Do-it-yourself wooden vase without using machines. Crafts on a lathe - what can be turned out of wood? Original vase with transparent bottom

Second an important condition safe work a finely grooved chisel is the requirement to always direct it down the slope, i.e. towards smaller diameter. This tool is usually sharpened at 30°. this operation is very convenient to carry out

using a special device that I made for sharpening deep-grooved chisels, slightly changing its settings. The chamfer turns out perfectly smooth without edges. This device will be described later in another article, but now it should be clarified that instead of a finely grooved chisel to form the profile of a vase, you can also use a deeply grooved chisel with a less jerky character, which is what I often do.

Photo 6 shows the finishing scraping of the turned outer surface of the vase with the wings of a finely grooved chisel, which is held at 45° to the surface of the part. The final alignment of the workpiece with the longitudinal arrangement of wood fibers can also be done using a jamb chisel, as shown in photo 7. However, it has a very rough character and even poses a danger, since when buried it can fly out of the hands and injure the turner. At the same time, in the hands of an experienced specialist, such a tool is universal, allowing you to turn almost anything, but only with a lobe arrangement of wood fibers, i.e., when turning transversely, a jamb chisel is absolutely inapplicable. By the way, its blade must be sharpened at 25° on the platform of the electric sharpener tool.

Having completed the formation of the external profile of the vase and leveled its surface, as well as applying small decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel (photo #), I wet sand the product sandpaper P220 grit. why I dip the “skin” in a plate of water and spray the surface with a sprayer. This sanding is preliminary. and in the future after drying the product you will need final finishing. Next, I cut off the supporting protrusion on the bottom of the vase with a thin cutting chisel (photo 9) and clamp the bottom in a chuck with the product supported by the tailstock (photo 10) for a tight fit of the front plane of the jaws to the bottom of the vase. The next step is drilling deep hole in the neck of the vase, but since it is long, for reliability I decided to additionally fix the neck in a lunette (photo 11), the use of which is a common practice when turning vases.

Steady rests for small lathes are not sold; you have to make them yourself. My three-wheeled steady rest (such devices also come in two- and four-wheeled versions) is made of 40 mm thick plywood. The workpiece hole diameter is 220 mm, and the roller skate wheels with precision bearings ensure relatively quiet operation. I had just installed the steady when I needed to interrupt my work: I had to take a roll of cling film and wrap it around the vase (photo 12), otherwise the product made from damp apple wood (an extremely “crackling” species) would certainly have cracked during my absence. By the way, I also use this film to wrap half-finished bowls made of weak, very rotten wood to prevent them from flying apart into pieces when boring the internal cavity. The vase I conceived was supposed to be universal, that is, suitable for both artificial and fresh flowers. In the latter case, the water should be poured into some suitable small vessel, for example, a glass test tube 200 mm long and 20 mm in diameter, placed inside a vase (photo 13).

I did not have a suitable long drill (such as a Lewis spiral or a feather drill with grooves for removing chips) to make a hole in the neck of the vase. I had to attach a simple flat “perk” 22 mm wide from a Soviet-era production kit onto a long (300 mm) steel rod with a diameter of 10 mm and clamp it in a powerful drill chuck with a Morse taper (photo 14). The very short base of my machine did not allow me to insert the cartridge into the pi-zero of the tailstock, and the thickness of the rod of the created device did not make it possible to secure it in a 10 mm cartridge conventional drill(9 mm). As a result, when drilling a deep hole in the neck of a rotating vase, I simply had to hold the cartridge in my hand with great effort, resting the rod on the tool rest. Photos 15 and 16 show the initial and final stages of this process. By the way, for ease of further use, the test tube inserted into the neck of the vase should protrude from there by approximately 5 mm.

At the stage finishing bottom, i.e. removing dents from the chuck jaws and leveling the end, it was necessary to unroll the almost finished vase on the machine. First, I machined a support faceplate with a recess for the diameter of the neck (photo 17). I placed it there and supported the bottom with a crown center from behind, into which I inserted an additional homemade narrow nozzle. When I later turned other vases of approximately the same shape, I simply carefully clamped the neck in the chuck using small F-type jaws, placing a strip of plastic more than 1 mm thick under them. A piece of coaxial (antenna) cable will also work as a softening pad.

Photo 18 shows the search for the center on the bottom when for some reason it was not marked or disappeared. The runout is marked with a black felt-tip pen, then you need to tap the mark with a mallet and move the workpiece so that the desired center is in its place. After this, the bottom is processed using a deep-grooved or shallow-grooved chisel (photo 19)

Upon completion of turning, the vase must be dried without cracking. In air, the formation of cracks is almost inevitable, which is aggravated by the large thickness of the vase in the lower part (the thinner the walls of the product, the higher the chance of avoiding cracks, as well as some warping). I dry my products from raw wood in one of two ways: either I put it in a craft paper bag filled with wet shavings of the same tree (photo 20), or I fill the product itself with these shavings, which I then wrap in two layers of newspaper and place on a shelf in the barn. The latter method is especially convenient and effective for bowls and plates with walls 4-8 mm thick, which dry in about two weeks in summer without cracking or warping.

Unfortunately, the formation of cracks in the thick lower part of the apple tree vase could not be avoided even after drying for two months in a craft bag, and circumstances did not allow drying longer. It was necessary to seal the cracks by gluing thin plates of the same material, sawn on band saw and then processed with grinder Proxhop with carbide disc and Black&Decker electric file. The inserts turned out to be almost invisible, but this extra work forced me to reconsider the technique of turning vases in order to make their lower parts hollow to reduce the likelihood of cracking.

I must say that from the very beginning I was nagged by doubts about the legitimacy of the simplified approach, limited to simply drilling a narrow channel in the neck, which can be seen in a number of videos on the Internet. I used to bore cavities in the bottom of vases, but this always presented various difficulties. True, I rarely made vases. Last summer I made a series of vases of a similar shape, and the problem had to be solved radically. From the very beginning, a protrusion is turned at both ends of the cylindrical workpiece. Having formed the external profile of the lower part of the vase, you should immediately begin boring its cavity using a steady rest, holding the workpiece in the chuck by the protrusion in place of the neck. Using a deep or shallow grooved chisel, a hole with a diameter of about 50 mm is bored. through which it will then be possible to insert any of the curved chisels - hinged, with a carbide nozzle or a cutter-nozzle (photo 21), and the residual wall thickness is constantly monitored by calipers.

Upon completion of the boring process, it is necessary to separately grind a plug of a suitable diameter from the same wood material and glue it into the hole of the protrusion (bottom). Here you should estimate the depth of protrusion of the plug into the cavity so that the test tube, which will subsequently rest on it, extends outward by the above-mentioned 5 mm. If the test tube falls into the neck, an additional hassle will arise with gluing a piece of wood to the bottom of the vase through a narrow channel.

I cut off the part of the glued plug that protrudes outward on a band saw. Next, the bottom will be finally processed in the manner already described above.

If the vase has a different shape with a much wider neck, then

The tag will not work here as a vessel with water. What to do? The solution came quite quickly when I took a half-rotten birch suvel with a bright texture, harvested a couple of years ago in the forest, and turned it into a vase with a neck with a diameter of 35 mm. Next, in my supplies, I found a two-meter bright green plastic tube with a diameter of 32 mm and cut a piece about 160 mm long from it on a band saw, deciding to turn it into the required vessel. First, using a gas microburner, I made sure that this plastic is not thermoplastic, i.e., it will not be possible to weld the desired container from it. I had to turn to gluing, first by sawing off another small piece from the original tube and making an additional partial cut on it. Using an industrial hair dryer, I heated the section until it was soft. unfolded it flat, placed it under the press, and after the leveled piece of plastic cooled, using a compass, I drew on it the outline of a circle, which will play the role of the bottom in a tube vessel. Next, I quite accurately, albeit by eye, brought it

size according to internal diameter tubes (28 mm) using a Black&Decker electric file (photo 22). I drove the circle into the tube to a depth of approximately 3-5 mm and filled the outside with a thick layer of fairly universal waterproof superglue “Master” based on vinyl acetate copolymers, which I had had for ten years (photo 23). The bright color of the vessel seemed vulgar to me, so I painted it with brown quick-drying nitrocellulose enamel. Subsequent exposure to water for a month showed the tightness of the manufactured vessel, and the general aesthetic properties of the turned vase with a living goldenrod branch can be assessed in photo 24.

Finally, I would like to note that stores sell a wide variety of plastic water pipes, from which you can easily make any vessels for fresh flowers and place them inside turned wooden vases. Photo 25 shows a number of such products that I created last summer from various types of wood using the method described above.

DIY wooden vase - photo

Photo 1. Cross cutting logs on trestles. Photo 2. Sharpening a roughing chisel on an electric sharpener. Photo 3. Rough processing of the workpiece with a roughing chisel. Photo 4. Forming a protrusion at the end of the cylinder for the cartridge using a cutting chisel. Photo 5. Forming the outer profile of the vase using a finely grooved chisel. Photo 6. Finish scraping the surface with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 7. Finishing the surface using a jamb. Photo 8. Applying decorative beads and grooves with a finely grooved chisel. Photo 9. Trimming the support protrusion with a thin cutting chisel.

Photo 10. Clamping the bottom of the vase in a chuck with support from the tailstock. Photo 11. Fixing the neck of the vase in a homemade lunette. Photo 12. Sealing the vase with cling film. Photo 13. Glass test tube. Photo 14. Homemade perk
Photo 15. Start of drilling a blind hole for a glass test tube.

Photo 16. Stopper in the hole of the vase. Photo 17. Turning the support plate with a hole for the neck of the vase. Photo 18. Reverse fixation of the vase and search for the center at the bottom. Photo 19. Additional processing of the bottom with a finely grooved chisel.

If you have a professional tool at hand, you can master its capabilities endlessly. For example, an ordinary construction lathe is often used as a basis for making souvenirs and various decorative items. Beautifully crafted wooden candlestick on lathe looks great in classic interior Houses. A large vase made of wood can amaze the imagination. Sometimes in my hands experienced craftsman a seemingly ordinary piece of wood turns into a real artistic masterpiece. How do they do it? What else can you grind yourself?

A wood lathe allows you to make not only construction blanks, but also various decorative items, which are designed to please the eye and demonstrate the capabilities of the equipment. Any crafts made from wood are very practical, they will always have a place in the house, so you can safely experiment and try to do something with your own hands. The easiest way is to turn a vase from wood; you can easily get a jug, a salt shaker and a box for storing all sorts of small things. You can suggest making chess.

Vase

How can you make a vase on a lathe? To make it, you may need a certain tool. In addition to the lathe, you need to take cutters, a plane, a hacksaw, a ruler, a compass, an ax and a saw, sanding paper and a chisel.

The process of turning a vase is extremely simple. True, it should be noted that vases can be complex in configuration and simple. Let's look at how you can carve a simple option.

• First, a block of wood 10-20 cm long is cut out with a saw.
• It must be trimmed with a plane, both from the ends and along the length.
• The workpiece is installed in the machine chuck.
• The machine is turned on and checked for runout of the part.
• If it is present, alignment must be carried out.
• The top layer of wood is removed to a depth of 1 cm.
• A chamfer is removed at an angle of 45° from the outer end.
• IN tailstock the drill is inserted.
• A hole is drilled with a depth less than the length of the workpiece by 3-5 cm. That is, the bottom of the vase is determined.
• Now, using a cutting tool called a jamb, the cavity of the product is cut out.

Since the vase can have different shapes: straight, oval, and so on, then the boring of the upper surface is maintained accordingly precise shape. After which the product is polished outside and inside. What is sandpaper used for? The wooden product is removed from the machine, the bottom is finished by hand using a plane and sandpaper. After which the souvenir is varnished.

Chess

Chess figures are small, so their production requires certain experience and the firmness of the turner’s hand, as well as his eye. To make a figure you will need a small block of wood with a cross section of 50x50 or 60x60 mm. On one side, it is formed into a smaller section, for example, 40x40 or 30x30 mm, as shown in the video.

With this smaller end, the workpiece is inserted and clamped into the chuck. Now you need to cut the free end of the blank with a cutter and press it with the center of the tailstock. A layer of wood is removed with a cutter so that the workpiece becomes round section. After which you can begin making the chess piece itself. You can use traditional forms, or you can get creative.

As soon as the figure is completely ready, it must be sanded and finally cut off from the pressed part of the workpiece. All that remains is to manually varnish it or paint it black or White color. By the way, a wooden candlestick is made on a lathe in exactly the same way. Its length is greater, which means a longer workpiece will be needed.

Making a box

The box is not the most difficult element that can be turned on a lathe. But if this is a product with a lid, then drawings will be required here. After all, the lid must fit into the box and sit on the groove, that is, the lid must be flush with the edge of the product itself.

To make a box, you will need a cylindrical blank, which is installed in a lathe. The main thing is that the workpiece does not reach the bed.

• First, a layer of wood is removed with a semicircular cutter to give the workpiece a rounded shape.
• Then you need to work the surface with a joint, that is, make it smooth.
• After which it is necessary to form an internal cavity wooden product. For this, a narrow straight cutter is used. This operation cannot be completed in one pass, so it will have to be carried out in stages.
• Using a triangular cutter, you can expand the internal cavity to the thickness of the walls.
• The bottom of the box is leveled with a straight but wide chisel. They also make the groove for the lid.
• The internal and external surfaces are polished.
• Apply varnish on top, wax on the inside.

The lid is made of the same material as the box itself. It just requires a thin workpiece, which is fixed in the chuck of a woodworking lathe. First, processing is carried out with a wide straight cutter, that is, it is formed inner part, it can be flat or concave inward. Sanding is required.

Then the outer part is formed, for which the workpiece will have to be turned over. That is, the half-finished part of the lid is cut off and the almost finished inside installed in the cartridge. Then, the same cutter is used to form the outer side of the lid. It can also be flat or convex. Finally, sanding is carried out. Then ready product varnished.

In principle, the order in which the sides are made can be changed if there is a handle-holder on the lid. To do this, you will have to take a thicker workpiece to sharpen the handle. It can be round, oval or shaped. You can make the handle as a separately turned element and attach it to the lid of the box with adhesive.

The diameter of the lid must correspond to the diameter of the inner groove of the box. That is, the cover should fit freely into the groove.

These are the products you can make with your own hands on a wood lathe. The most difficult of the above decorative items- this is a box. Here it is necessary to strictly adhere to the dimensions, especially with regard to wall thickness. We made it a little thinner, and there is a high probability that it will burst over time. In addition, you will have to strictly adhere to the diameters of the lid and groove on the box itself. If one of the sizes does not match, then either the lid will fall inside the box, or it will end up on the edge of the product.

Therefore, when turning on a lathe homemade crafts wood requires attention and accuracy (the work is not rough). Of course, it is necessary to take measurements with a caliper during the work process.

Wooden vases fit perfectly into any interior, and with their own appearance they can add zest to the design and serve as its accent. To decorate your home in this way, you don’t have to spend a lot of money on purchasing them.

DIY wooden vase

In order to make such a Vase with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

Preparation of the workplace

As usual, the first thing you need to do is equip your workplace on which you will work. The rules are not complicated: there should be no unnecessary things on the table, all the tools should be in their place and at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop, and you’ve probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult, but choosing a place for it in the house is more difficult. A good option- this is an insulated balcony on which you can start working on your craft at any time. If you have a specially equipped room with a workbench, then you are lucky. In a separate article you can read about where I tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire process of its creation. After you have completed the process of creating a workplace, you can proceed directly to your future craft.

Plywood selection

The main elements will fit on A4 plywood, since some parts need to be made in several copies, you will need several blanks. The thickness of the plywood should be from 2.5 to 3 mm, and depending on the thickness, sawing should be done along the internal or external contour, this is important for the grooves into which the elements of the craft are inserted. Before transferring the drawing to plywood, sand the workpiece with coarse sandpaper and then with fine sandpaper. Wrap wooden block sandpaper and then start sanding. Sand the prepared plywood along the layers, not across. A well-polished surface should be flat, completely smooth, glossy-matte in the light and silky to the touch. Pay attention to grain placement, knots, dents and other imperfections. Quality and color. If the plywood is not of very high quality and delaminates when sawing, read the recommendations for elimination.

Transferring the design to plywood

You need to translate the drawing accurately and carefully: secure the drawing using buttons, double-sided masking tape, or simply hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the individual parts so that you can use the plywood sheet as economically as possible. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing. If time is short, then to speed up the translation process you can use the technique of quickly translating a drawing; for this, I suggest you read the article in the tips section:.

Cutting out a vase from plywood with a jigsaw

There are many rules for cutting, but you need to rely on the most common ones. First you should cut out the internal elements and then start cutting out the outline. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep it straight at a 90 degree angle when cutting. Saw out the parts along precisely marked lines. The movements of the jigsaw should always be smooth up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and unevenness. If you go off the line while cutting, don't worry. Such bevels and irregularities can later be removed using a flat file or “coarse-grained” sandpaper.

Rest

Fatigue occurs when sawing. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. When working, of course, everyone gets tired, but in order to reduce the load, do a couple of exercises. You can watch the exercises. Do this several times as you work.

Assembling a vase from plywood

The assembly of the Vase parts in this work is simple. When assembling, refer to the drawing. If some parts are not included in the required parts, file them down. When the craft is assembled without problems, glue it together. The dish must be glued using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue.

Varnishing crafts

If desired, the dish can be varnished with stain to resemble valuable types of wood, or simply transparent; this is not necessary, but it will add greater individuality to your craft. Try to choose a good and high-quality varnish. do it with a special brush, take your time. Try not to leave any visible streaks of bubbles or lint from the brush.

Vases can become wonderful decoration interior You can even create some of them yourself. Vases can be decorated and transformed very quickly, even with your own hands. This will allow you to create more and more new distinctive features in the interior.

1. Original filling of the vase

An excellent option for filling a vase using wine corks, with the help of which the vase is immediately transformed.

2. Lemon vase

A simple, but at the same time very bright option for decorating a vase using lemon decor, which will be just a godsend.

3. Small vases made from bottles

A beautiful option to create many mini-vases with your own hands from ordinary bottles.

4. The vase is decorated with beads

It is possible to transform and decorate a vase with the help of beads, which will create a truly beautiful vase in a minimum of time and money.

5. Wooden vase decor

Nice decoration of a vase using branches, which will add lightness and unobtrusiveness to the interior of any room.

6. Stylish and simple vases

Beautiful design of small vases that will decorate any home.

7. Vases are decorated with cord

Using thread or cord, you can create unforgettable vases that will be simply an excellent solution for decoration.

8. Regular bottle design

An excellent option is to decorate an ordinary bottle in the form of a beautiful vase, which you will definitely like.
9. Transformation of bottles

A cute solution to create from ordinary bottles beautiful vases that will be a godsend.

10. Decorating vases with sparkles

An original solution for decorating vases using gold sparkles.

11. Cute glitter vase

A great option to create an original and pretty shiny vase that will decorate any interior.

12. The vase is decorated as a candlestick

One of the fastest and simple options, so this is the creation of a candlestick from a vase.

13. Perfect combination

If you combine several bottles of the same shape, you can get a custom vase with cells like this.

14. Vase made of tree branches

Cute and very interesting option create a vase from tree branches that will transform the interior of any room.

15. Bright painting of a bottle decorated as a vase

An excellent and very interesting option for painting a bottle that became a vase very quickly and easily.

16. Original tied bottles

Decorating bottles is a very interesting and difficult moment that is worth taking note of and making the most of in practice.

17. Vase decor using pencils

An original option is to decorate a vase using ordinary colored pencils, which will be a godsend for any interior.

18. Decorating bottles with thread

Nice idea to decorate regular bottles using a thread, which will simply be a discovery and will allow you to create original vases.

19. Decorating an ordinary transparent vase

Quick and simple decoration of an ordinary vase, which in as soon as possible will transform the interior.

20. Painting wine bottles

Decoration wine bottles with help hand painted, what could be even more attractive than this.

21. Vase decor using wood

An original design of a flower vase using wood, which looks charming and delicate.

22. Custom wire vases

Beautiful and perhaps very original version create a vase out of wire, which looks very interesting.

23. Excellent table decor

One of the best and simplest options for decorating a table is using a cute vase that you will like.

24. Cute DIY vases

You can decorate any of the vases with your own hands in a wide variety of ways that you will definitely like and inspire.

25. Successful vase decor

A nice solution to elevate an ordinary transparent vase using burlap and accessories.

26. New Year's vases

Interesting decor of vases in a New Year's style, which will simply be the highlight of any interior.

27. Original vase with a transparent bottom

A nice and very interesting example of designing a vase with a transparent bottom, which will become a feature of the interior.