How to make a door frame. Installing door trims: several installation techniques Attach door trims

Platbands are decorative elements. They not only give the doorway a finished look, but also perfectly mask gaps, cracks, and depressions. The planks are divided into several groups based on the material of manufacture, shape, and method of fastening.

Installation of casing is carried out after finishing the walls, but before laying floor plinth. The article tells you how to choose planks, what fastening methods exist, and how to install trim on interior doors with your own hands.

These are overhead strips. They are designed to decorate window or door openings. They are usually used in wooden houses, but today the platbands have wide scope applications. The main task of the elements is to close the gaps between window or doorways and a box.

Platbands – required elements exterior finishing. Installation of products will reduce the cost of purchasing building mixtures and additional materials. But the final result will depend on the correct choice of cashing.

Varieties

Planks are made from various materials. Each category has its own characteristics, Advantages and disadvantages. The choice depends on:

  • type of installed interior doors;
  • general color range;
  • personal needs.

Plastic

PVC strips are made of durable plastic. They do not deform under the influence of unfavorable climatic factors. Designed for a long service life, do not fade, do not melt. They do not require special care: it is enough to wipe the trim with a damp cloth once a week.

Plastic – cheap material. It harmonizes perfectly with other types of materials. For example, wooden interior doors can be decorated with slats.

The disadvantages of plastic are the limited choice of models and colors. Manufacturers offer trims in white and some shades of brown. Other colors can only be obtained upon individual order.

Wooden

Popular and in demand platbands. The main advantage is versatility. They are perfect for any type of interior door. Wood products available in various forms, color solutions. However, wooden planks require timely updating. Thanks to advanced technologies, products can:

  • putty;
  • restore;
  • apply paint and varnish coatings.

MDF

For the manufacture of MDF planks, only Newest technologies. Therefore, the material acquires higher qualities.

Attention

Fiberboard with medium density has similar environmental friendliness to wood.

The elements are in high demand due to their low price and durability. But low performance moisture resistance do not allow their installation in rooms with high humidity– toilets, bathrooms.

Is it possible to install this element on the door leaf?

Cashing is designed for installation on entrance and interior doors. But the wizard needs to prepare the elements for subsequent installation. At this stage, be sure to take into account the mounting methods (they will be described below). The attractiveness of the final result will depend on the accuracy of trimming the component structures.

Cutting can be done with one of the following tools:

  • Electric miter saw. Advantages - the cut is as smooth as possible, without chips or roughness. Experienced technicians advise checking the disk for serviceability. If the element is blunt or crooked, the platbands will deteriorate.
  • Factory miter box. This is a metal, plastic or wooden tray. It allows you to cut planks at an angle of 90, 45 and 30 degrees.
  • With a hacksaw. Suitable for forming cuts in overhead trims. Be sure to take into account the material used to make the planks. It is better to cut metal and plastic ones with a hacksaw, and wooden ones - using a wood frame.

The cutting angle is selected individually, based on personal preferences and the type of final result.

After preparatory work installation can begin.

Installation instructions: how to install correctly?

For proper execution installation work It is important to understand how cash is attached correctly. If you take into account the recommendations and advice of experienced craftsmen, each stage will seem like an easy task.

Preparing the base of the door leaf

Be sure to check the edges of the panel and the wall for chips, gaps, and unevenness. If there are strong differences in the base, then you can use a putty and primer mixture. Bring uneven edges to perfection and sand thoroughly.

Installation methods

You can install platbands:

  • finishing and liquid nails;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • "beaks".

Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. But first things first.

How to nail with finishing nails?

Popular type of fastener. Advantages:

  • invisibility;
  • simple installation;
  • does not require special knowledge.

The platbands are fixed using nails 4 cm long and 1.5 mm in diameter. The distance between nails should be 50 cm.

The installation process is as follows:

  1. Mark points on the slats with a simple pencil;
  2. drive nails into the marks so that they go in 20 mm;
  3. narrow nail heads can be cut with side cutters;
  4. Disguise the resulting depressions with a wax pencil of the desired shade.

Disadvantages of this method:

  • it is impossible to perform subsequent dismantling of the platbands;
  • weak connection.

Attach using liquid nails

An ideal option for installing MDF casing. It is enough to apply the substance in dots to the underside of the frame and press it against the wall above the interior door. Keep in this form for 5-10 minutes, depending on the manufacturer's recommendations. Then secure with tape.

Liquid nails leave no marks. But the level of strength does not reach high levels. Substance Bad quality requires long exposure and additional application to slats.

Fasten with self-tapping screws

The strongest and reliable way. Suitable for fixing wooden frames. Even a beginner can handle this kind of work. To secure the element with self-tapping screws, just follow the instructions:

  1. prepare self-tapping screws 2 cm long, 6 mm in diameter;
  2. on the front side of the casing, mark the points so that the distance between them is 50 cm;
  3. drill the designated areas with an appropriate drill;
  4. screw in the screws, pulling the plank to the wall.

Hats can be masked with putty or decorative overlays required color.

How to attach “beaks”?

These are platbands having an L-shaped appearance. Fastening involves snapping the element into place. The method has the disadvantage of gradual delamination of the elements. The fastening area destroys the remaining structural parts, which requires additional use of an adhesive composition.

We invite you to watch a video about another method of fastening platbands using polyurethane foam and self-clamping clamps:

Joining methods: how to file joints?

Today, three methods of joining platbands are actively practiced.

  1. At an angle of 45 degrees. It is enough to cut the planks at an angle of 45 degrees in the places where they will be connected to each other. The method allows you to hide areas of cuts. Suitable for any type of finish.
  2. At an angle of 90 degrees. The cash is cut at an appropriate angle. Next, place the top trim board between the right and left pieces.
  3. At an angle of 90 degrees with an imitation jumper. It is carried out as the previous method, but the upper part on both sides should protrude at a certain equal distance. Allows you to create an unusual interior design.

How to align the plane of the platband with the wall?

It is not always possible to create a perfect cash register with your own hands. The reason for the appearance of shortcomings and deviations from standards is considered to be the presence of crooked walls. The box in this case is not parallel to the base. In case of minor errors, you can perform the following measures:

  1. Press the strip against the door frame. Measure the size of the gap that has formed between the door and the wall. If it is no more than 3 mm, then the deficiency can be eliminated without complex construction work.
  2. Take a narrow lining. The dimensions of the element and the gap must be identical. Place the pad on the work table of the saw or miter box. This way she will lift one side of the bar while washing.
  3. Press the bar tightly to the work table, cut the angle at an angle of 45 degrees. There should be a slight slope in relation to the surface. The joint is sealed. There is no need to use sealant.

If there is a large error, then you should use one of the proposed methods.

  1. Dismantling the wall and arranging a niche. This is required when the door frame goes deep into the wall. You should attach the frame to the door block and draw lines along the wall. Using a grinder, cut through the marks, creating grooves around the entire perimeter. Install planks in the cut-out areas. If the grooves are deeper, fill the excess with cement mortar.
  2. Using a plane. Required in cases where purchased wooden planks turned out to be too thick. It is enough to trim off the excess, acting carefully and carefully.

The method will depend on the material:

  • Plastic skirting board equipped with decorative caps. This allows you to hide the junction of the platband and the floor element.
  • Wooden plinth should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees. Then align the adjacent side with the thickness of the door trim.

Using electric tool, you must remember about personal protective equipment. Gloves, goggles and masks will help prevent construction dust from entering the body and protect your hands from injury.

Tools for work

Standard set includes:

  • plastic, wooden or MDF trim;
  • primer, putty mixture;
  • wax pencil or decorative rivets to match the color of the cash;
  • screwdriver, plane or electric miter saw;
  • self-tapping screws, liquid nails, “beaks”, or finishing nails;
  • simple pencil, tape measure;
  • level, corner templates;
  • individual protection means.

Attention

Purchase platbands with a sufficient amount of stock. If not hand tools, you can rent it. The self-tapping screws must be thin so that after completion of the work they do not protrude outward, and most importantly, do not spoil the building material.

Practical advice from experienced builders They will help you complete the work much faster, more accurately and professionally. They are as follows:

  • First fastener It is better to fix it in the center of the casing. This will allow you to freely rotate and align the bar to create a tighter connection at the corners of the cut. Drive in the remaining screws or finishing nails after achieving an ideal surface.
  • Maintain the distance between nails and screws. It should be no less than 20 cm, and no more than 50 cm. By lightly tapping, you can determine the loose fit of the casing. If there are voids, screw in an additional fastener.
  • If, while driving the nail, it does not reach the end, then you should turn it with pliers in different directions. It is forbidden to pull it out, otherwise the bar will deteriorate.
  • The tightness of the cashing will be increased by polyurethane foam. Apply it only with reverse side stripes and thin stripes. Wait 3-4 minutes and stick to the wall. Then perform additional fixation using any chosen method. Carefully cut off excess polyurethane foam with a knife.
  • Use sealant if necessary. Especially for interior doors located in rooms with high humidity. The substance will create maximum protection against the formation of fungus and mold, and the appearance of microorganisms.

If wooden trims were purchased, it is better to cover them with appropriate protective composition. The layer will prevent rapid delamination, deterioration and cracking of the material.

Interior examples

Owners of modern apartments and private houses give their preference to plastic and wooden building materials. In practice, interiors look great where the finishing of interior doors is made of PVC and wooden trims.

Here detailed instructions for installing wooden cashing:

  1. Preparation. Using a knife, clean the doorway from any protruding foam. Then check the position of the wall and door frame with a level lath. If irregularities are observed, then eliminate them using the methods described above.
  2. Tags. Install the planks so that rounded corners door frame were visible, and straight lines coincided with the corners of the decorative frame. Attach the strips and use a pencil to mark points at a distance of 3 mm above the box. If the location of the cash suits you, then install it.
  3. Attach vertical strips to the marks; the points must be placed at the required height for their subsequent fastening.
  4. Trim vertical elements at a 45 degree angle.
  5. Secure the vertical trims with self-tapping screws or nails, then the horizontal ones.

If you carefully install a wooden cash register, the interior will noticeably change, becoming more solid and rich. Interior doors will acquire a completed appearance and will look much more interesting.

The following instructions will allow you to correctly install PVC trims:

  1. Measure and apply markings to the cashing mounting profile. It is a plastic product equipped with latches for fastening the front profile.
  2. Cut the planks at a 45 degree angle. The mounting profile can be cut 10 mm shorter than the front profile. This makes it easier to take measurements.
  3. Attach the mounting profile to the wall with self-tapping screws.
  4. Measure the front from the floor to the corner of the door frame. Do not forget to take into account the thickness of the connecting elements. Usually it has a value of 3 mm.
  5. Vertical frames should be cut at an angle and secured in the mounting profile using latches.
  6. Install connecting elements into the cut corners. Cut the front profile at a 45 degree angle. Then install it in the designated place.

Thanks to the attractiveness of the fittings, the joints look beautiful. No need to use silicone sealant to mask gaps.

Doors with wooden lining:


Doors with plastic lining:





You can install cashing on interior doors with your own hands, without involving experienced craftsmen. It is important to prepare the necessary tools, take advantage of the advice and recommendations of experts, and follow the instructions. If you are patient and careful, you can add a piece of beauty to the interior door and the interior of the room.

The platband is a door element that performs a decorative function, covering the seam between the doorway and the frame. The appearance of the door depends on the quality of its installation, so you need to approach this process responsibly.

Types of platbands

Platbands differ depending on the material from which they are made. They can be made from:

  • wood;
  • plastic;
  • metal

Each of the materials used has its own characteristics. Metal platbands are made of aluminum or steel.

Plastic ones have a wide choice color solutions. They are cheap and can be installed using liquid nails. Plastic casing is flexible, so it is successfully used on uneven walls.

MDF trims have their own nuances when fastening. When using nails, you need to make blind holes for them so as not to damage the material during the nailing process.

The shape of the platbands can be:

  • flat;
  • curly;
  • rounded.

Flat and rounded ones can be purchased at any store. Figured ones are usually made to order.

Depending on the installation method, the following types are distinguished:


Mounting methods

Attaching platbands with your own hands can be done in two ways:


How to install platbands depends on their type and material of manufacture. So, telescopic ones are attached only to liquid nails. You can install the rest in one or another way.

Installation features

Installation of cashing is carried out after installing the door and finishing the walls of the room, but before installing the baseboard. If the box is placed correctly and is flush with the wall, then nailing the platbands with your own hands will not be difficult.

If cashing needs to be attached on both sides of the door, then start with the one where the hinges are located. In this case, when fastening, one feature must be taken into account. It is impossible to install the platband flush with the door frame, because the fittings will interfere. Therefore, an indent of several millimeters is made from the corner of the door frame. This distance is maintained when attaching the horizontal and second vertical strips. The installation of platbands on the doors from the reverse side is carried out without this indentation.

Joining of platbands

The vertical and horizontal strips must fit together correctly to ensure an attractive doorway. The platbands can be secured by joining them together at an angle of 90 or 45 degrees.

Cutting a corner at 90 degrees is used when the shape of the interior doors is flat, that is, it is a rectangle in cut. It doesn’t matter whether the joining seams are located horizontally or vertically. After sawing, the sections are processed acrylic paint or varnish. The 90 degree angle is also suitable when decorating with a capital - a decorative element that gives a luxurious look to the door.

An angle of 45 degrees is used when installing figured and rounded platbands. It ensures perfect joining of horizontal and vertical planks. You can make such an angle using a miter box, a jigsaw or an ordinary hacksaw, drawing a cut line.

Tools for work

Installation of platbands is carried out using the following tools:

  • pencil, square;
  • roulette;
  • miter box;
  • hammer, nails.

Instead of a miter box, a jigsaw or hacksaw is quite suitable.

Installation process

Do-it-yourself installation of platbands begins with measurements. It is necessary to correctly and accurately measure the height of the opening. This can be done with a tape measure, then transfer the measurement to the bar or apply the cash to the opening and actually mark the place where you need to make a cut on the inside of the corner. External corner is defined as follows. The width of the casing is added to the inner side and the place on its outer side is marked.

Do the same with the second vertical bar. You should not blindly transfer the opening height values ​​obtained when measuring the first casing. The distance from the floor to the top of the opening may vary.

In order to correctly mark a horizontal bar with your own hands, the vertical ones are attached to two nails: one is nailed near the floor, and the second is at a distance of a meter from the first. The vertical strip is pre-prepared by cutting at 45 degrees on one side. It is applied to the installation site, placed behind a vertical bar where there is no saw cut, and in fact the angle that needs to be made is marked.

After marking and filing the corners of the plank, you need to nail it with nails or glue it around the perimeter of the doorway. A fastening step of 15-20 centimeters is used for doors that are often used. For balcony or storage doors, 50 centimeters between nails will be enough.

Elimination of defects

If this is your first time installing platbands with your own hands, then not everything may be perfect. The cracks formed as a result of improper sawing can be hidden with wood putty or a wax corrector, selecting the required color.

Telescopic trims

Telescopic trims are installed on interior doors using special slots and grooves, which are provided at the manufacturing stage. Their peculiarity is that fastening is possible only on a perfectly flat surface. Otherwise, gaps will be noticeable, and the appearance of the doorway will leave much to be desired.

Do-it-yourself installation of telescopic trims is possible on doors with different opening widths. This is achieved due to the fact that the slot can not be fully inserted into the groove if the opening is larger than the provided standard size. If it is smaller, then the protrusion can be filed down.

For openings with very thick walls, the width of the uncovered area is hidden using telescopic extensions.

Installing trim on interior doors with your own hands is not a complicated process. Knowing the installation process and types of cashing, you can choose suitable option in each specific case.

It is difficult to imagine a house or apartment without doors. Purpose entrance doors– this is, first of all, protection and preservation of heat, and the main function of interior doors is zoning the space in the room. The variety of materials from which doors are made today is amazing, but door leaves cannot be installed without platbands, because they give the door a finished and aesthetically attractive look.

Peculiarities

What are these platbands? And why doesn’t the door look so attractive without them? To answer these questions you need to understand all the features of these elements.

Platbands are strips installed around the perimeter on both sides entrance opening, in which the door is located. The main function of platbands is to cover the gap between the wall and the door frame.

They perfectly hide individual structural and installation elements (the ends of the door frame, screws, fasteners, polyurethane foam), and also prevent the penetration of drafts, thereby retaining heat in the room. Their decorative function is no less important. Correctly selected and installed platbands decorate not only the door itself, but also the opening in which it is installed.

Installing platbands is the final touch in transforming the entire room, so their selection and installation should be approached very scrupulously, having thought through all the details and studying not only the features, but also the types of these important elements.

Kinds

Door trims have their own classification, thanks to which they can be divided into types according to several criteria. The most significant differences include the form and method of installation of these elements.

Platbands mounted around the perimeter doorway, are usually rectangular in shape, but differ from each other in the shape of the front side. It is the shape of the surface that allows them to be divided into flat, semicircular and figured.

Flat-shaped platbands have an even and, based on the name, flat surface, in cross section such a strip has the shape of a rectangle. Semicircular trims have a convex surface, and depending on the designer’s idea, it can be symmetrical in the shape of a crescent, or it can be slightly shifted to one side of the plank and resemble a falling drop. Flat and semicircular types are among the most common platbands: they are most often installed on interior doors.

A more expensive and less common option is figured platbands. A distinctive feature of this species is the presence of a certain relief on their surface. The relief pattern is located along the plank and consists of shaped depressions in the form of grooves, alternating with hills in the form of rollers. Embossed trim gives the door a rather attractive and original look.

The installation method is another sign that allows you to classify platbands. Depending on what and how the planks are attached to the opening, they are divided into overhead and telescopic.

A more common option is overlay strips. In order to install them in the opening, nails, self-tapping screws, PVA glue, liquid nails or sealant are required. It is with the help of these fasteners that the overhead trims are held on the wall.

Telescopic platbands are attached in a different way: they do not need to be nailed or screwed to the wall - they hold well due to their special L-shape, which is their undoubted advantage. One edge of such a plank has a rounded shape and adjoins directly to the wall, and the other is bent in a special way and, when installed, fits into the recess (groove) of the box, firmly connecting to it.

This method of fastening allows you to avoid installing special extension strips if the thickness of the box does not exceed the thickness of the wall by more than 10-15 mm. If necessary, the telescopic strips can be extended to a length of 1-2 cm. Thus, they will perfectly hide the gap between the frame and the wall.

Telescopic platbands can be attached not only to the box, but also to the extensions. If the distance between the wall and the frame exceeds the mark of 15–20 mm, then the installation of extensions cannot be avoided. Most often, the front door is installed with extensions, since the opening is almost always thicker than the frame.

Platbands can also be classified according to the method of joining. At the top of the opening, the planks are in contact with each other, the angle of their connection is the basis that helps classify the platbands according to the method of joining. The ends of the planks can be connected at either an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

In order to connect the ends of the plank at an angle of 45 degrees, you will have to trim each plank on the joining side. This cutting method is the most common and suitable for planks with any surface shape.

Platbands joining at the ends at an angle of 90 degrees can have two joining directions: horizontal and vertical. This joining method is suitable for straight planks with a rectangular cross-section.

Platbands with a figured and semicircular surface cannot be installed in this way, since the convex or figured end part with this arrangement will rise above the surface of the joined plank.

Materials

For the manufacture of platbands, materials of different origins are used in production. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages, which are taken into account during installation.

Platbands can be made of wood, plastic, fiberboard (MDF), and metal.

Wood is the most environmentally friendly material. For the manufacture of platbands they use different breeds trees. Budget models most often made from soft wood species such as pine or linden, and for the more expensive segment oak, beech or wenge are used. Wooden planks are considered universal products: they are suitable for almost any door leaf, the main thing is to choose the right tone using paint, wax or stain. Wooden trims are easy to install and can last quite a long time. long time if you care for them properly.

But wood has its drawbacks: wooden products do not tolerate temperature changes and excessive air humidity well, without treatment by special means wooden surface absorbs a large number of moisture, which leads to rotting processes and ultimately to deformation of the product. In addition, the untreated surface of the planks often darkens, losing its original tone. But in fairness, it is worth noting that the material can still be restored. To restore a presentable appearance, cracks can be filled with putty, darkened areas can be cleaned, the surface can be treated with an antiseptic and covered with any paint and varnish material.

The second most popular material is fibreboard (MDF). The surface of MDF trims in appearance is very similar to the structure of wood, so planks made of this material are in great demand compared to other types. This is not surprising, because MDF boards are environmentally friendly materials: when gluing fibers, substances of natural origin are used: paraffin and lignin.

In order for the MDF trim to match the tone of the door frame, door leaf, trims and other elements, they are lined.

The front surface of the plank is either laminated or veneered. Lamination is the process of wrapping an MDF blank PVC film, and pasting with a thin cut of solid wood on the front side is veneering. Laminated types have good wear resistance, and veneered trims are not inferior in quality and appearance to wooden models.

The MDF material has only one drawback - it is poor resistance to moisture. As a rule, platbands from of this material do not install in rooms with high humidity and are not used for lining entrance door openings.

You can attach MDF trims using glue, liquid or special nails.

One of the most practical materials used for the production of platbands is plastic. The service life of plastic panels is much longer than those made of MDF.

It is resistant to temperature changes, which means the planks are not subject to deformation processes. The surface of the panels does not fade in the sun, their color remains unchanged throughout their entire service life. Plastic is a moisture-resistant material, which means that the panels will not rot or become covered with mold. Caring for them is simple: just wipe the products with a damp cloth.

Plastic trims, unlike products made from MDF, can be installed outdoors: they will withstand all atmospheric conditions perfectly.

Plastic panels good quality in appearance they are not much different from similar MDF products, but are sold for a lower price compared to MDF panels. Installation of plastic platbands is simple and accessible even for beginners.

For fixation plastic products Liquid nails are most often used, since disruption of the structure of the material with ordinary thin nails can lead to cracking and delamination of the product into small pieces.

Practical metal is used less often than other materials for the production of platbands. Metal strips differ from the above materials in their increased resistance to mechanical stress, which is why they are used during installation entrance structures. Entrance doors, as a rule, are also made of metal; when installing them, platbands are used extremely rarely as separate elements - their function is performed by the door frame.

The metal is not afraid of moisture, does not fade in the sun, and even significant temperature fluctuations are not able to deform the planks.

Dimensions

There are four significant circumstances that influence the dimensions of the platband: the dimensions and location of the opening, the shape of the planks and the size of the gap between the wall and the frame.

Manufacturers produce platbands with different widths not by chance, but quite reasonably. The dimensions of openings in different apartments, and even more so in private houses, can differ significantly from each other, which, accordingly, affects the size of the door leaves, the frame itself and, of course, the size of the trim. For standard door leaves (80*200 cm), the width of the platband is in the range of 6–10 cm.

The optimal width is 6.4 cm (64 mm): it is enough to close the gap and cover a small part of the wall. Planks with a width of more than 64–70 mm with standard dimensions of the door structure look somewhat rough, which is why manufacturers produce most models of platbands in exactly this width.

The size of the gap between the wall and the frame is an important indicator when choosing the width of the platband. When installing a door of standard dimensions, it is not always possible to install strips 64–70 mm wide - you have to choose narrower models. There may be several reasons for this:

  • close furniture;
  • the door structure has smaller dimensions compared to standard dimensions;
  • location of the doorway (the door frame on one or both sides is close to a perpendicular wall);
  • design of the door structure (many decorative elements located on the canvas exclude the use of a wide strip in the frame, and the narrow trim in this case only serves the function of masking the gap).

In any case, the width of the platband should be several millimeters greater than the width of the gap. According to SNiPs it is 30 mm. As a rule, 40 mm is enough to hide structural details and beautifully frame part of the wall.

The width of the strip also depends on the shape of the casing: for flat models it is 64 mm, for products with a semicircular surface – 70 mm, and for figured casings with a relief surface, the width ranges from 85–150 mm.

For telescopic platbands, the width parameter is within different limits: the standard width for such models starts from 60 mm and ends at 80 mm. The optimal width is 75 mm. Due to their structure, telescopic platbands, in addition to width, also have other parameters: the thickness of the strip and the length of the groove element.

Telescopic bars are produced by manufacturers of different sizes. For models with flat type surfaces are:

  • 75x8x10 mm;
  • 75x10x10 mm;
  • 75x8x20 mm;
  • 75x10x20 mm.

For planks with a drop-shaped surface:

  • 75x16x10 mm;
  • 75x16x20 mm.

The first number indicates the width of the strip, the second the thickness, and the third the length of the mounting edge.

Design

Every person, when buying a door, wants the opening into which the structure will be installed to look perfect: the frame and door panel stand straight, and the trim frames beautifully frame the entire structure. Some people do not tolerate excesses, and they prefer simple door designs with flat or arched platbands around the perimeter of the opening, while others want to emphasize their individuality by installing doors with beautiful figured platbands.

But figured platbands are not the only way to help emphasize the peculiarity of the door design. There are other methods that can be used to transform door leaf. Very often, additional elements are used as decoration in the form of overlays located in the upper part of the casing - capitals.

capital like decorative element known since ancient times. In essence, this is the upper part of the column, stylized with elements (flowers, leaves, curls) characteristic of a certain architectural style. IN modern design this decorative element is actively used in the transformation door designs in a classic style.

Capitals of various shapes and figured carvings allow you to visually increase the height of the opening, while adding solidity and high cost not only to the door structure, but also to the opening. They are installed, as a rule, only from the front part of the opening - on the reverse side there are platbands without them.

In appearance, the capital with a platband resembles an antique column. The overlays are located in the upper part of the vertical strips, forming a single composition with them. Between the capitals there is a platband similar in design. Sometimes, as an overlay, another decorative element is added to the top bar - a cornice. This decorative element has a beautiful figured protrusion that resembles a visor in appearance. The cornice goes well with the capitals, but even without them, framed by simple planks, it looks no worse.

Not only can you decorate a door structure with the help of capitals and cornices; there are also other decorative techniques. One of these techniques is framing the door using carved trims.

Carved platbands are flat or convex wooden planks with rounded edges and decorated with a carved pattern over the entire surface.

In addition to the usual pattern applied using a sharp tool, the surface of the planks may also contain a pattern made using the burning technique. Such platbands, as a rule, cost more than usual, but the price for such beauty is quite justified. Using carved frames in the house, you can create your own unique style, and also add to the room special atmosphere and comfort.

How to choose?

Many manufacturers produce door designs with ready-made platbands, which allows you not to think about matching the door strips. But this doesn't always happen. Sometimes, due to various circumstances, you have to do the selection yourself, and in order to choose the right planks that fit most naturally into the existing interior, you need to take into account some nuances.

When selecting platbands, first of all, you should think about the size. Wide trims should be chosen if it is necessary to hide large defects around the perimeter of the box that arise not only during the installation of the box, but also during the finishing of the walls.

Very often, when replacing old planks with new models, it is not possible to purchase platbands of the same width due to the fact that the wallpaper cut does not reach the wall border or the gap between the wall and the frame is much larger than 30 mm. In this case, there are two options: either finish the walls again, which is not very profitable, especially if the renovation was not part of your plans, or buy wider planks than before.

But it is worth remembering that slats with a width of more than 100 mm can visually make the structure heavy and even awkward, so you should opt for standard sizes of slats.

The purchase of planks less than 64 mm wide can only be justified by a narrow door leaf or layout features. The closer the opening is to a perpendicular wall or furniture, the narrower the plank should be. A wide plank with such a layout will only visually reduce the space, especially if it is installed end-to-end.

Not only the width, but also the length of the slats must be taken into account when choosing platbands. In order to correctly calculate the length, you need to know the parameters of the door frame. The slats should be 10–15 cm longer than the vertically installed elements. As a rule, in hardware stores you can see slats 215–220 cm long. To cover a standard door structure, you will need 5 slats on both sides: 2 on each side are installed vertically, and The remaining plank is divided in half and each half is installed at the top of the opening.

It is equally important to select platbands taking into account the material from which they are made and color. The material and color of the platbands must completely match or be as close as possible in structure and tone to the door leaf and baseboards, otherwise the design will not look very organic. It is also permissible to choose colors that contrast with the door leaf and baseboards.

If you plan to run cables through the door, then the best option would be plastic trims with cable channels located on the inside of the slats.

The choice of platbands based on material should be justified by the style of the room. Wooden trim and MDF panels will look good in rooms with classic style, and for rooms decorated in a modern style, practical plastic panels are more suitable.

The type of room also affects the choice of platbands. Almost all materials are suitable for rooms with moderate humidity. For entrance doors it is better to use metal trims. The lining of kitchen and bathroom openings can be decorated with ceramic platbands, especially if the adjacent walls are decorated with a similar material.

The choice of shape depends on the design of the room, compliance with the door leaf and the preferences of the owners. The more decorated the door is, the more modest the shape of the slats should be.

For interiors decorated in Baroque and Provence styles, the best option would be wide (from 90 to 120 mm) figured platbands with a clearly visible pattern.

Installation

In order to install platbands with your own hands, you need accurate measurements and knowledge of some installation nuances. If you have free time and patience, installation will not be difficult, the main thing is to properly prepare the place and planks.

Any installation, including the installation of platbands, requires some preparatory measures. In this case, this is preparing the surface of the doorway.

Foam is always used between the installed door frame and the wall to close the voids. After hardening, it happens that it protrudes slightly above the surface. To ensure a tighter fit of the plank to the surface, it is necessary to cut off these protruding parts as close as possible to the surface of the wall and frame. They need to be trimmed as carefully as possible, without touching the visible surface of the box.

Sometimes it happens that the surface of the wall and the box are not in the same plane: a difference of more than 3 mm has formed between them. This discrepancy will have to be eliminated, otherwise it will not be possible to install the platbands as evenly as possible.

There are two ways to solve this problem: hollowing out the wall for a niche for the platband or reducing the thickness of the plank.

The first method is suitable if the frame of the structure is strongly recessed into the wall.

  • First you need to attach the trim to the surface of the box and outline the line where the plank joins the wall. Then, using a suitable tool (its choice depends on the material of origin), make a cut along the box.
  • Along the marked line, use a grinder or chisel to make a recess under the bar.
  • To control the depth of the groove, the bar must be applied to the wall from time to time.
  • Places where the depressions are larger than the intended norm can be cemented or another suitable composition can be used.
  • To check, the plank must be applied to the wall almost after a few seconds, until the composition has completely dried and the size of the indentation can be further adjusted.

The second method is suitable for cases where the casing is made of wood and the plank has a decent amount of thickness. For this work, you will have to arm yourself with a plane, with which you need to remove a layer of several millimeters from the back side. This must be done carefully and slowly, since the extra millimeters removed will be impossible to restore.

It is necessary to prepare for installation not only the surface of the wall, but also the casing itself. Often, during transportation or unsuccessful storage, damage can occur at the ends of the planks; to eliminate them, you just need to trim the ends by a few millimeters. Trimming is carried out only from the part that will come into contact with the floor.

After preparation, you can begin marking. In order to correctly mark the length of each strip, you need to attach them to the installation site. The mark for the required length depends on the cutting angle and location.

First of all, you need to make a mark on the bar installed on the hinge side. You need to apply the plank to the surface of the wall and frame with an indentation of 3–4 mm. This is necessary so that during operation the door hinges do not come into contact with the bar. On the side of the lock, the bar is also applied with a slight indentation from the rounded corner of the box. If there are extras, the bar is placed at the same level with them.

The length of the vertical bar is measured simply. It is applied to the location and 3–4 mm is added upward from the point of intersection of the inner corner of the box with the bar. To join the planks at an angle of 45 degrees, this mark is final - it is from this that the cut is made. If you plan to join the ends at an angle of 90 degrees, then you need to add the width of the strip to the resulting length. To determine the length of the horizontal bar, you must also attach it to the surface and make marks on each side, departing from internal corners boxes are the same 3–4 mm.

It must be remembered that marks for cutting the length must be made on each plank at the location of its specific installation. Thus, the floor level in different areas can fluctuate within a few millimeters, and in some cases even centimeters. In addition, in order not to get confused which bar goes where, they are numbered.

After marking all the planks, you need to file them at the selected angle. You can do this using different instruments: miter saw, miter box, jigsaw or fine-tooth saw. Regardless of which tool will be used for the job, it is necessary to make a small indent from the mark, and only then make the cut. This measure is associated with such a feature as the width of the cut: its value depends on the type of tool and is in the range of 1–3 mm.

For trims cut at a 90-degree angle, the best option would be to leave the ends of the vertical strips open. With this method of cutting, the vertical strips cover the sections of the horizontal platband on both sides, and their open ends are located at the top and are practically invisible to the eye.

For telescopic platbands, in addition to the main cut along the length, another one is made from the side of the location of the element entering the groove of the extension or frame. The undercut on the side allows the top of the plank to fit snugly against the surface of the frame and wall.

After all the preparatory work, you can begin attaching the platbands. The installation method is selected depending on the material of origin of the planks.

You can secure wooden and MDF trims using thin nails, special pins or self-tapping screws. Installation must begin with vertical strips and according to the marks previously placed on them. In order for the plank to hold well, the distance between the nails (screws) should be within 50 cm. During intensive use of the door, the distance is reduced to 15–20 cm.

In order to nail the planks correctly and have the opportunity to correct the platband in case of an error, you do not need to hammer in all the nails at once - it is enough to secure the plank in the center and at the base without hammering them in completely.

The second vertical strip is installed in a similar way, followed by a horizontal casing. After adjusting the end joints, all planks are finally secured.

You can fix the platbands not only with nails or self-tapping screws, but also with liquid nails. This method fasteners are suitable provided that the walls have a perfectly flat surface.

The composition is applied to the inside of each plank over the entire surface. To fix, the casing is pressed firmly against the surface for 1–2 minutes. As a rule, this time is enough for the plank to stick well.

The method of attaching plastic trims is slightly different from everyone else. In order to fix them on the surface, you must first install a mounting profile around the perimeter of the box, fixing it with self-tapping screws, and only then insert it into the grooves top part clypeus. The joints of the ends in the corners are covered with special decorative elements.

Installing platbands is not a difficult task, but it requires a sufficient amount of time, effort and skill. It is difficult for beginners to take into account all the details, but there are standard tips thanks to which the installation of platbands can be carried out with minimal errors or without them at all.

  • It is better to install platbands only after wallpapering (painting) on ​​both sides of the opening and in the absence of skirting boards. Skirting boards are laid only after the planks are installed, and not vice versa. Bottom part The planks should not rest on the baseboard - only on the floor.
  • The joining of the side parts of the platband and the plinth depends on the material used to make the latter. For plastic models, the side part is always covered with a shaped plug, so only the length of the product is trimmed. With wooden plinths it is a little different: they do not have plugs, so the side of the plinth adjacent to the plank is cut at 45 degrees.

  • The most difficult moments in installation are the application of marks, the accuracy of which determines the overall appearance of the structure, and the cutting of the planks at an angle of 45 degrees.
  • You don’t always have tools at hand that can accurately cut a 45-degree angle, so in this situation you can use a simple square and a pencil.
  • On the back side of the plank you need to draw a transverse line from the mark. At a distance equal to the width of the bar, another line is drawn. In the resulting square you need to draw a diagonal along which to cut off the excess part of the plank.

  • If the surface of the walls is smooth, it’s easy to do the cutting; the main thing is to accurately mark the location of the cut. But perfect smooth walls It is not available everywhere, and therefore even a correctly made undercut will not save you from the gap between the joints of two planks.
  • The solution to the problem can be simple, but at the same time in an effective way. To determine the magnitude of the wall difference, you need to tightly attach the platband to the frame. If the width of the gap is no more than 2–3 mm, then the situation can be corrected using a lining of similar thickness. It is only used when cutting a corner to raise one side of the plank. The cut is 45 degrees, but has a slight slope to the surface, which allows the ends to be joined without a gap.

  • Sometimes it is impossible to completely get rid of the gap, and there is neither the strength nor the desire to reinstall the slats. In this situation, the best option would be to use a sealant that matches the tone. It can also be used to mask the entry points of nails if they are used as a method of attaching planks.

  • Sections of MDF and wood planks should be sanded using sandpaper. You must act extremely carefully, as there is a risk of damage to the front surface of the plank. After sanding, the sections are painted over using carpenter's markers matched to the color of the planks.

  • If the platbands are attached to the surface with nails, then for convenience you can pre-drill holes in the strip with a diameter of 1.5 mm. The nails themselves should have a diameter of no more than 1.4 mm, and their length should not exceed 40 mm. To ensure that the places where the nails enter are not so conspicuous, the heads are removed using a side cutter. This tool is also used if the nail does not fully penetrate the surface of the plank and, in addition, is bent. Such a nail should not be pulled out, since with a high degree of probability it will be impossible to drive another one. You just need to break off the bent part and nail a new nail next to it.

  • When using self-tapping screws as fasteners, the diameter of the drilled holes should be no more than 6 mm. In this case, the attachment points are masked with decorative caps matching the color of the trim.

  • The aesthetic appearance of the entire structure depends on the tightness of the fit, so very often polyurethane foam is used as an additional measure to increase the adhesion ability of the plank. It is applied on the back side of the plank along the entire length in a narrow strip, and given time to dry. 4-5 minutes are enough for adhesion to the surface of the plank to occur, which is then installed using the chosen fastening method. You should not be afraid that the foam will increase in volume too much and raise the bar, because if you press the bar too hard, the foam will not increase in volume.

Very often, after installing doors, gaps appear that have to be sealed with foam. The main problem is finishing doors are the installation of platbands. The process is not difficult, but painstaking. In order not to spend extra money on hiring specialists, you can install the platbands yourself.

In fact, platbands have been used as a decorative element not so long ago. Therefore, it is not surprising that the market cannot boast of a large number of models. However, there is still a choice.

Wooden crafts

Wood products have always been a classic door product. The advantages of this material are obvious:

  • Aesthetics. Few things compare to natural wood in terms of beauty.
  • Durability. Wood can serve its owners for centuries. The same applies to wooden platbands. Some pre-revolutionary houses still have such platbands.
  • Environmental friendliness. This property is especially important if you have children. The tree does not emit any harmful substances. And some breeds even saturate the air in the room with beneficial essential oils.

There are only 2 disadvantages of such platbands: price and the need for constant maintenance. As for the price, there is no point in saying anything: wooden products have always been expensive. In terms of maintenance, we mean the need to sand and re-varnish the surface every 2-3 years. If all these points do not confuse the future owner, then better platbands will not be found.

It only remains to add that it is extremely undesirable to install wooden trim in a bathroom or toilet, since the wood may suffer from constant exposure to water vapor. But all platbands suffer from this problem to one degree or another. Therefore, in bathrooms, slopes are always covered with tiles, without bothering with platbands.

Laminated MDF planks

MDF is a rethought and improved version of fiberboard. The resorbed wood board is covered with a special film. In theory, such a coating should protect the wood body of the casing from moisture. In practice, MDF, like other materials, is susceptible to moisture.

The big advantage of such platbands is the price. This is actually why models made from MDF are the most popular. In addition, they are easier to install, since the MDF strip is simply thinner, which means less effort will be required to attach the platband to the wall

PVC products

PVC products are as cheap as MDF. But at the same time, platbands made of that material are extremely fragile. Any mechanical impact may break the casing, which will lead to loss of money.

Options for fastening and cutting platbands

Platbands are attached:

  • Self-tapping screws
  • On glue
  • With nails

Each option has its own advantages. For example, screws are easier to hide than nails. In this case, nails are the most reliable fastening option.

Glue is good only because it is not visible. The rest is all downsides: the adhesive composition requires a flat surface, which should preferably be primed. Increased requirements for surface cleanliness completely discourage all desire to work only with adhesive composition. But it is convenient to use a combined fastening method using glue and nails.

Necessary tools for work

There is a basic set of tools, it includes:

  • Hammer
  • Screwdriver
  • Miter box

But with such tools, installation will be quite long. Instead of a saw and miter box, you can use a miter saw. This will make cutting the platbands easier, reducing the required time to 1-2 minutes


Instead of a hammer, you can use an air gun with pins. Under air pressure, the pin is driven in within a second. The tool does not require any special skills, everything is extremely simple.

Instead of a screwdriver, a screwdriver and a drill will do. The listed analogues will significantly save time, but the entire set is rarely found by the average user; it is not worth purchasing all the tools just for the sake of the platbands alone. You can get by with a basic set.

Methods for installing platbands

Each method of installing platbands has its own nuances. Therefore, to fully understand the issue, it is better to examine each point separately.

Docking at an angle of 45 degrees

Joining at 90 degrees is more difficult to perform, since you need to saw the board at an angle, take into account the unevenness of the walls and be especially careful when fastening. But the end result looks much better than the 90 degree joint. The fastenings are no different except for aesthetic qualities.

In order to perform fastening, the required length of the casing is measured. The rounding of the door frame must be taken into account. At the corner between the casing and the door frame, the basic door set has a rounding. This is done to prevent people from being injured upon impact. The casing can be installed from the end of the rounding and further. How much further depends on the preferences of the apartment owner.

Another nuance is the hinges on the door. Exactly on the side with installed hinges The side trims are measured. This is done in order to maintain the symmetry of the installed slats. If the measurements of the upper and lower casing do not coincide, then the coals simply will not fit together.

After taking measurements using a saw and a miter box, the platbands are cut. It is better to find out how correctly the measurements were taken before installation. Just attach the side and top trim to the door and see if there are any extra protrusions. If the upper casing protrudes by 1-2 mm, it can be rounded with a hammer after installation, but it is better to simply redo the cut.

It is advisable to fasten the platbands with liquid nails or polyurethane foam, and then pierce them with nails along the perimeter of the casing. Nails are nailed every 20 cm. It is advisable to mark the locations of the nails in advance so that there are no attachment points at eye level.


The nail heads are coated with acrylic putty to match the color of the casings.

Fastening platbands at an angle of 90 degrees

Mounting at 90 degrees is divided much less often. It is simpler, since there is no need to cut at an angle and properly join the cash. It is enough to simply cut the slats correctly to length and secure them using any of the methods already listed.

Docking at 90 degrees with imitation jumper

Imitating a lintel is a design technique that allows you to make something like a rectangular arch out of platbands. Sometimes it's appropriate, sometimes it's not. In any case, this approach to installation is used extremely rarely.

In order to make cashing in the form of a lintel, the upper casing is made significantly longer than the side ones. This creates the feeling of an arch. Moreover, the rail should not be 20-30 cm longer, but at least 40-50. The lintel element should look like part of the decor, and not a sloppy door frame.

Otherwise there are no differences from the 90 degree mount.

Installation instructions

Installation methods vary slightly depending on the material of the platbands. Some slats have special grooves, some trims are simple slats that need to be nailed or attached with self-tapping screws. The requirements for the rough surface also vary.

Wooden frames

Wooden platbands are good for their unpretentiousness to the rough surface. It is advisable that the wall be clean, but small differences in level can be easily overcome by loosening the fasteners or simply using polyurethane foam.

As a rule, there are two grooves on wooden platbands, and they are filled with a layer of polyurethane foam. This allows you to secure the casing more securely. Extra rigidity wooden frame extended using nails or self-tapping screws. The screw caps are flared and covered with acrylic putty. The heads of the nails are hidden in the same way.

Plastic platbands

Plastic trims are easy to install. They are installed on special nipples, which are self-tapping screws with plastic heads. The platbands have grooves in the form of longitudinal grooves. The groove is aligned with the nipple head and the casing is hit with a fist. A click indicates that the nipple is secured. Depending on the width of the rail there may be 2, 3 or 5 grooves. If desired, you can hide various types of communications in the adjacent furrows: wiring, Internet or television cable.


Telescopic platbands

Telescopic platbands are a relatively new trend in door technology. The meaning of such a platband is that the width of the door frame is less than the thickness of the wall. As a result, a natural groove is formed into which the telescopic platband in the form of a corner is inserted. There is nothing complicated in installation, just insert the platband into the groove.

The nuances of joining platbands with plinths

Platbands always fall to floor level. It is not customary for the slats to rest against the baseboard; it is unsightly and inconvenient, as dust and dirt will clog into the space between the casing and the baseboard. Therefore, somehow you need to play up the moment of joining the platbands and the baseboard.

There are two options for skirting boards: wooden and plastic. With a plastic plinth, the issue of joining is solved with a banal plastic plug. It is quite aesthetically pleasing, cheap, and most importantly: easy to implement. It is much more difficult to resolve the issue with wooden baseboards.

It is impossible to make a plinth with a platband butt-to-edge, since the same problem of contamination will remain. In addition, the platbands are most often thinner than the baseboards, which creates an unsightly protrusion.

Therefore, the transition between platband and baseboard is usually performed. To do this, the baseboard is beveled at an angle of 45 degrees, and the end is joined to the platband. It turns out to be quite aesthetically pleasing and practical in terms of cleaning.

Platbands are a sore subject in door decoration. There are a number of problems that did not arise during the installation of door structures, but appear when installing trims. All issues can be resolved; this requires the correct choice of platbands, preparation of surfaces and skillful use of the fastening system. Despite all the installation problems, installing a platband with your own hands cannot be called difficult. For an ideal apartment, installing a cash register is no problem at all, but such apartments are rare. You just need to be careful about the details: fasteners, measuring and trimming the slats, as well as joining the top and side trims. The main thing: attention to detail.

The main function of door frames is to mask the gaps between the door frame and the opening. Their choice depends on the texture, width and color of the door leaf. In the production process of platbands, wood, steel, aluminum, plastic, MDF, fiberboard and PVC are used. If desired, you can buy laminated trim, lined with plastic and covered with veneer. They are installed after the door leaf is installed. Simple tips specialists will help you understand how to install platbands on interior doors.

What are the types of platbands?


There is a wide range of platbands on the building materials market different forms. When buying a door, it is important to check whether platbands are included or not.

Typically, the width of the casing is about 7 cm, the height and thickness are 210 cm and 1 cm, respectively.

When installing an interior door with one leaf, you will need to purchase 5 slats, while for a double leaf you will need 6. Two and a half slats are enough to frame the opening on one side.

Telescopic trims


In appearance they are similar to ordinary platbands. The difference is the protrusion that is required for connections. This option can be used if the door thickness is narrower than the wall thickness. A special protrusion is attached to the longitudinal grooves of the end of the door frame.


If you install the platbands correctly, the fasteners will be almost invisible. The design lasts for a long period. Otherwise, if the calculation is made incorrectly, a gap remains. As a result, the design looks ugly.

Decorative design


Platbands that have recently appeared on the building materials market decorative design doors are called capitals.

The material for the platbands is solid wood or MDF. They are distinguished by a variety of shapes and curly ruffles.

After installing such platbands, the door will take on a luxurious, finished look.

Methods of fastening the structure


Often the following are used to install door frames:

  • liquid Nails;
  • fastenings called “beaks”;
  • finishing nails;
  • self-tapping screws

Using finishing nails


This method is considered the most popular, as it has a number of advantages, including simple installation and dismantling if necessary. Even an inexperienced person can attach the structure using simple tips.

To work, you will need copper-plated nails with a narrow head. The nail should fit 2 cm into the door frame. On average, the length of the nail reaches 4 cm.

To carry out the work accurately, you can put points on the platbands along which the fastening will be carried out. The points are placed at an even distance from each other. A distance of 50 cm is considered optimal.

Liquid nails


Liquid nails are sold in tubes or tubes.

Fastening is easy and simple.

  • The product is applied to the platband and pressed for a few seconds. After the time has passed, the bar can be released.
  • The advantages of the material include the fact that fastening is not only easy, but also does not leave marks on the front side of the plank.
  • The disadvantage is the unreliability of fastening.

Fastening with self-tapping screws


This method is increasingly used due to its reliability. Even an inexperienced person can do the job by following simple instructions.

  • If the platbands are made of wood, it is worth choosing self-tapping screws with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 2 cm.
  • Work begins with markings on the bar. They are placed at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Then holes are drilled. This is necessary in order to prevent cracking of the wood during fastening.
  • To make the self-tapping screw invisible, its head must be recessed into the strip. It is better to drill the hole a little first.

Fastening with beaks


The advantages of the method include the attractive appearance of the fastening and the ease of the installation process.

The negative side of the method is that the platbands made of MDF may delaminate during the process of removing the “beak”.

To understand how to properly attach the trim, you need to read the instructions included with the product.

How to get the job done


  1. First of all, the platbands are applied in height to the door in order to correctly measure the required length.
  2. The plank is placed on a horizontal surface, and, using a square, the angle is measured and cut off.
  3. The platband with the cut out corner is applied to the door frame and alignment is performed along the bottom line and edges. It is also necessary to note the height that would correspond to the door frame.
  4. Taking into account the mark made, using a protractor, mark an angle equal to 45º. You need to cut off the excess and put the bar aside for a while.
  5. The same must be done with the other side. It is worth noting that the upper casing is marked last. Work with it is carried out after installing the side strips. This sequence of work will allow you to avoid mistakes when installing platbands and the formation of cracks.
  6. Having cut the strips, you can begin to fasten them. To do this, you need to hammer nails into the door frame and remove their heads with pliers. In this case, the length of the nail for successful fastening of the platband must be at least 5 mm. The distance between nails is 50 cm.
  7. You can ensure optimal adhesion of the door frame to the platband using glue that is applied to the strip. It is important not to overdo it so that the glue does not squeeze out during adhesion.
  8. A platband is applied to the door frame and tapped through a block wrapped in fabric, placing it on nails.
  9. Having nailed the trim on the sides, we begin marking the top strip. The corners are marked by placing a strip on top of the side trims, and the excess is removed. Install in the same way.

Important nuances


  • A nail or screw can be made barely noticeable by using a wax corrector.
  • If the platbands diverge at the joints, finishing nails can correct the situation.
  • Small gaps are repaired with acrylic sealant. A wax corrector will also work if you choose the color.
  • If the platband is installed on an interior door, its height should exceed the height of the opening by 10 cm.

Considering simple rules, many people can do the work with their own hands.

Video

This video shows how to install door frames:

Photo