On the territory of which modern states are the Andes located? The highest mountain lake on the planet

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Vegetable and animal world The Andes are as variable and varied as the topography and climate of this huge mountain system. The cocoa tree and Antarctic beech grow here, and among the animals you can find a monkey and a Chilean deer.
In the equatorial region of the Andes (between 2° S and 5° N), where the climate is constantly hot and humid, red soils are formed and vegetation develops especially lushly. Here, the lower parts of the mountain slopes are occupied by humid equatorial forest. In this forest, as A. Wallace describes, “the first thing that catches your eye is the varied, but generally symmetrical tree trunks, which, without branching, reach a very significant height. Standing quite far from each other, they give the impression of some kind of columns supporting a gigantic building.
At the top, maybe 150 feet high, the foliage and intertwining branches of these huge trees form an almost continuous green canopy, usually so dense that the sky appears below as some kind of vague radiance; even the dazzling light of the tropical sun reaches the ground significantly weakened, in the form of unclear glare. A kind of magical twilight reigns, a mysterious silence, and all this together gives the impression of something great, primeval, even boundless.”
The trunks of trees in the forest are covered for the most part with smooth bark, colored whitish, green, yellowish, brown, sometimes almost black. Along with smooth trunks, there are trunks that are heavily fissured and wrinkled; some have peeling bark, hanging down in long ribbons. Under the canopy tall trees There are several tiers of lower trees. In the forest there are plants such as the cocoa tree with flowers located directly on the trunk and large branches, and various palm trees. The coconut palm is especially valuable: its unripe nuts produce a very pleasant-tasting juice (coconut milk), coconut oil is obtained from the pulp of ripe nuts, and their shells are used for various small crafts, as they are very durable. Tree ferns, various vines, and beautiful orchids grow in abundance in the forest. Orchids climb up trunks and branches, develop luxuriantly on fallen trunks, and cover rocks and cliffs from top to bottom. Along the banks of rivers you can often see groves of graceful bamboos with their swaying foliage and straight, shiny trunks.
Rubber plants - hevea and castilla - are scattered throughout the forest among palms and other trees. Hevea is a large tree with a lush deciduous crown. When you cut the bark of a tree, sap flows out. If you hold this juice over the smoke of a fire, it coagulates into a dense elastic mass. Brown. This is rubber, which Europeans first became acquainted with when they saw balls (balls) bouncing when hit by Indian children.
There are no huge herds of mammals, no large flocks of birds, the animals are separated by dense trees, hide in their foliage and betray their presence only with rare and sharp sounds.
A. Wallace describes his impressions of the animals of the tropical forest: “The rare cries of birds are melancholic, mysterious in nature and rather increase the feeling of loneliness than bring revival. A sudden cry in the midst of silence puzzles you: it is the cry of some defenseless fruit-eating animal captured by a tiger cat or a boa constrictor. In the morning and evening, howler monkeys raise a terrifying, heartbreaking roar, amid which it is difficult to maintain complete mental concentration.”
Among the insects in this forest, the most common are large, graceful in shape and richly colored butterflies and large ants. If butterflies amaze the observer with their beauty and variety of shapes and colors, then ants usually annoy them with their intrusiveness. They live everywhere - on trees, in the soil; Being very voracious, ants feed on plants and various insects.
Many birds nest in the dense foliage of the trees. First of all, parrots are striking in their numbers and variegated colors. Most parrots have green color, but often it turns into blue or dark blue, as in some macaws, or yellow and dark orange, as in some American wedge-tailed parrots, or bright carmine, as in some lorises. Toucans also stand out - large birds with huge, beautifully colored beaks and delicate chest plumage.
Small birds - hummingbirds - are numerous and varied in the forest. Hummingbirds are very small; the largest are no larger than a swallow, the smallest are no larger than a bumblebee. They have short legs and small paws, very long sharp wings, a long thin beak and a tube-like tongue protruding far. Their main color is green tone goes well with blue, purple and various red tones. We can say that the plumage of a hummingbird represents the colors of all precious stones and metals. There are always feather decorations on the head, back of the head, chest and tail - brightly colored and contrasting with the rest of the plumage. They feed on flower nectar. Quickly rushing in the air, the bird only hangs for a moment in front of the flower, tastes it and rushes with lightning speed to another branch. The weight of a bird can be less than two grams, which is the weight of a bronze coin of 2 kopecks, and tiny testicles, the size of a pea, sometimes weigh only 0.2 grams. Interestingly, hummingbird chicks hatch from eggs blind, and only then regain their sight.
In the equatorial Andes, some hummingbird species live even near the snow line.
Of the reptiles in the humid equatorial forest of the Andes, there are large iguana lizards that live in trees and feed on plants. These green lizards have a crest on their back and a very long tail. Among mammals, prehensile-tailed monkeys are especially typical - howler monkeys, spider monkeys, marmoset monkeys - small, squirrel-like animals with tufts of hair on their heads.
The moist equatorial forest rises along the western and eastern slopes to a height of 800-1000 m. The higher slopes are covered with mountain forest. The air here is constantly humid, rain, fog, and dampness are common occurrences. In this forest, which covers the mountains up to an altitude of 2500-2800 m, tree ferns, bamboo, and cinchona grow. Cinchona trees grow sparsely, without forming dense thickets. The trees are intertwined with vines and densely covered with various climbing plants, among which there are especially many bromeliads.
The higher you go in the mountains, the cooler the climate. The character of the forest also changes noticeably. Tree ferns disappear, bamboo becomes lower and smaller, long and thick vines that wrap around trees to the tops are replaced by thinner ones that climb low or even creep along the ground, the deciduous forest becomes lower and thinner, a dense undergrowth of bushes and grasses appears in it. at an altitude of 3000-3800 m the forest disappears.
Above the forest line in the equatorial Andes lies the páramo belt. This belt occupies the upper sections of the slopes of the equatorial Andes, rising to eternal snow and ice. Characteristic feature The climate of the páramo is not the expression of the seasons of the year. average temperature all year round stays within 8-10°. But during the day you can experience both the heat of the sun and the chill from the cold wind; get wet in the rain and dry again under the bright sun. The morning is usually clear and calm at first, but then from about 10 o’clock a strong wind rises, and around noon “the paramo closes,” as the locals say, that is, everything is covered in a thick blanket of fog, which dissipates only in the evening or at night. There are often heavy rains, accompanied by snow or snow pellets; Sometimes drizzling rains continue for several hours, penetrating everything around with cold and dampness.
The vegetation of this belt is dominated by grasses, the cover of which gives the area a brownish-yellow hue. Against the flat background of the grassy cereal steppe, tall asteraceous plants - espeletia - stand out in individual specimens or groups. They rise up to 3-5 m in the form of columns, densely covered with woolly felt and ending at the top with a fan-shaped bunch of hard, fleshy leaves.
To the north and south of the equatorial Andes, the nature of the vegetation changes noticeably. North of 5° N. w. along the low coast Pacific Ocean, along the valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers and along the lower parts of the mountain slopes, instead of the evergreen equatorial forest, a summer-green monsoon forest appears. During the dry season, most of the trees in this forest shed their leaves and only plants such as cacti, agaves, and collection remain green. This forest contains many valuable tree species with very durable wood. Scattered among these trees are groups of palm trees, distinguished by their delicate feathery crown. The trees are intertwined with vines, among which vanilla is found.
The forest growing along the slopes of the Western, Central and Eastern Cordillera, separated by the valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca rivers, is characterized by cinchona, but tree ferns and palms are rare there. But thickets of mimosas, agaves with fleshy foliage covered with needles, prickly prickly pears and squat cacti with sharp spines and large pink flowers are common. Sometimes on the marshy areas of the slopes there are dense thickets of huge bamboo, in which the damp soil is completely covered with floating bamboo 30 cm high.
This mountain forest, gradually thinning out, transforms with height into bush thickets and into the páramo belt, which is now broken into separate sections.
North of 10° N. w. The Andes enter the savannah zone - tropical forest-steppe, where the main background is made up of tall grasses and shrubs. Thanks to the clearly expressed dry winter period Here only sparse vegetation can grow, consisting of drought-resistant hard-leaved shrubs, cacti and a small number of low-growing tree species. Thickets of bushes and thorny, twisted trees are known in Venezuela as chaparral. Areas overgrown with mimosas and cacti are called espinar. Savannah is also characteristic of the surroundings of the Gulf of Guayaquil.
The middle part of the Andes, located in the tropical zone, is characterized by a great diversity of vegetation cover, where you can find desert (on the western slopes), and dry mountain steppe, and semi-desert (on the intermountain plateaus), and tropical forest (on the eastern slopes).
The western slopes of the Andes in this part are deserted. In Peru, tall candelabra-shaped cacti, leaf-shaped prickly pears and other plants grow on the western slopes. There are also thorny bushes and subshrubs. In Chile, along with cacti, cactus-like conifers, one type of feather grass, and adesmia bushes with dry, resinous branches grow. Climbing up the western slopes, you can see how the bushes and rare feather grass grass gradually disappear and only cacti remain, as if scattered over huge landslides of gray-brown rocks.
Above 3000 m, the upland dry steppe begins - puna, widespread on the internal plateaus of the tropical Andes.
In Pune, summers are quite humid and winters are cold and dry. During the day in summer time It can be very hot, but at night it is usually cold (due to the large radiation of heat) and the coastal areas of the lakes are covered with thin ice.
The humid summer brings to life many plants that bloom and bear fruit. Cushion-shaped shrubs and subshrubs predominate, clinging tightly to the ground and adapted to sharp temperature fluctuations, strong winds, and dry climate. Many evergreen dwarf shrubs with small leaves. Among herbaceous plants cereals dominate: feather grass, fescue, reed grass. In winter, plant growth stops, although many remain green. This time is characterized by significant severity: temperatures can drop to -16°, the air is very dry, cold winds often blow, causing dust and sand storms.
On the western edge of the intermountain plateaus between 16 and 30° S. w. pune becomes tolu. The local population calls Tola a dwarf evergreen shrub, pressed tightly to the ground and looking like lichens from a distance. Tola differs from Pune by being more dry and deserted.
The fauna of the intermontane plateaus is dominated by rodents and ungulates. Rodents receive water along with the plants they eat. Ungulates run long distances in search of water. Of the rodents, the mountain viscacha and chinchilla are remarkable, distinguished by their fluffy silvery fur; There are mice and shrews. Foxes live in the desert mountains, hunting rodents. You can often see slender representatives of the llama ungulates: vicuñas and guanacos.
Feathered predators soar over the mountain slopes: condors, kites, falcons. Hummingbirds fly here less often. Among the sandy areas and rocky areas, lizards can often be found, but there are no snakes.
The eastern slopes of the Andes in the tropical zones, characterized by a more humid climate, are covered with forest vegetation. In the northern half of the eastern slopes between 5 and 20° S. w. widespread mountain forest consisting of cinchona tree, numerous lianas and other climbing plants(epiphytes). Unlike the montane forest of the equatorial zone, this tropical montane forest is not so dense and wet, especially in dry weather. winter time when some trees shed their leaves.
South of 20° S. w. cinchona, tree ferns and bamboos are being replaced by others deciduous trees, among which alder is the most common. Most trees lose their leaves in the dry winter, and only the evergreen myrtles enliven the overall tone of the forest with their small, shiny foliage. The trunks and branches of trees here are also entwined with vines and epiphytes, and there are many herbaceous ferns in the undergrowth.
Subtropical Andes, located between 30 and 40° S. sh., are noticeably different in the nature of vegetation from the tropical area. On the coast, the slopes of the Coastal Mountains on the western slopes of the Andes, evergreen trees and shrubs of the Mediterranean type are common up to an altitude of 1500 m. Shrubs and low-growing, gnarled trees predominate. Closer to the coast, remnants of forest vegetation are still preserved: teak forests with epiphytes, ferns and mosses.
But in large areas these forests have not survived, and now instead of them there are green gardens in which lemons, oranges, quinces, figs, peaches, apples, pears, cherries, and plums grow.
Further from the coast and along the western slopes of the Andes, thickets of evergreen shrubs are visible, among which there are cacti, as well as herbaceous bulbous plants - lilies, irises, amaryllis.
On the eastern slopes of the subtropical Andes, the vegetation is more dry-loving in nature, since the climate there is much drier than on the western slopes. Up to an altitude of 1500 m and even higher, shrubs and subshrubs dominate, usually having a spherical shape. Among the tough, half-meter-tall bushes of barberry and other shrubs, there are cacti; you can often see bare soil with salt stains on the surface.
Above 1500 m along the western and eastern slopes there is a belt of mountain forest, which continues south of 40° S. w. within the temperate zone. On the western slopes this forest is more diverse and richer than on the eastern.
The most common types of southern beech in the forest are low-growing in the upper part of the slopes, tall in the lower part. Along with beech forests, there are areas of coniferous forests: araucaria forests with straight trunks and umbrella-shaped crowns resemble pine forests. There are also coniferous forests of firtsroi - evergreen trees up to 40-55 meters high. In the lower part of the western slopes you can find evergreen beeches and sphagnum bogs, which are also widespread in the vicinity of lakes wedged between volcanoes.
The famous botanist I.M. Albov, who worked in the southern Andes and Tierra del Fuego, describes these swamps this way: “When you encounter such a lawn, covered with a green carpet, you carefully walk around it, because the moss treacherously covers the soil saturated with moisture, a terrible swamp where you will drown before belts."
On the eastern slopes, the mountain forest belt consists almost entirely of southern beech and only in its lower part is coniferous - esedro - found.
Above 2000 and 2200 m, the upper parts of the slopes of the subtropical Andes are occupied by a belt of alpine meadows, which continues south into the temperate zone. This belt is not continuous and is often interrupted by rocks, glaciers, and deep gorge valleys. Highland (alpine) plants grow in the meadows, low, tightly pressed to the ground, but with bright flowers. These are red geranium, yellow buttercup, white saxifrage, blue-yellow primrose, valerian, etc. In swampy areas, plants form dense, moist cushions; on rocky screes, shrubs and subshrubs (barberry, currant, etc.) appear instead of herbs.
The southern edge of the Andes is included in the temperate zone (south of 40° S). Here, in a cooler and wetter climate, other species of plants and animals appear. Along the Pacific coast and on the western slope of the Andes, moist soils enriched with humus are brown and brown in color, in places they become grayish due to the leaching of humus and salts into the depths of the soil layer (podzolic soils).
In the forests they strangely combine heat-loving plants with cold-resistant. Evergreen magnolias and myrtles grow. Dense thickets are formed by low bamboo; at the foot of the trees fuchsias, ferns, and barberries grow luxuriantly. Here and there, from under the thicket of dark green shiny leaves, dense clusters of small berries or small bright buds of flowers turn red. Under the bushes lies a carpet of beautiful grasses with yellow, blue and pink flowers. Of the conifers, slender araucarias, similar to pines with an umbrella-shaped crown, are typical; esedro, alerce, etc. are also found. These ancient conifers are combined on the mountain slopes with lushly growing beech forests.
In the picturesque beech forests, in addition to the evergreen beech, there is also a beech with falling leaves, which in the fall colors the forest with all shades - from red to pale yellow. Beech forests provide wonderful construction material. They constitute one of the main natural resources southern Andes. Forests rise along the western slopes up to 1200 m (at 40° S) and up to 400-500 m on Tierra del Fuego. The upper border of the forest is formed by thickets of southern beech bushes. Higher up, the belt of alpine meadows immediately begins.
The eastern slopes of the Andes in the temperate zone in the lower part are covered with low-growing forests and cereal-shrub vegetation. On Tierra del Fuego, subantarctic forests of evergreen and deciduous beech, alternating with peat, grow up to an altitude of 300-500 m. Higher up the slopes, the forest gives way to an alpine meadow, some sections of which alternate with rocks, snow fields and glaciers.
In the forests of the Southern Andes you can find Chilean deer, which are hunted by pumas and wild cats. Sometimes the fluffy tail of a fox flashes between the trees or a skunk (American stinkhorn) runs quickly, defending itself from pursuit with a stream of sharp-smelling liquid. Otters, beavers, and viscachas live along the river valleys. Condors and kites soar high in the sky above the mountain slopes. In the forest, among the dense foliage, the squeaking and whistling of finches, thrushes, starlings, owls, and falcons does not cease, and then suddenly a hummingbird flashes with a bright spark in the dark green thicket or the sharp cry of a parrot is heard.
The flora and fauna of the Andes are remarkable not only for their diversity, but also for the fact that they have given the world many cultivated species that have successfully spread to other continents.
The most important local cultivated plant The Chilean Andes is a potato that Charles Darwin found growing wild on the sandy coast in the Chonos archipelago. The Chonos Archipelago, as well as Fr. Chiloe and other islands of the southwestern coast of South America are a remnant of the southern Andes, separated from the mainland by sea straits.
In the middle part of the Andes, namely on the plateaus of Peru and Bolivia, plants such as millet, quinoa, beans, and tomatoes are native, and in the forests of the lower mountain slopes, pineapple and cherimoya are native plants, characterized by a pleasant taste and a refreshing effect on the body. The name tomato comes from the ancient Incan word “tomatl”. Tomatoes exported to Europe from Peru were not eaten for a long time. These golden yellow, orange or bright red fruits were displayed among flowers in flower beds or in pots on windows among other indoor plants. In Europe they received a different name - golden apple (pomo doro - in Italian), and now we call them tomatoes.
In the northern part of the Andes, in the mountain forests of the eastern slopes, the cinchona tree grows, the bark of which contains quinine - a good remedy against malaria. This evergreen tree, 3 to 20 m high, has straight branches, small dark green leaves with red veins and panicle-shaped flowers of pale red color. In the mountain forests of the Andes, the coca bush grows, delivering the medicinal drug cocaine. This tall bush (as tall as a person) with light green tender leaves is also covered with buds, flowers, semi-ripe brown and ripe red fruits. In the humid tropical forest on the slopes of the Colombian Andes, a cocoa tree grows, 5-6 m and even 13 m high, with a lush dark green crown. Flowers and fruits are located directly on the trunk and branches of the tree; its fruit looks like a pod 10-16 cm in size, yellowish or reddish in color and contains beans arranged in five longitudinal rows.
In the Andes, llamas and alpacas were first domesticated by the Incas and are now used for transporting goods and for shearing wool. Llama is a camel-like animal with a long neck. It loves the sandy areas of the puna and páramo and has long been used as a beast of burden. The llama can carry a load of up to 60 kg. The alpaca, which is very similar to the llama, is valued for its fine wool and is not used as a beast of burden.
Close to these animals are also the vicuna and guanaco, which are completely untamed. Vicuna is an elegant, agile, timid animal with very fine brown wool, which is used to make the most expensive woolen fabrics. The very fast and unpretentious guanaco is found mainly in the southern part of the Andes and, like the vicuña, is hunted by the Indians.
Of the small animals, the chinchilla is very valued - a rodent that lives at high altitudes from 2000 to 3500 m. The ninchilla is valued because of its beautiful fluffy bluish-silver fur and is now almost exterminated due to predatory hunting.
In the Andes, three largest areas can be distinguished, forming separate landscape areas. A landscape area is a natural area in which the connection between relief, climate, rivers, soil and vegetation cover and fauna appears especially clearly and forms a unique whole. These are the Southern Andes, Middle Andes and Northern Andes.

Northern Andes

In the north, the Andes rise above the tropical rainforests of Venezuela, Colombia and Ecuador; their character is difficult: the height of 4500-6000 meters and changeable weather require special skills from tourists. But you can choose a simpler option: rent a car and drive around the foothills of volcanoes and lakes, or take a ride on the longest cable car in the world (almost 2 kilometers) Teleferico de Merida in Venezuela.

Central Andes

In Peru and Bolivia, the Andes contain in their depths vast and fertile plateaus on which the Incas once built cities. But for me, the main treasures of these places are the high-mountain lakes, deep like Titicaca and turned into salt marshes like. You can spend a stunning few days exploring the customs of the people of Taquile Island on Titicaca, where men knit from colored wool. Or spending the night on the reed-woven islands of Uros under the huge and bright stars at an altitude of 3800 meters. Or sweeping with the breeze across a huge pit of salt. Or coming up with the most incredible compositions for photography in a place where there is no perspective. And, of course, enjoying the most memorable sunsets of your life.

Southern Andes, Carretera Austral

The long and narrow strip of land called Chile and the endless Argentine pampas stretch along the Andean ridges, to the tops of which clouds cling. And they cling in the literal sense: rain clouds driven by Pacific winds cannot overcome the mountain barrier and shed precious moisture on the southern Chilean side (northern Chile, with the world's driest Atacama Desert, is not so lucky). The famous road built in the mid-1970s under Pinochet, the Carretera Austral, or “southern road,” winds here. This is one of the most picturesque and interesting routes I have ever traveled; it provides an opportunity to fully enjoy the beauty of mountain peaks, wild rivers, azure lakes and proud pine trees over 1,240 kilometers.

It is better to travel in the summer months (December to February), since at other times of the year the ferry crossings do not operate and you will not be able to enjoy all the delights of the trip. Therefore, feel free to plan a big vacation for the January holidays and then, in addition to the famous South Road, you will be able to see the huge Perito Moreno glacier, breathe in the famous Patagonian winds and find out why Tierra del Fuego is called so. By the way, the Northern and Central Andes are friendly to travelers all year round.

Where to start

The starting point of Carretera Austral is the Chilean city of Puerto Montt. This is a nice small settlement, imbued with a European spirit, from where tourists, after admiring the ancient Cathedral made of mahogany, go to the Lake District, to the Villarrica volcano or to the island of Chiloe. Here you have to decide how you will conquer the Southern Road: the bravest ones hitchhike or ride bicycles, while the rest rent a car.

From Chiloe Island you can take a ferry to the town of Chaiten and head either north or south.

Another option is to start in the south, from the village of Villa O'Higgins, which can be reached by ferry from Argentina, which runs several times a week from November to March and takes only pedestrians or cyclists on board (costs about $60, or 40,000 pesos) , or by entrusting yourself to the care of a travel company that will not only organize transportation to the ferry by bus, but will also offer to explore the glaciers on the lake “on the way” (the tour will cost from $130).

What to take with you

Regardless of which method of travel you choose, you need to have a supply of provisions with you; you will find supermarkets only in relatively large settlements; in other settlements there are only village shops with a minimum set of products.
Don't forget a set of medications and essential supplies you need (from bandages to toothpaste and repellents). Carretera Austral is not a place where you can take just a passport and a credit card.
Comfortable clothing and shoes are a must as there are so many stunning, inviting places to explore!
There is enough cash in local currency (Chilean pesos), you won't find ATMs until Coyahique, and cards are not accepted anywhere.

If you choose to travel on foot or by bike

Since the distances between populated areas and campsites are large, you will need:

tent,
sleeping bag (in the mountains, even in summer the nights are cold),
gas-burner,
pot and dishes,
and other camping equipment.

You can rent everything you need, including a bicycle, in Puerto Montt (the choice is very limited and the prices are very high) or in Santiago, where there are a huge number of rentals with good bicycles. To do this you will need to present your passport and bank card to retain the deposit (depending on the rental period from $250). Rental prices start from $30 per day or $120 per week.

If you decide to travel by car

You can rent a car in Puerto Montt or, as I did, in Santiago (in this case, you will need to set aside a few days to drive almost 1000 kilometers along the magnificent highway, stopping at wineries and visiting national parks).

Prepare, in addition to your usual license, an international license (some rental agencies will not issue a car without them) and, of course, a bank card with a sufficient amount in the account to block the deposit.
Explore the websites of rental companies to choose the most suitable option. Under no circumstances should you look at small cars, only four-wheel drive! If possible, refuse the options of cars that look like they just came out of the showroom; choose a car that has undergone a baptism of fire, because small stones will inevitably fly on gravel roads.
To the south of Carretera Austral the Andes are filled with many magnificent landscapes, such as the famous Fitzroy Peak and the beauty of the Torres del Paine National Park. But, since some areas of the country are occupied by impassable mountains, part of the journey will have to be done through the territory of Argentina. To do this, you will need special documents for the car. Be sure to contact the rental agency in advance - documents for crossing the border take several days to prepare. And be prepared for the fact that you will be charged a fee of $200 for registration.
You will rarely see gas stations along the way, so take advantage of every opportunity to replenish your gasoline supplies.

So, you've saddled up a four-wheeled beast (I, for example, got a red pickup truck, on the hood of which someone was playing tic-tac-toe with a nail) and are ready for adventure.

By sea

At the very beginning of the journey, three ferries will be waiting for you, which will circle the inaccessible mountain slopes covered with dense forest by the sea (see map below). The first ferry leaves from La Arena every hour and costs about $15 (10,000 pesos) per car. In half an hour you will reach the peninsula, which can only be reached by sea. The second ferry departs from the village of Ornopien (which has several shops and overnight stops), located at the southern end of the peninsula, twice a day - in the morning and in the afternoon. It is better to check the schedule in Puerto Montt. This ferry takes 5 hours, the ticket costs $54 (35,000 pesos), and this price includes the third ferry, which departs when all passengers on the second ferry have safely covered 10 kilometers of gravel road.

By land

As a result of all the sea voyages, during which majestic mountains, forests and waterfalls will float past, you will find yourself in the village of Caleto Gonzalo. From here, boldly head south, stopping at picturesque places and climbing deep into the mountains. You will travel at an average speed of 50 km/h, so you will not miss signs for recommended hiking trails to particularly beautiful and amazing natural treasures and numerous national parks.

Carretera Austral ends in a dead end in the village of Villa O'Higgins, from where you can cross to Argentina (only those traveling on foot or by bicycle are taken on the ferry), or return back if you are traveling by car.

Where to go

Along the entire Southern Road you will find several opportunities to cross the border with Argentina: near the village of Santa Lucia, near Lago las Torres park, the town of Coyaqui and before reaching Cochrane. I would highly recommend the latter option, as not only will you be able to see almost all of Carretera Austral, but you will also drive past a magnificent lake called Lago General Carrera in the Chilean part and Lago Buenos Aires in the Argentine part.

Tourist infrastructure

You can spend the night in campsites that are scattered throughout Carretera Austral, or in populated areas. Almost all locals rent rooms from $10 to $55 (8,000-35,000 pesos) per night for two and will be happy to feed you breakfast (not always for an additional fee). Free campsites are simply cleared sites. Those equipped with a toilet, hot shower and awnings will cost from $5 to $10 per night.

For example, on January 2, I stopped in the picturesque village of Via Cerro Castillo, where in the evening the entire large family of the hosts gathered for dinner. Despite my limited knowledge of Spanish, I was invited to share a meal with everyone and enjoy a wonderful evening. The men prepared a traditional dish - roasting a young lamb on a cross - a la cruz, and the women cut fresh vegetables and herbs. It was the most delicious lamb I've ever tasted in my life. And the glare of the fire on their open and friendly faces, songs accompanied by an accordion and majestic mountains under the shadow of the starry sky are forever etched in my memory.

Catering establishments are found only in the largest settlements: Ornopirene, Koyaki, Cochrane. In other places, the best you can hope for are small grocery stores. I usually tried to have a hearty breakfast and dinner where I spent the night (if the hosts didn’t cook, I asked permission to use the kitchen), and during the day, pre-prepared sandwiches helped me out.

Southern Andes, Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego

On the western edge of the Patagonian steppes rise the Southern Andes. They are no longer as high as in the north, but no less beautiful. Along the entire foothills of the mountains lie delightful natural reserves, the main pearls of which are the giant Perito Moreno glacier, one of only two on planet Earth that is not decreasing, but growing, and Torres del Paine Park, the harsh beauty of which attracts travelers from all over the world. What wonders Patagonia has in store and how to get to them is well written.

And further south, the red grass of Tierra del Fuego rustles in the wind, where, according to legend, giants lived, and the Andes descend their peak-studded tail into the ocean, from which glaciers slide down like caps. Here, as the last stronghold of the mountains, Cape Horn rises from the water, and landing on it is a matter of luck. Few ships and fierce cold currents travel between this outpost with a lonely lighthouse and Argentina.

The Andes are multifaceted and unpredictable, they fascinate and make you fall in love; once you see them, you will come back again and again. After all, the only thing better than the mountains is the Andes!

In the west of South America, along the Pacific coast, a long mountain system, the Andes, stretches for 9 thousand km. Almost along their entire length they consist of a system of parallel ridges and intermountain basins. The mountains have gone through a long geological path of development, and in accordance with the differences in development and structure in the Andes, the following zones can be distinguished:

The Eastern Andes are ridges that arose in the Cenozoic era due to blocky uplifts of Paleozoic folded structures that formed earlier. Between the Western and Eastern Cordilleras there are highlands that have not experienced significant changes in the process of Alpine mountain building. The steep slopes of the Andes mountains were created due to faults in the earth's crust. The Andes are confined to the boundaries of lithospheric plates, so earthquakes and volcanic eruptions occur here - Llullaillaco, San Pedro, Cotopaxi. This indicates that the Andes are young mountains and their growth continues. A catastrophic earthquake occurred in the Andes in 1960 (Chile). Tremors of enormous force continued for seven days. During this time, 35 cities were destroyed, hundreds settlements wiped off the face of the earth. At least 10 thousand people died. More than 2 million people were left homeless; the tsunami washed away and destroyed port facilities and fishing villages.

The Western Andes are high and medium-height folded-block mountains that arose in the middle or at the end of the Alpine orogeny.

The highest peak of the Andes is Mount Aconcagua (6960 m).

The subsoil of the Andes is very rich in minerals, especially ores of non-ferrous and rare metals. Intermountain and foothill troughs are rich in oil.

The large extent of the mountains from north to south determined the diversity of climate in the northern and southern territories, western and eastern slopes. Temperatures at the surface of the Andes vary in January from +16°C (in the north) to +8° (in the south). At the equator, the January temperature is usually 4-24°C. In July in the north near the surface of the mountains +24°C, in the south 0°C. The greatest amount of precipitation falls in equatorial latitudes. There, on the Pacific coast, up to 7660 mm falls, and the mountain tops are covered with glaciers. Pacific coast between 5° and 30° S. lies in the area of coastal deserts. This climate is most pronounced in the tropical zone on the central plateaus of the Andes, where the air is extremely dry. A lot of precipitation falls in the southwest of the Andes, since these territories lie on the paths of westerly winds from the Pacific Ocean. Within the temperate zone, precipitation on the slopes of the Andes falls mainly in winter; in summer there is less rain, and cloudy cloudy weather predominates.

Most of the rivers originating in the Andes flow into the Atlantic Ocean. Only relatively small streams originating in the western part of the Andes flow into the Pacific Ocean. The Andes are home to the largest lake, Titicaca, located on the Andean plateau at an altitude of 3812 m. Maximum depth its depth is 304 m, the water is fresh. On the interior plateaus of the Andes there are many lakes of tectonic origin, shallow, drainless, and saline.

The mountainous terrain of the Andes determines the development of altitudinal zones here. The flora formed gradually, as the mountain system itself emerged. The large extent of the Andes is the reason that different areas differ in the composition of the belts, as well as their number. Ridges that are of great height and located in equatorial latitudes include the following belts:

— up to 1000 meters there are equatorial forests, not much different from the Amazon forests;

— up to 3000 meters there are mountain and alpine forests, in which bamboo, cinchona, and ancient ferns are found;

- up to 4000 meters, low trees, shrubs, and open forests begin to appear in the forests. Heather, myrtle, and low-growing bamboos are found here;

— above 4000 meters there are alpine meadows. The vegetation here consists of sparsely growing turf grasses, cushion-shaped. Flat areas are characterized by moss swamps, while steep slopes are characterized by barren rocky areas;

- over 4500 meters - a belt of eternal snow and ice.

In the subtropical climate zone, the number and composition of vertical zonation belts are somewhat different. There, at the foot of the mountains, there are deserts that turn into a belt of hard-leaved forests that extend to an altitude of approximately 2000 meters. On the eastern slopes, which are drier, the forest boundary lies 200 m lower. Now these forests are mostly destroyed. Woody vegetation is found here in the form of artificial plantings around populated areas and along fields. Here you can find plane trees, pine trees, and in the undergrowth - thickets of bright blooming geranium. The hard-leaved evergreen forests above give way to deciduous beech forests, and above 2500 meters there is a belt of mountain meadows that are used as pastures.

Large spaces are occupied by cultivated vegetation grown by humans. The largest part of the arable land is occupied by wheat and corn. In the equatorial latitudes of the Andes, cocoa is grown on slopes up to 1600 meters; higher up there are fields where coffee, cotton, tobacco, bananas, vegetables, potatoes, and legumes are grown. Mountain meadows are excellent pastures for livestock.

Ecuador Ecuador

Peru Peru

Bolivia Bolivia

Chile Chile

Argentina Argentina

Andes, Andean Cordillera(Spanish) Andes; Cordillera de los Andes ) - one of the longest (9000 km) and one of the highest (Mount Aconcagua, 6961 m) mountain systems on Earth, bordering all of South America from the north and west; southern part of the Cordillera. In some places, the Andes reach a width of over 500 km (the greatest width - up to 750 km - in the Central Andes, between 18° and 20° S). The average altitude is about 4000 m.

The Andes stretch across the territories of seven South American countries - Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina

origin of name

According to the Italian historian Giovanni Anello Oliva (g.), initially European conquerors " Andes or Cordilleras" ("Andes, o cordilleras") was called the eastern ridge, while the western one was called " Sierra"("sierra"). Currently, most scholars believe that the name comes from the Quechuan word anti(high ridge, ridge), although there are other opinions [ which?] .

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Geological structure and relief

The Andes are reborn mountains, erected by new uplifts on the site of the so-called Andean (Cordilleran) folded geosynclinal belt; The Andes are one of the largest systems of alpine folding on the planet (on the Paleozoic and partly Baikal folded basement). The beginning of the formation of the Andes dates back to Jurassic time. The Andean mountain system is characterized by troughs formed in the Triassic, subsequently filled with layers of sedimentary and volcanic rocks of considerable thickness. Large massifs of the Main Cordillera and the coast of Chile, the Coastal Cordillera of Peru are granitoid intrusions of Cretaceous age. Intermountain and regional troughs (Altiplano, Maracaibo, etc.) were formed in Paleogene and Neogene times. Tectonic movements, accompanied by seismic and volcanic activity, continue in our time. This is due to the fact that a subduction zone runs along the Pacific coast of South America: the Nazca and Antarctic plates go under the South American plate, which contributes to the development of mountain building processes. The southernmost part of South America, Tierra del Fuego, is separated by a transform fault from the small Scotia plate. Beyond the Drake Passage, the Andes continue the mountains of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The Andes are rich in ores of mainly non-ferrous metals (vanadium, tungsten, bismuth, tin, lead, molybdenum, zinc, arsenic, antimony, etc.); the deposits are confined mainly to the Paleozoic structures of the eastern Andes and the vents of ancient volcanoes; There are large copper deposits on the territory of Chile. There is oil and gas in the foredeep and foothill troughs (in the foothills of the Andes within Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina), and bauxite in the weathering crusts. The Andes also contain deposits of iron (in Bolivia), sodium nitrate (in Chile), gold, platinum and emeralds (in Colombia).

The Andes consist primarily of meridional parallel ridges: the Eastern Cordillera of the Andes, the Central Cordillera of the Andes, the Western Cordillera of the Andes, the Coastal Cordillera of the Andes, between which lie internal plateaus and plateaus (Puna, Altiplano - in Bolivia and Peru) or depressions. The width of the mountain system is generally 200-300 km.

Orography

Northern Andes

The main system of the Andes mountains (Andean Cordillera) consists of parallel ridges stretching in the meridional direction, separated by internal plateaus or depressions. Only the Caribbean Andes, located within Venezuela and belonging to the Northern Andes, stretch sublatitudinally along the coast of the Caribbean Sea. The northern Andes also include the Ecuadorian Andes (in Ecuador) and the Northwestern Andes (in western Venezuela and Colombia). The highest ridges of the Northern Andes have small modern glaciers, and eternal snow on the volcanic cones. The islands of Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao in the Caribbean Sea represent the peaks of the extension of the Northern Andes that descend into the sea.

In the Northwestern Andes, fan-shaped diverging north of 12° N. sh., there are three main Cordilleras - Eastern, Central and Western. All of them are high, steeply sloped and have a folded blocky structure. They are characterized by faults, uplifts and subsidences of modern times. The main Cordilleras are separated by large depressions - the valleys of the Magdalena and Cauca-Patia rivers.

The Eastern Cordillera has its highest altitude in its northeastern part (Mount Ritakuva, 5493 m); in the center of the Eastern Cordillera - an ancient lake plateau (predominant heights - 2.5 - 2.7 thousand m); The Eastern Cordillera is generally characterized by large planation surfaces. In the highlands there are glaciers. In the north, the Eastern Cordillera is continued by the Cordillera de Merida (highest point - Mount Bolivar, 5007 m) and Sierra de Perija (reaches a height of 3,540 m); Between these ranges, in a vast low-lying depression, lies Lake Maracaibo. In the far north there is the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta horst massif with altitudes up to 5800 m (Mount Cristobal Colon)

The Magdalena River Valley separates the Eastern Cordillera from the Central Cordillera, which is relatively narrow and high; in the Central Cordillera (especially in its southern part) there are many volcanoes (Hila, 5750 m; Ruiz, 5400 m; etc.), some of them active (Kumbal, 4890 m). To the north, the Central Cordillera decreases somewhat and forms the Antioquia massif, strongly dissected by river valleys. The Western Cordillera, separated from the Central Valley by the Cauca River, has lower altitudes (up to 4200 m); in the south of the Western Cordillera - volcanism. Further to the west is the low (up to 1810 m) Serrania de Baudo ridge, which turns into the mountains of Panama in the north. To the north and west of the Northwestern Andes are the Caribbean and Pacific alluvial lowlands.

As part of the Equatorial (Ecuadorian) Andes, reaching up to 4° S, there are two Cordilleras (Western and Eastern), separated by depressions 2500-2700 m high. Along the faults that limit these depressions (depressions) there is one of the highest volcanic volcanoes in the world chains (the highest volcanoes are Chimborazo, 6267 m, Cotopaxi, 5897 m). These volcanoes, as well as those of Colombia, form the first volcanic region of the Andes.

Central Andes

In the Central Andes (up to 28° S) there are the Peruvian Andes (extending south to 14°30 S) and the Central Andes proper. In the Peruvian Andes, as a result of recent uplifts and intensive incision of rivers (the largest of which - Marañon, Ucayali and Huallaga - belong to the upper Amazon system), parallel ridges (Eastern, Central and Western Cordillera) and a system of deep longitudinal and transverse canyons were formed, dismembering the ancient alignment surface . The peaks of the Cordillera of the Peruvian Andes exceed 6000 m (the highest point is Mount Huascaran, 6768 m); in the Cordillera Blanca - modern glaciation. Alpine landforms are also developed on the blocky ranges of the Cordillera Vilcanota, Cordillera de Vilcabamba, and Cordillera de Carabaya.

To the south is the widest part of the Andes - the Central Andean Highlands (width up to 750 km), where arid geomorphological processes predominate; a significant part of the highland is occupied by the Puna plateau with heights of 3.7 - 4.1 thousand m. Puna is characterized by drainage basins (“bolsons”) occupied by lakes (Titicaca, Poopo, etc.) and salt marshes (Atacama, Coipasa, Uyuni, etc. .). East of Puna is the Cordillera Real (Ankouma Peak, 6550 m) with thick modern glaciation; between the Altiplano plateau and the Cordillera Real, at an altitude of 3700 m, is the city of La Paz, the capital of Bolivia, the highest in the world. To the east of the Cordillera Real are the sub-Andean folded ridges of the Eastern Cordillera, reaching up to 23° S. latitude. The southern continuation of the Cordillera Real is the Cordillera Central, as well as several blocky massifs (the highest point is Mount El Libertador, 6720 m). From the west, Puna is framed by the Western Cordillera with intrusive peaks and numerous volcanic peaks (Sajama, 6780 m; Llullaillaco, 6739 m; San Pedro, 6145 m; Misti, 5821 m; etc.), included in the second volcanic region of the Andes. South of 19° S. the western slopes of the Western Cordillera face the tectonic depression of the Longitudinal Valley, occupied in the south by the Atacama Desert. Behind the Longitudinal Valley is the low (up to 1500 m) intrusive Coastal Cordillera, which is characterized by arid sculptural landforms.

In Puna and in the western part of the Central Andes there is a very high snow line (in places above 6,500 m), so snow is recorded only on the highest volcanic cones, and glaciers are found only in the Ojos del Salado massif (up to 6,880 m in height).

Southern Andes

Andes near the border of Argentina and Chile

In the Southern Andes, extending south of 28° S, two parts are distinguished - northern (Chilean-Argentine, or Subtropical Andes) and southern (Patagonian Andes). In the Chilean-Argentine Andes, narrowing to the south and reaching 39°41 S, a three-member structure is clearly expressed - Coastal Cordillera, Longitudinal Valley and Main Cordillera; within the latter, in the Cordillera Frontal, there is the highest peak of the Andes, Mount Aconcagua (6960 m), as well as the large peaks of Tupungato (6800 m), Mercedario (6770 m). The snow line here is very high (at 32°40 S - 6000 m). To the east of the Cordillera Frontal are the ancient Precordilleras.

South of 33° S. (and up to 52° S) is the third volcanic region of the Andes, where there are many active (mainly in the Main Cordillera and to the west of it) and extinct volcanoes (Tupungato, Maipa, Llymo, etc.)

When moving south, the snow line gradually decreases and at 51° S. reaches 1460 m. High ridges acquire features of the Alpine type, the area of modern glaciation increases, and numerous glacial lakes appear. South of 40° S. The Patagonian Andes begin with lower ridges than in the Chilean-Argentine Andes (the highest point is Mount San Valentin - 4058 m) and active volcanism in the north. About 52° S the strongly dissected Coastal Cordillera plunges into the ocean, and its peaks form a chain of rocky islands and archipelagos; The longitudinal valley turns into a system of straits reaching the western part of the Strait of Magellan. In the area of the Strait of Magellan, the Andes (called the Andes of Tierra del Fuego) sharply deviate to the east. In the Patagonian Andes, the height of the snow line barely exceeds 1500 m (in the extreme south it is 300-700 m, and from 46°30 S latitude glaciers descend to ocean level), glacial landforms predominate (at 48° S latitude - powerful Patagonian ice sheet) with an area of over 20 thousand km², from where many kilometers of glacial tongues descend to the west and east); some of the valley glaciers on the eastern slopes end in large lakes. Along the coasts, heavily indented by fjords, young volcanic cones rise (Corcovado and others). The Andes of Tierra del Fuego are relatively low (up to 2469 m).

Climate

Northern Andes

The northern part of the Andes belongs to the subequatorial belt of the Northern Hemisphere; here, as in the subequatorial zone of the Southern Hemisphere, there is an alternation of wet and dry seasons; Precipitation falls from May to November, but in the most northern regions the wet season is shorter. The eastern slopes are moistened much more than the western ones; Precipitation (up to 1000 mm per year) falls mainly in summer. In the Caribbean Andes, located on the border of the tropical and subequatorial zones, tropical air dominates throughout the year; there is little rainfall (often less than 500 mm per year); The rivers are short with characteristic summer floods.

In the equatorial belt, seasonal variations are practically absent; Thus, in the capital of Ecuador, Quito, the change in average monthly temperatures over the year is only 0.4 °C. Precipitation is abundant (up to 10,000 mm per year, although usually 2500-7000 mm per year) and is distributed more evenly along the slopes than in the subequatorial belt. Altitudinal zonation is clearly expressed. In the lower part of the mountains there is a hot and humid climate, precipitation falls almost daily; in the depressions there are numerous swamps. With altitude, the amount of precipitation decreases, but the thickness of the snow cover increases. Up to altitudes of 2500-3000 m, temperatures rarely drop below 15 °C; seasonal temperature fluctuations are insignificant. There are already large daily temperature fluctuations here (up to 20 °C), the weather can change dramatically during the day. At altitudes of 3500-3800 m, daily temperatures fluctuate around 10 °C. Higher up there is a harsh climate with frequent snow storms and snowfalls; Daytime temperatures are positive, but there are severe frosts at night. The climate is dry, as there is little precipitation due to high evaporation. Above 4500 m there is eternal snow.

Central Andes

Between 5° and 28° S. There is a pronounced asymmetry in the distribution of precipitation along the slopes: the western slopes are moistened much less than the eastern ones. To the west of the Main Cordillera there is a desert tropical climate (the formation of which is greatly facilitated by the cold Peruvian Current), and there are very few rivers. If in the northern part of the Central Andes 200-250 mm of precipitation falls per year, then to the south their amount decreases and in some places does not exceed 50 mm per year. This part of the Andes is home to the Atacama, the driest desert. globe. Deserts rise in places up to 3000 m above sea level. The few oases are located mainly in the valleys of small rivers fed by the waters of mountain glaciers. The average January temperature in coastal areas ranges from 24 °C in the north to 19 °C in the south, and the average July temperature ranges from 19 °C in the north to 13 °C in the south. Above 3000 m, in dry puna, there is also little precipitation (rarely more than 250 mm per year); There are arrivals of cold winds when the temperature can drop to −20 °C. The average July temperature does not exceed 15 °C.

At low altitudes, with very little rain, there is significant (up to 80%) air humidity, which is why fog and dew are frequent. The Altiplano and Puna plateaus have a very harsh climate, with average annual temperatures not exceeding 10 °C. The large Lake Titicaca has a softening effect on the climate of the surrounding areas - in the lakeside areas, temperature fluctuations are not as significant as in other parts of the plateau. To the east of the Main Cordillera there is a large amount of precipitation (3000 - 6000 mm per year) (brought mainly in the summer by easterly winds), a dense river network. Along the valleys, air masses from the Atlantic Ocean cross the Eastern Cordillera, moistening its western slope. Above 6000 m in the north and 5000 m in the south - negative average annual temperatures; Due to the dry climate, there are few glaciers.

Southern Andes

In the Chilean-Argentine Andes the climate is subtropical, and the humidification of the western slopes - due to winter cyclones - is greater than in the subequatorial zone; When moving south, annual precipitation amounts on the western slopes increase rapidly. Summer is dry, winter is wet. As you move away from the ocean, the climate becomes more continental and seasonal temperature fluctuations increase. In the city of Santiago, located in the Longitudinal Valley, the average temperature of the warmest month is 20 °C, the coldest month is 7-8 °C; There is little precipitation in Santiago, 350 mm per year (to the south, in Valdivia, there is more precipitation - 750 mm per year). On the western slopes of the Main Cordillera there is more precipitation than in the Longitudinal Valley (but less than on the Pacific coast).

When moving south, the subtropical climate of the western slopes smoothly transforms into the oceanic climate of temperate latitudes: annual precipitation amounts increase, and differences in moisture between seasons decrease. Strong westerly winds bring to the coast a large number of precipitation (up to 6000 mm per year, although usually 2000-3000 mm). It rains heavily for more than 200 days a year, thick fog often falls on the coast, and the sea is constantly stormy; the climate is unfavorable for living. The eastern slopes (between 28° and 38° S) are drier than the western ones (and only in the temperate zone, south of 37° S, due to the influence of westerly winds, their moisture increases, although they remain less humid compared to Western ones). The average temperature of the warmest month on the western slopes is only 10-15 °C (the coldest month is 3-7 °C)

In the extreme southern part of the Andes, Tierra del Fuego, there is a very humid climate, which is formed by strong, humid westerly and southwesterly winds; Precipitation (up to 3000 mm) falls mainly in the form of drizzle (which occurs most days of the year). Only in the easternmost part of the archipelago is there much less precipitation. Stands throughout the year low temperatures(temperature fluctuations between seasons are extremely insignificant).

Soils and vegetation

The soil and vegetation cover of the Andes is very diverse. This is due to the high altitudes of the mountains and the significant difference in moisture content between the western and eastern slopes. Altitudinal zonation in the Andes is clearly expressed. There are three altitudinal zones - Tierra Caliente, Tierra Fria and Tierra Elada.

On the slopes of the Patagonian Andes south of 38° S. - subarctic multi-tiered forests of tall trees and shrubs, mostly evergreen, on

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origin of name

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