How does the toilet cistern flush mechanism work? Flushing mechanisms for toilet cistern Flushing mechanism

For comfortable stay people need water supply and room lighting, as well as properly functioning plumbing fixtures connected to sewer system. One of the most popular plumbing fixtures is the toilet and cistern. Currently, cisterns are most often equipped with buttons responsible for the smooth flush of water into the toilet. The toilet cistern button becomes unusable over time or requires repair. Read on to find out how to do this.

Tank device with button

A cistern is a container that holds water for flushing. For operation, the tank is equipped with elements. Device cistern toilet with button:

1. drain mechanism. The device connected to the button is responsible for draining the water. At the bottom, the flush mechanism is equipped with a sealed membrane that protects against water leakage into the toilet;

The drain mechanism can be equipped with:

• single-mode button. The water is released when you press a button. In this case, all the liquid from the tank enters the toilet;

• dual-mode button. The button with several operating modes is divided into two parts: small and large. When using a smaller portion, half of the liquid in the tank ends up in the toilet. When draining the water most of the button, the water is drained in full.

Using a button with two operating modes allows you to save cold water.

1. filling valve responsible for collecting water into the container. The filling mechanism is equipped with a float that regulates the water level in the tank. The mechanism may have:
   • lateral water supply. Most often found in tanks Russian production. Distinctive feature the mechanism is the formation of noise when collecting water;

• lower water supply. When installing a valve with a bottom connection, it is important to achieve complete tightness of the connection.

All fittings installed in are interconnected. After pressing the button, the water drains. In this case, the filling valve float drops to the bottom of the container and opens the inlet valve. Water begins to flow from the water supply and raises the float to established level. When the container is full, the inlet valve will automatically close.

Button repair

Tank fittings may become unusable for the following reasons:

• use of low-quality mechanisms. Professional plumbers recommend installing cistern fittings manufactured by companies such as Cersanit, Vidima, Jika;
• natural wear and tear. Any device is designed for a certain number of years of use or number of flushing cycles;
• mechanical damage. Careless use may result in damage.

Button malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

The most common malfunctions of the push-button mechanism are:

• “sticking” of the button, that is, the water is flushed only after pressing the drain device multiple times;
• failure of the button, that is, the button mechanism is lowered into the container of the cistern.

Removing sticking

If the water is flushed after pressing the button multiple times, then the malfunction is associated with the rod connecting the drain device and the drain mechanism.

To resolve the problem you must:

1. shut off the flow of water into the tank;
2. remove the tank cap. To do this, first of all, the inner part of the button is removed, and then the locking ring located on the button is unscrewed counterclockwise and removed;

1. the button is removed;

1. the rod is being repaired;
2. the system is assembled in reverse order.

The rod is made of plastic. Therefore, repairs most often come down to a complete replacement of the product. To temporarily eliminate the malfunction, the rod can be replaced with wire.

Failure Elimination

If the toilet cistern flush button fails, the reasons for the breakdown may be:

• incorrect setting of the drainage device (insufficient height of the button is selected);
• failure of the spring that returns the button to its original position. The problem is solved by replacing the spring.

To configure the drain mechanism, you need to:

1. turn off the water supply to the container and completely drain the remaining liquid;
2. remove the drain mechanism (the whole thing turns to the left until it clicks);
3. press out the latches securing the glass;
4. increase height;

1. install the valve and cover;
2. Check that the problem has been resolved and repeat the procedure if necessary.

How to adjust the drain mechanism is shown in the video.

Replacing a button

If the above steps do not help resolve the problem trigger mechanism tank, then the drain button needs to be replaced. You can do the work in the following way:

1. remove the button according to the diagram described in detail above;
2. disconnect the button from the exhaust valve;
3. install a new device.

The new toilet button must completely match the broken device. Otherwise, the drain valve will need to be replaced.

All work to troubleshoot the button must be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the remaining elements of the fittings. If you can’t fix the problem yourself, then it’s better to turn to specialists for help.

In modern times it is difficult to imagine an apartment or private house without this important element plumbing, like a toilet. Often it is necessary to carry out repairs or preventative work toilet. In order to carry out this type of work competently, it is necessary to understand the structure and operating principle of such plumbing fixtures. This will be discussed in the article.

There are two options for making toilets:

1. Hanging or wall mounted when the cistern is hung on the wall or is missing altogether.
2. Floor-standing— toilets complete with a cistern, free-standing toilets, side-mounted ones (full contact with the wall), Turkish-type toilets or “Genoa” bowls (requires squatting during use).

Toilets consist of three main elements:

1. Bowl;
2. cistern;
3. Seat and cover (toilet).

Bowl

The main component of the bowl is a siphon or hydraulic seal. A siphon is a curved channel that is filled with water, it provides the outlet waste water into the sewer without blockages and blocks gases from unpleasant smell access to the premises.

Siphon operating principle

The operation of the siphon is based on the principle of change atmospheric pressure and air pressure in the riser and sewer network. When the value of atmospheric pressure is higher than the same indicator of air in the sewer and riser, the volume of liquid in the water seal decreases, therefore, part of it enters the riser.

The opposite situation is also possible. Traditionally, the siphon entrance is made straight, and the exit can be either straight or inclined. It is worth remembering that when plumbing equipment is not used for a long time, the liquid from the water seal may evaporate completely or partially.

cistern

The flush tank is needed to ensure that the amount of water required for cleaning is supplied to the toilet bowl. Most often, this component of the toilet is made from ordinary ceramics (as for compact toilets).

Along with ceramics, they produce tanks made of plastic, cast iron, stainless steel and other materials.

We propose to consider the design of a cistern using the example of a plastic model with a side water supply.

For such designs, the main elements of the tank will be:

1. Float type valve
2. Pear combined with overflow
3. Float

• The bulb is made of rubber, the float is usually made of plastic, and the rod is made of non-corrosive metals (copper or brass). When the water is drained, the pear will float up after all the water has been drained rubber element returns to its place, thereby blocking the drain hole.
• An overflow is a cylinder with a neck. It is necessary to flush excess water into the toilet bowl if the float valve is faulty. However, it can be either separate structural element, and combined with a rubber bulb.
• In houses old building Often a toilet was installed with a highly suspended cistern, almost right under the ceiling. To ensure the drainage of water from such a tank, a siphon mechanism is used, which has a significant drawback in the form of noisy operation.
• The tank is connected to the water supply pipes through a reinforced rubber hose, which is secured with metal or brass nuts with O-rings.
• Cheaper, but less reliable, is the connection option using a plastic hose and plastic nuts.
• The pipe that connects the tank to the pipeline with cold water, can be located on the side of the tank (side water supply) or at the bottom (bottom water supply). It is worth noting that with a lower water supply the noise level is much lower. In addition, the second option is preferable from an aesthetic point of view.

Compact toilets have one hole on each side. During installation, one of them is used to connect the water supply, and the second is closed with a special plastic plug, which is secured with a latch or union nut. If necessary, it is easy to swap the plug and the float-type valve.

Important! The most critical and difficult moment in the design of the flush tank is the float-type valve in combination with the float itself.

There are two options for this design:

1. Adjustable
2. Non-adjustable valves.

Regardless of the type of this element, the valve must flawlessly perform its function - automatically stop the supply of water to the tank when the barrier level is reached.

Today, dual-mode flush mechanisms are widely used, which allow you to regulate the volume of water drained into the toilet bowl. In order to remove the cistern lid of a toilet with such a mechanism, you first need to unscrew the flush button itself.

• Pressure washer
• Pad
• Saddle
• Membrane
• Kernel
• Float lever
• Lever axis

toilet seat

A toilet seat is necessary primarily from the point of view of hygiene rules. Therefore, plastic toilet seats and lids have become widespread.

At the same time, seating options with soft foam rubber do not lose popularity. The toilet seat is attached to the toilet using special fasteners various designs and made from different materials(plastic, metal).

Toilet cistern repair

Probably the most common problem associated with the operation of drain tanks is the appearance of leaks. Needless to say, this situation is undesirable, especially if the apartment has a water meter (a leak will lead to additional costs).

The main causes of leaks

Among the entire range of reasons that can cause a tank leak, the most significant and common ones can be identified:

• Violation of the tightness of the bulb or gaskets (petals).
• Float adjustment is incorrect. In this case, the water will pass through the overflow level and flow out.
• When flushing water, there is a leak between the tank and the toilet platform itself.
• Violation of the tightness of the connection between the hose and the float valve.
• Violation of tightness in threaded connection cistern and toilet.

Troubleshooting Methods

To carry out repair work In order to correct any malfunction, the first step is to remove the top cover of the drain tank.

Violation of the tightness of the bulb or gaskets

In this case, there is a constant flow of water into the bowl. To eliminate the malfunction, you need to remove the pear and inspect it carefully.

With prolonged use, deformation of the bulb and gaskets or the formation of plaque on them is possible. You will need to wipe these elements and try to fit them tightly together. If the bulb and the gasket cannot be tightly connected, these elements must be replaced.

Float adjustment failure

With this malfunction, water constantly flows through the overflow valve. There are a number of reasons for this violation:

• The float lever is not enough to close the float type valve. To solve the problem you need to bend the lever.
• The design of your float matches the picture on the left. Use a plastic pin to lower the float level. After this, the adjustment will be completed and the leak will disappear.
• Water got into the float. In this case, the float is removed, the water is drained from it and put back in place.
• The float cannot shut off the water because the gasket inside its valve has worn out. In this case, the structure is disassembled, the gasket is turned over to the other side or a new one is cut out.

If any of these reasons cannot be eliminated, then the float mechanism must be completely replaced with a new one.

The appearance of a leak between the tank and the toilet when flushing water

The cause of this malfunction may be:

• There is a looseness in the thread connected to the cistern and toilet. To solve the problem, it is necessary to tighten all the bolts and nuts, but without applying special effort so as not to destroy the platform between the tank and the toilet.
• Casting defects in plumbing fixtures. In this case, it is necessary to treat the leakage areas with sealant.

Loss of tightness between the hose and the float valve

Causes of malfunction:

• Loosening the nuts, to solve the problem you need to take spanner and tighten the nuts.
• The connection gasket is damaged. It is necessary to unscrew the nut, replace the gasket and screw the hose nut back.

Loss of tightness in the threaded connection of the tank and toilet.

Most likely the reason is a weakening of the connection itself. To fix the problem, you need to tighten the bolts and nuts without putting much effort. If the leak is not eliminated, then these elements must be completely unscrewed, lubricated with gaskets (treated with sealant) and screwed back.

Useful information ! Faults of this kind can be easily fixed on your own. This will bring you experience and new skills, and will also help you significantly save money on your family budget.

To illustrate the methods described in the article for troubleshooting the drain tank, we suggest watching the video.

The first priority after installing the toilet in place and connecting it to the sewerage system is to install the cistern fittings. From correct installation and the quality regulation of this plumbing equipment will depend on the uninterrupted operation of the entire system. The tank fittings are a device that ensures that it is filled with water after emptying during draining, automatic regulation the amount of water drained and control of its overflow. How to install the tank fittings correctly, read our article.

Installation of cistern fittings

The fittings for the toilet cistern consist of the following components:

• angled drain hole;
• an overflow tube installed on the side of the drain hole;
• valve covers with rubber;
• tank filling mechanism;
• drain button mechanism.

Before setting up the toilet fittings, let's consider its main components.

Tank filling mechanism

This device ensures that the toilet tank is filled with water to a certain level. This mechanism includes:

• float device;
• shut-off valve.

A float attached to a metal or plastic lever lowers or rises as the water level in the tank changes. When the tank is filled with water, the float rises, reaching the maximum level. The lever connected to it closes the shut-off valve, and water does not flow into the tank from the water supply system. When the water is drained, the float lowers and the lever allows water from the pipe to enter the toilet tank.

Water drainage mechanism (drain mechanism)

The flush mechanism is designed to allow water from the tank to directly enter the toilet. Components of the release mechanism:

• drain siphon;
• release lever (handle).

The siphon hermetically closes the drain hole, preventing water leakage. There are several types of siphons. The simplest form drain siphon - the familiar “pear” - a rubber cylinder similar in shape to a plunger. The device for flushing water into the toilet (raising the “pear”) most often consists of either a lever located on the side of the tank or a handle on the lid, which must be pulled up to flush the water. More modern version drain device - a button that is located on the front wall of the tank. This mechanism is most often installed on tanks that are built into the wall.

Installation and configuration of fittings

After installing the toilet in the designated place and then connecting the toilet to the sewerage system, the next step is to install the cistern fittings: video offered as small instructions, will help to carry out this work correctly.

Installation of toilet cistern fittings

Let's consider the technology for installing toilet cistern fittings:

1. Place a rubber gasket on the drain mechanism.
2. Install the mechanism into the tank, screw it with a plastic nut.
3. Place plastic or iron (depending on the configuration) washers and rubber gaskets on the mounting bolts. Insert bolts into holes. On the other side, put on the plastic washer and tighten the nut.
4. Place on plastic nut o-ring made of rubber. If a new ring is used, sealing is not required. If you used a ring that had already been in use, you should carefully coat all connections with sealant.

Pro tip: Careful inspection of all structural parts may reveal minor casting defects. In this case, you will also need to use a sealant. The installation site of the sealing ring must also be coated with a layer of sealant, having previously cleaned it.

1. Place the tank on the toilet platform and secure it with nuts.
2. Secure the filling mechanism. Attach the hose from the water supply pipe.
3. Replace the reservoir cap. Screw on the drain button.

Pro tip: You should not wrap anything additional around the threads of the mounted mechanism to drain water when putting on the hose. Try not to allow distortion, so as not to break the thread and damage the part.

Adjustment of fittings

Installing the toilet and cistern should not cause much difficulty. But in some cases, additional adjustments to the toilet fittings may be necessary. So, to adjust the height of the drain valve:

1. Disconnect the rod from the overflow pipe.
2. Release the glass clamp.
3. Move the stand down or up.

The water level in the barrel is adjusted as follows:

1. Adjust the position of the glass - raise or lower it along the guide, leaving a distance from the top of the glass to the top edge of the tank of at least 45 mm.
2. Install the overflow tube 20 mm above the maximum water level and 70 mm below the top level of the rack.

To adjust the small flush, the small flush float must be moved down or up relative to the overflow tube. How to set up a full flush? Move the damper (up or down) relative to the glass.

Adjusting the toilet fittings to full or low flush means that moving the float or flapper down increases the flow of flushed water.

The flush mechanism for the toilet cistern malfunctions from time to time. To solve the problem, there are two ways out: call a plumber, waiting long and nervously for him to arrive, or fix the bathroom yourself. The second option is cheaper and faster, but for correct implementation work, you need to know several nuances, including the structure of the unit and the features of its operation.

General information

There are several designs of cisterns available on the market. Regardless of this, they are characterized by the presence of a pair mandatory elements- floor or wall container and top The principle of operation of the flush mechanism for the toilet tank is based on the operation of a hydraulic valve, which includes flushing water through the influence of gravity after pressing the active element (button or lever).

IN traditional scheme The tank and toilet installations are connected into one unit. The main advantage of the design is the combination of two elements without the need to install an additional exhaust pipe. Although effective and practical classical scheme, analogues of built-in and suspended types are becoming increasingly popular. This allows you to completely hide the drain tank, and the system is started by activating a push-button regulator located on the panel.

Types of flush mechanism for toilet cistern

Most often they use push-button or rod drainage devices. The first option is relevant for closed containers; the button is placed on the side or in the center of the tank. There is an option for installing a device with two buttons, one of which works in full mode, the second drains water at half the rate. This allows you to save resources if there is such a need.

Levers and chains are used in the system wall hung toilets. To operate the mechanism, it is enough to pull the lever connected to the chain. It is usually located on the side of the tank. Regardless of the type of installation, a distinction is made between mechanical and automatic flushing. Repairing these two structures also has its own characteristics.

Water supply system

The flush mechanism in the toilet cistern provides for two types of water supply, namely:

1. Lateral entry. It involves placing shut-off valves in the upper part. This design is preferable in domestic systems. This solution is characterized by low cost and ease of maintenance, however, it is characterized by a high noise level during water collection. Improved modifications include a special tube that helps supply water directly to the bottom part tank, which significantly reduces noise.
2. Bottom feed. This technology is used by various manufacturers; it involves the flow of liquid from the bottom of the tank. This design is quieter, more efficient, but also more expensive.

The mechanism of the toilet cistern

To correctly identify and troubleshoot problems, it is necessary to have a general understanding of the structure of the mechanism in question. All modifications have a fairly similar design.

The internal part includes the following elements:

1. Shut-off and drain fittings, which regulates drainage and prevents leakage of excess liquid. When filling the reservoir, water promotes a tighter seal. special valve to the drain hole. As a result, fluid leakage stops. If this functionality is not observed and the tank leaks water, this indicates a malfunction or malfunction of the shut-off devices.
2. Filling valve. It is combined with water supply and is aimed at adjusting the water level in the drain tank. After reaching a certain level, the water supply stops. This operating principle is typical for a toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button. Modern models are equipped with a filling valve in the lower bowl and a vertical placement of the float.

There is no water supply to the tank: what to do?

This malfunction is one of the most common in the system. The main reason is clogging of the narrow part of the valve element. You can fix the defect yourself without any problems: you need to drain all the water from the tank, remove the valve along with the float and lever. Then, the opened hole must be cleaned with a needle or wire.

After this, unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe (a couple of turns) and wash out the residual clog with waste water. Next, you need to check for free passage of fluid. If everything is in order, you can mount the removed elements in their places.

Water leaking into the room

If water appears in the room, the flush mechanism for the toilet tank must be checked for tightness and integrity of the fasteners. At the same time, do not panic, blocking everything and everywhere, calling plumbers and ordering a new toilet. Most often, you can solve the problem in the following ways:

1. Replace the O-ring between the tank and the toilet bowl, first checking it for defects.
2. Carry out a similar operation with the gaskets of the mounting screws.

These malfunctions do not require careful diagnostics; they are detected by visual and tactile inspection. If the above methods do not help, it is recommended to remove the tank and replace it rubber seal on the drain channel, as well as related elements on the mounting bolts.

Repairing a model with a button

Repair of the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button is carried out in the following sequence:

• The locking ring near the button is unscrewed. You should not use extreme force, since the element is made primarily of plastic.
• Remove the cover and begin the repair.
• If it turns out that the float is in the wrong position, correct it by first removing the cover.
• If the bulb is deformed, it will need to be replaced. To remove it, fix the float in the upper position, unscrew the nut securing the pipe and drain, and remove the entire part of the free mechanism.
• After removing the faulty bulb, install new model in the reverse order of removal.
• If the bolts for fixing the working elements are worn out, replace them.

Let's look at this process in more detail. It also consists of several stages, which include repairing the toilet cistern flush mechanism with a button:

1. The remaining water from the tank is completely removed.
2. It is unscrewed, which is located between the float valve and is released by tilting the tank shelf.
3. The faulty bolt and its paired counterpart are removed. This is important because then new paired screws made of brass or stainless steel are selected. Their size must be identical.
4. The earthenware underneath is dismantled seat pears, thoroughly cleaned. Similar manipulations are carried out with the shelf and drain tank. The pear is lubricated with sealant, enhancing its tightness.

Assembly occurs in reverse order. To prevent deformation fragile material It is necessary to carefully tighten all fasteners with slight force. After assembly, the assembly is checked, observing the presence or absence of leaks.

Malfunctions and repair of the trigger lever

Do not rush to learn how to remove the flush mechanism in the toilet cistern if there is no water flushing when you press the button. In the future, this unit will definitely need to be replaced, however, temporary repairs can be performed. Most likely, the cause of the problem is a lack of traction.

Temporary troubleshooting is carried out as follows:

• The rod is made from thick wire twisted into several turns. It will serve as a replacement to the original element However, its validity period is very limited. Over time, the element will begin to bend and fail.
• Before starting repair work on the drain tank, loosen the lid latches. To do this, turn the decorative nut a couple of turns. This approach will allow you to gain access to the serviced node.

Replacing the drain tank

How to change the flush mechanism in a toilet cistern? To do this you will need to open the lid. In its niche there are special drain holes with a diameter of 10-20 mm. They serve to supply water. One of these sockets is used to fix filling fittings equipped with a membrane-type valve.

Since the membrane is very sensitive to the quality of the liquid, its working life depends on the additional filter elements installed. In the case of a complete absence of filters, it is better to replace such a part with a lever rod analogue.

The usual method of solving problems arising from malfunctions of the toilet cistern is to completely replace the parts. It will not take much time and will not require a large investment. financial resources. For cheap modifications, new fittings are purchased, taking into account current sizes connected pipes and threads.

Before installation, the joints are sealed, the reinforcement is tightened with a nut and bolt, and decorative plugs are inserted. Do not forget about seals and adjusting the tightening force of fasteners, which should be in moderation. Otherwise, ceramic and plastic parts may become deformed, after which you will have to start all over again.

Final stage

The bottom of the cistern is equipped with a special hole for attaching to the toilet. It is produced using metal or plastic screws with nuts. Each type of fastener has its own advantages and disadvantages: metal version more reliable and durable, but susceptible to corrosion. Plastic is not so durable, but is not afraid of moisture, although it requires the use of additional seals and gaskets. The main shut-off valves are mounted in the center of the drain tank and secured with a washer and a special gasket.

A toilet flush system is a mechanism that is mounted inside the tank. To make using the toilet convenient, the flush mechanism must be correctly selected, installed and configured. It is these issues that the article will be devoted to.

System Description

Operating principle

The design of the drain tank is not complicated. The tank is a container with a mechanical locking system inside.

This system performs the following functions:

• controlled drainage of water from the tank;
• filling the tank with water after draining;
• stopping the flow of water into the tank after it is filled at a certain level.

The toilet cistern flush mechanism works like this:

1. Through the fill valve in the bottom or wall of the tank, water enters the container.
2. As the containers fill, they activate control devices(floats, valves, etc.). As soon as the water level in the tank reaches the set value, the supply stops. To do this, the filling valve is blocked.

1. When we need to drain, we press a button on the tank or pull a lever. As a result, the drain valve in the bottom opens and water flows into the toilet bowl.

1. Tanks with two buttons work similarly. By pressing the smaller one, we release only part of the water from the tank, and by pressing the larger one, we ensure complete drainage. This helps save fluid, so most modern models is equipped with just such two-button mechanisms.
2. After draining, the water level drops, the control devices are activated and the inlet valve opens again.

By and large, this is how all water drainage/receipt systems work, regardless of their design. Of course, there are nuances, but if you understand general principle, you will most likely be able to deal with unfamiliar fittings quite quickly.

Basic elements

In order for the entire water supply system to function as I described above, several parts must interact. U different mechanisms they may look different, but overall the set is quite typical.

It includes:

1. Filling (inlet) valve. It is a threaded pipe that is inserted into the hole in the bottom or side wall of the tank. The presence of a thread allows you to press the pipe against the wall of the container using nuts, ensuring. A locking mechanism connected to the rocker is responsible for opening/closing the gap through which water flows.

1. The rocker arm is the lever that drives the intake valve mechanism. The free end of the rocker arm is attached to either a float (a plastic sealed container) or a control valve. When this valve is triggered or the float floats up, the rocker arm rises and closes the gap in the filling valve, and vice versa.
2. The drain hole is normally closed by a drain valve. It is a flat or hemispherical elastic gasket connected by a hinge to the load-bearing part.

1. On top is a push-button or lever mechanism that controls the operation of the drain valve. When used, its load-bearing part rises (either a chain, a lever, or plastic frame), opening the hole. Water enters the bowl at a fairly high speed, and all the contents are washed down the drain.

These elements can be arranged in different ways. In older models, water supply systems with overflow control and flushing systems with control levers/buttons were mounted separately. Modern fittings are usually produced as a single complex. On the one hand, it is easier to install and configure, but on the other hand, repairs are seriously complicated.

Varieties and their choice

A convenient toilet flush is very important for the comfortable use of the device, so it is advisable to choose a model quite pickily. There are several factors to consider.

The first factor is the placement of the filling valve:

• lower - the pipe is located in the bottom of the drain tank. A pair of gaskets are responsible for sealing;
• side - a pipe with a valve is inserted into the tank through a hole in the side wall, located almost under the lid. In this case, the entry point is made conditionally airtight, because water usually does not reach it.

In terms of efficiency and comfort, I would recommend models with a bottom connection. They do not make as much noise when filling, and shut-off valves of this configuration are also more reliable. The weak point is the gasket, so the tightness must be monitored very carefully.

• older models are equipped with a lever, to which a chain or cord with a handle is usually attached. Among modern products this arrangement is found only in antique-style toilets;
• button - universal solution for all mass-produced tanks. The advantage is the relatively small stroke, which allows you to control the volume of water drained;
• The dual-mode tank is equipped with a two-button system. In it, one button is responsible for emptying part of the tank, the second is responsible for the hollow drain. The system is more economical, but also more capricious - it is more difficult to configure and repair.

Here the choice is quite obvious - a push-button or two-button option.

Finally, we pay attention to the overflow control mechanism.

Here the choice is much wider, but from the point of view of a simple “user”, two options can be distinguished:

• float system - the shut-off valve is controlled by a rocker arm or lever connected to a float.
• membrane system - when filling the tank, water acts on membrane unit, which activates the locking mechanism.

Despite the fact that many manufacturers of sanitary ware in lately They install a membrane system, I would recommend abandoning it.

Yes, it works well, but there are two nuances:

1. The membrane fails unpredictably, so at one “perfect” moment the overflow blocking may simply turn off. If you have good sound insulation and you don’t hear the murmur, the consequences will be serious.

1. If the mechanism fails, it is quite difficult to repair it even with a new membrane. After replacing a worn element, adjustment takes a very long time, but this does not guarantee that the diaphragm valve will operate 100% of the time.

It’s not news to anyone that the water recovery device is capable of failure. For such a situation, the design of the flush mechanism of the toilet cistern has an overflow. As soon as the water exceeds the designated level, it will begin to flow into the corresponding tube and will go directly through the bowl into the sewer. The device is designed so that liquid cannot leak out of the tank. If this transfusion works, it will lead to an increase in the cold water meter data, but most importantly, it will prevent a flood. The toilet flush is divided into horizontal and circular according to its design.

Horizontal implies the supply of water in a single stream along one side of the bowl and is classic version execution.

The round descent involves the formation of a jet in a circular manner, starting from the contour of the bowl and is considered the best in terms of all user characteristics.

The optimal solution in such a situation is to change not the membrane, but the entire fittings, albeit with a cheaper float one.

Tank maintenance

Installation of the mechanism

If necessary, you can install the drain mechanism in the tank yourself. This is done either when replacing a failed system, or when purchasing a separate tank and separate fittings.

In this case, work is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. For replacement, we purchase fittings suitable for our tank model. The most important parameters are the location of the inlets (top or side), their dimensions, the size of the drain hole and the overall dimensions. Ideally, it is advisable to take a mechanism for the same model - it will definitely work.
2. Now turn off the water and press the drain button to remove everything that remains in the tank.

1. The toilet flush button is carefully unscrewed, after which we are able to remove the lid.
2. Disconnect the water supply hose.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the filler pipe. We remove the part itself from the hole.

For structures with bottom water supply, it is advisable to place a small container under the hole. Liquid that collects at the bottom of the tank and does not go down the drain will flow into it.

1. Dismantling inner part fittings, removing it from the tank.

1. We unscrew the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet bowl and remove it. We dismantle the lower part of the drain system and sealing gaskets.

This completes the disassembly. Now you can wipe the inside of the tank and the holes in the bowl to remove deposits. At the same time, it is worth cleaning the channels in the side parts of the bowl that ensure the distribution of drained water - they can become clogged with debris and lime deposits. Usually it’s impossible to get to these places, but here is the opportunity!

The installation instructions for the drain mechanism suggest performing the work in the reverse order:

1. We install the lower part of the drain system with sealing gaskets into the hole.
2. We put the tank in place, level it and fix it with mounting bolts.

Poor quality bolts may rust over long periods of use. Parts with signs of corrosion should be replaced with new ones.

1. We install the inner part of the drain mechanism, securing it to the drain hole.
2. We insert the filling valve into the hole in the side wall or bottom of the tank and secure it with a nut and sealing gaskets.

1. We connect the water supply hose to the outlet pipe of the filling valve. We turn on the water and check how the system works.
2. We adjust the operation of the mechanism, if necessary, adjusting the height of the overflow (about 20 mm below the top hole) and the length of the rod connecting the drain to the button.

1. If the drainage, filling and overflow control function correctly, and no leaks appear at the mounting points, replace the cover. We fix the lid on the tank by screwing the button.

Of course, differences in models may cause deviations from this algorithm. But, at the same time, most cisterns are designed exactly according to this scheme, which is why in 95% of cases this is how toilet fittings are installed.

The exception is built-in models, in which the drain mechanism and tank are located in the wall. If you have just such a device, and it shows signs of malfunction, the most the right decision will contact a specialist!

Troubleshooting

Despite the fact that the price of fittings for a drain tank is relatively low, in some cases you can do without replacing it. To do this, it is enough to carry out relatively simple repairs or buy one or two parts.

When identifying a malfunction, the easiest way is to open the tank lid, gaining access to its insides, and see what, in fact, is not working as it should. If the system is at least somewhat familiar to you, then to understand the reasons, it is enough to drain and fill the water a couple of times.

In addition, for quick diagnosis and troubleshooting, you can use the table:

Conclusion

The mechanism for flushing water in the toilet is not the best complex design. The tips and illustrations in this article will help you understand how it works, how to install it and, if necessary, repair it. The video in this article contains more visual information, and you can ask questions in the comments.