Do-it-yourself electric drill for excavation work. Homemade hammer drill: concrete vibrator and hole drill

home

Signaling

Fans of fishing in the winter have long appreciated the benefits of using an ice drill. Both professional fisherman and beginners know very well how this device makes it easier to drill holes in the ice. Naturally, you can use an ice pick the old fashioned way to break through the ice, but an electric ice drill made at home will greatly facilitate the process. Moreover, if you have the drawings and the desire, you can quickly and easily make an ice drill from a screwdriver with your own hands.

Advantages of a homemade electric ice drill

Automated homemade device, made from a screwdriver, has many advantages over products purchased in a store. The main advantages include:

connecting an electric drive yourself is much cheaper than purchasing a factory product;
the manufacturing process requires a minimum Supplies and a standard set of tools;
improvement of a conventional drill takes place at home, without the involvement of third-party specialists.

The result of efforts home handyman will be an excellent automated device for drilling ice of any thickness, which will turn into an indispensable assistant to the fisherman on winter fishing.

In order for a home-made ice drilling product to cope with the assigned tasks, it is important to choose the right screwdriver model with high power ratings. Using a weak tool will lead to problems when drilling a hole in a thick layer of ice.

Considering that the ice ax must be mobile, you need to buy a power tool with battery. Also, the electric drive must have maximum physical strength and reliability. It must withstand various loads, mechanical shocks and other troubles that happen while fishing.

A power tool for a homemade ice drill must meet the following characteristics:

An excellent product is a powerful screwdriver for an ice drill from the Bosch brand. You can also use a good Japanese power tool trademark Makita. Although it all depends on the financial capabilities and preferences of the fisherman. The main thing is that the product is suitable in terms of power and battery capacity.

Types of battery

Today, a stand-alone electric screwdriver that can be used for self-made Electric ice drill, equipped with different batteries. The following batteries are popular:

The lithium-ion battery is lightweight, high speed charging, but is afraid of low temperatures. Plus, such a battery has a high cost.
The nickel-cadmium battery is heavy, but can operate under extreme conditions. low temperatures, which is important for winter fishing.

Experienced fishermen always take two batteries with them on the ice. To prevent the battery from discharging quickly, it is better to store it under your jacket in a specially made pocket or case. The presence of two batteries allows you to significantly extend the autonomy of the screwdriver.

Replacements for electric screwdrivers

Naturally, to create an electric drill for drilling ice, not only an electric screwdriver is suitable . Home craftsmen can easily adapt other tools:

electric drill;
electric impact wrench;
chainsaw.

The last option is convenient because it runs on gasoline rather than a battery. However, without special tools and lathe Making an ice screw from a chainsaw at home is very difficult.

It is important to understand that not every model of ice auger can be attached to screwdrivers. This is due to the peculiarity of domestic products, which, when drilling ice, rotate in the direction of unwinding of the power tool chuck. This causes a lot of inconvenience during winter fishing. Of course, you can additionally use a reduction gear, but not every home craftsman can make it.

Therefore, when making an automatic ice auger, it is better to give preference to imported models. Any models from the Mora company are ideal, as they easily adapt to electric tool. For them, all the necessary adapters can be bought in the store, which will allow you to efficiently connect the cartridge to the auger.

The Tonar model deserves special attention. The manufacturing company produces removable augers with cutting heads that can be easily connected to a cordless screwdriver. And to drill through thick ice, you can use an extension cord purchased at the store.

Features of manufacturing the screw part

Most fishermen are accustomed to making various accessories themselves. This is due to the fact that not everyone can afford to buy a high-quality device in a store, and even more so if it is mechanized. To manufacture such a product, you will need to prepare spare parts from the following list:

Metal pipe of suitable diameter.
Metal plates for making a screw.
High quality steel knives.

To connect all the individual elements, electric welding will be required. After all the parts are welded, they are cleaned with a grinder. The resulting product is painted to protect against corrosion. Given the complexity of such work, you will need to contact a specialist. Therefore it is better to buy ready product in the shop.

Cutting part

Every fisherman dreams of comfort while fishing. It is important to remember that the quality of ice drilling depends on the following parameters:

Blade hardening. IN modern models Drillers use blades with hardness ratings from 30 to 70 units.
Workmanship cutting knife. The knife has two cutting edges. The speed of ice drilling depends on the quality of sharpening of the latter.

The choice of steel when making an electric ice drill with your own hands is important if all its parts, except the electric drive, are made independently. If you buy a ready-made model in a store, you don’t have to pay attention to this parameter. The following materials are used to make the cutting part:

Hard special steel grade P18 or similar analogues. It is important to pay attention to the hardness of the material, its shape and the quality of sharpening.
Metal coated with a titanium layer. Blades with this coating have a maximum service life.

Preparing the adapter yourself

It is important to remember that the manufacture of the adapter depends on the characteristics of the drill. If you are using a Swedish Mora drill, then an adapter for an ice drill for the following type of screwdriver is suitable:

for the standard model you will need a product with a diameter of 1.8 cm;
if the Mora Nova model is used, the diameter of the adapter should be 2.2 cm.

To prevent the auger from turning in the screwdriver sleeve, the adapter must have a hexagonal work surface. And to prevent accidental loss, a special stop is installed.

There are also adapters with handles. They are easier to use when drilling ice. The adapter model with a diameter of 1.8 cm from the Higashi company fits perfectly with all Swedish drills and some domestic products.

Assembly of individual elements

Having dealt with all the elements that make up the device, you can start assembling an ice auger with your own hands at home. This is a simple process if the previously discussed elements are prepared:

auger part of the drill;
electric screwdriver;
adapter of the appropriate diameter.

The cartridge is connected to the auger using an adapter. This completes the assembly of the automated drill for drilling ice.

Instrument care rules

Whatever type of ice drill based on a screwdriver is made, in order for it to work as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it. To do this, you should adhere to the following rules:

As you can see, making an ice drill with your own hands is a fairly simple process. The main thing is to choose the right adapter, screwdriver and cutting part of the product. By combining all the components into a single structure, you get indispensable assistant on winter fishing. This tool will allow you to drill a hole in ice of any thickness in a few minutes.

When building a house and arranging a site, it is often necessary to do round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same holes, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

Garden gardeners that are easier to make earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

It's easier to make blades from saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The peak drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of her designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of rod large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Pike - one of the tip options

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of suitable diameter, you have found almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

Such homemade drill for excavation work shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you can’t drag it from the depths. a large number of you'll be tormented by the soil. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, for the installation of underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are placed on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

The good thing about a self-made drill is that its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary, they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows interesting design handles - it can be rearranged as the length of the bar increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be taken out often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden auger drawing

Video materials

Our Russian Kulibins can do everything, so a homemade ice drill is not a problem for us, if only the task had been set.

First, let’s decide what manufacturing process we have ahead of us, because every thing can be:

make from scratch;
modify;
retool.

Today's editorial assignment obliges us to talk about making an ice drill with our own hands from scratch and modifying existing models with gasoline engines using a gearbox.

What won't we talk about?

In this material you will not read about converting manual ice augers into electric ones by connecting a screwdriver to them. There will be no description of this process, since there is no actual do-it-yourself manufacturing here, but rather the connection of three parts: a screw, an adapter and a drill together.

Manufacturing from scratch

It’s scary to even begin to describe this complex process. Without metalworking, turning, welding and milling abilities and skills, it is simply unrealistic to make an ice screw with your own hands. For craftsmen, this is probably not very difficult, so let’s get started.

To describe the manufacturing process, we have selected several models:

spatula;
annular;
frame;
screw

They have one thing in common - top part with handles, or a brace. Therefore, first we will try to make it.

Even this is a rather complicated process for an uninitiated person, judge for yourself:

We select a pipe of suitable diameter.
On the ground or floor we draw out the bends of our brace.
We pour dry sand into the pipe and plug it with plugs so that it does not spill out. If you bend without sand, the metal may be damaged.
We bend the pipe using gas burner or a blowtorch.
We weld a bracket to the bottom of the rotor to connect it to the auger.
We drill holes on the handle like on a factory Barnaul drill.
We sand and paint the workpiece.
We buy in the store repair kit for the Tonar ice drill.
We strengthen the upper and middle handles from the kit in the prepared holes.

The rotator is ready, the most difficult task remains - manufacturing the lower part of the mechanism.

Spatula

This homemade ice screw is easier than others to make. A cutting part cut from a steel plate is simply welded onto the lower pipe. It is slightly bent in the form of a spatula, one edge of which is sharpened with sandpaper.

Although such a drill can make a hole in ice, and it is cheap and easy to manufacture, it still has plenty of disadvantages:

gets dull quickly;
the absence of an auger forces you to frequently scoop out the sludge;
slowly cuts ice;
difficult to rotate.

Annular

At the base of such a drill there is a ring with knives and an attached frame. At the top, the frame is connected to the pipe, and the pipe to the brace. The steel strip is twisted into a spiral and point-fixed to the frame. It turns out to be a completely workable model.

Frame

This DIY ice screw is also easy to make. Let us describe this process in detail:

We weld a sharp tip into the pipe for centering on ice.
In the lower part, we weld steel rods to the pipe on both sides at an angle of 30 degrees.
At the bottom we connect them with a strip with an axis made of a pipe. You should end up with two triangles, the largest angle of which is approximately eighty degrees.
We drill holes in the plates and fasten the knives using bolts and nuts.
We adjust the attack angles of the knives using additional pads made of metal plates and washers of different thicknesses.

The slush from the holes made by an ice auger of this design will also have to be scooped out using a scoop.

Screw

This cannot be done completely at home. If someone thinks that the whole problem is with the auger, then this is not so. Main detail such a mechanism is a base for knives. It can only be made by specialists in workshops.

Let's skip the process of creating this part and describe the rest of the process:

We weld a part to the top of the pipe to connect it to the brace.
We also attach it to the bottom for welding. seat for knives.
From sheet metal cut circles.
We cut them to the center from one edge and bend them in the form of an auger blade.
Having bent a sufficient number of blanks, we weld them to the pipe.
We sand and paint the resulting product.
We connect both parts of the ice screw into one.
We screw the knives.

Motorization modification

In this part of our story we will talk about converting a trimmer or chainsaw into an ice drill. The main issues that arise during this work are the manufacture of the adapter and the selection of the gearbox.

An ice drill from a new type of chainsaw, such as those produced by Stihl, Hoogsvarna or Chinese comrades, also requires the manufacture of an additional ergonomic handle. Our old friendship does not require such alteration.

Converting a trimmer into an ice screw is most suitable for models with a folding shaft. An adapter for connecting such a mechanism to a screw is the easiest to make.

Each model of chainsaw or trimmer requires its own modification, so there is no one universal manufacturing recipe. Best to find experienced craftsman and come to him with your tool and together make a decision and draw a diagram for manufacturing the required adapter.

No less important for winter fishing is the gearbox for the ice auger. With its help, the rotation parameters of the shafts are changed, reducing or increasing the speed. This greatly affects the quality and speed of drilling holes.

If the adapter is specially machined, then the gearbox is selected from some operating mechanism, for example, from a roller conveyor.

An important task is right choice auger for an ice drill, it is desirable that it coincides in the direction of rotation with that of a gasoline tool.

It is important to make an ice drill from a chainsaw carefully, taking into account the slightest nuances, because the alteration is very painstaking and expensive, and the finished product will be used for a long time. It is important to ensure that the finished tool is easy to repair and maintain, and that the parts are accessible and interchangeable.

To create a well or carry out other types of excavation work, not only large-scale drilling rigs operated by specialists can be used. On a small scale and with enough time, simpler equipment can be used.

One of these tools is an earth drill - a device that comes in many variations and varieties. For gardening and dacha work it is most in demand and is also used in various industries.

1 Design and purpose of the drill

An excavation drill is a device that is used to create cylindrical holes in the soil (to be more precise, its upper layers are drilled). It consists of a rod (rod), handle and drive. At the bottom of the rod there is a guide tip and a helical blade, mainly made in the form of cutters or cutters.

All drills can be divided into two categories: devices that require the use of manual force, and automatic drills equipped with motors.

2 Types of drills

The classification of portable drilling devices, depending on the type of drive, is carried out into three groups: electric drill, hydraulic earth drill, and gasoline devices.

Gasoline drills are the most extensive category of equipment. A gasoline earth drill (also known as a motor drill) is the best option For household use, if the capabilities of a conventional hand drill are not enough. It easily opens layers of soil up to 2-3 meters deep; in fact, the depth of the well is limited only by the size of the rod extension.

In addition to devices for economic use, there is a category of heavy gas drills for construction: these are fairly large mechanisms that are controlled by two operators. They are equipped with high-power engines that allow you to make wells in problematic soils: hard soil, sandy soil, or soil with a high content of rock inclusions.

The main feature of such devices is that all engines are equipped with a gearbox, through which the engine torque is transmitted to the rock-breaking element. Depending on the class of the device, two types of gearboxes can be installed on it: for heavy drills - worm gears, for light drills - coaxial gearboxes. The fuel usually used is gasoline mixed with 92 oil.

The design of the motor drill consists of the following elements:

Drive: for heavy ones - 3-4 stroke engines, for light ones - two-stroke;
Handle for holding;
Control elements: power adjustment, speed switching;
Augers are usually used as a forage destruction element.

The cost of devices for household use starts from 10 thousand rubles. When purchasing, you should first of all pay attention to such manufacturers as Hitachi, Husqvarna, Stihl - these are well-established companies whose products have an optimal price-performance ratio.

There are also a large number of companies where it is possible. Overall, renting is a great option if you only need the device for a few days. Today, rent, on average in the market, costs about 1000 rubles per day, plus you will need to pay a deposit of 5-10 thousand.

Electric drills are a less popular option compared to the previous one, but still common and well-known.

The only structural difference between such mechanisms and gas drills is the electric motor - all other elements are identical. The use of an electric drive adds both advantages and certain disadvantages to the device.

The indisputable advantages of electric drills include their noiselessness, since, unlike a gasoline engine, electric drive practically inaudible.

The disadvantages are the following: electric motors have relatively less power than gasoline ones, that is, for the same money you can buy a more powerful gas drill than a device with an electric motor.

For domestic use this is not particularly important, but in the case of professional use this factor can become critical. It is also worth remembering mandatory connection devices to the network, which somewhat reduces its portability, since any batteries have the unpleasant feature of running out at the most inopportune moment.

The cost of high-quality electric drills starts from 15 thousand. The main manufacturers are Makita, Mora, Hitachi. Rent – from 1000 rubles per day.

Hydraulic drills are a category of serious industrial installations. The main advantage of such drills over gasoline and electric devices is the reverse function, which makes it possible to drill both clockwise and counterclockwise. Thanks to it, it is much easier to pass through problematic soil layers.

In addition, hydraulic motors, in comparison with electric drives, are 2-3 times smaller in size and much lighter in weight, which makes a hydraulic earth drill more convenient to use.

But even with the same drive size, a hydraulic earth drill will always have more power. Hydraulic motors provide the most flexible control of shaft speed, which allows you to select the optimal drilling mode for different soil layers.

The only significant drawback of drills with hydraulic motors is the “tenderness” of the drive. It is always necessary to maintain its cleanliness, since mechanical contamination inside the drive significantly reduces the service life of the device.

A hydraulic earth drill, in comparison with analogues, is several times more expensive. So, the average price is 30-35 thousand. Renting hydraulic drills will cost you from 1.5 to 2 thousand per day. It is also possible to rent a hydraulic drill with operators, in which case you will pay for one hour of time. This rental will cost you about 1 thousand rubles per hour.

2.1 How to make a drill with your own hands?

If you do not want to purchase something that you can make yourself, or you are not satisfied with the expensive rental of equipment, then you can try to make a mechanical earth drill with your own hands.

To create a homemade drill you need the following tools:

Welding machine;
Grinder (with metal circles);
Small repair equipment - hammer, metal brush, pliers, sandpaper.

It is also necessary to acquire the materials from which the structure will be made:

For the rod - fittings 150 cm long, 15 mm in diameter. (adjust the height of the drill depending on your height);
For the handle - fittings, or a metal pipe 40 centimeters long, with a diameter of 20 mm;
For a cutter - a disk from a circular saw, or a sheet of metal 3-4 mm thick;
For the “needle” (guide element) – a metal drill with a diameter of 15 mm.

A homemade hand drill for excavation work is made as follows:

We manufacture drill cutters (blades). If you take a disk from a circular saw to do this, you can save a significant amount of time and effort.
To make a cutter from such a disk, cut it in half, and on each half grind off the blades with which the disk was originally equipped. There is no need to sharpen the edges of the cutters at first, so as not to cut yourself during the welding process - the sharpness is imparted after all the connections are completed.
If using ordinary metal, make approximate markings on the sheet and cut out two blanks with a grinder. Their size depends on the purpose for which the manual excavation drill will be used - for, or a well for planting trees.
If there is no clear goal, then the best option “for all occasions” are cutters from 15 to 20 mm.
We prepare the fittings for the rod. It is not recommended to make a rod from two small pieces of reinforcement welded together, since sooner or later, due to soil resistance, their connection will disintegrate.
A metal drill is welded to the end of the rod; it acts as a homemade guide element (the optimal length of the drill is from 7 to 10 centimeters)
We weld cutters to the junction of the reinforcement and the drill on the rod. This should be done so that there is an angle of 30 degrees between them.
We take an angle grinder and put it on abrasive wheel on metal, and sharpen the edges of the cutters: remove the upper and lower layers of metal along the outer edges of the semicircles.
We make a handle: a piece of reinforcement, or a steel pipe, is welded perpendicular to the top of the rod.

You can also make a slightly improved design - a homemade hand drill for excavation work with an extendable rod. To do this, a bolt is welded to the drill handle, and a nut is welded to the top of the rod. A piece is used as an extension cord metal pipe, on the edges of which a bolt and nut are welded, identical in size to those welded to the handle and rod.

2.2 Construction and application of the drill (video)

If, when carrying out excavation work on a site, you need to dig several holes-holes for poles or racks, then a garden drill of the Fiskars Quikdrill model will help to significantly speed up this process.

The electric manual auger hole drill Bison, Tornado or Fiskars can significantly facilitate the entire process of earthworks. In addition, the Fiskars Quikdrill model garden auger can drill holes in the soil to depths such as 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm.

An electric manual auger hole drill Bison, Tornado or Fiskars can form a hole in the soil for trees and shrubs.

1 Purpose and characteristics

Currently, drilling operations are carried out everywhere due to the ongoing and developing suburban construction. In most cases, units such as the Zubr, Tornado or Fiskars earth auger drill are used in drilling work in dachas and suburban areas.

It is worth noting that the garden drill of the Fiskars Quikdrill model and its analogues such as Bison, Tornado and Fiskars are capable of creating holes in the ground for:

Installation of fence posts;
Pile mounts;
Laying a pile foundation with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm;
Creation of shallow trenches and technical holes;
Planting shrubs, seedlings and small trees.

A homemade auger drill is presented in the form of an electrical device, which belongs to the category of cutting tools.

Such common units as Zubr, Tornado and Fiskars have excellent reviews from users and are capable of making holes with depths of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm in materials such as:

Stone;
Concrete;
Brick;
Pebble-rich soil.

Structurally, a hand-made earth auger homemade hole drill is similar to a conventional drill, equipped with a shank and a spiral. Thanks to the presence of such a spiral, units such as Zubr, Tornado and Fiskars are capable of not only creating holes with a depth of 100, 200, 300 or 500 mm, but also removing waste material from the drilling zone.

The earthen manual auger hole drill is made of materials with excellent strength characteristics. Its cutting part is made using an alloy with a high degree of hardness.

The presented auger manual hole drill Tornado, Zubr, Fiskars, and similar analogs have several configurations for sharpening the cutting edge.

A distinctive feature of such portable devices, like a manual pit drill Tornado, Bison or Fiskars, is the presence of an electric motor equipped with two comfortable handles.

The electric motor is equipped with a special clamping mechanism in order to fix the drilling tool - the auger. The auger in such units as a manual pit drill Tornado, Bison or Fiskars is presented in the form of a rod with a continuous helical surface along the entire longitudinal axis.

2 What are the features of an electric garden auger?

An electric drill is presented in the form of an electric downhole machine, which is equipped with an electric motor that is mounted in the pipe casing of the device.

The housing ensures the movement of the bit drive during work. A well created using such a unit can last for a long time.

Reviews about the presented unit are mostly good. All modern products are equipped with an asynchronous oil-filled motor equipped with a squirrel-cage rotor.

Thus, the main parts of an electric drill are an asynchronous oil-filled motor and a spindle, which is located on rolling bearings.

Inside the tube housing there is a package of magnetic conductive steel of the stator mechanism. This compartment is divided using non-magnetic steel packages in those places where the radial ball bearings of the rotor are located.

All rotor packages are covered with a layer of aluminum winding and are included in the hollow rotary shaft of the motor. The inside of the motor cavity is filled with a special type of dry insulating oil.

In addition, the internal cavity of the engine is hermetically sealed with upper and lower oil seals. When the system starts, the seals are filled with oil.

In order to compensate for oil leaks and to maintain constant internal pressure in the engine, so-called lubricators and three oil seals are located in the upper part of the engine.

Each of the glands is equipped with a cable input, which is supplied from the edge of the contact rod, and, passing through the glands, is connected to the stator winding.

In order for the weight of the rotating shaft to be absorbed by the entire mechanism, Bottom part It is equipped with an installed thrust ball bearing.

A spindle is attached to the bottom motor cover. It is equipped with a multi-row axial support, which moves thanks to the presence of ball bearings.

Another shaft moves in the housing, which is hollow inside, and its alignment is carried out using a series of ball bearings. There is a connection between the spindle shaft and the main motor shaft.

It is implemented using a gear-shaped coupling. In the place where the shafts are connected there is a hinge type seal.

It provides high degree waterproofing against ingress of flushing working fluid. All axial loads to which the rock-cutting impact tool (auger) is exposed are completely absorbed by the spindle body and are not transferred to the motor shaft.

All types asynchronous motors, which are used in electric drills, have a rather limited operating speed range.

The change in this parameter directly depends on the speed at which the rotor is able to slide relative to the stator field. Thus, the value of the motor torque directly depends on the square of the input voltage.

When the voltage decreases, there is a significant reduction in torque. Based on this, the drop in voltage during short-term types of loads must be compensated by increasing the voltage at the input to the motor by 10-15% of the nominal level.

Depending on the characteristics and type of engine, the voltage at the terminals of the electric drill can be from 1000 to 1200 V. At the moment when the engine starts, there is a significant reduction in torque - this is the so-called failure zone.

This parameter is then restored after the unit returns to normal operating speed. Due to the fact that the engine is started with a focus on a low degree of load, the flywheel moment of all parts involved in rotation is very small.

However, even if the torque is greatly reduced, the engine is able to accelerate the speed of the working shaft in a matter of seconds.

By the way, the efficiency of such an engine, when testing the rated load, can be about 70%. This is explained by the low level of mechanical losses during spindle movement on fixed support points.

Electricity is supplied to the drilling motor using a sectioned cable. It is placed in the internal channel of the drill string.

The current is supplied using a three- or two-core cable. Instead of a third wire, a drill string may act.

It is worth keeping in mind that the cable support for an electric garden auger is generally considered one of the weakest components of the presented system.

The voltage may drop due to broken cable sections and their further contamination. Disturbances in the operation of the electrical circuit are observed when contacts made with copper break down in the places where they are connected to the coupling.

It is worth noting that a portable hand-held garden auger has a number of advantages, which are expressed in:

Facilitation of conditions during drill string operation;
Reduced wear located in the well;
Minimizing power consumption at idle.

In addition, the operating mode of the unit has no bearing on the fluid flow rate. Therefore, the device is most effective when the hole in the ground is completely cleared of the accumulated sludge there.

In addition, the operating cycle of the device does not depend on the quality and characteristics of the solution used during drilling. This property implies the use of the product when working with weighted solutions.

The communication channel for monitoring the operation of the unit is presented in the form of a current conductor. This allows, in some modifications of the device, drilling operations to be carried out remotely.

Due to the fact that manual electric drill presented in the form of an oil-filled engine, all its parts operate in an environment that is isolated from the ingress of sludge.

Based on this, the rotary elements of the screw are least susceptible to harmful corrosive and abrasive processes.

Among the disadvantages of such a device, one can highlight the rather high cost compared to mechanical analogues. The likelihood of damage and distortion when stuck in the wellbore and the low degree of reliability of the cable connection.

Sergey, 45 years old, Samara:

I decided to arrange my own country house personal plot and install mesh fencing. In order to make small holes for digging posts, I used a hand-held electric drill, which I borrowed from a neighbor.
He completed all the work in the shortest possible time, without spending much effort. An excellent unit. I read the reviews - now many people have one in their household, so I decided to buy it myself. I advise everyone!

Vladimir, 53 years old, Voronezh:

Sections