Galvanic baths - what is it, principle of operation, design. Electroplating at home is its most important component
After publishing my previous idea - Serious electroplating business - I received so many questions about the technological process that I decided to combine my answers into a separate idea.
Technological equipment for electroplating
1. sulfuric acid bath
2. cold water bath
3. hot water bath
4. ironing bath
5. cold water bath
6. work table on wheels
7. baskets and bottles with acids
8. welding transformer
9. ballast rheostats.
Technological cycle
Includes the following operations:
1. Preliminary preparation.
2. Sulfuric acid passivation.
3. Rinse in cold water.
3. Rinsing in hot water.
4. Ironing.
5. Rinse in cold water.
6. Further processing.
Preliminary preparation
Consists of the following. The received shaft is wiped with a rag to remove any remaining oil, and dirt is removed from the keyways. Then the dimensions of the neck are taken in places of maximum production and the undeveloped dimensions. This is necessary to determine the thickness required coverage and determining the ironing time. If the shaft is damaged (large ellipse, cone), then to restore the correct geometry it is subjected to grinding, but no more than 0.5 percent of the total diameter of the neck is removed. This way the thickness of the required coating is determined.
N(mm) = Nv(working) + 3Nm.sh.(minimum grinding of the machine)
the value 3Nm.sh can be set even more
To determine operating currents, it is necessary to know the cathode (covered) area. To do this, measure the diameter of the neck and its width and then according to the formula
S = π D A,
where A is the width of the neck.
The area is calculated in square decimeters.
Thus, having found out the area and multiplied it by the recommended current density (A\sq.dm), we will know the value of the total required current.
The time required for ironing is found using the formula:
T(hours)=7400*N / Ic*n,
Where:
Ic = I cathode - Ianodic A/dm.
n is the current output of iron, determined practically, but you can use the empirical formula: n = 47(Ic)0.2
Sulfuric acid passivation
After all calculations are completed, we begin the process.
Rubber plugs are plugged into the oil channels.
In order to prepare the shaft surface for ironing, the sulfuric acid passivation method is used. Various modes are used ( alternating current, asymmetric current), but the fastest and most productive is the etching mode on the anode, which allows, simultaneously with passivation, to clean the surface from oil and varnish films.
To do this, the shaft is placed in a sulfuric acid 20-30% solution and connected to the + bus; the cathode is made of sheet lead and its area must exceed the area of the part at least 10 times. Then a current with a density of up to 50A/sq.dm is switched on. Time – 1 min. The current is constant (rectified).
During this time, the surface of the part acquires an even matte dark gray shade. This completes the passivation operation.
Hot and cold water rinsing
Ironing
If you need to restore a specific area, and not the entire part, masking is used - the area that is not subject to ironing is painted over with nitro varnish or nitro paint. Since nitro coatings are very porous, painting should be done in at least two layers, with intermediate drying.
The ironing process is carried out at a temperature of 18-25°C. Anodes made of steel St.3…..St.20. Alloy steels are not used as anodes, because Chromium ions complicate the process and reduce the quality of the coating.
Actually, the ironing process itself is divided into several stages. The first stages serve to create a uniform primary layer, firmly bonded to the base. Final stage serves to build up the working layer with the required hardness.
1. Cathode current - 20 A/sq.dm, anode current - 15.5 A/sq.dm. Time - 15 sec. Coating hardness 180 kgf/sq.mm.
2. Cathode current - 20 A/sq.dm, anode current - 10 A/sq.dm. Time - 60 sec. Coating hardness 270 kgf/sq.mm.
3. Cathode current - 20 A/sq.dm, anode current - 5 A/sq.dm. Time - 60 sec. Coating hardness 400 kgf/sq.mm.
4. Cathode current - 20 A/sq.dm, anode current - 3.5 A/sq.dm. Time - 30 sec. Coating hardness 540 kgf/sq.mm.
5. Cathode current - 30 A/sq.dm, anode current - 3.5 A/sq.dm. Time - 30 sec. Coating hardness 630 kgf/sq.mm.
This is where the “tightening” process ends and then the working layer is built up to the specified dimensions.
6. Cathode current - 30 A/sq.dm, anode current - 3 A/sq.dm. Time is estimated. Coating hardness 630 kgf/sq.mm.
Rinse water from baths 2 and 5 is used to top up the ironing bath. During operation, sludge is released from the anode, which must be removed after settling.
And one more detail. Before starting ironing, you need to “work out” the electrolyte. To do this, hang an unnecessary piece of metal from the cathode and turn on the cathode current of no more than 10 A for one or two hours. This is necessary to clean the solution from impurities and to remove 3-valent iron. Iron with valency 2 is deposited.
If you had a break in work lasting more than a day, the electrolyte must also be worked out.
If you were unable to obtain salt of pure grade or analytical grade, and you are using a gardening chemical, then the process of working out the electrolyte should be carried out with the minimum cathodic current; anode current is not used. The current value is set “on the verge” of the beginning of gas formation at the cathode.
It goes without saying that this process will take much longer than when working with pure reagents.
Electrolyte composition:
ferric chloride - 400-440 g/l
sulfuric acid - 0.8-1 ml\l
potassium iodide - 5-10 g/l
hydrochloric acid - up to pH = 1–1.2
Acidity is determined by litmus or indicator paper.
The hardness of the coating is determined by Rockwell or Brinell.
To begin with, you should not chase hardness and performance, try working in modes 1 and 2, try restoring some part that can then be processed with a file, cutter or drill. When you start to succeed, you will gradually move on to complex-profile parts and increasing hardness.
I am far from thinking that galvanization with asymmetric current is a panacea for all ills and a solution to all problems. It's just a tool. And just like any tool, it cannot be universal for all occasions. Traditional electroplating is no worse, it’s just different.
The purpose of the publication was to draw attention to the fact that thanks to changes in prices for electricity and metal in the domestic and foreign markets, it became possible to receive good material benefits from this process.
If in Soviet times light cost 2 kopecks, and a kg of iron cost 12-16 kopecks, but today the difference in price is higher: light is 2.86 tenge, and metal is more than 50 tenge per kg. If previously the cost of such repairs did not exceed 60% of the original cost, today this figure is much lower. And this is only about hardware. I'm not even talking about the prices for “food grade” tin. If anyone is interested, check out the stock prices. Each can of condensed milk or stew contains from 0.75 g to 2 g. And the process of removing this coating by electroplating takes no more than 4-5 minutes. Work out - I don’t want to. Under this ball, you can pretend to be a fighter for the environment (while remaining at heart an ideological fighter for banknotes) and if you don’t shy away from taxes, then try to reduce them. I don’t think anyone needs to be told about the deposits of this raw material and the labor reserves located there, and sometimes living right on these mines. In large cities, these landfills are mostly electrified. In any case, there is light in the director's trailer. Nobody bothers.....except the crows. :-))))
What is galvanization and what is it eaten with?
Galvanics is a branch of electrochemistry that includes two subsections that study the deposition of electrolytes on the surface of a metal with different purposes. For example, corrosion protection. In real life, the process of coating products, for example, with chromium or copper, has the same name. IN Lately Decorative electroplating at home has become very popular, bringing considerable income to those who are willing to work.
What's in it
Electroplating is a rather vague definition that includes several processes, the name of which is associated with the use of various electrolytes. An example is gilding, i.e. coating with a thin layer of gold, or chrome plating. Copper and silver plating are also popular.
Electroplating at home. Is it possible?
Decorative coating of various objects with metal is becoming increasingly popular among novice entrepreneurs. First of all, due to the fact that start-up investments are kept to a minimum. But electroplating at home is not the best best idea for one simple reason: toxic. It is better to choose a well-ventilated non-residential area. And read the relevant literature on this topic to be prepared for anything.
Necessary equipment for electroplating
Everything you need for your first experience can be done with your own hands or purchased without much difficulty. The process itself is associated with the action of current, so a power supply is required. It should have a voltage regulator, and the output current should be one Ampere. You also need a small bath made of non-conductive, chemically resistant material, for example a plastic tray with thin walls. Also, home electroplating requires a special brush or handle, which is a hollow form into which the electrolyte is poured.
Technological process
Galvanic processes occur under the influence of current. Two anodes are installed in a special bath and electrolyte is poured. We connect the workpiece to the “minus”, and the anodes to the “plus”. When the circuit is closed, the metal contained in the electrolyte is deposited on the work object. The preparation of the solution for each metal is individual, and the proportions must be strictly observed, as well as the current strength, a change in which can significantly affect the process.
Electroplating at home. Preparing parts
Before starting the process itself, it is necessary to remove contaminants from work sites. In some cases, it is enough to just degrease the surface, but sometimes you have to resort to grinding and other more complex methods.
Home electroplating is hazardous to health
The chemical process is always associated with risk, so basic safety rules must be followed:
- make sure there is grounding;
- good ventilation of the room is required;
- It is necessary to follow personal safety rules when working with hazardous substances.
As a conclusion
Remember that electroplating is a very dangerous process associated with the use of active substances that can harm your health and property. Therefore, carefully study all the dangerous aspects and only then get to work.
There are two types of galvanization - galvanostegy and galvanoplasty. In the first case, a permanent galvanic coating is obtained, which changes the characteristics of parts and objects. Depending on the goals pursued, the processed products acquire new properties: decorativeness, good reflectivity, resistance to mechanical impact and corrosion, wear resistance. Using electroplating, exact copies of samples are created at home or in production (the deposited layer of metal is separated from the matrix).
Galvanization technology: general information
Regardless of whether it is performed at home, the treatment is carried out in a container filled with a conductive solution.
The object is placed between two soluble or insoluble anodes and connected to the negative terminal. The anodes are connected to the positive contact. The optimal ratio of cathode/anode areas is 1:1.
The galvanization process starts when the electrical network is closed - from this moment the transfer of metal ions to the negatively charged product (cathode) begins. As a result, a coating of the required thickness is formed on the object.
Selecting the type of coating
If the priority is solving technical problems (changing electrical conductivity and anti-friction properties, increasing reflectivity, strength, corrosion resistance), then silver, nickel, and copper are used. Precious metals are usually used for decorative purposes: rhodium, gold, silver, palladium
This division is very arbitrary. With the help of silvering (gold plating) it is possible to obtain high-quality protective covering, resistant to aggressive environments. Copper plating is also used in the decoration of products (this coating is subject to additional oxide treatment).
Practice shows: it is possible to seriously increase the strength of processed workpieces by galvanizing their surface only in production. It is difficult to achieve the desired result in a home workshop, so the work of craftsmen is primarily aimed at increasing the attractiveness of the item.
Electroplating method
Do-it-yourself electroplating at home requires the use of special equipment. It doesn't have to be professional at all. Craftsmen find an affordable replacement.
When preparing a galvanic installation with your own hands, the master will have to find a plastic or glass bath of the required volume. A sufficiently durable, electrically insulating, acid-resistant container is required. The object being processed and the required amount of electrolyte and anode must fit into it.
The power source must have an output voltage and current regulator - this will allow the master to change the processing parameters during operation. Typically, the power source is a rectifier.
An important element of home installation is soluble and insoluble anodes.
In order for the process to proceed correctly, craftsmen maintain the optimal ratio of the areas of the part and the anodes (1:1). Suspension devices provide support to the object and contribute to the correct distribution of current.
Electroplating process
Electroplating at home is carried out using reagents. Difficulties may arise at this stage - many chemical substances are available only to those who have previously received permits.
Need to take care of proper storage components. Reagents, as well as finished electrolytes, are placed in glass or durable plastic containers with lids.
When preparing the composition, it is extremely important to measure all components with great accuracy - it is best to use electronic scales for this.
Preparatory process
Quality (uniformity, strength) finished coating directly depends on the correct preparation of the surface for galvanization. In many cases, removing contaminants and degreasing is not enough - sandblasting may be necessary. Sometimes grinding with special pastes or sandpaper.
At home, alcohol and other organic solvents are often used to remove greasy film and other contaminants from surfaces. Degreasing solutions may also be used.
When preparing for galvanization of steel and cast iron products, a solution containing soda ash, caustic, silicate glue (per 1 liter - 50 g, 20 g and 5-15 g, respectively). The solution temperature is 70-90°C. To clean objects made of non-ferrous metals, use a solution of sodium hydrogen phosphate and household solid soap (10-20 g/1 l each). During the procedure, the temperature is 90°C.
Safety precautions
When carrying out galvanic operations, the master is obliged to observe safety precautions. The danger of this technological process lies in the use of toxic chemical components. Complicating the situation is heating the electrolyte to high temperatures. Harmful fumes affect the respiratory system, and there is a risk of chemical burns to the skin and mucous membranes.
Work must be carried out in non-residential premises equipped with good ventilation - in a workshop, outbuilding, garage. Grounding is required.
Eyes need to be protected with glasses. Hand gloves should be soft enough but durable. You will also need an oilcloth apron and rubber shoes.
You cannot eat or drink in the workplace - there is a high risk of sedimentation on food harmful substances which will lead to poisoning.
Before starting work, you should definitely study special literature with an accessible description of the features of the process.
Precious metals in electroplating
Galvanic gilding (silvering) is used to give the product decorative properties. When using the galvanic method, craftsmen receive not just an object ennobled with precious metal, but an exact copy of the original product. It can be either simple or complex. The metal layer applied to the workpiece is separated from the base.
The surface of objects made of ferrous metals is first copper plated before silvering. The temperature of the solution depends on the composition used. The anodes are made of silver with a purity of 999.
The electroplating process requires the use of ready-made electrolytes. The part is pre-cleaned and treated with galvanic nickel to improve adhesion. If the item is made of aluminum and its alloys, it is impossible to apply gold plating at home. The gold-plated object is thoroughly washed and then air dried.
Nickel in electroplating
A layer of nickel is applied to the workpiece before the gilding procedure. Nickel has good protective properties– it protects the surface of the workpiece from the action of aggressive factors, withstands contact with different environments, prevents oxidation and corrosion.
The nickel plating looks beautiful. The thickness of the layer varies - from 0.8 to 55 microns. When processing objects, sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid or sulfamine electrolytes are used. Temperature, acidity, and current density depend on the composition of the solution.
Copper in electroplating
Copper plating:
- protects the surface of the workpiece from corrosion;
- creates surface layer with low electrical resistance.
- It is worth considering that without prior nickel plating, cast iron surfaces can only be copper-plated in an alkaline electrolyte. This solution is used in production.
Galvanoplasty - a technique of electrolytic deposition of metals on the surface of various objects (matrices) in order to obtain exact metal copies - was first developed and put into practice in 1838 by the Russian scientist, academician B. S. Jacobi. With his direct participation, many wonderful works of art, statues and bas-reliefs were made for St. Isaac's Cathedral, the Hermitage, the Winter Palace, the Peter and Paul Cathedral, including the famous quadriga for the pediment of the Bolshoi Theater in Moscow.
Electroplating is based on the crystallization of metals from aqueous solutions of their salts by passing a direct electric current through them. This process is called electrolysis.
The current is supplied using two metal plates- electrodes placed in electrolyte. The plate connected to the positive pole of the current source is called the anode. The other plate connected to the negative pole of the current source is the cathode.
In electroplating, cathodes are objects (matrices) on which metal is deposited, and anodes are plates or rods of metal with which this object (matrix) is coated.
The electrolysis process is shown schematically in Figure 1. When current passes through the electrolyte, the anode attracts negatively charged ions, and the cathode attracts positively charged ions. When the ions reach the electrodes, they lose their charge, releasing as neutral atoms or groups of atoms.
Electroplating is widely used in industry for the manufacture of molds, hollow thin-walled tubes, and complex parts with wall thicknesses from several microns to tens of millimeters. The dimensions of the parts are limited only by the volume of the electrolyte baths.
Matrices are made of plastics, glass, of stainless steel, aluminum, various low-melting alloys, lead. An electrically conductive layer is first applied to the surface of the matrix of insulating material.
Matrices can be destructible or permanent. The former are made from low-melting metals and plastic alloys. The materials for the manufacture of the latter are steel, copper, nickel or aluminum and its alloys.
To make metal tubes at home, you need a glass, ceramic or vinyl plastic bath, copper sulfate, sulfuric acid, a 20 Ohm rheostat (maximum current 1 A), an ammeter with a maximum needle deflection current of 1 A, a power source, wire (copper, steel or from low-melting materials and their alloys, for example, tin-lead) as a matrix.
The diameter of the wire corresponds to the internal diameter of the tube being manufactured, and the length of the first should be twice the length of the second.
If you need tubes with internal diameter less than 1 mm, steel wire is used as a matrix. When producing tubes with an internal Ø of 5 mm or more, the matrix is made of low-melting metals and their alloys (for example, solder rods).
The wire should be smooth and even. To do this, it is sanded with fine sandpaper and then finished with micro-skin (“zero”). Then the wire is tinned, excess solder is removed by pulling the heated wire through a rag clamped in a fist. Non-working areas of the matrix are covered with plasticine.
IN warm water(50-60° C) dissolve copper sulfate (200-250 g of salt per 1 liter of water) using a glass container. The settled electrolyte is filtered and then sulfuric acid is poured into it at the rate of 50-60 g per 1 liter of solution.
It should be remembered that you cannot pour the solution into concentrated sulfuric acid. When it comes into contact with water, it causes a violent reaction with a large release of heat and vaporization. As a result, acid may escape from the vessel. Therefore, you need to pour acid into the solution copper sulfate in a thin stream, stirring continuously with a wooden stick.
To ensure that the copper deposit is dense and fine-grained, it is recommended to add a little ethyl alcohol(5-10 g per 1 liter of electrolyte).
The finished electrolyte is poured into a working bath, where matrices and a copper plate or wire are placed.
The matrices are connected to the “minus”, and the copper plate or wire is connected to the “plus” of the power source. The anode area should be 5-10 times larger than the cathode area.
The installation diagram for home electroplating is presented in Figure 2. The power supply transformer has the following data: core Ш20Х20, winding I contains 2200 turns of PEV-1 0.12 wire (at 220 V) or 1300 turns PEV-1 0.15 (at 127 V ), winding II-35 turns PEV-1 0.8.
The electrolysis process and the quality of the coating depend mainly on the composition of the electrolyte, its temperature and current density.
Electrolyte temperature 18-25° C.
Current density - the amount of current per unit surface - is calculated using the formula:
where i is the current in the circuit, A,
S – surface of the product, dm 2.
In practice j=1-1.5 A/dm 2.
Example 1. Determine the value of the working electrolysis current for the manufacture of a tube with an outer diameter of 5 mm and a length of 100 mm. Let's take the current density equal to 1 A/dm 2, then
I=jS=1*3.14*0.05*1 =0.16A.
Calculation of the exposure time of parts under current in a galvanic bath to obtain a layer with a thickness of σ mm is determined by the formula:
t=σ*d*1000/j*C*η,
where t is holding time, hours;
σ - tube thickness, mm;
d- specific gravity copper, g/mm 3;
j - current density, A/mm 2;
C - electrochemical equivalent of copper, g/Ah; η - calculated current output.
Specifically for our case we have
d = 8.95 g/mm 2, i = 1 A/mm 2; C = 1.186 g/Ah; η = 95.
Example 2. Determine the exposure time of the matrix under current in a galvanic bath to obtain copper tube with a wall thickness of 0.5 mm.
t=σ*d*1000/j*C*η=0.5*8.95*1000/1*1.2*95= 40 hours.
After the calculated time has elapsed, the matrix is removed from the galvanic bath and washed with water. The end of the wire is bitten off at a distance of 1.5-2 mm from the tube and after heating to a temperature of 200-250° C, the extended tube is easily removed from the matrix.
In the same way, tubes are made from nickel, chromium, and iron.
V. BUSHUEV, A. NOVIKOV, Voronezh
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Electroplating is an electrochemical process during which the shape of a product is recreated by depositing metal on it. The electroplating method involves coating non-metallic surfaces with metal.
Application of technology
Electroplating is often used in relation to various elegant objects (jewelry, orders and medals, coins, shells, flower pots, sculptures, portraits, etc.). Copper is most often used in electroforming. However, other metals can also be used, including nickel, chromium, steel, and silver.
If all technological requirements are met, it is possible to distinguish a copied object from an original one only by the barrier layer or by removing the original. Moreover, it is quite possible to do all the work yourself at home.
Note! The coating of the copied product must be electrically conductive. If the material lacks this property, bronze or graphite is applied to it.
Creating a Form
We take a print from the product that we will copy. To do this, you will need some kind of low-melting metal, plasticine, plaster or wax. If we use metal, treat the item being copied with soap and place it in cardboard box. Next, pour in a low-melting alloy.
When the casting is completed, we take out the product and subject the resulting form to first degreasing and then copper plating in an electrolyte. To avoid metal deposits on those sides where there is no imprint, we melt the metal in boiling water to obtain a matrix. Fill the form with plaster. The output is a copy.
To create a matrix you will need the following composition:
- wax - 20 parts;
- paraffin - 3 parts;
- graphite - 1 part.
If the mold is created from a dielectric material, we apply an electrically conductive coating to its surface. The conductive layer is applied either by metal reduction or mechanically, which involves applying flake graphite with a brush.
Even before mechanical surface treatment begins, we grind the graphite in a mortar and sift it through a sieve. The best adhesion of graphite is observed with plasticine. It is most effective to treat plaster, wood, glass and plastic forms, as well as papier-mâché, with a solution of gasoline and wax. When the surface has not yet dried, we apply graphite dust to it, and blow off the adhering substance with a directed air flow.
The electroplated coating is easy to separate from the matrix. If the mold is metallic, we create an oxide or sulfide conductive film on the surface. For example, on silver it will be chloride, on lead it will be sulfide. The film will help you easily separate the mold from the coating. In the case of copper, silver and lead, coat the surface with a 1% sodium sulfide solution to create insoluble sulfides.
Materials and equipment
When the mold is ready, place it in a galvanic bath connected to electric current(to prevent the release film from dissolving). First, we coat the conductive copper layer under conditions of low current density.
We will need the following composition:
- copper sulfate - 150-200 grams;
- sulfuric acid - 7-15 grams;
- ethyl alcohol - 30-50 milliliters;
- water - 1 liter.
The operating temperature in the electrolyte bath is 18-25 degrees Celsius. Current density is from 1 to 2 Amperes per square decimeter. Alcohol will be needed to improve the wettability of the coating. As a source direct current You can use a charger for car batteries. We also need an ammeter with the ability to measure current from 0 to 3 or 5 amperes. Usually the chargers already have an ammeter.
It will serve as a rheostat nichrome wire. We wind it on any ceramic plate. A coil from an electric heater will do just fine.
Any bath is suitable plastic container volume from 2 to 50 liters, depending on existing needs. We use a copper plate as an anode.
Note! The anode area should be approximately equal to the area of the workpieces.
To create a conductive layer for the product, add a few drops of varnish to the bronze powder. It is recommended to use colorless nitro varnish. The varnish needs to be made more liquid, so dilute it with acetone to the consistency of a liquid paint and varnish composition.
Manufacturing process
We take approximately a 20-centimeter piece of multi-core cable and remove the wire from it. We protect the insulation on both sides of the wire, bend one end at an angle of 90 degrees and glue it to plastic part instant glue. Moreover, BF glue will not work, as it will dissolve it.
When the items are dry, we degrease them using a product household chemicals(For example, washing powder). Next, wash the product in running water or treat it with acetone.
The parts are firmly fixed to the wire. Now they can be dipped one at a time into pre-prepared bronze paint or this material can be applied with a brush. The entire surface must be evenly painted. It is recommended to use insulated wire from the cable, otherwise copper will fall on the bare wire, which will lead to additional consumption of the anode.
After drying the surface for an hour, twist the dried ends of the wires together. The parts must not touch each other. Next, we connect the products to the positive contact and immerse them in the bath. A few seconds after immersion, the copper plating process, visible to the naked eye, will begin.
Thickness copper plating may fluctuate depending on circumstances, but for small items it will be approximately 0.05 millimeters. The parts are in the bath for 15 hours. The current is adjusted by moving the contact along the nichrome rheostat within 0.8-1.0 Amperes. After copper plating, we increase the current to 2 Amperes. When the curing period of the parts has expired, we wash the items in running water, dry them, and cut off the wire. We clean the wire and prepare it for the next procedure.
The next stage is polishing. For this, a motor equipped with a metal round brush is useful. This job requires a certain skill. The result should be a surface that looks like blackened bronze with some shiny areas. If you couldn’t achieve it right away desired result, again apply sulfur ointment, heat the product over the fire and polish.
For those who doubt the effectiveness of the procedure described above, we suggest doing a test. To do this, you will need a container for electrolyte, where you need to put a little copper. Paint one part with a spray bottle in 2-3 layers in bronze color. Next you need to connect to the battery without using a rheostat. The adapter from the player will also work.
Other metals
In addition to copper, other metals can be applied to a non-metallic surface, including gold or silver. Silver electroplating can be carried out in one of two ways: chemical or electrochemical. Chemical silvering is produced by immersing the product in a boiled solution of silver. The electrochemical process gives a more reliable result, since the coating is more durable as a result of exposure to electric current. Silver electroplating is widely used in the production of jewelry.
So, electroplating at home is quite possible. The process is quite labor-intensive and requires certain skills, but the end result is worth it.