Making a drill bit for an auger yourself. How to make a drill for a well with your own hands: diagrams of the best homemade products

For drilling a well or earthworks a drill can become an indispensable tool. From our article you will learn how to make a drill with your own hands. We will consider the main options for its manufacture and the features of the workflow. Will also be given practical recommendations and advice.

You can drill a large number of holes for planting shrubs or trees or for installing fence posts, as well as drilling a well for water using an excavation drill. On the farm, this tool can come to your aid many times. Let’s take a closer look at how to make a drill with your own hands.

To make a drill we will need the following tools:

• welding machine;
• angle grinder;
• drill with a set of drills for metal.

The design of the drill is extremely simple, it consists of:

• rods
• pens
• knives

Let's look at the manufacturing of all components and start with the simplest.

Making a rod

A rod is a metal rod or tube onto which the knives and handle are attached. Depending on the purpose for which you need the drill, you need to select the material for making the rod.

If you plan to use a drill to dig holes for seedlings or fence posts, then cutting a pipe or metal rod length from the floor to your chest(1-1.2 m).

If a drill is needed to make a well, then the rod will need to be upgraded. This is due to the fact that drilling must be carried out at great depths, so the system must be made with the ability to expand. Here are a few options on how you can do this:

• cut threads on rod sections and splice them, if necessary, using couplings. To prevent unauthorized unwinding, it is necessary to secure the connection with cotter pins;
• At one end of the rod, you can weld a nut, for example, 20M, and to the other rod, a 20M bolt. It is also necessary to provide the possibility of fixing threaded connection;
• take small pieces of pipe with a slightly larger diameter than the rod and weld them on one edge. A new rod is inserted into them and drilled through hole for bolted connection.

In this way you can prepare required amount connecting sections.

The drill should penetrate the soil easily, so bottom part needs to be made spicy. A more advanced version can be made by welding an old drill onto the bottom of the rod.

Handle and its features

To make a handle, you will need a piece of pipe approximately 40 cm long. Select a diameter such that when you wrap your hand around it, you can comfortably hold it.

Before attaching the handle, squeeze the top edge of the bar in a vice to give it an oval shape. Weld the handle perpendicular to the rod.

Knives

The most important part in a drill is the knives. Their design will determine how much labor it takes to make holes in the ground. The material from which they will be made must be hard and elastic.

Option 1. Sheet metal

The simplest drill knife can be made from a sheet of iron. To do this, you need to draw a circle on paper the size of the knife disk. Cut it out with scissors. The resulting template is applied to a metal plate and outlined with a marker.

Now you need to cut out the outlined circle from the metal. You can do this with a grinder and then finish the edges. Don't forget to make a hole in the central part for the rod.

So, the blank for the knife is cut out. The next step is to mark a sector on the prepared workpiece and cut it out. Sharpen the cutting surface and bend it down (approximately 30-40°).

All that remains is to weld the manufactured knife to the rod. You need to retreat approximately 10 cm from the bottom edge of the product.

Option 2. From a circular saw blade

A more advanced model can be made from an old circular saw blade. To do this, it must be sawed in half and the halves welded to the rod at an angle of 30-40° relative to each other. Please note that the teeth should be positioned in the direction of rotation of the drill. Such an improved unit will even allow you to cut roots of small diameter.

Did you know that the drill can be improved? To do this, you need to take a disk of small diameter and also cut it in half. Sharpen the edges and weld them parallel to the knife blades below on the rod. This device is called a subsoiler and allows you to crumble dense soil. You can make another ripper of a smaller diameter and install it even lower.

Option 3. Spiral drill

Making a spiral drill on your own is more difficult. However, you can look for items suitable for this purpose at metal collection points. For example, a fishing drill or an auger from agricultural machinery of a suitable diameter may be suitable. You just need to cut it to the required length, sharpen the edges and weld it to the rod. A spiral drill can be used when driving a water well.

Option 4. Spoon drill

The spoon drill is intended primarily for drilling wells under water with the simultaneous installation of casing pipe. To make it, you need to take a piece of pipe (approximately 70-100 cm) and make a slot along its length. You can weld an old drill in the lower part. The peculiarity of the spoon drill is that its attachment of the upper part to the rod is offset relative to the axis by approximately 10-15 mm. In this case, the welded drill and rod are coaxial. Thus, when drilling, the diameter of the well will be greater than the diameter of the drill itself.

All that remains is to sharpen the cutting edge as it rotates. The cut soil will remain inside the cylinder cavity and the drill must be periodically freed from the rock.

Hand drills can be used to drill holes in loose rocks, but this tool is not suitable in rocky areas. Of all listed options A spiral drill can handle small stones.

So, four are considered various options products that you can make yourself. The first two are more suitable for digging holes for posts and seedlings, the last two are more “specialized” for drilling wells for water. Which option is best for you - choose for yourself.

When building a house and landscaping a site, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing poles, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same holes, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required when constructing. These holes are made with a motorized or hand drill. There are plenty of them in stores, but many people prefer homemade ones: they are often more productive and reliable than factory-made products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are many of them.

Designs and Applications

Garden gardeners that are easier to make earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of homemade drills - they can be “sharpened” to specific conditions and it’s not just about the size - the blades can be made removable, bolted on, but also about the design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. They work well on “light” soils.” On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.

Making a garden drill

A garden auger is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:

This is a basic design, and there are many modifications to it. But let's first talk about what an earth drill can be made from.

Materials

As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4′ to 1.5′, profiled pipe can be taken from 20*20 mm to 35*35 mm.

Blade knives can be made from:

It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already ready. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the soil easier to cut.

The pick-drill is made from different materials- there are a lot of its designs. They just make a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of large diameter rod. The second option is to make something like a drill from the steel strip. And yet - a combination of these two.

Pike - one of the tip options

And finally - about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made from round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the circumference of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.

Knives and fastening method

First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. The shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30°.

After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of substantial diameter.

One rod can have several sets of cutting blades - for holes of different diameters

You will have to cut holes in the center of the disks themselves so that they fit more tightly to the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.

Sheet steel

If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper and use it to create a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - you will need to insert and weld a rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the chosen rod. The hole dimensions are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.

The edges should also be separated by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loams with a predominance of clay), the blades may collapse under load. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.

The blades bend due to the fact that unhardened steel is used, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and even if it is possible, it is unlikely to be bent.

From a saw blade

If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost ideal option. They use hardened steel, which is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, so it is sawed in half and these halves are placed at the required angle.

Such homemade drill for excavation work shows quite high productivity. Even used wheels have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.

Modifications

In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades are welded onto the rod. different sizes. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded; above, retreating a few centimeters, the large ones are welded. There can be three such tiers, maximum four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is physically very difficult to work.

If a drill is needed for shallow holes - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it is relatively light in weight and easy to work with. The working process is as follows: they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times, pulled it out, and poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep holes, you will suffer from carrying a small amount of soil from the depths. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded above the blades.

And all these are hand-made drills. All of them are highly efficient - it’s much easier to work than store-bought ones.

Auger drill

Due to the large number of turns, an auger auger creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden auger. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - for water, for the installation of underground probes for a heat pump, etc.

To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal disks. The number of disks is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut identically, a hole is cut in them in the center for the rod, as well as an identical sector - so that they can be welded.

The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer disks. The welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.

Drill for TISE piles

In the author's version, the TISE drill is a blade with an earth receiver and a folding wider blade, which forms an expansion at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife gets in the way. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the holes themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and for expansion, make a separate folding knife with an earth receiver. This makes the work easier and faster.

Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options

A cut-off shovel serves as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a herring can. The knife is fixed movably; when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is weakened, the blade begins to trim the sides of the hole, forming the necessary expansion.

The photo below shows the second version of a homemade drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more effective. The plow blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to a folding structure with bolted joints.

The dredger is made from an old propane tank. The collection of soil occurs from below, which is why the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.

This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must be constantly moistened with water.

Blueprints

The good thing about a self-made drill is that its design is “tailored” to its owner. During the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the sizes of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are arbitrary, they can and should be changed, adjusting them to the size of the required wells.

There is no point in making a serious structure for planting plants. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. Choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings as shown in the drawing. According to the markings, you will need to cut out two small fragments and saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).

If the ground is soft, conventional design doesn't work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an extended cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.

This drawing shows interesting design handles - it can be rearranged as the length of the bar increases.

Basic drawings of auger and garden auger

Both of these units work well, but the garden one has to be removed often, and the auger one is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.

Garden auger drawing

Video materials

Well drilling - the best way water supply suburban area in the absence of a central water supply line due to the low cost of work compared to well water supply and technological accessibility. These factors allow owners of individual plots to carry out drilling independently after they make a simple and inexpensive drill for a well with their own hands.

Exist various designs drilling devices for individual drilling, their choice depends on the composition of the soil on the site, the depth of the water layer, and the pumping equipment used for water intake in the future.

Studying the technology of individual drilling and methods of making drills with your own hands in the case of independent drilling work without the involvement of third-party specialists or commercial organizations, will help save homeowners not only financial resources, but also, if desired, earn money by providing similar services to local residents.

Several types of wells are used to collect water in the areas; when drilling independently, the maximum deepening threshold does not exceed 35 m, so they drill shallow wells and wells in the sand with their own hands. In this case, the drilling device performs two tasks: it forms a shaft in the ground, into which the casing is then lowered, and removes the soil, softened after drilling, out. Almost all methods additionally use water, which facilitates the passage and extraction of rock accumulated in the mine to the top.

For self-drilling use various technologies and several types of drills, the main of which are:

Screw (spiral). Auger drilling is the main type of well creation using the industrial method; installations for its implementation occupy a leading position in terms of prevalence and are used by organizations professionally involved in drilling technologies. During excavation, the drill is lowered to a considerable depth by extending it with rods, and excess soil is extracted out hydraulically using water.

A factory-made manual auger drill for a water well can be purchased in a retail chain to implement the screw method in living conditions They make a drill with their own hands using welding. With the dry method, they travel a distance of up to 10 m; with auger hydraulic drilling using water, the highest depths of about 35 m are achieved.

To facilitate the work being carried out, the rotation of the auger is often carried out using electrical construction tools - a hammer drill, a mixer, a gasoline saw, a gas cutter, a powerful grinder with special attachments. Many craftsmen assemble simple installations using electric motors with their own hands, which increase productivity and make drilling easier.

Needle-shaped. The needle method is based on impact technology, in which a metal pipe with a sharp tip is driven into the ground. During the passage, the following pipe sections are connected to the driving pipe, as a result of which it is possible to reach depths of about 15 m. For driving, a load with a large mass is used, which is periodically lifted and thrown onto a frame rigidly fixed to the pipe shell. The work requires intense physical effort; to facilitate driving, electrical tools are used - construction hammers, jackhammers, and the load is lowered and lifted using a manual or electric winch.

With the needle method, the soil is not removed to the surface, but is compacted in the borehole channel, which limits the depth of immersion in the case of dense underground rock with a high clay content. In addition to the low depth, the disadvantages of needle technology include the small diameter of the passage channel due to the small overall dimensions of the needle, which becomes quite difficult to drive into the ground manually with a larger radius.

Spoon. The technology is designed for drilling in dry sandy soil of low density; its operating principle is to collect softened rock in a chamber like a glass and then extract it to the surface together with the drill. Since a cylindrical container in the form of a pipe section, a cylinder, has a capacious chamber for collecting soil, wide channels usually pass through this method into which standard casing columns can be installed.

The excavation technique using a glass is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming due to the fact that it is periodically removed outside to free it from the collected earth. If the depth of the water layer is high, the entire system with the assembled pipeline has to be dismantled to the top during each treatment, which significantly increases the time required for the work. Also, periodic removal of heavy soil and interconnected metal rods from great depths by hand is physically difficult, so this technique, with maximum labor costs, is designed to cover distances of up to 10 m, and the optimal depth of the passage channel is no more than 6 m.

Zhelonki. The operating principle of the bailer used for cleaning wells is based on lowering a cylindrical container into the well channel, at the end of which a check valve system is installed. Water is poured into the shaft, as a result of which the soil turns into liquid mud; it enters the bailer through a check valve, which opens when immersed. When lifting, the valve closes as a result of the pressure on its surface from the mud mass, blocking the exit of the collected rock; after extraction, the liquid soil is poured out, and the process is repeated again.

Developed using a bailer industrial technology cable-percussion drilling, in which a massive structure with check valve, after collecting the liquid rock, it is removed. In domestic drilling using this technology, significant penetration depths of up to 30 m are achieved, however, it takes considerable time to cover such distances.

When drilling wells, they often combine various methods, for example, it is practical to use a bailer at great depths, so the initial section is passed with an auger drill, and then the pipe with the valve is thrown into the shaft from a greater height, which increases the efficiency of its use.

The advantages of self-hand drilling

Manual drilling with self-made devices has the following advantages over automatic drilling methods using special drilling equipment by individuals and organizations:

Cheapness. Making a drill with your own hands from scrap materials and drilling a well without the involvement of third-party assistants, specialists, or organizations is the most profitable option from a financial point of view if other methods of employment in your free time do not bring monetary income.

Versatility. Independent manual drilling work is universal due to the following features:

• Manual drilling in many situations is the only possible option carrying out work if it is impossible for special equipment to enter the site or the well is located in a constructed room.
• Manually laying narrow borehole channels without the use of casing strings standard diameter, which significantly reduces the cost of organizing and equipping water supply on an individual site.
• Drilling is carried out manually to a depth of 5 to 35 m, which corresponds to the characteristics of an Abyssinian and sand well.
• The drill made can be used for other economic purposes, if it is necessary to make holes in the ground - when constructing fences, planting garden plants, installation of pile foundations and other household works. If it is no longer needed, the structure can always be disassembled and used on the farm at your own discretion.

Flexibility of application. Depending on the depth of the water layer, the quality of the soil and dimensional parameters borehole channel, use various drilling technologies, designs of drilling devices or combinations thereof. With individual manufacturing, there is always the opportunity, through experimentation, to independently make a drill for a well, the most convenient and effective for specific conditions.

Work can be carried out at any time convenient for the owner, without reference to the season, time of day, weather, hired specialists or organizations. If electricity is not supplied to the area being developed, manual mechanically you can drill wells without her presence.

Of course, for cheap manual method you will have to pay with the speed of work and intense physical labor, the latter to some extent useful from the point of view of improving health.

Methods for connecting drill pipes

To drill long distances, the drill is extended under water using hollow steel pipes of standard diameters 21.3, 26.8 and 33.5 mm with a length of 1500 to 2000 mm, which are connected to each other in the following ways:

Threaded. In this technology, for connection, an external thread is used, which is cut at one pipe end, and an internal thread on transition couplings, which are short cylindrical sections with a diameter corresponding to the lower point of the pipe thread notch. Cutting is carried out manually using dies using die holders according to the old Soviet method or more modern ones. convenient devices- in grains. After threading inner side transition couplings and the outer shell of the pipes at one end, a coupling is welded to their other edge, the extension is carried out by screwing subsequent pipes into the couplings of the previous ones.

Bolt and threaded coupling. With this method, a large diameter bolt is welded to one end of the pipe, and a long nut in the form of a coupling with an internal thread corresponding to the external thread of the bolt is welded to the other, and when connecting the pipe elements, they are screwed onto each other until they stop. The technology is reminiscent of joining factory-produced drill rods; factory connecting heads can be welded or screwed to threads instead of bolts and couplings.

Pin. Joining pipes using a pin is the most optimal method, providing high speed connection and disassembly of extension rods, to implement this, an internal coupling is welded to one side of each pipe, the next pipe is put on it and holes are drilled in them at some distance from the edge. Then a pin is inserted into the through channel of the two joined pipes, preventing them from being separated.

The disadvantage of pin fastening is the possibility of falling out of the holes; the easiest way to eliminate this disadvantage is to use it for fastening threaded bolt with nut. Is it true, this decision ineffective for a quick connection; moreover, when used in the ground, the threads are constantly clogged with dirt, which significantly slows down the assembly and disassembly of the extension pipeline. It is more effective to use a pin with a lock, which is a rotating plate embedded in its end, similar to the design used for assembling scaffolding. But this system also has the disadvantage of using individual elements that can be lost; also, when the extension rod pipes rotate in hard soil, there is a high probability of deformation and damage to the weakened pin ends with limiting plates.

The best method for solving pin joint problems is to use special design, in which a U-shaped plate with an inserted pin is welded to the pipe opposite the through hole, and a restrictive pin is inserted into its body through a through radial channel. The limiter prevents the pin from being lost and falling out of the assembly, and is also an element with the help of which the pin is moved along the through hole, connecting and disconnecting the pipeline. Also, the outer U-shaped steel plate protects the pin and stop from damage when rotating in the ground.

If the above design seems too complicated to be manufactured at home, a good option is to purchase a factory-made pin for attaching soil drills, which is a bolt with smooth walls, in the head of which a hole is drilled and a rigid wire stop is inserted, which goes around the pipe and is put on on the other side to the end of a smooth-walled bolt.

Preparing for independent drilling

Before making a drill for, the following factors should be determined:

• Estimated depth of the water basin. If the water layer is located at a depth of no more than 10 m, the well can be awakened by any of the 4 methods above. For water intake with a surface electric pump, a small channel cross-section is sufficient, so it is more rational and simpler to use driving technology using a needle drill or screw penetration with a small diameter drill. If you plan to use a submersible pump in a column of standard casing pipes, a bailer or spoon-type structure is made. For drilling to great depths, as well as to shallow ones, there are no competitors to auger hydraulic drilling in terms of speed and efficiency; the use of the shock-rope method with a bailer or a spoon drill is significantly inferior in time to auger drilling using water and may turn out to be economically unprofitable due to high physical activity and significant loss of time.
• Well diameter. For water intake from depths greater than 9 m from the surface level, you will need to use submersible electric pump, requiring the use of large diameter casing, in this case drilling can be carried out by any of the above methods. An effective option for sinking clay structures is to use drilling in the casing, in which water is poured into it, and the soil in the form of liquid mud is extracted out with a bailer or spoon device.

Manufacturing of borehole drills

After determining the drilling method, they begin to independently manufacture a drilling device; for this you will need:

• Household welding machine with steel electrodes.
• Angle grinder for cutting metal.
• Cuttings of steel plates, pipes, used discs for stone, concrete, wood for making a drill.
• Pipes 1500 - 2000 mm long for lowering the drill to a depth, a thread-cutting unit with dies, adapter couplings purchased or prepared for threading.
• Durable steel cables, tripods, homemade winches for lowering and lifting loads, bailers, spoon devices into the borehole.
• Power tools to speed up drilling operations - hammer drill, drill, jackhammer.

Auger or spiral drill

A factory-made auger drill is a piece of metal rod or pipe, around which a steel strip is welded in a spiral, and at the end there is a pointed tip. The spiral-shaped tape breaks off near the tip and has a different number of turns; during operation, soil falls into the space between the turns and when the auger is removed, it is thrown onto the surface of the area.

It is quite difficult to make such a device at home due to the great difficulties in bending a steel strip about 2 mm thick into a spiral with a small radius, so they use a simplified design of an auger drill, consisting of a small number of turns. The best option is to make a homemade screw drill for a well with your own hands from used metal disks for the Bulgarian. To do this proceed as follows:

• Take a segment metal pipe with a standard outer diameter of 21.3 mm, a pre-prepared tip is attached to its end; it can be a pointed steel plate cut in the shape of a triangle, the tip of a spear, or a ribbon spiral. The tip is fixed by welding, if a multifunctional design with a change of tip is intended to be used, it is inserted into the cut of a pipe or steel pin, then bolted through the through holes.

• A standard disc for an angle grinder has a mounting diameter of 22.2 mm, when used as work surface The drill is cut in the radial direction from the edge to the center and the edges are moved in different directions at an angle of 30 degrees so that a fragment of a spiral is obtained. Wherein inner diameter When bending, the disk slightly decreases and ensures mating with the outer diameter of the pipe of 21.3 with a small gap sufficient to accommodate the metal from the electrode with an inner rod diameter of about 5 mm. As a spiral fragment (disc), used steel circles for cutting stone, concrete, and wood with a serrated edge with a standard outer diameter of 115 mm are used; sometimes 1 or 2 discs are additionally welded, providing a larger excavation.
• At the end of the auger drill pipe, a thread is cut or a threaded coupling is welded to it for connection with subsequent pipes; due to its small diameter, a through hole for the handle is not drilled in the longitudinal direction, but this operation is carried out with sections of pipes that will lengthen the structure.

Note: A homemade spiral drill of small diameter is used for the fastest mechanical penetration of a borehole channel in hydraulic drilling, while water is supplied to the tip of the drill through a system of extension steel pipes, which are connected to each other by threads using couplings.

Needle

The needle drill is designed for forming narrow and shallow borehole channels; it is often left in the well, which determines the technology for its independent production. A needle borehole drill and penetration is done in the following way:

• Take thick-walled steel pipe 1500 - 2000 mm long, a pointed metal tip of a tetrahedral, conical shape is welded at one end (you can use a peak from a hammer drill) and a series of holes are drilled in the walls for water access to a length of about 1500 - 2000 mm from the tip. On the other side, a pipe section of a smaller diameter (internal coupling) is inserted into the pipe to connect to the next pipe and secured by welding.
• A rigid clamp is fixed on the surface of the first pipe, onto which a load is then periodically lowered and moved along the pipe surface - as a result, the needle is driven into the ground. After lowering the joint point near the surface of the earth, the pipes to be connected are welded from the outside, the clamp is moved higher along with the load onto the next pipe. Sometimes they use welded externally to the casing pipe metal plate, which is struck with a load, after lowering to the required distance, the shock pipe is removed, replaced with a casing one, and the process is repeated further.
• Upon completion of the work, the pipeline is cut at the required distance from the ground, a thread is cut at the end and an electric pump is connected through the adapter couplings, while steel pipeline at the same time it is a casing column and a pressure hose supplying water.

A hand drill is necessary for construction when repair work. In addition, it is often used when working in the garden or vegetable garden. Using this item, it is very convenient and quick to dig deep and narrow holes that are needed for planting trees or for installing supports during the process of pouring the foundation. In addition, the drill cannot be replaced with any other tool when drilling wells. Few people know that you can make a manual post drill yourself, saving a significant amount of money. Everything you need to make this an indispensable tool, - This detailed instructions, describing how to make a drill, the availability of the necessary materials, tools and, of course, patience.

Using a hand auger, it is convenient to dig narrow holes for posts or planting trees.

It should be noted that the use of a hand drill is not intended for soil with stone impurities. The soil should have a clay or loamy base. In this case, the drill, as a rule, is made from high-quality materials. In this case, its service life may be unlimited.

Materials and tools

Before you begin, you need to make sure that you have all the materials and tools available. It will be much more convenient to work if everything you need is at hand.
In order to do this, you need to have:

• welding machine;
• welding clamps;
• Bulgarian women with cutting disc for iron;
• electric drills;
• pairs of gas keys;
• dies, the diameter of which must match the diameter of the rod;
• die holder;
• vice.

Materials for making a drill: grinder disc, drill, pipes.

As practice shows, application in in this case simple cutting inserts with sufficient large diameter, is unable to give the desired effect. A hand drill made from such material will take away your energy and time in the process of drilling earth holes. In order to avoid such a result, professionals recommend supplementing such a tool with two shortened pre-rippers. In this case, a hand-made drill, made with your own hands, will be much more effective, and working with it will take noticeably less time.

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Device

A hand drill consists of the following elements:

1. Pen.
2. Insert.
3. Cutting attachment.
4. Clutch.
5. Bolt with nut.
6. Cutting blades.
7. Guide rod.
8. Blade.

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Manufacturing of pre-rippers

As for the worm version of the tool, making it yourself is quite difficult. Taking this into account, it is possible to replace the stepped auger with two welded pre-rippers having an increasing diameter of the cutting material. In this case, the soil resistance is evenly distributed over the steps, and the amount of force applied for one revolution of the drilling device around its axis is noticeably reduced.

The purpose of the first pre-ripper is to crumble dense soil, then cut a wider radius of the hole and supply the already loosened soil to the surface of the disk ripper.

The disk ripper performs the function of forming the walls of the hole, as well as pushing part of the soil upward. During one such process, the depth of the dug well can reach 40-50 cm. In the case of a large load, working with a hand drill will be quite difficult.

A good material for making pre-rippers can be a car spring, the thickness of which is at least 5 mm.

To sharpen the cutting edge of such a ripper, it is necessary to maintain a certain angle. This element should be butt welded to the main rod, after which you can begin welding the next section of the rod. The next step is to attach the second pre-ripper element to it (end-to-end). Finally, all that remains is to weld the sharp part of the rod. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the ratio of all segments, since otherwise backlash may occur.

As for the disk, the function of which is to form the walls of the hole, for its manufacture it is recommended to use processed circular saw designed for woodworking. Its thickness must be at least 3 mm. The disk is cut into two equal parts, after which its cut edges need to be sharpened. The next step is to weld the resulting pair of elements onto the main rod, while maintaining the same angle. In this way, you will be able to avoid displacement of forces, as a result of which the dug wells may turn out crooked.

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Threading

At the opposite end of the rod it is necessary to cut a thread onto which the coupling will subsequently be screwed. For this purpose you will need a vice and a special die. Clamp the barbell (end up) in a strong vise, maintaining a right angle. In this case, it is recommended to monitor the protrusion of the rod, which should not exceed 10 cm. Otherwise, completely undesirable depreciation may occur at the moment when the die is subjected to pressure. Using a file, grind the end to form a cone. This will guarantee that the die will sit correctly and evenly on the bar. After this, you can begin cutting work.

There is nothing complicated in the thread cutting process. The die holder rotates slowly clockwise. If a die gets stuck during work, twist it and sharpen the interfering burr. After this, screw the die back onto the finished part of the thread and continue cutting to the planned mark. The most optimal thread is considered to be 10 cm long.

The next step is to screw a coupling onto the thread, which is welded onto the main rod in the area of ​​the connecting seam. At this point, you can safely assume that you have completed the main part of making a hand drill with your own hands.

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Making a pen

The handle or rotating part of the hand drill is welded strictly at right angles in a T-shape. The main bar itself can have a length of 40 to 50 cm. The recommended width of the handle should be no more than shoulder width. The fact is that the rod's resistance to rotational force is limited. If it is exceeded, the rod may twist, as a result of which the hand-held pole drill will become unsuitable for work. In order to avoid such troubles, limit the effort and gradually drill the ground in moderate parts.

Before you start welding, secure the handle to the rod using a welding clamp, making sure the corners are straight. This way you will not only save correct angle, but you will also be sure that the handle will not move to the side. The weld should be along the end side of the main rod. At this stage you should work as carefully as possible. It is worth considering that the reliability and service life of the future drill depend on the quality of this joint. Since the seam takes on all the stress, don’t skimp on the electrodes.

The uneven joints are ground down using a grinder; this will not only give the tool a more aesthetic appearance, but will also eliminate cuts on your hands that you can get while using a hand drill. Having welded the handle, a connecting thread is cut at the other end of the main rod in the same way as the previous one.

One of the common problems that plagues summer residents is high level groundwater. And coupled with high water, which inevitably appears after heavy rains or melting snow, this brings a lot of trouble.

Prolonged drying of the soil, dampness and fungus on the walls, increased heaving of the soil, destroyed foundations - this is not a complete list of problems. A drainage well is one of the simplest ways to solve these problems. Moreover, you can drill it with your own hands without any problems.

Why does the site need drainage?

In simple terms, water that falls on the ground in the form of precipitation seeps through the soil and goes into aquifers.

The speed of this process is influenced by two factors:

• groundwater level (GWL);
• soil type.

If the soil is sandy or loose, the water will drain quickly. And if it’s clayey, then slowly. At the same time, it accumulates in the so-called lenses, increasing the ground level. In this case, problems cannot be avoided.

If the soil is not clayey, the water drains quickly. And there may not be any problems with high water. However, often the waterproof layer is located close to the surface. In this case, although not constantly, the water will also stagnate on the surface.

In addition to problems with dampness and flooded basements, high water poses another danger. This is an increase in the heaving of the earth. As you know, in winter liquid freezes and expands. Moreover, such pressure is created inside the soil that it can destroy the foundation of the house. Therefore, the sooner the issue of drainage of perched water from the site is resolved, the better. It is for this purpose that drainage wells are drilled on it.

Groundwater

How drainage works

The main task in the fight against perched water is to help it pass the waterproof layer as quickly as possible. This is exactly what drainage wells do. The operating principle is very simple. A hole is made in the ground to a depth of several meters and through it moisture leaves the soil.

The well must meet two conditions:

1. It must completely pass through the first waterproof layer of soil;
2. You cannot reach the aquifer.

Those. When the clay layer is passed through, the drilling work ends. If you reach the aquifer, moisture from the site will flow into it. And in a place with her, in clean water all the dirt washed away from the top layer of soil will fall in. Which will not be very good, because... Wells and drinking wells are fed from these layers.

Well placement diagram

Naturally, one drainage well per site is not enough. Moreover, they can be divided into several types:

• to lower the groundwater level;
• to protect foundations;
• to protect the root system of trees from excessive moisture.

To protect buildings, drainage is located near the foundations, throughout the rest of the site - in places of greatest accumulation of moisture. To avoid excessive drying of the soil, holes located in gardens and vegetable gardens are made smaller in depth.

Typically, the number of points required for a site is calculated based on the depth of the wells. It is believed that the area that one point effectively covers is equal to the area of ​​a circle whose radius is equal to the depth of that point.

For example, if there is a drainage with a depth of 6 m, then its working area is calculated using the formula for the area of ​​a circle. Those. it is equal to 38m2.

Well layout

Well drilling

There is no specific figure that would be suitable for any site and determine to what depth it is necessary to drill. Therefore, for each specific case, it is determined by location, usually 4-10 meters. Although there may be more.

Ideally, exploratory drilling is carried out first, on the basis of which a soil map is drawn up and drainage points are calculated.

For drilling, you can use special equipment. This option will be the fastest, but not the cheapest. Therefore, for self-drilling, the following methods are most often used:

1. Rope-percussion.
2. Hand drill.

If the point is made close to buildings, it is not recommended to use the rope-impact method. Vibration from impacts can damage the foundation.

Percussion drilling

In this case, the drainage well at high groundwater done using a bailer. The bailer is a piece of thick-walled pipe 1-2 meters high. At the bottom there is a valve for collecting soil, at the top there is a fastener for the cable, and on the sides there are windows for removing soil.

To drill wells, the bailer is suspended on a cable and dropped into a hole in the ground. As a result of the impact, soil is forced inside the pipe, after which it is removed and cleaned.

Most convenient to use lifting mechanism so as not to remove the bailer from the pit manually. Because You need to make a lot of effort to get the difficult pipe, the weight of which is added to the mass of the earth being removed. As a lift, you can use a high tripod, to which a rotating mechanism is connected through a system of blocks.

Sequencing:

• It is most convenient to do the initial deepening with a hand drill;
• when the hole is deep enough, a lift is installed above it, and a bailer is connected with a strong cable;
• it is inserted into the edge of the well and released into free fall;
• then it needs to be raised 1-2 meters and released again. Repeat this several times;
• after this, the bailer is taken to the surface and cleaned.

Thus, you drill a drainage well with your own hands. But this method has its limitations. For example, drilling a well in sandy soil can only be done with a casing pipe.

Bailer with lifting mechanism

Drainage arrangement

First of all, a site plan is made with the approximate location of drainage points. After this, you need to calculate the amount of materials needed. To construct a well you need:

• crushed stone or expanded clay with which the hole will be filled;
• casing plastic or asbestos pipes or polypropylene fabric with wooden slats.

The walls of the well must be protected from silting. Therefore, you need to decide in advance on the arrangement method. Because The cost and timing of the work depends on this.

Options:

• use of casing pipes;
• hand-made protective bag made of polypropylene fabric.

Both options have their place and do their job well. The principle of operation is the same. A well is drilled to the required depth, its walls are protected with water-conducting material, and crushed stone or expanded clay is poured inside. In this case, the diameter of the point does not matter much.

Arrangement sequence:

1. Using a hand drill or bailer, a hole of the required depth is made. Usually it is no more than 10 meters. As drilling progresses, you need to control the composition of the soil reached by the drill. After the first waterproof layer has been passed, you need to go down another 1-2 meters. It is important not to miss the moment and not reach the aquifer.
2. When the hole is made, you need to arrange the walls. If the option with a pipe is chosen, it is simply lowered into the well 15-20 cm below ground level. First, holes are drilled in it along the entire plane.
3. If you choose the fabric option, it will be a little more complicated. You will need wooden slats along the length of the well. Fabric is nailed to them so as to form an improvised pipe. To make your work easier, you can make several rings from thick wire to use as guides.
4. The resulting structure is lowered into the ground and covered with crushed stone. It performs two functions. Firstly, it prevents the walls from collapsing, and secondly, it filters all the water passing through it.
5. After this, the well is covered with any waterproof material. You can use a piece of polyethylene or something else - it makes no difference. It is important that the top is sealed.
6. The structure is covered with earth.

This completes the construction of the drainage well. Depending on the depth and complexity of the soil, all work takes 1-2 days.

Other drainage systems

Considering the time it takes to produce one point and the physical costs, we can conclude that this option is suitable for small plots. If the area to be drained is large, other methods are used.

Drainage systems are made, which include channels with special pipes, and collectors for water collection. A drainage network is laid throughout the entire territory. In this case, it makes sense to involve specialists who can make a soil map and correctly calculate drainage.

Making complex systems on your own is not entirely advisable. Because it is required to carry out exploration drilling work, as well as make calculations that require at least special knowledge. In addition, it is advisable to use special equipment - making such systems manually is too time-consuming and expensive.

Drainage system on site

Thus, making a system of drainage wells in a small area is not so difficult. The main thing is to do this on time and not let the water run high. In general, experts recommend doing drainage system even before the start construction work. Otherwise, the foundations of buildings may cause deep subsidence. If you close your eyes to this problem, flooded basements, dampness on the walls and rotting of garden crops are guaranteed.