What you need for the floor on the balcony. Making a wooden floor on the balcony step by step

The balcony is a storage place for old, unnecessary things. However, it can be turned into an elegant extension of the apartment. Any transformation begins with laying a strong foundation, which, in the case of a balcony, is the floor. Lay a wooden covering on it or cover it with tiles - the choice is up to the owner of the house.

Any new floor option requires initial training concrete slab. To do this, you need to do a thorough cleaning. It is more convenient to use a vacuum cleaner instead of a dustpan and broom. If there are cracks in the concrete, they should be repaired using putty, and the gaps between the slabs should be covered with polyurethane foam.

Preparing the base

The main thing to start with is to level the surface.

We will use a simple and affordable method, self-leveling flooring.

Below are instructions on how to do this correctly.

1. Carefully prime the surface. After the material has dried, clean the floor with a vacuum cleaner.
2. Strictly following the instructions, prepare the mixture in a bucket. For kneading, a drill with a whisk attachment is usually used.
3. We begin to pour the composition, gradually moving from the far corner towards the exit. In the process, distribute the liquid with a metal spatula with a smooth edge.

   Use a long-handled spatula to spread the mixture

4. When the surface is completely covered with the mixture, you will need a needle roller. They need to walk over the surface several times. This procedure will remove accumulated air bubbles.
5. After 4 hours you can walk on the floor. Complete drying will take several days.

Attention! The finished mixture must be used within 30 minutes after mixing.

Insulation of the base without changing the height of the ceiling

If you want to insulate the floor on the balcony without any problems and cover it with laminate, then you should use electricity. Or rather, installation of heated floors. Of the materials available in stores, the most suitable is an infrared heater. To install it, you do not need to make a screed, which will raise the floor by 10-20 cm. Let's get to work.

1. We start by laying penofol, or other heat-insulating material, over the entire area of ​​the self-leveling floor.
2. We distribute the heating elements in the same way, on top of the insulation.
3. We use bitumen insulation to protect the copper contacts from the edge adjacent to the parapet from moisture.
4. Let's sum it up electric wires from the opposite side. Solder them to the contacts.
5. We also cover all remaining electrically conductive contacts with an insulator.
6. We supply power to the thermostat. We connect the temperature sensor and place it under the heating elements, fix the wire with tape.
7. We check all connections and carry out a test run of the system.
8. The final step is laying the laminate. detailed instructions process is given below.

Attention! Incorrect installation and poor moisture protection can lead to a short circuit. This will lead to exit heating elements out of service. You will have to open the laminate and replace or remove the heated floor.

Infrared heated floor

Insulated raised base

Glazing will increase the temperature on the balcony, but only by 10-12 degrees. An additional measure is to increase the thickness of the floor. In addition, new cladding methods will be added.

1. We mark the position of the three longitudinal logs. The side bars should lag behind the walls by 5 cm, and the central one by 40-50 cm. Draw the lines on which the logs will be located.
2. We calculate the joint of the plywood and draw a line. There will be a cross beam here.
3. Mark the mounting locations for the brackets. They should be at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. On the line of the cross beam, the brackets will be located one at a time between the joists.
4. We fix the brackets to the walls using dowels.
5. We cut off two pieces of insulation, the length of the entire balcony and a width of 20 cm. We lay them along the edges, cutting holes for the brackets.
6. We lay the two outer longitudinal logs. If the timber is not long enough, their joint should be in the middle of the holder.
7. We fasten the timber with a self-tapping screw, at a height of 10-15 cm from the floor. We level it with a level and fix it from the opposite edge.
8. It is impossible to tighten the screw from the wall side, the distance is too small. The remaining fastenings of the beam to the holder are made with a bolt and nut. To do this, you need to drill through the joist and screw two bolts into each bracket.
9. We align the second lag relative to the first and secure it.
10. We attach the holders for the intermediate joist. We lay a strip of insulation.
11. We align the beams relative to those already installed. All fixing is done using self-tapping screws.
12. We install the cross beam. We install the brackets according to the prepared markings. We attach the block itself to the longitudinal joists using metal corners. We fix the joist in the holder with self-tapping screws. On the opposite side, relative to the central joist, we repeat the process
13. In the same way we make 4 more lags.
14. We fill the empty space with insulation up to the top edge of the bars.
15. We lay the plywood, leaving 5 mm from each wall for its expansion.
16. Two sheets of material, at the junction, should occupy half of the transverse joist. This will allow them to hold tightly and eliminate the risk of breaking the edges.
17. We fasten the plywood sheets with self-tapping screws to the joists at a distance of 15 cm from each other.
18. We recess all fastener heads into the material.

Below is a table with the materials you will need for all the basics. It will also indicate the quantity and approximate cost raw materials.

Cold floor covering

The floor of an open balcony is constantly exposed to harmful influences. In summer the sun bakes it, it is flooded with rain, and in winter it is covered with snow. When choosing a coating, you should consider these factors.

Facing tiles. Installation instructions

This coating will cope with any threats, and it is also easy to clean. You can limit yourself to one type of tile, or lay out a pattern that will please the eye. The base has already been prepared, let's start finishing.

1. We start marking from the corner farthest from the door and adjacent to the parapet. This is where the first row of tiles will be laid.
2. Using a spatula with a serrated edge, apply tile adhesive. It needs to be distributed over an area of ​​3-4 tiles.
3. We lay the tile on the rough side and press it tightly. The adhesive composition should evenly fill all voids. If you miss this moment, over time the corners of the tile will begin to break due to the load.
4. To ensure an even seam, plastic crosses are applied to the corners of the tiles. After the glue has hardened, they must be removed.
5. The next step is filling the joints with grout. Its color should be harmoniously combined with the rest of the surface.
6. After a day, the remaining grout and glue are removed. A thorough cleaning is carried out.
7. The baseboard is glued.

Attention! It is better to choose tiles with a rough surface. It will be less slippery, especially in winter.

Reference. The tiles can also be laid on a plywood base of a raised floor. However, tile adhesive should be replaced with mastic so as not to spoil the base.

facing tiles

The right way to install decking boards

For those who do not like tiles, there is another option - special boards. This composite material can withstand moisture and temperature changes. The installation process is simple and takes little time.

1. First, you need to lay the logs along the width of the balcony, every 50 cm. The ends of the bars should be 10 mm behind the walls. This will compensate for the expansion that will occur over time.
2. Each lag is secured with three anchor bolts.

   First of all, you should choose a material at least 3 mm thick with a special pile. Thanks to the hairs on the rough side, the floor will be softer and warmer. Also, the size of the piece should allow it to completely cover the entire area of ​​the balcony floor.

   Before laying, the roll should be unrolled and allowed to lie on the balcony. This will allow the material to level out and “get used” to operating conditions. In a couple of days you can start working.

3. All rows after the first are mounted so that each subsequent board is shifted by half the length of the previous one. The material must be cut with a jigsaw with a special file. It does not have inclined teeth and will not leave chips on the front surface of the laminate.
4. A staple or nail puller is used to install the last row. It is inserted into the slot and secures the board in the groove.

How to lay laminate flooring yourself

Attention! Laying linoleum, parquet, or laminate on a balcony that is not glazed risks rapid deterioration of the coating.

Pros and cons of coatings

Naturally, there is no absolutely right choice. When choosing a material, you should pay attention to the amount of light entering the balcony. Consider options, future use of space, and level of your own skills. However, knowing the positive and negative features of the material, you can get a result close to perfection.

The apartment becomes a home for many years. The more comfortable the home, the more pleasant it is to return there after work. On your own, with minimal investment Money, you can easily get an additional room, a flower garden or just a place to relax.

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden floor on the balcony

The arrangement of the balcony space also includes the creation of a new floor. It doesn’t matter at all whether it is glazed or not, the nature of its use and other features. A high-quality floor is necessary in all these cases. It will not only increase the comfort of using the loggia, but also protect the balcony slab from destruction. To make a balcony floor with your own hands, you need to perform a number of works.

Rice. 1 Self-leveling floor on the balcony

Create a loggia floor with your own hands in the following way. First, the loggia is cleared of all the things there. Remove the covering, if any, from the floor surface and remove debris.

When considering how to make a floor on a balcony with your own hands, find out the evenness of the base using a level. You can pour some water on the floor. It will be immediately noticeable where it flows and where it collects in the form of puddles. If this happens, the surface needs to be leveled.

Rice. 2 Repairing the floor on the balcony - pouring screed

The arrangement process begins with the creation of a screed. It is poured along the beacons, which are leveled using a level.

If the balcony structure is open, then the screed is laid with an outward slope. This will allow water that gets on the surface of the slab to flow out without problems. Precipitation will not accumulate on the floor.

The screed can be made from ordinary cement mortar or self-leveling. For the second option, a frame is made so that the liquid solution does not leak outside the balcony space. It is required in cases where a self-leveling screed is made on an open balcony with a metal fence.

Balcony floor materials

The choice of materials for the floor on the balcony is a very important process. The durability of the structure, ease of use and maintenance depend on this.

The material for the balcony floor must meet a number of requirements. It must be reliable and durable. If the balcony space is not heated, then important characteristic is frost resistance. Many outdoor structures suffer from high humidity. The flooring material must be resistant to moisture.

Rice. 3 How to finish the floor on the balcony - wooden plank

When choosing materials, they also take into account the fact whether the loggia is open or closed. To install the floor on a closed balcony, you can use less stable options. For open loggias, it is necessary to use materials that can withstand temperature changes and water ingress. Such options include ceramic tiles. It is this material that is most often used for finishing the floors of unglazed balcony structures.

Rice. 4 Carpet on the balcony

Floor for open balcony

Arranging a floor on an open structure has its own characteristics. It requires a floor covering that is not afraid of low and high temperatures, rain and snow, and sunlight.

Preliminary waterproofing of the balcony slab is very important. Water should not soak into the slab or penetrate through the smallest cracks. Waterproof the slab with rolled material, primers or moisture-resistant mixtures. At the same time, a slight slope outward must be maintained so that precipitation water drains from the surface of the structure.

Rice. 5 Self-leveling waterproofing for balcony floors

For open loggias, the following types of flooring are most often used.

Ceramic tile

This material meets all requirements for coating used outdoors. The tiles must be intended for outdoor surfaces and have a rough, non-slip surface so that the floor on the open balcony is safe.

Rice. 6 What to make the floor on the balcony from - ceramic tiles

Since ceramic tiles are a heavy material, the structure must cope with increasing loads. This material perfectly resists moisture. To ensure high waterproofing, you need to select the right glue and moisture-resistant grout. Additionally, the seams are treated with a water repellent substance.

Coloring

The flat and smooth surface of the balcony slab does not have to be tiled or covered with other flooring material. There are other floor finishes open balconies. Painting will create a matte or glossy surface in the desired color shade. The paint coating will protect concrete slab from moisture and destruction.

Acrylic, epoxy and polyurethane paints are used for concrete floors. The abrasion loads are small, so the coating will serve for a long time and effectively. Updating it is also not difficult.

Linoleum

This material is used as flooring for balconies, but it is not designed for use in such conditions. Many linoleum options lose elasticity and crack at sub-zero temperatures. The material changes size with temperature changes, which also affects the quality of the loggia covering.

The downside is low moisture resistance. However low price allows you to use such a coating in an open loggia, periodically replacing it after a few years.

Rice. 7 Appearance of the floor covering on a linoleum balcony

Decking

Rice. 8 Which floor is better to make on open balconies - decking

Decking or artificial decking is designed for outdoor use. From it you can assemble a high-quality floor that will look like wood. The decking's weight is small, so it can be used on any structure. The coating is made from a wood-polymer composite.

Rice. 9 Installation of a floor on a loggia made of composite material

Floor for glazed balcony

Considering how to make a floor on a loggia, it can be noted that the requirements for the floor of a glazed structure are no longer so high. For furnishing, you can use almost any floor covering, from laminate to carpet. Of course, it is worth taking into account other characteristics of the room. If on the loggia high humidity, then the carpet is not the best good option, it will collect and retain moisture. If the balcony structure is insulated and heated, then there will be no restrictions.

Rice. 10 Laminate balcony floor

When installing the floor on a glazed and insulated balcony, installation is carried out on logs. A flooring is created, the surface of which is the floor. Between the joists there is space for insulation. To make a wooden floor on a balcony with your own hands, you need to follow the following steps.

Preparation of materials

To ensure that a wooden floor lasts a long time, all its parts are treated with an antiseptic and dried, and then the process is repeated.

Preparing the base

We make a wooden floor directly on a concrete base, so the old coating is first removed. The slab is cleaned, cracks and cracks are sealed.

Laying heat-reflecting material

In order for the thermal insulation of the balcony to be effective, place a heat-reflecting sheet with the foil side inward. The laying material should not only cover the surface of the slab, but also extend onto the walls by approximately twenty centimeters on each side.

Rice. 11 Arranging the floor on the balcony - laying reflective material

Installation of cross beams

Transverse logs are laid along the entire length of the balcony in increments of about half a meter. They are attached directly to concrete base. Fastening is carried out in increments of six centimeters. The timber should not rest against the walls. Expansion gaps of approximately a centimeter on each side are required.

Rice. 12 The process of installing the floor on the balcony - laying transverse and longitudinal joists

Laying the main joists

The main, thicker and more massive beams are placed on top of the transverse logs. They are laid along the entire length of the balcony. The distance between these logs is about half a meter. For a standard, narrow balcony, three longitudinal logs are enough. The outer ones should not be laid close to the walls. All logs must be located at the same level. Insulation can be placed between the elements.

Installation of solid boards

The board is laid across the balcony, cut to size. The flooring is created. It shouldn't hit walls.

Rice. 13 Solid board for balconies

The tenon is cut off from the first board, all the rest are laid out sequentially and fastened with a locking connection. We lay the boards and fasten them to the joists with self-tapping screws. The screws are screwed into the groove at an angle of forty-five degrees.

If you lay a solid board without a coating, then the floor can be covered with varnish or wood paint. Watch the video on how to lay a plank floor on a balcony.

Increasingly in modern renovation the prevailing desire is to maximize the space and its practicality, remove all corners, minimize the amount of furniture and things. And they help with this effective solutions, which find a place in any room of an apartment or private house. For example, a balcony, which for more than half of people has always been an ordinary pantry. Today it becomes a full-fledged room - an office, a nursery, a relaxation area. But for such functionality of the balcony it is necessary high-quality repairs! It is worth considering all the components of putting the balcony in order. This includes insulation, glazing, and wall decoration. But very important point is gender. It is the materials for finishing the floor on the balcony that we will talk about today!

Why do you need to finish the floor on the balcony?

• Aesthetic component. A regular concrete floor on a balcony in an apartment, or a wooden floor on a balcony frame house or a log house is not the best solution at the moment when you decide to make repairs. The base should be put in order and combined with the main ideas of the interior;
• Alignment. On a few square meters of the balcony, the slope is not felt, but in the vast majority of apartment balconies there is one, since the architecture of the buildings provides for the drainage of water from the concrete areas of the open balconies;
• Thermal insulation. The concrete floor is very cold, even in summer. And in winter, even slippers do not help protect your feet from the cold. Therefore, finishing the floor on the balcony in almost every case also includes its insulation;
• Ensuring the comfort of the room. If a balcony is turned into a living room by the hands of a master, then the floor in it is very important in terms of the possibility of maintaining desired temperature. Making a warm floor on the balcony is not difficult!

Choosing material for finishing the balcony floor

When choosing finishing materials, the buyer should pay attention to many quality characteristics so as not to make a mistake, do not overpay!

• The durability of the material is a determining factor in the service life of different conditions. Cheap finishing materials last 3-5 years, average-cost ones that meet the requirements of the premises - about 8-10 years, expensive premium materials - more than 15 years before losing 20-30% of the original characteristics;
• Strength and reliability of the material. Regardless of the softness and hardness, size and method of laying the floor finish, the coating should not crack, sag, or fail;
• Safety. It is important that the floor materials are environmentally friendly and safe, preventing injuries;
• Resistance to external influences. This quality correlates with the durability of the material, but still the focus is on frost-resistant, moisture-resistant materials with a neutral attitude to temperature changes and UV radiation;
• And finally, aesthetic indicators. This is a purely personal choice, after checking that the tiles, planks or other finishing options meet the previous requirements!

Having roughly understood modern standards, the range and cost of finishing the floor for a balcony, you can begin to make a choice. But how to choose among dozens of types of finishes? First you need to study them as much as possible, and possibly compare them according to certain criteria!

Important restrictions on the choice of flooring on the balcony

• On open balconies, materials must be moisture- and water-resistant, covered hydrophobic impregnations, paint and varnish materials;
• There is a mandatory weight limit. Any balcony provides them. That is why not standard cement-sand and leveling screeds are chosen for the floor, but dry screeds, logs, plastic and steel lightweight systems. Naturally, the finishing materials themselves must comply with restrictions on total weight and load;
• Mandatory adherence to technology. It is important to adhere to all rules and regulations even on the balcony. Condensation formation, temperature conditions and other conditions can lead to the appearance of fungus and mold, their development and active life. Therefore, when sealing, thermal insulation and performing other work in the process of laying the floor, it is important to follow the basics - choose the right insulation, diffusion membranes, protect joints and corners from freezing and moisture.

Materials for the floor on the balcony: features and characteristics

Plywood, OSB board, chipboard and chipboard

Budget options for floor finishing. In this case, plywood, chipboard or OSB can be rough leveling platforms for further coating with decorative layers, or independent, with varnishing or painting.

Plywood and OSB are moisture-resistant, high-strength materials. For the floor, the thickness should be at least 18-22 mm with the appropriate pitch of the logs. laminated chipboard – more decorative material with lamination, protective coating, chipboard - rather a temporary option, the most budget-friendly and short-lived, not resistant to moisture.

The best of these budget materials are considered to be plywood and OSB with a mandatory coating of alkyd varnish or hard varnish in 3-4 layers. End finishing is also necessary, adding decorative thresholds to joints and transitions to prevent end delamination!

Carpet and carpeting for the floor on the balcony

Soft, beautiful and comfortable, but definitely not for an open balcony, where after several wetnesses from rain the coverings will simply begin to rot, emit a stench and become a breeding ground for mold underneath.

But for closed balconies and loggias the option is excellent. Simple installation, low cost of materials, a wide variety of external indicators and standard-size characteristics. Laying on a base made of OSB or plywood, the possibility of installing a heated floor.

You can use scraps, trade samples, and leftovers after renovations in any room of the house or apartment to finish the floor on the balcony.

Possible installation on adhesive bases or dry lay it out and secure it around the perimeter with a plinth!

Linoleum and vinyl tiles on the balcony floor

Linoleum is the most famous material, present in almost every apartment or house. Well, or was seen there before the last renovation.

Durable, durable, beautiful material, modern examples of which people without experience cannot even distinguish from tiled, stone or laminate floors. There is plenty to choose from, and there is a huge range of prices. But you just need to pay attention to the protective layer and base.

The protective layer assumes resistance to external influences, especially abrasion. A protective layer thickness of 0.3-0.5 mm is more than enough for a balcony. Modern linoleums practically do not fade in the sun and do not crack due to temperature changes. Working with flooring is very simple, you just need to keep the linoleum laid out on the floor and cut by 8-10 mm on each side for 24-36 hours until it independently levels out on the surface under its own weight. Next, additional cutting of the material by 5-6 mm from each wall is required, and pressing it with a plinth. Whether or not to glue linoleum to the base is up to you.

You can find among all types of this flooring material that is almost eternal for a balcony or loggia. This is homogeneous or heterogeneous linoleum, which is also called sports. Its structure implies not only increased wear resistance, but also easy repairability of damage to the coating!

Vinyl tiles are a more rigid and better protected material than linoleum, but only when mandatory condition consideration of coatings of the same class.

Vinyl tile is a material with a multilayer structure, reinforced and hardened. The service life is limited only to a threshold of 15-20 years, depending on operating conditions. It differs from linoleum in more interesting interpretations in installation, the creation of patterns, the ability to stretch the work over several days, installation in parts, since this is not a roll material, but a piece format.

Vinyl tiles must be glued to the base. In general, the material is not bad, but it is one and a half times more expensive than linoleum!

Good modern material floor finishing, decorative, original, easy to use, compatible with any floor heating system, quite durable and reliable, but with only one significant drawback - fear of moisture! Even moisture-resistant laminate, which is praised by manufacturers and due to this costs several times more than standard 32nd and 33rd classes, is afraid of moisture. No, if only a glass of water is spilled and it is cleaned up within the next few minutes, nothing will happen to the coating. But longer-term contact with moisture will affect the design of the locks, the basis of the finishing material!

Laminate is not suitable for open balconies, where it is possible to get wet from precipitation, and also requires high-quality surface preparation and installation of a subfloor.

Overall, a good option for an enclosed balcony. In cost, it can be identical to linoleum!

Edged board on the balcony

Additional budget material for installing a subfloor also becomes decorative. High-quality drying of the board, its painting and protection from moisture with paints and varnishes with pre-treatment with antiseptic protection, bring the board floor to a unique good view. There is an option artificial aging boards, firing with a hair dryer or open fire, or a blowtorch. Decorative look is also achieved with the help of translucent impregnations on water based. But varnishing, in this case, is simply mandatory. Moreover, in 3-4 layers and preferably yacht varnish, the smell of which disappears for an extremely long time, but the protective material increases the durability of the wooden floor even on an open balcony up to 20-25 years, with additional treatment every 4-6 years!

It is definitely worth considering a special tongue and groove floor board. It's more expensive finishing material, but it is immediately ready for the process of forming the floor surface. Unfortunately, the requirements for additional protection of wood do not disappear anywhere!

Parquet and parquet boards for the floor on the balcony

Expensive! Quite expensive, but if the budget allocated for work in the house allows you to purchase several square meters parquet or parquet boards, you can assume that you are getting the best material.

Unfortunately, this does not apply so much specifically to parquet boards, which, albeit natural, are a material for the synthesis of successive layers of wood of different densities, substrates made of fiber boards and materials for protecting the decorative layer. Beautiful, even extremely decorative, strong and durable, but this coating is of little use for restoration, especially considering modern quality materials and influence on it marketing framework business. You can buy parquet boards of fairly mediocre quality for an expensive price. Therefore, it is important to consult with specialists in advance in order to make right choice. If this works out, the material with a service life of 12-15 years will look great on a closed balcony. True, it will require installation careful preparation bases, for example, plywood or OSB!

Solid parquet is perhaps the most natural material, having all the necessary characteristics and features good coverage flooring not only for balconies, but primarily for residential premises.

Parquet is selected from hard wood - ash, oak, birch, maple. But there are several dozen options, not only in wood species, but also in standard sizes.

Laying parquet is quite complicated, but it is a really high-quality material, which after subsequent processing becomes an almost eternal material! Sanding, sanding, puttying, painting and varnishing are processes by which parquet can be completely renewed at any time. Parquet is not suitable for open balconies and loggias. It is advisable to choose it for warm and dry rooms!

Parquet is quite expensive, especially when choosing exotic wood species!

Tiles and porcelain tiles for finishing the floor on the balcony

A strong and reliable floor, extremely durable and easiest to maintain, hassle-free maintenance and is not afraid of moisture, frost, or abrasion.

The floor is quite cold and hard, which is its disadvantages, but it can easily be covered with paths and rugs, and, if necessary, laid on a warm floor.

Installation of ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware is possible today on any surface. Specially designed for this adhesive compositions, priming and reinforcement systems, and other materials and add-ons for installing tiles on concrete, wood, and other surfaces. Just don’t forget about the restrictions on the weight of the finishing material, and under no circumstances should you pour screed on the balcony without preliminary calculations. If there is an extreme need for floor screed, it is better to use a light dry screed using the Knauf system or other technologies!

There are practically no restrictions on the service life of porcelain stoneware and tiles. There are only a few options for replacing such a floor in the near future - you will drop a heavy object on it and crack the tiles (then you can use the option of partial repairs, replacing one tile), or you will get tired of the look of the floor!

There are really many options for finishing the floor, because you can use not only strictly appropriate materials for a given room, but also others that are at hand. It has been repeatedly noticed how craftsmen choose decking boards for the balcony, broken tiles, they make a collection from the remains of tiles, laying out fancy designs, make a self-leveling floor, a 3D floor with original patterns under a polymer layer, lay out the floor on the balcony with mosaics, natural or artificial stone, cover it with a warm and very comfortable cork covering, and also simply cover the concrete slab with two-component polyurethane varnishes to protect it from moisture and other external influences. But they remain more in demand budget options with an organic combination of the qualities of strength, durability, simplified systematic maintenance, as well as appearance - these are linoleum, wooden boards, slab materials or carpets. A little less often - laminate and parquet board. The most rare are stone, tiles and parquet. The choice is yours... the guidelines have already been set!

It is not necessary to glass the balcony to give it a cozy and complete look. It is enough to lay the flooring to make the loggia look much tidier.

But how to properly make a floor on a balcony with your own hands? Everything is quite simple even for a novice builder.

Do-it-yourself wooden floor on the balcony - a simple option for glazed rooms

Unscrupulousness of builders - known fact. And a balcony slab that is curved in all three axes is not surprising. And so the workers who glazed the balcony left, the walls were plastered and painted, but something was still missing for a cozy tea party. And there is not enough flooring.

Without bothering with the screed even at the stage wet work, don't be discouraged. After all, it is precisely for such cases that adjustable logs were invented. The self-installation process is indecently simple:

1. It is imperative to prepare a long building level or board, the length of which is slightly less than the width of the balcony. You will also need a hammer drill, a drill, a foam gun, a construction knife and a centimeter.
2. The materials needed are edged bars with a cross-section of 45x70 mm, brackets for logs of the required height, dowels, self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts. If you plan to insulate the floor with two layers of insulation, the height of the brackets should be sufficient to allow the first layer to fit under the joists. If you just need to level the floor, you can use the shortest brackets.
3. Foam is used to fill the gaps between concrete slabs. The future location of the joists and brackets is marked. The logs should be 5 cm apart from the wall, and 40-50 cm apart from each other. If MDF sheets are laid instead of wooden flooring, a transverse joist must be provided at the junction of the sheets.





4. The brackets are secured to the floor with dowels. For this you will need a hammer drill - regular drill It won't drill through concrete. For three-meter logs you need 5 brackets - two at the ends and three in the span at a distance of 60 cm from each other. If the balcony is more than three meters, the required number of brackets is added. It should be taken into account that at the junction the bars must both be fixed with one bracket.
5. If two layers of insulation are provided, the first one is laid under the logs. At the locations of the brackets, the insulation is simply cut through and “slung” onto them.



6. The logs are being laid. Start with external wall. First, one end is fixed to the desired height with one self-tapping screw. After leveling, the second end is secured with two self-tapping screws. Since the logs need to be attached to the brackets on both sides, and a screwdriver cannot fit into a 5-centimeter gap, a through hole is drilled and the logs are fixed with the mentioned bolts and nuts. All other brackets are secured in the same way.
7. The next lag is laid under the opposite wall. Here, first one end is leveled in accordance with the first joist, and then the other. Then all intermediate logs are laid, constantly checking the level.
8. Insulation is installed between the joists.



9. All that remains is to cover the boards with varnish or paint and the floor is ready!

In order for the tree to last a long time, it is better to pre-treat it with antiseptics and woodworm repellents. Otherwise, in a couple of years you will be able to hear the bark beetle gnawing on the hard-laid floor!

DIY floor on an open balcony

Wood is a wonderful material. But for open spaces It doesn’t fit in any way - it gets wet, dries out, molds and rots. Either way street tiles! Wear-resistant, non-slip and not afraid of temperature changes.

If pre-screed has been done, laying tiles is a pleasure. If not, you'll have to tinker a little:

1. The floor on the balcony should have a slight slope outward so that any water that gets in flows out freely and does not stagnate. Therefore, you cannot use special mixtures for screed - they are “self-leveling” and will simply flow to the lowest point, which will not allow making a slope.
2. You can make the mixture for floor screed on the balcony yourself: for 40 kg of cement you need 3.5 buckets of sand, 10 buckets of limestone and a little more than 2 buckets of water.
3. Beacons are installed - can be used metal profiles, installed along the balcony (between short walls) at a distance of 50 cm from each other. Pieces of hardboard are placed under the ends to create the required slope and level the floor. You can also make beacons using self-tapping screws, as in the photo.



4. First, the profiles are “poured” with solution in several places and again checked with a level. If necessary, their position is leveled.
5. After a few hours, when the solution has set and the beacons will no longer move, you can make a screed. To do this, a solution is poured between the beacons and the rule (longer than 60 cm) is leveled so that the profile ribs appear.



6. Important: it is worth making formwork on the outside of the balcony so that the solution does not flow down onto the heads of passers-by. At the same time, if the fence of the loggia is a concrete slab, you need to leave a gap between the floor and the fence, otherwise the water will have nowhere to drain.





7. If the exit to the balcony is in the middle, fill first one half, starting from the far end, and then the second. The last thing to fill is the gap between the beacons opposite the door.
8. If the thickness of the screed is small, you don’t have to water it and you can start laying tiles within a week. Otherwise, it is better to wait one two weeks to a month, watering the floor daily so that the concrete gains the necessary strength.

But how to lay the tiles on the balcony is shown in detail in the video:

Loggia - the best option continuation of the apartment at the junction with the open space of the outside world. There are fewer and fewer adherents of the open space of balconies, terraces and loggias. Most townspeople try to glaze and insulate their loggia in the best traditions modern technologies. Self-installation the floor on the loggia is one of the most simple tasks for renovation or improvement of an apartment. But it is important to do this with a professional approach, in accordance with technology, so that the floors are durable, warm and beautiful.

Selection of materials for the floor on the loggia

A well-equipped loggia is unthinkable without glazing and insulation. This allows you to improve the microclimate of the room adjacent to the street and make it more suitable for growing indoor plants or morning exercises in the fresh air. Even with conventional glazing, the temperature on the loggia or balcony increases by 5-7°C, and on the south side by 10-12°C. An insulated loggia is a complete addition to a city apartment, where it is not necessary to dress warmly and protect yourself from bad weather when you need to breathe fresh air.

If it is planned to combine the area of ​​the loggia and the adjacent room, then full insulation of all planes is necessary. And if the apartment owners are faced with the question of what kind of floor to make on the loggia, it is worth considering all the options in order to choose the best one.

Experts have developed several methods of floor insulation, including “warm floor” systems, which use a special warm cable. However, before laying it, you will first have to complete other stages of work:

• floor leveling;
• thermal insulation;
• protection against fire.

Only after this do they begin laying the heating elements and finishing. Example - high-quality floors on a loggia, photo:

The choice of materials for leveling, insulating and finishing the floor varies, based on the capabilities of the owners and the characteristics of the room. Taken into account:

• design features of the loggia;
• degree of insulation of all surfaces;
• type of glazing;
• financial opportunities;
• expected temperature after insulation.

If insulation and glazing are not expected, then even a basic arrangement of the floor on the loggia requires:

• surface leveling;
• finishing.

Finishing the loggia floor should be economical, reliable and aesthetically pleasing. It is performed using building materials that can withstand:

• exposure to an unfavorable external environment;
• temperature changes;
• the onslaught of elements and precipitation.

The type of loggia is also taken into account. For an open type, experts recommend using a cement screed with expanded clay and finishing with tiled materials:

• tiles, porcelain tiles or ceramic tiles;
• natural or artificial stone.

For glazed balcony finishing materials more sensitive to temperature changes are suitable;

• laminate or laminated chipboard;
• natural wood (lining);
• thick linoleum on a warm backing.

Leveling the floor on the loggia

At home standard layout Often they demonstrate all the “jambs” of the builders - poor-quality finishing and uneven surfaces. And while there is no decision on which floor is best for the loggia, it is worthwhile to level it, without which high-quality repairs are impossible. Why do you need floor leveling? So that water does not accumulate and flow into the room, and also so that it is possible to install balcony furniture, exercise equipment, etc.

1. If it is noticeable that the surface of the loggia floor is not ideal, even at a quick glance, it must be leveled for a high-quality finish.

2. Small unevenness and defects can also be eliminated; it is enough to use a self-leveling mixture.

3. Rough defects are leveled with a screed or logs are placed under wood flooring floor on the loggia or balcony.

Floors on a balcony or loggia should be made of lightweight materials so as not to create additional load on the support. Whatever the finishing materials, the floors need to be prepared, which involves:

• removing old tiles, linoleum or paint;
• removal of areas of rot and dampness;
• sealing seams and cracks through which precipitation penetrates;
• treatment with a construction antifungal drug;
• leveling and sealing;
• priming or preparing the base for final finishing.

Before making the perfect loggia floor, it is important to choose the right leveling method, for example:

• classic cement screed without insulation and fillers;
• dry screed with filling for insulation (expanded clay, expanded polystyrene);
• dry and semi-dry screed with insulation;
• alignment under warm pipes underfloor heating;
• plank floor on joists (with or without insulation);
• alignment by any in the above way under linoleum or laminate flooring;
• laying finishing on polystyrene foam or expanded clay with or without joists;
• screed for tiles;
• branded “warm floor” with Nexans cable.

Advice. When using expanded clay bedding, the layer should be no more than 3 cm to ensure sufficient insulation. If the floor on the glazed loggia is sealed, you can add dry sawdust to the expanded clay.

The screed is made on the basis of a cement-sand mixture, where the proportion depends on the ratio of water and sand, taking into account the brand of cement. For example, a semi-dry screed requires a minimum amount of water, and cement and sand are thoroughly mixed. Rare mortar cracks when drying, especially at high or low temperatures, and thick mortar is difficult to install.

For leveling the floor, the ideal consistency resembles mashed potatoes or thick sour cream. Such a solution completely covers expanded clay or other filler, which can float if the mixture is too liquid.

Laying gypsum fiber or fiber cement slabs is a dry screed that is laid on a surface that has been poured and carefully leveled with expanded clay. The joints are glued and connected with self-tapping screws at intervals of approximately the palm of your hand. After this, foiled polyethylene foam and laminate (insulated linoleum) are laid on the floor.

Construction of a simple wooden floor on joists

If you don’t know which floor is best for a loggia, then use environmentally friendly and durable materials - you won’t go wrong. For example, wood, along with clay, is one of the most ancient materials for finishing floors in residential premises.

Wood is a universal finishing material that can be used not only for finishing floors, but also for lining internal surfaces. The simplest floor arrangement on a loggia involves:

• cleaning and preparation for leveling the base;
• standard screed;
• waterproofing film over the dried screed;
• laying lags with fastening to the base;
• backfilling with expanded clay or other insulation;
• laying the base layer or base for finishing.

When laying the floor on joists, the height of the threshold of the balcony door and the insulation layer are taken into account. The cross-section of the log beam is selected individually, since sometimes it makes sense to raise the height of the floor surface on the loggia. For example, if full multi-layer insulation is expected. The timber sheathing is placed directly on the concrete slab of the balcony or loggia. It is also advisable to lay film waterproofing.

It is easier to align the logs on the loggia crosswise at the same intervals, since short bars are easier to adjust horizontally by checking with a level. Expanded clay is poured between the fixed bars into the finished cells. If such leveling is difficult, use 1-2 cross members. The board for finishing the floor is nailed directly onto the joists, but you don’t have to nail it, but lay a finished wooden board and secure it with a plinth.

Important addition: Don’t forget to design an aesthetic threshold that will hide the gap and difference in the floor level of the loggia and the living room.

Laminate floors

If the insulated loggia is small, then you should not skimp on the costs of high-quality laminate flooring. It will go a little, and a small difference in price will not significantly affect the budget. But at the first serious water leak, the base will get wet and warp, and then it will become clear why it was necessary to immediately choose an exclusively moisture-resistant laminate.

Tip: When laying a heated cable of a “warm floor” system under a laminate, select a laminated parquet board or laminate with the appropriate marking, although this will cost a little more.

Linoleum finished floors

One of the most practical coatings for finishing the loggia floor is insulated linoleum. It differs from ordinary thin linoleum in thickness and the back side is fibrous. An insulated one will cost a little more than usual, but you will feel the difference when you calmly stand on it without indoor slippers or warm socks.

The ideal option is to lay a single piece on the loggia. If the loggia has a complex configuration, the dimensions are calculated based on the widest point and length plus 2-5 cm for allowances. After purchasing such a piece, they spread it at home, let it rest, and after 2-3 days, when the edges have rested, the shape of the sheet is corrected with a sharp knife, pressing the edges around the perimeter with something heavy.

Attention: If, when trimming a piece of linoleum, you “missed” a little and cut off 2-3 cm of excess, do not worry, these defects will be hidden by the baseboard.

The final result of laying linoleum largely depends on the quality of the baseboard fastening. Experts recommend finding dismountable skirting boards in a hardware store, equipped with an elastic edge that ideally fits around the joining surfaces. Can be laid under the baseboard;

• wires and communications;
• electrical cable;
• landline phone;
• cable for router for internet;
• antenna cable for television.

A piece of plinth is measured with the expectation that there will be a connection with a fixing decorative corner. After all the segments have been laid and adjusted around the perimeter, we assemble the corners. Each corner is pressed tightly against the wall and fixed to the wall. The plinth between the corners is also attached to the wall with self-tapping screws with the same spacing.

A more complex option is joining pieces of linoleum. This often happens when, in order to save money, what is left from the renovation of residential premises is used for the loggia. To do this, use the method “ cold welding", tightly fitting the perfectly straight cut edges of the pieces. Place a strip under the joint dense material(for example, cardboard) to heat the adhesive applied to the back. The joint is heated with a hairdryer or a warm iron so that the glue for PVC products “sets.” It is undesirable for the glue to bleed through the seam - it is difficult to remove. When the glue has had its effect, the tape and thick cardboard are removed, leaving an even seam.

Insulating the floor on the loggia

The best completion of the arrangement or repair is the installation of a heated floor on the loggia. For high-quality insulation, all seams and cracks at the joints of surfaces must be carefully sealed. Full floor waterproofing is also required. Easiest to use polyurethane foam, silicone or façade sealant, but everything should look aesthetically pleasing, all traces of foam or silicone smudges should be cleaned off.

Warm floors require 2 layers:

• roughing worker with heating system;
• top finishing.

Everyone chooses the surface material to their taste, suitable:

• marble slabs;
• porcelain stoneware;
• tile;
• carpet covering;
• parquet board or laminate, etc.

For the main layer for insulation with warm cable or steam heating pipes, a certain height is assumed around the entire perimeter - 10-15 cm. The difference in levels is indicated by a threshold, so it is worth slightly raising the height of the loggia floor for the comfort of your feet.

Advice: We recommend entrusting this part of the arrangement to professionals. To save money, just prepare the base with a screed. You should not install Nexans heating cable yourself if you do not have the appropriate skills or the slightest idea about the “warm floor” system.

Finishing the loggia floor with tiles

Any tile is an ideal finish for an open loggia, especially over a cement screed. You can choose any color or pattern, texture or imitation natural material. Most often, ceramic tiles, tiles or porcelain stoneware are used. These are durable and reliable materials, especially if you do not test their strength by dropping heavy objects on the tiles. But this finish, in addition to a lot of “pluses”, has 2 “minuses”. Loving tiles, more or less slippery and cold. Usually a warm, soft rug is laid on top of such a floor.

The simplest installation option:

• cleaning old floors building materials and preparation for leveling;
• waterproofing with film material;
• laying insulation;
• *heavy or leveling with mixture;
• laying the tiles using the appropriate adhesive according to the usual method with “crosses” to maintain the same thickness of the seams;
• treatment with grout or sealant.

Tip: It is best to use durable porcelain tiles that imitate any natural stone or other surface. The only drawback when laying it is that it is difficult to cut, it is so strong. There are also special tiles for laying without joints, giving an ideal “solid” surface, for example, marbled.

How to make floors on a loggia - video: