DIY wooden rabbit cage. Learning to make cages for rabbits

This article is addressed to beginning rabbit breeders. I have collected 7 detailed instructions on how to make rabbit cages with your own hands. You can breed both ordinary and decorative ones - the first for meat and skin, the second for mood.

Cages are most often made of plywood or chipboard, from which the walls and roof are made. The frame is made of boards or timber, which also serve as “legs” or supports. If the cells are in the open air, then a roof is made of roofing material, for example, from a metal profile.

Video - building a cage for rabbits step by step

The first guide I want to put is this video material, which shows the stages of building a three-tier cage for rabbits in an accessible, understandable and without unnecessary movements and words. The design is comfortable and practical. The waste is discharged through inclined trays and the cages are always dry.

Rabbit cage drawing and general information

Knowing the required space for the life of one rabbit, you can calculate the future volume of the cage or enclosure. It should also be taken into account that for better development, the rabbit also needs space to move.

The figure provides general information about rabbits, their average height, length, minimal space for their living and walking area. The minimum width of the cage is the size of the rabbit when stretched, the minimum length of the cage is 3-4 rabbit jumps, the minimum height is so that the rabbit can stand on its hind legs and not touch the ceiling.

First, I will show you a drawing of a simple cage for rabbits for a small family. This cage can be made in order to raise several animals for food by the fall.

Another interesting drawing cages for rabbits with a walking area right on the ground. This design mobile and can be moved around the site so that rabbits always have access to greenery.

There is information for summer residents on how to build a cage for keeping domestic rabbits in just half a day. The cages are built from three to four layers of plywood and galvanized mesh.

The design of a cage with bunker feeders and nurseries for roughage is well described. The floor in the cage is made of mesh, the roof is made of plywood. On this site you can see detailed photographs, as well as find out the optimal dimensions of the structure.

Schemes and drawings of cages for rabbits

Here are the sketches different options“houses” for rabbits: cages, barrels and cages themselves. A diagram of a cage for 2 adult rabbits is shown. The drawing of a simple cage for young animals shows the dimensions that will be useful to you when making it yourself.

Video - cages for rabbits Zolotukhin

You can watch a video with the participation of Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. He talks about the design of his redesigned rabbit hutches. In these cages the floor is made of flat slate, and the mesh (5 cm wide) is fixed only at the rear edge of the cage.

This allows you to do multi-story cells and makes cleaning easier. Very useful experience! The master also talks about some important elements cages, for example, about an overturning feeder, which is convenient to fill and clean.

Mikhailov mini-farm - drawing

You can see Mikhailov’s legendary mini-farm here:

In such mini-farms, professional breeders breed rabbits. You will see in the photo detailed analysis mini-farm designs. Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions are given.

Such cages are equipped with automatic drinking bowls and feeders for animals, which allows them to be fed without rationing. And as a result, such mini-farms are simply created for the reproduction of animals. And this will increase the profits of farmers using Mikhailov’s mini-farms!

This “apartment” house for rabbits from the portal “Ya-Fermer.ru”

made according to the drawings of Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The master writes about the advantages and disadvantages of these cells. He gained this experience after using and caring for rabbits in these cages for one winter.

You will see unique photos of the author. Next, the author provides a photo of the step-by-step development of his own project of cages for rabbits. You can watch a video of making a drinking bowl, feeder and manger for roughage. Very interesting unique material!

If you are a non-professional rabbit breeder and are just starting to breed rabbits, then this article is for you. Here is another author's model of a simple one-story rabbit cage with a drawing. This is more of a one-story residential complex for furry animals. The floor in the cage can be made of mesh or slats.

Video on making a cage using this drawing

Discussion of a rabbitry with queen cells made of clapboard

the master posted a photo of a rabbitry with queen cells for 6 females. Very beautiful outdoor cages made of clapboard! Forum participants criticized the master. An interesting argument even arose between them.

We encourage you to read the criticisms and take them into account when building cages for your rabbits! Moreover, the author put the rabbitry up for public discussion, which means he wanted to ask experts what needs to be corrected. Consider the advice of experienced rabbit breeders!

Raising and breeding rabbits is a profitable activity. If you create for animals optimal conditions residence and growth, then with a minimum of costs you can get quite a big benefit. It is of considerable importance to independently prepare nutritious food and make cages for rabbits with your own hands. The article offers a guide to the process of making houses with photos and watching videos.

Preparatory work

Before you build a rabbit cage, you need to thoroughly think over the design and make a drawing. The dimensions will be indicated on it, and the details of the rabbit cage will be drawn separately. Dimensional drawings or diagrams will help you accurately calculate the quantity necessary materials, which is quite difficult to do without accurately drawing all the details. The drawing will also be needed if the design changes during the assembly process, it will be clearly visible which elements need to be redone and which ones should be left the same.

Types of cells by design

General requirements Do-it-yourself homemade rabbit cages include:

• required space, expressed by floor area;
• ease of manufacture;
• ease of cleaning, disinfection, feeding and transplanting;
• long-term operation;
• inexpensive cost of materials and the resulting final product.

A common and convenient option for a do-it-yourself cage for a domestic rabbit is double rooms connected in pairs. Such designs are perfectly used when raising young rabbits, but there are also other options for connecting and placing rabbit houses:

• single-section;
• compact sets consisting of three sections;
• group cells big size for young animals.

In order not to waste extra space, cages are made depending on the age of the animal, its breed (height) and the number of representatives in the house. The standard sizes are:

Main stock rabbits are raised in single-tier and two-tier cages, but in a rabbitry it is better to use single-tier houses. If animals are bred for meat, then houses can be built in three tiers, although such a multi-story house for rabbits has not become particularly popular.

In a multi-tiered structure cleaning of manure becomes difficult, it is inconvenient to carry out feeding, preventive examination of pets of the lower and upper tier takes significantly longer. Mechanical distribution of feed is practically impossible. A lot of effort and expense is required to heat such piles; ventilation and lighting of the premises becomes difficult.

A do-it-yourself cage for rabbits is made from mesh with holes 2.5 by 5.0 cm or 2.5 by 2.5 cm. Galvanized or plastic-coated metal mesh with smaller cells is used on the floors. Sometimes the floor is made of hardwood, it is assembled from slats with a cross-section of 2.5 by 3.0 cm; during the manufacturing process of the floor, the sharp edges of the slats are rounded and cleaned sandpaper. The slats are placed at a distance of 1.6–1.8 cm from one another.

Young rabbits during the period of fattening and growth they are kept in the same room, so a separate house is made for them, appearance which can be seen in the photo.

Newborn baby rabbits with female rabbit also placed in a common separate room, then the house is made into two sections for the main livestock of young animals and the uterine compartment. It is recommended to keep male rabbits in a different compartment. Crowded cages will have a negative impact on the growth of young rabbits, as they will not be able to be active. Do-it-yourself houses are located on a certain elevation from the general floor in the room or the ground.

Material for making rabbit houses

It is advisable to choose for cell construction natural material(thick plywood, bars, boards, wooden slats). The grid is described above and the dimensions of its cells are given. Used to cover the roof various materials, you can use the remains from covering the house. For connection wooden parts you need screws and nails, you will need iron sheets and devices for hanging cage doors, locking devices in the form of hooks or latches.

One of the options The material for the walls is adobe, brick, various waste building materials. The roof is covered with roofing felt, roofing felt, or a straw covering can be made. Straw is used for winter insulation walls and floor. If they make cages that can be carried or moved, then this is especially important for choosing the optimal location in winter cold and turning the façade of the house in the warmest direction.

Choosing an installation location

Popular with farmers installing rabbit houses outside, that is, in the open air. Home cages are placed at a height of 0.5 m from the ground and equipped with a good-quality roof. In this case, the problem with ventilation is spontaneously solved, and the animals receive natural sunlight. In winter, in addition to insulation, the cages are wrapped in polyethylene to protect against cold winds.

The houses have their entrances facing south and are located in places that are windproof and calm from strong winds, without drafts. To make it easier to clean up after your pets, a ditch is made under the cage to drain waste. IN summer period the cages are covered with suitable material from direct sun or a removable canopy is made.

Making cages for rabbits with your own hands

Offered step-by-step instructions for building rabbit houses, details can be seen in the photo and video:

Options for cage arrangement and features of animal separation

Houses for female rabbits with offspring They make them paired and house two females with a brood in separate rooms. The cage can be made as an option for temporary overexposure or permanent housing for rabbits, it all depends on the size. The last type of room involves dividing it into two 45 cm wide and separating it from the feeding area by a partition with continuous filling. Sometimes it is more convenient to make the partition removable. After dismantling the wall, such a room is used to keep young rabbits without a mother.

In order to most completely isolate the housing and feeding area, a hinged shield is made that does not stop the animal from moving between compartments. If there is no partition and hinged shield, then a queen cell is placed in the compartment. In the nesting compartment, a shelf is made for the suckling queen during her rest. Its recommended dimensions are 26–30 cm; the shelf is placed at a height of 25–32 cm from the floor surface.

If the cage has a solid floor made of tightly planed boards, then it is provided slight slope towards the front edge, where a small gap is left, about 2–2.5 cm wide, for liquid to drain. This cage design is suitable for keeping young rabbits, if size allows. The queen cell is removed, and the rabbit uterus is transplanted to another room.

In order for the rabbits to feel at ease, up to 2.5 months the size of the area per pet should be calculated at 0.2 square meters. m per individual. As the rabbit grows, the housing area per head is calculated at 0.35–0.4 square meters. m per animal. If the conditions are not met, then the rabbits are transplanted from other housing facilities or an enclosure is made for young individuals.

IN summer time year or in a warm climate zone, cages are allowed, four walls completely covered with mesh, the roof remains solid. Half of the cage is separated by a partition and used for raising young animals, taking into account living standards. The second half is used as a walking area for rabbits, which develop poorly without movement. In warm weather, this option is considered ideal.

In summer, mesh cages contain a uterus with a brood, while a hole measuring 25 by 42 centimeters is made in the middle wall, stopping the movement of small rabbits with a closing valve. In such houses you can accommodate up to 15 heads of young individuals.

On the front side of the door on hinges or hinges made from different materials . The right one, which opens the entrance to the sleeping compartment, should preferably be made of a solid covering; it is rarely used and is constantly closed. Its use is provided only in case of replacement of the litter. For the convenience of the rabbits, the bottom of this room is lined with solid material, for example, linoleum, and a layer of hay or small sawdust is poured on top.

The left door operates more often and should not be blind; it is often made of mesh, so it is more convenient to observe the feeding of pets, add food to them and pour water. The feeder in the feeding compartment is in a vertical position. The material for its walls is steel wire, which is located at a distance of 30 mm from one another. At intervals, the animal pulls out its food (grass or hay).

Rabbit poop area provided in one of the corners of the dining room. To prevent urine and feces from being retained, the floor is made of mesh, through which waste products fall into a drain pan or gutter, from where they are easily washed out with water. To prevent the development of unsanitary conditions, you need to ensure that no food waste or feces is left on the mesh bottom.

Having completed the construction of the rabbitry, I want the building to serve faithfully long time, so some people unknowingly begin to treat wood with various antiseptic solutions. This cannot be done, as pets love to chew on the cage and chemicals. harmful substances may cause poisoning of animals.

How to build a rabbit cage yourself? This question usually arises among beginners who decide to start rabbit farming. Experienced farmers usually develop designs that are convenient for themselves, making it easier to care for animals.

Cells can have different structures and be made from a variety of materials. They are made completely simple or additionally equipped with “conveniences”, such as running water or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of retreat materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with carpentry and plumbing tools.

Cell placement

• 1 Placement of cells
  • 1.1 Street cages
  • 1.2 Cages placed indoors
  • 1.3 Combined version of rabbit breeding
• 2 Cell design and size
  • 2.1 Single-tier and multi-tier structures
  • 2.2 Cages for breeding
  • 2.3 Cages for young animals
  • 2.4 Cage for adult rabbits
  • 2.5 Cage with aviary for walking
  • 2.6 Cages for giant rabbits
  • 2.7 Cage for Californian rabbits
• 3 Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
  • 3.1 Drinkers
    • 3.1.1 Automatic drinkers
    • 3.1.2 Nipple drinkers
    • 3.1.3 Vacuum drinker
    • 3.1.4 Throttle drinker
    • 3.1.5 Hanging drinker
  • 3.2 Feeders
• 4 Self-production multi-tiered cage
• 5 Video: an interesting version of cages for rabbits

Rabbit cages can be located in utility rooms, such as a barn, or directly on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:

• Year-round outdoor placement of cages, when animals are constantly outdoors.
• Keeping pets indoors all year round.
• Combined breeding option, that is, in winter period rabbits are indoors, and with the onset warm weather are transferred to the street.

Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the most in the best possible way Breeding these animals involves keeping them outdoors all year round, as this promotes the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when raising rabbits outdoors, the productivity of females significantly improves, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.

Street cages

Rabbit cages are most often installed outdoors if you plan to breed a large number of animals - a hundred or more animals.

Convenience of arranging rabbit hutches in street conditions is to have more space and ease of care for your “menagerie”, since each of the cells needs periodic cleaning.

For construction street cells are used enough durable materials, since the design must be reliable and stable - these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse natural factors, as well as from penetration into the cells of predatory animals - dogs, foxes, cats or rats.

It is advisable that the building be located under a canopy with a large front canopy so that any precipitation, as well as direct sunlight, do not bother the pets too much.

If the rabbits will be outside all year round, then it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures well, but it would still be a good idea to create for them comfortable conditions and a special place where they can warm themselves on particularly cold days and nights.

Cages placed indoors

Cages placed in windproof areas can be made entirely of metal mesh attached to wooden frame, have a wooden slatted floor. If breeding pets is carried out indoors, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.

Combined rabbit breeding option

In another case, if funds and space allow, cages are built in two places - both on the street and in a barn. This type of farming is unlikely suitable for those farmers who breed a large number of pets, since installing winter and summer cages will require a fairly large area.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose - for breeding, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Cells can be single-tiered or multi-tiered, but they are arranged in no more than three tiers.

• Single-tier cells

Single-tier buildings are raised above the ground by 700–800 mm and covered with a roof made of slate or metal sheet. If this option of buildings will be located on the street, then it is better to choose slate roof, since the metal heats up quickly, and rabbits do not tolerate extreme heat very well.

To collect and dispose of animal waste, a metal tray made in the form of a drain is often installed in a single-tier cage for the convenience of its regular cleaning.

• Multi-tiered cells

More often, multi-tiered cages are practiced, which can have two or three tiers, and on each of which a different number of sections are placed. Such structures are most often made of bars, boards and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits both outdoors and indoors.

Such cage designs are called sheds - in them, tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.

A two-tier design is considered the best option, as it will allow for comfortable care and monitoring of pets.

It is recommended to raise the shad above the ground by 500–600 mm when installed indoors, and by 700–750 mm when installed outdoors. This cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 150 mm high between each of the tiers. A sloping metal roof is installed over the cages. In the space between the tiers and under the lower tier, inclined tides are fixed. They are necessary so that rabbit waste does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows to the ground or into a common or separate drain for each tier located at the back of the structure. At each of these ebbs, sides are bent on the sides to prevent waste from falling beyond this plane.

Some owners prefer to use removable plastic trays, which are mounted on skids under the slatted floor and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.

Another option is for the trays to be installed directly in the cages. In addition, sometimes cages are made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably still not very convenient, since the bedding in the cages will have to be changed quite often - once every two to three days.

Cages for breeding

In cages intended for breeding, special chambers are installed on the sides, or space is provided for installing a mobile queen cell. In a design with a stationary compartment, the walls, removable floor and ceiling are made solid, since it must be well insulated and not blown through by drafts, otherwise the rabbits will die.

The floor in the rest of the cage, where the food section is located, is made of wooden blocks or metal mesh.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with a round hole for entry. The box should also have an additional side door to allow it to be cleaned and dried.

A mobile queen cell is convenient because it can be rearranged, if necessary, into different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change bedding.

This chamber is insulated with dry, mold-free hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbits, and they will die.

If breeding is carried out in winter, then a few days before it, it is recommended to place an electric heating pad in the queen cell to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit.

During the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine tract, so instead of a heating pad, you can also use a regular light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Having chosen this heating option, it is necessary to take care of fire safety, so the chamber where the lamp will be located must be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.

Another way to heat this part of the cage is a heating cable for the “warm floor” system, which is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. When using this option, it is imperative to ensure that the cable located in the cage is solid, without splicing. This system, installed in accordance with all the rules, allows you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment depending on the temperature outside - it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.

For cages located indoors in barns, it is best to make queen cells mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, ventilation and drying in the sun. If a built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.

Each section of cells of this type usually has a length of 1000×1200 mm, a depth of 550×650 mm, a height along the front side of 550×600 mm and 400×450 mm along the rear wall. The built-in uterine chamber is made 350×400 mm wide.

Cages for young animals

Cages for young animals should be designed to accommodate 8–20 rabbits at a time, aged from three to five months. A group cage is made with an area of ​​approximately 0.25 - 0.3 m? per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.

If the cages are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by at least 700–750 mm.

In cages for young animals, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter, in approximately the same way as for newborn rabbits. For insulation, hay or straw is used, laid 15–20 mm thick. You should not choose for insulation artificial materials, as they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.

Cage for adult rabbits

For adult rabbits of medium-sized breeds, cages are made with sections 600–700 mm deep, a front height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm - these are the minimum dimensions for comfortable development adult animal. The same block design is used for these cells; each block contains two cells separated by a wall.

It is also necessary to provide for the union of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period - for this, the partition between them is made removable. It is recommended to make the floor in cages for adults from galvanized mesh.

It is very important to take into account that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

This cage design is well suited for keeping young animals or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments - an area completely enclosed by walls and a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut into the rear wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cages have the opportunity to move freely and safely, which is beneficial for their development and growth.

The dimensions of such structures may vary, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600×650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800×1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cages, and then, if there is space behind it, a mesh enclosure is attached to it.

Cages for giant rabbits

Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-skin breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are built for them, but those with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. These numbers must be used as a starting point when drawing up a construction design drawing.

For one adult “giant” rabbit, you will need a cage measuring at least 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600×700 mm in height.

For young animals of this breed, in one litter of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.

Since “giant” rabbits have quite a lot of weight, the floor of the cage should be reinforced - it is also covered with galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2×2.2 mm. In addition, to prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animal, when making the floor it is necessary to first secure bars measuring 30×30 mm, laid at a distance of 35×40 mm from each other, and then lay and secure a metal mesh on top of them.

Some farmers lay a solid floor in their cages, but in this case, the most the best option will install plastic or rubber trays in them. If you choose this option for arranging the cage, then you will have to clean it of waste daily or once every two days.

California rabbit cage

This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, the Soviet chinchilla and the Russian ermine) is quite popular due to its ease of care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adult individuals of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450×500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches up to 4.5×5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be approximately 0.4 x 0.5 m in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with coarse hair, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floors.

When California rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit measuring 2000 x 2000 and 1000 mm deep. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floors, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is built.

An earthen niche is made in one of the walls of the pit, which is not reinforced in any way. It is necessary to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will happily dig holes in the ground, and with proper care they will reproduce well and raise young on their own.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

To make caring for your pets easier, it is worth considering a convenient supply of food and water for them. There are many different designs, both feeders and drinkers. They can be purchased ready-made or even made yourself.

Drinking bowls

Rabbits need large quantities clean water and if you pour it into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then various debris will fall into it, or, even worse, a rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply knock it over and spill water.

It is very important to decide on the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will chew them. In metal cans, water will quickly become dirty and cloudy. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders have developed several simple designs that allow them to constantly provide the animals with the necessary amount of water.

Automatic drinkers

This type of drinker is often used both on large farms and in small households. The design of this drinking bowl consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in the cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.

The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple - as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion of liquid will flow into it from the container. In this case, the float system is triggered - there is little water left in the bowl, so the valve installed in the container opens and the drinking bowl is replenished with water. It is quite difficult to make such a drinking bowl yourself, but it can be purchased ready-made.

Nipple drinkers

The nipple type of drinker is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot spill the water - it remains in the tube until the rabbit begins to drink, performing sucking movements.

The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that at low temperatures the water in the container and in the tubes quickly freezes, so this drinker can only be used in the warm season.

Vacuum drinker

There are several ways to make a drinking bowl from a regular plastic bottle, and they should be considered, so the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.

The operating principle of this design is based on the laws of physics, and to make it, you need to proceed as follows:

• A bowl with a flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and an elongated shape is fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage and the other remains outside.

• A regular plastic bottle of two or one and a half liters is filled with water. The bottle is then closed with a cap or even a piece of paper, which is pressed firmly to the neck. Next, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach the bottom 2-3 mm. The bottle is then secured to the cage using wire or clamps.
• The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl is filled with water by about ?. As your pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle into the bowl, filling it to its previous level.

This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand washbasin, that is, when you press the throttle installed together with the valve in the bottle cap, water begins to flow down the throttle through the resulting hole.

The hole in the cover should not be large, but the throttle should move up and down easily in it. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve, which holds the throttle well and covers the hole in the bottle cap in a calm state.

The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250–300 mm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

This is a very simple version of a drinking bowl, made from a plastic bottle; it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250–300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinker, a cutout is made in the side of the bottle, 100×120 mm wide and almost the entire length of the bottle, 50×60 mm away from the lid and bottom.

The drinking bowl is fixed on the outside of the cage so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the mesh wall is also cut out so that the rabbits can easily reach the water. Such a drinking bowl will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely simple to manufacture.

Feeders

It is advisable to plan the feeders at the stage of drawing up the drawing of the entire structure. Feed supply devices can be of three types:

• Senniki are most often located between two adjacent cells and have a V-shape. They are made together with the design of the cell itself - they are, in fact, its integral part. Fresh grass or dry hay is placed in these feeders, and the rabbits pull it out through the lattice walls.

• Feeder for filling feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which contributes to the rapid growth of animals. This food is especially important in winter time when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.

Feeders for mixed feed can be made of metal sheet, plastic pipe, used for laying sewers or from other materials. An important condition, which must be fulfilled for efficient work This device is responsible for the correct and reliable fastening of the container to the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that food independently enters a bowl located in the cage from a container fixed outside it, as it decreases.

• A device for vegetables, fruits, tops and other fresh shredded products can be made of any material. It is made spacious and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise harmful insects may grow in and around it, which can cause various diseases in animals.

Making your own multi-tiered cage

Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to draw up an accurate drawing of a cage or multi-tiered complex. It is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers on the plan, especially in cases where they will be built into the overall structure.

In this case, a step-by-step description of the manufacture of a three-tier cage with a width of 1400 mm, a height of 1900 mm and a depth of 600 mm is presented.

For work you will need the following materials:

The table below describes the cage installation process step by step:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	From the purchased boards it is necessary to make parts for mounting the frame: - 100×30×2250 mm – 4 pcs.; - 50?30?1340 mm – 12 pcs.; - 50?30?540 mm – 12 pcs.; - 25?30?540 mm – 72 pcs.
	Six identical frame frames measuring 1340×600 mm are assembled from prepared lumber.
	Making frames is easy. First, one is assembled with precise dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for making the rest. To assemble each frame, you will need two beams measuring 50x30x540 mm and two beams measuring 50x30x1340 mm. Smaller bars are secured between two long ones using two self-tapping screws at each connection
	The result of installation should be six neat, even frames of the same size.
	The next step is to position the frames and fasten them onto boards measuring 100 x 30 x 2250 mm, laid at a distance the width of the frame. The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm. The space left between tiers is 180 mm. The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground. The frames are secured with two self-tapping screws, screwed in along the diagonal intersection line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards.
	The next step is to fasten the frames along the top edge with two boards laid parallel to the bottom ones. It is important here to ensure that the frames are perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, a building level is used.
	Next, the blocks for installation of the grated floor are prepared. Their size should be 25?30?540 mm.
	The distance between the sheathing bars should be 15×20 mm (lightwise). They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, on the side, secured with self-tapping screws on both sides.
	The floor of the cells on all three tiers is lined in exactly the same way. If it is planned to make a queen cell on one of the tiers, where breeding occurs, and where the rabbits will be kept until a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable. The arrangement of the queen cell was described above.
	Will each of the tiers be divided into two separate cells? between which a hay box is mounted in the shape of the Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be placed here. The sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame. The size of the hay is 150×200 mm in the upper part, and 6×8 mm in the lower part. Naturally, it is necessary to achieve a clear correspondence in the location of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame.
	To ensure that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, the hay can be made from boards, cutting off one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them at the bottom from the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the hay barn will be smooth and will act as a wall to which the door will adjoin. In addition, the front parts of the hay barn can be cut from plywood 15 mm thick.
	The frame of the hay barn is sheathed inside along installed bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a mesh of 0.7 mm wire with cells of 25×25 mm.
	If you plan to make a queen cell in the cage, then it is separated from the cage by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance. To make it easier to attach this wall, additional bars are mounted into the structure, to which the plywood jumper will be attached.
	The entrance to the wall can be round or semicircular, but it must be located at a height of 100–120 mm from the floor of the cage - this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can overcome this height on their own. The width of the entrance to the queen cell should be approximately 150 mm. After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned with sandpaper, since its edges must be absolutely smooth.
	The width of the queen cell is usually 300×350 mm. The jumper wall is fixed on the bars, then the same wall is mounted with outside cages, and then the roof panel is fixed. If in the main space of the cage the roof can be covered with a metal mesh, then in the queen cell it should be continuous. Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the queen cell compartment. However, it should not be secured to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and are moved to other, more spacious cages, the bottom part is removed from the uterine chamber, washed, dried and put in place for the next birth.
	The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a hinged external door on it across the entire width of the chamber. At the bottom, the door is secured to the beam with two metal hinges.
	A latch lock or latch is installed in the middle of the upper part of the door panel.
	Next, the door frame for the cage is made from 30×30 mm bars. It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall. The door frame bars are fastened together at the corners with two self-tapping screws.
	The illustration shows the finished door frame before it is covered with metal mesh.
	The mesh is fixed to the frame using staples and a stapler - such fixation will be quite sufficient.
	A door with a mesh installed on the inside looks like this.
	Hinges on mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (in which case the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in which case it will be hinged). It all depends on ease of use in specific conditions.
	If the cages will be installed under a roof, for example, in a barn or other indoor utility room, then the walls and roof of the cages can also be lined with mesh. When installing the structure outdoors, the side and rear walls and roof must be covered with plywood or boards
	It is very important to make the correct tides under each tier of cages so that animal waste from the upper cages does not fall into the lower ones. To make ebbs, a metal sheet is used, on which the edges are folded on the sides - these sides should have a height of 80×100 mm. The ebbs are attached to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and its other edge is placed on the rear wall of the lower cage and extends beyond it by 300–350 mm. Thus, the ebb tides are tilted and they protrude back beyond the structure so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbitry from the front side.
	The result should be something like this cell. In terms of complexity, this design option can be called the simplest and most accessible even for beginners.

If you understand the principles of constructing cages for rabbits, then when drawing up a drawing, if desired, you can make your own adjustments. But it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit requires at least 0.5 m? living space. Better yet, stick to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600? 700 – in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm – in height.

And at the end of the article, there is a video in which the rabbit breeder shares the secrets of the design of improved cages:

Almost every owner country house there is a small farm. Some people prefer to raise cattle, others poultry, and others like to raise fluffy and adorable rabbits. But for any household it is worth considering comfortable living conditions. If you have chosen rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance on the location of the cages, their size and internal contents.

On your own personal plot cages with living creatures can be placed:

• on open air;
• indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

• year-round outdoor seating;
• year-round indoor maintenance;
• combined maintenance (outdoors in summer, in a barn in winter).

Many rabbit breeders believe that the best option for placing cages is to arrange them outdoors. This content has a beneficial effect on animals, promotes the development of immunity to diseases, and the presence of beautiful and high-quality hair. Breeding outdoors increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and promotes their endurance.

When choosing a place to install the cage, you should consider:

• air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from bodies of water;
• exposure to direct sunlight, which has a negative effect on animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
• the presence of drafts, which are common cause rabbit diseases. Air movement should not exceed 30 m/s. Do not forget about high-quality ventilation in cages. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

Street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

• sizes;
• structures;
• manufacturing materials.

They are simple, two-tiered with additional amenities, such as heating. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm largely depends on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of setting up rabbit hutches outdoors include:

• availability of large space;
• ease of caring for animals;
• the ability to build convenient and affordable structures.

To build outdoor cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden changes temperatures

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect the animals from penetration by predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large canopy over the building. If you breed animals all year round, you need to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low air temperatures well, it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place for them where they can bask.

Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the compartment with small rabbits.

Cages placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made of a single metal mesh attached to a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you raise rabbits indoors, it should be:

• well plastered;
• ventilated;
• illuminated in winter - at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if there was a window on the entire wall on the south side of the barn.

Combined rabbit breeding option

For the combined option of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them outside, and in the cold season, install them indoors.

If funds allow, you can make two versions of cages: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this one is unlikely option will do for those who breed a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (fawns, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located outside, it is better to cover them with slate, since the metal gets very hot, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

To make it easier to care for animals, it is better to make the tray with a gutter for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for storing pet waste.

Multi-tiered cells can consist of two or more tiers. On each tier there is required amount sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for the construction of rabbit hutches both outdoors and indoors.

Multi-tiered products are often called sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps save space. Ideal option are two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. A metal roof must be installed above each cage, and inclined ebbs must be installed in the space between each tier. This is necessary so that the animals’ waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into specially arranged drains behind the cages.

Some people prefer to use removable plastic pallets in cells. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on runners under the grated floor.

Cages for breeding

In breeding cages, it is necessary to install special chambers on the sides or provide space for a mobile queen cell. If you choose an inpatient department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that the young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with an opening for entry. This box should have an additional side door so that the queen cell can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged into different cells as needed. They are also much more convenient for changing bedding and cleaning. The building is insulated for feeding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile queen cell should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit a few days before the birth.

In winter, it is practically impossible to do without heating the uterine tract. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use a regular light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: when choosing to heat the queen cell with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it.

Important: if you prefer this type of heating, make sure that the cable is intact and without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile queen cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them outside. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it should be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth - 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Rabbits aged from three to five months are called young animals. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the cell walls must be at least 35 cm. total area calculated on the basis that there should be 0.25 square meters per animal.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise 75 cm from the ground. If the floor is made of wooden blocks, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. This way, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

In winter, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for medium-sized adult rabbits should have a depth of 60-70 cm and a length of 100 cm. These are the minimum sizes for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made using the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

To mate animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, it is recommended to make the floor from galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. This design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to the convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which contributes to their proper development and growth.

The cage with a walk can be any size. It is good if its depth varies between 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh enclosure is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed is a large rabbit, the cages for them must have appropriate sizes. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of the animals.

For one adult, a cage is required with dimensions of 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young animals of the giant breed, housing may be a little simpler. For eight animals you need a cage with an area of ​​1, 2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should be pre-strengthened. When making a mesh floor, preference is given to thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to secure bars underneath it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber trays in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them

California rabbit cage

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adults reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since this breed's paws are covered with coarse hair, the floor can be made of lattice or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole measuring 200 by 200 cm and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should first be reinforced with slate, and boards or mesh should be laid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and roof are built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. At proper care, they will delight their owners with numerous offspring.

Making your own cells

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, you need to decide in advance on the type of structure, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• corner;
• plane;
• screwdriver

Any type of cage will consist of: a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, when building houses for these animals, metal mesh or natural wood is used.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• nails and screws;
• bars;
• slats;
• galvanized mesh.

To make doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen wood as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits wear down their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply chew on their housing.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to the construction of cells, it is necessary to carefully consider them interior design. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased ready-made in a store or made on your own.

Rabbits need plenty of clean water every day. If you just pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinking bowl, you should decide on its:

• manufacturing materials;
• location;
• volume;
• type of construction.

Attention: if the drinking bowl is made of thin plastic, animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans the water will become cloudy and dirty.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of livestock. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinking bowl is quite simple: as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinking bowl with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to purchase it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and convenient. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

You can easily build a vacuum drinker with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

1. A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure and the other is outside.
2. We take a simple plastic bottle of one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We secure the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
3. Carefully unscrew the lid and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinking bowl, it will be replenished with new liquid to a certain level.

Throttle drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you will need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the cap and attach the choke. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and close the hole in the lid.

The drinking bowl is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended horizontally on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. To make this design, it is necessary to make a cutout in the bottle, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.

The hanging drinking bowl is attached to the outside of the cage - with a cut hole facing inward.

Feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed your rabbits using:

With the right approach to breeding rabbits, you can achieve good results. If the cages are built in accordance with all standards and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, will quickly develop and gain weight.

In order for rabbits to grow and develop well, it is important not only to feed them properly, but also to provide them with comfortable living conditions. That is, build comfortable, spacious housing for the animals. The sizes of cages for rabbits may vary. It all depends on what breed they are intended for.

Minimum dimensions

The cages are made in such a way that per head there is at least:

• for sexually mature female rabbits - 0.5-0.7 m2;
• repair rabbits - 0.17 m2;
• young animals - 0.12 m2;
• breeding males - 0.3-0.5 m2.

A large rabbit (giant, Flanders) will need a home measuring at least 0.75 (w) x 0.55 (h) x 1.7 (d) m. Smaller animals (chinchilla) - 0.6 x 0.45 x 0.9 m. Cage sizes for dwarf and decorative breeds of rabbits will be appropriate.

What should the design be?

Typically, rabbit cages are built on a timber frame. The back and side walls, as well as the roof, are made of thick plywood or boards. The front part is made of mesh with a fine mesh (for example, 2.5 x 5 cm). The floor of the cage should be sloping. It is also made from mesh (1.5 x 5 cm) or slats packed parallel to each other. A tray is installed under the floor to collect manure. This design will allow you to keep the “room” clean. The lid, if the cages are installed outdoors, should be made pitched and protruding forward by about 20 cm and on the sides by 10 cm. It is covered with slate or corrugated sheets on top.

The cage should be raised above the ground by at least 70-80 cm. Caring for animals with this arrangement is much easier. And the animals themselves will be protected from attacks by dogs and small rodents entering the cage. Very often, cells are arranged in rows of several tiers. One dwelling can be used for either one or two adult rabbits (or several small ones).

Hanging removable drinkers and feeders are hung on the front side. It is best to make them rotating. This will make feeding the rabbits easier. In addition, animal feces will not fall into the feeders. Next, let's look at what the “rooms” for the queens should be, as well as the size of the cages for keeping rabbits and breeding them.

Cages for rabbits

Housing for sexually mature females is divided into two parts: feeding and uterine. As a partition, use plywood with a hole cut into it with a diameter of 20 cm. It should be located above the floor at a height of approximately 10-15 cm. This is necessary so that small rabbits do not crawl into the aft part. The floor in the queen cell is made not from slats or mesh, but from solid plywood. The front door of the queen cell is made of board or plywood. For the stern part it is made of mesh. Before breeding, the queen cell itself, measuring 0.4 x 0.4 m and 20 cm high, is installed in the nesting compartment.

Standard double option

In addition to multi-tiered ones, long cages are often used in private households. A couple of animals are placed in them at once. Dimensions of cages for double rabbits:

• in length - 210-240 cm;
• width - 65 cm;
• in height from the facade - 50-60 cm;
• height from the rear wall - 35 cm.

Queen cells are located on the sides of such cells. The remaining part houses the aft compartments. The floor in them is made of lattice, and in the nesting compartments it is solid. In the middle of the cage there are mangers made of V-shaped mesh, designed for distributing roughage. Drinkers and feeders for grain are hung on the doors.

Cages with aviaries

Such dwellings are usually arranged for young animals. Walking is very beneficial for teenage rabbits. After all, these animals are naturally very active and love to move a lot. The dimensions of cages for rabbits, designed for two animals, and with an enclosure are usually as follows:

The enclosure is located along the back wall and has the same height as it - 60 cm. The cage and the paddock are separated by a removable partition.

Group cages for young animals

There are other types of similar structures. Of course, in this case, certain cage sizes for rabbits are also selected. Drawings are drawn up, for example, in such a way that the housing turns out to be:

• length equal to 2-4 m;
• wide - 1 m;
• with a front wall height of 50 cm;
• rear - 40 cm.

In this case, the back and side walls and lid are made of thick plywood, and the front and floor are made of mesh. The length of the visor is 30 cm.

Cages for California rabbits

This breed has recently become increasingly popular in our country. It's all about the very good adaptability of Californian rabbits to the weather conditions of any region. They have very thick fur on their paws. Therefore, they do not freeze in winter. For animals of this breed, housing is arranged in the same way as for any other not too large one. Optimal sizes cages for Californian rabbits - 120 x 60 x 60 cm.

Cells of N. I. Zolotukhin

This option has recently attracted great interest among rabbit breeders. N.I. Zolotukhin has been breeding furry animals for more than 60 years and has independently designed two varieties that are quite comfortable and practical cells for them - three-tiered and pyramidal.

The main feature of the first option is solid plywood floors. Only a 15 cm wide strip is made of mesh at the back of the cage. Biological feature rabbits is that they go to the toilet in this place (70% of all feces and all urine are collected here). To prevent waste products from falling on the heads of animals from the lower tiers, the rear wall of the cage is made inclined. That is, the grid on the floor protrudes beyond the plane of the complex. The back wall is made of opaque polycarbonate.

The floors of the pyramidal variety of Zolotukhin cells have the same design. However, in this case, the tiers are simply shifted relative to each other by the width of the mesh strip. As a result, the complex takes on a pyramidal shape when viewed in profile.

Another feature of Zolotukhin’s cages are folding feeders. They do not spin on hinges or some complex device, but on ordinary nails. The size of Zolotukhin's rabbit cages is not too large - approximately 70 x 100 cm. However, the animals feel very good in them. When keeping rabbits in cages designed by this farmer, it is not necessary to carry out thorough weekly cleaning. It is enough to sweep completely dry floors from time to time. Manure is cleared from the back of the tiers from the ground 1-2 times a year.

Sheds

So, now you know what size rabbit cages should be. Drawings of such structures are presented on this page. Now let's see where to place the finished cells. Of course, you can put them right on the street. In this case, tiers are usually placed under trees. With this arrangement, in summer the animals will be protected from direct sunlight, and in winter - from the piercing wind. However, it is better to install cages in special sheds. This is what they call buildings with gable roof, the side walls of which are formed back walls tiers. That is, the cells are installed in two rows with the facades facing the inside of the resulting room.

Shed doors are made with swing doors. They are often double. In this case, in addition to solid panels, a mesh door is installed. In summer, the wooden doors open. The screen door remains closed. As a result, the animals receive more light and fresh air. On the south side there is usually an enclosure for walking young animals.

Rabbit barn

It is not necessary to install the cages exactly in the shad. You can also protect animals from rain, snow and severe frosts by arranging a comfortable shed for them. The most important thing when drawing up a project for such a structure is to ensure that there are no drafts in it. Rabbits cannot tolerate them at all. It is best to make the roof of a barn pitched. In this case, it will be possible to dry and store hay on it. Floors are usually arranged slightly inclined towards the entrance. With this design it will be more convenient to clean.

Be sure to install several windows in the barn. For good development rabbits need Fresh air and a lot of light. Inside the shed there must be a corner designed for storing equipment.

Cages for young animals are usually placed along the walls. The rabbits' homes with queen cells are in the middle of the barn.

What you need to know

The required dimensions of cages for fattening rabbits, keeping queens and breeding rabbits during production must be observed. If you put a large animal in a small “room”, nothing good will come of it. Deprived of the opportunity to move freely, the animal will develop poorly. The discomfort in the cages also affects the rabbits' ability to reproduce. In addition, when there is a lot of crowding, the risk of various types of infectious diseases increases.

As you can see, making cages and even a shed for rabbits yourself is not at all difficult. Comfortable homes for these animals are quite simple design. The optimal size of cages for rabbits depends only on the body constitution of that particular breed.