DIY salt and pepper shaker made of wood. Russian wooden salt shakers

We all know that excessive salt intake in our daily diet can cause serious harm to our body. However, consuming salt in moderation can add an appetizing flavor to dishes. Ordinary glass salt shakers are not suitable for summer cottages, since they usually only last a week. Therefore, you can find an alternative in the form of metal or plastic, or you can make it yourself using ordinary plastic bottles.

So, we suggest you start making salt shakers by watching the video.

What do we need:
- two plastic bottles;
- large diameter drill;
- glue gun;
- blade for a hacksaw for metal;
- wooden pieces;
- a small block;
- screwdriver;
- sandpaper.

First of all, we need to cut off, or rather saw off, the necks of our bottles. For this we will use a hacksaw blade. You need to cut under the base of the neck.

When the necks of our bottles are cut down, we lightly sand them with sandpaper so that there are no uneven spots left.

After making sure that the necks fit perfectly on each other, we glue them with a glue gun. Using the same technology, you can make a waterproof case for matches, which will definitely be useful for lovers of fishing and outdoor activities.

After this, we remove one of the covers from our workpiece, since we have to make several holes on it with a hot thick needle. At this stage, the production of the salt shaker is virtually completed. However, you can also think about the aesthetic part of our homemade product and make a beautiful stand for it.

Let's take it wooden block and drill a hole on it that matches the diameter of the salt shaker. The stand can also be left as is, or you can improve it and apply some kind of design on it by decoupage, make patterns, and so on. As for the author of the video, he simply glues two small pieces of wood onto the stand, thus giving it a completely original look. To do this, we glue one piece of wood on the side of the stand, and the second piece on top of the first so that it is parallel to the stand. Thanks to this we get a stand with a handle. It should be noted that the author of the homemade product claims that the glue is from glue gun does a great job of holding pieces of wood in place so there is no need to use screws or nails.

Text and drawings: G. Fedotov

Antique wooden salt shakers: 1 - chiseled, from ancient Novgorod; 2 — salt shaker-lion, Mordovia; 3 - wicker from pine roots; 4 — chiseled with painting, 19th century, Russian North; 5 — salt shaker in the form of a swan, 17th-18th centuries, Vologda region; 6 - wicker from birch bark; 7 - rectangular with painted relief; 8 — dugout salt shaker-chair, 19th century, Volga region; 9 — salt shaker-chair, decorated with carvings, 19th century, Volga region; 10 — cooper’s salt shaker-chair, Volga region; 11 — salt shaker-duck, dug out of birch burl, 19th century, Vologda region.

One old proverb says: “Without bread you are hungry, and without salt you are tasteless.” Bread and salt were mentioned together not only in proverbs and sayings, but also in epics, fairy tales, and folk songs. Dear guests are still greeted with bread and salt according to ancient custom.

Since ancient times, salt was treated with care - spilling salt was considered a great sin. They stored it in reliable salt shakers. Proportions, dimensions, design, materials and decorative finishing salt shakers were determined by their purpose.

When going on the road, salt was taken in small travel salt shakers. They were most often woven from birch bark or tree roots. Salt shakers made of birch bark were shaped like a cube or a boot. To prevent the salt from spilling and spilling, the salt shaker was tightly closed with a stopper.

The salt cellars served on the table differed from those on the road in their more impressive size and rich decorative decoration. In ancient Novgorod, wide, squat salt cellars turned on lathes were common. In the last century, in the north of our country there were turned salt shakers, painted oil paints.

But most often the salt shakers were sculpturally processed. Folk craftsmen gave them the shape of a swan, a duck (in the old style, duck) and even a lion. When carving a duck salt shaker, the craftsman left a bridge between the beak and chest, which served as a convenient handle. The back, along with part of the tail, was sawed off and cutting tools They chose a hole in the body for salt.

Then the sawn part of the back and tail was installed on former place. Holes were drilled near the tail into which a round rod was inserted - the so-called swivel. If it was necessary to open the salt shaker, the lid on the swivel was easily moved to the side. Some duck salt shakers had removable lids.

Salt shakers were decorated with carvings or paintings. If the raw material was valuable birch burl wood, then the craftsmen tried to identify and emphasize the natural beauty of the textured design.

Cooper's salt shaker with Gorodets painting, 19th century, Volga region.

In the Upper and Middle Volga regions, salt shakers and chairs were common. In shape, they really resembled armchairs, and individual parts of the salt shakers have the same names as the chair: back, armrests, etc.

For many centuries in peasant life A special type of lid on a swivel was developed. Two cylindrical rods cut from the protrusions of the lid rotate in holes drilled in the armrests of the side walls. The lid, rotating on swivels, easily folds back and rests against the back of the salt shaker.

The back rose above the body of the salt shaker and served as a convenient handle. Sometimes a through hole was drilled in the back - such a salt shaker could be hung on the kitchen wall. The design of the salt shakers is designed in such a way that there is not a single nail or any other metal fastener in it. After all metal parts Salt and moisture quickly rust and destroy.

According to the manufacturing technique, chair salt shakers can be divided into three types: chiseled, carpentry and cooper's. The dugout salt shakers were carved from a whole piece of wood. Carpentry was assembled from individual planks using known joining techniques wooden parts(for example, in a spike). Cooper's salt shakers were also assembled from separate planks, but they were fastened to each other with a willow hoop.

Especially many of these salt shakers with paintings on the lid and back were made by craftsmen for sale. Not only peasants, but also city dwellers willingly bought them. Durable, roomy and comfortable salt shakers served reliably long years. They turned out to be so practical that they are still preserved in some peasant houses in the Volga region. The wood, darkened by time, did not spoil their appearance at all.

Some people nowadays keep a supply of salt in glass jars, covering them with plastic covers. Need I say how inconvenient this is? The jar constantly has to be moved out of sight: hardly anyone would want to put such a salt shaker in a visible place. In addition, there is always a risk of breaking the jar.

A wooden salt shaker, whether antique or made today, fits perfectly into the interior modern home. There is no need to hide it, and there is no need to talk about convenience - it has been tested by the centuries-old experience of the people.

Linden, aspen, alder, and birch wood are suitable for making salt shakers. Wood containing a lot of tannins, such as oak, or containing a lot of resin, such as pine, should not be used.

The wood must be free from knots, cracks and rot, well dried and aged at room temperature. In the city, you can successfully use planks from shipping boxes, which are sometimes simply burned near stores. The prepared planks need to be planed so that they have a smooth and clean surface.

Making a cooper's salt shaker-chair: 1 - details of the salt shaker.

The first salt shaker can be made using ready-made drawings. The volume of the salt shaker will depend on the width of the prepared planks. Folk craftsmen used planks with a width of 9 to 12 cm.

Draw an auxiliary grid on a sheet of thin thick cardboard. The dimensions of each cell should be equal to one-sixth of the width of the board. Using the cells as a guide, transfer only the outer contours of the parts onto the cardboard.

Since the side walls of the salt shaker have the same outline, one template needs to be made for them. You must draw and then cut out five patterns: back wall(back), front wall, side wall, bottom and lid.

Place the cut-out cardboard templates sequentially on the blanks and trace them with a simple pencil. Cut out the parts of the salt shaker along the marked contours. Make the cutouts in the lid for the swivels with a narrow chisel. Round the protrusions for the swivels with a knife, turning them into cylindrical rods.

Drill two holes in the side walls through holes, corresponding to the diameters of the swivels. The holes in the side walls must be drilled exactly opposite each other, otherwise during assembly the cover will skew and will not fit tightly to the walls. Therefore, it is better to drill the holes at the same time, tightening the side walls with clamps.

Using a knife or chisel, cut off the ends of all four walls in the places shown in the figure at an angle of 45° so that they can then be joined together. You need to cut carefully, constantly checking the accuracy of the cut and trying to ensure that the walls connected to the miter fit as closely as possible to each other.

The bottom of the salt shaker is inserted into special grooves cut into the walls. They are called mornings. Cut out the chimes in the following sequence. At an equal distance from the edges, use a thin file to saw through all the walls to approximately half the thickness of the boards. Then use a chisel or cutter to make a longitudinal cut at an angle of 45°. Also cut the edges of the bottom at an angle of 45°. The trimmed edges of the bottom should fit tightly into the chimes cut into the walls.

Making a cooper's salt shaker-chair: 2 - assembling the salt shaker, the sequence of manufacturing and winding the hoop: a - splitting willow twig; b - planing of a rod; in — the beginning of the winding; g, d - continuation of the winding; e - tightening the ends of the hoop.

Before finally connecting all the parts of the salt shaker to each other, perform a test assembly. Insert the lid swivels into the holes in the side walls. Connect the side walls to the back.

Place the bottom into the chimes and attach the front wall. Then wrap the salt shaker with strong rope. If all the parts of the salt shaker are well fitted to each other, then even with strong pressure on the salt shaker they should not move, as if they were glued on.

The lid should open freely, turning on swivels with some effort. The edge of the lid adjacent to the back needs to be slightly rounded. This is done so that when opening the lid it does not rest against the back.

You should also check that the lid fits snugly against the edges of the salt shaker when closing. Move the rope wrap closer to the lid and use a knife to round off the sharp corners of the salt shaker. Then slide the wrap down and round the corners at the top.

If the salt shaker is going to be decorated with carvings, then it is better to disassemble it, apply carvings to the parts, and then reassemble it again. If you decide to paint it, then this can be done on the assembled salt shaker. But instead of a temporary rope, the salt shaker needs to be wrapped with a permanent willow hoop.

Prepare the hoop in advance by splitting the rod into three or four parts with a regular knife. By then cutting off the loose core of the split rod with a knife, you will get a flexible and durable tape. Press one end of it with your left thumb against the back wall of the salt shaker. Wrap the salt shaker with a strip, pressing wrap to wrap as tightly as possible.

When finishing the winding, slide the remaining end of the tape under the turns next to the other end. Pull the ends protruding from under the willow winding with force in opposite directions. Now you can safely remove the rope: the willow hoop securely tied all the parts together.

Stages of manufacturing a salt shaker with a round body: 1 - drawings of parts and their blanks.

Without a single nail or glue, a chair-shaped salt shaker is made with a rounded body. The lid, like a cooper's salt shaker, has swivels on which it turns when opening and closing. But unlike the first one, this salt shaker contains fewer parts, since the side and front walls are replaced by one bent part. The drawing above shows its development.

You already know how to make templates and use them to apply the contours of parts to wood. Having cut out a wall profile from a plank, drill four holes in it corresponding to the diameters of the swivels.

Cut 15 parallel grooves across the workpiece at an equal distance from each other to a depth slightly greater than the middle. If the saw blade is thick, the number of cuts may be less. But the same distance between them must be maintained in all cases.

It is better to determine the number of cuts and their width practically on a separate board, based on the thickness of the saw at your disposal. At the bottom of the workpiece, cut the grooves for the bottom.

Stages of manufacturing a salt shaker with a round body: 2 - Assembly drawing and a finished salt shaker.

In the back wall, cut the chisel with a cutter and use a narrow chisel to hollow out two through rectangular holes, the dimensions of which should correspond to the dimensions of the ears - the protrusions with round holes along the edges of the wall blank.

Place the wall blank for a few minutes in hot water, then wipe with a dry cloth and bend carefully. Steamed wood with longitudinal notches easily bends by hand without much effort.

Insert the swivels of the lid into the holes of the bent workpiece, and insert the bottom into the chimes. Insert the ears of the bent workpiece into the through rectangular holes on the back wall of the salt shaker. WITH reverse side the back wall of the holes in the ears will appear approximately halfway. Drive a pre-prepared wedge into them, which will firmly tie the entire structure together.

Thoroughly clean the assembled salt shaker with fine-grained sandpaper, and then decorate it with carvings or paintings. Painting can be done with oil paints, tempera or gouache. Tempera and gouache paints must be fixed by covering the painted surface oil varnish or natural drying oil. Under no circumstances should you cover the inside of the salt shaker with anything.

« Young technician»
Photo of antique salt shakers from “Folk Russian Wooden Products” Gr. A.A. Bobrinsky

To make a salt shaker with your own hands we will need following materials and tools: a wooden stick about 8 cm in diameter, a workbench, a saw, a drill with bits, a Dremel tool, sandpaper, a stationery knife with a breaking blade.

Step 1: Let's start with a stick, I picked it up in our yard. I think it's an ornamental plum or cherry, but I'm not sure.

Step 2: Cut off a small piece from the branch using a miter, very handy tool, I recommend it, but if you don’t have it, then you can, in principle, do without it.

This is the base I got for the salt shaker, 8 cm in diameter, 8 cm in height.

Step 3: Next we start drilling, I took the largest drill bit and started making a lot of holes. I adjusted the height using electrical tape and wrapped it around the drill, this will visually allow you to see when you need to stop. You also need to take care not to drill too close to the edges of the circle.

Step 6: Making a spoon, I cut out a stick 8 cm long and started planing, making a recess again using a Dremel machine.

Step 7: I used a knife and sandpaper to finish shaping the spoon.

Step 8: Try to see how big the spoon is.

Step 9: Next I processed my creation using beeswax, I melted it with a small amount olive oil. We apply one layer, wait until the wood absorbs it, then apply another layer (2-3 layers I think will be enough).

Translation: Anastasia Dolzhnikova

Turning is still very common today and is a very interesting activity during which you can give the workpiece a unique and original look. In this article I will tell you how the author made a salt shaker box on his lathe on wood. The material was chosen quite correctly, acacia in in this case It will look very good because of its greenish color, and after polishing it to a shine, mother-of-pearl will be visible on the walls, which will give the salt shaker even more aesthetics. In the manufacture of this homemade product, you will need some initial skills in working with a wood lathe, however, the basics of working on it are taught in labor classes in high school, so if you have not skipped these classes, this will only be beneficial. Now let’s decide what exactly is needed to make this salt shaker.

To make a salt shaker on a lathe, you will need:
* The wood lathe itself.
* Cutters made from files, which are more than strong enough.
* Wooden blank from acacia.
* Hacksaw for metal.
* Varnish for wooden products.
* Wax mastic.
* Sandpaper.

The materials and machine are ready to go, so let's get started.

Step one.
The first thing you need to do is fix wooden blank into a three-jaw chuck; if the original part has the shape of a square, then use a knife to grind off the ends, thereby making one side round, after which we tighten the workpiece in the chuck. Now we start the machine engine and process the ends to make a cylindrical workpiece, we do this using a semicircular cutter.

Step two.
In the case of a semicircular cutter, it will not be possible to achieve a smooth surface, so we replace it with a jamb cutter, which will give the desired result.

Step three.
Each homemade little thing has its own originality and uniqueness, so in order to give decorative look and a unique style, we cut out indentations with a jamb cutter, which will distinguish your homemade product from others.

Step four.
The time has come for design ideas, figure out what your salt shaker should be like, you can also sketch out sketches and make a drawing. We make convex patterns on both sides of the recesses. We round off the finished edges.

Step five.
Like all salt shakers, ours should also have an internal cavity where the salt will be placed. In this case, so that there is a stop, we turn the tool rest 90 degrees. Taking a straight narrow cutter in our hands, we begin to deepen it, leading from the center to the edge, the main thing is to move the cutter smoothly, avoiding strong pressure into the workpiece, otherwise a scuff or, worse, a crack may appear on the surface.

To gradually deepen the cutter, we do this step by step, removing layer by layer.
Step six.

Now you need to expand the internal cavity with the tip of a triangular cutter, while the movements of the cutter should be smooth from the center to the edge, and don’t forget about the bottom.
Step seven. Armed with a cutter with a wide cutting edge, we level it, and also give it the required thickness, then we make seat

to install the cover.
Step eight. Any work with wood is not complete without sanding, so we sand the edges and bottom finished part , gradually reducing the grain size sandpaper

, the final one of which will be zero.
Step nine.

After making sure that everything is well sanded, you can cut off the finished salt shaker from the excess part. This is done with the machine turned on, moving the hacksaw away from you onto the part, but be careful and monitor the process, preventing the blade from overheating. Without finishing a little, turn off the machine and release the excess part.
In order for the salt shaker to be full-fledged, it needs to have a lid; the author’s choice fell on a dome-shaped shape. All fit dimensions must match, we can adjust if necessary inner diameter salt shakers. For simplicity, we check for accuracy of fit.

Step eleven.
We cut out a dome-shaped recess inside the lid using a semicircular cutter.

Salt is a product that we consume every day, which is on the table all the time. It’s better if the salt is in a beautiful salt shaker, and you can rejoice at the sight of one more thing done with my own hands(Figure 116).

The salt shaker (Fig. 117) consists of three parts: 1 - lid; 2 - body; 5- connecting pin with head.

For the lid you need a planed board with dimensions of 100 x 70 x 12 mm, for the body - a block 100 x x 70 x 40 mm, for the pin - a block 40 mm long, square section 13 x 13 mm.

Start making the salt shaker with the lid. If you have prepared a planed board measuring 100 x 70 x 12 mm, then all you have to do is dull the sharp edges with sandpaper and mark the hole.

Draw a longitudinal center line on the workpiece and, stepping back 13 mm from the end, place a cross (Fig. 118). There will be a hole here. If necessary, sand the body on all sides.

Then draw a longitudinal center line on the surface, step back 13 mm from the end and put a cross on it. There will be a hole here too. From the opposite end, step back along the center line 37 mm and place a cross. This is the center of the hole. Using a compass opening equal to 32 mm, draw a circle from the resulting center (Fig. 119).

After this, use a semicircular chisel to make a recess for the salt; it is done in the same way as the recess of a scoop on a spoon. In this case, the workpiece must be secured in a vice, or, if there is none, in a special mandrel, which is a board with a hole cut to fit the body. The board is attached to the desktop using a clamp. Better - two (Fig. 120). If there is no clamp, then you can attach the mandrel using screws.

This simple device allows you to hold the workpiece quite reliably. While working, hold the chisel with both hands, this will greatly facilitate the processing process.

The thickness of the mandrel should be more than half the thickness of the workpiece. In this case - at least 25 mm.

Adjust the depth of the salt container at your own discretion. In the proposed version it is 30 mm. After processing with a chisel, carefully sand the recess.

The connecting pin with a head (Fig. 121) can be easily turned on a lathe in a school workshop. If this is not possible, then do it manually. To do this, prepare a knife with a sharp end (Fig. 122). When working with such a knife, follow safety rules - do not cut towards yourself.

First, grind the workpiece to Ø 12 mm (Fig. 123, a), cutting off the corners. You will receive a cylinder, one end of which will be rounded with a knife (Fig. 123, b). Measure 10 mm from the rounded end of the workpiece and make a cut around the circle to Ø 6 mm.

Use a knife to process the body of the pin to Ø 6 mm and polish it (Fig. 123, c), and at the same time the head.

When all the parts are made, tightly connect the lid and the body of the salt shaker (you can use a clamp for this) and, holding them with your hands, drill a hole through the lid and to a depth of 15 mm in the body (Fig. 124). Then reassemble the salt shaker and, if there are any small discrepancies between the lid and the body, remove them using sandpaper.

After this operation, separate the parts of the salt shaker and begin marking patterns on the lid. Here you will perform one of the most beautiful figures geometric carving- “leaves with teeth” (Fig. 125).

You already have a longitudinal center line. Step back 35 mm from the end where there is no hole and draw a transverse axis (Fig. 126, i). Having taken the dimensions from the template, draw a square 60 x 60 mm, for which, from the point of intersection of the axes, put 30 mm on four sides and put marks (Fig. 126, a). Build a square through them (Fig. 126, b). Through the same points, mark a square turned at an angle of 45° (Fig. 126, c),
Using a compass with an opening of 30 mm, inscribe a circle in a square and draw arcs from the corners of the large square with the same radius, as shown in Fig. 126, d. From the corners of the same square, draw arcs with a radius of 34 mm - from horizontal to vertical axes (Fig. 126, e), and also draw diagonals (Fig. 126, f). These diagonals will help you perform a number of constructions (Fig. 126, g):

1) in the corners of I, divided by diagonals into paired triangles, write “pyramids”;

2) in triangles II, which form a small square with concave sides, also write “1tiramidt”. You will get a “star”.

The large arcs you drew with a compass formed a leaf-like figure. This is not a leaf, it is a bed, that is, the place in which the leaf lies. To perform it yourself, it is necessary, stepping back 1 mm from the line of the bed, to draw parallel lines(Fig. 126, h).

Try to do this by hand. If that doesn't work, use a compass.

The veins and teeth of the leaf shown on the template will appear later, after cutting out the leaf itself. Therefore, there is no need to depict them now.

It's time to pick up a blunt knife. But before you move on to carving, understand the names of the leaf elements shown in Fig. 127, which will be used in further description: 1 - bed line; 2 - leaf contour line; 3 - center line of the leaf; 4 - clove; 5 - vein.

When carving, you must use the sequence that is suggested to you. Otherwise, it is impossible to accurately reproduce the composition of the drawing.

First, the contour line of the leaf is cut (cut). This is done in the same way as when cutting through a “straw”, only in this case - along an arc. The injection depth is 2 mm (Fig. 128, c). This must be done on all leaves. Then, cutting the bridge with 1 toe of the knife between the contour and the bed (Fig. 128, b), holding the knife at an angle of 45° relative to the plane of the lid, make a trim, as on a “straw”. But here this is done on one side, and the toe of knife 2 should pass under the leaf, extending beyond the line of its contour by 2-3 mm (Fig. 128, b).

When you pass the knife from one jumper to the other, you will get a one-sided “straw”.

Having trimmed the bed on all the leaves, proceed to carving the leaves themselves. To do this, make a cut along the center line of the leaf. Hold the knife vertically, deepening its toe gradually from the edge to the middle, where the depth should be about 3 mm, and then gradually bring it out to the other edge (Fig. 128, c). After this, taking into account the directions of the wood layers, trim the left and right parts of the leaf. When trimming, try to hold the knife at an angle of no more than 30-35° to the surface of the lid (Fig. 128, d).

After cutting out all the leaves, mark using rice. 129, veins. They are drawn by hand.

The veins are cut without preliminary pricking or cutting, although the result is a “straw,” albeit a short one. To perform this, place the cutting edge of the knife at a distance of 0.5 mm from the vein line (Fig. 130, a). At the same time, hold the knife at an angle of 45° relative to this line. Apply pressure with the knife so that the cutting edge evenly penetrates the wood. Then do the same on the other side (Fig. 130, b), and you will get a short “straw” on the leaf (Fig. 130, c).

To obtain a clove, use the toe of a knife to pierce the initial part of the vein, about 2 mm (Fig. 130, d), and then make a trim at an angle to it (Fig. 130, e). As a result, the “leaf with teeth” will look like in Figure 130, f.

When the leaves are ready, cut the corner shapes and the central star. They are familiar to you and do not present any difficulties in your work.

After finishing the carving, assemble the salt shaker by first dropping a drop of PVA glue into the hole in the body. There the connecting pin must be fixed motionless. The lid should rotate freely (Fig. 131). Now your salt shaker is ready and will henceforth serve for its intended purpose.