The use of stimulants when growing zonal pelargonium. How to grow geranium at home from seeds

These flowers have been living on our windowsills for centuries. Out of habit, we call them geraniums, although in fact they are pelargonium. A relative of field geraniums, together with it it is part of the same family - Geraniaceae. Caring for pelargonium at home is simple, and a huge variety of varieties will allow everyone to choose a plant to suit their taste.

The genus Pelargonium is numerous and includes about 250 species. But not all of them have been introduced into culture. Through the efforts of flower growers, many magnificent varieties of this flower have been created. Similar characteristics allow us to distinguish the following groups.

Pelargonium is zonal.

This largest group includes about 1000 varieties. The plant is unpretentious. When grown outdoors in warm climates, it resembles a tree, reaching a height of several meters. IN indoor culture the dimensions are much more modest, but some specimens reach a height of 1 meter. There are also very small ones no higher than 12.5 cm - such zonal pelargonium is called miniature. All varieties of this group are united by one common feature: ringlets on the leaves, which can be bright and contrasting or barely noticeable. Color palette The inflorescences are very diverse - all shades of red and pink, white, cream and yellow. There are varieties whose petals are painted in several shades of one or different colors. The varieties of this group are so diverse that within it there is its own division according to growth vigor, number of petals and inflorescence shape. Variegated varieties are distinguished separately.

• Rosebuds or rosebud pelargoniums. Sometimes they are also called rosaceae - the numerous petals of double flowers twisted towards the center really resemble miniature roses. Varieties of rosebud pelargonium: Scarlet Rambler, Australian Pink Rambler.
• In star pelargoniums, the flowers resemble stars, and the leaves are strongly dissected and look like an open human palm with outstretched fingers. Popular varieties are Faye Brawner and Robyn Hannah.
• In carnation-shaped pelargoniums, the edges of the petals have teeth like those of carnation flowers. The most interesting varieties: Pat Hannam Graffity, Violet.
• Cactus pelargoniums, with their disheveled flowers, resemble cactus-shaped dahlias. Ardwick Cinnamon and Bevis varieties deserve attention.
• Tulip-shaped pelargoniums, represented by three dozen hybrid varieties, have flowers similar to small tulip buds that do not fully open. The most unusual and original varieties are Happy Birthday and Lovely, Popcorn.
• Terry Salmon Komtess, Appleblossom, Edwards Embers, Langelands, Brixworth-Rosebud and miniature so-called “Deacons”: Moonlight, Birthday, Finale are very attractive.

Royal pelargonium.

They called it this because of its demanding conditions of keeping, and not for its large flowers; sometimes it is called large-flowered. It has several hundred varieties with varied colors. In some of them, the flower size reaches 8 cm in diameter. They are never monochromatic and there are always contrasting spots or stripes on the petals. The leaves of royal pelargonium are slightly corrugated and have pointed edges. Mandarin, Strawberry cream, Candy Flowers Peach Cloud are beautiful.

Among the royal pelargoniums, a variety called “Angel” stands out. Some gardeners classify them as a separate group. Its peculiarity is large flowers, similar to pansies, with small bushes - only about 30 cm. This species is less capricious than royal pelargonium - the plants bloom well even in the shade and do not require shaping, maintaining neat bushes on their own. The most interesting varieties: Spanish Angel, Darmsderm, Sardunya, Henry Weller.

Pelargonium ivy-leaved.

Its leaves are similar to ivy leaves and have no pubescence, and long flexible shoots hang down in cascades, for which it is often called ampelous pelargonium. Indeed, this flower looks most advantageous when planted in a flower pot. Among the ampelous pelargoniums there are varieties with variegated leaves, and the color of the flowers varies from purple to red. Interesting varieties: Tomcat, Jester Red/Wite, Aristo Black Beauty.

Pelargonium fragrant.

This species is not bred for its flowers, which are generally small in size and rather inconspicuous. The main advantage of this group is its aromatic leaves with the smell of various fruits, flowers and spices: nutmeg, verbena, apple, pineapple, peach, lemon. If you touch the leaf, it releases essential oils, which this plant is so rich in - they are responsible for the strong smell. The following varieties can be found in the room: Chocolate Mint smells like mint, Attar of Roses smells like rose, and Cy’s Sunburst smells like lemon. The leaves of the latter variety are highly corrugated and have a golden border, which makes it very decorative.

Pelargonium: growing features

Each type of this plant has its own characteristics in care. But there are also patterns that are common to all flowers of this genus. The growing season of geraniums is subject to the changing seasons and care for the flower will be different in each season.

Home care

The homeland of most pelargoniums is savannas South Africa. Hence the love for the sun and the ability to tolerate lack of moisture. Long-term cultivation in indoor culture did little to change the plant's habits.

Soil requirement

Properly selected soil will provide good development plants and their abundant flowering.

What should it be like?

• loose, allows air and water to pass through and retain it;
• light in mechanical composition with the inclusion of sand, moss or perlite;
• the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic;
• Pelargonium needs nutritious soil, but without excess nitrogen, which will cause leaves to grow rather than flowers.

For a beginning gardener, the easiest way is to buy a ready-made soil mixture specifically for pelargoniums. Experts make the soil themselves. There are several options for planting mixture.

• ready soil – 10 parts;
• crushed sphagnum moss – 1 part;
• sand – 1 part;
• humus 0.5 parts.

Or this: a mixture of humus, leaf and turf soil, peat and sand, taken in equal parts.

Temperature, humidity and lighting

During the period of active growing and flowering (from March to September), the temperature comfortable for pelargonium is from 20 to 25 degrees Celsius. During the period of forced rest it is lower - from 12 to 15 degrees. The plant loves Fresh air, but he doesn’t like drafts and royal pelargonium is especially sensitive to it.

The flower does not need high air humidity. It is enough if it is within 50%. These plants do not need spraying - the pubescent leaves do not tolerate water drops well.

All types of pelargonium love light. But they need different lighting. If even the midday sun is suitable for ivy-shaped ones, then it is better to shade the royal and zonal ones at these hours. But for this plant, an excess of sun is less destructive than a deficiency, therefore, when poor lighting flowering weakens, the intensity of leaf color decreases.

In any light, the pot of pelargonium needs to be slightly rotated clockwise every few days so that the plant is symmetrical.

Watering the plant

It is better to underwater this plant than to overwater it. It will easily tolerate a slight drought, but overwatering is fraught with rotting of the root, root collar and the appearance of gray mold. It's time to water pelargonium if the top layer of soil in the pot has dried out. In summer, this is done more often, depending on the air temperature; in winter, watering should be rare, and their amount depends on the lighting. With a long time daylight hours and intense lighting, water the plant more often. It requires soft water at room temperature.

Feeding and fertilizer

Intense flowering requires good nutrition. But organic fertilizers This flower can't stand it. Fertilizer mixtures for flowering plants or a special fertilizer for geraniums “Pelargovit” are suitable. Before flowering or at the beginning of it, additional fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers will be required. During the period of forced rest extra food plants do not need it.

Pruning and replanting

If roots appear from the drainage hole in the pot, it’s time to replant the geranium. This usually happens once every 2 years.

How to replant a plant?

• Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. A container that is too spacious will cause rapid growth of leaves, and flowering may not occur until it is completely filled with roots.
• To the bottom of the pot with big hole To drain water, a drainage made of expanded clay, fragments of brick and pieces of old pots is placed.
• Water the plant in the old pot, take it out, carefully separating it from the walls and without destroying the earthen lump.
• Pour a little damp soil into a new container, place the flower and fill the voids along the walls of the pot with wet soil.
• Next watering in 3 days.

Pruning pelargonium is an integral part of care. During the winter, the flower becomes very elongated and the stems become bare. In the spring, in order to give it a beautiful shape and stimulate the growth of new flowering shoots, the stems are cut, leaving from 2 to 5 buds on each. All sections are treated with fungicide, colloidal sulfur or crushed coal. During the summer, drying leaves and faded flowers are removed and, if necessary, shoots are pinched for better tillering.

Caring for geraniums in autumn, preparing for winter

In order for the plant to rest, conditions are created for it to be in a state of forced dormancy: the temperature is reduced to 15 degrees, feeding is canceled or made rare. Watering at this time is best done through a tray, leaving top part The soil in the pot is dry. But the lighting for the plant cannot be reduced. If it is not possible to significantly lower the temperature, geraniums need to be illuminated.

Pelargonium propagation

This flower is very easy to propagate. Cuttings taken from plants take root well. For non-hybrid varieties, seed propagation is also used.

Cuttings

The easiest way to get a new plant. Pelargonium is short-lived; after 4-5 years the plant degenerates and has to be replaced with a new one grown from a cutting. They can be taken during the entire period of active growth and flowering, but it is easier to combine this procedure with spring pruning - there will be enough material to select good cuttings. For ordinary varieties, the cutting length is from 5 to 7 cm, for dwarf and miniature varieties - only 2-3 cm.

How to root them?

• We make a lower oblique cut.
• Remove the 2 lower leaves with stipules.
• Let the cutting dry a little.
• We immerse the cut in a powder root stimulator.
• We sterilize the soil for planting and pour it into a small container.
• Plant the cuttings in moist soil.

The rooting process lasts from 2 to 4 weeks. The rooted plant is planted in a permanent place.

Sowing algorithm:

• sow in loose, moist soil, spilled with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, to a depth of about 2 cm;
• cover the container with glass or put it on it plastic bag, put in a warm place;
• do not forget to ventilate the crops and moisten them with a spray bottle;
• as soon as the shoots appear, remove the shelter;
• water as needed;
• plant in pots after the formation of 2 true leaves.

Dividing the bush

This method is used if the bush has grown greatly. Usually it is combined with plant transplantation. The pelargonium removed from the pot is carefully divided into parts, retaining the growth point and part of the roots on each. All damage is sprinkled with crushed coal or colloidal sulfur. Divided plants are planted in separate pots.

Disease and pest control

When the soil is over-moistened, gray mold may appear - a gray coating on the leaves. All diseased leaves are removed, the plant is dried and treated with a fungicide.

If root rot or root collar rot appears, no measures will help - the plant will die.

Sometimes pelargonium also has other fungal diseases: verticillium wilt and rust. Effective against all fungal diseases preventative treatments fungicides before wintering.

If geranium is affected by whiteflies, mealybugs, aphids and thrips, it must be treated with insecticides approved for indoor use.

Why does geranium turn yellow, dry out, and not bloom?

If the plant’s condition is good, but it does not want to bloom, the possible reasons are the following:

• pot too spacious;
• unnecessarily heat;
• excessive watering;
• insufficient lighting.

Leaves begin to dry out and turn yellow due to lack of moisture. And if the stem is very bare, the plant does not have enough light.

At home, you can grow absolutely any, even the most exotic, types of flowers from seeds that cannot grow independently in our latitudes. However, this will require a lot of effort, especially in the first stage, which includes getting the first sprouts. But geranium is quite easy to grow from seeds and does not require any special care for the plant in the future.

The flower, firmly established on tables and window sills, belongs to the geranium family and its types vary depending on the zonal affiliation. In addition, there is a special ampelous and ivy-leaved form of pelargonium, but the principles of growing and caring for them are almost the same.

Features of growing pelargonium from seeds

To grow geraniums without problems and quickly, you need to carry out careful selection planting material. Seeds must have Brown color with a slight matte sheen and moderate tint.

The shape of the seeds should be oblong, with small depressions on the sides, the shell should be leathery and dense, size - quite large.

If you come across seeds that are flattened, small, deformed, or that differ from the desired tone and are covered with spots of different colors, set them aside. Planting such material will not provide the desired result.

The seeds of some types of geranium, especially ivy-leaved ones, do not sprout for 2-3 months, which causes panic and disappointment among novice gardeners. As a result, caring for the plant stops completely.

To minimize germination time, it is necessary carry out the scarification procedure, that is, remove part of the shell in order to ensure unhindered access of nutrients directly into the seed.

You can do this yourself using fine- or medium-grained sandpaper, which will allow you to remove the top layer without forming gaps that are harmful to the plant.

If you need to achieve the fastest germination of pelargonium, wipe the seed 2-3 times on sandpaper slow rotational movements.

Preparing the soil for growing geraniums from seeds

The substrate can be purchased at a special flower shop, but there is a high probability that the soil will be oversaturated with minerals.

Such conditions for pelargonium are not very favorable - seedlings appear several times (2-3) slower, and the bushes have thick stems and short growth, flowering is sparse.

Soil for geraniums better to make it yourself. To do this you will need:

• peat High Quality(1 part);
• river sand (1 part);
• turf soil (2 parts).

To avoid infection of the flower with various diseases (which is especially important for hanging varieties), before planting the seeds, the substrate should be bake in the oven 2-3 minutes.

At the same time, you should not be afraid that the organic compounds and nutrients in the soil will be destroyed - pelargonium feels great in unenriched soil and does not require the use of fertilizing.

You can also use a high quality fungicide to treat the soil. Only in this case, you should wait 3-6 hours before planting the seeds.

Where can you grow pelargonium from seeds? Ideal for sprouting geraniums small compact pots or trays, 3 cm deep. You can purchase containers in special stores or make them yourself.

How to grow a plant from seeds

After filling the pots with soil, lightly sprinkle the surface of the soil warm water and leave for one day to warm the earth to the required temperature (21−22 °C).

Then use your finger or suitable tool make small holes at a distance of two cm from each other. Sprinkle the seeds with a layer of soil one cm thick.

The soil needs to be slightly moistened again and cover containers with film, in which small holes are pre-drilled to provide air access.

At home, geraniums need to be provided with optimal temperature regime and lighting, but under no circumstances place pots with planted seeds on the windowsill.

When the first soft green sprouts appear, remove the cover so as not to create conditions for the plant high humidity. Now it’s time to place pallets with pelargonium on the windowsill to provide the plant with sunlight, otherwise growing a flower will take two to three times longer.

In order to obtain a healthy bush with strong stems, as well as to strengthen the root system, the soil must be loosened periodically. After two true leaves appear, pelargonium should be picked and transplant the bush into a narrow and tall container.

After waiting for the fifth leaf to appear on the pelargonium, the seedlings should be pinched. This will ensure that the bush grows as branched as possible, otherwise you will end up with a plant with a long, thin stem.

Caring for pelargonium from seeds at home

Pelargonium does not need to create any special conditions for further growth and development, but still requires some care.

Compliance with basic plant care rules guarantees its protection from pests and various diseases. If the substrate is excessively moistened, there is a high probability that the geranium will be affected by fungal diseases.

In addition, too hot and dry air can provoke the appearance of whiteflies. In these cases, to resolve the problem special drugs are used.

Pelargonium is a plant of the geranium family, often commonly referred to as geranium. This is not entirely true, but it so happens that if we're talking about O indoor flower, then it is still called pelargonium extremely rarely. Meanwhile, geranium is a plant of a different genus, which does not even intersect with pelargonium, but belongs to the same family. True geranium is an outdoor, perennial, cold-resistant plant. They have been growing in indoor conditions for a long time. different kinds and varieties of pelargonium. It's very decorative home plant, which has undergone significant changes thanks to the efforts of breeders, and has become even more beautiful.

Pelargonium is an easy flower to grow. Modern hybrids have adaptive properties and rare ones have special requirements for growing conditions. These plants are often on sale, and amateur flower growers also distribute the surplus of their collections. The cost of the flower is affordable.

Landing

Optimal time

Pelargoniums appear on sale in large quantities in the spring in the form of mature plants covered with buds and flowers. It is at this time that they appear in the house.

Landing method

In this form, it is not advisable to change the soil in them, transport soil, slightly filled on the farm nutrients, you need to leave it on the roots. Therefore, planting at this time involves transferring it to another pot, adding, if necessary, soil along the edges of the container. And one more thing: very often Dutch pets end up planted in soil without drainage; when purchased, overgrown roots are already visible from the bottom holes. This encourages new plant owners to choose a much larger pot bigger size. But it's not right.

The pot is selected 1 - 3 cm larger in diameter and the same depth. Add drainage to the bottom, cover it with soil, remove the plant from the shipping pot and place it in a new one. The gaps are filled with soil, the plant is watered. That's it, the plant is planted. It is better to put it in a cool and not brightly lit place for some time to adapt to new conditions.

Substrate

For growing pelargoniums, ready-made universal primer, not particularly rich in organic matter. Otherwise, too nutritious soil will promote rapid development of foliage to the detriment of flowering.

Care

Place and light

Pelargoniums love fairly bright lighting, but in summer they prefer eastern or western lighting to a south window. In winter they grow well on the south side. Many people respond well to light shading during flowering - in this case, the corollas of flowers turn out to be more saturated in color, and the flowering itself lasts longer.

In winter, if there is no rest period, it is necessary to provide very good lighting.

Air humidity

The plant does not require high humidity or spraying. Pelargonium leaves are designed in such a way that moisture evaporation occurs very economically, and they do not suffer from the dryness of the surrounding air. After hygienic water procedures, the flower should not be exposed wet in the sun; you must wait until the leaves dry completely in the shade.

Temperature

Pelargoniums are able to grow and develop well in summer at elevated temperatures, but at moderate temperatures the inflorescences on the plant last longer. That is why autumn bloom It is usually more lush and longer than the summer one.

A cool environment in winter is also beneficial, but this is not an absolute requirement: most modern hybrids grow and flower well all year round without lowering the temperature.

Watering

Pelargoniums do not like excessive watering. They require abundant but not frequent soil moisture. In the intervals between irrigations, the soil should dry out sufficiently. In winter, at low temperatures, this is especially important - excess moisture can destroy the plant.

Top dressing

Fertilizers are rarely used. After spring replanting and summer flowering, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers is possible, but in no case with nitrogen fertilizers. In winter, pelargoniums are not fed, no matter how they are maintained at this time.

Trimming

By spring, especially during a warm winter, the plant becomes very elongated and becomes “legged”, because the lower leaves fall off and the internodes enlarge. To increase the decorativeness of the bush, its branches are shortened.

Trimming method

No matter how much pelargonium grows over the winter, it should be cut to a stump no more than 15 cm high. This will help awaken dormant buds, which will give rise to new branches. The plant will be thick and strong.

The cut parts are divided into cuttings and used for propagation.

Transfer

In the spring, the plant is replanted. It is convenient to combine these procedures.

Transplant method

After trimming, the stump is removed from the pot, the roots are cleaned of old soil, straightened and trimmed. Dipping the cuts in charcoal, the plant is planted in fresh earthen mixture. You can use the same pot - the number of roots and branches has decreased, there is no need to increase the volume. The soil is well compacted, but watered lightly - there are still few leaves on the stump or none at all, evaporation will be minimal. For the first week after transplantation, pelargonium is kept in a shaded place.

Reproduction

Another spring activity carried out in the spring is breeding.

Reproduction methods

• seminal: Mixed seeds are often on sale. They are quite suitable for organizing a collection, because... sown in early spring or late winter, young plants bloom in the same summer, and then it becomes clear what color the plants appeared in the house. Usually propagated by seeds unpretentious plants, but no less beautiful for that. Often, as a result of partial splitting of the characteristics of hybrid varieties, plants that are peculiar, unusual in color, and even unique are obtained.
• cuttings : after spring pruning remains a large number of cut branches. They are cut into 10 cm cuttings, the lower leaves are torn off, the sections are slightly dried (about 1 hour) and planted in the ground or placed in an opaque container for rooting in water.

Important: A little water is poured into the container; the lower end of the cutting should be immersed in it by 1–2 cm, no more. And it is better if it does not touch the bottom of the container.

Bloom

Pelargonium blooms profusely and continuously every year.

Dates and flowers

WITH early spring Pelargonium is in bloom until late autumn. During this time, several waves of flowering pass, between which new branches grow. For some owners, these plants bloom all year round, not depending on the time of year, which means that the conditions are suitable. But it is still more correct to give pelargonium 3 months of rest so that it can gain strength.

Flowers are collected in an umbrella inflorescence. The colors are very diverse, all shades, up to almost black, and mixed, as well as speckled.

After flowering

When each inflorescence begins to wilt, it is removed, because Unnecessary fruits are formed very quickly, which deplete the plant. At the end of the flowering period, in the fall, you can feed pelargonium once with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. To stimulate new flowering in winter, you need to prune without waiting for spring. In this case, the lighting must be very good. It should be remembered, however, that any continuous flowering plant he becomes exhausted early, becomes weak and falls ill at the slightest misfortune.

There are not so many types of pelargonium grown at home. But within each species there are a sufficient number of varieties, which makes the range of pelargoniums truly immense.

Pelargonium zonal(garden) – the most common species with the largest number of varieties. Characteristic sign– rounded leaves, with areas highlighted in color. This zoning is especially noticeable when growing a plant in good light.

This species gave rise to the classification of pelargoniums according to flower shape:

• simple: in the inflorescence there are simple five-petaled flowers, often quite large (chandeliers), numerous, creating an umbrella of impressive size, one-two-tone color, sometimes speckled, for example, Carmel;
• semi-double : the flower is no longer flat, but not yet double, the color is varied, for example, Gerda;
• terry : double row of petals of different colors, for example, miniature Brookside, standard Lara;
• star-shaped: petals are not rounded, but sharp, narrow, simple and semi-double, varied in color, for example, miniature Vectis;
• rosebud (rosebuds, rosebud) – flowers in the form of roses, collected in a characteristic umbrella – a very popular trend in breeding. Simple rose boxes small size, usually red and its shades. More complex hybrids - large, varied color combinations. Apple Blossom varieties are very decorative ( Appleblossom), Denise, April Snow (April Snow), dwarf Odensjo ( Odensjo).
• tulip-shaped : flowers in an umbrella inflorescence in the form of unopened tulips, in white-pink-red tones, for example, a series Pandora Red And Pink (Pandora Red And Pink).

Pelargonium grandiflora (royal, large-flowered) – leaves are jagged, hard, flowers are not collected in an inflorescence, solitary, large, non-uniform, for example, Bravo, David. Blooms profusely and requires a dormant period in winter.

Pelargonium ivy-leaved – leaves without pubescence, similar to ivy leaves. Often ampelous or creeping. IN hybrid varieties There are double and rosebud flowers, for example, Viva.

Pelargonium fragrant – strongly cut leaves with a pronounced aroma. The flowers are inconspicuous, small, simple, white, pink or lilac, rarely yellow. The smell of vanilla, pine, mint, rose, lemon, for example, Citrosa.

Zonal and ivy-leaved pelargoniums may have additional decorative element– variegation on the leaves (various colors)

Diseases and pests

Pelargonium, thanks to its essential oils, repel most pests. Moreover, insects in general, including mosquitoes and flies, penetrate less into the room where these plants are located.

With high air humidity, fungal infection can occur. If the trunk is damaged, the black leg at the base is damaged, then the specimen cannot be saved. In this case, cuttings from healthy parts are taken as early as possible for the purpose of further rooting. If a flower is affected by gray rot, the diseased leaves are removed and the plant is treated with foundationazole.

Occasionally occurs viral disease pelargonium. Its sign is the appearance of concentric spots on the leaves with a yellow center, which later become necrotic. The virus affects the plant as a whole; cuttings cannot be taken for propagation; the flower must be destroyed.

Note to the florist

• For abundant flowering Pelargonium should grow in a cramped pot. Small volume stimulates development flower buds and prevents the occurrence of rot - the soil dries out quickly.
• Pelargoniums purify indoor air not only from dust, but also from pathogenic microbes and viruses.

FAQ

Pelargonium lives a long time, but after 5 years it significantly loses its decorative effect. You can grow it in the future as a bonsai, using the thickening of the trunk as a decorative element; this is now a very popular trend. But for typical development, the cutting is rooted and a new plant is grown.

Is pelargonium poisonous?

The plant is not poisonous. Some species of related geranium are eaten.

Why doesn't it bloom? Some species, such as royal pelargonium, do not bloom unless there is a drop in temperature during the winter dormancy period.

In winter, pelargonium often does not bloom, even in warm conditions.

Why do the leaves turn yellow, dry, and curl?

Most often this happens in winter. The plant does not have enough light, it stretches and drops some leaves, especially in the lower part. After spring pruning, buds will begin to appear on the trunk, and the plant will be covered with greenery.

If the leaves turn yellow in spots and not along the edges, and at the same time curl, then a viral infection is possible. This is incurable, the plant must be destroyed in order to prevent spread to other flowers.

Why doesn't pelargonium grow?

Perhaps the plant is in a dormant period. Or is it dwarf or miniature variety, which remains very compact at any age.

Why does pelargonium fade quickly?

Individual inflorescences do not live very long - 2 - 3 weeks. But the flowering of the bush as a whole lasts more than six months, because... More and more new flowers are appearing. The life span of flowers is shortened by increased air temperature and too bright light, which happens on a southern windowsill in summer.

How to preserve pelargonium in winter?

It is best to provide it with cool conditions with minimal watering. If this is not possible, then it should be kept as close to the window as possible, preferably with additional lighting in the darkest months. Water moderately, do not feed. At the end of winter, prune and replant.

Pelargonium is not in vain loved by many generations of gardeners. It brings comfort and tranquility to the house, protects and decorates the home.

The modern variety of varieties allows you to assemble a collection for every taste.

Many flower lovers love pelargonium - beautiful unpretentious flower, easy to propagate, easy to care for. Pelargonium is popularly called geranium, although this is not entirely true. , which is frost-resistant and can be grown in one place for many years. But pelargonium is thermophilic, and can be kept in the garden only in the warm season. Growing pelargonium does not cause any difficulties even for a novice gardener, if you have an understanding of the characteristics of this flower.
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What are the features of pelargonium?

This flower is considered to be in the geranium family. The flower was brought to Europe from Holland in the 18th century. It quickly gained popularity among flower growers. Breeders have managed to develop a large variety of pelargonium species. All varieties can be divided into six large groups: ampelous (ivy-leaved), English domestic large-flowered, garden, fragrant, variegated, succulent.

Moreover, ivy-leaved and garden variety reproduce well by seeds and grow well in open ground, decorating flower arrangements.

Pelargonium - growing conditions

It can be grown in winter at home, and in summer in the garden or directly in the ground or in pots, complementing

• Temperature. Pelargonium is thermophilic, so before the first frost it needs to be moved indoors. Optimal home temperature in winter time should be from 8 to 12 degrees. In summer, the plant requires moderate heat of 17-23 degrees. A plant is planted in the garden outdoors after threats return frosts. At a temperature of about 12 degrees, pelargonium stops blooming. But high temperatures are also undesirable for the plant. About low not comfortable temperature The plant signals by turning the leaves red. When removing a flower from the garden in the fall, it is necessary to reduce the temperature and amount of water when watering so that the plant reduces its growth and does not become depleted in low light.
• Lighting. The plant is light-loving and with a lack of light it blooms weakly and becomes very elongated. Interestingly, when grown in the garden it tolerates direct sunlight very well, but at home the flower needs to be protected from the sun by shading the flower. However, with a lack of lighting, the plant begins to turn yellow, losing the lower leaves and exposing the stem, and blooms poorly. At home, it is necessary to turn the flower towards the light several times a week for its uniform development.
• The flower loves space, so there is no need to plant other plants close.

pelargonium - variety of species

• Watering. Pelargonium is a drought-resistant flower, but quickly becomes infected with fungal diseases. Therefore, when watering, it is better to underwater than to overwater. Therefore, they usually water the plant when the soil under it dries out, without allowing it to dry out completely. The leaves signal that the plant is overwatering: they become limp and drooping. If there is a lack of water in the soil, the leaves turn yellow, the edges dry out, and the plant stops blooming. Air humidity does not play a role in the life of pelargonium, so it does not need to be sprayed. Increased humidity can provoke fungal diseases.
• Feeding Experts advise combining it with each watering, calculating the dose of fertilizer for the number of waterings. Or feed once a week until late autumn. If the soil under the plant is dry, you must first water it. plain water, and then with the addition of fertilizers. If in winter you managed to create reduced temperature, then fertilizing is completely unnecessary. If the flower still grows a little, then fertilizing is carried out with a quarter of the required dose of fertilizer. 2-2.5 months before flowering, the plant needs to be fed mineral fertilizers with lots of potassium. If symptoms of leaf chlorosis appear, be sure to include iron chelate and magnesium sulfate in the fertilizing.
• The soil. For beautiful flowering And healthy plant the soil must be fertile. The composition of the soil consists of a mixture in equal proportions of peat, sand, and garden soil. It is imperative to drain the stones. Do not forget to loosen the soil more often so that there is good air access to the roots, which will prevent them from rotting.
• Pot size. For pelargonium flower pot selected according to the size of the root system. The plant grows much better and also blooms brighter and more abundantly in small containers. In large pots, the plant itself begins to actively develop to the detriment of flowering.
• To form a bush and quickly branch, it is recommended to pinch the growing tip around February or March.

Pelargonium propagation

The plant develops well within 2-5 years. Therefore, you need to propagate it by cuttings, which can be rooted from early spring to late autumn. Cuttings are taken from the tops 5-7 cm long only from healthy and strong plants. Bottom sheets Carefully remove from the cutting and make an oblique cut below the node, which needs to be dried and then placed in a container with water until roots appear.
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For almost a century, breeders all over the world have been breeding new varieties of pelargonium. Thanks to their efforts, an incredibly large number of different varieties and varieties of this ornamental plant. The culture is not overly demanding in terms of growing conditions and, with proper care, will definitely respond with lush, luxurious flowering. We bring to your attention detailed information about zonal pelargonium, as well as its best varieties (photos with names and descriptions are attached).

About zonal pelargonium

This is one of the most common groups of plants, represented by a large number of species and varieties. Zonal varieties, belonging to the group of the same name, are considered for the reason that they have a certain zone on the leaves, painted in a different color (most often in the form of a small ring-shaped or round spot). Pelargonium zonalis is perfect for growing not only indoors, but also in open areas.

The variety is represented by an erect, fairly branched and powerful bush, densely covered with foliage. The bush is covered with small lush umbrella flowers. The leaves are heavily pubescent and have a specific odor. Zonal pelargoniums are also divided into several varieties depending on the number of petals on the flowers. So, they come with 5-8 petals (sometimes more).

Pelargonium is an unpretentious plant

Zonal pelargonium is a rather unpretentious plant in terms of growing conditions, but quite demanding in terms of care. It is necessary to provide it with the right amount of solar heat and light, nutritious and regular feeding, saturate with moisture, etc.

Advice. IN winter period it is necessary to provide the plant with sufficient access to cool air. If this is not possible, remove as many bare shoots from the plant as possible in the spring.

Basic classification of zonal pelargonium

Zonal pelargoniums, in turn, can be divided into several subgroups:

• Rosaceae. All varieties presented in this category have luxurious double flowers that look very reminiscent of classic roses.

Rosaceous pelargonium

• Tulip-shaped. The flowers of varieties from this group are small flowers collected in inflorescences. Outwardly they resemble small unopened tulip-shaped buds. The petals of tulip-shaped pelargoniums have a rather unusual appearance: they are slightly inclined inward and lowered, as if they have already begun to fade. This in no way means that the plants are actually withering. Really lethargic appearance petals is a specific feature of the variety.

Tulip pelargonium

• Star-shaped. Star pelargoniums They are completely different from their “compatriots”: the flowers of these dwarf plants have an unusual shape of a pointed star. Moreover, quite often the two largest petals have an elongated shape with a sharp end, which makes them different from the rest.

star pelargonium

• Dianthus. The varieties presented in this category are very similar in appearance to garden carnations: they are just as large, with carved petals of a fairly bright shade.

Carnation pelargonium

• Cactus-like. A rather rare variety of zonal pelargonium, which is represented by a fairly large, heavily leafy bush. The leaves are wide, bright green. Flowers of cactus-shaped varieties look quite unusual: their petals seem to be rolled into narrow tubes. Quite often they have a slightly “disheveled” appearance.

cactus pelargonium

• Deacons. Quite young hybrids that appeared on the world flower market less than 50 years ago. Presented in a very compact and plentiful amount flowering bush with a small rosette of flowers in a soft peach, pink or red hue.

Pelargonium deacon

Let's take a closer look at several of the best representatives in each category of zonal varieties of pelargonium. Among the most popular pink varieties Several can be distinguished:

• April Snow is a neat dwarf plant with small double flowers Pink colour in the form of roses.
• Denise is a powerful plant that every year is covered with a large terry cap of pink or peach color.
• Monseruds Rosen – difficult to grow – quite difficult to form the required form, is distinguished by luxurious burgundy flowering.

Among the most popular star varieties Pelargoniums can be distinguished as follows:

• Aunty Pam – Stellar. The variety is represented by a fairly compact, well-branched bush, densely covered with luxurious bright pink flower rosettes. Externally flower petals resemble a small terry carnation.
• Borthwood – Stellar. Another excellent star variety, this is a heavily flowering dwarf shrub whose leaves are shaped slightly like frogs' legs.
• Fandango. A rather unusual variety, the flowers of which look slightly “shabby”: the shape of the petals is a little torn, with fuzzy edges. The plants bloom abundantly and lushly; the flowers have a pleasant soft coral hue.

Pelargonium Fandango

Among cactus varieties Pelargoniums can be noted as follows.