Blanks for the hive, body dimensions. How to make a multi-body beehive for bees with your own hands? Nest body of the hive

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A multi-hull hive is one of the most common ways to develop a bee colony during the season and ensure maximum honey yield. Unlike large, but single-hulled beds, its design is optimal for the development of a bee colony: as experts have established, bees most willingly build a frame by moving vertically rather than horizontally. However, 145 mm magazines are sometimes used in sun loungers.

In apiaries, there are hives consisting of several buildings, both Dadan-Blat (in the jargon of beekeepers, “Dadanovskie” or simply “Dadanov”), and Langsroth-Rut (respectively, “Rutovskie”). Traditionally in Soviet time Dadan hives were used, but this is due not so much to their advantages, but to the fact that mass production and provision of apiaries with them was established. As multi-body hives, Rutov hives are in many ways preferable. Their design was initially designed for the fact that beekeeping work will be carried out not in pieces, but as a whole body. Actually, this is one of the reasons why Rutov hives do not provide a reduced frame for a 145 mm magazine extension - they are designed for one size.

How the enclosures are installed

A new case or magazine is placed on top of a 145 mm frame. This method of working with a bee colony is typical for dadans during active honey collection.
The first body rises, and the second one is placed under it. This technology is used on Rutov hives, as well as in cases where bees overwinter in two buildings rather than being squeezed into one. This rearrangement leads to the fact that the lower body, which has already been freed from brood over the winter, is again mastered by the queen and bees, as a result of which the reproduction of bees is accelerated. Then, by the beginning of the honey harvest, the number of bees increases, and they fill each empty frame faster.

What frame size is optimal?

A multi-body hive can be designed to fit any frame. However, now the size of 145 mm in height is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the following reasons:

Rutov's hives are designed for almost this frame - and they are, not without reason, considered more progressive than old-fashioned dadans. However, 145 mm is not alien to Dadan either - such is the height of its magazines.
Work with a 145 mm frame is easier. It weighs less (on average 1-1.5 kg less than a full-size 300 mm one.
It is possible to use carrying boxes and honey extractors without alteration, if they were originally designed for the Dadan frame. In this case, instead of one, two 145 mm in size are installed.
Cutting the foundation to this size is much more convenient than cutting it to a longer length.

However, a multi-body hive can be designed for a 300 or 230 mm frame. Here everything depends on the habits of a particular beekeeper, climate (dadans are more suitable for northern apiaries), as well as on what drawings were available when making beekeeping equipment. It is impossible to say unequivocally which size is better - there are too many factors here.

It should be noted that the remaining sizes are usually unified. Typically, the length of the frame is always 435 mm, top – 37 mm, bottom – 25 mm. The length reserve for hangers for mounting in the case is also almost always the same - 35 mm. Therefore, if there is an urgent need and there is a shortage of suitable parts, you can use a Rutov hive in a dadan body, and in extreme cases, install a store-bought one. Usually this is not recommended at all, but if you need to temporarily accommodate a swarm that has flown out, this is possible.

Making your own hive

You can purchase beekeeping equipment, or you can make a multi-hull hive with your own hands. The manufacturing technology is not too complicated for a person who has experience in carpentry and knows how to handle wood. To do this you will need the following:

To make a multi-body hive, in principle, all you need is a workbench, a plane, a hacksaw and fasteners (screwdrivers and self-tapping screws or even a hammer and nails). However, it is best if you have access to woodworking machines - at least the simplest ones. In this case, the precision of manufacturing parts is much higher, and so is the quality. And the better the hive is made, the longer it will last.

Where to get the drawing

Drawings of any parts can be obtained in different ways:

Copy from beekeeping literature. It’s labor-intensive and not very reliable, but it’s great for beekeepers from the outback where there is no Internet access.
Download and print. Nowadays there are many websites for beekeepers. There you can find drawings of products designed for any height: 145, 300, and 230 mm.
Finally, an experienced beekeeper can make the drawings himself to his liking. Now, if you wish, you can experiment using original materials and sizes. In particular, products designed for 145 mm honeycombs are mostly experimental.

So I kept myself busy on the sly while I was on duty at a construction site for a day. Then I was at home for three days and again guarded the construction site for 24 hours and made my own hives. My partner said: “It’s nice to go into the trailer - it smells like wood, and not tobacco, like others.”

Today I finished the cases and, as usual, I’ll tell you how I made them. The very first question is what to make it from? My “basement” and “garage” supplies of boards have run out. I started looking around the city for dry pine boards. Oh, and expensive, let me tell you. They ask for 1200 hryvnia per cube. If you take into account all the costs of making multi-hull hives at this price, then buying ready-made ones won’t be much more expensive than making them yourself.

From one of the advertisements I found a dry spruce board. Leftovers. Take it, they say, at a price of 800 per cubic meter. I took it, of course. Three four-meter boards.

Igor, the owner of the machine on which I made hives, gave me three more pine boards. In return, I made him a beehive.

Well, I still have some dry dismantled window boxes left in stock - they will also be used. So I scraped together some material.

I immediately cut the board into half-meter pieces, because the machine is small, it’s difficult to process long pieces.

Each of the blanks had exactly one edge cut off.

I decided to make the walls of the buildings from two boards: wide - 160 mm and narrow - 90 mm. Having placed the side stop, I spread the board lengthwise.

I set the size to 165 and 95 mm - with a margin of 5 mm for processing. Some even yielded two wide pieces, some produced a wide and a narrow one, others produced only two narrow ones. The width of the window bars, by the way, is also 95 mm, so they fit just right.

I don’t have a thickness gauge, I simply pressed it with my own hands and sharpened the workpieces on both sides, reducing the thickness to 35 mm.

I planed the sides at right angles and pressed them against a vertical stop.

I decided to glue the walls into tongue and groove. To select for the tongue and groove, I bought a cutter with a diameter of 125 mm and a tooth width of 10 mm.

I chose a groove measuring 10x10 mm in the blanks on one side in the center.

There is information on how to adjust the height of the machine table.

Connecting wide board with a narrow one and clamp it in a clamp. Fits two walls at once. I also made the clamp with my own hands - nothing complicated.

After 3-4 hours you can remove and glue the next batch. It took me several shifts just for gluing, so making multi-body hives is a painstaking process that does not tolerate fuss.

Small irregularities and differences in the glued parts were sanded with a grinder and sandpaper.

I placed a side stop and cut all the blanks lengthwise to a final size of 250 mm - this is the height of the multi-body hive body. I didn’t plan this cut anymore.

Let's look together at drawing 10 of the frame hive, the history of its appearance and design features. Let's figure out why many beekeepers choose it as the main one in their apiaries.

Types, characteristics and features of hives

In the modern art of beekeeping there is quite a a large number of various designs. Many continue to use those that were inherited from the previous owner of the apiary, some buy new ones. The longer the master uses a large amount various products, the more inclined one is to one type or another.

Some are even beginning to produce new types, assembling various components of various systems. This is how new hives are obtained, during the operation of which they either take root among beekeepers, or everyone forgets about them.

There are quite a few such professionals, and we will not list the new features that constantly appear in this environment. I would like to talk about designs that have long been recognized as classics and are considered one of the best examples.

One of the most outstanding beekeepers was the French master Charles Dadan, who developed a design that is still considered one of the best and is used in many apiaries in our country.

Beekeepers have appreciated this system, which consists of one large housing on the bottom and several, half the size of the main one, on top for storing honey.

All types of frame hives divided into horizontal and vertical. Very convenient for those who for some reason cannot lift heavy weights.

Such a hive is also good for peace of mind, when there is no need to accumulate a lot of honey, ohespecially when the beekeeper's main focus is on raising the bee and getting to know it inner world and devices.

For beginners, it would be a good idea to start familiarizing yourself with these design features.

Horizontal - hive-beds. They are good because there is no need to operate with heavy bodies, and when a new family is formed (layering), a partition can be inserted next to the main frames, then the frames with the newly formed family can be moved before the birth of the uterus.

There are several options for beehives, which are the most common:

Ukrainian;
Lyansa;
Slavic;
Galician;
Levitsky;
Warsaw;
Vashchenko;
Dokuchaeva;
Dolinsky.

All hives of this type differ from vertical ones in that they have a large frame, which is almost twice the size. Accordingly, the design and location of the socket differs slightly from multi-body structures.

Worth knowing!Most of the above designs have quite big size and weight, therefore cannot be used in apiaries that move closer to the honey collection site.

If we talk about vertical structures, then it must immediately be said that such hives are most common in apiary lands and outdoor areas. IN last years beekeepers are increasingly leaning towards this basis, and communication with beekeepers at numerous fairs and gatherings confirms this.

What are the benefits of multi-tiered products? The answer is simple. They are the ones who most effectively make it possible to accumulate honey for its subsequent collection and sale.

When creating a large apiary (over 10 families), you are unlikely to think about calming your soul and doing what you love. The apiary becomes your job and earning a living.

It takes up almost all of your time and requires a lot of attention. Therefore, for maximum efficiency, multi-body hives are chosen.

The arrangement of parts in them has some consistency. In the spring, the first body with a formed nest and queen is placed.

Then, when the family and the first young animals expand, a second building is installed, into which the first honey collection begins. After the family has grown stronger, the third building is erected. The fourth - during the period of maximum honey collection.

At some points you can see the installation of the fifth extension. This occurs when it is necessary to form a new layer. The difficulty with all this is that it is constantly necessary to swap bodies in order to achieve certain results, which is quite troublesome and requires a certain amount of physical effort.

Speaking about our 10 frame hive, you also need to know all the subtleties of this art, but the physical costs will be an order of magnitude less, due to the fact that it has a body half the size of the standard lower one, or as in the Langstroth-Ruth design.

To compare our Dadan hive, let's give some characteristics of its main competitor, namely the Langstroth-Ruth multi-body hive.

This hive is the leader industrial production multi-tiered houses due to its size. R the amki in this product exceed the dimensions of Dadanovsky, Accordingly, you can collect more honey from them, however, as mentioned above, they are quite cumbersome.

Advantages of this type:

All frames are the same size;
Easy to find repair units;
Possibility of increasing the bee colony;
The dimensions of the cases are the same, easy to transport.

In principle, all this can be attributed to our hive, but there are some differences, which we will talk about in the next chapter.

10 frame hive, its design and manufacture

Making a hive at home is quite easy, but you must have some tools and some basic carpentry skills. During the long winter days, when the main work in the apiary is absent, it’s time to start preparing for the new season.

One of these issues that every beekeeper faces is houses for bee colonies, because every spring the issue of swarming arises and, perhaps, you need to increase your apiary to more bee colonies.

To make hives, you need to take willow or alder wood, but ordinary pine will also work well.

What you need to have in your arsenal:

Rail or beam;
A board 1-1.5 centimeters thick for the roof;
2.2-4 centimeter board for the body;
Saw;
Hammer;
Screwdriver;
Plane;
Connecting material (screws, nails).

Before starting production, it is necessary to process all the material with a plane so that there are smooth edges.

After the board is prepared, it is necessary to begin assembly from the inside of the tier/hive, connecting the boards cut under required size using glue.

The outer part is made like shields, inside which we place the inner body and fasten both bodies together with nails.

Note!It is not permissible for fastening material when connected, it protruded on the inner walls of the house. Pay special attention to this when choosing the required length of nail or screw.

All parts are fastened at an angle of 90 degrees using a special tool. Before you begin installing the bottom and lid, you need to cut out the tapholes of the required size. The size of the tapholes is standard: lower (10x250 mm), upper (10x100 mm).

The top cover is made with a pediment and a ceiling for ventilation, this distance is vital in summer period. For the winter, the ceiling can be filled with insulating material.

The lower part of the hive (bottom) can be made either blank or with a special tray for cleaning dead mites and bee waste, which is very convenient when servicing large beekeeping farms.

If the hives are made with a solid bottom, try placing a small dense sheet corrugated paper, consisting of 2 parts - this will simplify the task of cleaning up garbage.

Also remember that you only need to choose dry wood, which, with prolonged use, will have minimal drying characteristics. The bees will solve small shortcomings themselves by covering up the resulting cracks with propolis.

So, you have become the owner of a new house for bees. Don’t forget to completely dry it before use and treat the inside with a special solution, or simply burn it with a blowtorch.

The advantage of this design system

As stated above, this design a multi-body hive performs quite well in large outdoor apiaries.

It is especially good to use them on large special platforms for bees, where during the first spring trips you can install only one housing, and in the process of expanding the colony and increasing honey yield, deliver the housings without removing them from the transport structure.

It will be quite easy for you to transport them to another field and to large honey fields by installing the high sides that come with such a trailer. At the moment, for the size of the frames that are installed in them, there are big choice various instruments(honey extractors, etc.).

The distribution of such houses is constantly growing, which is good news. Many who have been trained to manage standard beehives are gradually switching to multi-tiered products, as the advantages of such systems are obvious.

The modern multi-body beehive is now widely known and successfully used all over the world. Let's look at how to make a multi-hull hive and beekeeping methods.

There is an opinion that the idea of creating such amazing house for keeping bees belongs to two American beekeepers - Langstroth and Roth. But in fact, such a device was first invented by the Russian beekeeper N. M. Vitvitsky. Long before the implementation of the Langstroth-Roth idea, he built such a bell hive in 1829.

Peculiarities

Its main feature was that it consisted of several special extensions. Usually there were 6-7 of them. At the same time, the height of the three upper extensions was 10 inches each, and the lower ones were 6 inches. Modern multi-body hives, which are so common in our country, have approximately the same height. This is due to the fact that its creator knew the life of bees well, so he provided all the necessary parameters.

As experienced beekeepers say, Vitvitsky’s multi-hull hives were calculated mathematically, taking into account the nature of insects and the conditions for successful honey collection. Moreover, the prototype of a multi-body bee house was developed taking into account the changing seasons, so the author provided for the possibility of using several extensions in the summer, but two in the spring and autumn. A similar principle is observed in the use of modern hives.

Main qualities

The main quality of a multi-hull hive was noted by Vitvitsky himself - “a large space so that at any time of the year the bees have enough space for work and brood.” Moreover, already in the first year of use, the beekeeper managed to achieve very high honey collection rates at that time with low labor costs. It was the design of this piece of evidence that became the basis for modern domestic beekeeping. Let's look at it in more detail.

Design

Today this bee house is considered the most comfortable and most perfect. It consists of several parts that are added and removed depending on the time of year. Thus, an ordinary multi-body hive consists of certain elements. You can build a multi-body hive with your own hands without much effort.

Design elements

a number of buildings;
detachable bottom;
roof;
taphole liners;
blank ceiling;
dividing grid;
stands.

Also, the roof of such a hive consists of a special “overlap”. On its sides there are four ventilation holes, covered with mesh. A multi-body hive has a house and a number of other important parts in its design.

Other parts:

stand, which is used during migration and for wintering;
additional landing boards;
windproof strips;
taphole liners for various purposes and different sizes;
special layer (pillow) to retain heat;
two dividing partitions for separating the uterus;
feeders 0.5 liters;
special fastenings for transporting hives.

Today you can most often find a ten-frame multi-body hive. Unlike many other species, it allows both professional and novice beekeepers to conduct successful industrial beekeeping. Moreover, such a hive can freely contain from 30 to 50 bee families. The following is presented detailed technology manufacturing.

Drawing

In order to better understand the design and individual components of a multi-hull hive, we invite you to view drawings of such a structure on our website. Detailed drawings will help you understand how the evidence is arranged inside and what ensures such successful beekeeping. The drawings also indicate exact dimensions all components.

Dimensions

When creating his bell hive, Vitvitsky carefully calculated and provided for all dimensions. Today they have been slightly improved, and the multi-hull house has the following parts of the structure in standard sizes.

Standard

Housing in the form of a square box with permanent internal dimensions, or rather, with a width of 375 mm, a length of 450 mm and a height of 240 mm.
Four buildings are constructed from thick boards (thickness of at least 25 mm). For convenience, special recesses are cut into the body on all four sides, as well as a tap hole (diameter 25 mm).
Removable bottom 220x10 mm with working hole.

Beekeepers prepare all the buildings for multi-hull hives in advance. One case contains 10 frames, which have permanent dividers.

Beekeeping methods

Many novice beekeepers ask what ensures such successful beekeeping in a multi-hull hive. Everything is quite simple. The nest of insects in such a hive is narrow and high and in shape resembles the nest of “wild” bees, which settle in tree hollows. Multi-body housing of small insects allows you to build many combs on frames with foundation, maintaining constant working energy, and therefore preventing swarming. In addition, it is in such a hive that a strong family shows its greatest productivity during honey collection.

John Long Method

One of the most known methods Beekeeping in multi-hull hives is the John Long method. It eliminates the use of expensive separating bars, as they often cause bees to pile up honey in brood boxes, creating crowded conditions. Often it is this fact that leads to a state of swarming. It is also worth noting that this method consists of several types of honeycombs, namely, honeycombs for honey are used only in the nesting building, and construction and for offspring - only in the store. Thus, the queen lays eggs in dark combs, as expected, and does not affect the light ones.

The life of bees in such hives has a number of advantages. First of all, it makes it possible to quickly increase bee colonies, eliminate swarming and collect good harvest honey with little effort. In ordinary houses, beekeepers, as you know, constantly deal with each individual frame, and a multi-body hive, in turn, allows you to work with entire buildings. This helps not only to increase the amount of honey produced, but also to reduce its cost and increase the efficiency of the beekeeper. One person with an assistant can serve not about 50-60, as usual, but 200-300 and even 400 bee families. Also, in these hives, as practice shows, queens give birth to more offspring, families develop more actively, worker bees build honeycombs faster and collect more honey. In such a multi-building house, it is easier for them to maintain the required temperature, which helps them successfully survive the winter.

Case stand time

All the bodies are not placed at once, but gradually, as the bees fill the honeycombs with brood. To do this, you need to place a second one on the first body. Honeycombs with honey and dry food should be placed in this case. After a while, the queen will move there and lay eggs. Some time after the second frame has been installed (usually 2-3 weeks), another 10-frame frame will need to be installed between the two – 5 frames with drywall and five with foundation. It is the placement of this third body that prevents swarming. It is also worth remembering that the queen always lays eggs where it is warmer - in the honeycombs of the upper bodies, so the lower body must soon be freed and also moved upstairs.

Finishing touch

In mid-summer, when the second main honey flow begins, a fourth building is installed in the hives, which allows you to expand the space and increase the honey flow. Bees always store honey in the upper buildings, so the main place for storing honey is the third and fourth buildings. At this time, the number of brood decreases. At this time, it is also advisable to monitor the level of nectar collection. If it is abundant, then another one is added to strong families - the fifth building.

Preparing for winter

In the fall, bees are prepared for winter. First you should check the condition of the families, then take care of their food. For the winter, the uppermost body is left, where the bees apply honey and the middle one with brood. As a rule, at this time there are no offspring in the lower building, so it should be freed from bees and removed. At least 25-30 kilograms of honey should be left in each hive to feed the bees. If all this is observed, then the apiary will survive the winter well.

As we have already said, the main feature of multi-body hives is their design, or rather, the ability to constantly remove and add bodies. As for the wintering of bees in such houses, there are some peculiarities here. Let’s say right away that if the family is small and weak, then the work in this case is no different from the work when using evidence of other variations. Another thing concerns large and strong families. In this case, they need to be given 2-3 buildings at their disposal for the winter. Let's consider their purpose.

The lower buildings (maybe one or two) house bees and brood, which appears in the fall.

The upper body must be left for food. Naturally, the upper housing contains sealed food.

In addition to honey, bees are also provided with honey feather frames for nutrition. This is very important for the revival of the family after wintering in the spring. At this time, there is very little pollen in nature and the queen needs additional nutrition. If ten full frames of honey are usually left for the winter, then bee bread should be left with two frames. Gradually, during the winter, the bees will eat food and move up. After wintering in the spring, it is expected that the nests will expand by the time the lower building is completely free of bees, and they move to the upper one.

Video

In order to clearly see the maintenance of bees in multi-hull hives, as well as the design of such a “house” and the work of the beekeeper, we suggest watching the video on our website. With its help, you will learn a lot of useful information for your own work with such a hive and will be able to successfully implement this method of beekeeping in your apiary.

Manufacturers of beekeeping equipment offer consumers a wide selection of multi-hull hives, which are comfortable and easy to maintain, but are expensive. To minimize financial costs, beekeepers prefer to make hives themselves, from scrap materials. What are the advantages of a multi-section bee “house”, and how to make it yourself - read about it further.

Important! Keeping bees using a multi-hull hive allows you to raise a strong, able-bodied family, reducing the time and money for maintaining the apiary.

Features of keeping bees in multi-hull hives

To grow and maintain bee families, beekeepers often use multi-section hives, which allow, as the family grows and honey accumulates, to increase the structure to required sizes, by installing an additional number of housings. This makes it possible to raise a full-fledged, healthy family and keep it in a non-swarming state.

The technology for keeping bees in multi-hull structures comes down to the use of the following techniques:

a healthy bee colony is left for the winter in two buildings: the lower section is occupied by bees and brood, the upper section is partially occupied by insects and honey product;
During the winter, the bees eat the sweet treat and gradually move to the upper buildings;
at the end of winter, the family completely moves to the upper buildings;
in the spring, depending on the strength of the family, it is left in two buildings or only in one, removing the lower empty section due to its uselessness. Later, when crowding occurs, it is installed back.

It should be noted that the main objective beekeeping using multi-body structures consists of gradually adding bodies as the bee family grows and the amount of honey increases. Such hives make it possible to breed strong and active insects with year-round performance.

At the same time, keeping bees in the described structures has a number of characteristic techniques:

in a design with two sections, a strong family is left for the winter;
as the upper body fills with brood, it is swapped with the lower one;
after the insects have mastered the upper housing, install a new one;
using a dividing grid, isolate the uterus;
after two weeks of isolation of the uterus, two new sections are located, necessary for the construction of cells and filling them with honey;
When collecting honey, the upper section is replaced with the lower one. The section with empty frames is placed down on the part with the brood, and the others are raised up;
in the fall, a section with honey is placed on a section with brood, and the bee family is left to overwinter.

Did you know? A hive in the form of a structure with several buildings is considered the most suitable from the point of view of biological breeding of bees. It was invented by beekeeper Lorenz Langstroth in 1851. Modern similar products can contain up to 100,000 insects.

Structural features

A multi-section hive is a vertical structure consisting of several special sections, a removable bottom, a roof, gratings for dividing space, a stand and an entrance liner. This design makes it possible to quickly grow a family and prepare it for the main honey harvest. Each case is designed for 10 frames, which allows you to work not with one frame, but directly with an entire section.

This significantly increases the efficiency of beekeeping and reduces the time required to maintain hives. The body of the described hive has a box-like shape, dimensions 45x37.5x24 cm. All sections fit tightly to one another and are well held during transportation. The roof of the product is flat and is pulled over the hive into a cover.
The bottom of the structure is removable and is a figure made of wooden blocks in the shape of the letter “P”. The hive stand also has the shape of a box, the dimensions of which are slightly beyond the boundaries of the structure itself. To produce a bee house, it is preferable to use environmentally friendly, durable materials.

Which could reliably protect the structure from the harmful effects of atmospheric phenomena. The best option for the hive is natural, well-dried wood, without gaps or rotten areas. Linden, spruce, poplar, and fir are suitable. It is also possible to use plywood sheets, polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam for manufacturing.

Important! It is not recommended to use for the manufacture of sections metal parts, because bees have a negative attitude towards them.

Advantages and disadvantages of such a hive

The use of a multi-hull hive for bee breeding has a number of advantages, which include:
a significant reduction in time spent on apiary maintenance, since the beekeeper carries out the main work by changing the entire section, and not individual frames;
simplifying the preparation of food supplies for the winter: a section with slots filled with sealed honey is cleared of insects and stored in a specially designated place until spring;
the convenience of cleaning the hive from waste by releasing the removable bottom;
simplicity and ease of collecting honey, since the bees put it in the upper cases, which eliminates the need to disassemble the entire nest.

In addition, vertical structures are most optimally adapted to the biological regime of bees, since in natural conditions insects lived in hollows in which the nests were located in a vertical position.

Meanwhile, the described design is not without its drawbacks:
difficulties in transportation and movement, since the housings can be damaged in the absence of reliable fasteners;
The efficiency of breeding bees in multi-hull hives is advisable in those farms where it is possible to raise a strong colony. In addition, a good food supply is required. Otherwise, having gained strength to 50–60 frames, without the presence of a stable bribe, the family will go into a swarm state. This is especially true for cold regions in Siberia, where a similar situation often occurs;
large weight of sections, which healthy, strong and young beekeepers are able to work with. An eight-frame or ten-frame case weighs 20–30 kg, while the topmost one is located at a height of 1–1.5 m from the ground, which significantly complicates the process of removing/installing sections.

How to make a multi-body beehive for bees with your own hands?

The design of a multi-body bee house is simple, so it won’t be difficult to make it yourself a lot of work even for people who have no experience in carpentry.

Important! It is the installation of the third section that prevents bees from swarming.

Drawings and dimensions

Making a hive begins with creating drawings and determining the required dimensions. Modern designs must have a width of at least 38 cm, according to which other structural elements are increased: bottom, stand, roof, dividing grids, liners. As a rule, sections are made on a frame of 145 mm or 230 mm. Expansion of the bee house is carried out by installing an additional solid body.

The hive design has the following features:

the thickness of the board for the section must be at least 3.5 cm;
frame dimensions: 435×230 mm, rail on top - 10 mm, bottom - 5–6 mm, side - 8 mm;
the body is assembled without the use of nails or screws. The structure is assembled into a tenon, and the joints are coated with glue;
the lid should contain four ventilation holes on the sides, covered with a special mesh.

Tools and materials

In the process of making a multi-section house you will need following materials and tools:

durable boards for making roofs, 25 mm thick;
solid boards for creating cases, 35 mm thick;
sheet of metal required to decorate the roof;
special spikes for fastening boards;
glue for reliable fixation of all structural parts;
three wooden bars, dimensions 570×65×35 mm (2 pieces) and 445×65×35 mm for the production of the bottom;
hammer;
saw for cutting wood;
ruler and tool for determining angles.

Did you know? A family of bees in a medium-sized hive can consist of 60–120 thousand insects, which can produce about 100 kg of honey over the summer period. After wintering, with insufficient food supplies, the number of family members can be reduced to 10–30 thousand.

Rearrangement of buildings

The housings are assembled using the “groove and tenon” system: a wall with gaps is installed on the workbench, and a side with tenons is placed on top. With careful blows of a hammer, the spikes are easily driven into the gaps. When assembling, experts recommend using carpentry wooden hammer, which will prevent damage to the studs. All sections are not installed immediately, but gradually, as the bee family develops and honey accumulates.

To begin with, two buildings are mounted - on the first one a second one is placed, in which honeycombs with honey and dry goods are placed. After some time, approximately 2-3 weeks, the queen will move into the second section and lay eggs. IN this period In the meantime, between the two sections, a third body with 10 frames is installed, where five of them contain drying material, and the other five contain foundation. In the middle summer season When the second phase of the main honey harvest starts, the fourth building is installed.
Which is necessary to increase the volume of honey collection. Little workers always store nectar in the upper sections, which is why the third and fourth segments are the main place for storing the sweet delicacy. During this period, the number of brood decreases significantly. Next, the beekeeper conducts preparatory activities associated with wintering of insects.

Features of wintering

One of the most important stages keeping bees is their competent and timely preparation for wintering. First of all, they check the condition of the family and make sure there is enough food. A healthy, strong family is placed in several buildings, with insects and decay placed in the lower sections, and a feeding extension in the upper sections.

Since in winter a strong family of insects consumes about 40 kg of honey, the extensions should contain more than 10 frames with honey products. It should be remembered that completely healthy bees are winter time, although they do not die in the hives, they weaken significantly, so you should not skimp on their food. For the winter, the hive can be moved to a warmer place or left outside if the weather conditions of the region allow.

In addition to natural honey, half-frames with beebread are left in the cases, which allows insects to quickly restore strength after winter cold. Gradually, throughout winter period, the bees will eat the honey and move into upper tier.
In the spring, when the lower body is completely free of insects, the nest is expanded by installing additional sections. At the end of spring, the upper and lower buildings are swapped. Such manipulations allow the queen to move to the upper tier, where she can lay eggs.

Multi-building pavilion breeding of bees has features, knowledge of which will help novice beekeepers avoid mistakes.

Experienced beekeepers with this method of keeping advise:

refrain from installing the hive directly on the ground, since low temperatures in winter and high temperatures in summer can negatively affect the condition of the bee family;
When making a structure with your own hands, take care of its insulation in advance. At the same time, as insulation material do not use cotton wool, as was done before, but, for example, polystyrene foam;
install the house in areas protected from wind and direct sunlight. Not suitable for installation of structures open areas, as they can increase the risk of overheating or hypothermia of winged insects;
It is imperative to make a stand for the hive, which will avoid direct contact of the structure with the soil, and will also significantly facilitate its transportation;
work to expand the nest in the spring should be carried out in warm weather, since the brood located in the lower building may catch a cold.

A multi-section hive is considered alternative option for maintaining a bee family. Compared with traditional designs has several key advantages: it facilitates the care of insects, increases the productivity of bees and reduces the cost of honey products. Similar houses can be purchased in specialized stores, but more often, beekeepers prefer to make hives with their own hands.

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