Where to start screeding the floor in an apartment. Making a floor screed

There are many reasons why a room needs to have a floor screed. This process is quite complex and requires special skills, especially in cases where screeding is carried out over large areas. But in relatively small spaces, such as an apartment or a private house, you can handle all the work yourself.

It is enough to strictly follow the technology, having first studied the detailed recommendations for beginners.

Peculiarities

The main purpose of the screed is to make the concrete base under the flooring as level as possible. This is done for both aesthetic and practical reasons: furniture will not wobble on a flat surface, and decorative floors will last much longer and will not deform.

The screed is required in the following cases:

On earthen soil in a private house, garage and other premises;

Under parquet, laminate, linoleum and others modern coatings, according to the laying technology, requiring an absolutely flat surface of the base layer;

When it is necessary to waterproof or thermally insulate the floor in a room, including when installing a warm water or electric floor system.

Features of installation technology and choice of materials depend on many factors. It is necessary to take into account such characteristics of the room as the condition of the old coating, ceiling height, floor and the presence of a basement. Based on these data, the required thickness of the screed is calculated and the necessary materials are selected.

Budget options, time-tested - cement-sand or concrete mixtures, are laid on the ground in a private house and garage. They can also be used in an apartment on the ground floor.

For apartments on the second floor and above, it is better to fill the floor with more expensive, but lightweight self-leveling mixtures or dry screeds.

According to the installation method, there are three types of screed:

Dry or prefabricated screed. This is a structure made of durable plasterboard or plywood building boards coated with a waterproofing compound. The thickness of the slabs is 15-30 mm. Laying is done on a layer of dry polystyrene or expanded clay with the sheets overlapping each other so that the joints are completely closed. The prefabricated method is the simplest and does not require drying before the finishing coat. Possible only in rooms with low humidity. In cases where the coating is not smooth enough, it is filled with a liquid self-leveling mixture.

Semi-dry screed It is a concrete or cement-sand mixture with a minimum amount of water. Installing such a floor requires considerable experience and a lot of special devices, so this method is used mainly by professionals.

Depending on the installation method, the screed can be made either single-layer or multi-layer. A multilayer screed is made from rough concrete and a smooth finishing layer. The roughing layer serves to correct large floor defects and impart the necessary rigidity to the structure. Its thickness should be at least 2 cm. The finishing layer, the thickness of which is from 3 to 15 mm, is needed to ensure that the surface becomes perfectly flat and smooth.

There are also three methods of screeding based on the nature of adhesion to the base:

Bound or continuous screed. In this case, direct adhesion of the material to the main coating occurs. It is important to ensure good adhesion and uniformity of the screed.

This method can only be used on a dry base no lower than the second floor of the building.

Screed on the separating layer. Such a layer can be waterproofing materials, or in rare cases, oiled paper. The base and screed layers are independent of each other. According to the laying technology, the minimum layer is 30 mm, reinforcement may be required.

Floating screed performed on materials intended for heat, hydro and noise insulation with allowances for the walls of about 15 cm. Thus, the concrete layer and the floor itself are not connected to the base. The minimum layer thickness is 5 cm, reinforcement is required. Installed on the first floors of residential and utility rooms on concrete and soil foundations.

Characteristics of floor coverings

The choice of decorative floor coverings on the modern market is quite wide and is limited only by the owner’s imagination and the operational characteristics of the room. Under any of the coverings, the floor screed must be done correctly. And since they have different requirements for materials and evenness, it is necessary to carefully select a leveling composition.

Thus, for laying parquet, laminate and self-leveling polymer floors, you need a perfectly smooth and horizontally flat surface. To construct such a screed, self-leveling liquid mixtures are used. Moreover, for a polymer self-leveling floor the self-leveling mixture must be based on the same polymers.

To lay linoleum, carpet or tiles in the bathroom, a flat concrete or cement-sand screed will be sufficient.

In new buildings, floor screed may not be necessary, but, unfortunately, this does not always happen. It’s good if the apartment was purchased with a rough finish, then you can make a minimal screed and begin further repairs. It’s worse when the apartment is turnkey, and the quality of the finished coating leaves much to be desired. Then it needs to be redone, completely dismantling the low-quality layer.

In a private house, to save money, you can make a concrete or cement-sand screed. On earthen soil, it is necessary to make a concrete base on a multi-layer cushion of gravel, crushed stone, expanded clay and waterproofing materials. Lightweight mixtures may only be needed on the second and third floors.

Flooring can be installed on almost any surface, you just need to choose the right composition. The exception is wooden flooring. On such surfaces, the finished coating can quickly deform and crack, and the wood underneath can rot. Of course, there are special mixtures, but they can be quite expensive. Therefore, if it is possible to dismantle it to the concrete base or to the ground, then it is better to do just that.

If it is not possible to remove the wooden floor, then it must be prepared very carefully. To do this, it is necessary to replace all rotten and damaged elements, sand the surface of the wood and cover it with a special primer.

Where to begin?

To complete the work in a short time, the premises, materials and tools are prepared. All communications, such as electrical wiring, water supply, sewerage and heating, are laid, and the entire premises are renovated. There are also requirements for the microclimate of the room: air temperature - within 5-25 ° C, humidity - 60%, without sharp changes. It is important to avoid drafts and avoid direct sunlight.

The most difficult part is preparing the soil base. First of all, you need to remove the top layer of soil, the thickness of which can reach 40 cm. In cases where the distance from the soil to the leveling mark of the screed is more than 35-40 cm, pour a layer of sand of the required thickness. After this, the entire surface is carefully compacted using a special vibration machine or a heavy log 1 meter long. The surface is considered sufficiently compacted if there are no traces of shoes left on it.

To calculate the materials that will be needed to install a screed on a concrete base, the highest point of the floor is determined. This is the mark necessary to ensure that the finished coating is even. It is usually located in one of the corners or near one of the walls. It is defined as follows:

From the threshold of the room, measure 1 meter vertically along the wall and make a mark with a pencil. Using a construction or laser level, draw a straight horizontal line on the wall;

Using a tape measure, take measurements from the drawn line to the floor every 10-15 cm. The point, the distance to which is the smallest, is the highest point of the floor;

Mark the resulting measurements on the rail less to the extent that the floor will rise;

Using the same strip, make marks of the highest point of the floor along the entire perimeter of the walls and draw a control line along them. Clear the wall of plaster 0.2-0.3 cm above the marks made.

Also, to calculate the height of the screed, you need to take into account that there should be no differences in floor level at the junctions of different rooms after laying the floor covering. The exception is the bathroom and toilet, where the level should be lower to avoid leakage in case of unexpected accidents of water supply and sewerage pipes, and some design solutions. In this case, the thickness of the coatings is taken into account, and the difference is compensated by the levels of the screed.

Materials

Depending on the characteristics of the room and the selected floor covering, you can select one or more possible options floor screed compounds, which may require additional materials:

Concrete screed: Cement grade M400 is used, and for heavy floor loads - M500. Depending on the fillers, there are several recipes for preparing the mixture. The most common is 3 parts sand to 1 part cement, add 2 liters of water per 10 kg of the resulting mixture. Using large inclusions such as crushed stone, expanded clay or gravel - 1 part cement, 4 parts coarse filler, 2 parts sand, 0.4 parts water. For strength, polypropylene fiber is added to such mixtures at the rate of 50 g per 100 kg of mixture. For plasticity, plasticizers are used, the required amount of which is indicated in the instructions.

Cement-sand screed: 1 part cement, 4 parts perlite, 2 parts sand, 13 parts water. The preparation of the mixture is done in several stages, the order of which must be strictly observed. You may also need to adjust the amount of water to achieve the desired consistency. Plasticizers can be added. The layer of such a floor is made from 2 cm; reinforcement is recommended to be done only with a layer of 4 cm or more. Dries within 3-7 days.

Self-leveling mixtures They are sold ready-made and diluted with the required amount of water specified in the instructions. There are mixtures based on cement, gypsum or a combination thereof, as well as using polymers. Gypsum-based screed must not be used in rooms with high humidity, since when wet the plaster acquires the consistency of sticky dough. The thickness of the mixtures can be from 0.3 to 30 cm, which is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions, but given their high cost, it is advisable to make a layer up to 3 cm. In this case, the thickness of the rough layer is 5-25 mm, and for a finishing surface 1-2 is enough mm. Drying time – from 10 hours to 3 days, depending on the composition.

Dry screed- These are large sheets of plasterboard or plywood that are laid on a layer of bulk materials such as polystyrene or expanded clay. Further work on such a screed can begin immediately after its installation.

When working with any type of screed, a primer and putty will be required. For concrete and cement-sand screeds, a universal primer or concrete contact is suitable. Suitable types of primers for self-leveling floors are indicated on the packaging of the mixtures.

The putty must be selected on a resin or adhesive basis.

You will also need polyurethane foam to fill large gaps near heating pipes. To lay the reinforcing layer, the easiest way is to use a special fine-mesh mesh made of wire or plastic. For floors with increased load, a welded steel mesh or reinforcement structure is needed, which is welded at the work site. To fix the reinforcing structure, you need to prepare special supports, which can be made of plastic, wire or metal. For 1 sq. m you need from 3 to 5 units of such clamps.

In cases where it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing materials, the choice is limited by the condition of the base and the chosen screed method. Based on their composition, there are 4 types of waterproofing:

Polymer;

Bituminous;

Bitumen-polymer;

Mineral.

There are also differences in the method of laying the material:

Roll or film. This is the most popular method of waterproofing using polyethylene film or roofing felt. Modern views Polymer multilayer membranes also have thermal insulating properties. Such materials are used for laying on earthen soil and on the first floors of apartment buildings. Self-leveling mixtures and cement-sand screed less than 2 cm thick are not used on this type of waterproofing due to poor adhesion and the risk of surface deformation;

• Liquid. These are special compositions that differ in varying degrees of viscosity and have water-repellent properties;

Mastics and powders. The latter are crumbly compositions based on plasticizers and various binders, which are diluted with water according to the instructions immediately before use.

In some cases, materials with a heat-insulating effect are laid on top of the waterproofing layer. This is a mandatory procedure when installing screeds on the ground and for underfloor heating systems. You can choose from the usual bulk materials, such as perlite, expanded clay, crushed stone or coarse sand. Some people prefer insulation in the form of slabs, which can be made of mineral wool, polyurethane foam or extruded polystyrene foam - penoplex.

Tools

The list of required tools depends on the chosen screed method and some other factors:

Sander. Will be needed to treat the concrete base before work. If the room area is small, at this stage you can use it instead. wire brush. And the concrete screed must be treated with a grinding machine after complete hardening.

Industrial or powerful household vacuum cleaner.

Lighthouses. It is possible to use a T-shaped aluminum profile, round or rectangular steel pipes up to 70 mm in diameter, wooden slats, and dowel-nails. It is worth considering that pipes and slats are dismantled from a partially hardened solution. If the screed is performed using self-leveling mixtures, beacons may not be needed, or special beacons-benchmarks are used.

Building level. A bubble building level is required, the recommended length is from 2 m. For greater convenience, you can additionally use a laser level, with its help it is much easier to install beacons.

Roulette. The minimum length is 8 meters.

Spatulas, trowel.

Rule and a construction mixer or drill with a mixer attachment. The latter is needed for mixing the components of mixtures. For concrete screed it will be more convenient to use a concrete mixer.

Rollers and brushes for applying primer and waterproofing compounds.

Needle roller, paint shoes, squeegees and marker beacons for working with the leveler.

Construction gloves, respirator, safety glasses. To protect the skin, respiratory tract and vision.

Capacities for mixing.

How to calculate consumption?

For bulk mixtures, the average consumption values ​​for a coarse leveler are 2-5 kg ​​per 1 sq. m. m of room with a layer thickness of 1 mm. For finishing leveler – 1.5-1.7 kg per 1 sq. m per 1 mm layer. All that remains to be done is to count the quantity.

Example: multiply the consumption of 5 kg of coarse leveler by a layer thickness of 3 mm, and then multiply by the area of ​​the room in square meters. It turns out the following: 5x3x10=150

In total, you will need 150 kg of self-leveling mixture for a room of 10 square meters. m. Considering that the package contains 25 kg of dry mixture, this is 6 bags of leveler. Calculations for the finishing layer are made according to the same scheme.

For a classic concrete screed per 1 sq. m and a layer thickness of 5 cm you will need 22.5 kg of cement, sand 47.5 buckets with a volume of 10 liters, water 10 liters. For screeds using large inclusions in the form of crushed stone per 1 sq. m and the layer thickness will need 8.5-9.2 kg of cement, 40.7-46.1 kg of crushed stone, 22.8-26 kg of sand.

These calculations are approximate; you need to make accurate calculations yourself based on the recommendations of building materials manufacturers.

Important nuances

If the height difference in the room exceeds 4 cm, then it is necessary to select a starting leveler for the subfloor layer. The cement-sand and concrete composition is always laid along the beacons. In rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom, toilet, kitchen, work with cement-based solutions. In living rooms it is possible to use screed using gypsum.

When installing a multilayer screed, you need to choose solutions that have less weight. It would be better to opt for compositions using expanded clay or polystyrene concrete.

If the differences in the level of the floor surface are small, it is better to fill in self-leveling mixtures. They can be based on cement, gypsum, sand, with additives for plasticity and shortening or increasing drying time. Polymer self-leveling floors based on polyurethane, epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate, despite their high cost, have a wide range of advantages.

Due to the thin self-leveling layer, they are excellent for apartments with low ceilings. The finished surface has good waterproofing properties and is particularly durable; it is not subject to temperature changes, deformation, or exposure to aggressive environments.

For final leveling of the surface, self-leveling mixtures are usually used. This composition can be made into an independent decorative coating when using pigments to create a colored background or pattern. By adding mineral chips or other inclusions to a standard cement mortar and then grinding after the mortar hardens, you can achieve a surface similar to natural stone.

If the area of ​​the room is too large and the work will take more than one day, the surface is divided into several sections using closed beacons or partitions.

Preparatory work

Preparing the room when installing a screed on the ground begins with laying a cushion of thermal and waterproofing. You can choose materials at your discretion, but there are several general recommendations. Layers can be swapped, different fillers used or thickness changed.

A layer of gravel or crushed stone 5-15 cm thick is poured onto the surface prepared in advance. The next layer is 10-15 cm of sand, which can be moistened, and a layer of 10-15 cm of crushed stone or expanded clay. Each layer is carefully compacted using a vibrating machine or a heavy log. Crushed stone must be selected with a fraction of 40-50 mm.

It is recommended to sprinkle layers of crushed stone or expanded clay with crushed stone chips or sand. It is good to level the last layer and check that there are no sharp corners on the crushed stone. If sharp stones remain, the waterproofing material may tear. For better adhesion, it is recommended to pour liquid cement on the top layer and wait until it dries.

For waterproofing on the ground, you can use rolled materials or film with a density of 200 microns. The material must be laid on the base with overlap on each other, the edges must be raised above the level of the future screed by 15 cm and attached with tape to the walls. Attach a damper tape at the level of the screed with a small margin in height. It compensates for the compression and expansion of the screed, thereby preventing deformation of walls and floors due to changes in temperature and humidity.

A reinforcing layer is laid on top of the waterproofing. The best choice is a fine-mesh welded steel mesh that has the necessary rigidity. The steel mesh is installed at a height of 1/3 of the screed thickness using special chair pads. If a reinforced structure is used, After pouring, the concrete will need to be compacted using special vibration equipment.

A room that is too large can be divided into square or rectangular sections, also called maps. One card must be filled in one day and its size depends only on the productivity of workers.

The map is fenced off with formwork made of damp wood or laminated plywood at the same height as the screed; after the cement has set, the formwork must be removed.

To prepare the room for screeding, work begins with dismantling the old covering. Linoleum and wooden floor boards can be torn off quite easily, but tiles will have to be beaten with a hammer drill. Skirting boards and doors along with slopes also need to be removed.

Under the dismantled layer there may be both floor slabs, which will greatly simplify the task, and an old screed. In the second case, the concrete must be carefully inspected. If it crumbles or there are a large number of defects in the form of cracks and chips, the entire layer should be beaten off using a hammer drill. If the old screed is in good condition, only light, thin-layer mixtures can be poured onto it.

After removing construction debris, you need to clean the surface with a sanding machine or brush. Remove crumbling concrete, remaining glue, mixtures and stains. Clean with a vacuum cleaner and degrease the floors with soapy water or solvent. Expand small cracks, chips, potholes and floor-to-wall joints to 5 mm, prime and cover with a thin layer of resin-based putty or adhesive solution. To correct large defects, it is more advisable to use a cement-sand mortar or a self-leveling mixture.

The next step is to treat the surface with a primer using a roller or paint brush. For concrete or cement-sand screed, any universal primer or concrete contact is suitable; for self-leveling self-leveling floors, you need to use a special polymer primer. With a multi-layer screed, priming the surface is mandatory before each layer. The average surface drying time is two hours. If necessary, you can apply a second coat of primer after the first has completely dried.

By using polyurethane foam it is necessary to seal all holes through which the screed mixture can flow into another room or to neighbors below. Most often, such places are located near heating pipes.

You need to wait until the foam has completely dried, cut off the protruding excess, and only then proceed with the rest of the work.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the prepared surface. This must be done in the following cases:

If there are large gaps at the junctions of the floor and walls;

In the bathroom and kitchen;

On the first floor of the house;

When installing underfloor heating systems.

For these four cases, it is best to use roll or film materials. They need to be laid overlapping each other, placing the edges of the material on the walls with a margin of up to 15 cm and attaching with tape. In some cases, you can use liquid waterproofing, which is applied strictly in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. It is recommended to attach a damper tape to the walls on top of the waterproofing layer, the protruding part of which is cut off after completion of the work.

At this stage, a system of warm water or electric floors is installed. Thermal insulation in the form of slabs must be laid underneath them to reduce energy losses. The reinforcing mesh is installed on special chairs, the height of which must be at least 1/3 of the thickness of the screed. During the installation process, damage to the waterproofing layer must not be allowed.

How to do it?

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly to the installation of the screed. All methods have their own nuances, so it makes sense to consider each of them step by step and get acquainted with the detailed step by step instructions How to properly make a floor screed with your own hands.

For screeds made of concrete or cement-sand mixture with a thickness of 3 cm or more, it is necessary to install beacons along which the solution will be leveled. In an apartment, it is most convenient to use an aluminum T-shaped profile as beacons. It does not need to be dismantled and does not weigh down the floor structure. The only drawback of this material is that during the process of installing the profile and laying the screed the protective With When the aluminum layer is damaged, rust may appear over time.

Beacons made of wooden slats and steel pipes must be removed from the partially hardened screed, and the resulting recesses must be covered with the same solution. When screeding on the ground, use steel pipes diameter up to 70 mm. Instead of pipes, you can use a rectangular steel profile.

Beacons are attached to a gypsum mixture or cement-sand mortar, laid out in small slides at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other. Gypsum dries faster without affecting the strength of the coating, so it is more convenient to use in residential areas.

In rooms with high humidity, plaster mounting is not allowed. If a waterproofing layer has not been laid on the base, the beacons can be secured with self-tapping screws.

Beacons need to be placed along one of the walls of the room so that the distance from the beacon to the wall is no more than 10 cm, and the step between them is a quarter less than the length of the rule. After placement on the floor surface, the profile must be leveled using a laser or construction level to the marks of the highest point of the floor. When leveling, the beacons are pressed closer to the floor or raised using pieces of brick.

After the beacons are set, you need to check the level again and, if necessary, adjust them. Large room It is recommended to divide it into several sections with continuous beacons so that you can take a break during work. A solid beacon or barrier must be installed on the threshold of the room. Thermal insulation material should be laid between the beacons, and after the beacon fastenings have dried, you can begin pouring the screed.

The cement-sand mixture is mixed in a concrete mixer or construction mixer. To obtain solid foundation, you must strictly follow the kneading sequence. Place 2 parts water and 4 parts perlite into the prepared container, mix it all very thoroughly until smooth. Then add 1 part water and 1 part cement and mix again. Finally, add 10 parts water and 2 parts sand and mix until a plastic consistency occurs.

During the mixing process, the consistency of the solution must be constantly monitored. If wet sand is used, reduce the amount of water. When ready, the solution should spread easily, not spread, and should have a dough-like consistency. If necessary, plasticizers can be added to the mixture. This screed needs to be laid within an hour. Complete drying time takes 2-3 days.

Concrete mortar is denser than cement-sand, so mixing it with a construction mixer is much more difficult. If possible, it is better to rent a small concrete mixer. The simplest mixture of sand and cement is made like this: add 2 liters of water to a 10 kg mixture of 3 parts sand and 1 part cement and mix. To increase strength, 50 g of fiber fiber can be added per 100 kg of mixture. The solution must be used within 1-1.5 hours; it will reach complete hardening after 28 days.

How to level?

Starting from the wall farthest from the entrance, the mortar is laid out between the beacons and leveled using the rule. It should be perfectly smooth, without nicks or cracks on the working side. Using light pressure, pull the mass towards you, making leveling movements to the left and right. To remove air bubbles, the solution should be pierced with a shovel or metal rod. You can use a special deep vibrator. The surface is treated with it until cement laitance appears on it.

At walls and in hard-to-reach places, the screed is leveled with a spatula. Work can be stopped only when the entire room or fenced-off area is completed. When the concrete has set and can support human weight (after about 12-20 hours), you need to remove all irregularities on the surface of the screed and beacons.

The technology for installing a dry floor screed also involves a layer of waterproofing, gluing a damper tape and installing beacons. The selected dry mixture of materials is poured and leveled between the beacons. More often than others, it is recommended to use expanded clay sand. Then the slabs are installed using double threaded screws and glue. Once the glue has dried, you can make a layer of self-leveling flooring or immediately begin laying the flooring. Fill the remaining depressions with the same composition and smooth with a spatula.

Finishing fill

If the differences in floor height are within 3 cm, you can start pouring self-leveling liquid mixtures. The principles of constructing a finished and rough self-leveling floor are identical, and the difference lies only in the thickness of the poured layer. To make the coating perfectly even, you need to follow the marks on the wall so that the mixture reaches them, but does not completely cover them.

On a surface with a large number of unevenness and differences, dowel-nails or special benchmark beacons can be installed as beacons.

Such beacons look like tripods and are adjusted to the building level. The self-leveling floor must be installed strictly according to the instructions. The instructions also indicate the minimum and maximum layers, which must be strictly adhered to. Water is poured into a specially prepared container and the mixture is gradually poured in, which is stirred with a construction mixer at low speed. Use the prepared mixture within 15-20 minutes.

Filling the floor begins from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. Leveling is done with a squeegee or spatula. Allow no more than 10 minutes between pouring strips. You can walk on the poured floor only with paint shoes. Next, you need to remove the marker beacons and roll the entire surface with a needle roller to remove all air bubbles.

There must be a barrier at the threshold of the room to prevent the mixture from spilling beyond its boundaries. After seven days you can begin laying the flooring. The poured finishing layer can be made into an independent floor covering by adding coloring pigments or applying a pattern.

In this case, after drying, the surface must be coated with a special varnish.

How to repair cracks?

In order to prevent cracks or other defects from appearing on the concrete screed during the drying process, it is necessary to carry out a simple, but daily care during the first 7-10 days. To do this, the surface must be watered 2 times a day and covered with plastic wrap. If the room is hot, it is recommended to increase the frequency of watering to 4 times a day.

If cracks and irregularities do appear on the surface of the screed, they can be removed using a grinding machine or filled with the same compound that was used to make the screed. You can also use self-leveling self-leveling mixtures. To do this, you need to apply a primer mixture to the floor surface, and after it dries, pour a thin layer of finishing filler.

If you have no previous experience with installing screeds, it is recommended to first practice in a small room, such as a storage room. And even experienced professionals need assistants in this matter, so at least two people need to start work.

When choosing screed materials, you need to pay attention to the following points:

The color of the mixture should be gray, without foreign inclusions dirty color. Most often this happens with low-quality mixtures, which contain clay along with sand. A screed based on such material will quickly crack and become unusable;

Under no circumstances should you use mixtures that contain PVA glue as a plasticizer;

The sand for the screed must be sea sand;

If the concrete layer needs to be made thicker, it is recommended to add expanded clay to the solution. This will not affect the strength of the screed, and the load on the base and material consumption will be less.

Do not neglect the use of damper tape. This will not greatly affect costs and will avoid deformation of walls and floors. This tape needs to be attached not only to walls, but also to columns and other structures with which the screed comes into contact.

It is recommended to rinse the construction mixer after each use in operating mode in a separate container with water. This will simplify the task of further cleaning it, and foreign inclusions will not get into the solutions.

To prevent cracking of the screed, you can cut it expansion joints. The depth of such joints should be equal to 1/3 of the thickness of the concrete. Cutting is done on concrete that has set but not completely hardened. After the screed has completely dried, the seams are filled with sealant. There are three types of seams:

Insulating. They are made at the joints of concrete floors and other structures.

Structural. They cut through the place where the concrete hardens unevenly during breaks in pouring for more than 4 hours.

Shrinkable. It is necessary in order to avoid possible deformation when the screed shrinks during the drying process.

In this article on the website we will look at how to properly make a floor screed with your own hands in an apartment, you can see step by step video pouring the screed, accordingly, if you independently follow all the instructions, you can reduce the cost of the work performed as a whole.

Let's find out what a screed is - it is nothing more than a floor layer (base) on which the finishing floor covering is laid: laminate, linoleum, tiles, etc. The type and further operation of your floor covering will depend on the quality of the screed.

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Types of screeds

Floor screed in an apartment can be of two types:

1. Monolithic is cement-sand, gypsum (anhydride), self-leveling, etc.
2. Dry or prefabricated from building boards.

The screed must be selected depending on the room. In rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and kitchens), gypsum and prefabricated screeds should not be used.

Preparatory work

After you have decided what kind of floor screed you will make, you need to prepare the base for pouring. To do this, you need to remove the old floor covering and all loose parts of the base and preferably vacuum it to remove dust from the surface.

Then we cover the base with a primer for better adhesion (Betokontakt is ideal, but a cheaper one is also possible).

For further work you need to find the zero level. To do this you will need a water level or a laser level.

We find the zero level for all rooms of the apartment at once. To do this, place a mark in an arbitrary place at a height of about 1-1.5 m from the floor and then transfer the marks to all the walls in the apartment using a water level.

You should have marks on all walls in all rooms. These marks must be connected with straight lines.

Now we measure the distance from the drawn level to the floor. This measurement must be taken in several places on each wall. The smallest value will indicate that in this place the floor height is maximum.

From the smallest value we subtract the thickness of the screed and measure the resulting length down from the previously drawn level. After connecting all the newly marked marks, a zero level will be obtained for all rooms. This is the level to which the future screed will be poured.

Please note that the thickness of the floor screed cannot be less than 30 mm (exception is leveling with self-leveling mixtures or levelers).

Cement screed is made from one part cement and three parts sand. But now there are many ready-made dry mixtures that just need to be diluted with water and can be used.

Video: do-it-yourself floor screed step-by-step instructions:

Do-it-yourself floor screed technology

The technology for screeding floors in an apartment includes several stages. Ruberoid tape is glued to the walls below so that its upper edge is 15 cm higher than your future screed.

Also, if through holes and cracks are found in the floor, they must be sealed with non-shrink cement (BCC) so that later, when pouring the solution, it will not leak to the neighbors below.

The next stage of pouring is the installation of beacons. All further work depends on the quality and correct installation of the beacons. We use metal T-shaped guides as beacons.

We attach them to the same solution from which we will make the screed. Laying it out in piles. The first beacon should be at a distance of 20cm from the wall. Subsequent beacons are installed parallel to each other, at a distance of 30-40 cm less than the length of the rule.

The longer the rule, the smoother the screed will be.

After laying the beacons on piles of mortar, they must be leveled using a level. Alignment should be along the length of the beacon, as well as between all beacons. As a result, the level in all positions should be at zero.

After leveling, wait for the solution to completely harden.

After installing the beacons and the solution has hardened, you can proceed directly to pouring the solution. To do this, mix the solution and pour it between the two beacons, starting from the far edge.

Then, using the rule, we tighten (level) it along the beacons towards ourselves. And so on until the entire floor screed is filled. It is better to do the filling together, since while one is leveling, the other is mixing the next portion of the solution.

And now you have finished pouring the floor screed, but it’s still too early to relax. Now you need to create conditions under which it will harden properly.

It takes 24-28 days for the cement to completely harden and gain strength. To prevent the screed from drying out too early, it must be moistened 2-3 times a day. This should last about two weeks.

You can also cover it with film, then you can moisturize it as needed.

After 5-8 days you will be able to walk on the screed, but it will be completely ready in a month. Speeding up in such matters will not lead to anything good, but on the contrary, you can only ruin all the work done.

Quality checking

After the required time has passed, you can check the quality of the floor screed.

1. Let's look visually - it should be a uniform gray color.
2. Next we look at the evenness of the surface. Using the two-meter rule placed on the floor, we check the size of the gap. According to our standards, the gap should not exceed 4 mm.
3. The third point will be checking for hardness. If the screed has not been withstood much, then, as already mentioned, it may simply crack. We check for hardness by hitting the hammer tangentially.

That's all the main points when pouring a floor screed with your own hands. By following these rules, you will be able to avoid many mistakes, waste of time, and as a result, save your nerves and reduce the cost of apartment renovation.

By the way, information to think about the scale of the work - for a screed with an area of ​​80 m2 you will need about 100 bags of dry mix.

Video instructions on how to make a floor screed:

If you have any questions, complaints or want to leave your positive feedback, you can do so below! Leave your feedback and suggestions in the comments!

Floor screeding in an apartment is necessary when you want to make the flooring even, without drops or slopes. This approach will increase the surface strength. The ability to finish doorways and install windows depends on the quality of work - all components must be on the same level.

What else is a floor screed used for? With the help of such measures it is easy to insulate the room, reduce the influence of noise, and provide waterproofing. The correct design allows you to disguise utility lines: cables, pipes or other elements.

The difference in the height of the interior space may turn out to be insignificant - up to 1 cm, or it may be a very unpleasant surprise: some new residents on the forums say that the difference in values ​​across the entire area of ​​​​the premises reaches 10 cm.

In order for the floor coverings to last for a long time, and the furniture to be installed without distortions, you need to create the most even bottom possible. Experts say: before starting finishing activities, it is wise to watch videos, get profile information from articles or chat online with like-minded people who will tell you how to properly make a floor screed in different rooms apartments, which is better under specific circumstances, what determines the final choice.

For large spaces, it is wise to invite professionals or, using the advice of experienced people, do the finishing yourself. The screed for the floor of the apartment is carried out according to the general algorithm. There may be nuances when choosing different materials.

Masters suggest combining several techniques, which is justified if the base has significant curvature. Any composition needs to be completely dry before laying the final coating.

Types of floor screed

The following types of floor screeds are relevant today:

• Wet. The solution is mixed with large quantities water, takes a long time to dry. Reinforcement is often used, so this type of screed is suitable if increased load is expected.
• Semi-dry. This variety remains the most popular. A small amount of moisture and the presence of a hardener speed up the drying process. The composition is quite suitable for moderate loads in the residential sector.
• Dry. A universal method for an apartment. Initial alignment is done different types bulk environmentally friendly mixtures. The floor is formed from plasterboard and plywood.
• Self-leveling or self-leveling, which is distributed evenly over the surface.

Each of the modifications has pros and cons: the wet method remains the most durable, but labor-intensive. The semi-dry look is easier to perform and will allow you to complete finishing activities faster.

Plywood or gypsum fiber board are quickly installed, but are suitable for ordinary housing, and with heavy traffic they will be unstable. Self-leveling mixtures are ideal for rooms with minor coating defects.

Any of the named varieties for flooring in an apartment is suitable for installation with different initial data. For example, for a common corridor, if the family is large, you can use a semi-dry option, and in the bedroom limit yourself to a practical liquid one.

Cement strainer

Cement-based mixtures can have different properties, since the proportions of the components can be varied. The concrete floor screed in the apartment can be prepared independently. Experts recommend adhering to the following compound recipe:

• The design mortar is 100, and the cement is “300”? Then you will need part cement and three sand.
• “Two hundred” - respectively 2 to 1.

Calculating the total quantity is simple. With 5 cm height and 20 m 2 room area you will need: 0.5 * 20 = 10 m 3 finished concrete mixture. Plasticizer (you can take liquid soap) will give the pouring ductility.

A caveat: during the kneading process the volume decreases. From 1 m 3 of dry raw materials, no more than 0.75 m 3 of solution will be obtained.

For apartment renovations, only fine aggregate is used: sifted sand. A smart step is to screed the floor with expanded clay. Concrete is mixed with lightweight practical material. This method is rational when it is worth raising the surface to a considerable height. This type of finish is useful when it is necessary to reduce the weight of traditional cement or concrete.

Dry floor screed

Semi-dry floor screed in an apartment is used as a simple main surface or for arranging warm communications. The use of such a solution allows you to begin further work 2-4 days after its installation. Adding fiber fiber will enhance the insulating properties of the coating and make it more stable.

Are you unsure what kind of screed you need, dry or wet? If an average load is expected and the repair time is tight, then the option of using an almost dry mortar will be more attractive.

Dry screed can be completed in one day, and the topcoat is easy to install without any time loss. The base plate is covered with a dry mixture and leveled along the beacons. Then the profile guides are set, onto which the cut sheets of plasterboard (plywood) are attached. The gap between the wall and the floor is filled with polyurethane foam.

Stages of work

The process of leveling the floor and forming the screed is divided into standard stages. They vary depending on the method used, but the schematic sketch remains general:

• First, the initial preparation of the rough surface is done.
• Heat, hydro and sound insulation is carried out.
• If planned, reinforcement is carried out or additional equipment is installed.
• Filling in progress.

The source material for floor screed in an apartment determines the required set of tools. Indispensable assistants are traditional lighthouses. To level the dry backfill you will need slats, a profile, fasteners, a screwdriver, and a jigsaw for cutting.

Self-leveling mixture will require a roller to disperse air bubbles. Wet and semi-dry options are the most voluminous, here you select: a level, a trowel, a spatula, a drill, a mixer for kneading, containers of different sizes, the rule.

Preparing the base

If repairs are being made on the secondary housing market, then it is necessary to remove the old floor screed. Otherwise, the new base may expose hidden defects in the existing coating.

Then you should carefully remove dust, dirt, fine particles, seal cracks between the ceilings and depressions on the plane. After the solution has dried, the slab is sanded using a brush or machine, and all excess is removed. The surface must be thoroughly vacuumed.

Fill

First, make a solution. Cement, sand, water are mixed in proportion (for example, 3: 1: 0.5). Dry sand and cement are stirred, thoroughly rubbing the particles. Then the liquid is gradually poured in. For greater plasticity, you can add liquid soap or dishwashing detergent. If you purchased a ready-made version, then dilute it according to the instructions.

The masters know how to properly pour the mixture throughout the entire room and recommend distributing the resulting mixture evenly over the floor. It is better to use beacons as guides. If somewhere there is not enough solution and depressions have formed, then the material is tossed and leveled again.

Make sure that there are no air pockets left and that the composition fills all the space.

Criterion: if the solution lies tightly and efficiently on the slab, then “cement laitance” will appear on the surface.

After partial hardening, the canvas can be additionally sanded with a grater. With the semi-dry method, the surface is treated when setting becomes apparent.

DIY screed

Professionals give advice to craftsmen who decide to make a floor screed with their own hands:

• When using the wet and semi-dry method, the usual liquid household solutions (soap, degreaser) can be replaced with PVA glue.
• Installation wet methods must be completed in one session. The batch storage time is up to 2 hours.
• The calculation of the drying period depends on the thickness of the layer: 1 week is suggested for 1 cm of height.
• Semi-dry application takes up to 2 weeks to dry (4-5 days is enough for a thin layer), but after 10-12 hours after installation it can be walked on in shoes with flat soles.

When installing a dry floor in an apartment with your own hands, you should remember that the structure is less durable, but can withstand household loads. As a primary backfill, it is wise to purchase expanded clay, perlite, and environmentally friendly compounds with a fine fraction. A practical top covering is gypsum fiber sheets, under which layers of insulation can be laid. You can easily perform such manipulations yourself in 2-3 days.

Do-it-yourself semi-dry floor screed is kneaded hard-boiled: the lump clenched in a fist should not crack or crumble. There is no need to remove the laid beacons from the thickness. With this method, you can save on a self-leveling finishing layer: the floor without it will come out smooth and flawless. This type is considered the most popular among professionals when decorating apartments, since it reduces the hardening time, remains practical, and stable.

A screed is an intermediate layer laid between concrete base and finishing floor covering. The screed determines, in particular, how long the finished floor will last, so it is required without fail, regardless of whether parquet, linoleum, laminate, tiles or any other covering will be laid on top. How to make a floor screed with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

What types of screeds are there?

According to the manufacturing method, screeds are distinguished:

1. Wet. As a rule, this is a cement mortar. On the market you can find special dry compositions based on cement or gypsum. They serve to fill and level the entire base area. If there is cement or sand in the screed, subsequent reinforcement will be required. For dry mixtures, this is not necessary. This is a universal and most common type of screed. A sufficient layer thickness is considered to be no more than 10 cm.
2. Dry. It is also called a prefabricated screed. Produced in the form of large sheets with a thickness of 15-30 mm. If there are big differences level, then it will not be possible to correct the situation. First, the wet floor screed should be poured, and the dry one should be placed on top of it.

Based on the number of layers, there are the following types of screeds:

1. Single layer. It is poured once to the specified thickness.
2. Multilayer. Involves filling the rough and finishing layers. For example, in order to obtain maximum rigidity at the junctions of the slabs with the floor, a rough concrete screed is first poured, and if subsequent finishing is required, an additional layer of smooth finishing screed is poured. As a rule, the rough layer is made at least 20 mm thick, and the finishing layer is 3-20 mm thick.

According to the method of coupling, the screed can be:

1. Solid. Adhesion occurs with the main coating.
2. floating. Clutch is not provided. It is used if it is necessary to lay a layer of moisture-proofing film, as well as heat and sound insulation. The thickness is usually at least 35 mm.

Manufacturing materials

To understand how to make a floor screed, you need to understand the materials used for its manufacture. Most often, the basis of such mixtures is cement and gypsum. To improve the binding properties, sand, polymers and other materials are added to the solution. mineral supplements. The amount of water is added based on the required consistency.

Let's take a closer look at the main materials:

1. Cement. Before you make a floor screed with your own hands from cement mortar, you will need to purchase, of course, cement and sand. As a rule, the mixing proportions are 1:3. The result is a moisture-resistant layer that can be used under any floor covering. You can buy sand concrete in construction stores. However, this material has one drawback - it shrinks quickly. This suggests that it is necessary to control the uniformity and thickness of the protective layer. It often must exceed 30 mm, otherwise the screed will simply crack (read also: " "). In order for the properties of the screed, in particular, the uniformity of stress, due to which it will not crack, to be maintained at the proper level, it must be reinforced from the inside; you can also add a share of propylene fibers (more details: " "). The drying period of the screed is quite long. If laminate or parquet, which are afraid of moisture, is laid on top, then this time can stretch up to 20 days, or even more.
2. Gypsum. A fairly common material, because quickly making a screed in this case is not difficult. This type of screed does not shrink, and the layer can be very thin. In this case, final hardening occurs within 24-48 hours. Gypsum screed is ideal for pouring onto a wooden base, but only if the room does not have high humidity, otherwise the gypsum will soften and look like dough. It is possible to use such a screed in rooms with low humidity, but only if it contains polymer materials.
3. Concrete. Concrete screed in its structure and manufacturing principle is very similar to that of cement. The main difference is that this mixture consists of cellular concrete. Concrete screeds are divided into: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
4. Self-leveling mixture. Distributed as a finished material that can be used for all kinds of floor coverings. A thin layer of such a mixture reaches 2-7 mm, and a thick layer – 5-30 mm. If the height differences at the base are very large, then you will need to first lay a rough screed.
5. Dry screed. This material resembles drywall. It is made in the form of durable building boards with moisture-repellent properties. Installation is carried out on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. During installation, a slight overlap should be provided to overlap the joints. The advantage of such a screed is that you do not need to wait for it to harden. Finished flooring can be laid within 24 hours after installation. This type of screed is popular, mostly in apartments.

List of necessary tools for installation

Before you make a floor screed yourself, you will need to stock up on the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• water level;
• building ordinary level;
• Master OK;
• electric drill, as well as a nozzle for mixing the solution;
• stationery knife;
• bucket;
• pencil or marker;
• ruler and tape measure.

Sequence of work

Stage 1. Level tapping

For those who do not know how to make a floor screed themselves, we note that, as a rule, they begin this process by tapping the level (in more detail: ""). To determine the zero level, a water level is ideal. Marks will need to be made in all rooms at a height of 1.2-1.5 m from the base. The first mark can be placed in any convenient place. The remaining marks are set based on the water level readings along the horizon, while the floor level is not taken into account.

After this, all points are connected, thus determining the zero level. During all construction work, it will need to be oriented as if it were a horizontal plane. Try to check again the accuracy of the zero level determination.

In some cases, expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. This will require making an additional mark a little higher in order to fill it with the selected material, which will act as a pillow.

Stage 2. Determination of height difference

This stage is needed to better understand how to make a cement floor screed in any room, and at the same time correctly calculate the required amount of mortar.

In all rooms, we determine the height from the marked level to the base and make corresponding recordings of measurements at the measuring points. It’s better when there are more such points, then the measurements will be more accurate. At points with the highest indicator there will be the lowest floor level, and vice versa. The difference between these values ​​determines the height difference of the old base.

As an example, consider the following values:

max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

It turns out that the height difference reaches 5 cm.

Cement strainer must have a thickness of more than 30 mm, taking into account the addition of a plasticizer. Otherwise it will crack. A plasticizer can be, for example, liquid soap. Optimal thickness for a self-leveling mixture is determined by the indicators indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.

If you install a multi-level screed, you will need to calculate the difference in heights. Do not leave differences at the joints of coatings. Each level is planned separately, since the thickness of the floor coverings in this case will be different. This difference must be compensated for by different screed thicknesses.

For example, we plan to lay tiles in the kitchen, and parquet in the room. To level the finishing base, you will need to create a thicker screed under the parquet, in several layers (more details: " "). Next, add up the height of all layers, plus parquet, and subtract the sum of the layers along with the tiles. As a result, we get a difference. It is better to add an additional 2 mm in a room with tiles if the layer under the parquet is slightly higher.

Stage 3. Preparing the base

At this stage the base needs to be cleaned, for example using industrial vacuum cleaner. If there is none, then you can limit yourself to simple sweeping, after which everything is thoroughly rinsed with a cleaning agent. For better dust removal, you can use a primer. The ideal option would be to treat the surface using the Betonokontakt product, which will improve the adhesion of the screed to the treated surface.

Partitions and walls will need to be equipped with temporary moisture insulation. Roofing felt will do, top part the strips of which should exceed the level of the screed by 10-15 cm.

After this, you should inspect the floor again. You need to make sure that there are no cracks, otherwise they need to be covered with a non-shrink solution. If the floors have been ironed before or there is a “cement milk” coating, then such a film must be removed to ensure better adhesion to the base.

Stage 4. Installation of beacons

Beacons are installed to achieve a flat screed surface. They are, as a rule, metal profiles fixed to the base. After their installation, a rigid frame is obtained that will not bend until the screed is poured.

The profile can be fixed in a variety of ways, for example, installed on a cement slide or screwed directly to the floor. The gaps between the slats should be such that the rule does not fall between them during the process of leveling the cement mortar.

The alignment of the beacons is carried out using a building level, and do not forget about their parallelism with each other. If the screed is poured at several levels, at the junction of the differences it is necessary to install formwork, for example from plywood, to prevent the solution from flowing to a lower level.

Stage 5. Mixing the solution and then pouring it

It is best to use a concrete mixer to mix the solution. Do not add too much water to the solution, otherwise the screed will not be strong enough. To make the solution plastic, you can add additives to the mixture.

The result should be a homogeneous thick mixture. It is advisable to work it out within 1.5-2 hours. One room should be filled in one go.

The solution is unloaded into the spaces between the beacons, after which it is leveled.

Stage 6. Caring for the screed after pouring

Since we have already determined what a floor screed means for the reliability of laying the finishing coating, we note that during the drying process it needs proper care. That is, after pouring, the screed should be watered twice a day for 10 days.

It is better not to neglect this operation, otherwise it will crack. It often takes 28 days for a cement screed to dry completely. The beacons can be removed within 3 days after pouring, and the voids are filled with a portion of the same solution.

Stage 7. Monitoring the work done

So, we found out what is the best way to make a floor screed, we have completed all the work, all that remains is to check whether everything was done correctly.

At this stage, you need to visually inspect the screed, check its color, evenness and make sure that there are no possible flaws (read: " "). When checking unevenness, the gaps under the 2 meter rail should not exceed 4 mm.

Next, you should check the slope of the base relative to the horizon. It is advisable to tap wooden block. The sound produced should be uniform, ringing and firm. A dull sound indicates the formation of voids under the screed.

Residential and industrial construction in most cases cannot be completed without leveling the base. The screed, which belongs to its structure and serves as the basis for laying the floor covering, allows you to achieve a flat floor surface. When carrying out repair and construction activities, many homeowners are interested in the question of how to make a floor screed with their own hands, and whether it is possible to do the work themselves without inviting specialists.

Types of floor screeds, their features, pros and cons

The screed is part of the base, a layer of rough finishing. It is a construction mixture laid on top of the ceiling between floors, on the ground, and insulation. It serves as the basis for laying flooring, for example, parquet, linoleum, cork. In some cases, the layer itself acts as a finishing coating at industrial facilities, workshops, warehouses, garages, and basements.

The main purpose of the screed is to level the subfloor. If you turn to regulatory documentation, then according to SNiP 2.03.13-88 clause 5.1, this layer should be used to hide pipelines, create the necessary slope, distribute loads across heat and sound insulating layers, and ensure normal heat absorption of the floor.

Taking into account the laying method and the structure of the mixture, several types of screed can be distinguished: wet, dry, semi-dry. In construction, when performing rough finishing, cement-sand mortar is most often used. In residential areas with low humidity, gypsum analogues can be used. To do right choice, find out which type of coating is the best, consider each type in more detail.

Dry

Dry screed allows you to quickly create a level base for the finishing coat. Leveling is carried out by filling in bulk materials, on top of which sheets of chipboard, gypsum fiber board, OSB, and plywood are laid. For backfilling, expanded clay, perlite, vermiculite, and compevit are used. The thickness of the layer depends on several factors, unevenness and differences in the base are taken into account, and the presence of utilities is taken into account. The main advantages of prefabricated flooring include:

• Speed ​​of installation work. The rough finishing can be completed in a few days;
• Simple installation process. You can do it yourself without involving specialists;
• Maintainability of the design. It is possible to correct errors and eliminate inaccuracies;
• Simple laying of communications;
• Good heat and sound insulation properties.

One of the disadvantages of a prefabricated structure is the fear of moisture. When constructing it, special attention must be paid to waterproofing. Under the influence of water, bulk mixtures, like flooring materials, can be deformed. Also, if after flooding you do not dry the floor covering and floor in time, then mold will certainly appear in it over time.

Wet

Wet screed can be done using concrete and cement-sand mixture. The only difference between them is the presence of filler in the form of crushed stone or gravel. To make the composition you will need cement, sand, and water. To increase plasticity, fluidity, strength, and drying speed, special plasticizer additives can be used. The main advantages of using this type of finish include:

• Possibility of laying on all types of floors, including soil;
• High strength;
• Durability;
• Installation of heat and waterproofing;
• Ability to level any uneven surface.

Flaws:

• Long drying time, which depends on the thickness of the layer;
• The reliability of the coating depends on adherence to technology;
• The poured base must be periodically moistened to prevent the formation of cracks.

The poured base is characterized by a large mass, therefore residential buildings It is advisable to abandon such a screed, since it places a significant load on the foundation and floors.

Semi-dry

When leveling floors, a semi-dry screed is often used. Unlike traditional sand-cement or concrete mixtures, it dries quickly; a minimum amount of water, regulated by the recipe, is used for its preparation. Ready composition It is a slightly moistened mixture of sand and cement; it also contains special additives and plasticizers that provide the strength properties of the finishing material after hardening. The main advantages of the coating include:

• Minimum amount of liquid that quickly evaporates;
• Practically does not shrink, cracks do not form during hardening;
• Has increased sound and heat insulation characteristics;
• Fiber or metal reinforcement provides high resistance to mechanical stress;
• You can do the laying and leveling work yourself;
• You can move around the material 10-12 hours after installation;
• Apply the finishing coat as ceramic tiles possible already on day 3, laminate, parquet board- a month later.

Flaws:

• If moisture enters the mixture, it can lead to the resumption of hydration processes;
• Cannot be used in rooms with high humidity;
• Without special devices, it is almost impossible to properly mix the components included;
• A complex, labor-intensive process of laying semi-dry composition over large areas;
• Liquid getting under finishing may lead to the development of microorganisms and mold.

Material for screed reinforcement - which one is better to choose

The screed is a fairly durable coating that ensures floor leveling. However, even if the manufacturing and installation technology is followed, it has a significant drawback, which is expressed in low tensile strength. To increase its load capacity and strength properties, reinforcement is used, which can be done using:

• Laying metal mesh;
• Introduction of fiber fiber into the mixture at the preparation stage;
• Adding polymer and composite elements to the composition.

Reinforcing components located in the body of the screed perform different functions. They protect the surface from the formation of cracks when the solution dries and increase the service life of the rough finish. If the thickness of the cement-sand composition does not exceed 30-40 mm, and the base is strong enough, then reinforcement can be dispensed with. If the layer is more than 50 mm, there is a significant load on the surface, the solution is laid on an unreliable base, then it is better not to neglect this process.

Metal mesh

In the production of metal mesh, VR-1 steel wire with a diameter of 2.5 to 6 mm is used. Used for connecting rods spot welding, they are also twisted with wire, forming square or rectangular cells. The smaller their size, the higher the strength of the reinforcement. Finished products has a variety of dimensions, rolled up or sold in sheets.

The main purpose of the metal mesh is to increase the strength characteristics of the screed, evenly distribute the load throughout its thickness, reduce the risk of cracks and shrinkage, and increase resistance to mechanical stress. Steel rods take on tensile stress, protecting the structure from destruction and increasing its load-bearing capacity.

In order for the mesh to properly perform its function, it must be located in the body of the screed; usually it is installed in the lower third, taking into account the overall thickness. To do this, it is raised above the level of the subfloor, using special plastic stands of appropriate height. The main advantages of steel products include:

• Long service life;
• Low cost;
• Immunity to temperature changes;
• High tensile strength;
• Ability to withstand heavy loads.

Polymer and composite elements

In addition to traditional metal mesh, plastic and fiberglass analogues can also be used for reinforcement. Polypropylene models have good elasticity, they are not afraid of corrosion, and do not collapse under the influence of chemical substances. To the main advantages plastic products can be attributed:

• Light weight;
• Durability;
• Low cost;
• Plastic;
• Ease of working with building materials, possibility of installation in non-standard shaped rooms.

The fiberglass mesh is based on aluminoborosilicate glass. Its rods are impregnated with special solutions that increase the resistance of the material to alkalis. It does not additionally add weight to the structure, so it is often used when creating screeds with light and medium loads in residential premises. The only downside is the fear high temperatures exceeding 200 °C.

You can organize screed reinforcement using composite reinforcement. It consists of non-metallic rods made of glass, basalt, and hydrocarbon fibers. Depending on the material included in the composition, fiberglass (FRP), basalt plastic (ABP), and carbon fiber reinforcement are distinguished. The building material is characterized by high specific strength, corrosion resistance, has low thermal and electrical conductivity. However, the modulus of elasticity is 4 times less than that of steel, it is not ductile, and has low heat resistance.

Fiber reinforcement

Fiber is a high-strength fiber made from synthetic, mineral, metal materials that can significantly increase quality characteristics concrete. Thin fibers can have a length from 1.5 to 45 mm, a diameter of up to 20 microns. The building material is a good alternative to metal, plastic, and fiberglass mesh. Among the main advantages of fiber fiber are:

• The fibers are evenly distributed inside the screed;
• Significant increase in structural strength;
• Reduced shrinkage;
• Increased service life;
• Increasing the plasticity of the finish;
• Reducing the hardening time of the mixture;
• Prevention of cracking and delamination;
• Uniform load distribution.

Depending on the materials used in the production process, there are the following types of fillers:

• Polypropylene fiber. Plastic fiber is characterized by its low weight and is a good heat insulator, so it is often used when installing underfloor heating systems.
• Steel thread. Consists of steel fibers and has good frost resistance. Because of the big specific gravity makes the structure very heavy.
• Basalt. Suitable for arranging coatings that are subject to high dynamic and impact loads.
• Fiberglass. Can be added to gypsum screeds. Significantly increases the plasticity of the composition.
• Asbestos. It is used very rarely, only for outdoor work.

Stages of installing a wet floor screed with your own hands

The classic method involves filling the base with screed mortar and then allowing it to harden. Spread the mixture directly on the floor slab or on thermal and waterproofing. The simplest screed using the wet method is smooth. The process is labor-intensive, but not at all difficult. Having familiarized yourself with the classical technology, it will be much easier to master the remaining techniques.

The strength of the screed depends on the quality of the materials used. It is better to choose a sand-cement composition. In this case, special attention should be paid to sand. The slightest admixture of clay is unacceptable. The finished bulk mixture must be diluted strictly in the proportions indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. IN small rooms when it is necessary to make a thin layer, use self-leveling mixtures based on gypsum or cement. A smooth, dust-free surface is created under the influence of gravitational forces. To make a screed with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

• Power tools with the necessary attachments for mixing the mortar (drill, hammer drill, construction mixer);
• Containers of suitable volume;
• Fiberglass for reinforcement;
• Tripod beacons;
• Spatula, needle roller;
• Special shoes with spikes for moving on an already poured floor;
• Ground concrete contact;
• Damper tape.

Preparing and priming the base

Start off renovation work follows with careful preparation of the base. Cleaning the room involves removing putty residues using a spatula and a hammer. Small debris must be swept away. If you plan to lay a layer of thermal insulation, you can limit yourself to minimal procedures.

For good adhesion of the screed to the base, you will need to treat the surface with a concrete contact or acrylic primer. Any cracks and holes found must be repaired. It is better to make several layers of soil. The absorbency of the floor will decrease as much as possible, which will allow the mixture not to quickly lose moisture and dry gradually and evenly.

The strength of a wet screed depends on the quality of the base preparation. To clean large areas, it is better to use a construction vacuum cleaner.

Floor marking: determining the horizon line and height differences

The screed in a private house or apartment should be done at the same level in all rooms. Exceptions in height may be a bathroom or a balcony. Due to thresholds, these rooms may not be included in the general level. Preliminary measurements will help identify differences in floor level.

You can measure the existing floor level by drawing a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. It is better to make markings at a height of 100 cm from the ceiling. The drawn horizon line must be closed. Displacement up to 2 mm is allowed. Preparatory marking is done in several ways:

1. Using a laser level. The device is mounted on a tripod in the middle of the room. The beam is directed alternately to the walls and corners, and marks are made with a pencil.
2. Using a hydraulic level. The water device consists of two glass flasks with a measuring scale and a long hose. The device is filled with water to the middle of the containers. Only two people can operate it. A mark is made on one wall at a height of 100 cm from the floor and the instrument scale is attached. Another flask is applied to the opposite surface.
3. A long construction spirit level. A rectangular measuring tool is applied to the wall and markings are made. Method for determining the horizon line using simple level suitable for small spaces.

For screeding, use a tape 10-15 cm wide. Only whole material with a good adhesive surface is suitable for work. High quality work will be ensured by Knauf tape. Its installation begins before the pouring process. Damper tape should be used to cover the part of the wall near the floor around the entire perimeter of the room. All projections and columns must also be protected.

Laying any type of material begins from the corner. One end of the roll is leaned against the wall and gradually unwound, separating the required amount of tape. If it is self-adhesive, it is enough to remove the protective layer and press it to the surface. Simple products are secured with self-tapping screws, staplers or adhesives.

The material must be laid continuously. If one roll is not enough, the edges of the strips are overlapped. When the tape reaches the starting point, it is placed on the other end and cut with a stationery knife.

The main purpose of waterproofing is to protect against leaks and improve the quality of the screed. Depending on the method of application, several basic materials can be distinguished. More often in bathrooms they use pasted or guided roll products. In rooms with high humidity, hydrophobic mastics and penetrating waterproofing are additionally used.

Before laying the water-repellent material, chips and cracks are eliminated and potholes are filled. cement mortar. Now the surface is treated with bitumen emulsion and penetrating compounds. Rolled materials are rolled out on the floor with a 15 cm overlap on the walls and each other. After full preparation bowls for screeding, the remaining material is cut off.

If necessary, waterproofing is laid in several layers with offset joints and welded with a construction hairdryer. Areas with waves and air bubbles are punctured and smoothed out again.

Beacons should be placed at the lowest points of the floor, when one is left at the highest. Various devices are used for this. Profiles with mortar or self-tapping screws are suitable for wet screeds. But it is better to give preference to professional designs - benchmarks. Set the screed to the required height using a tripod with a movable rod in the center.

Beacons are placed on an already prepared base, after the soil has completely dried. The benchmark is placed on the floor and the central rod is rotated until the required height is selected according to the prepared markings. After pouring and leveling the mixture, the guide rails are dismantled.

Preparation of solution and pouring

The main components for preparing the mixture are water, sand, cement. The components are mixed in a special concrete mixer or in a bucket with a construction mixer. Recommended proportions are 1 part cement, 1 part water, 4 parts sand. To increase the strength of the solution, plasticizers are added.

Before transferring the solution to the floor, you need to sketch or photograph the passing communications so that if repairs are necessary, you can quickly find them. Filling begins from the opposite corner to the exit from the room. The solution is poured between two beacons and leveled using a rule using zigzag movements. The excess is removed into a bucket, and the mixture is added to the recesses.

The laying process is repeated until the entire floor is filled. To avoid cracks and joints during drying, the pouring process is performed in one room in one day. You will be able to walk on the floor in 2 days.

How to care during the maturation period of the screed

After pouring the floor, it is necessary to remove the beacons and repair the resulting cracks. In this state, the screed must go through the maturation stage. The duration of the process will depend on the room temperature, air humidity, and the thickness of the screed layer. On average it will take at least 4 weeks.

To increase the quality of the coating, it is covered with plastic film and periodically moistened to prevent cracking. It is necessary to exclude drafts, which can lead to rapid drying. After a few days, you can walk on the screed and make sure it is even. To make the concrete surface smoother, an ironing procedure is carried out. Pure cement is scattered over the concrete and smoothed over with a metal trowel.

Stages of installation of dry floor screed

This screed option is more suitable for apartments, since it does not put excessive pressure on the floors. The dry backfill method will provide smooth subfloors, on which any material can be laid in the future. finishing material. Like the installation of a wet screed, laying a dry base takes place in several stages.

Required tools and materials

All basic and Consumables should be purchased with a reserve. Excess may be needed if some of the products are damaged during operation; if necessary, use smaller pieces. The required amount of bulk mixtures is calculated taking into account the evenness of the floors and the thickness of the future screed. The average consumption of expanded clay mixture is 10 liters per 1 m2, the fraction size is 2 mm, the layer height is 4-12 cm. If necessary, use logs - beams 10 x 10 cm. Installation work dry screeds are carried out using the following tools:

• Laser, water, construction level;
• GVL sheets;
• Hacksaws for cutting slabs and sheets;
• Screwdriver, self-tapping screws;
• Accessories for marking;
• Tape measures, scissors.

Preparatory work

Dry screed can only be laid on a prepared base. Work begins with a thorough inspection of the surface and identification of problem areas. The condition of the concrete base does not have to be perfect, but without significant defects. Mandatory actions to prepare the foundation include the following:

1. Primer. The finished composition is thoroughly mixed and applied to the floor using a brush and roller. After 4 hours, you can begin the following preparatory procedures;
2. Gluing damper tape. The material is fixed against the wall to the height of the future screed. In this case, the thickness of the gypsum fiber board should be taken into account;
3. Floor markings. Using a level, the base is marked and marks are applied to the wall along the entire perimeter;
4. Laying of insulating material. More often, simple polyethylene film is used. A single piece is straightened over the entire area, extending onto the walls by at least 20 cm;
5. Installation of beacons. For dry screeds, beacons can be of any shape. The top edge of the profiles must be smooth and suitable for alignment as a rule, since they will be removed and rearranged. The frequency of laying beacons is selected individually.

After completing the rough work, you can backfill the screed. The pre-calculated volume of filler is poured onto the floor and leveled, resting on the beacons. Then GVL sheets are laid. It is easier to work on a large area in stages, partially pour out the mixture and cover it.

As beacons, you can use a regular drywall profile. Two elements are placed on the backfill and leveled. When one section becomes level, the beacons are removed and rearranged. The dry mixture is poured in excess and, if necessary, compacted with a plaster float.

GVL sheets are laid on the filler in any shape. But it will be easier to start installation from the opposite wall front door. Sheets that are laid close to the wall must be prepared in advance - cut off the fold. To tightly connect them together, adhesive mixtures and screws are used. At the final stage, the edge tape and polyethylene are trimmed.

The slabs can be laid in one or two layers. The choice of method will be influenced by the main characteristics of the material and their thickness. After laying the flooring, all that remains is to seal the joints, seams and areas with fasteners with putty. All treated areas must be sanded, and the finished surface must be treated with insulating compounds.

Stages of installation of semi-dry floor screed

The pouring method is similar to wet screed, but the mixture contains significantly less water, which leads to accelerated hardening. IN industrial premises, in new buildings such floors are simply sanded before use. You can lay a semi-dry budget screed in several ways - on the base, with sound insulation, insulation, or the floating method.

Required tools and materials

The main components for preparing semi-dry screed are water, sand, cement. If desired, fiber can be added to the composition. To carry out floor pouring work, you will need the following tools:

• Thermal cutting;
• Beacons;
• Concrete mixer;
• Putty knife;
• Rule;
• Building level;
• Sleeves for applying the solution, pneumatic blower;
• Wooden, polyurethane grater.

Preparing the base

The preparatory stage of foundation includes a whole range of activities. All mandatory actions have a significant impact on the quality of installation. First, clean the surface of the old coating, remove dust and dirt. Then you need to calculate the horizon level in order to correctly determine the amount of mixture required for work.

At the next stage, waterproofing and thermal insulation are laid. A simple film will provide good protection from moisture. It's better if it's a single piece. Individual strips will have to be laid with a large approach to the edges.

Beacons are used to level surfaces. The rule will be based on special slats during the leveling process. They are distributed parallel to one of the walls at an arbitrary distance from each other. After filling, it is enough to compact the solution between the beacons with your feet.

The standard proportion for preparing a solution for semi-dry screed is 1 part cement, 4 parts sand. Plasticizers add 1 liter per 100 kg of cement, reinforcing substances - 0.6 kg per 1 m3 of solution. All components are poured into a concrete mixer and mixed well with the addition of water. To check the quality of the solution, place a small amount of the mixture in your hand and squeeze. The composition is ready for use if no moisture is released.

All pouring operations must be planned in advance, since after an hour the solution will begin to lose its properties necessary for leveling the surface. Fiber fiber should be added to the mixture along with the liquid. This way the material will be better distributed. For each 10-liter bucket, 80 g of polypropylene fiber will be enough.

Backfill

After carrying out the preparatory work and installing the beacons, you can proceed to filling the mixture. Some of the material is scattered with a shovel and quickly compacted below the level of the control beacon. The remains of the semi-dry mixture above the lighthouse are laid on the trampled surface. After which they simultaneously compact and level. The work should be carried out by at least two people to ensure a continuous supply of the mixture.

The formed screed must be leveled immediately. The need and duration of grinding will depend on the quality of the leveling. If voids are found, they are filled with the mixture and leveled with a trowel.

Drying and finishing

After leveling the mixture, allow it to rest for 20 minutes and begin grouting. The material does not shrink, so this will be enough time for hardening. The procedure must be carried out until the solution has completely set. For the most effective grouting, a special installation is used. To prevent breaks and cracks, cut special shrink joints, cover the entire surface of the semi-dry screed with polyethylene and leave for 24 hours.

After drying, special expansion joints are cut in rooms larger than 15 m2. Areas near columns and in doorways should be subjected to special treatment. The final treatment of the floor can be done within 24 hours. The exact time depends on the type and characteristics of the floor coverings. Moisture-resistant tiles and porcelain tiles are laid the next day, linoleum is laid after 1 week, parquet and laminate can be installed after 1 month.

Conclusion

Floor screed can be easily done with your own hands. Special equipment will greatly facilitate the process and reduce installation time. To get a decent result, you must strictly observe the proportions when mixing the solution and follow installation technologies.