Chrysanthemum globulus care at home. Location of Korean chrysanthemums

The perennial chrysanthemum decorates front gardens, parks and flower beds from mid-summer right up to frost and is rightfully considered the queen autumn garden, because its flowering continues even when, after the first frost, other flowers have already withered. The variety of colors and subtle aroma with a slight bitterness amazes with its sophistication, as well as the combination of notes of joyful summer and sad autumn.

Planting and growing in open ground

Breeders are constantly working on developing new varieties, achieving large-flowered species, however, gardeners prefer to grow Korean small-flowered chrysanthemums, since they have high decorative qualities and resistance to low temperatures.

In addition, Korean chrysanthemums look good in the garden in combination with other flower crops and are famous for their long and abundant flowering. To decorate your home, chrysanthemum can also be grown in pots, and when cut, it is ideal for creating bouquet arrangements, since it can stand for up to 30 days without losing its decorative qualities.

Appropriate place

Garden chrysanthemum under no circumstances cannot be planted in areas where there is stagnation of water(rain, melt or after watering). Also these flowers do not like too shaded places: their stems elongate greatly, become brittle and thin, the flowers become much smaller, bloom too late or do not bloom at all.

Therefore, when choosing a place to plant chrysanthemums, you should pay attention to open, well-lit areas. It is also worth considering that strong winds negatively affect the development of this crop, so it is necessary to grow chrysanthemums in the garden in protected places.

Soil composition

Chrysanthemums are very demanding regarding the composition of the soil. They grow well in slightly acidic and neutral soils. Wherein the soil should be well-drained, loose and rich in organic nutrients.

If an area suitable for illumination has infertile or dense soil, measures must be taken to improve the soil before planting flowers. To improve water permeability, you can use coarse and thoroughly washed river sand.

To increase fertility, add peat, compost or rotted manure to the soil at the rate of 1 bucket of organic matter/1 m2 of planting.

Korean chrysanthemums are a species of hybrid origin; their varieties differ in the flowering period, the height of the bush, the size of the inflorescences, and the coloring of the reed and tubular flowers. Korean chrysanthemum is grown well even in the middle zone of our country.

Types and varieties of Korean chrysanthemum.

Based on the size of the inflorescences, these chrysanthemums are divided into 2 groups: small-flowered - inflorescences 10 cm in diameter and large-flowered - more than 10 cm in diameter.

Small-flowered Korean chrysanthemums are: single-row and double-row; semi-double Korean chrysanthemums; anemone-shaped Korean chrysanthemums; pompom Korean chrysanthemums; double Korean chrysanthemums.

By height, Korean chrysanthemums are divided into: low-growing up to 30 cm in height, medium-growing - 50 cm, tall - about 1 m.

Border Korean chrysanthemums.

Their height is 30 cm. These chrysanthemums are characterized by early period flowering, dense spherical bush, small root shoots.

Variety "Malchish-Kibalchish". The bush is 28 cm tall, the diameter is about 60 cm. A very profusely flowering bush, single inflorescences (chamomile), lilac-pinkish in color.

The size of the inflorescences is 7 cm. This variety does not produce root shoots; the entire vegetative mass grows on almost one central shoot.

For decorative effect This chrysanthemum needs pinching. Flowering occurs at the end of July and lasts 30-35 days. Looks great in border plantings, around apple tree circles, along the path.

Medium-sized Korean chrysanthemums.

Their height is 50 cm. Among these chrysanthemums there are plants of different colors with semi-double, non-double and double inflorescences.

"Amber". Chrysanthemum 50 cm tall. Dense bush. Double inflorescences, bright yellow color. The flower is 7 cm in size. It grows well and produces root shoots.

"Evening lights"The plant is 35 cm high, the diameter of the bush is the same. Compact bush ik. The inflorescences are red, with a yellow ring around the center, non-double (chamomile).

A bright, abundantly flowering variety of Korean chrysanthemum. The size of the inflorescences is 5 cm in diameter, flowering lasts a month. Almost no root shoots are formed.

All chrysanthemums that belong to the medium-sized group can be used in flower beds and group plantings. Unlike curb Korean chrysanthemums, many varieties of this group are also used for cutting.

Tall Korean chrysanthemums.

Their height is 1 m. Chrysanthemums of this group are characterized by a well-developed bush, late flowering and largest size inflorescences.

"Alyonushka" - Compact bush 50 cm tall. Inflorescences are single, chamomile-shaped, bright pink, 5 cm in diameter. "Alyonushka" blooms in September.

"Pearl" - Erect bushes, closed, 50 cm tall. Semi-double inflorescences, white. Flowering occurs in July.

"Orange Sunset". The plant is 75 cm high and the diameter of the bush is 40 cm. The bush is compact. The inflorescence is double, brown-red, size - 10 cm.

The flowering of Korean chrysanthemums is long, and when removing faded flowers early varieties can bloom for more than 4 months.

Location of Korean chrysanthemums.

Chrysanthemum is a demanding plant. For better development and decorative, they need a warm, well-lit place. These plants do not tolerate soaking and do not grow in the shade.

The soil.

It should be moisture-permeable, loose, rich in organic matter. To have such soil, it must be fertilized with compost. It is best to plant these plants in high beds to avoid stagnant water.

Planting Korean chrysanthemums.

Usually planting material Chrysanthemums are purchased in the form of cuttings. Cuttings are planted in May, after the last frosts have passed. It is better to plant Korean chrysanthemums in the spring than in the fall. Planting and replanting chrysanthemums should be carried out with a clod of earth, without throwing it off the roots.

Very important point– chrysanthemums do not like to be disturbed late, this affects winter hardiness. But they still sell them in the fall. Maybe this is what causes unexpected attacks and bad conclusions about sellers.

Try planting chrysanthemums in the spring, relying on "safe" beliefs that the chrysanthemum is the color you want.

Do not plant chrysanthemums that bloom in late autumn. This landing will lead to death. If, nevertheless, you purchased planting material in late autumn, it is better to open ground don't leave. To overwinter chrysanthemums, you need a dry basement with above-zero temperatures; Korean chrysanthemums cannot tolerate dampness in winter.

Caring for Korean chrysanthemums.

They can grow in one place for no more than 3 years. Drought resistant. Chrysanthemums like to be mulched. Mulch can prevent pathogens of fungal diseases living in the soil from reaching the chrysanthemum during watering.

Pine needles are very good for this purpose. Shredded pine bark is also suitable for mulching.

Chrysanthemums grow very quickly. In such a short time, a small cutting produces a powerful bush that manages to bloom and finish its growing season in the fall. Therefore, chrysanthemums need additional feeding.

The first fertilizing should be nitrogen fertilizers as soon as the cuttings take root and begin to grow. The next feeding of chrysanthemums is 15 days later, with bird droppings. During budding, it is advisable to feed Korean chrysanthemums with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Some chrysanthemums begin to produce buds almost immediately after planting. They need to be cut off and the small bush allowed to gain strength.

Pinching should be done in June. It will help the chrysanthemum form a bush and promote more luxuriant flowering. We must remember that the period between the last pinching of chrysanthemums and the beginning of flowering is 30 days.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom lushly in September. But some varieties can be early and later. For example, border chrysanthemums bloom first. And in early October - tall varieties.

When the first frosts come and all the greenery withers, chrysanthemums need to be pruned. Pruning Korean chrysanthemums can be high or low. When stable frosty weather sets in, chrysanthemum bushes are covered with spruce branches.

If there is no spruce branches, chrysanthemums can be covered with any branches. But the cover should not be dense. Otherwise, the plants will scorch. Before covering Korean chrysanthemums, you need to hill up the bushes with earth or peat and sand. After winter, chrysanthemums will begin to grow; last year’s remains of stems must be removed immediately.

Heat-loving cut terry late varieties on winter time dig up and store in a cool place. The temperature there should be +2 – +6°C, and the humidity should not exceed 80%.

Diseases and pests.

Among the diseases of chrysanthemums, the most common are fungal diseases. Of these, various spots are dangerous, for example, black and white spotting, as well as stem rot, rust mushrooms.

These diseases appear when wrong conditions cultivation - with excess moisture, on heavy soils, low temperatures.

Chrysanthemums are also affected by greenhouse pests. Big problem represent nematodes. Chemical control are not very effective against these pests. Chrysanthemums are affected by aphids. Modern drugs help control the spread of aphids.

Propagation of Korean chrysanthemums.

Cuttings and dividing the bush.

Using Korean chrysanthemums.

There are few flowering plants in autumn, so chrysanthemums are an interesting and attractive crop. In addition, chrysanthemums with their beautiful foliage and variety of colors look great in garden beds, flower beds, borders, and thrive in container plantings. Cut chrysanthemums can be stored for up to 30 days.

Chrysanthemums are delicate and surprisingly unpretentious autumn flowers that decorate the garden and delight the eye right up to the snow. Caring for chrysanthemums is simple - planting, watering, fertilizing, but there are some points you need to know so that your flowers show their brightest colors.

There are more than 650 varieties of chrysanthemums, which are divided into 13 groups according to the type and shape of the inflorescence. But, despite such an abundance of varieties, caring for them differs little.

Let's start by choosing a landing site. Chrysanthemums love warmth and bright sun. This does not mean that they will not bloom in partial shade, but the flowering will not be as lush and bright. In addition, these flowers are very sensitive to photoperiodism, that is, the alternation of dark night and have a bright day very important for them. Therefore, you should not plant them next to garden lanterns. The rhythm of the plant may be disrupted, and flowering may not occur.

The soil for chrysanthemums should be loose and moist, as root system these flowers are very branched, but are located close to the surface, and insufficient watering leads to the death of the roots, and hence the weakening of the plant. However, it’s not worth overfilling. The soil should be loosened carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Adult plants are fed throughout the season. For the first time in the spring, immediately after the appearance of the first leaves, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to increase the green mass and growth of stems, the second time - during the period of bud formation, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. You can add mullein from time to time if the soil is poor, but you shouldn’t get carried away. Amateur gardeners say that it is better to underfill manure than to overfill it. This good fertilizer, and is ideal for chrysanthemums, but get the concentration wrong and the plant will die.

Chrysanthemum propagation

Chrysanthemum does not throw out seeds well, but it shares its root shoots well. Usually these shoots are divided in April-May, when there is no danger of frost. At the same time, the adult plant is transplanted to a new location. More than three It is not recommended to keep the chrysanthemum in one place for years, otherwise it will weaken and bloom worse.

Reproduction by shoots

Dig up a bush, shake off the soil, and you will see many young shoots on the roots.

Using pruning shears or scissors, separate them from the parent plant, dig a small trench, fertilize it with peat and rotted manure, and plant these shoots in a row directly in the ground or in peat cups.

At first, it is better to shade the sprouts with cloth or dark film. Don't forget about regularly moistening the soil. When the sprouts have taken root well, you need to pinch, leaving 4 leaves on the sprout.

This is necessary for the growth of side shoots. When side shoots grow back, you need to pinch them.

You shouldn’t do more than two pinchings; you can overdo it, and the plant simply won’t have time to throw out buds and bloom.

Large bouquet chrysanthemums are grown in one or three stems. At the same time, the side shoots are regularly plucked, leaving the straightest and strongest ones.

Ball chrysanthemum (multiflora) does not need pinching; nature itself and decades of work by breeders have already taken care of this. Reproduces ball chrysanthemum cuttings.

Propagation by cuttings

It happens that you were given a bouquet of incredibly beautiful chrysanthemums, and you want to plant exactly the same ones in your flower garden, but you don’t know the name of the variety. How can we be here? With chrysanthemums, everything is simple - wait until the flowers in the bouquet begin to fade, cut the stem into 10–12 cm cuttings, and place them in a jar of water.

To disinfect water, place in a jar Activated carbon, for 0.5 liters of water - 1 tablet of coal. You can wait for the roots to appear in the jar or plant the cuttings in a peat mixture. To quickly form roots, you can use “Kornevin”. Although the chrysanthemum does not particularly need it, and normal conditions roots appear within two weeks.

Wintering

Chrysanthemums are frost-resistant plants, with the exception of greenhouse bouquet varieties, so if you have ordinary garden small-flowered chrysanthemums, there is no need to dig up the bushes for the winter. But still, they cannot be left as is; be sure to insulate the roots. After the last flower has faded, we cut off the stem with pruning shears, leaving stumps 10–15 centimeters above the ground, mulch the ground with peat and rotten leaves, and completely cover the plant with this mixture. The top can be covered with straw or spruce branches. Do not use film under any circumstances; the roots of the plant may simply rot and rot.

If you still decide to play it safe and not leave flowers in the open ground, then take care of the place where you will store the bush in the winter. This should be a dark room where the temperature will not exceed +4...+6 °C, with moderate humidity. Dig up the plant with a clod of soil, wrap the root damp cloth, put it in a box, cover it with a cloth on top. Check on them regularly and make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.

It can be very disappointing when you have been caring for a chrysanthemum all summer, waiting for autumn to enjoy its beauty, but cold autumn with night frosts breaks all hopes, and the buds remain unopened.

In this case, you need not to delay, but immediately dig up the bush, transplant it into a suitable pot and bring it into the house. Then the chrysanthemum blooms and throws out more and more flowers, and so on until the New Year.

But you need to stop in time and still give the plant a rest and gain strength for the next flowering. That is, cut off all the branches, cover it well and take it out to unheated room for "hibernation".

Chrysanthemum is the oldest ornamental plant known to mankind. The legendary Confucius wrote about these amazing flowers. And the Japanese created a real cult from chrysanthemum. Wearing robes with the image sacred flower only members of the ruling dynasty of the land of the rising sun could.

In Europe, growing garden perennial chrysanthemums became fashionable only in the 19th century. The luxurious plant instantly gained popularity and well-deserved love from gardeners.

Types of delicate flower

IN climatic conditions In our country, perennial hybrids and annual chrysanthemums, familiar to gardeners under the general name “Korean (or Chinese) chrysanthemum,” are mainly used for breeding. What's good about this view?

• It is resistant to cold
• Has long flowering
• Has excellent decorative qualities

After cutting, Chinese chrysanthemum can maintain its freshness and attractive appearance for up to 30 days, which is very important when composing bouquets.

Queen of Autumn has more than 200 varieties, they are classified into several groups:

By inflorescence diameter

• Large-flowered (from 10 cm).
• Small-flowered (up to 10 cm).

According to the shape of the inflorescences

• Single and double row. In the center of the inflorescences there are tubular flowers, they are bordered by reed flowers arranged in one or two rows.
• Semi-double. Numerous reed flowers form more than three rows in the basket.
• Anemoids. The chrysanthemum inflorescence looks like an anemone flower.
• Pompons. The umbrella consists of numerous reed-shaped flowers and forms original design, similar to a small pompom.
• Terry. A lush inflorescence is formed from reed flowers of various types and shapes.

According to the height and shape of the bush

♦ Borders. These short ones spray chrysanthemums occupy a special place in the list of the most beautiful garden flowers. Flowers-crumbs, despite their 30 cm height (or even less), independently form in their bushes perfect shape ball without requiring any additional adjustments. The best varieties:

• Mascot. The plant with its bright, even provocative flowers of raspberry-beet color will become the highlight of the garden plot.
• Evening lights. Dazzling flashes of piercing scarlet petals will create the feeling of a real holiday fireworks display.
• Varvara. It will add calmness and help to slightly mute an overly bright flower bed with its inflorescences with delicate, lilac-lilac shade.

♦ Medium height. Medium-sized garden chrysanthemums, perennial varieties or hybrids of which have a height of 30-50 cm, will help bring to life any idea of ​​a phytodesigner. Indeed, among the plants of this series you can find all the rich color scheme inflorescences. Flowers of this category look great in single-row clumps (large flower groups) and flower beds. The best varieties:

• Lelia. A spectacularly beautiful variety with rich dark crimson inflorescences will become bright accent in any flower arrangement.
• Dune. Chrysanthemum-sorceress. Unobtrusive, subdued yellow -brown flowers As they bloom, they change color to golden yellow.
• Zorka. One of the most beautiful varieties. Double inflorescences are yellow-brown with a copper tint. Such flowers create a slightly sad and romantic feeling of velvet autumn.

♦ Tall. The garden perennial bush chrysanthemum can be a real giant and grow up to a meter. Large species it is necessary to additionally strengthen it with supports (you can use wooden pegs, metal frames or mesh). Supports are installed when planting plants. As they grow, the shoots are carefully tied to supports. Strong and well developed bushes with bright flowers ideal for zoning a large space. The best varieties:

• Rosetta's daughter. Chrysanthemum with flat inflorescences of white and pink shade will fill the garden with sensuality and enchanting romance.
• Umka. The dazzling, snow-white flowers have the appearance of a pompom. Strong, plentiful flowering plant is different high resistance to illness and cold.
• Amber Lady. Bright, golden inflorescences will create an atmosphere of joy and cheerfulness, giving a charge of optimism and a cheerful mood.

Chrysanthemum in decorative design Sada is a real sorceress. By selecting different varieties of early (July-October), middle (September-November) and late (November-December) flowering periods, you can create a simply fantastic phytodesign of garden plot .

Planting and propagation of chrysanthemums

◊ Landing. Garden chrysanthemums are planted and replanted in late May - early June. Flowers planted during this period have time to get used to the new place, grow stronger and quietly overwinter. Choose elevated places for plants with moisture-permeable and well-fertilized soil.

Advice! If the soil is not rich in organic matter, add some peat, manure or compost before planting (a bucket of square meter). But do not overdo it, otherwise the flowers will actively grow leaves and bloom little.

Choose a rainy, cloudy day for planting. You can plant in sunny weather early in the morning or late in the evening.

1. Make holes at a distance of 25 cm for small flowers and 50 cm for large ones.
2. Place a layer of drainage at the bottom of each hole (purified river sand will do).
3. Carefully plant the plant. Do not deepen the roots of the flower too much and do not forget about supports (for large species).
4. After planting, fertilize the plant with Kornevin to improve root growth.

At first, cover your delicate flowers with non-woven material (it will warm the young chrysanthemum and protect it from unexpected cold snaps).

◊ Reproduction. Chrysanthemum is easily propagated by cuttings. This event is held in the spring. Carefully trim the shoots to 10-15 cm, bottom part treat with Kornevin and plant in a new place. Some tips:

• “Early” cuttings (grown in winter) take root within a month and produce tall stems.
• “Late” cuttings (obtained in April-May) take root in just 1-2 weeks.
• Chrysanthemums with small inflorescences take root faster.
• Cuttings of flowers with thick, fleshy shoots take less time to master and take longer to develop.

The plant can be propagated by breaking off a side shoot, or by moving a branch to the side and covering it with soil. All methods of planting garden perennial chrysanthemums (regardless of the growing period) produce flowering almost at the same time, of course, with proper care.

In the gardens middle zone One of the most common flowers is chrysanthemum. It is valued for its unpretentiousness, the absence of the need to sow it again every spring, and its long flowering period.

Especially popular are young spherical chrysanthemums, caring for which is no more difficult than other varieties. They are almost never cut, but are grown mainly for balconies and loggias. How to provide comfortable conditions such a flower?

Why are these flowers so popular among gardeners?

But these flowers won the hearts of gardeners not only with their fabulous appearance: Unlike other varieties, they often bloom even at the end of August, delighting flower growers all autumn. Due to their unique genetic properties and constant selection, they do not require any pruning or shaping at all: spherical shape The bush acquires completely independently. But some experts say that it is more useful to pinch the tops when about four pairs of leaves appear on them. However, in 90% of cases this event is not necessary, since the spherical chrysanthemum will acquire the necessary shape without your intervention. In addition to the vegetable garden and garden, the bushes of this amazing plant feel great even on the windowsill, being planted in flower pots. In a word, they can become a real decoration of the area everywhere, attracting admiring glances.

The only obstacle for beginners may be their wintering, which requires certain conditions and care.

Features of growing spherical chrysanthemums

Planting and propagation of this plant is carried out by dormant rhizomes or seedlings that have already begun to function, since the seeds have no varietal characteristics, and no one can say with certainty what kind of flower you will get.

In addition, purchasing rhizomes/seedlings increases the chances that the chrysanthemum will actually grow and bloom while the probability of seed germination is not 100% at all. Therefore, novice gardeners are especially advised not to try to achieve results from seeds. However, there are also a few points here:

• Buy both seedlings and rhizomes in the spring, exactly at the time of planting, since this is the only way to monitor the quality of the material.
• pay attention to appearance rhizomes: they must be free of stains, signs of rotting, and dry areas.

The optimal time for planting spherical chrysanthemum, according to experts, is early spring when the first grass begins to emerge. The soil should already have melted enough to be dug up. If you are working with rhizomes, you must first awaken them by placing them in a large container and sprinkling them with settled water. They must be located in a bright place, but not under direct rays. A few days later, when the sprouts appear, they are planted.

Unlike most varieties of chrysanthemums, spherical ones can be planted not only in open ground, but also in small pots. However, before this you need to properly prepare the soil by mixing ordinary garden soil with peat and a small amount (25% of the total volume of the substrate) sand, which will act as natural drainage. In this case, at the bottom of the hole or pot, you first need to lay out a separate layer of drainage (about 3 cm), for which you can use crushed eggshells, and only then add soil.

• If you intend to plant spherical chrysanthemums in the garden, choose a cloudy day. It's even better if it's rainy. Hot, dry weather will be bad for the health of the rooting plant. If you need to land urgently, do it in the morning or late evening so that the sun is not at its peak.

The depth of the hole for a spherical chrysanthemum seedling should be 40 cm, and if you take a pot, its volume should be within 5-6 liters. The soil is lightly trampled during the teaching process, and in the garden the soil is first dug well and deprived of weeds, otherwise they will choke the young flower. Afterwards, the substrate needs to be moistened and allowed to soak before planting.

• Fertilizers are not added to the pot/hole when planting chrysanthemums.
• It is impossible to deepen the rhizomes of the globular chrysanthemum too much.

For the first few days, the flower needs to be in a bright place, but not under the scorching sun. If the weather is dry, of course, shade the seedlings (in the case where it is not possible to pick them up) using nectar material, otherwise burns will appear on the young leaves. During the first 1.5-2 weeks, their condition should be closely monitored, mainly checking the soil moisture and growth rate. After this, the chrysanthemum will grow quietly on its own.

Caring for spherical chrysanthemums in the garden and loggia

The genetic characteristics of this young variety have led to the fact that gardeners are already unpretentious flower Now there is almost no need to monitor. The pruning required by ordinary chrysanthemums is not necessary for spherical chrysanthemums, since the shrubs are low-growing (exceed half a meter in height) and do not grow in width.

However, it is worth removing dry shoots and fading buds regularly. What else does this plant need?

• After planting, you need to pinch it to prevent the bush from growing: the so-called “growth point” is removed, and after 3 weeks the upper section, several nodes long, is removed. It is this step that will help the plant find its inherent ball shape.
• The place where the spherical low-growing chrysanthemum will grow should be well lit. If this is a loggia, then ideally it is southern. Find an area in the garden that is not adjacent to a wall. If the bush is constantly shaded, it will grow and flowering will be weak, its lifespan will be significantly reduced.
• Watering for plants that live in pots should be daily, and it is advisable to use rainwater or settled water. For those who grow in the garden, in a normal climate, natural moisture is sufficient. On dry, hot days, you can apply 2-2.5 liters under the bush, but keep in mind that this should always be done in the morning, before the soil warms up. And don't get caught on the leaves, otherwise you will get burned.
• They begin to feed spherical chrysanthemums from the 3rd week of life, always using nitrogen fertilizer, which also contains phosphorus. After 2 such feedings, experts advise switching to potassium mixtures, and also be sure to give magnesium to chrysanthemums - this will help lush flowering bushes

It must be said that gardeners are still arguing about the real need for potassium-magnesium fertilizing: some of them believe that a one-time application of nitrogen fertilizer in the spring is enough for spherical chrysanthemums, and subsequent fertilizing will only do harm; flowering will be beautiful without them. There is no single recipe here: be guided by chemical composition soil and the condition of your plant. You can also add a little ash, especially for a bush that lives in a pot and cannot receive nutrition from nearby areas.

However, most experts are convinced that it is better to give garden flowers too little fertilizer than to provide them with an excess of nutrients.

How to preserve spherical chrysanthemums in winter?

After the bush enters the final phase of flowering, which happens mainly in October, all stems should be removed so that the above-ground part in height does not exceed 10 cm. Firstly, such a step will help the plant devote all its strength to the growing season to resist pests; secondly, the growth of new shoots will be stimulated.

However, this is not the only thing you need to do before the cold weather arrives.

• If you plan to propagate a chrysanthemum, do it in early autumn: it needs to take root before the end of the second ten days of September when grown in open ground. You can plant it in a pot later, but then it should not be deep (but wide). The seedling will overwinter at a temperature of 5-7 degrees, always in the dark.

A significant advantage of spherical chrysanthemums is that winter care is very simple, since the plant is frost-resistant and survives the cold well even in Siberia. The only thing that is required from the gardener is a good covering material with which to cover the bush. It is best to use polyethylene, which is pressed with a brick. True, there are a number of varieties that are ready to winter on open area only in southern regions Russia, while in others they will still be required to move them into flowerpots when October comes to an end. They can be transferred to a glassed-in loggia and allowed to overwinter there, and in this case flowering can continue until January.

If you were forced to move your chrysanthemum bush indoors for the winter, do not forget that in April it will be time for it to “wake up”, for which the plant is taken to a well-lit area, and after the soil warms up, it is planted back into open ground.

Propagation of chrysanthemum Multiflora

There are three ways to propagate spherical chrysanthemums: propagation by cuttings; dividing the bush; division of the root system. The first method needs to be started in the spring, at the moment when it is time to get Multiflora after wintering. Place the box with the roots in the sun and regularly moisten the soil in it. Over time, new shoots will grow from the buds. When they reach a length of 10 cm, the bush is divided, and individual shoots are planted in open ground. This method not only allows you to propagate chrysanthemums, but also rejuvenates the plant. Old bushes that have not been divided for a long time lose their decorative properties over time.

Tip: Multiflora also reproduces well from green cuttings. Cut them from the plant and keep them in water until roots appear, then plant them in the ground. The remaining two methods allow you to propagate chrysanthemums using transplantation. Multifora can be replanted both at the end of summer and in autumn. The main thing is to give it the opportunity to take root well before the first frost. Or you can save your time and plant young plants directly in pots for wintering indoors. Having learned to grow spherical chrysanthemums, you can create many beautiful interiors for your garden. The diversity of Multiflora is impressive; let’s look at the most popular varieties of this variety.

Disease and pest control

• To protect the chrysanthemum from aphid invasion and spider mites, it needs to be watered frequently. Because these pests cannot tolerate moisture.
• Any soil contains harmful microorganisms. After each moistening or rain, it is recommended to treat plants with Previkur or Quadris for preventive purposes against various diseases.
• To avoid the appearance of root rot, Fitosporin is added to the water for irrigation. Caterpillars are considered the most inveterate pests of chrysanthemums. They actively eat flower buds. Therefore, plants need frequent inspection and timely action in case of infection. In the fight against caterpillars, leaf rollers, aphids and mites, Fitoverm, Actellik or Aktaru are used.

As you can see, growing and caring for globular chrysanthemum is a very simple process and can be done by any gardener. To successfully grow such beauty in open ground, you just need desire, a little patience and attention.