Drawings of home stoves. Cooking stove for a summer kitchen: review of factory models and diagram of laying a brick slab

Stove heating country houses Today he is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, considering that special atmosphere And home warmth, which can be created by a simple brick stove, even made with your own hands. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled.

The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

• Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:
• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of poisoning carbon monoxide which appears when used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell furnaces, modified units can have hob and oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered all possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house intended for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then best option, than “Swedish” or “cap” cannot be found. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device, equipped with a hob. The ideal option is fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in the shortest possible time. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. Oven in country house with water or other type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, in summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so best shape the smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​​​are adjusted to the dimensions standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the quantity required material It is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb and level for control geometric parameters masonry
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows what benefits it provides right choice places.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from brick chimney There must be at least 130 mm of free space to the wooden elements of the ceiling or roof. If an uninsulated ceramic or steel pipe is used, the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen, the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the stove is being built in a finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For the middle zone, it is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent the leakage of cement laitance through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is installed at a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or a construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose the optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Decide on the type of heating device, make preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason you are not satisfied with them, then you can look for ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give necessary recommendations during construction.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented ordering diagram you can see heating unit, equipped with a convenient hob and drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, part with outside propped up with a metal corner or wooden slats.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks installed on the edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. For this purpose, both mineral insulation and expanded clay are used. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how stove doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use a hob and a water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely arranged metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it of ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood hardwood is considered - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen practically do not leave soot. By the way, experienced stove makers They recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), mothballs, etc. Good effect This can hardly be achieved, but significant damage can be caused to nearby buildings and one’s own health.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Folding the unit is not only possible experienced craftsmen, but also for green beginners. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe work for many years of operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, due to my studies in technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

A stove is a multifunctional, technically complex structure. Within its boundaries, fuel is processed, heat is produced and combustion products are removed to the outside. If you plan to lay a stove with your own hands, you must strictly follow the rules that have been proven in practice for centuries, guaranteeing normal work unit.

Those who want to know how to perfectly build brick stove, we will find detailed information on all important issues of interest independent master. In the presented article, the technological specifics of the structure are presented in great detail, the main postulates of stove makers and significant nuances are scrupulously listed.

The information we provide will provide effective assistance in the construction of a brick kiln. All its components will perform their duties flawlessly, and the structure itself will last long years no complaints. To help home craftsmen, we have selected sequence diagrams, photographs, and video recommendations.

Before you start building a stove, you should decide on its purpose. Heating, cooking and drying units have significant design differences that must initially be taken into account. There is also a reasonable difference in the procedures developed by stove makers for precise brick laying.

There are many stove designs that can be divided into groups according to their purpose:

Image gallery

Today there are many options for heating a dacha: centralized gas, boilers, electric heaters.

But if all this is not possible to implement due to the area’s remoteness from civilization, a DIY brick stove for a summer house will become great solution.

Reliable and durable - it will gather around itself more than one generation of household members, providing the house with warmth and filling it with comfort.

The services of a good stove maker are not a cheap pleasure. Therefore, if you decide to implement a brick stove project at your dacha, it will be useful for you to read this article, in which we will tell you about the operating principle, features and layout of the stove structure.

A brick stove can become not only a functional device, but also the main highlight of the interior if it is used correctly. Today there are many ways to beautifully veneer and decorate a stone stove.

No matter how much time has passed since the appearance of the first stove designs and no matter how far home heating technologies have come, the stone stove still does not lose its relevance. Compared to other types of heating (electricity, gas), it is more economical. At the same time, thick stone walls allow you to retain heat for another day after the firewood burns out.

According to their purpose, furnaces are divided into the following types:

• heating;
• cooking;
• multifunctional;
• combined.

• combustion chamber, which is purchased ready-made or lined with fireclay bricks;
• an ash pit where ashes are collected;
• chimney.

This type of design also includes a fireplace with an open or closed firebox. It is used not only for decorative purposes, but also allows you to effectively heat a room of 15-20 square meters. meters.

Depending on the selected material, wall thickness, masonry scheme, heating stoves may have different heat output.

The most popular type of stove is the one-brick design. This allows the walls to be heated to 60 0 C. The famous Dutch ovens are laid out according to this scheme.

In terms of dimensions, the heating stove can be wide and flat, or it can have an elongated rectangular shape. It all depends on the area of ​​the room, interior style and personal preferences of the owners.

Tiled tiles are usually used for lining such a stove. decorative plaster, decorative rock.

Brick heating stoves in the form of a three-sided prism look very stylish and original, but a beginner cannot implement this option, since it requires a lot of experience. Of great difficulty is the cutting of bricks and the requirements for maintaining an angle strictly at 60 0.

Round stoves, which are laid out according to the design of the famous Russian furnace engineer V.E. Grum-Grizhimailo, also look beautiful and unusual. The furnace operates on the principle of free movement of gases. To ensure tightness, the outside of the structure is lined sheet metal. Such a stove can heat a large country mansion and will become a real decoration for any home.

The design of the stove consists of a brick body, inside of which there is a combustion chamber, an ash pan, and a chimney. There is a metal plate on top (an oven can be built in).

1. A heating and cooking stove is already a multifunctional design.

This is a more difficult project to implement, as it consists of:

• combustion chamber;
• chimney;
• ash pan;
• hob;
• oven.

The stove looks massive and is usually chosen for dachas where there is no other heating option.

In our country, heating and cooking stoves are the most popular, allowing you to heat the house and prepare a delicious dinner for the whole family.

It can be additionally equipped with a drying chamber, where you can make preparations for the summer: mushrooms, berries, fruits. In cold and damp weather, you can quickly and safely dry clothes and shoes in this chamber.

By the way, ovens with drying chambers were first invented in the countries of Northern Scandinavia, where hunters and fishermen needed to dry clothes and boots in one night.

Many schemes of heating and cooking stoves have additional devices in the form of a comfortable bench, drying for firewood, an oven, and a water-heating tank.

Construction of a stove for a summer residence and its features

The main elements of any brick stove for a summer residence are:

10 basic rules for laying a country stove

Which brick stove to choose for your dacha?

The choice of stove design determines the size and type of room. Large cottages will require a massive stove structure with thick walls, which will take a long time to heat up, but at the same time be able to maintain the temperature for a long time. Building such a stove is not an easy task. This will require some experience and knowledge.

But even a beginner can handle a small stove for heating a small dacha if you follow the diagram clearly and do not change the laying rules.

The first place in the popularity of heating and cooking stoves is worthily taken by the Swede, which enjoys well-deserved love and respect among Russian stove makers.

This design is a compact, ergonomic shape with a small cooking surface and a three-channel chamber. It is ideal for a small cottage, the length ranges from 880 to 1250 mm.

For the location of such a stove, the place most often chosen is between the kitchen and the living room. Thus, the stove performs a double function: it serves for cooking and decorates the living room with a fireplace.

Today you can find hundreds of different layouts for laying a Swedish stove with a hob on the Internet, so it won’t be difficult to implement it for your dacha. Many stove makers contributed to standard scheme masonry is an additional option, so each design is named after its creator: Buslaev’s, Kuznetsov’s stove, etc. But the principle of operation in them is the same.

Traditionally, a Russian stove can be called a bulky, massive structure, which is decorated not only with a hob with an oven, but also with a spacious bench.

This stove is not only a functional device for cooking, but also a place for relaxation. It allows you to warm up the room well, retaining heat for a long time, and has a beneficial effect on the human body, thanks to which the owners of such stoves are less susceptible to colds.

The building usually has two fireboxes (main and additional). Thanks to the special design of the oven, heating is carried out evenly, from bottom to top. Any solid fuel is suitable for kindling, and there are no particularly strict requirements for the materials for laying a Russian stove.

A special place among small heating and cooking stoves is occupied by the little V.A. Potapova, created by a famous engineer at the beginning of the 20th century. To lay it, you need only 211 bricks, and the dimensions of the stove are only 630 * 510 mm.

Moreover, this little thing contains a single-burner stove, a small oven for baking and a hood. This type of stove would be an excellent solution for a small garden house or one-room cottages.

In this article, we invite you to study the rules and main points of laying a small heating and cooking stove.

Do-it-yourself stove laying

Step 1. Select a brick and prepare tools

Which brick to choose for laying a small country stove? We will need 2 types of bricks: fireclay (heat-resistant) for the construction of the firebox and red ceramic (at least M-150). You should not save on materials, further operational properties, oven safety and efficiency.

Fireclay brick can be easily recognized by its yellowish color and porous surface. The composition of this material includes refractory clay and crumbs. This material, in addition to its heat-resistant properties, is also valued for its ability to accumulate heat for a long time. Even after the firewood has completely died out, such a stove is capable of giving off heat for a long time.

Heat-resistant fireclay bricks can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C, so the combustion chamber must be made exclusively of this material.

The smaller the mass of fireclay bricks, the greater the number of pores it contains, which are created by aluminum oxide. Such a brick will conduct heat very well. The cost of this material is almost 5 times higher than the price of red brick, but there is no need to save.

But it’s also not worth laying out the entire stove from fireclay bricks; the outer part of the structure doesn’t get very hot, and it looks red ceramic brick more attractive.

When choosing bricks for the stove, pay attention to color and shape.

You can test the material. If you throw a brick from a height of 1.5 meters and it doesn’t break, take this batch. But a bad, overexposed brick can split into several parts. Such a brick makes a dull sound when falling.

The brand of brick for lining the furnace should be M150 or M200. Digit in in this case means how much weight the brick can withstand per 1 cm 3.

Do not use sand-lime or hollow bricks. It's not even about the ability to withstand high temperatures - they can handle that. Sand-lime brick It conducts heat poorly and a room with such a stove will not be very comfortable.

For masonry mortar you will need sand, red oven clay and water. It directly depends on its quality and consistency. appearance and durability of the oven. To prepare it, you should use red oven clay of medium liquid. When frozen, it should not fall off or crumble.

The masonry will be made with a thickness of 0.5 mm, in this case the precious heat will not escape quickly.

You can also use ready-made masonry mortar for construction, which is sold in stores. Usually it contains various impurities that add strength and heat resistance to the structure. In this case, it will be enough to dilute the dry mixture with water and bring it to a homogeneous state using a construction mixer.

The consistency of this solution should resemble thick sour cream. If the mortar rolls off the trowel, you need to add more dry mixture. If it turns out to be too thick, then it will be difficult to work with it and make thin seams. Add some cold water and stir again.

So, to build a furnace, we will need following materials:

• Masonry mortar (sand, red oven clay).
• Red ceramic brick M150 – 120 pieces.
• Fireclay bricks – 40 pieces.
• Foundation material (cement, graphite, sand).
• Ruberoid.
• Asbestos cord, galvanized wire.
• Plywood or boards for creating formwork.
• Reinforcing mesh for foundation construction.
• Grate.
• Metal stove for one burner (cast iron).
• Ash pan and ash pan (blower) door.
• Cast iron firebox door.
• Chimney duct damper.
• Chimney view.
• Metal chimney cap.

Tools needed to build a furnace.

• Building level.
• Shovel
• Construction marker.
• Goniometer.
• Spatula, rule.
• Master OK.
• Measuring tape (roulette).
• Construction plumb.

Important! When laying a furnace, much depends on the quality of the clay. Ideally, use red river clay of medium fat content, which has been in the open air for at least 2 years. Make exactly as much solution as you can handle in “1 go”. The solution quickly becomes thick and difficult to work with.

Step 2. Preparing bricks for laying the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, it is necessary to lay out all the bricks in advance and prepare them according to the ordering scheme.

This stage includes dividing the brick into ½ or ¼ parts and cutting off the corners.

Study the diagram carefully and see which pieces of bricks you will need for each row.

If necessary, you can number the brick so that later it is easy to navigate which row to insert it into.

How to properly split a brick? Before “beating off” the required part of the brick, according to the diagram, you first need to make a groove. This can be done using a hacksaw or file.

To make ½ brick, make 1 groove.

For 1/6 or 1/8 brick, make a groove on all sides of the brick.

Step 3. Choosing a location for the oven

This is very important stage in laying the furnace, which is advisable to do even at the stage of building a house.

But there are times when the decision to install a stove arises among home owners already during the operation of their dacha. In this case, determine the place where it will be easiest to remove the chimney.

It is also important to evaluate the distance between the stove and windows and doors. After all, cold air blowing from the doors can interfere with the natural circulation of heat in the house, reducing the efficiency of the stove.

In addition, the stove should not interfere with free movement around the room. It should become one with the space without creating inconvenience. In many ways, the placement of the stove depends on the purpose.

The heating and cooking model is best placed in the kitchen, and the fireplace stove will look beautiful in the living room.

• The distance to the nearest wall should be at least 25 cm.
• The chimney must not pass through beams.
• The floor and wall will have to be lined with fire-resistant material.
• It is better to place the fireplace near the inner wall of the house. To increase efficiency, it makes sense to install a stove in the space between the kitchen and living room. Thus, one stove will heat two rooms at once.

An excellent place to place the stove is the corner of the room, only if there is no Entrance door, from which cold air will blow out the flame.

Step 4. Construction of the foundation

To build a brick kiln, it is necessary to make a separate foundation. If it is laid during the same cycle as the construction of a house, completing it is not a difficult task.

If you decide to lay the stove after the completion of the general construction, then it will be necessary to remove part of the finished floor and go deep into the ground.

Why is it so important to perform a separate foundation? A brick oven, no matter what size it is, has a lot of weight, which will create a lot of pressure on the foundation. When shrinking, the house will sag. This should in no way affect the shape or design of the stove.

That is, the general foundation of the house should not pull the stove along with it, as this can lead to a violation of its sealing and deterioration of its technical properties.

Attention! Before laying bricks on the mortar, lay out all the bricks “dry”. First, it will allow you to see if you have enough material. And secondly, you will be able to see difficult moments at the draft stage that you will have to pay special attention to.

Step 5. Laying the stove

Attention! Before laying the stove, place the bricks in a bowl of cold water so that they absorb moisture. This way they will not draw water from the masonry mortar.

Fill this gap with sand. The entire area under the stove will be practically occupied by grates, which will ensure good and easy care of the stove, as well as complete burning of the wood.

We block the ash door with a brick.

Installation of the combustion door

We install the combustion door, having previously wrapped it with asbestos cord. To make it easier to install, place the door on a thick wire and support it with bricks on both sides. Then these bricks will need to be removed.

• 6th row. Closes the furnace door.

Here we begin to form a smoke channel pipe, creating overlaps for two vertical channels.

We lay the base of the firebox, which is made of fireclay bricks.

• From rows 7-9 we lay out the firebox with fireclay bricks according to the diagram.

In this row, two bricks covering the grate should be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

• Row 10 - cover the oven. We create a partition from brick, raising it by 2 cm. Apply a clay-sand mortar to the oven, to the level of the partition. We are preparing a place for installing a hob.

It is necessary to make recesses in the bricks for reliable fixation with the slab and create thermal niches for the expansion of the metal. Immediately place the slab on a dry surface and number the bricks - this will make it easy for you to later lay the brick on the mortar and avoid making mistakes with the correct recesses for the slab.

We lay an asbestos strip on the brick (to expand the metal).

Step 6. Exit the chimney through the roof

This is a responsible step that should ensure complete safety of the furnace operation.

Follow the SNIP standards when installing a brick pipe through the roof. According to these standards, the gap between the roof and the chimney must be at least 13-25 cm.

Around the place where the pipe passes through the roof, it is necessary to insulate it with thermal insulation materials. This will provide reliable protection from cold air blasts and ensure reliable fire safety.

If the stove is being installed in an already residential building with a finished roof, it will be necessary to remove part of the roof. After installing the pipe, you will need to completely ensure the integrity of the roof in this place so that during rain or snow, moisture does not get inside.

To waterproof a stone pipe, a special plate is used, which resembles a kind of pedestal around the chimney. The joining of slate and metal plate is done using sealant.

If you want to simplify the task, then the chimney will not be difficult to complete using steel pipes kind of sandwich. They have a stylish look and are easy to assemble. In addition, they have much less weight than brick and will not create as much pressure on the foundation.

When determining the required height of the chimney, be guided not only by the height of the roof, but also by the height of the ridge.

The efficiency of heating the room and the presence of draft directly depend on correctly calculated parameters.

The edge of the pipe must protrude above the “ridge” of the roof by at least 0.5 meters, otherwise the turbulence that forms around the roof can prevent good draft and will constantly blow cold air into the chimney.

We complete the construction of the chimney with a metal grate. It will prevent debris from entering the chimney.

We put a metal cap on top, which reliably protects the pipe from precipitation.

Step 7. Furnace lining

There are many ways to beautifully veneer a stove for a summer cottage.

Clinker tiles, tiled tiles, decorative plaster, artificial stone, etc. can be used as decorative materials.

Or you can simply leave the stove in its original form, especially if you bought high-quality, beautiful brick.

Keep in mind that any facing material reduces heat transfer. Therefore, if you do not want to lose thermal properties, you can cover the stove with a thin layer of decorative plaster.

Step 8. Lighting the stove

After completely lining the furnace, you need to take a technological break for 10-14 days until the structure is completely dried. Leave the door wide open.

When you are sure that the masonry mortar is completely dry, you can carry out the first test firing of the stove. There is no need to rush and immediately, after laying, light the firewood.

Premature lighting of a damp stove can cause it to crack. For the first time, use ¼ of the firewood, add small logs. This will allow the structure to dry well from the inside. Do not exceed the maximum temperature of 60-65 degrees in the first week of operation.

• Do not use trash for kindling.
• The firebox door must be closed when lighting.
• Warm up the oven gradually, do not immediately turn on high heat.
• Use high-quality, well-dried firewood.

For ease of use of a country stove, you can make a stylish one with your own hands, which will become a decorative and functional element in your home.

As you can see, if you follow a clear ordering scheme, it is not so difficult to build a beautiful and high-quality country stove.

Video: Laying a brick kiln “dry”

Below we provide detailed master class on laying a brick stove for a summer cottage.

Video. Master class on laying a stove for a summer residence

Since ancient times, heating and cooking stoves have been present in houses. They acted as the main component of any rural home. Nowadays, people living in private houses in the city also do not refuse to install this structure. It has not lost its functionality, so it is actively used by many.

Even if the house has a heating system running on gas or electricity, many people do not want to turn it on at full power on autumn days when the house becomes cool. In this case, a stove will help ensure a comfortable microclimate in your home. It is enough to throw a few logs into the firebox and your home will quickly become warm.

If you decide to acquire this structure in your home, then the task of its construction must be approached with all seriousness, since the stove is built with the expectation that it will last for decades. It doesn’t matter whether you build a heating stove with your own hands or a stove with a stove. Therefore, if mistakes are made during the construction process, it will be extremely difficult to correct them later.

Speaking about stoves, we note that they are divided into structures for single and two-story houses. The main difference between them is the height. The structure being built may have a slab or be used only for heating. In the second case, the slab in it is like compound element absent. The height of a do-it-yourself oven depends on the number of rows in the design. Next, we will look in detail at how to build a stove with your own hands in a private house.

Materials for masonry

Calculation of materials is extremely important point when laying a stove with your own hands. In addition, the quality of the structure affects its service life. The stovetop oven we are looking at in this article typically measures 90 x 90 cm at the base. As for its height, the structure does not reach its highest point to the ceiling of the first floor by 2.1 m.

Before you start building a stove with your own hands, need to purchase materials in sufficient quantities that will be used in its construction. During the work you will need:

• red brick M150 in the amount of 1085 pcs.;
• sand-lime brick for the construction of a firebox, 150 pcs. Instead, you can use fireclay;
• sand – 80-100 buckets;
• clay – 200 kg;
• corner 50x50 mm and 40x40 mm;
• steel wire 2 mm - 25 m;
• metal sheet 4 mm 1.5 × 1.5 m;
• roofing felt -3 m;
• asbestos cord 5 mm - 10 m;
• wall insulation material.

The construction of the foundation also requires the preparation of appropriate materials:

• sand;
• cement;
• fittings;
• crushed stone;
• boards for formwork.

In addition, to build a full-fledged stove with a stove with your own hands, which can be used for heating your home and cooking, you will need to purchase cast iron parts:

• grate - 1 pc.;
• hob with two burners - 1 piece;
• valves - 3 pcs.;
• two doors for the combustion chamber and the blower, 1 pc. each;
• cleaning doors - 5 pcs.

After the materials have been prepared and the builder has them at his disposal necessary tools, you can move on to the active phase of work.

Foundation

Accepting the fact that the structure being built has a large mass, when constructing a foundation with your own hands deepen it no less than 80 cm. However, when carrying out foundation work, the climatic features of the area of ​​residence, as well as the depth of freezing, should be taken into account. You can find out about this from local builders. Taking into account all these points, a stove built with your own hands according to the chosen scheme will last a long time.

The pit for the foundation being constructed must have a square shape. As for its dimensions, they should be 1.2 × 1.2 m. You can easily dig it with your own hands, using hand tools- a shovel.

After completion of the excavation work, the bottom of the pit is compacted. Then at the bottom a sand cushion is arranged, for which it is important to withstand optimal thickness layer equal to 10-15 cm. Next, crushed stone is poured in a layer of 15 cm, which after laying it needs to be compacted, and then install the formwork. This must be done with the expectation that it will pass through the entire thickness of the foundation.

Pouring the foundation for the future furnace is carried out in several stages. The first layers may consist of mortar, which is made from cement and pebbles. Upper layer need to be filled with concrete made from sand and cement. Taking into account the weight of the structure, hardening of the foundation should take a long time, at least three weeks. This is important, because otherwise a stove built with your own hands, even in accordance with the selected scheme, will not last long. A crack in the foundation will require repairs.

When the base of the oven with the stove has gained sufficient strength, the formwork is removed, and the upper part of the foundation is covered with waterproofing material– three layers of roofing material. The first brick laying with your own hands will be done further on it.

Compared to a fireplace, the design of a stove with your own hands is more complex. Therefore, the construction scheme must be strictly observed.

Due to the fact that the area of ​​the foundation is larger than the base, markings should be made on the waterproofing. After this, you can proceed to laying the first row.

If a vertical layout of rows is used, then it must be remembered that the chimney channels should not be too narrow. Their minimum size is 13 × 13 centimeters.

The sequential layout scheme for a heating and cooking furnace assumes the following: already from the first rows of masonry, its layout should include a blower chamber. When laying the second row begins, a blower door is installed, which is wrapped with asbestos cord before being installed in the opening intended for it.

When installing the door, a wire is wound around it, which is clamped between two bricks. When it is completely framed with masonry, the wire is bent to the sides.

When they reach the fourth row of the furnace, holes are marked on it for the circulation of heated air. On the fifth stage, the firebox grate is laid. When constructing the firebox wall and its threshold, it is permissible to use sand-lime brick.

The combustion door is installed on the sixth row. It, just like the blower, is wrapped with asbestos cord.

From rows 6 to 10, special attention must be paid to the shape of the holes, which will ensure air movement inside the structure. The tenth row, if possible, must be fastened with a frame welded from a corner. On the 11th row, a hob is placed on a pre-laid asbestos pad.

The corner is laid on the seventeenth row. The 18th row of masonry will lie on it, which will complete the framing of the chamber above the slab.

On the 19th-20th rows of masonry, a drying chamber is formed. On the 19th row, the cleaning door is installed.

Once again the metal corner is laid on the 24th row of masonry. On him a continuous row of bricks will be laid, which will become the ceiling of the dryer.

The cleaning door is installed on the 25th row.

On the 30th row, two valves are installed.

All subsequent rows up to the 38th are performed according to the scheme, and the next ones form part of the furnace that goes to the second floor. Note that this part of the furnace has a different numbering in order. Its laying is carried out according to the following scheme:

• The door installation is performed on the 2-3rd row. It is used for cleaning;
• installation of the chimney damper is carried out on the 27th row;
• the part of the stove installed on the second floor should have the shape of a wide chimney. It must be equipped with a valve and a chamber. It is gradually replaced by a narrow pipe, which begins at the level of the 32nd row.

An umbrella is placed on the top of the pipe, which prevents dust and moisture from getting inside it.

Furnace diagrams

Do-it-yourself stoves that are built in private homes can currently be divided into two groups:

• modern devices;
• outdated designs.

Building outdated structures with your own hands is not a problem. However, they have an imperfect design, so most often houses have stoves and stoves, which differ in their functionality.

If you decide to build a stove with a stove in your home or just a heating structure with your own hands, then you need to approach the task of choosing them with all seriousness. Familiarization with the advantages of stoves of different designs will allow you to make the right choice. If a private house already has a stove with an old-style stove, then in this case there is no need to build the structure from scratch. It is enough to remodel it and you will have equipment for heating and cooking at your disposal.

To avoid mistakes during the remodeling process, you should first familiarize yourself with the video and various instructions on how professionals do this work. It is also necessary to use drawings during work. By applying the knowledge gained, you will be able to get a good result upon completion of the work - you will have a stove with a stove, built with your own hands.

One of the common types of stoves is two-tier. If we talk about its structure, then we note that it consists of two designs- one stands on top of the other. Each part of this structure has dimensions of 165x51x238 cm. When the furnace is operating, the heat transfer in the lower part is 3200 kcal/h, and in the upper part - 2600 kcal/h.

When building such a structure with your own hands, the two structures are separated from each other by masonry made of bricks with voids. This allows you to reduce the weight of the stove and save during its construction a certain amount of material. The lining, which is used to fill the space between the upper and lower oven, also acts as a base for the first structure.

Both the upper and the lower ovens have exactly the same design. In the case under consideration, a ductless smoke circulation system is implemented. Once in the firebox, the gases move into the upper cap, which is equipped with a special nozzle. After the gases cool, they sink to the bottom to the level of the firebox. Then they go into the chimney through the underpass.

For a lower stove, the chimney runs through the top, so the heating surface is smaller. Included top structure There is a separate chimney. The process of laying it does not contain any difficult moments. The gas movement pattern is also simple. There is a door in the back wall through which the lower structure must be cleaned. Cleaning the upper structure must be done through the door located in the side wall. Either coal or anthracite can be used as fuel for a two-tier stove. Each of the pipes created in this furnace is additionally equipped with a valve.

A reinforced concrete slab is often used to cover the top of voids. This type of overlap provides stability, and in addition makes the furnace structure as a whole more stable. When performing masonry of such volume, errors must be excluded. Indeed, if they occur, repairs will be extremely difficult.

Great care should be taken in the design of the chimney located in the lower structure of the furnace. If there are leaks in the masonry, then in this case You may experience heat leakage from the wall, which separates the pipes on the second floor. Note that this will also happen when the smoke valves are closed.

Ovens with a stove or any other type can be combined into any array, regardless of whether they have a square or rectangular shape. The type of fuel doesn't really matter either. For a country house, a self-built stove can be an ideal heating option.

A stove of this design has dimensions of 102x102x238 cm. If we talk about its heat transfer during operation, it is 4200 kcal per hour.

One of its important parts, the firebox, has a greater height in the design of this stove. The symmetrical arrangement is also characteristic of its side openings, which serve to remove gas through the side chambers of the furnace walls located on the sides of the structure. Once there, the gas descends through the chambers, the connection of which is ensured by a special channel located under the firebox.

Gases enter the risers from each side chamber through the lower flaps. Then they rise into the side chambers located at the top. All together they form the top cap, which contains three U-shaped cavities.

The cavities are located parallel to each other. Having got up, the gas will be retained in the middle and rear cavities of the cap, and after cooling it will move to the front plane along the lower part. The front plane is connected to the top-type chimney. From there the gas will escape into the atmosphere.

The design of this furnace has three hoods: an upper one and 2 big cameras. If we talk about the type of fuel that can be used in the construction of this structure, we note that it can be anything. To lay out the walls of the firebox during the construction of the furnace, refractory bricks should be used.

A stove in the house is a good help in creating a comfortable microclimate with minimal costs. She can act as the main heating system for a home or used as an additional heat source. The construction of this structure does not have to be entrusted to a specialist. You can build a stove in your home yourself if you study all the nuances of building a stove. High-quality work will allow you to get a stove that will give off heat well and will last for decades.

Figure 1 – Stove with fireplace and stove

The stove is a very popular heating option for private homes. Of course, now there are many different heating options, but still the stove remains a very popular option for heating a home, it separate rooms. In addition, you can cook food on the stove, use it as a drying rack, a steam room in a bathhouse, make a sun lounger and sleep on it. In addition, you can come up with a number of other applications and bring them to life.

What are the advantages of brick stoves?

It has a number of positive aspects and in many situations outperforms its competitors. Here are the main advantages of this option:

1. This heating option is environmentally friendly: when laying the stove, only building materials of natural origin are used; when heated, they do not emit any harmful substances and carcinogens.
2. After firing, the stove retains heat for a long time.
3. It can be harmoniously integrated into the interior of the room.
4. It is a multifunctional product - in addition to heating rooms, you can cook food on it, use it as a dryer, and the healing properties of therapeutic sleep on a stove are generally known.

What should you pay attention to when choosing oven parameters and its location?

The stove is a multifunctional element; it can be used to maintain comfort in a room, cook food, heat, dry, etc. Therefore, the choice of stove dimensions and its placement in the house must be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible. The larger the oven, the more heat it will produce, and the longer it will take to cool down after firing is completed. If the house has several separate rooms located opposite each other, then it is advisable to position the stove in such a way that its sides, giving off maximum amount warmth, looked towards these rooms. It's no secret that the sides of the stove emit 3-4 times more heat than the front and back sides. This must be taken into account when designing the location of the stove in the room.

What kind of brick should be used to build a stove?

Various parts of the oven are laid out different bricks, depending on the temperatures that will affect it:
1. The lower rows of the stove, which will not be exposed to high temperatures, as well as parts of the chimney, the smoke temperature in which will not exceed 80 degrees, can be laid out from building red brick.

2. Red stove ceramic brick. Has the best characteristics. Kiln bricks can withstand high temperatures up to 800 degrees without destruction. This brick is used to lay out the furnace part.
3. Fireclay brick. This brick is laid out inner part combustion chamber. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees. It has high heat capacity and thermal conductivity.

You cannot lay out the firebox only with fireclay bricks. It heats up very quickly and cools down just as quickly. In order for the stove to give off heat for a long time, the outer layer of the combustion chamber must be lined with stove bricks.

What mortar is needed to hold the brick together?

Different parts of the oven are lined with different types of bricks. The solution in different parts will also be different:

1. Cement-sand. The parts of the furnace that are lined with ordinary red brick are placed on ordinary mortar.
2. Mortar based on M400 cement. A mortar based on this brand of cement and high-quality mountain sand is used in the construction of those parts of the furnace where the temperature will not exceed 250 degrees.
3. Clay solution. Also mixed with mountain sand. However, expensive mountain sand can be replaced with sand from ground oven or fireclay bricks.
   A very important component of the solution is clay. It is best to use red stove. When frozen, it should not crumble or crumble.
   The solution should be of medium thickness - like thick sour cream in consistency. The layer thickness should be minimal - no more than 5 mm. This is necessary so that the precious heat from the stove does not leave too quickly.

How to fold a stove with your own hands?

To carry out this work, it is best, of course, to resort to the services of a qualified professional - a stove maker, but this is not a panacea. The work can also be done on your own. You just need to stock up on knowledge and boldly get to work.
Laying can be divided into stages. We offer step-by-step instructions.

Stage 1 – Choosing a location for the oven

The first step is to choose a place where it will stand. This should be a place closer to the center of the room, so that when the stove heats up, it evenly gives off its heat even to the most remote corners of the room. The location of the stove should be such that it does not interfere with the passage or block the light. There should be no furniture or flammable utensils near the stove that could ignite when the stove gets too hot and cause a fire. Also, the place where it is installed should be such that it is convenient to work near it: laying firewood, taking out and throwing away ashes, working on the stove, etc. There should also be a place next to the stove to store a small armful of firewood so that you can add a couple of logs to the fire at any time.

Stage 2 – Selecting oven dimensions

Everything is simple here: the larger the stove, the more heat it will give off, the longer it will cool down and give off heat to the room over a longer period of time. However, such a stove takes longer to heat up and requires more firewood for burning.
It is faster to drown a small one, but there will be less heat from it and it will drain faster.

Stage 3 – Selection of bricks and their quantity

Next, you need to select the brick from which the stove will be laid out. It's best to take red. The number of bricks is determined by multiplying the number of bricks in a row by the number of rows. You also need to take into account possible errors and additional branches during laying.

Stage 4 – Site Preparation

If the stove is massive and heavy, then it is advisable to make a separate foundation for it. If not, then you need to prepare a flat, clean surface and cover it with roofing material. If necessary, you can make formwork from boards. The first row sets the tone for all future work, so everything must be done conscientiously.

Stage 5 – Laying the first row – the flood part

The first row is the base of the future structure. Therefore, it must be approached very responsibly. We arm ourselves with a level and, if necessary, make formwork. It is best to first lay out the first row without mortar and see what happens, and then fasten the bricks with mortar.

Stage 6 – Installation of the blower

After laying two rows, you need to install a blower door and make a cavity into which the ash from the combustion chamber will be poured. To fasten the door, tempered wire is fixed at one end into special holes in the door, the other end is fixed between the bricks in the mortar.

Stage 7 – Laying out the fire part

The fire chamber is made of heat-resistant stove and fireclay bricks. You also need to install grates through which the ashes will pour down.

Step 8 – Installing the combustion chamber door

Important stage construction work. Installed in a similar way to the blower door. The firebox door must be secured as securely as possible, because it will open and close for years to come.

Stage 9 – Laying the rows of the combustion section

Stage 10 – Installation of the slab

The stove must be laid evenly, all seams and joints must be very well coated with the solution and be sealed so that when the stove burns, smoke does not flow through the cracks into the room, and the flames do not fall on the hob.

Stage 11 – Laying the chimney

The various parts of the chimney that will be affected by different temperatures are laid out again different types bricks In the process of laying the chimney, you must not forget about the chimney view and damper. The view is installed by analogy with the blower door. A narrow slot in the chimney must be provided for the valve.

When the stove is burning, the valve is pulled out and allows smoke to escape through the chimney to the street; when it is not in use or heating is completed, the valve is in the retracted position.

Stage 12 – Exiting the chimney through the roof

One of the most difficult and responsible stages. The pipe through which smoke will be removed outside the house can be of the following types:

1. Asbestos cement is one of the cheapest and most affordable options.
2. Metal.
3. Stainless steel.
4. Brick. The laying of the stove continues after the chimney, which smoothly turns into a pipe and exits above the roof.
5. Ceramic pipe is an expensive option.
6. Vermiculite pipe is a new modern solution.

Necessary tools, materials and equipment for work

To complete the work you will need the following tool:

1. Master OK.
2. Pick.
3. Building level.
4. Shovel
5. Plumb.
6. Putty knife.
7. Roulette.
8. Pliers.
9. Bulgarian.
10. Sieve.

Figure 11 – Tools required for construction work
You will also need the following materials and equipment:

1. Brick (kiln, construction, fireclay).
2. Boards for formwork.
3. Ruberoid.
4. Chimney damper.
5. Chimney view.
6. Form for mixing the solution.
7. Blower door.
8. Furnace door.
9. Cement.
10. Mountain sand.
11. Red clay.
12. Water.

Conclusion

Installing a stove in your private home is a very big and responsible job. First you need to develop a project, choose a location, make sure the foundation is reliable, or make a new foundation for the stove. It is necessary to choose the correct dimensions of the stove based on the size of the room and the purpose of the stove, and correctly position it in the house relative to the rooms. To install the stove you need to prepare different types bricks, mix a high-quality mortar. After completing all the work, you need to heat the stove and see how it works, whether the stove, valve, doors are working properly, whether the structure is hermetically sealed, etc. If minor defects are found, they will need to be eliminated as soon as the firing is completed and the stove has cooled down.