Electroplating at home is its most important component.

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Electroplating is a home-based process used to coat one metal with elements of another metal.

Electroplating is transmission electric current through a solution called an electrolyte. This is done by dipping two terminals, called electrodes, into electrolyte and connecting them to a circuit with a battery or other power source. Electrodes and electrolyte are selected elements. When electricity flows through the circuit, the electrolyte begins to split, and some of the metal atoms from its composition are deposited in a thin layer on the surface of one of the electrodes. All types of metals can be processed in this way, including gold, silver, tin, zinc, copper, cadmium, chromium, nickel, platinum and lead.

Italian inventor Luigi V. Brugnatelli invented the art of electroplating in 1805. He connected a wire between a voltaic (battery) and a gold solution.

A wire connected to a metal object would ground the circuit, and as current flowed, the gold would become attached to the surface of the metal object to make a smooth, shiny coating.

Electroplating became an important commercial process in the 1840s when John Wright (England) discovered that gold or silver could be dissolved in potassium cyanide for use in plating. One of the first companies to use the new process was the English firm Elkington & Mason, which opened a silver production facility and made spectacle frames, feathers, and other small metal items that could be plated in large quantities.

For many years, electroplating was used primarily to produce expensive items from inexpensive materials.
In the 19th century, national churches used, for example, thousands of religious icons plated in gold or silver. However, in later years, companies used electroplating to create objects that could not be easily duplicated even when using expensive materials. Classic example is a car bumper.
Process Features
Electroplating, including at home, is very similar to electrolysis (which uses electricity to separate chemical solution), which is the reverse procedure in which batteries produce electrical currents.
It is necessary to use the correct electrodes and electrolyte solution for electroplating at home, having predetermined chemical reaction or reactions that will take place when an electric current begins to act. The atoms that attach to the product come from the electrolyte. Therefore, if there is an electroplating process for copper plating, you need a copper electrolyte, and for gold plating, you need a gold-based electrolyte.
During electroplating, the master must make sure that the product to be used is completely clean. Otherwise, when atoms from the electrolyte arrive at it, they will not form a good bond, and the elements may simply precipitate. Typically, cleaning is accomplished by immersing the electrode in a strong acid or alkaline solution, or by (short) connecting the plating circuit in reverse. If the electrode is truly clean, the atoms from the metallization combine into a very strong crystalline structure.
Electroplating, done at home, involves passing an electric current through an electrolyte. This is done by dipping two terminals, called electrodes, into electrolyte and connecting them to a circuit with a battery or other power source. Electrodes and electrolyte are made from carefully selected elements or compounds. As electricity flows through the circuit, the electrolyte is broken down and some of the atoms of the material it contains are deposited in a thin layer on top of one of the electrodes. In this way, home electroplating is realized. All types of metals can be plated in this way, including gold, silver, tin, zinc, copper, cadmium, chromium, nickel, platinum and lead.
To achieve an even electroplating finish, the technician must first clean the surface of your metal object and prepare necessary equipment. Dirt and oils on the surface may prevent the donor element from covering the surface. Start with degreasing, detergent (dish soap), and then scrub the metal with an abrasive acid cleaner to get a very clean surface.
Materials for technology
Necessary equipment if galvanoplasty is performed at home
Metal object to be coated (must be steel).
Power supply (3v-6v).
Zinc sulfate / zinc hydroxide / zinc chloride.
Water.
A glass (instead of a glass or plastic object).
Zinc (can be found inside Zn-C batteries).
Sand paper (120).
Galvanic bath, homemade or similar container.
Tissue paper.
Wires.
Clean workplace sufficient for electroplating.
Source needed direct current with voltage regulation, home socket is not suitable.

What do you need to prepare electrolyte at home? For various products different solution compositions are required. For the solution, water with acids and other important inclusions of salts and metals is used. Do-it-yourself electroplating allows you to process many parts and tools for decoration or to increase wear resistance. The temperature of the electrolyte plays a different role in different operations. For example, when chrome plating, the higher the temperature, the brighter the coating is expressed.
Preliminary actions
How to prepare a product made of steel or other material before the process begins at home?
Many of the protective coatings include special provisions for preparing the surface for electroplating during DIY coating.
Materials that cleaning chemicals cannot remove
There are some materials that chemicals cannot be removed or does so with great difficulty for the galvanizing process. Here is a list of the most common of these materials:
weld slag and other welding flux residues;
splashing and splashing;
burrs (may include excessively rough edges from flame cutting);
mill coatings such as varnishes or varnishes found on some types of pipes;
epoxy, vinyl and asphalt;
sand and other impurities for castings;
oil paints and markers;
pencil markers;
very heavy or thick deposits of wax or fat.

These materials must be removed from the surface before it is delivered to the galvanizing plant or in the case of domestic conditions.
There are various generally accepted standards for abrasive blasting, hand cleaning and power tool cleaning, effective in removing these materials. Abrasive blasting is usually necessary for castings to remove sand and other impurities from the casting process. Alternatively, a variety of products can be used that are compatible with the electroplating process to reduce the need for blasting or power tool cleaning. The use of uncoated electrodes avoids the problem of flux deposition during welding, which is harmful during the operation. Markers are available that easily dissolve in the baths used in the galvanizing process.
Electroplating at home with muric acid
To set up a home plating system, you will need water, muriatic acid, a 6-volt flashlight battery, a pair of wire clamps, a piece of copper, a piece of metal to process, and a container to hold the components that are used during liquid plating. The 6-volt battery has two terminals for easy connection to the system. It is acceptable to use a less powerful power source.
Crocodiles fix a piece of copper (as a source of elemental ions that will be used for plating) and the main workpiece. Steel and nickel are two elements that can easily be plated with copper.
After cleaning the surface of the material with various detergents it is necessary to create a galvanic solution.
5 parts water are mixed with 1 part hydrochloric acid. Do not add water directly to the acid! Such actions cause a violent reaction with possible explosions.
Always maintain a 5:1 ratio. For example, if you need more than 5 cups, measure 10 cups of water and add 2 cups of acid. For mixing use plastic tools, since acid destroys metal. Top part The container will begin to heat up due to the reaction of the acid with water.
Connect the alligator clip to the power source terminals. The battery will supply the current needed for the plating process. Attach one clip to one alligator clip and the other to the second terminal of the battery.
Connect the copper to the positive terminal of the battery. Using an alligator attached to the positive terminal of the source, secure the other end with a metal piece of copper. In another scenario, galvanizing will not be able to work.
Connect to the circuit the part that will be connected to the negative terminal of the battery. If possible, attach the clip in a place where galvanization is not necessary. If there is no free space to attach the clip, you will need to reposition the crocodile during the process to ensure that the product does not show clip marks and the coating is uniform throughout the entire area.
If the process doesn't work, make sure you have the correct terminals installed.
Immerse both elements in the prepared bath of dilute hydrochloric acid. The copper piece does not have to be completely immersed in the solution, but the product that is being processed is completely immersed in the working environment.
To ensure an even layer, it is recommended to periodically stir the solution in the container.
The two pieces need to be kept away from each other to avoid spots where copper accumulates too quickly.
Using this method makes it difficult to get a thick layer of copper, but you can get a thin coating. When you are satisfied appearance material, the object is pulled out and dried.

Coating can take from a few minutes to several hours. After the desired layer has been formed, the material must be dried.
Electroplating with a metal ionic electrolyte solution at home
To electroplate at home with this method, you will need a piece of copper, the metal to be plated, vinegar, hydrogen peroxide, clamps, a 6-volt flashlight battery, a plastic container.
Use a container large enough to submerge the material you are trying to pour.
Mix and heat equal parts vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. To make four cups of solution, add two cups of vinegar to two cups of hydrogen peroxide. The combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide makes peracetic acid, which should be handled with care.
The copper pig should be dissolved in the composition. The liquid will turn blue, indicating that the solution contains copper ions, which can be used to plate the material.
Soak the copper until the solution turns blue. It is better that the solution has a weak concentration; the solution should not be too dark.
Attach the clamps to the battery. The battery provides the current needed to transport the metals from the donor to the recipient. Connect one alligator clip to the positive terminal of the battery and the other clip to the negative terminal.
Clean metal at home to be electroplated. Before starting the galvanizing method, you must ensure that the metal is clean so that the new atoms can form a solid bond with the recipient metal.
Connect the positive clamp to the copper part.
Connect the negative alligator to metal coating. Try to attach the alligator in an inconspicuous place. If you attach metal to the positive pole, electroplating will not work.
Immerse the elements in copper liquid. Once both metals are connected, immerse them in the blue copper solution you prepared earlier. Since they are connected to the battery, current flows through the circuit. The procedure continues until a satisfactory level of coverage is achieved.

Features of galvanization with various metals at home
Option to apply a thin layer on metal object at home can carry decorative function, or ensure corrosion resistance of parts, restore performance.
Nickel plating is the process of deposition of nickel onto metal part. Decorative bright nickel is used in a wide range of applications. It provides high degree shine, corrosion protection and wear resistance. In the automotive industry, bright nickel can be found on bumpers, rims, exhaust pipes and trim. It is also used for bright work on bicycles and motorcycles.
A chrome layer at home can be decorative, provide corrosion resistance, facilitate cleaning procedures, or increase surface hardness. Sometimes a less expensive chrome simulant may be used for aesthetic purposes. Electroplating chrome plating at home can also be done at home.
Copper plating is practiced to produce a protective layer or increase the electrical conductivity of the material. To create such a layer, poisonous cyanides, which are dangerous to life, are used. This operation is not performed at home. Initially, steel products are nickel-plated and only then coated with copper.
Galvanizing is considered the simplest method of galvanizing products. The electrolyte consists of zinc sulfate (200 g), ammonium sulfate (50 g), sodium acetate (15 g) per 1 liter of water. In such a solution, the zinc will dissolve and then successfully coat the workpiece.
Brass plating is used for decorative purposes for fittings. For the operation, the electrolyte must contain copper and zinc salts mixed in a cyanide solution. Electroplating with brass at home is also not recommended.
Silvering and gilding have found industrial use as a conductor and decorative layer. The product is pre-plated with nickel and then coated with silver or gold. To carry out the operation, the electrolyte must contain silver chloride, ferric potassium cyanide, and soda ash. Such a liquid should be heated to 20 degrees, where graphite material can be used as an anode.
Electroforming at home can be used to create exact replicas of metal parts, plates or circuits. Also, the use of technology will enhance the working properties of the workpiece. For such purposes, gold, silver, nickel, chromium or similar metals are used.
Precautions when working with hazardous chemicals
Proper protective equipment should be worn when working at home. When electroplating metals, you are dealing with acids and other chemicals that you need to protect yourself from. Safety glasses, gloves and lab coats are required. Clothes that you don’t mind getting damaged during the metal galvanization procedure are welcome.

The main task of electroplating with copper at home, or copper plating in other words, is to prepare the metal surface for further processing. Such an operation may be subject to various metals, and non-metals, among which we should highlight:

steel,
brass,
nickel and others.

Use of copper

Due to its numerous advantages, this metal has become widespread. Today, copper and its numerous alloys are widely used in industry. The metal is relevant for aircraft manufacturing, automotive manufacturing, instrument making and other industries. Metal and products made from it are no less popular in the domestic sphere. Copper plating itself is one of the the best ways covering a thin layer of metal surface. At home, copper plating can be done in several ways.

Galvanic copper plating at home

For this you will need:

Water;
Hydrochloric acid in its pure form.

Galvanic copper plating at home

Preparation of the solution

Making a saturated solution copper sulfate, after which you will need to add 1/3 of this solution to hydrochloric acid. After preparing the copper sulfate solution, it should be thoroughly stirred so that there are no particles. Next, you need to add hydrochloric acid in a thin stream to this solution. Don't forget about safety precautions and use gloves and safety glasses. After you have added hydrochloric acid to the solution, it should be mixed thoroughly.

So, the solution is ready and you can start copper plating at home. To do this you need to take metal part, on which you are going to apply a layer of copper and prepare it for work. Preparation includes sanding it with sandpaper. This procedure not only allows you to clean metal surface, but also degrease it. The same procedure will be relevant for parts made of brass or lead. After this, the coating must be thoroughly washed in a solution of soda ash. This will allow the material to be degreased more thoroughly.

Soda ash for degreasing material

Next, the surface must be immersed in a solution of copper sulfate and hydrochloric acid. Please note that the first layer of copper is very thin and weak, so it is advisable to remove it with a wire brush. After you have done this, the surface of the steel or lead should be washed again in a solution of soda ash and again immersed in the copper plating solution. These manipulations will lead to the fact that the layer of copper on the surface at home will be much thicker and much stronger, since it can be removed from the object only using sandpaper, and not wire brush like last time.

This method allows you to make a very high-quality copper coating that can only be removed with sandpaper. To improve the copper coating at home, the part should be immersed in the solution again. This method is distinguished by its simplicity and high efficiency, including for lead products.

Copper plating procedure

Copper plating is usually called the procedure for galvanic deposition of copper; the thickness of the copper layer in such cases can be from 300 microns or more. Copper plating of steel is one of the most important processes in electroplating, since it is used as additional process before applying other metals for chrome plating, nickel plating, silver plating.

The copper layer adheres perfectly to the steel and is able to smooth out various defects on the surface.

Copper coatings are characterized by high adhesion to other surfaces, lead products, especially metal ones, as well as high electrical conductivity and ductility. The newly applied coating has a bright pink matte or shiny color. Under the influence of atmospheric influences copper coverings can oxidize, become covered with a coating of oxides with various rainbow-colored spots.

Areas of use of copper plating

Generally, electroplating copper plating can be used:

For decorative purposes. Given the enormous popularity of antique copper products these days. There are methods of artificial aging of steel products;
In galvanoplasty. Widely used in jewelry, among souvenirs, for making bas-reliefs, etc.;
In the technical industry. Copper plating of metal is very important in the electrical field. The low cost of copper plating compared to gold or silver coatings makes it possible to reduce the cost of manufacturing electrodes, electrical busbars, contacts and other elements from lead steel.

Copper plating occurs together with the application of other galvanic coatings

If you need to apply a multi-layer protective and decorative coating to a layer of steel. In the vast majority of cases, copper is used here together with nickel and chromium. This allows you to improve adhesion to the base metal and obtain a shiny, high-strength coating;
To avoid cementation of the area. Copper plating of lead will prevent carbonization from occurring on steel areas. To apply the copper layer, use only those areas where cutting will be carried out;
When performing restoration and restoration work. This method is most often used to restore chrome parts of cars and motorcycles. For these purposes, a fairly thick layer of copper is applied, about 100-250 microns or more, which makes it possible to cover all defects and damage to the metal for applying subsequent coatings;

Types of copper plating

Using electrolyte immersion;
Without immersion in electrolyte.

The first method involves processing metal product sandpaper, brush and rinse with water. After which degreasing in a hot soda solution with repeated rinsing. Next, two copper plates – anodes – are lowered into a glass container on copper wires. The part is suspended on a wire between the plates, after which the current is started.

The second method is relevant for products made of steel, aluminum and zinc.

Home copper plating

This procedure is relevant for various cases, since applying a layer of copper can be used for aluminum cutlery, souvenirs, candlesticks, etc. Non-metal products on which a layer of copper has been applied have a unique effect. These can be plant stems, leaves, etc. Due to the fact that the objects being coated do not have a conductive layer, a special electrically conductive varnish is used instead, which is applied to the surface.

The varnish contains a number of organic solvents, foaming agents and finely dispersed graphite powder, which creates electrical conductivity. The varnish is applied in a thin layer to a dry surface, and after drying in an hour, you can begin copper plating. If desired, copper can be given different color shades using special methods. High quality and the uniqueness of such products is quite deservedly equated to real jewelry.

Video: Copper plating at home

You can coat almost any object with a layer of copper or other metals, including leaves, branches, shells and bird feathers. In order for electroplating to work at home the first time, it is necessary to make the copper plating item electrically conductive. For this, a graphite spray is used, and if electroplating at home is applied to hard objects, you can replace it with a soft, simple pencil. The electrolyte in which copper plating occurs can be purchased ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself. Typically the electrolyte consists of copper sulfate, sulfuric acid and distilled water. If you calculate the proportions correctly, you can use battery electrolyte instead of sulfuric acid and make the solution yourself.

Depending on the size of the items for copper plating, the container may have different shapes and sizes. After the container is filled with electrolyte, anodes, the role of which is played by copper plates, are suspended and secured to its edges. The cathode - the object for copper plating - is usually hung in the middle between them. For hanging, it is most convenient to use medium-hard copper wire. If the object is light and constantly floats up, it can be additionally secured at the other end. For a heavy object that retains its shape, a thin and soft wire is sufficient, which is fixed to the surface of the cathode. Then the electrodes are connected, the positive end to the anodes, and the negative end to the cathode. Two copper plates ensure uniform distribution; in particularly difficult cases, more plates can be used.

The power supply is first turned on at a low power of about 0.1 ampere until the cathode is covered with a layer of copper ions. The voltage gradually increases, reaching the required 2 amperes. Excessive voltage will damage the coating. It will remain strong, but there will certainly be excess grain, roughness and it will be difficult to achieve shine. Such a coating is not considered defective, and some ideas require just such execution. Depending on the type of surface to be coppered and the size of the object, the process can take from an hour to a day. In less than an hour you can copper only very small items thin layer. The required thickness of copper also has great importance for copper plating time, and for a thick layer of time, it will take much longer than for a decorative coating. You can take out an object and evaluate the result an unlimited number of times.

After several hours in the galvanic bath, the object serving as the cathode is completely coated with a thin layer of copper. When the entire surface begins to shine, the electroforming process can be considered complete. The copper-plated item is then washed in distilled water, which helps avoid further oxidation. If the process occurred correctly, then the copper layer will completely repeat the texture of the selected item, down to the smallest detail. Proper copper coating of insects and plants in such a way as to preserve their original appearance requires great skill and practice. Even upon closer inspection, the fibers or structure of the copper-plated material will be visible. In order for graphite and copper to adhere well to the surface of the object, it must be thoroughly cleaned if possible before copper plating begins.

If the parameters of the item being copper-plated allow it, you can clean it before copper plating using sandpaper. This will remove the oxide film from the surface. A hot soda solution degreases any surface well, but after using it you must rinse the item running water. If no degreasing agents can be used, as is the case with leaves, flowers or feathers, all that remains is to follow all other recommendations and hope for success. There is also a method for copper plating parts without immersing them in the electrolyte. This method is especially suitable for products made of zinc and aluminum. To apply this method, you will need a piece of stranded copper wire, or thin copper wire folded several times. The insulation is removed from the wire and it is untwisted on one side to form something like a brush or brush.

For ease of work, any hard and comfortable object is tied to the other end of this brush as a handle. In this case, the second end of the wire is also stripped and connected to the current source, to the positive terminal. But the voltage for operation should not exceed 6 V. The electrolyte for this method is prepared in the same way as for copper plating in any container. It is recommended to choose a wide container so that it is convenient to dip a wire brush into it. The part that needs copper plating is also placed in a wide container with low sides that exceeds its dimensions. The product is connected to a current source with a negative terminal, the voltage should also not exceed 6 V. Then the end of the wire, turned into a brush, is dipped in an electrolyte solution and passed along the part intended for copper plating.

An important condition is that the brush should not touch the surface of the copper plated object. In order for the copper to cover the object with a thin and even layer, there must always be an electrolyte on it and at the end of the brush. In this case, the negatively charged part can attract copper ions to its surface in the same way as when it is in a container with an electrolyte. The process requires constant human intervention and takes much longer, but if all conditions are met, the surface will be covered with a thin shiny layer of copper. This method is good for large parts that cannot be matched suitable container for electrolyte. Such big size objects are copper-plated in parts.

Task number one - what to make the anodes from? On forums, people share their experiences. They make it out of anything (a nail, a spoon, the core of a battery, etc.). Some people praise copper plates, some people praise stainless steel, and some people are content with just foil from a beer can. Personally, I will make anodes from graphite. I foresee the question “where will we get it? They say we don’t work at a graphite factory...”. Some people suggest unscrewing the battery and pulling the rods out of it. Firstly, not all batteries now have graphite rods, Secondly, if there are, then they are small, thirdly, batteries cost money. Someone suggested using graphite brushes from electric motors. Again, there is no way out, because they cost money, and you have to look for them. I found the following solution - graphite inserts “from under the horns” of the trolleybus.

They look like this:

On one side they are flat, on the other there is a recess for the cable. Personally, I don’t care about this notch, if it annoys you, then you can grind it off. I took 4 inserts as you can see. I got off with a "thank you." I think any trolleybus driver will give them to you for a chocolate bar. As a last resort, they periodically lie at the final stops of trolleybuses. Along the way, they told me a story that these inserts come in old and new types. For some reason they love old trolleybuses. I don’t know... maybe they are “more graphite”... that remains a mystery to me. And it doesn’t really matter.
Next, I found 2 electrodes in a friend’s garage (for welding work apply).

They look like this:

By and large, you can use anything. They came to my hand. I beat them down and cleaned them with sandpaper. Next, I used a hacksaw to cut 3 identical pieces.

I used a 5 liter car oil bottle for the electrolyte container. I cut off the top and made notches on the edges with scissors so that the pins would not roll.

It turned out like this:

I made one slot in the middle, the rest equidistant in each direction. It may not look very aesthetically pleasing, but it is practical and completely free.

Since the pads are still quite narrow (about 2.5 - 3 centimeters... it’s definitely lazy to measure), I decide to glue them together. The task is actually simple. You just need to remember that the current passes through the place of our gluing. We take it and use a knife to sharpen the edge of the block into dust.

This is what we get:

Then we take 2-part epoxy glue. It happens for five minutes. I didn’t have it on hand, so I had to prolong the pleasure of gluing: (Pour resin into the cork, add graphite dust to it, stir everything. Then pour in the hardener (it comes with the glue) and mix everything again.

This is the picture that comes out:

It turns out 2 anodes:

The edges are large, one is red, the other is black. This is not because I will put a plus on one and a minus on the second, but because I only had 2 of these on hand (both will go plus). There is a small crocodile in the center, and I will attach the coin to it. It's up to you to decide whether to make these crocodiles or not. Someone used women's hair clips and caught the coin around the edge. I screwed on what was at hand. Next, everything is at your discretion. Do as you wish, as long as the current flows.

In the glued dies I make a longitudinal recess on top and in the same way (epoxy plus graphite dust I glue in the pins from the electrodes).

We are waiting for it to dry (luckily the work is not dusty).

After everything has dried, I suggest checking how current still flows through our structure. To do this, I take a multimeter, set it to ohms and apply the probes on different sides of the gluing joint. I see that current is passing.

Actually everything is ready.
It remains to connect our structure to a DC source. I screw the wires with large crocodiles to the positive, and those with small ones to the negative. Where can I get a power source? I used a toy block railway. You can find power supplies from other equipment. Attention should be paid to amperage. Half-amp units will certainly work, but how? It’s better to look for something rated at 1.5-2 amperes.

We assemble our product. I pour water into the bath and add soda bought at the first grocery store I come across.

Somewhere they write that you need to use a 5 percent solution of caustic soda (caustic soda). Well, I don’t have caustic soda at home, so we use what we have. For a liter of water, a couple of spoons of regular soda and it’s done;) Stir everything. We fasten the large crocodiles to the rods on the graphite anodes, and hang the object on the small crocodile.

Here's the subject:

An excellent test subject. The coin was completely destroyed. It was dug up on the beach. The image is not visible at all. Foci of deep corrosion are visible, plus there is stuck sand and other solid contaminants on top. A nightmare, not a coin;)

We plug our installation into a power outlet and provide approximately 5 volts of voltage.

The picture is amazing, everything is gurgling, everything is working... in a word, beauty.

Well, now about the result. Of course, before cleaning with electrolysis, the coin had to be washed, try to remove stuck solid particles, etc. Do not immerse the coin in for a long time to the bath. Remove and clean periodically. Combine mechanical, chemical and electrochemical cleaning methods. I didn't do this intentionally. The task was to show what electrolysis will do to a coin.

Here's what actually happened:

I didn't clean it too much. There is no point. As you can see, potholes and other imperfections have opened up, but the coin has actually been cleaned. If you don’t overuse the method, don’t rush, and if the cleaning object itself is well preserved, then electrolysis will help you.

I hope my article will be useful to you. You can discuss it and ask questions about cleaning this way, make rationalizations, etc. on the forum in the topic “Do-it-yourself galvanic bath.”

There are two types of galvanization - galvanostegy and galvanoplasty. In the first case, a permanent galvanic coating is obtained, which changes the characteristics of parts and objects. Depending on the goals pursued, the processed products acquire new properties: decorativeness, good reflectivity, resistance to mechanical impact and corrosion, wear resistance. Using electroplating, exact copies of samples are created at home or in production (the deposited layer of metal is separated from the matrix).

Galvanization technology: general information

Regardless of whether it is performed at home, the treatment is carried out in a container filled with a conductive solution.

The object is placed between two soluble or insoluble anodes and connected to the negative terminal. The anodes are connected to the positive contact. The optimal ratio of cathode/anode areas is 1:1.

The galvanization process starts when the electrical network is closed - from this moment the transfer of metal ions to the negatively charged product (cathode) begins. As a result, a coating of the required thickness is formed on the object.

Selecting the type of coating

If the priority is solving technical problems (changing electrical conductivity and anti-friction properties, increasing reflectivity, strength, corrosion resistance), then silver, nickel, and copper are used. Precious metals are usually used for decorative purposes: rhodium, gold, silver, palladium

This division is very arbitrary. With the help of silvering (gold plating) it is possible to obtain high-quality protective covering, resistant to aggressive environments. Copper plating is also used in the decoration of products (this coating is subject to additional oxide treatment).

Practice shows: it is possible to seriously increase the strength of processed workpieces by galvanizing their surface only in production. It is difficult to achieve the desired result in a home workshop, so the work of craftsmen is primarily aimed at increasing the attractiveness of the item.

Electroplating method

Do-it-yourself electroplating at home requires the use of special equipment. It doesn't have to be professional at all. Craftsmen find an affordable replacement.

When preparing a galvanic installation with your own hands, the master will have to find a plastic or glass bath of the required volume. A sufficiently durable, electrically insulating, acid-resistant container is required. The object being processed and the required amount of electrolyte and anodes must fit into it.

The power source must have an output voltage and current regulator - this will allow the master to change the processing parameters during operation. Typically, the power source is a rectifier.

An important element of home installation is soluble and insoluble anodes.

In order for the process to proceed correctly, craftsmen maintain the optimal ratio of the areas of the part and the anodes (1:1). Suspension devices provide support to the object and contribute to the correct distribution of current.

Electroplating process

Electroplating at home is carried out using reagents. Difficulties may arise at this stage - many chemical substances are available only to those who have previously received permits.

Need to take care of proper storage components. Reagents, as well as finished electrolytes, are placed in glass or durable plastic containers with lids.

When preparing the composition, it is extremely important to measure all components with great accuracy - it is best to use electronic scales for this.

Preparatory process

Quality (uniformity, strength) finished coating directly depends on the correct preparation of the surface for galvanization. In many cases, removing contaminants and degreasing is not enough - sandblasting may be necessary. Sometimes sanding with special pastes or sandpaper is required.

At home, alcohol and other organic solvents are often used to remove greasy film and other contaminants from surfaces. Degreasing solutions may also be used.

When preparing for galvanization of steel and cast iron products, a solution containing soda ash, caustic, and silicate glue is used (per 1 liter - 50 g, 20 g and 5-15 g, respectively). The solution temperature is 70-90°C. To clean objects made of non-ferrous metals, use a solution of sodium hydrogen phosphate and household solid soap (10-20 g/1 l each). During the procedure, the temperature is 90°C.

Safety precautions

When carrying out galvanic operations, the master is obliged to observe safety precautions. The danger of this technological process lies in the use of toxic chemical components. Complicating the situation is heating the electrolyte to high temperatures. Harmful fumes affect the respiratory system, and there is a risk of chemical burns to the skin and mucous membranes.

Work must be carried out in non-residential premises equipped with good ventilation - in a workshop, outbuilding, garage. Grounding is required.

Eyes need to be protected with glasses. Hand gloves should be soft enough but durable. You will also need an oilcloth apron and rubber shoes.

You cannot eat or drink in the workplace - there is a high risk of sedimentation on food harmful substances which will lead to poisoning.

Before starting work, you should definitely study special literature with an accessible description of the features of the process.

Precious metals in electroplating

Galvanic gilding (silvering) is used to give the product decorative properties. When using the galvanic method, craftsmen receive not just an object ennobled with precious metal, but an exact copy of the original product. It can be either simple or complex. The metal layer applied to the workpiece is separated from the base.

The surface of objects made of ferrous metals is first copper plated before silvering. The temperature of the solution depends on the composition used. The anodes are made of silver with a purity of 999.

The electroplating process requires the use of ready-made electrolytes. The part is pre-cleaned and treated with galvanic nickel to improve adhesion. If the item is made of aluminum and its alloys, it is impossible to apply gold plating at home. The gold-plated object is thoroughly washed and then air dried.

Nickel in electroplating

A layer of nickel is applied to the workpiece before the gilding procedure. Nickel has good protective properties– it protects the surface of the workpiece from the action of aggressive factors, withstands contact with different environments, prevents oxidation and corrosion.

The nickel plating looks beautiful. The thickness of the layer varies - from 0.8 to 55 microns. When processing objects, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid or sulfamine electrolytes are used. Temperature, acidity, and current density depend on the composition of the solution.

Copper in electroplating

Copper plating:

protects the surface of the workpiece from corrosion;
creates surface layer with low electrical resistance.
It is worth considering that without prior nickel plating, cast iron surfaces can only be copper-plated in an alkaline electrolyte. This solution is used in production.

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