inside the gutter. This is done in such a way that when installing the gutter into the brackets, the bend is located on the side of the wall and is bent away from it. This way, you will get the most reliable connection between two parts - the gutter and the funnel. Here it is necessary to clarify that in some drainage systems, a special latch is provided on the funnels, with which it is fixed to the gutter. This modification of this element makes installation simpler, but the cost of systems with latches is also higher.
	The next step is cutting the seals for the side plug of the gutter with a fixed funnel. The seal can be made of rubber or polymers; in any case, it must be sufficiently plastic, bend easily and take the shape of a semicircle of the plug. Seals can come complete with the drainage system or they can be purchased separately in the same stores that sell gutters.
	Next, the seal must be placed in the grooves along the edge of the plug that will be adjacent to the gutter. When laying it, you need to make sure that there are no gaps between the rubber and metal. First, one plug is prepared, since in the case under consideration the second side of this gutter will be joined to another segment going around the corner.
	The plug is then installed on the end of the gutter. Since the joint must be completely sealed, the plug with a seal installed in it can be quite difficult to put on the metal edge. In this case, a mallet will come to the rescue; you need to gently tap the plug with it. outside, along the bottom contour. Then it will fit tightly into place.
	Instead of rubber sealant, you can use roofing sealant, which is applied to the edge of the gutter before installing the cap. Then, another layer must be applied after combining them with inside gutters, at the junction of these two elements.
	It must be said that for greater reliability, some craftsmen use both components for sealing, that is, they first install the seal, and then additionally apply a layer of roofing sealant from the inside of the gutter. While the sealant has not lost its plasticity, it is leveled with a finger dipped in a soap solution. Such a seal will not be visible from the outside and will not spoil the appearance of the drain.
	The next step is to install the gutters into the brackets attached to the wind board. Due to the fact that each section of the gutter has a standard length of 3000 mm, you need to calculate in advance how many such elements will be required for the entire cornice. To avoid cutting the gutter with the funnel and cap installed, it should be installed first. Having installed the gutter in the brackets, you need to gently press it so that the outer bend of the holder goes under the folded edge of the gutter. There are different options for gutters in shape, but they are installed in brackets and snapped into place almost identically.
	At the junction of two sections of gutters when they are installed in brackets, a clamp is installed under the joint, which has a rubber gasket and a special lock that snaps onto the outer edge of the gutter. Each subsequent gutter, when installed from the side of the funnel, is inserted inside the previously installed one - this will ensure free flow of water.
	The latch is wound on back wall joint and put on top of its edge. From the outer edge of the gutter it is snapped into place with a special clamp. To increase reliability, the inside of the gutter joint is covered with the same roofing sealant. The sealant is applied in a thin layer and then smoothed with your finger, as it should not create obstacles to the flow of water.
	This illustration shows two ways to join two sections of gutters or a corner element of the system, if provided for by the design. The first of them is described above - this is the latch. And the second is the rivets that secure the clamp to the back and front walls of the gutters. However, to install them, you will have to prepare a special tool. If a riveter is on the list of household tools, it will significantly speed up and simplify any installation work involving thin metal. The last section of the gutter is most often shorter than the rest and is much easier to install, but before installing it, a plug is also installed on its outer end - in the same way as shown above.
	You can strengthen the fastening of the gutter using a metal strip, which is attached with a self-tapping screw with a wide head or a rivet to the front edge of the gutter, on its inner side. The second edge of the strip is fixed on the roofing or on the wind board. In the second case, the strip will have to be bent a little. Metal strips can be cut from the remains of a gutter or pipe. Such strengthening of the system will help it withstand high snow loads and spring ice. In addition to such braces, additionally, between the brackets for holding the gutters, hooks are screwed onto the wind board, hooked only to the rear edge. These elements will remove part of the load not only from the support brackets, but also from the braces.
	Now you can proceed to installing the vertical part of the drain. The first step is to install an elbow into the funnel installed on the gutter, which will determine the location of the vertical pipe relative to the wall. Usually you have to mount this element in order to bring the pipe closer to the wall for easier fixing. So, the pipe should be located at a distance of 60÷70 mm from the wall, since a standard clamp holder is designed for approximately this parameter.
	The elbow is placed on the end of the funnel, and then the distance between it and the second elbow is measured, which determines the vertical direction of the drainpipe. This is done in order to prepare a piece of pipe that will connect the two elbows. To the resulting value you need to add 35÷40 mm on each side, which are necessary for joining the elements.
	Next, the segment is put on top of the elbow installed on the funnel, and the second elbow of the structure is put on its other side. If you install the parts in this order, you can avoid leakage of the system at the junctions of these elements. The principle is simple - any part located above must fit inside the lower one.
	The next step is to determine the length of the vertical pipe, taking into account the fact that another elbow will be attached to its lower end, which will set the direction of the water flow passing through the drain. However, it is also necessary to take into account that 80 mm of the resulting size will be used to join the flat section of the drain with the knees. Another point that needs to be taken into account is that the standard length of the pipe, as well as the gutter, is 3000 mm, and the wall quite often exceeds this parameter. In this case, the pipe has to be assembled from two, and sometimes from three sections.
	Now you need to mark and install brackets for the vertical pipe into the wall or secure it to it. They are installed in increments of 1200÷1800 mm, however, if vertical pipe consists of several sections, their joints also need to be strengthened with clamps.
	However, the clamps are not mounted on the joint itself, but 100 mm below it. The vertical pipe is installed to the wall only after clamps have been secured to it, so that after connecting the individual sections, the drainage can be immediately fixed in the brackets.
	When assembling the pipe, its upper edge is put on the lower end of the elbow installed in the upper part. Then, the bottom edge of the upper section of pipe is inserted into the next section. In order for one section of the pipe to easily fit into another, it is recommended to narrow it slightly through bends, which can be made using pliers. You need to work carefully, trying not to damage the coating. Naturally, this manipulation can only be performed if the drainage system is made of metal. The plastic will immediately crack if you try to bend it in this way.
	To complete the installation of the pipe, the lower elbow is put on its lower edge and fixed with a bracket. This element is usually located at a height of 150÷300 mm from the blind area. If a drainage system or storm sewer is planned to be installed under the drainage pipe or has already been installed, then the distance between it and the blind area can be reduced to 100 mm. And often the pipe completely enters the storm drain.

So, methods for installing drainage systems after covering the roof were considered. Knowledge of the nuances of calculation and information about what fasteners are used for such structures, you can choose the best option. Such that in maximum degree will suit the specifics of the roof structure, will suit the craftsman in terms of complexity of execution and financial capabilities.

In hardware stores you can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a drain with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different types coverings. It will not cost much, but will serve as reliably as one made in production.

The selected material must be strong, durable and resistant to impact. external environment– precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays.

To one degree or another, these requirements are met by:

Galvanized sheet steel is a budget option, actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is that it is not very strong; the structure can be damaged with a crowbar when cleaning ice.
Metal with polymer coating. They are excellent for buildings whose roofs are covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Resistant to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with protective film made of polymer is a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when water passes through the gutters.
Painted sheet steel. Such structures will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not too much good choice for houses, covered soft roof– abrasive particles falling into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and is not destroyed by abrasive particles or acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but are very expensive.

Main elements of the drainage system

A drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters gutters located around the perimeter of the building.
Drainpipes. From the gutters, wastewater is carried down through pipes.
Funnels. Connect gutters and pipes together.
Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
Adapters and couplings. Parts that connect straight sections of a structure together.
Tees, elbows, elbows. Used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
Brackets and holders. They are used to secure gutters.
Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

Diameter of gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of the roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, and the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings ( country houses, garages) – d gutters 7-11.5 cm, d pipes – 5-7 cm; for a cottage or house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
Quantity of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). You need to determine the number of funnels and pipes yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Gutters made of galvanized steel are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences; the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a drain with your own hands you will need:

sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
hammer;
pliers;
metal scissors;
marker for marking.

When performing work, you need to take into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Instructions for making a pipe:

A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indentation of 1 cm.
Using scissors, cut out the part.
The area with an indentation of 1 cm is bent at an angle of 90° using pliers, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
The workpiece is rolled into the shape of a pipe, with both curved edges fitting into one another.
Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly pressed down to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

Gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if you don’t have it, you can try to do it yourself.

A blank is cut out of a metal sheet, a pipe or tree trunk of the required diameter is placed on it, and the blank is given the required shape using a mallet.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, but during manufacturing the edges should be flared not inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, begin assembling the drainage system.

Installation can be carried out in various ways; the choice of method depends on the fastenings and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install the drainage system before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful method is installation on a rafter or external crossbar of a pitched roof. This allows you to protect suspended mounting structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, attach the brackets that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, and the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends approximately one-third of the semicircle, the remaining two-thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on wooden plank cornice at the desired slope using this method:

Mount the highest positioned holder.
Install the bracket located at the lowest point (the slope is increased by 5 mm every meter). If you do not maintain the recommended tilt angle, water drainage will be difficult and leaks may occur.
The two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, and a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
The remaining supporting elements are installed at the required distance, placing them along the marked line.

After this, the gutter is installed; a plug is placed on the edge located highest. At the junction with the pipe gutter, a hole is cut out for a funnel, and the latter is installed.

After this work, the installation of waste pipes begins. To secure them along the wall, clamps are used.

If there is a storm drain on the site, the pipe is directed to it. In its absence, in case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground level.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with water collection, but will protect gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always included, and when self-production drainage system is easy to do with your own hands.

This will require metal grid in rolls. Having cut strips whose width is slightly larger than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed to the elements of the discharge system using ordinary plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and self-made drainage systems must be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. As they accumulate, they can impede the flow of water or form blockages in pipes. This can cause water to enter the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make roof gutters with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on manufacturing and installing the manufactured system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully follow the work technology, and when drawing up an installation diagram, take accurate measurements. A design made in accordance with all the rules will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. Are they from different materials more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, appearance- you can’t find fault, in terms of durability - it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements, and then assemble the drain with your own hands, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble one will do, but long length- at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is considered simple: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Total length We divide the walls by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If it is not possible to lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, hand hacksaw a hole is cut out. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They are there different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into drainage system(if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

To solve a problem damp walls and a damp foundation is possible if you install roof gutters with your own hands.

Why is it needed?

In the absence of a properly organized drain, precipitation from the roof flows onto the ground near the house, which leads to the destruction of the tiles around the house and the facade of the building to become wet. Such problems can be avoided by installing a well-organized drainage system. Correctly calculated and competent installed drain preserves the integrity of the foundation and walls of the building, significantly extends the life of other structural elements.

A high-quality drainage system combines the following qualities:

reliability;
durability;
attractive appearance.

Having studied in detail all the pros and cons of using all types of drainage, everyone will make the right decision for themselves.

Gutter made of galvanized steel. Among the advantages, it is worth noting the low cost. The disadvantage is the fragility of the material. This type of watercourse is very easy to damage, for example when cleaning ice with a crowbar.
Gutters made of polymeric materials are modern systems that are resistant to negative external factors and perfectly complement roofs covered with metal tiles, creating a single ensemble. Harmonious ensemble. Among the disadvantages, it is worth noting the high noise level when a large volume of precipitation passes through the gutters.
Gutters made of zinc-titanium, coated polymer paints. Amazing resistance to any external influences, strength and durability make such gutters attractive to consumers. The only thing that stops it is the fairly high cost.

What is included in the package of the drainage system

Gutter.
Drainpipes.
Plugs.
Couplings.
Funnels.
Knee.
Brackets
Clamps with pins.

DIY options

Adhering to a clear algorithm of work, a gutter installed independently will be in no way inferior in quality to a gutter made by professional specialists.

The first thing you need to do is make a small drawing.

Depending on the number of roof slopes, there are different drainage installation schemes.

Next, fix the first hook for the gutter at the beginning of the roof overhang. Once the desired slope of the gutter is determined (usually this parameter is no more than 2 cm per meter), the outermost hook for the cornice is fixed. By pulling a rope between them, they mark the places where all other hooks are fixed (steps of no more than 6 cm).

Plugs with rubber gaskets are attached to the edges of the gutter. All joints are thoroughly coated silicone sealant.

All other elements of the gutter are mounted on pre-fixed hooks.

A drain hole is cut at the bottom point of the gutter, into which a drain funnel will later be mounted.

The gutters are connected into a single structure using locking joints.

A drain funnel is installed.

Vertical drainpipes are attached to the wall, the lower elbow of which should not reach 30 cm to the ground.

Design and calculation rules

When designing an external drainage system, it is important to adhere to certain conditions:

gutters are mounted on roofs whose slope angle is no more than 15C;
The average height of the sides is 12cm.

The calculation is carried out using the following formula: one funnel per 0.75 sq.m. roofing and 1 cm2 pipes for drainage.

How to correctly calculate the number of gutters and pipes

When calculating the external drainage scheme, it is important to examine the entire façade of the building for protruding parts and other architectural features.

The calculation of the gutter height is determined depending on the angle of the roof slope.

The calculation is carried out based on the following indicators: height from the ground to the eaves * 0.2 - height of the pipe bend + height of the funnel. The resulting value is divided by the length of the drainpipe (on average 3-4 meters).

DIY installation features

Installing a gutter with your own hands is a complex process that requires strict adherence to certain rules. The first thing you need to do is calculate the throughput.

The layout of all elements of the future drain depends on this indicator. It is also necessary to clearly know the area of the roof and the house, the method of fastening all the elements of the drainage system.

All parts must be of the same type and size, which ensures high-quality performance and durability of the installed system.

When connecting several drainpipes together, it is better to treat the joints with silicone sealant. It provides excellent sealing of joints during sudden temperature changes.
It is recommended to carry out all work on the installation of drains at an air temperature of at least -5C.
Upon completion of installation of the drainage system, an inspection must be carried out. To do this, just pour several buckets of water into the pipes.
Every year, before the start of winter, pipes and trays must be cleaned of fallen leaves, branches and dirt.

It is important to know: Do not clean pipes with metal brushes. Their use violates the integrity of the top protective layer. Cleaning is best done with a soft broom or high-pressure water jet.

It is necessary to ensure that the central axis of the gutter exactly coincides with the edge of the cornice. Otherwise, sediment may overflow.

Conclusion

Installing a roof drainage system with your own hands is a labor-intensive undertaking. But professional advice and strict adherence to the work algorithm will help you do everything efficiently and quickly.

For instructions on how to install gutters with your own hands, watch the following video:

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