Drawings of battle axes. How to make an ax with your own hands: a master class on making an ax handle, drawings with dimensions and sharpening diagram

Marco A.G(ma36and6)

I have long wanted to make an ax like in Shipulin’s 1982 article Taiga Axe. And it seems like I don’t have a taiga nearby, so there are tens of square kilometers of forests and I only go hunting with a barbecue, skewers and ready-made meat, but I wanted to make a product in the image and likeness.
I tried to do this twice before. It worked with varying degrees of success.
And then I found an ax at my friends’ dacha. Quite an old carpenter from 1974, weighing 1.3 kg.
The ax was bad. The eyelet burst right through on one side almost immediately after purchase, it was boiled, the split was repeated and the owner abandoned it in the barn for many years. Despite the crack and rust, the ax rang amazingly; the crack hardly spoiled its ringing. And the ringing of the butt and the ringing of the blade were little different.
It is obvious that the ax was overheated in the butt.
The ax itself was not even properly sharpened. RK walked from side to side. This was an ideal candidate for experimentation.
I decided to make that same hunting ax out of it.
Weld the eye, grind it into another shape, make a comfortable ax handle, sharpen it and see what happens.

So let's get started.
The first step was to weld the crack. The crack was previously sharpened with a grinder to a depth of half
the thickness of the ax and then handed over to a professional welder.
The welder was an ordinary one, from our HOA, the one who welds heating and water supply pipes in houses every day.
The seam was welded by electric welding on both sides, outside and inside. The grooving and welding work itself took about an hour.
In general, it turned out to be not as labor-intensive as it seemed at first glance.

Next, the search for the form began. Because I don't forge new thing, but I’m just sharpening the existing one,
then the flight of fancy is limited by the dimensions of the current product.
Shipulin proposed the following form of turning. The front protruding toe is cut off and a notch is made
in the back and the blade is rounded.

The ax base is carpenter's. Its shape is such that there is much more iron in the front than in the back.
With this method, the final ax turned out to have a very narrow blade; it became difficult for them to hit a log or trunk.
In addition, the ax is lightened beyond measure.
For example, the first attempt with an ax of the same size resulted in a final weight of 900 grams from the original 1300.
Actually, the two previous attempts failed precisely because of this. They turned out well battle axes, very narrow and too light.
In general, this is not a product that can be used to chop logs or fell dry wood.
Therefore, I decided to “unfold” the ax so that there would be less “meat” to be cut from the front and the ax would retain a larger width after turning.
And I didn’t want to lose the weight of the ax. I consider 1000-1100 gr to be optimal for a household axe.
A small digression. I rotated the pictures from Shipulin’s article for ease of comparison with photographs of what happened.
So if you read the original article, don’t blame me for distortion.

There is a downside to such a reversal. With this method of turning, final product eyelet on the side where the ax enters into it
it turns out a little wider than when exiting.
The actual thickness of the butt and the internal inclination of the eye are the main problem when turning the ax.
The cone turns out in the wrong direction. I decided to deal with this problem already during the nozzle.
The reverse cone shape was not particularly disturbing for another reason: there is no cone in our axes,
there is some uneven resemblance. And taking into account the fact that there was a welding seam inside, I decided not to give a damn about some kind of reverse taper.

Further work fully proved the correctness of this idea.
Turning was done in two ways.
First thin cutting disc protruding corners were cut off.
The second method is to grind the grooves and residues from the previous processing with a thick abrasive disc.
For ease of turning, the drawing of the future shape of the ax was first drawn with a black marker, and then those parts
which were about to be cut off were sealed with white paper. I glued it to cyanoacrylate.
With this method of marking, even if there is large quantity sparks are always visible where the tool's RC is located.
The glue did not fail, the paper held on until the end of processing.

The rough turning was done quickly, and within an hour the conceived idea was embodied in a new form. The ax lost 200 grams.
and became much more elegant.

A birch blank was chosen as an ax handle. In general, I don’t like birch as a material for an ax handle.
but this particular example of the ax fit perfectly under the eye, there was no need to even adjust it.
The ax handle was purchased in the summer of 2012 and weighed 495 grams when purchased. After 7 months of drying, the weight became 473 grams. Overall this
it was still a bit too much and after installation the ax handle was sharpened a little more to fit the hand, the weight dropped further to 430 grams.
It seems like such a small thing, 43 grams. But this little thing shifted the CM 1.5 cm forward towards the iron, which overall slightly improved
overall balance of the axe.
Wedge using your favorite method: 5 wedges on gauze with epoxy + sticking wood chips into the gaps with reverse side,
They probably still remember about the reverse cone.

It turned out just like Shipulin’s. Well, except that I got a product with a slightly larger relative width and
The deflection of the ax is less.

Speaking of deflection.
To be honest, this deflection in the original article always confused me with its excessiveness.
Apparently this is still the fantasy of the author, who wanted to pass off what he wanted as reality.
Because if you look at the photo of real products in the same article. Then the deflection of the ax is much less.
It simply can't be that big due to the lip at the bottom of the eyelet.
And the tree with such a deflection must be bent, and not turned, so that it does not break along the edges of the fibers.
Birch is unlikely to do this, except beech.

But I had 2 attempts with beech before and I can’t say that they were too successful.

Then stained with non-aqueous stains. The color turned out uneven, despite two honest attempts.

TTX before/after
Weight: 1330g/1120g
Assembled weight: 1570g
Blade width: 145mm/120mm
Height from butt to RC 200mm/200mm
Eyelet height 61 mm (it became the same on both sides)
Butt thickness (after turning and turning)
-internal 18 mm
-external 15 mm
Length 600 mm

The ax was later sharpened and successfully used for its intended purpose. Preparing firewood for barbecue in the forest.
The ax has a good balance, there is no recoil in the hand, in general, the ideas that Shipulin has been expressing for 30 years
ago were completely confirmed.

If you live or work in the taiga, then you must be equipped the right tools. Mandatory equipment includes not only a saw, but also an axe. Many people make the mistake of choosing this tool and think that they can handle carpentry. Today we’ll look at what an ideal taiga ax looks like and whether it’s possible to make it yourself.

Peculiarities

Not only in the taiga you need a high-quality ax. All lovers of regular and long hikes will love this attribute. This tool is needed not only for preparing kebabs. There is a list of things that cannot do without this attribute. Namely:

• cutting down trees;
• processing of fallen logs;
• production of bags and self-catchers;
• building a hut;
• splitting a log along the grain.

Looking at this entire list, we can safely say that the work is mostly rough and requires strong and durable equipment. The taiga ax is mainly used:

• commercial hunters;
• huntsmen;
• foresters;
• tourists;
• geologists and any other person who is going to the taiga.

Components

It is necessary to consider what basic elements the ax consists of:

1. An ax handle is different from a carpenter's tool. The taiga ax is much longer. It makes it easy to swing and hit a tree. The optimal length of the ax is approximately 50 cm, and in some cases more. It should not be heavy, otherwise it is impossible to achieve success in the taiga.
2. Head. This part is also different from a carpenter's tool. Missing from the head top part blades. If you urgently need to turn an ordinary ax into a taiga one, you can adjust it yourself.
3. Blade. For efficient work it is specially rounded. This blade has wide application in the taiga.
4. Beard. This part fixes the ax handle and the head together.
5. Butt. In the taiga, it happens that you need not only an ax, but also a hammer. This part will easily replace it. Convenient, no need to carry a hammer with you, this is especially preferred by tourists.
6. Eye. This part allows you to put the head on the ax handle. To ensure the reliability of the entire structure, be sure to drive a wooden wedge or an ordinary thick nail into the eyelets. This will prevent the head from coming off.
7. Fungus. This part is intended solely for safe use. It secures your hands in a comfortable position and does not slip.

Below is a taiga ax. The drawing will show where and how each part is located.

Characteristics

The taiga ax is a tool that will help you with everything. There are conditions that must be met:

• lightness (frequency of use may affect fatigue);
• the handle must be ergonomic (an ax for every man should be like an individual suit - only in size);
• the main weight should be in the metal head.

For those who like to do things with their own hands, we suggest taking advantage of our next master class.

Independent production

We suggest supplementing your camping kit with a tool such as a taiga ax. We will make it with our own hands from a blank a real masterpiece. Before starting work, we will prepare everything you need. This includes:

• carpenter's ax head;
• wooden butt;
• Bulgarian;
• metal wedges.

We present a step-by-step lesson:

1. Using a grinder you need to shape the ax. It should look like a taiga specimen. If there is rust, it must be removed. To do this we use a petal disk.
2. If corrosion has damaged the metal from the inside, then soak the head in vinegar for a day. We clean off the remains with a brush.
3. We are preparing the ax handle. In our case, we suggest taking what is considered strong and solid.
4. Fasten the head and butt together with epoxy resin. Additionally reinforced with a bandage, drive in beech wedges.
5. Cut off all excess and be sure to sand it.
6. Sharpen your axe.

Since the butt is primarily a tree that is susceptible to dampness, it is worth treating it. Impregnate with special oil in several layers. Additionally, the product will receive strength and water resistance.

You can also make your own protective case for the ax. It will protect you from unwanted injuries.

Sharpening rules

To avoid injury, the ax must be sharp. Sharpening can be done manually and mechanically. Let's look at each method separately and look at the basic rules for sharpening a tool.

Manual method

This method will require a lot of free time, since the matter is quite troublesome. If you approach it with special trepidation, then before sharpening you need to make a special template. To do this you need:

• find a piece of tin;
• choose the optimal and correct sharpening angle;
• make a cutout.

When the template is ready, move on to the main action:

• apply the template to the ax blade;
• see if there is a deviation angle;
• make marks using a marker;
• processing.

If you choose manual method sharpening, it is better to do it with a medium-grit stone. The final touch can be done in the smallest way. The timber also has its own nuances:

• round shape is preferred;
• material - fine sandstone.

Professionals advise sharpening with the blade facing away from you. It is also noted that if amateurs get down to business, the blade becomes dull, and in some cases the “sharpeners” break.

Mechanical method

If you have it on hand, you can use it. To carry out the procedure, you will need the following:

• the device itself;
• ax with blade;
• sharpening stone with two working surfaces;
• finishing paste;
• marker;
• goniometer;
• means for personal protection eyes and hands.

The procedure is carried out as follows:

1. The machine must be placed on a flat and hard surface.
2. The working surface must be free of defects.
3. If you need to update the sharpening at an existing angle, mark the desired area with a marker.
4. Sharpen with the blade facing away from you.
5. If the angle is suitable, fix the result using finishing paste. Lubricate the grinding wheel with it and polish the ax.
6. Be sure to apply a product that protects against corrosion.

Sharpening tips from professionals

1. If you sharpen an ax mechanically, then you need to do this at low speeds.
2. Do not sharpen with a grinder.
3. There is no need to rush when sharpening.
4. To prevent the ax from becoming dull for a long time, store it in a protective case.
5. Never sharpen an ax without personal protective equipment.
6. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to turn to professionals.

Safety precautions at work

An ax is a rather dangerous thing. To prevent your hike from turning into a sad journey, remember the following operating instructions:

1. The head should not dangle on the ax handle.
2. When cutting, place wood under the wood.
3. Do not throw the taiga ax on the ground.
4. Do not attempt to cut stone or metal with this tool.
5. When working, you need to take positions that are comfortable for you. There should be a lot of free space around.

Purchase

If you like constant hiking or hunt, then you need equipment such as a taiga ax. The vacha is the most common model among this family of instruments. Use it to quickly and easily chop and process wood.

If you want to purchase a forged taiga ax, make sure that the kit includes a protective case. Distinctive feature This brand of tools is considered to be the handle. It is made from strong varieties birch trees The wood is impregnated and processed.

We've looked at how to make a taiga one. If you can't make it yourself, you can always find the product in the store.

IN Lately There is a real boom in blacksmithing. Young people are becoming blacksmiths. The knives and axes made by their hands are real works of art.

Nothing is impossible

Looking at the work of blacksmiths, the thought comes to mind that there is nothing difficult in making an ax. But in practice, this turns out to be much more difficult.

In addition to a piece of metal for forging an ax, you need: a forge, an anvil, holes for the eye. Not everyone has such a set of tools. Of course, you can make a forge and punches, but you can also try to make an ax in a different way.

Making an ax using the metalwork method

Ideas on how to make an ax outside the forge lead to plumbing method. The ax consists of three parts:

• ax blade
• ax handle

If everything is clear with the materials for making an ax and a wedge, then the question of what, and most importantly how, to make a canvas is puzzling. Knowing that the blade consists of a blade and a butt, you understand what is needed to make an ax:

• metal strip for blade
• piece of pipe for butt

Blade

The full size drawing will show the quantity required material. The blade requires a hard metal, such as a car spring.

We transfer the outline of the drawing to the spring and saw off all the excess. We also make descents using a grinder. It is important here not to overheat the metal so that the edge remains hard and holds an edge well.

Butt

For the butt of a medium ax you will need a pipe with internal diameter 38-40 mm. It is better if it is thick-walled. We cut the pipe to size from the drawing. Then we heat it up, for example gas burner, and compress it in a yew to give it a more rectangular shape.

Assembly of the canvas

The blade and butt are connected by welding. It is important to weld the metal thoroughly so that the ax does not crack during operation.

Then we grind the seam with a grinder, if necessary, boil the shells, and grind again. For additional strength, you can rivet the butt and blade with strips of metal.

Toporische

A good ax requires the presence of a properly made ax handle. To the question - what can an ax handle be made from, there is a simple answer - from hardwood.

The most common wood for making ax handles is birch. But, if you make an ax not only for chopping wood, but for the soul, then you should look for a type of wood with a more expressive texture.

Wood for an ax

An ax handle made of ash, elm, or hornbeam will look very beautiful. It’s just difficult to buy boards made from such types of wood in some regions, especially in the outback. Of course, you can use online trading.

The wood for the ax must be well dried and free of knots. At home wooden plank dried at room temperature within six months

The longer the wood dries, the stronger the ax handle will be. According to custom, wooden blanks were dried for years in the attics of houses.

Action plan

Drawing up instructions on how to make an ax handle with your own hands allows you to break the process into elementary steps. A compiled list of actions will help you avoid mistakes and improve the quality of the result. This is especially important if you are doing something for the first time.

Note!

The step-by-step process on how to make a pen at home will look like this:

• drawing up a sketch of an ax and a template
• wood processing
• ax attachment
• finishing coating.

Sketch and template of an ax

For comfortable work, the ax handle is made about 50-70 cm. Having drawn a full-size sketch, it is easier to imagine the proportions of the future ax. Next, we transfer the drawing to plywood or thick cardboard and make a template.

Roughing

Using the template, we outline the outline of the handle on the wood and cut out the blank. Give the handle a more rounded shape. For these purposes, you can use a plane, chisels or a small hatchet.

Fit

The next stage in making the ax handle is adjusting the shape and ergonomics. We grind the wood to give it the correct shape and comfortable grip.

A large rasp, as well as a power grinding tool, are perfect for these purposes. The main thing here is not to loosen the place where the ax fits on the ax handle.

Note!

Sanding and assembly

After rough processing, sand the handle sandpaper and make a slot for the wedge. Place the ax on the handle and drive in a wedge. Many people advise placing the wedge on glue or epoxy resin. The choice is yours.

Finishing

The assembled ax is carefully polished with fine sandpaper. The wood can be covered with stain or left as is. The protective layer is applied with oil or varnish.

For greater exclusivity, the ax handle can be decorated with carvings, inlays or wire notches. A pattern etched in a saline solution will look beautiful on the surface of the axe.

Conclusion

It is very easy to purchase an ax for chopping wood, and there is no need to make it yourself for these purposes. Homemade axes are more used as a creative object, but he is capable of performing his direct duties.

Some independent specimens will give industrial designs a run for their money, giving owners a reason for pride and pleasure from the work done.

Photo of a homemade ax

Note!

Do-it-yourself hatchet, drawing and detailed description products.

For the ax handle, types of hardwood wood are used; the best ones are:

Ash
Jatoba
hickory
oak
beech
birch
maple

The fracture strength of the product is ensured by the position of the wood fibers in the workpiece from which the ax handle will be made.

Let's look at the picture, which shows the position of the workpiece relative to the cutting plane of the barrel or chock. As you can see, the workpiece is placed outside the center of the tree trunk.

When choosing (chocks), you must remember that the area is free of chips, knots, cracks and rot.
We split off the workpiece from the block required sizes, and send it to dry.
The best option is if drying is carried out under natural conditions, in a ventilated area and for a long time.
The moisture content of wood after drying should be 8...12%.

Let's start making the ax handle according to the drawing:

1. Let's prepare a workpiece of the required size.

2. Let's transfer the outline from the drawing to the workpiece.

The deviation of the fiber arrangement from the longitudinal axis along the workpiece should not exceed 5°

3. Let's cut out the outline of the product according to the dimensions of the drawing.

4. Smooth out the sharp edges and round the corners.

The handle of the product must be perfectly smooth and oval
the bottom of the ax is thickened and rounded
the top of the ax is adjusted to the eye of the attached blade.

5. We will treat the product with an antiseptic.

The taiga ax is a special type of tool that has many differences from ordinary carpentry tools that can be found in every owner’s home. Good tool it is very difficult to find and it is expensive, so we will make best ax with your own hands from ordinary materials. Next, we will consider the main differences, features, characteristics of the product and step by step instructions its manufacture.

Characteristics of the taiga ax and what it should be like

Since the parameters of the ax and blade are very different from the usual sizes of “household” axes and will seem unusual to many, you first need to decide what problems can be solved with this miracle device:

• Tree cutting. Felling in a sawmill, sanitary felling or preparing firewood for a log house - this is exactly what this ax was made for.
• Rough work with logs (that's right, rough!). Suitable for removing branches, making grooves, removing thick bark and similar work.
• Ax for survival. A lightweight hunting tool, suitable for quickly creating bags and animal traps.
• Construction of huts, decking, wooden houses « instant cooking" A hut will not be built without an axe, but with its help you can do it 4 times faster than when working with a carpenter's ax blade.
• Working with firewood. If accuracy is a secondary concern, then this tool is perfect for the job.

If you want to make a tool for precision work, then it would be better to consider forged axes with a straight, long blade. They are of little use when cutting down trees, but the accuracy is very high. In addition to the quality of the “cut,” there are many differences between a taiga ax and a regular one.

Shorter rounded blade . The ax is much lighter than a regular one, and small area work surface allows you to bury it much deeper into the wood, suitable for cutting wood across the grain. The tool is much easier to carry (the ax and head together weigh no more than 1400 grams).

Presence of a long beard . Its main task is to protect the wooden part from breaking when strong blows. Up to 60% of the impact force is absorbed. But it does not protect against impacts against logs - this is a misconception, since the special shape of the blade already performs this function.

Special ax sharpening . The trailing edge of the blade is almost 2 times thinner than the front. This is done for the purpose of using the ax as a cleaver (if struck correctly). IN ordinary instrument the edge has the same thickness for high precision works

Special angle of inclination of the ax . The head of the taiga ax forms a much smaller angle with the ax handle. This allows you to increase work efficiency, relieve hand fatigue and increase productivity when cutting trees. The impact becomes much stronger than that of a carpenter's axe, where the head and blade are placed at an angle of 90 degrees. All taiga axes self made they try to do it with an angle of 75-65 degrees - this is their main difference.

They use ordinary sharpening wheels, since they can be very diverse. The main thing is to observe the difference in the thickness of the leading and trailing edges, since it is this that affects the productivity of the forester.

Do-it-yourself taiga ax - making the tool head

Forge or pour metal part It won’t work at home, so let’s go on our own in a simple way and in a few steps we will make a taiga ax out of an ordinary carpenter’s axe.

STEP 1: we take an old metal head from an ax, the weight of which is approximately 1400-1600 grams ( best option) and cut off the front protrusion of the blade flush with the butt. Protrusion of 5-8 degrees is allowed, but it's better to remove it if you need the right axe.

STEP 2: we make the back of the blade rounded, we cut off the metal so that the entire touching surface is without corners. This can be done using a regular grinder or a medium-grit sanding wheel.

STEP 3: cut out a semicircle in the inner part of the blade. It is necessary for a comfortable grip of the ax when it is necessary to plan something or for more precise work. With this form of an ax you can pull up small logs or hang the ax on a tree branch. In addition, you can reduce the weight of the head by 150-200 grams.

STEP 4: we cut off the upper corners of the butt. This will reduce weight and increase the maneuverability of the tool. This operation can be omitted if you are satisfied with the axe.

Now all that remains is to choose how to sharpen the ax. It is very important to use a low-speed tool (a grinder cannot be used!). Sanding machine with large wheel and medium grit - perfect option. The sharpening must be double-sided and have a moderately sharp edge (a very sharp one will die on the first tree).

Making an ax handle with your own hands

You should not neglect the ax handle, since it is this that affects the comfort of work. The holder must be balanced, comfortable, well polished and with the correct geometry so as not to injure the worker’s hands.

The first step is to choose the right wood for the ax handle. The first and simplest option is pine. It is very easy to sharpen and polish, but is unreliable due to its high fragility. You can use birch - the best option and very affordable wood that is quite easy to find. Maple and clear - ideal option, but making a handle from such wood is very difficult in some latitudes.

The size of the ax can be at your discretion; a handle with a length of 50 to 70 centimeters (universal size) is recommended for the cleaver. A hiking option is 40 centimeters, but cutting down trees and chopping firewood is quite difficult with it. If working with an ax only involves splitting logs, then the handle can be increased to 120 centimeters - excellent impact power and productivity, but you lose in comfort of use. Next, let's look at step-by-step instructions for making an ax handle.

STEP 1: select wooden blank. The log should be 20 centimeters longer, and its diameter should be at least 12 cm. Without knots, rotten areas, deformations and other defects that may be present on the tree.

STEP 2: drying wood. First you need to clear all the bark and split the lump in the middle. It is advisable to withstand for a couple of months at +22-25 degrees and 15% humidity. You should not heat it or keep it damp - this will only worsen the properties of the wood after drying, in addition, it may become deformed.

STEP 3: we shape the ax handle. First, you can remove all excess with a hatchet or a large knife, and all “jewelry work” is done using a chisel and a small hammer. If this is your first hand-made pen and you don’t yet know how to make an ax, then the process will take several hours, you need to check the drawings. A more experienced person will be able to cut an ax handle by eye in 20-30 minutes. You should end up with a handle something like this:

STEP 4: Now you need to attach the ax handle and secure it. You can use gauze and epoxy resin - a proven option. After 2-3 days the instrument is completely ready for use. To be sure, after mounting the ax you can hammer in a wedge - this will be more reliable.

STEP 5: sanding and opening with varnish. The ax handle must be properly treated with sandpaper and opened with anti-corrosion mixtures so that the wood is not damaged over time. Now the instrument will also be beautiful!

Now all you have to do is find out what do-it-yourself sharpening is. You need to sharpen the ax handle on a machine or do it manually and you can go test the tool. True connoisseurs can also make a leather case with their own hands. A piece of leather 30 by 30 centimeters, an awl and nylon threads is all you need. Now the tool will look respectable and you won’t be ashamed to give it as a gift!

You can find out more about how to make a taiga ax with your own hands here: