Making a sword from wood is easy. How to make a wooden sword

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In this article I tried to show how to make a new wooden covering for the handle handle, cover it with leather and wrap it with thread for reliability. For convenience, in what follows we will simply call this wooden lining a handle. What the hilt of a sword consists of is written in the article Anatomy of a sword, sword, saber.

This project consists of two parts. Part I deals with adding new wood pieces, and Part II deals with wrapping the grip handle in leather.

Part I of this project deals with the Oakeshott Type XIV sword hilt. The sword came with a crossguard that was a little uneven, so I decided to fix it and at the same time adjust the grip to my hand. The picture below shows the hilt on the sword and you can see that the crosspiece was not installed correctly, not much to the side of the fuller. I also couldn’t get enough of the fact that the crosspiece is quite ordinary, and a little small for my taste.

Cheren doesn't look too bad, but that's not enough for me, and I want to destroy her to fix the sword. To change this handle the way I want, I will need to remove the skin and wood core and start over.

Disassembling the sword hilt

I removed the skin and then split the wood and threw it away. The wood was glued together from several parts, but it held tightly. It was possible to carefully remove it by removing the pommel, but to do this I would have to grind off the tip of the shank and pick out the pommel, but I didn’t want additional damage.

Then I gave the pommel a little tap with a hammer and it slid down as shown in the picture below. As you can see, there was some metal at the top of the tang and it flared out towards the blade. It was impossible to remove the pommel without damaging it without splitting the wood beforehand.

The following picture shows only the pommel and the tip of the shank. The hole in the pommel goes all the way to the end and they had some glue applied to the bottom.

Assembling the sword hilt

to the begining

After I remade the crosspiece, I widened the hole in the pommel, shortened the tang to reinforce it, and made an additional recess at the top of the pommel.

First of all, I got the crossguard aligned with the sword's fuller. (See picture below) ..looks much better.

I also re-made the blackboard with wood lining and covered it with leather, but more details will be covered later. Below in the picture is the original state of the pommel.

The next shot shows the pommel after I've milled out the hidden area for the tang.

The following illustration shows the pommel after I installed it (you can see the ugly blob). I probably nailed it too hard, but it really came out strong. I'm sure everything is done very tightly.

In the picture below, the pommel and tang are cleaned, this is how it looks and is holding securely at the moment!

Below is a picture of the polished shank and pommel. The tip of the shank is barely visible.

The picture below shows the finished sword with the new hilt. I'm very happy with how it all turned out. Everything fits very tightly and now it has a lot more metal tang in the pommel.

Wooden parts of the sword hilt

to the begining

I deleted the old ones wooden parts handles and I have a few small pieces of poplar wood on hand to make new pen. I cut the first piece a little larger than the final size of the piece. This gives some permission for processing and grinding. I laid the shank on a piece of wood and marked it by drawing some lines on the wood. Then I took some small pieces of poplar that would end up being the sides of the handle. They will be 6mm (1/4") thick, while the top and bottom pieces will be 13mm (1/2") thick.

The picture above shows how I glued (using any good wood glue) two 6mm pieces of wood to the bottom. Clamped them and let them dry for an hour.

The picture above shows two side pieces glued to a top piece identical to the bottom piece, cut out and ready to be glued together.

I have generally been able to form a solid wooden handle and fit it onto the tang, but may have some trouble fitting it to the tang. It is much easier to attach the handle if it consists of two parts. So I use an old carpenter's trick: gluing two pieces (top and bottom) with a piece of paper between them. This creates a firm pressure and allows me to adjust the shape and size of the handle and then separate the handle before installing it onto the tang.. The picture above shows a piece of paper being glued to the bottom. It's best to use something a little thicker than standard paper. Here I'm using a piece of cardboard.

I mentioned earlier that the two pieces were 6mm (1/4") thick. But the tang on this sword was closer to 4.7mm (3/16"), so I planed part of the underside so that the gap was only slightly larger than 4.7 mm so that there is some space for the epoxy glue that we will use to glue the handle to the pommel. Slowly here...don't remove too much wood...it's better to remove too little than a little more!

Apply a little glue on the other side of the paper and on the top of the pen. The picture above shows all the parts clamped, so they should hold for about an hour. Use only wood glue here.


If you have everything glued together, then you are now ready to turn the stock into nice rounded handles from a square piece of stock. Again, go slow here. Grinding machine really convenient for turning, but it can be done manually. I tried to grind so that the top and bottom of the handle matched the thickness of the tang and cross.	After careful grinding I got a handle. I sanded it down so it was pretty smooth. You'll need to do some final sanding after you glue on the shank, but for the most part you can finish it at this point.

In the picture above I just showed what happens in the end. Again, I repeat: I tried to make the handle correspond to the thickness of the pommel in the upper part, and the crosspiece in the lower part. In addition, I am sure that I made a handle that is comfortable for my hand.

If your pommel is not yet riveted to the tang, make sure that the handle fits snugly and puts even pressure on the tang, cross and pommel.

I'm happy with the shape and finish of the handle and I'm now ready to split the handle into two halves. Simply insert a screwdriver and gently lift the two pieces away from each other along the line on the paper. When you split in two, you will need to sand a little to remove any paper that is left on the wood. The picture above shows that my torment is coming to an end and that it will all work!

I keep the workpiece glued for 5 minutes epoxy glue, so that wooden handle adhered evenly to the shank. Make sure the shank is clean and free of any oils. Mix and apply epoxy to the tang and both parts of the handle. Make sure you don't plan too much of a gap on the sides or ends. Make sure when you clamp them that they do not fall out and are properly aligned. You may want to check them a few times to ensure they remain aligned while the glue dries. Epoxy takes approximately 20 minutes.

Also make sure that the handle fits flush against the guard so it won't dangle. I usually add a little epoxy around the guard for good measure.

My handle was taken apart and I widened the tip of the tang a bit. The epoxy remains slightly flexible for several hours, so after gluing, I attached the pommel to the shank. Thus, the pommel should also sit firmly and hold the handle. Everything will completely harden within a few days.

The picture above shows the finished sword. You will probably need to touch up by sanding any glue that may have leaked, or just for a final clean up. Just be careful not to scratch metal parts doing this.

And now you can take the sword in your hand. But that is not all.

How to make a sword?

Every boy in childhood dreamed of having a real sword. And childhood dreams must be fulfilled, even if you are already well over 30. Moreover, historical reconstruction and role-playing games based on fantasy have long ceased to be the lot of teenagers and students, and quite serious and respected people are engaged in them, since this is an interesting and rather unusual activity. Also, do not forget that a sword on the wall is a decoration for any interior.

A sword at home can be made from the following materials:

made of wood;
made of metal.

Sword made of wood

In order to do wooden sword, you need to decide on a tool. For this you may need:

thick plywood/small board;
Grinder;
hacksaw;
plane;
scissors;
chisel;
brush;
sandpaper;
epoxy resin;
dye.

Progress

Once everything you need is prepared, you can begin making the sword.

one-handed;
one and a half;
two-handed.

One-handed sword

A one-handed sword is no longer than 60 centimeters and, as a rule, is used in conjunction with a shield.

Bastard sword

One-and-a-half is a transitional option between one-handed and two-handed swords. You can hold it with one or two hands.

Two-handed sword

The two-handed sword is the longest and heaviest. When pressed into the ground, the handle reaches the owner's chin.

Any of the three blades must be properly balanced. The center of gravity of the weapon is always shifted towards the handle. In the case of one-handed and bastard swords, this is the distance of one palm from the guard. A two-handed sword has a little more - two palms from the guard. The guard is a component of the hilt, a kind of retainer that prevents the hand from slipping onto work surface weapon and protects the hand from the enemy’s sword sliding along its own blade. The guard usually looks like a cross that separates the handle from the blade.

Metal sword

Having dealt with the wooden ball, we proceed to making a sword from metal. It's actually not much more complicated.

We will need:

metal plate;
wooden block for the handle;
"Bulgarian";
drill and set of drills;
sandpaper;
hacksaw;
chisel;
vice;
brush.

And keep in mind that a metal sword is already quite a serious weapon and requires appropriate treatment.

Making a sword

Now you know how to make a sword with your own hands. All that remains is to prepare the necessary material and get to work.

Recently, my son (he is 7 years old) came up to me and asked if I could make him a sword. I thought a little... and decided to make a good wooden sword with my own hands, the one I dreamed of as a child, but no one made it for me. Without thinking twice, on February 23rd I decided to give such a gift.

As the main material I used wooden slats, 50 x 30 x 700.

He used a wide variety of tools. This is a plane and a chisel with a whole bunch of files. First of all, let's outline common features sword. We begin to cut off the excess little by little.

Of course, in addition to the blade, the sword must have a spectacular hilt. We cut it out in a similar way.

In principle, you can do everything yourself, but if you have a normal CNC machine capable of doing the work in a given interval, everything becomes much easier. Glue the blade and hilt together.

We also glue a leather strip to the handle using glue. This is more for decoration.

Actually, this is what we have. Thank you for your attention. As for the owner of this sword (new), I will say this, I liked it, even very much.

Author of the work AkroYas

You will need a piece of rolled steel grade 65g (the highest quality steel suitable for making a sword) and measuring 1000x50x10mm. Where can I get it?

The easiest way is to order it from a blacksmith, because to obtain a high-quality sword, a strip of steel must be forged in order to “knock out” harmful impurities from it and compact the metal.

You can also forge a car spring, preferably a new one, since the old one, which has exhausted its resources, will definitely have microcracks, which is not good for your future sword.

After the blacksmith or you yourself (try it) forges a strip of steel, give it for flat grinding to facilitate further machining of the product. You can try to remove the scale with a file by hand.

The next step in processing the sword blank will be milling the fuller, or otherwise the groove, to give the sword rigidity and lighten the weight. The figure shows options for the cross-section of the sword and the location of the fuller on it.

The valleys should be milled with a finger cutter having a diameter of 20-25 millimeters, or you can use abrasive wheel, selecting the desired width and convexity. Choose the width of the fuller depending on the number of grooves on the blade. If you make one central gutter, then you should choose a valley width of 10-20 mm; if there are two, then the width should be 5-7 mm.

When removing the fuller, a membrane thickness of at least 2 millimeters should be left at the junction of the grooves at the end of the sword. And when roughing along the entire length of the gutter, the thickness of the mentioned membrane must be at least 3 millimeters in order to leave a “field of activity” during finishing processing.

In order to remove pits and scratches from the blade after milling, grind its surface sandpaper on a fabric basis. Replacing it, as the flaws disappear, with a finer-grained one. We stuff sandpaper onto a wooden block 150-200 mm long. And using a reciprocating motion we polish the surface of the blade. The figure shows a semicircular outline that the author used to polish the fuller.

When the fuller acquires a matte tint, you can leave it alone for a while and work on the geometry of the blade. It is necessary to reduce the thickness of the blade towards the tip and make bevels from the border of the valley to the blade edges.

To do this, place the blade on a flat beam and, securing it with clamps, begin processing the surface with a large, wide, coarse-toothed file. We hold the file with both hands across the blade, having previously clamped the beam in a bench vice.

Let’s say that initially the thickness of the blade at the crosspiece will be 8 millimeters, then, therefore, as you approach the tip, the thickness should evenly and smoothly decrease to 3-4 millimeters. The reduction in thickness should begin not from the cross itself, but somewhere at a distance of 100-150 millimeters from it.

First, remove half of the excess metal from one side, then turn it over and process the other side completely. Next, we turn the blade back over and finish the first side again.

After you reach the right size, continue further processing with a smaller file, but in the usual way, that is, holding it lengthwise in order to remove large tubercles and pits. It is advisable to secure the file in a device similar to a plane and drive it along the entire surface of the blade.

Now, to completely remove large scratches, treat the surface with a narrow file, again holding it across the blade.

Now you need to make bevels with a section approximately like this.

The blade blades can be sharpened to a thickness of 0.5-1 mm. Then your sword will be able to cut off heads like cabbages. But if you are planning training battles, then you should sharpen the edges to a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It will be more secure.

The transition of the blade section to the shank, in order to avoid fracture, should not have sharp internal corners. The transition should be as smooth as possible, tapering evenly towards the end of the shank.

The fuller at the tip should also not have a sharp end; it gradually merges with the plane of the blade without any edges.

As a result of our many days of painstaking work, we received a blade ready for further heat treatment.

We need to harden the sword blade to a hardness of 55 HRC. The meaning of hardening steel is that the product must first be evenly heated, then quickly cooled. But first, before hardening the blade, it must be “annealed” to relieve the internal stresses of the steel. To anneal, the blade is heated and allowed to cool together with the furnace (electric furnace or forge) for approximately 10-12 hours. The blade should be heated to a temperature of 850-900 degrees Celsius. Visually, you need to look for the blade to acquire a bright red or orange color.

After annealing the blade, we begin to harden it. To do this, we heat the blade again to the temperature indicated above and cool it as quickly as possible. If you use carbon steel, then cool the blade in water or diesel fuel. If alloyed, then cool it in a machine or vegetable oil. Since our blade is long, and it needs to be completely and vertically immersed in the coolant, it is best to use a 200 liter iron barrel as a container.

After the blade has been hardened, it must immediately be “tempered” so that the steel becomes more viscous, but does not lose its hardness. To do this, the blade is reheated gas burner up to temperature: carbon steel -200-250 degrees, alloyed 250-300 degrees Celsius. You need to visually ensure that heating occurs before yellow color. After heating, the blade is cooled again in air, or in water or oil.

If it happens that your blade has led and it has become slightly crooked, you can use the following simple device called a press. Having straightened the blade under the press, as shown in the photo below, you need to heat it again with a gas burner to a temperature of 200 degrees Celsius. If by eye, then until it acquires a light yellow color.

Instead of abs, you can use heavy weights.

If everything is done correctly, then you can begin further processing of the blade, namely grinding and polishing it.

To polish the surface of the blade to a mirror shine, we need three abrasive stones of different grain sizes.

We fix the blade on a flat surface and begin to grind first with a coarse-grained stone, tearing off the pits and deep scratches. Then we do the same actions with a medium-grained stone, and carry out the final grinding with a fine-grained stone. During the grinding process, do not forget to regularly wet the stones in water to remove dirt and small metal filings, and also wipe the blade itself with a wet rag.

Grinding is carried out until the surface of the blade is smooth with a metallic sheen. Finally polish the blade with a soaked polishing pad, after which you can apply diamond paste. Spread the paste on the fabric and rub the surface with it until you get an absolutely mirror-like shine. Ideally, the surface of the blade should reflect objects, as if in a mirror.

But don't think that your job is going to be easy. To get the desired result, you will need to really WORK, in the full sense of the word, for several days.

Now let's start making the handle and guard. A classic guard is quite easy to make. Order a blank from a blacksmith that looks something like this.

Or pick up a similar piece of iron yourself.

Remove excess metal with a large file and mill a groove for the shank to pass through.

Then, using smaller files, give the final shape to the guard. All that remains is to sand it with sandpaper and adjust the hole for a tight connection with the shank.

It is not necessary to harden the guard, but if you want, you can harden it.

Immediately behind the guard and at the end of the shank there are sleeves made of bronze. The sleeves can be turned to lathe. A hole is drilled along the central axis, which is milled with a finger cutter to form a groove into which the shank will fit. Naturally, all dimensions will come from the dimensions of your shank, so make the sleeves experimentally.

The handle is best made by wrapping it with leather strips, fabric cord or twisted wire.

In the next article we will look at how it will be possible for this sword to ensure that our reconstruction is complete.

The article used material from the book by V.N. Khorev “Reconstruction of ancient weapons”

Many people strive to fulfill their childhood dreams. You can turn one of them into reality by learning how to make a sword. After all, who among us has not imagined himself as a hero of fairy tales or popular films with a luxurious blade in his hands? Making this fantasy come true is not difficult at all. You just need to collect necessary materials and tools and carve out some free time for work.

Want to learn how to make a sword with your own hands at home? First, decide for what purpose you need it. If you like to participate in reconstructions of knightly battles, a wooden blade will suit you. When organizing children's party crafts made from oblong balls will come in handy. And science fiction fans will appreciate the shining weapons of the Jedi.

Wooden sword

How to make a sword from wood? First, find suitable material and decide on the shape of your future weapon. After that, you can safely get down to business. Cut the board using a hacksaw, giving the product the required length.

After this, give the workpiece the shape you like and round all the corners. You should end up with an arc the size of which will be approximately three to five millimeters.

As you work, pay special attention to the direction in which you cut the wood. After all, how to make a sword against the fibers of the material? The answer is simple - no way. Move along them and make sure that the surface is perfectly smooth and does not form knots, unevenness or any cracks. This condition is the key to long service life of the product. If you don't do this, the blade will break very quickly.

Convenient and beautiful

As you shape the blade, start creating the handle as well. At this stage, it is determined how comfortable it will be to hold the sword in battle. Note! Under no circumstances should the holder be given a round shape! It is better to give preference to oval or rectangular.

This is the key to making the sword comfortable. After all, in practice you will use the weapon in two combat planes, and round handle will create unnecessary discomfort and may even cause injury. To make the blade even safer, make sure that there are no sharp or protruding fragments on the handle that could damage it when in contact with the palm.

How to make a wooden sword of an original shape? To do this, cut in advance using a hacksaw or electric jigsaw desired contours. Only after this can you proceed to surface treatment using a knife or plane. When you give it its final shape, make sure that the proportions are correct. Make the central part thicker and the tip thinner.

To give the product additional strength, coat it with epoxy resin. After finishing the honing and sanding, apply several layers of it to the surface. You can thin the final layer with paint. It will give the product completeness and make it more beautiful.

Nuances of work

How to make a wooden sword look like a combat sword? Using a guard made of rubber will help you in this matter. If you have little experience in fighting, make it large and round to better protect your hand during a fight. This part is fixed at the bottom of the blade at the place where the handle begins. You can secure it using wire covered with electrical tape.

At this stage of work, the level of blade balancing is determined. How to make a wooden sword more convenient in this regard? To do this, you will need lead weights, which must be hidden under a layer of winding. It is made using nylon threads, wet leather cords or ordinary fabric. These materials reduce the sliding of the palm on the surface to a minimum and add convenience to using the tool.

Now you know how to make a sword out of wood, and you can treat yourself to a new toy at any time. This blade is more suitable for adults, while a less weighty weapon can bring a lot of joy to children. We will consider the process of its creation below.

Ball blade

How to make a sword from a ball? To do this, you only need two things: the material itself and a hand pump to inflate it.

Before starting work, you should know that to complete it you need to have manual dexterity and patience. Therefore, if you plan, for example, to make a lot of such tools for a children’s party, practice twisting them in advance. Also be prepared for unpleasant incidents when inflatable sticks burst in your hands, because not all of them have a sufficient level of strength and pliability.

Basic rules

How to make a sword from a ball? Remember the basic requirements for the workflow.

Step-by-step instruction

How to make a sword at home using balls? It's not difficult at all. You will spend about ten minutes making it. Follow the instructions - and you will definitely succeed.

Inflate the balloon using a pump. In this case, it must be held with the thumb and forefinger. Tie it and bend it about 20 centimeters from the tip.
Roll the piece again to create a snake-like shape.
Find the center of the tube and gently, but firmly, press on all its parts.
Twist the toy a few more times and straighten it carefully. This way you will make a comfortable handle for the future blade. The long part of the tube will serve as the tip of the sword.

This completes the work on the craft. You can make as many of these toys as you like and arrange a wonderful pirate or knight party for your child. Children are guaranteed to be delighted with your crafts.

Turning into Jedi

Cult movie " star Wars" excites the minds of his fans around the world with the question of how to make a laser sword. For your fantasy to become a reality and for you to feel the power of a shining Jedi blade in your hands, you need to do some pretty simple work.

First, collect the materials needed to create the weapon. You will need:

Polycarbonate transparent or frosted tube at the tip of the sword;

Rolled polyethylene to diffuse light;

- “Oracal” to reflect radiance;

Nickel plated furniture leg to make the handle;

Switch button;

Strong color diode (approximately three watts of power);

Holder for three batteries;

Resistor.

Work process

How to make a laser sword? To begin, measure the desired length of the tip and saw off the tube. Then decide on the parameters of the handle and use a jigsaw to shorten the furniture leg to the required size.

After this, insert the diode and a roll of polyethylene into the blade of the blade. Separately cut a circle from oilcloth and place it in the upper part of the workpiece. In learning how to make a Jedi sword, an indispensable assistant The material will be "Oracal", which will serve as a light reflector. It needs to be secured inside the craft.

Now make a hole in the handle for the power button. A file will help you with this. Next, connect the resistor, battery holder and switch together and insert them into the handle. Attach a diode to them.

Final stage

Wrap the end of the polycarbonate tube with electrical tape (this will take a couple of rolls) until it barely fits into the handle. Glue a nut between the resulting layers, and make a hole in the handle for a bolt that will secure the blade.

Solder the tube with a cap, screw it to the handle, decorate the latter as your heart desires - and your Jedi blade is ready. You can safely go with him to the war against Darth Vader.

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