How to make a knife at home. Do-it-yourself quality hunting knife

Hello fishermen and hunters, I present to your attention a strong, beautiful, high-quality knife that you can make with your own hands. This knife will be an excellent friend for you when hiking, hunting, fishing and other similar activities. Despite the fact that the knife looks very high quality, it is not so difficult to make it yourself. You will need a minimum set of tools for this; grinding and polishing will be the hardest thing to do if you do not have a grinder, a sharpening machine, and so on.

But in order for the knife to be strong and of high quality, you need to choose good steel for it. Unfortunately, the author did not indicate what grade of steel he used. But these days you can buy a blank for a knife of any steel grade. The most important thing is that the steel contains a sufficient amount of carbon for hardening. By the way, good steel is used in old Soviet files, various cutters and other tools. So, let's take a closer look at how to make such a wonderful knife!

Materials and tools used

List of materials:
- carbon steel for the blade;
- wood for linings;
- sheet brass for the handle;
- brass or steel pins;
- epoxy adhesive.

List of tools:
- belt grinder;
- orbital sander;
- grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
- grinder;
- drill or drilling machine;
- drill;
- hammer;
- sandpaper;
- Japanese water stone or other sharpening tool;
- forge furnace and hardening oil.

Knife making process:

Step one. Cut out the main rough profile
To begin, prepare the source material and apply a template to it. You can find a ready-made template on the Internet; for example, there are quite a few of them on Pinterest. We scale the drawing properly and print it on a printer, then cut it out. You can cut a template out of cardboard, it will last for a long time, and you can also hold such a template in your hands and figure out what the future knife will look like.

Next we transfer the template to the workpiece. For convenience, the author painted the “body” of the knife green. If the template is made of paper, you can simply glue it to the workpiece. Let's start cutting, for these purposes the author used an ordinary grinder. We securely fasten the workpiece with a clamp. There shouldn't be any problems with straight lines, but you'll have to try harder with curves. To cut out the bends, we make a series of transverse slits. After this, you can cut out the pieces of metal in sectors. Of course, there will be a lot of uncut metal left, but now it can be easily removed.

Step two. Primary grinding
After cutting, we need to finalize the contour of the blade. For these purposes, we go with a knife to sharpening machine, we remove everything unnecessary. We also walk along the contour on the tape grinding machine. Bends can be easily processed using a drill with the appropriate attachment. A sandpaper attachment works best for this task.

Step three. Forming bevels
This is a very crucial moment in blade processing. We need to form bevels, that is, the sharpening angle of the blade. First, we make markings; for this, the author uses a caliper. You also need to be sure to divide the future blade into two halves, so it will be very convenient for you to grind off the metal on both sides of equal thickness. This line is usually drawn with a drill of the same diameter as the thickness of the blade.

To begin, take a file and apply the end of the bevel to the blade. Well, then we arm ourselves with a grinder with sanding attachment and remove excess metal. When everything is ready, we carry out finer processing on a belt sander. At the end, we go through the bevel with files, sand it with sandpaper and polish it if desired.

Step four. Drilling holes
We drill holes in the handle of the blade for the pins. The wider the handle, the more pins need to be installed. The author decided to install 5 pins. We mark the locations and drill holes. If the hole diameter is large, use a small diameter drill first. If the steel is hardened, you may need a carbide-tipped drill bit to drill into it. It's easier to drill steel if you lubricate the drill bit.

Step five. Tempering the blade
Now the blade can be hardened, for this you will need a forge furnace. In principle, you can simply blow up the coals with a household hairdryer, and the temperature can be more than sufficient. Typically, carbon steel glows yellowish, and with this glow it can be cooled in oil. But all brands are different, as are the hardening methods, you need to remember this.
When the blade is hardened, the metal should not be taken with a file. After this, the metal is usually tempered, otherwise it will be very brittle.

When the blade has cooled, we clean it of oil; they are usually washed under running water using detergents. Next, the author polished the blade with fine sandpaper until it was shiny.

Step six. Let's move on to making the handle
The author has a combined handle; it consists of brass and wooden linings. First, let's start with the brass plates, for this we will need sheet brass, from which we cut out four parts for the front and back of the handle. Brass is cut perfectly with a grinder. Next, drill holes for the pins in the pads, and now you can install them on the handle. This will allow the products to be adjusted to the shape of the handle. You will need brass pins; eventually they will become one with the linings. The pins should be of such a diameter that they enter the material with little effort. After installing the pins, they need to be riveted.

Next, you can proceed to the wooden overlays; to do this, find boards of suitable thickness. We cut the boards to the required length and drill holes for the pins. We install the pads themselves with epoxy glue, this is the key to their reliable fastening. As for the pins, the author decided to use steel pins for these purposes; ordinary nails are suitable for such purposes. There is no need to rivet these pins, since we have everything on glue. Tighten the pads with clamps and let the glue dry completely.

Step seven. Sanding the handle
When the glue dries, the handle can be processed. To do this, first cut the pins; this can be done with a hacksaw or file. Next, we go to the grinding machine and grind the planes, everything should be on the same level. You can also sand the handle to some extent along the contour.

Now we will have those places where we could not get to with a grinder. To process them, the author uses a drill. A sandpaper attachment works well for this task.

Step eight. Finishing
Finally, we put a polishing attachment on the drill and polish the brass to a golden shine. Similarly, we pass this nozzle along the contour. If some areas cannot be polished, they still need to be finished by hand with very fine sandpaper. Well, then polish the wooden part or the entire knife with a polishing machine, if desired. When the pen is ready, apply oil to it. This will protect the wood from moisture and the brass will not oxidize.

The selection of knives in stores is quite large. Kitchen, shoe, hunting, pocket - the list can be continued for a very long time. But there are situations when there is no cutting object at hand, but you desperately need it. For example, travel is always full of surprises; any thing can end up at the bottom of an abyss or lake. Or maybe you need a cutting tool for some special work? In short, there are not so few situations when such a homemade product may be needed. What is the best way to make a knife? We will now talk about this, as well as how best to do it in this or that case.

Where will you do it?

The need to make a cutting tool can arise anywhere:

• Houses:
• in the country;
• on a hike.

At home, as a rule, they make knives for some special work, as well as for gifts or collections. If you are not doing this professionally, then special equipment you don't have one yet. But there may be a lot of suitable ones in the tool cabinet.

There will probably be a lot of useful things at the dacha. Most likely, there is almost everything there - a broken hacksaw, old file etc. If you are left without a knife on a hike, you will have to think and carefully look around. Oddly enough, the answer to the question of how to forge and make a good knife or blade from start to finish with your own hands may be right in front of you.

What makes a good knife?

What can a knife be made from? The material for making a knife must be hard enough and hold an edge well. Suitable for this:

• metals;
• stone;
• glass;
• mollusk shells;
• animal bones;
• tree.

Metal

Not just any metal is suitable. So what metal is best to make a knife from?

• It is unlikely that you would think of messing around with aluminum - with such a knife you will suffer more than you will be able to work.
• The most suitable material is steel, preferably stainless.
• Perfect option– hardened, but it depends on your luck.

Important! At home you can do the heat treatment yourself, but on a hike it’s unlikely.

Stone, glass, shells

On a hike, you will certainly find stones that can cause sharp chips:

• obsidian;
• slate;
• quartzite.

Important! These are layered materials, and the chips when separating the layers are quite sharp.

In the places you visit, it’s not difficult to find a suitable shard of glass - here’s a simple solution for what to make a knife out of. On the banks of rivers there are shells of mollusks - for example, toothless. When they delaminate, they also give sharp chips, which makes it possible to make a good, albeit small, blade.

In case of urgent need, even a tree will do - though wooden knife Suitable for small kitchen work only.

Bone blade

Bone is an ancient material for making knives. In many regions of our planet such tools are still used. To make a blade in the absence of sandpaper, stencils and other useful things, you only need a few stones. One of them should be rough enough to sharpen the edge of the bone. The other two are necessary to give the workpiece a more or less suitable shape.

What is the handle made of?

The handle is an important part of any tool. Convenience and safety depend on it. It can be made from different materials:

• plastic;
• wood;
• ropes;
• wire.

Plastic

At home, the ideal material for a metal or glass knife– epoxy. However, hardware and construction stores now sell a variety of compounds that, when hardened, turn into beautiful and durable plastic. It is quite possible that you have some left over after renovating your apartment or building a summer house.

Tree

Wooden overlays are a traditional way to design a handle. The handle can be given any shape, it is comfortable, does not heat up and is easy to attach.

Important! Many nations have knives with wicker handles. You can braid with cord or coated wire.

Homemade rope

It is possible that a traveler who finds himself without a knife on a desert island or even just on a long hike has lost his rope. There's nothing you can do, you'll have to get out of the situation. A rope can be made, for example, from nettles. It has fairly long fibers:

1. Remove the skin from the stem.
2. Collect the fibers and dry them (for example, by a fire or just in the sun).
3. Remember fiber.
4. Then all that remains is to weave a rope from the “threads” - you don’t need much for a knife, half a meter will be enough - the shank is braided with a ready-made rope.

What metal is best to make a knife from?

Despite the abundance suitable materials, the best knives are still made of metal. This was understood in ancient times, when they learned to process iron. And now the vast majority of cutting tools are made of steel. Suitable for a homemade knife:

• blade from a hacksaw for metal;
• broken saw;
• old file (preferably Soviet);

Important! The ideal option is a hacksaw blade for metal. This is the simplest material, which, moreover, does not require hardening and tempering.

Good DIY knife

To make a small knife with your own hands that does not need hardening, in addition to hacksaw blade, you will need:

• sketch;
• marker;
• epoxy or other material for the handle;
• rivets;
• hammer;
• emery wheel;
• center punch;
• drill.

Sketch

Any work begins with an idea. A homemade knife in this sense is no exception. First you need to make a sketch. You can simply draw it, but it is much easier to find a suitable picture (so that the blade is no wider than the hacksaw blade) and print it on paper with a self-adhesive layer.

Important! The method of transferring it to the blade depends on the material on which your sketch is made.

Option 1:

1. Place the cut-out image of the blade with the shank on the hacksaw blade.
2. Circle with a marker.
3. Grind along the contour using sandpaper - at this stage it is not necessary to maintain extreme precision; the processing can be quite rough.

Option 2

In this case, the stencil is cut out, pasted onto the canvas, after which the workpiece is ground using sandpaper.

Lever

The handle needs to be made before finishing. The workpiece should be comfortable to hold.

Plastic

The easiest option is to fill it with epoxy according to the method of application indicated on the package:

1. Let the plastic harden.
2. Sand it with sandpaper.
3. Sand it down.

Wooden handle

The wooden handle consists of two identical plates, between which the shank is inserted. First of all you need to cut 2 wooden blanks, absolutely identical. You don’t have to do the final processing yet - it’s important that they just match exactly in shape.

The entire structure is held on by two rivets, for which you need to make holes:

1. Make marks for rivets on the wooden blanks and the shank - when you assemble the handle, you should have through holes.
2. Use a drill to drill holes.

The rivets themselves are best made from copper tube from the heat exchanger of an old refrigerator:

1. Cut 2 pieces of copper tube - the length is equal to the width of the intended handle (2 layers of wood + a layer of metal) with a small allowance for riveting.
2. Place the wooden pieces together, placing the shank in the middle.
3. Insert the rivet so that it protrudes slightly above the holes on both sides.
4. Lightly rivet the edges using a center punch to slightly widen the ends.
5. Rivet the ends with a hammer (on a metal plate).

Wire or rope handle

If you know how to weave, it will not be difficult for you to make a handle from wire (insulated) or rope. You can also use a leather cord.

Important! Any type of weaving is suitable, making it possible to obtain a three-dimensional object. For example, macrame.

You can also make a temporary handle, which is extremely simple. To do this, just wrap the shank with electrical tape.

Blade finishing

Once the handle is ready, you can begin final finishing and sharpening the blade. This is done on an emery wheel. The process continues until you are satisfied with the shape of the knife.

Homemade knife with hardening

To make such a knife with your own hands, you will need a file.

Important! It is best to take an old Soviet one - cheap Chinese models, which most often break, almost always use low-quality steel.

Base material

The file should have a width of 30-40 mm and a rectangular or diamond-shaped cross-section. The second option is preferable - the knife will be more durable.

Tools

Prepare other materials and tools. You need:

Making a knife with your own hands

Start work in the same way as when making a knife without hardening, that is, prepare a sketch, cut out the blade and tang. Then proceed like this:

1. Clamp the workpiece in a vice.
2. Pre-sharpen with a file.
3. Sand the surface of the workpiece with a grinder on a grinding wheel.

Hardening

An important point is hardening.

Important! This procedure is necessary because files are usually made of carbon steel, a rather brittle material.

We do the work:

1. Place the workpiece in a roasting pan with burning coals - the coals should completely cover it.
2. Leave for 20 minutes.
3. Remove the workpiece and let it cool completely.
4. Place the workpiece in the oven.
5. Preheat oven to maximum temperature.
6. Set a timer for 60 minutes.
7. After keeping the future knife in the oven for an hour, turn off the heat and let the entire system cool completely.
8. Repeat the procedure.

Hardening with heat shield

In fact, the ideal temperature for hardening is 700º. But it can only be achieved in the forge - neither gas stove, nor a Russian stove produces such heat. However, a way out can always be found. The space above the workpiece can be heated almost to the desired level if a heat shield is built. It's just thick metal plate larger than a file and rising 1 cm above it:

1. Place the file on a baking sheet.
2. Place several nuts around the perimeter of the workpiece.
3. Place a thick sheet of metal (such as a small cast iron skillet) over the nuts.

It is very convenient to heat metal in an oven with a transparent door. If you see that the metal has become an even cherry color, it means the process is underway Right. You can perform hardening without a stage with coals, just in the oven. But then you will need to keep it at maximum for at least four hours. In this case, the metal should cool down simultaneously with the oven, that is, there is no need to remove the workpiece.

Important! You can use table salt as an indicator - as soon as it starts to melt, this will mean that you have achieved the desired temperature.

Hardening in a furnace followed by tempering

An oven is still not the most convenient device for hardening metals. This is an urban option. It is much better if you have a Russian stove. In this case, the heat shield is installed in exactly the same way as in the previous case, but the metal can not only be hardened, but also tempered, which, naturally, will improve the quality of the future product.

Important! You can use a magnet as an indicator. It naturally reacts to cold steel. As it heats up, it reacts less and less, and at one point it stops doing so altogether. Then you need to take the workpiece with pliers and put it in a bucket of cold water. And you will have a knife made of the best steel you can think of. This material leaves scratches on the glass.

To prevent the blade from rusting

A good knife should not rust. In order to avoid corrosion, the workpiece must be treated in ferric chloride. A gray matte film is formed.

Ferric chloride is not always available, but can be substituted:

• vinegar;
• raw potatoes.

The blade is dipped in acetic acid and simply rubbed with raw potatoes. The effect will be the same as when treated with ferric chloride.

Further actions

After the blade has been hardened, you can begin making the handle. It is done in exactly the same way as in the previous case. As a last resort, you should make a temporary handle so that you can safely pick up the workpiece without fear of injury:

1. Clean the workpiece.
2. Do final sanding.
3. Sharpen the blade using sandpaper.

DIY glass knife

Making cutting tools from glass is not a very pleasant task, but sometimes it is necessary, for example, in hiking conditions. You will need:

• a suitable piece of window glass;
• sharpening stone;
• rope or duct tape.

Important! Window glass If necessary, you can replace it with a bottle one. The main thing is that there is a long piece with a more or less even edge. It is better to immediately remove chips that are too protruding by placing the workpiece on a large flat stone and working with a smaller stone.

Once you have a blank of approximately the right shape in your hands, make a handle. This is especially necessary when working with glass. You can simply wrap the shank with something. Do the final sharpening on a flat, rough stone. But in any case, this tool can be used more like a scraper, although it can also cut meat, vegetables, etc.

Glass knife at home

At home you can make the most from glass a real masterpiece, which will both cut and decorate, for example, the kitchen. A product made of colored glass will look especially impressive:

1. Make a sketch - you can just do it on a sheet of paper.
2. Place a piece of glass on the paper.
3. Cut along the contour with a glass cutter.
4. Make a handle from transparent plastic and sand it.

Such a knife does not need sharpening or polishing if you just cut it fairly evenly.

Now you know what is best to make a knife from in any conditions, how to do it, so in any unforeseen situation you will not be left without cutting tool. And perhaps, using the tips and instructions from this article, you will begin to create real decorative masterpieces. And if so, we wish you creative success!

We can no longer imagine our life without a knife: housewives, hunters, and military personnel use it. Yes, almost everything, everywhere! Finding a good knife on the market is quite difficult, and custom-made models are very expensive. But you can always do it on your own. In today's review by the editors of the online magazine HouseChief, we will tell you how to make a knife with your own hands at home, what materials you will need for this, and photos, sketches, videos and step-by-step instruction will make our task much easier.

Who wouldn't want to be the owner of such a beauty?
PHOTO: nevseoboi.com.ua

Read in the article

A little history of knives

The first knives can be considered scrapers made from animal bones or stones, made by primitive people. These weapons were good for those times, but a lot of effort was spent on their manufacture. In addition, they were either fragile or quickly dull. After man mastered primitive metalworking, knives and weapons began to be made from bronze and copper. With the development of technology, these metals were replaced by iron and steel. This made it possible to make blades stronger and more durable. The design and shape of knives, daggers, sabers and other piercing and cutting tools also diversified.

Ancient ancestor of the modern knife
PHOTO: pics.meshok.net

Bronze Age dagger
PHOTO: newslab.ru
Modern knife

Components of a knife

Knives can have very different purposes, shapes and designs, but they all have common elements. The most important of them are the blade, shank or handle. In turn, the blade is divided into: tip or toe, butt, cutting edge or blade, heel. The shank consists of a pommel, a stopper and a facing.

Knife structure
PHOTO: ikarp.ru

Advantages of homemade models

The modern market is flooded with a large assortment of the most various knives, but they do not always meet consumer requirements. In addition, often the products of most manufacturers are not of good quality of material and workmanship. You can order a blade of the required quality and shape from a specialist, but such a product will be quite expensive. But, if you are not a passionate collector of bladed weapons, and you are only interested in the practical side of the issue, then you can make a knife with your own hands.

Handmade hunting knives are a collector's dream
PHOTO: tver-ohota.ru

Homemade knives made with your own hands at home have a number of advantages:

• the type of blade matches the needs of the owner;
• combining all necessary properties and features;
• independent selection of a suitable steel grade;
• hardening and tempering of metal to increase strength characteristics;
• production for anatomical features owner;
• selection of blade and handle design in accordance with your own ideas about the aesthetics of a knife;
• the ability to prevent the flaws present in consumer goods models.

In homemade knives, the handle is made to match the anatomical features of the owner’s hand
PHOTO: avatars.mds.yandex.net

What can you make a knife from at home?

The purpose and design of the knife largely determines the material for its manufacture. Blades made of damask and Damascus steel were considered the best, but not even everyone can make it experienced master blacksmithing You can purchase a strip of high-quality metal, but its price can be quite high.

In order to make a knife with your own hands at home, they most often use old files, shock-absorbing springs, steel strips or pieces circular saws. This is the most affordable option, since only mechanical processing is required to make the blade. You can also make a knife from wood, plastic or plexiglass, but we’ll talk about that below.

Homemade knife from a file
PHOTO: i.pinimg.com
Steel spring knife
PHOTO: 3.bp.blogspot.com
Preparation of a blade from a fragment of a hacksaw blade
PHOTO: pohod-lifehack.ru

Types, features and drawings for DIY knives

There are many types of knives with different applications. Its design, shape, material for manufacturing, strength characteristics and much more depend on the scope of application of the blade. Let's consider the main types and sketches of knives for self-production, depending on their purpose.

There are a lot of types of knives, so it’s difficult to choose the right one.

Hunting knives

This is probably the most ancient and sought-after type of bladed weapon. Hunting knives were used to fight with wild beast and cutting up the spoils. High demands have always been placed on them:

• ease of use;
• steel must be high quality, wear-resistant and long time maintain sharpness. The best, albeit expensive, option is Damascus steel or damask steel;
• the handle is made only from durable wood;
• there is no need for a large guard that interferes with cutting the carcass;
• optimal parameters: length and width of the blade - 100-140×30 mm, spine - 3-4 mm, and steel hardness of at least 58 HRC.

All these characteristics must be taken into account when making hunting knife with your own hands. Hunting blades are often the pride of the owner. They are decorated with thematic scenes, patterns, and the handle is made from the bones of wild animals. Some hunters collect knife collections.

Some hunting knives can be called a work of art
PHOTO: rusknife.com
Creating a sketch and drawing is one of the main stages of making a knife

The simplest drawing with dimensions
PHOTO: rusknife.com

Watch a video on how to make a hunting knife with your own hands at home.

Kitchen knives

A knife is a must-have item for any kitchen. It is used by both housewives and chefs of famous restaurants. To perform everyday tasks, 3 knives are enough, but there are sets of more than 10 items, each of which is designed for a specific job: cutting vegetables, meat, bread, etc.

For the manufacture of kitchen blades, metal was initially used, which had certain requirements. It must be durable, not oxidize and suitable for home sharpening. Modern knives are now made from ceramic. Such models are distinguished by high hardness and retain their factory sharpening for a long time, but they are quite fragile and can break if dropped on ceramic tiles or cement surface. The lining of the handle of home kitchen knives is mainly made of plastic, but durable hardwood is also used.

Types of kitchen knives
PHOTO: aggweb.ru
A kitchen “troika” from a famous brand is quite expensive
PHOTO: img.best-kitchen.ru
DIY kitchen knives
PHOTO: i.pinimg.com

Knives for tourism and survival

On a hiking trip or fishing trip you can’t do without good knife. When going into nature, you often have to deal with various problems that a high-quality, properly selected blade can help solve. A good camping knife is:

• the ability to easily chop branches of various thicknesses, cut slings and ropes;
• necessarily a fixed blade;
• wide blade and thick handle;
• the blade must be made of soft of stainless steel for ease of sharpening in field conditions;
• The handle is made of plastic, rubberized and ribbed to prevent slipping.

Types of tourist knives
PHOTO: rusknife.com

Survival knives are derived from tourist models. They are additionally equipped with special devices (multi-tools), which should help a person in extreme conditions. However, often due to the pursuit of maximum versatility, the quality of the product suffers.

Knives for survival in extreme conditions
PHOTO: outlivetheoutbreak.com

Combat knives

A combat knife is considered to be a knife designed to defeat an enemy in hand-to-hand combat, and is in service in armies. different countries. In addition to performing the main task, such blades can be used for digging, cutting wire fences, cutting branches, etc. Distinctive features of knives used by the military are:

• double-sided or one-and-a-half sharpening;
• oval cross-section of the handle;
• the length of the entire product is 220-320 mm;
• the tip is in line with the butt of the blade and handle;
• reinforced guard;
• easy to remove with one hand;
• anti-glare coating.

Series of combat knives
PHOTO: unpictures.ru

Stages of making a knife with your own hands

Making a knife with your own hands is not a problem. You don't even need many tools to do this. To create a simple blade you will need a strip of steel, a hacksaw and a file. But more on that later, and now let’s look at the stages of making a knife with your own hands, drawings and materials.

Making a knife at home is not that difficult, unless you want a forged model
PHOTO: cdn3.hype.ru

Sketches and drawings

Having decided to make a practical and beautiful knife with your own hands, you first need to decide on its purpose: tourism, hunting or for the kitchen. This largely determines the choice of blade shape, design and material. Next, a sketch of the knife is made as you imagine it. Based on it, a drawing with dimensions is created. If you do not have artistic talents or knowledge of weapons, but really want to make a blade, then you can use ready-made ideas from the Internet. The photo shows drawings and shapes of knives.

Selecting a steel blank for a knife

Having decided on the type of knife, making a sketch and drawing, you can proceed to choosing a workpiece. Different grades of steel are used to make blades. The choice depends on the purpose of the knife:

1. 95Х18. The most popular and widespread grade of steel for making blades. Its advantage is its high strength and corrosion resistance even with a high hardness of 64 HRC. After heat treatment of the workpiece to a value of 62 HRC, the cutting edge of the blade will be almost completely protected from chipping due to impacts on a hard surface.
2. 50Х14МФ. Another popular grade of steel used for the production of blades. This is one of the best materials, from which medical scalpels are made. The brand provides hardness up to 58 HRC and long-term sharpness retention.
3. X12MF. This grade of steel has good impact toughness and, after appropriate heat treatment, acquires a hardness of up to 62 HRC. The blade of the blade retains its sharpening well; it is not fragile, but is susceptible to corrosion. Knives made from this alloy require careful care.
4. HVG. A grade of steel that is classified as a tool steel and has good hardness and excellent impact toughness, which allows the blade not to break under serious impacts.
5. 50HGA. Spring steel, which is an excellent material for knives used in extreme conditions and under heavy loads. The disadvantage is susceptibility to corrosion.
6. 40Х13. Also refers to spring steel, but, unlike the previous brand, it is not subject to corrosion. Often used to make knives, but the cutting edge quickly becomes dull.

The main thing is to choose the right steel
PHOTO: i0.wp.com

Watch the video on choosing steel for a knife:

How knives are made

After the type of knife has been chosen, a sketch has been made, a drawing has been made, and steel of the required grade has been purchased, you can begin to manufacture the blade. Based on the sketch, you need to make a template from thick cardboard or plywood. The last option is good if you plan to make more than one knife. Now that everything is ready, you can start making the blade.

A good, correct template is half the battle done
PHOTO: i.pinimg.com

How to make a blade

The knife blade is made in two stages: mechanical and heat treatment. In some cases, heat treatment of the metal is impossible, and this worsens quality characteristics products. First, you need to apply a template to the workpiece and trace the outline of the future knife. IN industrial scale blades are cut using a laser, gas cutter or milling machine. At home, the knife can be cut along the contour using a hacksaw or a grinder with cutting disc. Before required sizes The blade is finished on an emery machine. The boundaries of the blade are drawn on it, and the initial rough sharpening is performed.

Machining of the workpiece
PHOTO: i.ytimg.com

After the workpiece has been given the desired shape, it is recommended to quench and temper the metal in accordance with the technology specified in metalworking reference books. If it is not possible to control the temperature using special equipment, then you can navigate by the color of the heat, but in this case you will need the help of an experienced specialist. Properly carried out hardening and tempering of the metal will significantly increase the strength characteristics of the knife.

Hardening the blade increases its strength characteristics
PHOTO: tytmaster.ru

How to make a handle for a knife

After the blade is ready, the question arises: what and how to make a handle for the knife. The handle can be overhead or attached, made of plastic or durable wood. The simplest handle is a shank wrapped in a strip of durable thick leather. The overhead handle is made of two dies of plastic or wood, which are attached to the shank using rivets inserted in advance. drilled holes. After fixing the cladding, use sandpaper or sanding paper of different grain sizes to bring the handle to the desired shape and smoothness.

The video shows how to make a knife handle:

Making a handle for a knife with your own hands is not so difficult

Watch the video on how to make a knife with your own hands at home:

How to make a knife from wood

We looked at how steel blades are made, and now we will learn about how to make a wooden knife. As in the case of a steel knife, you need to prepare a template, select a piece of board made of durable wood and a tool. You will need a jigsaw or a wood saw, a grinder or a set of sandpaper of various grits.

Minimum set for making a wooden knife
PHOTO: eastwoodscarpentry.co.uk

Image	Process description
	To begin, take a piece of board made of durable and hard wood. Draw the outline of the future knife by hand or using a template
	Using a machine, using a jigsaw or a hacksaw, we cut out the knife blank
	We also draw the contour of the profile onto the narrow part. We remove everything unnecessary
	You should get a knife like this. But it is still, so to speak, “raw”
	Grinding using a grinder with a special disc
	You can round the edge of the handle using a hand router
	We sharpen the blade on a belt sander. This work must be done very carefully, since with strong pressure or incorrect movement the workpiece can easily be damaged. Then you'll have to start over
	Let's polish again
	Cover the knife with liquid metal and leave to dry for at least 12 hours. Anyone who wants can skip this step.
	After the liquid metal has dried, grind the workpiece again
	After sanding, use mineral oil.
	Use a swab to saturate the knife well with mineral oil.
	It should look like in the photo
	And, of course, we test the knife

Such a wooden knife, of course, will not replace a full-fledged metal kitchen model, but it can easily cut vegetables, fruits, cake, cheese or butter.

How to make a knife sheath with your own hands

A sheath is a mandatory attribute of any blade, with the exception of a household one. kitchen knife. They protect it from moisture, dirt, kinks, and dullness, protecting the owner from accidental injury. The sheath can be made of plastic, leather or wood, or there can be combined models. Most knives are sold with a protective sheath, but for homemade blades you will have to create a sheath yourself.

A good sheath is not only to protect the blade, but also to decorate it
PHOTO: travelnews24.ru

The video shows step by step process making leather sheaths with larch inserts. After watching this video, you will understand that there is nothing difficult in this: you just need diligence, attentiveness and patience.

When hearing the word knife, a person imagines two pictures. Housewife chopping kitchen tool vegetables for salad, and a hunter making his way through the thicket, with the handle of a bladed weapon sticking out of his belt in his sheath. Edged weapons have always been of interest to men. The designer knives of the production masters fascinate with their appearance and attract with a silent force that is felt in every bend of the steel.

The price of weapons ranges from 7 to 22 thousand rubles. Below we will tell you how to make a knife at home.

History of development from stone to modern

Man first began to use a knife immediately after he stopped walking on all fours and began to get food with improvised means. The tools that people began to use for hunting and farming were fragments of bones or stones. The first ones were much easier to make, due to the fragility of the animal’s bones, but such products dulled unusually quickly, and not all components of the skeleton were suitable for the role of a sharp instrument.

To make a knife from stone, primitive man had to put in a lot of effort. However, the laboriousness of the process was compensated by its relative strength and the ability to sharpen the edge of a stone blade. Another advantage of a stone knife over a bone one was the durability of the tool. Bone weapons were fragile and often broke during hunting, so this type gradually passed into economic use and construction.

At the time of human mastery of metalworking, edged weapons began to be made from bronze and copper. They were significantly superior to stone samples in terms of durability. The blades were made from a single piece of metal. Swords, daggers, and knives of those times became indispensable weapons for the soldiers of the Roman Empire, with the help of which troops conquered new territories.

The Iron Age is a century of experiments and new technologies. Knives purchased different shape and length, at this time a sickle-shaped blade and a wave-shaped blade were invented. In Rus' at that time, edged weapons were included in the attributes of the nobility and merchants. The Vikings used wood to make sword hilts so that the steel, frozen in the cold, would not burn the hand.

In the Middle Ages, people began to use steel - an alloy of iron and carbon - in the production of swords. These times were considered bloody; history knows many large-scale wars and battles. As a result, the emphasis in forges was not on quality, but on quantity. And in comparison with ancient times, the characteristics of the samples of edged weapons of the Middle Ages were much inferior to the ancient prototypes.

Although historians cite the example of the daggers of medieval Arabs. Some of the daggers of Arab sheikhs that have survived to this day have retained their cutting properties, despite the passing of centuries.

During the Renaissance, the experience of blacksmiths, passed down from generation to generation, along with new technologies of that time, resulted in steel cutting products that were quite High Quality. But just at this time, firearms began to be used in battles, and interest in blades began to gradually fade away.

During the Industrial Revolution, the production of bladed weapons became widespread, moving from handicraft to factory production.

In factories, the manufacturability of the process reduces costs, which means the product becomes cheaper and is available to almost everyone. Soon, folding knives and world-famous centers for their production appeared - Russian Zlatoust, English Sheffield, German Solingen and Swedish Eksilstun.

Components

At first glance, everything is quite simple, however, the knife includes many elements. The handle and blade are the two main components. The tip, or toe of the blade is called its front point. The blade (cutting edge) is considered to be the sharpened side; it is made smooth, sometimes closer to the handle with a sawtooth shape.

There are knives where the sawtooth component is on the butt. The butt is the opposite side of the blade. Slopes are called planes that taper towards the sharpened part of the blade. The part that is attached to the handle and not sharpened is the heel of the blade.

The handle is that part of it that a person clasps with his hand when handling. A partition, or any other barrier, is built into the front of the handle, designed to protect the hand from slipping onto the sharpened part of the blade. The handle is attached to the tail of the blade.
For production use different materials.

The easiest way is to take scraps of stainless steel. It doesn’t matter what this fragment was before, a pan, a pipe or furniture.

Anything will do. However, do not expect that such a blade will retain its cutting properties for a long time; most likely, you will have to sharpen it after any work.

High-speed steel, which is used in the production of hacksaws and saws, gives the blade good cutting properties, while maintaining an edge for a long time. However, a significant disadvantage of this raw material is fragility and susceptibility to rust.

A good product can be made from plane blades. The material is first heated to a hot temperature, and after cooling in air, it is shaped with a hacksaw and ground with a file, or abrasive wheels. At the end of manufacturing, edged weapons are hardened in water or oil. The disadvantage is the same - they rust very quickly.

But after each job, it’s enough to wipe it well, lubricate it with a special lubricant, and it will serve you faithfully for decades, keeping both its qualities and its appearance unchanged.

Making a cutting product from an ordinary file is simple; it does not require the use of complex tools. The file is heated, cooled in air, and the workpiece is processed with another file. Sandpaper or other abrasive is used to remove excess elements from the surface.

In order to obtain a high-quality knife at the end, proper temperature treatment and turning are necessary. Then it needs to be hardened again. You can not harden the entire knife, but only its cutting edge, but this is somewhat more complicated, of course.

If you need a small (penknife) knife, a piece of hacksaw blade will do; you just need to sharpen it and make a handle; some people simply wrap it with electrical tape. It’s not very aesthetically pleasing, but it’s quick and doesn’t hurt if it’s lost.

How comfortable it is to use a knife depends on the design of the handle, and therefore this element is not inferior in importance to the blade. If the product is a souvenir, the handle is decorative. Wrapping a cord around the tail section is a simple way to make a handle. This type of winding is used mainly on tactical and throwing knives.

Other manufacturers use bones and animal horns or wood to create knife handles. For this, pear, oak, walnut, ash, maple and apple are used. Another good resource is birch bark. After processing, the handle becomes grooved and pleasant to touch. And when in use, it sits securely in the palm of your hand without slipping, even if the handle is stained with animal blood or fish scales.

Leather sheaths are universal and reliable, because the knife is held in them by friction, which allows you not to be afraid of losing the weapon even during active physical activity. Sheaths woven from thick cord are also widely used.

But they are more suitable for throwing ones, they are heavy, and usually blunt, except for the toe, of course. The lace cannot provide sufficient friction force, and their use for weapons with a thinner blade than tactical ones is not recommended.

Knife making process

Making a knife at home does not require special skills or expensive equipment. You should start by preparing a product template. The Internet is replete with a variety of stencils, download the one you like and print it. If you wish, you can use your imagination and draw a sketch of the sample yourself. When the design is ready, cut it out and glue it onto a piece of metal. Or simply trace along the outline with a waterproof marker.

The most difficult thing is to cut out a sample of the future knife. Perfect for comfortable work band saw for cutting metal. If there is none, then use a hacksaw, but then get ready for a very labor-intensive process and be patient.

Drill holes in the tail of the workpiece; they are intended for the pins that will hold the handle structure. For beauty, some craftsmen drill several holes, each of which corresponds to the thickness of the selected pins. In order for the handle to fit firmly to the shank, you need to drill at least two holes.

After working with a file, remove unevenness and roughness from the workpiece after the drill, and also sand rough edges. Using a grinding machine you can bring the workpiece to perfect condition. Do not allow the future knife to overheat excessively. And do not forget to wear a respirator and safety glasses when performing work that will protect against metal dust.

Take a responsible approach to the formation of bevels. Because the cutting quality and future ease of sharpening depend on the angle at which sharpening will be done. If you want the workpiece to cut well, make the blade thin. If this product is for chopping (a machete, for example), then a thick one is more suitable. Don't go overboard with subtlety.

Otherwise, when heated, the blade will overheat, and hardening may not work. It is better to form the bevels manually. To do this correctly, first draw a line of bevels, and then, focusing on it, start grinding the metal with a grinder.

Heating steel will make it elastic. Depending on the type of steel, its hardening temperature is selected. Use a magnet to help you know when to stop heating. When it stops being attracted to the metal, it means the workpiece has heated up enough and should be cooled.

Usually cooled in oil, rarely in air or water. It all depends on the grade of steel you used for your product. But this is your knife, you can experiment if the brand is unknown.

After the steel has cooled, place the product in an oven preheated to 200 degrees and leave to warm up for one hour. The knife should cool down with it; you cannot pull it out ahead of time. Polish the metal of the product to a mirror shine, having previously cleared away multiple contaminants that will appear after quenching the steel in oil.

Drill holes in the handle halves prepared in advance that are the same size as the holes in the shank. Install them, clamp them in a vice, and drive in the pins. Head to the sander again. This time the work will happen with the handle. Set the shape that will be comfortable for use.

After the machine, go over the handle with sandpaper to remove burrs and small irregularities.

The method of making a knife is given for theoretical reference. Article of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation No. 223, part 3 prohibits the creation and use of homemade products falling under the term "edged weapons". This could result in a prison sentence of up to two years. It is advisable to read this article, because not all knives are punishable.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make a knife with your own hands at home. You will have a useful time and try yourself in the role of a master in the production of edged weapons or just a household item.

Especially if you have the opportunity to use good equipment when creating a product. Perhaps you will discover a talent for this art.

But do not forget about criminal liability and use only within the limits Russian legislation. A little patience, attentiveness and pedantry will help in the production of a high-quality knife that will last for many years.

Video

Warning!
This article was written solely in the interests of the author to convey information to people about how knives are made, what they are like and what they can be used for. That the right knife can become your friend and comrade who will help you out more than once.
If you, dear readers, decide to make a knife with your own hands, then keep in mind that in the Russian Federation there is a law: Article 222 of the Criminal Code, Part 4 and Article 223 of the Criminal Code, Part 4. The illegal sale and manufacture of bladed weapons is a criminal offense and any product must be certified. And if you end up with such a product before the lawyers, such excuses as “I didn’t know” will not save you. (It’s better to say “I found it, I’m bringing it to you.” And mentally say goodbye to your favorite product.)
Many people, having made a knife exclusively, for self-educational reasons, found themselves in trouble with the law. Keep this in mind.

Types of steel for knives

What is steel? Steel is iron with various additives ( chemical composition alloy) quite simply iron containing carbon. There are three layers of laminated steel from different grades. There is a Damascus sandwich made of hundreds of layers of steel, two or three grades of steel, more often than two.
What steel to choose for a knife and where to get it?
This table shows the most suitable steels for making knives that you can find at your fingertips.

steel grade	Description	Where to find
A-2	Holds an edge perfectly. Self-hardening steel. Very often used in the manufacture of combat knives. Subject to corrosion.	Regular bolts
L-6	Very durable and holds an edge well. If you need strength in a knife, this is it. Subject to corrosion An excellent material for making a fishing fillet knife.	Band saw blade
5160	Highly professional grade steel. Holds an edge well and is susceptible to corrosion.	Springs for cars and tractors.
52100	It is similar to grade 5160 and differs in carbon content, as indicated by the number 100 (contains about 1% carbon). This steel is widely used in the manufacture of hunting knives. subject to corrosion.	Bearings
R6M5	The best steel for making alloy steel knives. Holds an edge perfectly, cuts very well, chops bone.	Pendulum saw blade for metal. Thickness 2mm. Disc cutter for metal. Thickness 5 mm.
154CM or ATS-34 (ATS-34)	The most popular stainless steel for making knives.	To order: price approximately 3500 rubles per strip 3x25x250

Blade shapes.

Combat or tactical knife and its features.

Handle of a combat knife.

An extremely negative characteristic of a knife handle is round section. Because the handle may slide during a fight and the fighter will not be able to control the exact position of the blade. Imagine that a fighter is wielding a knife in slush conditions, or worse, bloodied. So when choosing a knife, pay attention to the handle: it should be oval, have special linings and fit well in your hand.

Sharpening.

A combat knife is most effective when it has a double-sided sharpening or one-and-a-half. During a fight, a fighter can use both sides of the blade without turning it over.\

Blade width.

Also, for a combat knife, the width of the blade is very important, which should be at least 2.5 centimeters. This primarily promotes wide wounds; secondly, wide bevels reduce the sharpening angle, which is responsible for cutting properties.

Blade shape.

The importance of blade shape should not be overlooked. The optimal shape is a leaf shape or a leaf-shaped shape, and if it is made with differential sharpening, plus serrated sharpening plays a good role in combat knives.

Limiter.

Any combat knife has a limiter; its function is to keep the hand safe during stabbing strikes. That is, it prevents your hand from slipping onto the blade during a strike.

Knife length.

This is also an important thing in combat knives. Judge for yourself: if the knife is short, then during the strike the vital organs will not be affected, the meaning of a combat knife is lost. A knife that is too long is easy to knock out of your hands, difficult to carry and difficult to hide. So the optimal knife length is 18-30 centimeters.

Blade hardness.

This feature applies not only to combat knives but to all knives in general; if the steel of the blade is not hard enough, it will either break or bend and will not hold an edge and will quickly become dull. In combat knives, it is necessary to overcome the material of special clothing, which has recently been supplied to almost all armies of the world. For example, Warrior 3 equipment has fabric that can withstand shrapnel loads. Judge for yourself what hardness and sharpness the blade should have. According to the standards, it should be no less than 47-55 HRC.

The location of the tip in relation to the axis.

The tip of the knife must be strictly at the level of its axis. Indeed, during a stabbing blow with a knife, all the energy is focused precisely on the edge of the knife, and the displacement from the axis will have a negative impact on the knife; the force is lost and the penetrating ability decreases.

Knife weight.

The optimal weight of a knife is considered to be about 200-300 grams. If the knife is heavy, it will take a lot of effort to use it, and a light one will not produce results when struck.

Center of gravity.

It is important that the center of gravity of the knife is closer to the handle.

Requirements for the sheath.

The sheath should be: light, without fasteners, the knife sheath should be securely fastened in the sheath and not fall out, the sheath should be dark in color. The sheath attachment should not interfere with the fighter’s movement. The knife should be removed from its sheath silently.

Russian combat knives

“Looking through chronicle texts, you can find a lot of evidence that Russian people have been able to use knives in battle since those times. Consider the description of the siege of the city of Kozelsk by Batu Khan. When he entered the city in battle, he was met by townspeople with knives, turned the tide of the battle in their favor, drove the enemy out of the city and slaughtered 4,000 Tatars.” Since those times, little has changed in the Russian spirit and knife. When foreign military personnel consider a knife to be a “weapon of last chance,” that is, during a battle it is the last hope for salvation. For a Russian person, a knife and a bayonet play a completely different role. Shouts of hurray and the point of a bayonet always instilled horror and fear in the enemy.

The first parent of the Russian army combat knife is considered to be the knife (army knife of 1940), (scout knife of 1940). These knives were used by the military who had a machine gun instead of a rifle with a bayonet, and the scouts you know why.
Now you can find new knives made by analogy; they are produced by the AiR company under the product name “Razvedbat” - a hunting one and “Shtrafbat” - a civilian version.
Available in four versions: Airborne Forces, Marines, Border Troops, Special Forces. The difference lies in the emblems of the troops that are printed on the blades and the color of the stripes on the handle.
At the same time, 1940, they began to produce for the NKVD services.
In 1943, the HP-40 knife underwent many changes and Soviet intelligence officers received NR-43. It had a straight guard, a leather sheath, a plastic handle and a metal pommel, which made it possible to use it in many brute force moments (even hammering a nail); the second name of the knife is “Cherry”. The knife was so well designed and thought out that it is still used by some troops.
In 1960, to replace the HP-43 knife, the special service received a silent cartridge firing from the handle with a 7.62 mm caliber bullet. NRS (scout shooting knife). This knife has also undergone changes, becoming which is currently the main combat knife of sabotage brigades. Its sheath is designed in a special way and allows you to cut through wire, the blade, unlike the NRS, has become spear-shaped, and the saw on the butt has become half as long. The cartridge in the handle was replaced with a modernized SP-4.
Soviet paratroopers, at that time were recruited, which were intended to cut the lines of a paratrooper hanging on a tree. The sling cutter was not intended for combat battles, but the military personnel, by sharpening the tip and one side of the saw, repurposed this item into
Since those times, a lot has changed, the government, money, various gadgets have appeared, knives have not stood still either. They were manufactured according to various orders of army and internal military units.
These knives include - this knife was released by Zlatoust by order of SOBR, which exists in three variations: a combat knife, an award knife and a civilian knife.
— designed for law enforcement agencies FSB is available in two types "Vzmakh-1" And "Maestro" the handle of which can be made of various materials."Maestro"— differs in that it is made in anti-reflective design.
Knife "Antiterror"— made for the FSB. The shape of the blade has high penetrating characteristics; the cutting part has a depression, which increases the length of the cutting edge.
Combat knives series. The knives in this series differ from each other in the following ways:
"Katran -1" The underwater combat knife has a one-and-a-half sharpening. The butt has a wave-shaped sharpening; in the root part of the butt there is a hook designed for cutting nets. The sheath is made to be attached to the leg and is made of rubber; all metal parts are coated with black chrome.
"Katran-1-S"- created for ground forces. Made of steel 50X14 MF with anti-reflective treatment.
"Katran -2"— the handle is made of leather.
"Katran-45"- exclusive, specially made for the 45th Airborne Regiment. It has a metal saw on the butt.
– the knife was designed and made by order of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Tatarstan. It has a double-sided sharpening in the root part, the sharpening turns into a serrated one designed for cutting climbing slings, the guard is seven-fold, the handle is made of a set of leather, there is a modification of Shaitan-M (throwing knife) that can withstand up to 3000 throws.
designed and made by order of SOBR for work on the streets and in cramped conditions.
adopted by the FSB
Popular abroad Corsair knife. He fascinated the Germans with his form and performance. The catalogs describe it as one of the best knives in Russia.
A stalker knife or one whose shape resembles a strop cutter modified on the knee by paratroopers. This knife, by the way, is used by the Slovak military.
Development of the Melita-K company, which took the HP-43 as a basis.
This knife was developed by one person together with an applied research center. It was developed for saboteurs, taking into account the specifics of hand-to-hand combat. Tested on animal carcasses. The goal was also to find an optimal knife with a stopping effect when stabbed with a knife.
Knife or K-2. An ideal knife created taking into account all the requirements of our legislation so as not to classify it as a bladed weapon. The tests carried out on this knife are somewhat impressive and I take special pride in the fact that this knife was developed by a Russian person without any large investments. And with all this, the knife surpasses all foreign knives in terms of characteristics and has no analogues in the world.
The knife is designed for ordinary people even for a child. The main purpose of a knife is self-defense.

Popular foreign combat knives

I did not completely write out all the knives that are available abroad; if this is done, the article will be more than tens of thousands of words. You'll just get tired of reading it. And therefore, here are the most popular combat knives that are found abroad.

Bowie knife

Wood processing for knife handle

To process wood you will need sanding paper with a grit of 120-150 to give shape, you can use 40-60 just do not overdo it, for final processing use sanding paper with a grit of 600-800. Prepare a couple of wooden blocks that are comfortable to hold in your hand. Attach a thick rubber plate with a thickness of at least 3 mm to one of the bars. after which you can wrap the sanding paper around the belt and begin sanding the knife handle. You will also use the second block, without rubber, at the junction of the blade guard with the handle (this is done so that there are no differences between the blade and the handle).
These are perhaps the simplest tools that you can adapt without significant expense and begin processing your future handle.
When sanding light-colored wood at the end of the entire work, in order to avoid eating into small particles formed from the sanding paper, it is necessary to use the wet sanding method. The essence of this grinding is constant impregnation linseed oil wood, which not only prevents the absorption of small particles, but also contributes to a brighter highlight of the texture and pattern of the wood. Impregnation with linseed oil should be done every time the sanding paper is changed. At the very end, after sanding, the handle is impregnated with shellac.
If porous wood is being processed, and this can include any root wood, shells may form that the craftsmen simply rub over epoxy glue, having previously mixed with sawdust of the same type of wood.

Birch bark knife handle

One of the popular handles is considered to be a knife handle made of birch bark. It doesn’t look bad, it gives a kind of pattern or texture, so to speak.
The principle of preparing the workpiece is the same almost everywhere: birch bark is harvested and removed from the birch (the birch then dies after a few seasons). Birch bark is cut into even pieces; they are pressed, squeezed, glued together, and after drying they are processed as ordinary tree, a deliberately mounted workpiece on a blade or a special device.
Not long ago I saw an unusual method that speeds up the preparation of a blank for a birch bark handle; I will try to describe it in detail.
One master told how to make a knife handle from birch bark. Having prepared birch bark, he chops small circles from it using. The notch is made from the outer ring of the bearing with the end sharpened on one side. With this notch he stuffs many birch bark circles, after which he uses the same method to knock out a hole in the circles in the center (the center is not specially measured) with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, he places all the prepared birch bark circles about 20cm long. tries to plant side to side, not to turn side to side. Then he clamps it with washers and nuts, stretches it and sends such a workpiece into a pan of boiling water for 4 hours. Every hour you need to take out the workpiece and stretch it as far as possible. After 4 hours of boiling, the workpiece is taken out and dried for 24 hours, and the broaching must be repeated while the nut is stretched. After the birch bark dries, the workpiece is reduced in length by almost half (keep this in mind when making the initial set of circles). After such procedures for cooking and drawing, the workpiece becomes monolithic, which is what was required of it. Now remove the workpiece from the pin, you can place it on the shank of the blade and process it as you please.
Very comfortable and most importantly quick way preparing a handle for a knife from birch bark.
The process of preparing a blank for a knife handle is described above. Then, naturally, according to all the canons, it is necessary to treat it with sanding paper and impregnate it with varnish, as indicated above, in the section on how to prepare a handle for a knife made of wood.

Knife handle made of bone or horn.

This is the most difficult task, making a handle for a knife from bone or horn. In order to make a handle from horn, you need to make a handle from some other material at least a couple of times.
If you are planning to make a handle from horn, then you will need horn naturally, and it must be dried. It usually dries in 0.5 to 2 years. There is also a faster way: it is simply dried in the microwave for 5 minutes for half an hour at maximum power, first allowing it to cool and ventilate. Of course, not the whole horn is dried, but only the blank.
In general, an incorrectly chosen horn can initially cause you a lot of trouble. It can be caught wet, with rotten inside, with cracks. And all this comes up at the most inappropriate moment.
The handle can also be made from hollow bone. The bone cavity can be pre-filled with cold welding or epoxy glue with a pre-prepared filler. The bone is also easily deformed under the press; it must first be boiled for 30 minutes and, without waiting for cooling, put into the press.

Types of sharpening and removal of triggers

In order to properly sharpen a blade, you first need to know that before sharpening it needs to be stabbed, because the future blade requires from 0.2 mm to 0.6 mm of thickness, depending on the type of steel. Secondly, you should not sharpen your knife using electric sandpaper. The circle rotates at high speed, reaching 3000 rpm. From such a rotation speed, not only a significant layer of the workpiece is processed, but also loses its hardness.
There are many ways to remove bevels from a blade, some use diamond files, some use a sanding belt on a machine, one of these is correct until it is observed corner requirement, no result will be achieved. In such cases, beginners can benefit from sharpening sets that allow them to adjust the required angles.
During sharpening, burrs are formed, the edge collapses or the creation of a chichetse-shaped profile, which must be processed because such an edge quickly dulls or shrinks. There are two ways to fix this: use a special grinding stone with paste or the old-fashioned method: a leather belt attached to a wooden block with paste attached to a wooden block.
Also, a beginner may mistakenly think that the knife has been sharpened due to the formation of a “wire cutting edge” this feature lies in the cutting part, not of the blade itself, but of chips that have not been completely cleaned and which were formed as a result of sharpening.
How to check if a knife is sharpened enough. You can check the sharpness of a knife using a sheet of paper that needs to be cut crosswise. The sheet should be cut easily without jamming or changing the cut. Or can you just take the hair and cut it effortlessly? This means the sharpening is sufficient.