Drawings of metal doors. DIY metal door from a simple corner

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In former times, the question of how to make a metal door with your own hands did not worry the residents of our country at all. Products made from sheet steel appeared in the 90s of the last century and did not look particularly aesthetically pleasing. Their purpose was to reliably close the entrance to the home. But over time, steel doors have also become decorative element facade of the building.

The main material is rolled metal. To make an ordinary door without particularly elaborate decoration, you need a sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 2 mm and a metal profile for the frame and door frame. A corner with a side of 4.5-5 cm or a corrugated pipe (square) of approximately the same cross-section will do.

The calculation of the material is made after taking measurements of the door opening. To be able to properly insulate the joints of the frame and the wall, the measurement must be reduced by 1-2 cm around the perimeter. After installation, the gaps can be filled with foam and prevent the flow of cold air into the cracks.

Measurements for the frame are taken from the inside of the box after it has been manufactured. To simultaneously purchase material, you can use the dimensions of the door frame in your calculations. In addition to the perimeter of these parts door block, you need to calculate the dimensions of the frame stiffeners. Their number and arrangement are quite arbitrary and must be designed independently. To find out the amount of angle or pipe, the lengths of all parts of the box and frame are summed up and another 10-15% is added for processing.

The calculation of the metal for the door leaf is made based on the size of the frame. The outer part of the canvas should overlap the junction of the frame and the box by 1.5-2 cm around the perimeter. Inner part doors can be sheathed not with metal sheets, but with MDF, clapboard or other lumber. If you want to have a completely iron door in the room, then the parameters of the inner sheet must match the dimensions of the frame frame.

Metal entrance doors can be insulated using EPS boards, mineral wool (isover) or similar materials. Gaps between pieces of foam and frame racks easy to fill with foam.

Some doors have non-standard sizes. The opening is too wide or high, the arched entrance must be divided into parts, one of which must be equal approximate sizes standard entrance door (no more than 1.5 by 2 m). For the rest, develop a design sketch using separate fixed frames sheathed in metal. They often serve as a decorative frame for the opening and include small windows, forged elements or other finishes.

Having selected the materials, you need to prepare the following tools:

grinder;
welding machine;
drill with metal drills;
construction square and tape measure.

For final finishing the door will require fittings, a lock, hinges and related decorative elements.

Making an iron door

Before you make an iron door with your own hands, you need to cut the metal into parts of the required length. To make the box even, without distortion, you will need to measure its diagonals before starting welding. To mark the ends of a corner or pipe, you will need a construction square or a template with a 450 cut. Apply the tool to 1 side of the corner or to the opposite sides of the corrugated pipe, mark the cutting line and cut off the excess metal according to the marking. In the same way, prepare the ends of the upper and lower trim and side profiles.

The parts should be folded, joining the cut ends. Using a tape measure, measure 2 diagonals of the rectangle. They must coincide completely, only then can all angles be considered right and the sides equal in pairs. Eliminate the identified defects with a grinder, cutting the corner in the right places. Determine the location of the lock and cut holes for the tongue or bolt.

Weld the box parts. After the metal has cooled, grind the welded areas with a grinder so that in the future the blade will fit tightly along the entire perimeter of the box.

How to make a frame for canvas

Measure carefully inner space boxes. In order for the door to move freely in the opening, subtract 1 cm from the length and width measurements. When manufacturing and installing the frame, this will allow the formation of gaps around the perimeter of the door.

The prepared parts are trimmed in the same way as the parts of the box, at an angle of 45°. Place the frame inside the box, inserting 5 mm thick pieces of metal to fix the gaps. Measure diagonals and eliminate defects if necessary.

Make marks at the location where the lock will be installed. Take out the profile on which the lock will be located and cut a hole for the bolts. Reconnect the frame parts inside the door frame, check the alignment of the holes. Weld the corners of the frame with inside. In several places, weld the door frame to the frame.

Cut out the middle vertical stiffener from metal. There can be 2 of them if the owner considers it necessary. Between the stiffener and the edge of the door, make a small frame for installing the lock: weld 2 short profiles horizontally and place a plate between them, if required by the method of fastening the lock body.

Cut and weld horizontal or inclined stiffeners inside the frame iron door. Their number and location are arbitrary. If the door will have a decorative window, frame it inside the frame

Install 2-3 hinges so that their card parts are inside the gap left during assembly. Grab the loops in assembled form to the corresponding parts of the frame and box by welding. Install the lock, adjust it so that the bolts can easily fit into the holes. If necessary, make a keyhole in the plate installed for fastening, cut threads for decorative overlays on the frame. Remove the lock.

How to make a door leaf

The sheet of metal must be marked according to the measurements taken from the frame part. On the porch and horizontal parts of the door, the overlap on the frame should be at least 1-1.5 cm. In the back part near the hinges, leave an overlap of about 0.5 cm or more, but so that it does not interfere with opening the door later.

Place the canvas under the finished box connected to the frame. Weld the sheet to the frame from the inside. Cut off the welding seams made to secure the box, open and close the door. If all operations were carried out accurately and carefully, then a hand-made metal door will move freely.

Having opened the door leaf, you need to finally weld the roughly tacked hinges. So that the welds do not interfere with closing, they are cleaned with an angle grinder (grinder). In the right place on the canvas, make a keyhole and threaded holes for decorative overlay. Finally secure the lock in place, check its operation and adjust if necessary.

Door interior trim

The master finishes the inside of the door with his own hands according to his own taste:

plywood;
clapboard;
Chipboard.

Typically, a metal sheet is not placed on the inside, which makes the massive structure a little lighter and saves on rental costs. If the frame was made of corrugated pipe, then the trim can be attached directly to it. The corner will require additional embedded wood elements. They can be secured to the door frame with self-tapping screws screwed into holes pre-drilled in the corner (side).

To insulate an iron entrance door, mineral wool or polystyrene foam is placed between the stiffeners and the frame frame. Elastic material such as mineral wool easily fills the entire space. Polystyrene foam or EPS has to be cut into pieces that may not fit closely to the frame parts. You can seal the gaps with foam.

When the insulation is laid, attach it yourself interior lining connecting to embedded bars or pipes will not be difficult. If desired, cover the surface with leatherette or leather, cover it with valuable wood veneer, or decorate it in another way. You can leave the decor to the discretion of the housewife, so she can do it herself. Strengthen the frame in the opening with anchors and fill the gaps with foam. Glue the seal.

The door can simply be painted with automotive enamel from a can. Finishing options include the use of forged elements. You can buy or order exclusive patterns from the workshop. If the door has glass insert, then the forged decor will provide additional security, playing the role of a lattice. If desired, the outer part of the door can be trimmed with wood, strengthening the panels or veneer on metal using reliable universal glue or self-tapping screws.

Self-manufacturing of a steel entrance door using inexpensive hammer painting will save significant money by the standards of the average person.

However, this option for its arrangement is only feasible for those who have at least minimal experience working with standard welding equipment, and for whom welding doors does not seem to be something completely impossible.

It is precisely these people who will be interested in learning about how they can weld a steel door with their own hands, without resorting to the mediation of third-party workers.

On preparatory stage The following operations are considered mandatory:

taking the dimensions of the entrance doorway;
procurement of all necessary materials;
preparing and bringing into working condition the tools necessary for welding metal door.

Let's look at each of these operations in more detail.

Measurement

Before you make an iron door yourself, you will need to take careful measurements entrance opening, the dimensions of which are recommended to be taken in several places at once. At the same time, the width is measured with special care, which determines the main characteristics of the future door.

The measurement results are necessarily recorded on a sketch of the product, the drawing of which must always be “at hand”.

Materials

As for the source materials for the door, the choice is determined by the preferences of the artist. However, most often this list includes such standard items as:

cold-rolled steel sheet of the appropriate size with a thickness of about 1.5-2 millimeters (for making the door leaf);
a set of blanks cut from profile pipe with the same wall thickness, and a cross-section of 40x20 millimeters (used for welding door frame and boxes);
canopies in the amount of 2 pieces and metal plates under them;
inexpensive and reliable lock.

When preparing the necessary tools, special attention is paid to choosing a suitable welding machine, which should be extremely easy to use and quite reliable.

In addition to it, you will definitely need a grinder with a set of disks, as well as an electric drill and measuring devices, by means of which the specified dimensions of the doors and frames are controlled during the welding process.

For ease of fixation of welded metal elements door structure, you should stock up on a pair of clamp-type clamps. They will significantly facilitate all installation operations.

It is possible to make a high-quality metal door if you follow all the instructions for its assembly and work carefully and carefully.

Cutting blanks

On initial stage The main work should be done on the manufacture and adjustment of individual door elements. For this purpose, first, according to the drawing, four profile blanks are prepared (cut out) used for arranging vertical racks boxes. Cross members are prepared in the same way, the size of which must exactly correspond to the numbers indicated in the sketch.

When installing a metal structure, a gap of about one centimeter should be left between the door block and the wall, which must be taken into account when setting the dimensions in the sketch.

Upon completion of this work, it will be possible to proceed to the preparation of frame elements door leaf, for which it is necessary to cut four horizontal jumpers and two side posts from the profile.

After this, using a cutter (grinder) you should adjust the previously prepared steel sheet to the dimensions of the resulting door frame.

After cutting and adjusting the parts of the metal structure, it is necessary to clean out sharp and protruding irregularities and remove burrs, and then you can proceed directly to assembling the entire door as a whole.

To facilitate subsequent processing of the canvas before painting, at this stage of work it is advisable to remove any rust from the surfaces of the workpieces. To do this, it is most convenient to use a special wire brush or coarse sandpaper.

Instructions for welding the door leaf

It is customary to begin welding a steel door yourself by making a supporting frame, onto which the finished and finished door is then hung.

However, based on personal experience Some users and non-professionals are advised to start installation work with the canvas.

This order will allow them to maintain all the necessary parameters within normal limits, without violating the right angles provided for by the design and preventing the door from skewing in the frontal plane.

So, according to the instructions, the entrance door begins to be made from the canvas, for which the metal sheet blank is first laid on a flat flat surface(table or workbench).

After laying the sheet, you should align it in the working plane and check it with a building level.

And only upon completion of this mandatory procedure the already cut frame blanks are laid out on a sheet with an indentation of about one centimeter from its edges and in strict compliance with the angular dimensions (90 degrees).

Having laid out the workpieces according to the sketch, it will be possible to grab only the crossbars in several places for welding, and then securely fix them with clamps.

These actions are followed by the same operations regarding the vertical posts, which are welded from the inside of the profile.

After roughly placing the structural elements, making sure that all dimensions (including corners) correspond to the sketch, you can proceed to their final fixation for welding.

Having received the metal frame of the door leaf of the correct shape, it is necessary to increase its rigidity by installing 2 intermediate jumpers, mounted in the same way as all previous parts (photo on the right).

At the end of this stage installation work All that remains is to thoroughly clean all the formed welded joints using a grinder.

When final welding profiles and sheets, it is not recommended to make continuous seams, which can lead to deformation of the metal surface.

Experts advise fixing profiles for welding at intervals of approximately 10 centimeters.

Features of door frame welding In the example under consideration, the outer supporting frame of the door consists of double, which are welded at right angles to each other.

Therefore, you first need to design the outer frame of the box by laying profiles around the perimeter of the finished canvas and fastening them with tacks.

Another profile rectangular blank is placed flat on the previous two with a slight overlap, ultimately forming the internal frame structure of the door frame.

After placing all the profiles forming the frame in their places, you should first lightly grab them, and then (after making sure that the placement is accurate) spot weld them together.

To carry out subsequent operations, it is necessary to separate the box from the canvas and place it on a workbench or work table. After a thorough examination of the external joints, you should sand them using a grinder.

On the inside, that is, where the sash is adjacent, stitches are not necessary.

At this point, the main part of the door welding work can be considered completed, after which all that remains is to install the awnings and lock.

It should be noted that self-made doors are practically not inferior in quality and reliability to factory-made products, provided that during their manufacture all the requirements of the instructions and dimensions were met.

To avoid possible distortions and inconsistencies during the work process, special attention should be paid to the adjustment of the main structural elements.

Every person who knows how to use a welding machine has a desire to make a beautiful and reliable iron door with their own hands. This work requires skills, but the product will be individual, guaranteed to be strong and durable. The process of welding such doors will not require fantastic financial costs and does not take much time. It is necessary to calculate the amount of material and prepare necessary tools, but first you need to take measurements and draw detailed drawing future product. We will describe in detail all manufacturing process and sequence of operations.

Preparatory work consists of choosing the design and construction of the future door, since each door is unique in size and can be outdoor or indoor. To understand how to weld a door correctly, you need to decide on the material, fittings and decor that you want to use. In order to calculate the number of components, you need to take measurements and make an accurate drawing. In progress preparatory work the following circumstances must be taken into account:

the recommended dimensions of the door are no more than 100 X 200 cm, otherwise it will be too heavy because additional stiffening ribs will be needed;
if the dimensions of the opening exceed 200 cm in height, you need to cover the excess part of the opening with insulated decorative or blind inserts;
if the opening is wider than 100 cm, you can install a blind insert or a hinged, securely fastened sash;
determine which way the door will open and select the appropriate locks;
calculate the location of the locks and the door peephole in accordance with the height of the residents;
determine the type of paint, insulation and interior decorative coating;
calculate the type and depth of the door frame fastening points, anti-removal pins and vertical fastening drive;
calculate parameters and determine the type of metal components.

It is very important to make sure that the box will be attached to a monolithic opening, and not to wooden or plastered fragile surfaces.

The drawing, made to scale, must indicate the location of the peephole, handles, keyholes, hinges (from 2 to 4 pieces), stiffeners and anti-removal devices and mechanisms. To adjust, the door leaf must be smaller than the frame, and it, in turn, must be two centimeters smaller than the doorway.

Required tools and materials

Fast and quality work is possible only if you have a convenient and properly organized workplace and working tools. Independent welding of metal doors requires a certain minimum of tools, which consists of the following set:

convenient and durable mounting table;
welding machine with a set of electrodes and a mask;
marking tool, felt-tip pen or sharpened chalk;
welding magnets with an angle of 90° and clamps;
angle grinder (grinder) with discs;
electric drill and screwdriver with a set of drills and bits;
hammer drill with carbide drills;
working electrical extension cords;
tape measure and building level.

After taking measurements and drawing up a detailed drawing, you can accurately calculate the amount and name of the metal required for welding the doors, as well as select locks, hinges and other components. The natural desire to emphasize one’s own individuality can influence the choice of material, and special attention must be paid here appearance, hinges, increased security of locks, anti-removal units and additional locking mechanisms. A standard set of materials for a metal door consists of the following elements:

for the front sheet, steel with a thickness of at least 2-3 mm is selected, according to the size of the door with the overlap of the frame, usually 100 X 210 cm;
the door frame is welded from a corner 3 X 3 cm;
for the door frame and stiffeners, use a 2.5 x 5 cm profiled pipe and strips;
Fastening the box to the opening is ensured by strips 3 mm thick in the amount of 4-6 pieces. and 30 cm long;
door hinges in the amount of 3 pieces;
selected fittings and mounting bolts;
primer and polymer paint;
insulation and interior decorative finishing.

It is important that the locks have high wear resistance, and the hinges are equipped with bearings that ensure noiselessness and long service life.

Sequence of welding operations

The door welding process is individual and depends on the specific project. It is necessary that the parameters welding machine allowed to operate stably at the existing network voltage. To maintain the required dimensions and angles, you need to check the measuring tool as often as possible, and also use special welding magnets when working. The sequence of operations consists of the step-by-step implementation of the following main points, namely:

the door frame is marked and cut, magnets are placed in the corners, tack welding is performed;
if the connection angle is violated, it is corrected, then the structure is finally welded;
seams on all sides are processed with a grinder;
then the door frame is cut out and welded with obligatory measurements of the diagonals;
a gap between the box and the frame is required of 3 mm on three sides and 5 mm on the side where the locks are attached;
Stiffening ribs are welded into the door frame, taking into account the location of the locks, peephole, anti-removal pins, and the drive of the vertical locks;
mark the front sheet and weld it to the frame and stiffeners with a seam of about 4 cm every 15-20 cm;
We weld the hinges, having previously drilled a hole for lubrication;
We attach the lock assembly, pins to the welded door and drill out all the necessary holes;
We weld plates for fastening to the frame, grind and prime the iron door;
Next, painting is done, and after drying, all the fittings are attached;
the door leaf is insulated and the inside is finished with final painting.

It is important to carry out the production process without haste, carefully measuring angles and achieving perfect work locks, vertical locks and rotary hinges.

Of course, this sequence does not reflect the nuances of each individual metal door, but the basic diagram is laid out correctly. Thickness, dimensions, and therefore weight are selected depending on the needs and individuality of each owner. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that additional mass will require an increase in rigidity, and this will lead to a greater load on the frame, hinges and door frame.

Results

We talked about how to calculate, mark and weld a metal door with your own hands, what tools are needed for this process, what sequence of actions must be followed. Quality comes with experience, but you will undoubtedly save significant financial resources, and also make a door to your taste and size. Have fun and successful work!

Entrance doors should not only be beautiful, but also durable, warm and reliable. Metal doors provide this combination of qualities. But not all of those on the market can boast of reliability - many of the inexpensive ones can literally be opened kitchen knife. Really beautiful and reliable steel doors are very expensive. If you have a welding machine and some welding skills, you can make an iron door with your own hands. Even taking into account the costs of purchasing materials, it will be 30-50% cheaper.

What is necessary

We will make an iron entrance door from a profile pipe and sheet metal. To work you will need a flat working surface, welding machine, drill, grinder, it’s nice to have something for measuring - a carpenter’s square, for example.

Standard metal doors. This is roughly what we will do

Materials you will need:

profiled pipe 40*40 mm, 40*20 mm;
a sheet of metal 2 mm thick, the size of a door leaf;
metal hinges are powerful enough to support a weight of about 100 kg;

To “ennoble” the door you will need metal paint (preferably hammer enamel), wooden slats, insulation (foam or mineral wool), plywood, OSB or other similar material, plastic or any other finishing material, door peephole, lock.

We cook the doors

First we cook the door frame. We make it from a profiled pipe 40*40 mm. Cut pieces to size. If there is rust on the pipe, we clean it. We fold the clean blanks, set the corners, and grab them together.

After welding, we check the corners and measure the diagonals. If there is even the slightest deviation, we correct it (hitting the floor with an angle usually helps, the main thing is not to overdo it).

We weld the hinges. We retreat about 20 cm from the bottom and top, mark, cook, making sure that they are on the same straight line. It will be very useful here laser level, and if it’s not there, you have to measure the distances many times to set it accurately.

We weld everything, check the diagonals, try it on. If everything is fine, you can weld the crossbars to increase the rigidity of the door leaf. We make them from the remains of a 40*20 mm pipe.

We clean all welding areas, removing beads - everything should be even and smooth. You can grind off the excess with a file, but it’s faster with a corresponding disc on an angle grinder.

So that the frame does not “bend” and then there is room for installation sealing gum, we raise the frame by welding metal plates.

The frame inside the frame is set at the required level (we check with a level or level so that everything is in the same plane), and we weld the counter hinges.

We place a sheet of metal on the finished frame and mark it. It should extend onto the door frame pipe by 3-10 mm. Only on the side of the hinges the overlap should be 3-5 mm, on the other sides it can be more. We place the sheet on the hinge side, mark the cutting line, and cut it using a grinder.

After cutting, we process burrs and other irregularities with a file until the edge is smooth. To speed up the process, you can use a grinder with an emery wheel. Then we lay out the sheet the way it should be and lightly grab the frame to the frame, the sheet also to the frame (not to the frame). The entire structure needs to be turned over, and it’s difficult to do it any other way.

We turn over the almost finished metal doors and weld the sheet along the perimeter of the frame, then to the intermediate stiffeners. There is no need to make continuous seams - there is no need for tightness; we weld in small sections at equal distances. At the same time, we make sure that the clean does not “lead.”

We cut off the welded frame from the door frame, turn the doors over and remove the welded sheet from the tacks. We clean the former welding areas. Now you can install the locks.

Insulation and finishing

Next we deal with insulation. Foam plastic 4 cm thick fits well into the welded frame of an iron door. We take it in small or medium density, since there will be no load on it. These metal doors took 4 sheets measuring 1*1 m.

We cut the PP to size, take polyurethane foam with weak expansion (if you take a regular one, the foam will displace). Stepping back about 1 cm from the edge, we apply it along the perimeter of the rectangle in which we place the foam, make a few more strips of foam in the middle, and lay insulation. We also pass through the remaining gaps between the PP and the pipe with foam.

You can also glue the insulation using a universal glue that is suitable for metal and foam, for example, “Moment”.

To save money, it was decided to use a sheet of oriented strand board available on the farm. The finishing is planned on a budget - self-adhesive film. As it turned out, this pair doesn’t go well together—the OSB putty took a lot of time. It would be much easier with plywood (moisture-resistant, furniture).

A sheet of OSB is laid on top of the metal doors that have already been made by hand on top of the insulation. It is secured around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. First, a hole is drilled for the self-tapping screw, then the fasteners are screwed in.

IN door frame We drill mounting holes - there are two of them on each segment. We paint the frame in suitable color(enamel in a can is taken). The painted frame must be taken outside somehow. IN drilled holes We insert the long mounting screws, grab them and drag it outside.

There is only one way out - putty. We take putty, spread it, wait until it dries, and sand it. Then again - a layer of putty, sanding again. So - until the result is normal.

On the second side we also attach OSB, but it’s already puttied and sanded in advance - it’s easier. We cut out holes for the eye-handles and try everything on. Next we start gluing the film. In our stores, the widest one available is 90 cm, the doors are clearly wider. Therefore, it was decided to make a finish with imitation paneling, for which rubber self-adhesive furniture molding was purchased.

The film will be pasted “figuratively”

We find the center on the door, put 45 cm on both sides, and outline a strip. The central strip of film will be glued here. We wet the surface with water (spray from a spray bottle), carefully, without bubbles, glue the film.

We cut off the missing pieces and glue them on too. We close the joints of the canvases with molding.

All that remains is to install the hand-made metal doors in place. They are installed at the entrance from the covered veranda to the house.

The doors look good. They turned out very heavy, can’t compare with store-bought ones. Most of the time was spent on finishing. If you choose another option, it will be much faster.

Video on the topic

You can weld steel doors from corners. One of the options is in the next video.

Metal doors are popular due to their reliability and safety. But industrial enterprises charge a significant fee for the manufacture of such structures. Meanwhile, doing all the work with your own hands is not particularly difficult - if only you had the desire and basic technical knowledge.

Advantages of homemade products

Creation metal structures manually is more difficult than using professional equipment. But there are no restrictions imposed by specific models and specifications. There is no risk that low-quality materials may be used to save money, which is often the sin of even large suppliers finished products. The design and execution perfectly meet the expectations of the owner of a house, garage or country cottage.

Considerations of economy are also important, especially now, when every ruble comes harder and harder over the years.

Design

There is no point in taking on production steel doors without drawings and diagrams. First of all, measure the height and width of the openings. The collected data is rewritten and an exact diagram is drawn from it, showing how wide and high the canvas will be. In most cases, you can get by with a 90x200 cm door block; if the dimensions are larger than this bar, an auxiliary fragment is placed on top.

The following options can be used to close the frame:

Sheet steel;
lattice steel structure;
glass part;
blind fragment;
swinging block.

You cannot bypass a single element in the project. If it is not specified or specified incorrectly, great difficulties will inevitably arise.

The number of loops included in the project is determined by the massiveness of the product. In almost every case, 2–4 hinges are enough; more complex doors are rarely used for domestic purposes. The dimensions of individual structures, the thickness of the frame sheets, and the type must be indicated. exterior finishing doors. It is also important to immediately understand the desired type of metal.

Tools and necessary materials

It is metal that accounts for the main costs as large manufacturers, and private masters. Almost all other materials cost noticeably less, the only exception being finishing coatings. Nevertheless, it is quite possible to make steel with your own hands. entrance structure within 15 thousand rubles. For this amount it is unlikely that you will be able to purchase even low-quality crafts from Asian countries.

Most often with your own hands door designs made from corrugated pipe with a cross-section of 2x4 cm. 18–22 linear meters Such pipes allow you to make a door block of typical dimensions - 100 cm in width and 200 cm in length.

If misunderstandings arise, you should start from the sketch; fortunately, it will not be difficult to find already calculated drawings of products for all occasions. The minimum thickness of metal sheets is 0.25 cm, and the remaining dimensions must match the dimensions of the opening.

When selecting loops experienced craftsmen Preference is given to those with a bearing.

Considering the significant mass of the structure, three hinges will clearly work better and more reliably than two.

And metal profile corners, fittings, thermal protection and decorative coatings may be required. When working, they consume resources abrasive wheels and drills, electrodes. In addition to a welding machine and a special table for working with it, it will be impossible to do without a corner grinding machine, a high-quality drill and an electric jigsaw.

If necessary, a hammer, a nail puller and a sharp ax will help to dismantle the old structure. It is sometimes more convenient to attach hardware wrench or a screwdriver.

Taking measurements

Custom sizes a door made by yourself is an important advantage over serial designs. Factory professionals charge extra for deviations from the most common dimensions. But first of all, you will have to evaluate the actual size of the opening and the door block that should be placed in it. Measurements are made with a tape measure and must be recorded on paper: you should not rely on memory in this case.

In addition to the size of the canvas, they also take into account the fact that there will be a box around its perimeter, which usually has a thickness of 20–30 mm.

Since the width in the area of the hinges is greater, and the rest of the perimeter of the canvas is less, you will always need to include the use of additional parts in the project. The widest size is taken into account, since only this condition allows the casing to be applied tightly enough. The height of the openings is measured along the side slopes on both sides. If the cavity is very high, it is necessary to reduce the opening or prepare large platbands.

When the height of the hole is small, it is better to cut the wall with a special tool than to make adjustments to the door under construction.

How to make an iron front door with your own hands? Having completed all the measurements and chosen the material and tools, you can immediately get to work. The technology requires mandatory inspection of walls.

In an opening with dimensions of more than 150x200 cm, it is recommended to install prefabricated boxes, the top or side of which is covered with an additional strip of metal. Wide recesses are equipped with a pair of auxiliary modules with glass. They will help make the door stronger and decorate it.

The door will have to open outwards, not inwards, to make it easier to escape in the event of an emergency.

They begin work by laying out the key parts of the box on a steel workbench and cutting them according to the markings. The accuracy of the cuts is checked by trial assembly and evaluation using carpenter's angles.

Much attention should be paid to the precise connection of all diagonals with corners. The seams remaining after welding are finished using an angle grinder.

Now you need to make blanks for the frame; steel corners are used on them. When working, the templates are rectangular structures that are strictly given thickness. The main gaps from the frame to the box in the lock area are approximately 0.5 cm, and on the other three sides of the structure they are 0.3 cm. The profile is marked and cut, placed in the box and the accuracy of the diagonal is checked. The side profiles are equipped with slots for locks.

To weld a metal door yourself, you need to start by attaching the corners of the frames and welding the frames at several points around the perimeter. Then a strip of metal is welded onto the frame, holding the skin in place, and a stiffener is welded into the frame. Immediately after this, you need to clean the resulting seams and mark the canvas.

Now you can cut the sheets with a grinder and weld them to the frame. After this, you need to insert and weld additional stiffeners.

The location for mounting the lock is marked directly on the canvas; There they drill a well and bring it to the desired condition using a file. Then the holes for the lock are prepared and the threads are cut.

Once the installation of the lock is completed, you can take hold of the hinges, welding them to the frame of the door leaf and to the door frame. It is worth noting that the box needs to be opened and the hinge parts secured inside using a welding machine.

Often the work does not end there and a door and window are built.

In the prepared recess you can put not only glass, but also a decorative steel grille made using the cold forging. As practice shows, in terms of its ability to transmit light, such a solution is no worse, and in terms of design characteristics it is even better than a simple glazed hole. If you want to conserve heat in the room as much as possible, however, the grille can be combined with a double-glazed window. If desired, you can try other design solutions.

Box making process

In addition to the door itself, no matter how convenient and high-quality it is, you will definitely need a box. The easiest way to create it is using a woodworking machine; the initial component is planed board. It is worth checking the wood to see if it has dried well, otherwise the entire structure can quickly become warped.

The necessary elements will also be the following:

saws;
hammers;
slats;
screwdrivers;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
other metal fasteners.

On entrance doors the main part of the box is mainly made of metal, which is welded. But wood has its own advantage - it is easy to process. But the fibreboard does not last long enough, and soon the box will need to be replaced. When choosing wood, you should pay attention to dark spots. If they exist, then this indicates a violation of the drying technology. Such defects cannot be masked even with several layers of high-quality paint.

The marking is first made along the upper, then along the lower borders. To avoid mistakes, you need to add the crossbar and threshold accordingly. Having completed the blanks according to the notches made, they are adjusted to the dimensions of the door.

As soon as the hinges are hung and the door is installed in place, it is adjusted again to eliminate the appearance of gaps. For your information: if any moment in the work inspires concern, there are doubts that not everything will be done, then you need to turn to professional craftsmen.

Installation of double-leaf doors

Double doors are installed slightly differently than single doors. Moreover, they have their own divisions within them that need to be taken into account. So, some doors with a pair of leaves swing open, while others slide apart. If the door is already installed, it is dismantled as carefully as possible.

To save your old boxes, do this:

remove platbands;
remove cement and foam;
Unscrew screws or cut nails.

After removing the box, remove the remaining leveling layers using a hammer drill. If the old shell is made according to all the rules and is well preserved, it is left untouched, only by removing the mounting foam. As with a single-leaf door, you will need to measure the opening. But in addition to it, adjacent planes are also measured. The box beam is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

The most practical tool is a miter saw, but if you don't have one, you can use a fine-tooth hacksaw. Then the hinges are cut into the vertical parts of the opening; a router is used for this purpose. In a pinch, a chisel and a hammer can help replace it; and it will be even easier to use overlapping insect loops. The structure is pulled together using self-tapping screws. To keep the box intact, before inserting the fasteners, holes are prepared that are 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws.

The box in the opening is placed exactly level, and you need to monitor not only the verticals, but also so that the structure does not leave the contour of the recess even with a small edge. Having attached the rollers to the canvases, marking the height of the guides for them, draw a line along the level and screw a 4–5 cm thick block along it to the wall. The guides are mounted on the block, and the door is hung from it. It is always necessary to reserve a technological gap from the sashes to the frame.

To prevent cold air and precipitation from entering the room, this gap is filled with foam.

How to make a warm door at home?

But even a hermetically sealed door structure cannot by itself become a reliable barrier to frost. To avoid this negative phenomena, you will have to insulate it. Most often, polystyrene foam and polystyrene are used for this, which are converted into slabs of various thicknesses in production. Such materials do not collapse when moistened, so they are allowed to be used for insulation of all premises, regardless of climatic conditions

. The frame is made of dry timber, which should not damage the metal sheets.

Materials are placed in the spaces between the bars or placed apart. They can be attached mechanically or with glue.

You should try to keep the gaps separating the insulation from the frame to a minimum.

After finishing the work, wait a while and check if there are any gaps. A layer of facing material is placed on top of the insulation. It is very important that it is not only durable, but also as elegant as possible.

Finishing and decor

Numerous teams of builders and designers are ready to finish doors, even those made independently. But the fees for their services are often excessive and calculated on an arbitrary basis. And at the same time, all the same work can be done with your own hands in the shortest possible time.

Door openings can be covered with the following materials:
laminate;
decorative stone;
clapboard (plastic or wooden);

siding.