How to cover up the plaster that has fallen off the wall. Repair of old plaster interior walls

A hole appears.

It can be large or small - a piece of plaster falls off, a hole is made that becomes through, a hole is mistakenly drilled with a hammer drill in the wrong place.

After that, fixing a hole in the wall is headache and the responsibility of either the owners or the repairmen.

They can be divided by size - large and small.

Large holes will require significant volume.

Most likely, in this case you will have to finish the entire surface of the wall in order to hide it again.

Fix a hole in the wall small size much easier.

Here you can limit yourself to finishing work on a local scale.

For large holes, it is necessary to fill the hole with stone materials.

How to repair a hole in this type of wall? Best of all is what the wall was made of before. For example, for brick wall sealing with brick is suitable, for a wall made of aerated concrete you can use. For a tongue-and-groove wall, take a piece tongue-and-groove block. For concrete wall take the brick.

The material for laying in the hole is selected taking into account the material from which the masonry is made. For brick and aerated concrete you can take cement mortar and place the piece covering the hole on it.

For a tongue-and-groove ridge, be sure to take gypsum masonry mortar. Be careful - it hardens quickly! You should not use rotband and other gypsum plasters for this purpose - the adhesion will be fragile. But you can use fine-grained gypsum putties, such as Fugenfüller - they will adhere well to the tongue-and-groove block. In this case, it is advisable not to make the layer thicker.

Before you start filling the hole, try to line up the edges, especially the bottom. This will avoid problems with . You can level it with a chisel or a hammer drill. Be careful not to completely gouge the wall or break too much. It is also advisable to trim the edges. It is convenient to fit a piece of block or brick under the hole using a stove hammer, making gentle blows and breaking off small pieces.

If it is a plasterboard wall, such as a multilayer partition, screw a piece of plasterboard from inside the main one. This is done like this:

• Cut out a piece of drywall larger than the hole, 3-4 centimeters in all directions, then cut it in half.
• Screwed to the front side of one cut piece door handle on self-tapping screws.
• The sheet is inserted behind the main cladding and screwed on the outside with self-tapping screws. The handle is unscrewed.
• Also screw the second half, joining an even seam approximately in the middle of the hole.

After the hole in the wall is sealed, the masonry has dried and finally set, plastering work is carried out.

How to repair fallen plaster

Small-scale plastering work will have to be carried out both after stone work to fill holes, and after the plaster has fallen off from a small area.

The easiest way to do this is to use quick-hardening gypsum plasters.

These compositions allow you to immediately apply a large layer, especially in a local area, and do not have to wait long for the plaster to set.

What is the best way to seal a hole in the wall using gypsum compounds?

The most common such composition is the rotband. Its complete setting time is approx. three hours, complete drying - about a week (depending on the air humidity in the room).

You can use plasters from other manufacturers. It is better not to use pure alabaster - it gives unpredictable adhesion to the surface and then it is unknown how it will lie on a large alabaster platform.

Before filling the hole, it is cleaned. Take out all the pieces that fall off and move, sweep away the dust with a brush. The surface is moistened and primed with compounds intended for plastering work. After this, a layer of plaster is applied.

It is more convenient to do this when filling holes using a small ten-point spatula. Apply until the entire surface is filled to the plane of the wall. After this, the layer, while it has not yet set, is carefully cut off according to the rule, flush with the main wall.

Acrylic sealant is good because almost any paint fits well on it and sticks to it.

How to make a defect invisible

For small defects sealed with sealant, you can make them invisible using a small brush and paint.

Simply paint the white caulk over the edge of the resulting hole with a brush.

It is advisable to match the paint by color, but if it does not match too much, it is not a problem.

On small area it won't be very noticeable.

For larger defects, full finishing is carried out.

If the defect is on the wallpaper, it is necessary to putty the defect and align it with the rest of the wall, and then replace the sheet, carefully cutting it along the adjacent wallpaper. If the defect is on a painted wall, it is puttied and painted over.

In this case, you need to very accurately select the paint color to match the base color. If on a tile, several tiles are placed at the site of the defect. If it is not possible to hide the defect, do it again exterior finishing the entire wall.

How and with what to seal the grooves is shown in the video:

- a thing is not eternal. Owners of houses and apartments are faced with a problem when it begins to crack or fall off in places. What to do? We will look at the reasons for this phenomenon, as well as how to repair plaster walls in individual places and surface restoration technology.

Surface defects, causes and method of restoration
There are a number of defects that are formed when the proportions of the components of the composition or the technology of its application are violated. The list is as follows:

1. Formation of tubercles on the surface and swelling.
2. Sedimentary cracks.
3. Fresh plaster is peeling off the wall.
4. Formation of cracks throughout the entire depth of the solution.
5. Efflorescence, spots and stripes appear on the wall after the plaster layer has dried.

What is the reason for such defects? Swelling and bumps may appear if the limestone composition is not seasoned and has unslaked particles. How to repair lime plaster in this case? It is necessary to withstand the plaster until the lime is completely extinguished. The defects are exposed, abundantly moistened with water and filled with plaster mortar. All that remains is to wipe the surface.

Sedimentary cracks are formed when the composition is poorly mixed and when there is an excess of binder. Precise adherence to proportions and dosage in accordance with the packaging will help solve the problem. All that remains is to thoroughly mix the plaster and level the surface.

When the base has not been prepared, cleaned, rough, too dry and dusty, fresh plaster may flake off when applied. To solve this, you will need to pause work and start preparing the surface. The application technology is as follows: notches are made on the surface for better adhesion (or shingles are made), the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt. In addition, it is moistened with water. Then the mixture will not peel off, and repairs to the plaster and surfaces inside the building will not be needed for a long time.

If the problem is cracks throughout the entire thickness of the plaster layer, then there is exactly one reason - there is no reinforcing mesh between the wall and the plaster. The base material is not rigid and is not reinforced in any way. The technology for applying the mixture is that the subsequent finishing layer should be less durable than the previous one, i.e. it contains less binder. To prevent the intermediate layers from drying out, they must be moistened with water and reinforced with mesh.

The last defect is spots and stripes. They most often appear on walls from the outside. The cause may be a very damp or wet surface. Especially when the plaster is applied after rain. The solution is to treat the dried walls and waterproof them to prevent moisture from being drawn up from the ground. Local repair of plastered walls is performed differently. The technology is simple, but requires careful consideration.

Step-by-step instructions for eliminating defects

You can repair a wall with fallen pieces of plaster yourself. The work is not difficult. You just need to follow the instructions. Alternatively, you can completely remove the layer and apply a new one. But it is more profitable to plaster the damaged areas. It all starts with an inspection. It is important to identify areas that need repair. Will be required wooden mallet. You will have to lightly tap the wall. If a dull sound is heard, then the train has moved away.

1. After the inspection, you need to remove the old plaster. We do not touch the places where it holds well.
2. Next, the seams are cleaned, if this brickwork. The surface is cleaned of debris and dust.
3. A primer is applied to the wall. It is needed for better grip.
4. After the surface has dried, the wall is slightly moistened and the solution is applied. If a large part of the wall has peeled off, you will have to use beacons and a rule. This is the only way the surface of the wall will be perfectly flat.
5. For minor damage, the plaster is removed in the shape of a square or rectangle. The area is processed according to the previously described method, and the recess is filled with the prepared composition. It is important to adhere to the proportions so that the mixture has the correct consistency.
6. Another restoration option is restoration with corks. In the right places, a hole is drilled to the base, primed, filled with mortar and plastered.

Pay attention! For wooden walls use the solution on limestone. However for wet surfaces he doesn't fit. Better to resort to cement mixture. It is recommended to handle corners gypsum plaster, as it sets faster.

Restoration work

Plaster repair also involves removing stains from the wall surface. They appear during operation and can be caused by grease, soot or rust. It also happens that the spots formed before finishing works. In this case, you will have to solve this problem before you start gluing wallpaper or laying tiles. Restoration work is as follows:

Advice! Whatever surface you're cleaning, it's important to clear it of dirt and dust first. Only after this other manipulations are performed.

Restoration of the surface under the tiles requires special attention. The procedure is as follows:

• using a rubber mallet, tap the surface of the wall. This is the only way to identify a peeled or poorly fixed area;
• When the area is found, you need to knock harder so that the tile falls off. If it is not removed in this way, then you will have to act radically - break it. The process requires accuracy: the tile is broken from the center so that the adjacent one is not damaged;
• If after removal there is a strong layer of plaster left, then it is not necessary to knock it down. Should be glued more securely new tiles using special glue;
• when the plaster falls off, the area is cleaned, primed and plastered again. After drying, a new tile is glued.

Removing cracks

With removal on the surface everything is much simpler. Repair of plaster walls in this case consists of two stages: surface preparation and plastering. To begin with, the wall with cracks is cleaned of old facing material and dirt. After this, a primer is applied to the surface. When it dries, you can start cleaning it to give the wall a smooth finish.

Next, the plaster is mixed and applied to the surface in a thin layer. The composition is leveled using a spatula. If there are large cracks, it is better to strengthen the structure with reinforcing mesh. With it, the plaster layer will be much stronger and will not crack.

Conclusion

Peeling plaster is a minor problem that you can fix yourself. No need to redo all the work. It is worth carrying out restoration work, which will require a maximum of one day, a plaster mixture, a primer and a spatula with a rule. Even with cosmetic repairs It is recommended to remove the old mortar so that it does not fall off along with the finish during use. Stains and cracks also need repair. Then you can be sure that the finish will last for many more years.

It often happens that when preparing an apartment for renovation, it is discovered that all the walls have holes and resemble Swiss cheese. Holes and grooves remain from old wiring, nails for cabinets and shelves, former sockets and switches, and simply from the plaster that had fallen off along with a piece of the wall. The ceiling window into the bathroom is also an eyesore. But it’s not for nothing that they say that the eyes are afraid, but the hands do. Let's roll up our sleeves and start fixing the defects, especially since there is nothing complicated here.

Filling up small holes

Small holes on the wall from screws or dowels are first cleaned with a nail. smaller diameter. We blow with a compressor to remove dust from there, moisten it generously with water to equalize the humidity of the surface and the wet repair compound. We fill the resulting holes with putty on maximum depth. Finishing touch– stripping sandpaper flush with the main surface.

What to do with the middle hole in the wall?

Seal the hole from old socket or a carefully removed communication pipe is not much more difficult than getting rid of a small hole. The principle of surface treatment is the same:

• We remove all parts falling off the wall. Including suspiciously wobbly ones - they can cause a lot of trouble after the repair is completed.
• Using a brush or vacuum cleaner, remove crumbled pieces and dust.
• Spray the surface generously with water from a spray bottle.

• For better adhesion of the mortar to the wall, it is necessary to use
• We fill the hole with a solution of sand, cement and water (3:1:1) or use a ready-made plaster mixture, let it dry.
• We control the drying process: if cracks appear, we rub it with a primer, leveling the surface. Dry and then, if necessary, repeat priming.
• We finally level it with a sander or by hand using medium-grain sandpaper.
• After complete drying, we can consider that the hole is sealed and the surface is ready for finishing.

The solution takes at least 12 hours to dry. At this time, no manipulations with the treated surface can be performed.

Through holes from pipes are first supported on one side with a piece of plywood. Having sealed the surface on one side of the wall, we carry out the same procedure on the other.

How to repair a large hole?

Sometimes it happens that when repairing walls, not only pieces of plaster fall out. They may be joined by broken pieces of concrete or brick. In this case, it is necessary to use additional reinforcement of the wall surface.

• Similar to the previous cases, we clean the hole from everything unnecessary.
• We drive in dowels or screw in powerful screws. If the pothole is large enough, they need to be additionally tied with wire.
• Remove debris and dust with a dry brush or vacuum cleaner.
• Wet the surface with plenty of water.
• Add broken brick or crushed stone to a standard cement-sand mortar.
• Use the resulting mixture to seal the fallen piece of the wall, let the solution sit and dry.
• If necessary, we plaster the surface of the entire wall or locally a section of the hole, then dry it and repair the cracks.
• Now you can start finishing.

Cement mortar should be applied in thin layers, allowing them to dry thoroughly. A thick layer is guaranteed to crack or fall off.

What to do with large holes in the wall?

After careless dismantling of pipes, pipes remain in the walls. big holes. To restore the integrity of the surface, you will first have to fill the main part of the breach with brick. We widen the hole to make the masonry even. Then on mortar lay out the brick as the main patch. We carry out further manipulations according to the algorithm described above.

Repairing holes in drywall

Carefully remove a small piece of old wallpaper around the hole. Using a knife, apply plaster diluted with water onto the wet surface. Glue a new piece of wallpaper on top of it. You can also stick a decorative applique on the damaged surface.

If the gypsum board is damaged by a “fallen” cabinet, the repair algorithm will be as follows:

1. Draw a square or rectangle around the hole with a pencil, capturing the cracked surface.
2. Use a hacksaw to cut out a hole along the marked lines.
3. From the wrong side, we attach two parallel bars to the drywall with screws, on which the patch will be held. Depending on the size, the number of tires increases. Can be used as a frame wooden slats, durable plastic, metal profile.
4. We transfer the outline of the cut piece onto a new sheet of drywall and cut it out as accurately as possible.
5. We attach the patch to the slats previously screwed to the wall, driving the screws so that the caps do not protrude above the surface of the sheet.
6. We seal the seams with gypsum putty.
7. We remove irregularities with sandpaper.
8. We carry out further priming either in the area of ​​the former hole or on the entire surface of the wall.

There are times when the damaged area is too large. In this case, we calculate what is cheaper and easier - to repair a piece or replace the entire sheet.

If plasterboard wall not broken through, but only slightly dented and cracked, there is another way to seal the surface: stick it on the damaged area, and then rub it with a repair compound. After drying, smooth the surface using sandpaper.

Each room or apartment requires a careful, economic attitude. It is important to whitewash the ceiling, floor, frames on time. Repair work medium weight easy to do with your own hands.

How to seal plaster?

First of all, determine whether the plaster is firmly attached to the base. This can be determined by tapping the walls or ceiling with a hammer. If a dull sound is heard during tapping, it means that the adhesion strength of the plaster to the base is insufficient. In marked places better plaster beat off.

Plaster defects are removed or repaired as follows:

1. Clean the surface from which the old plaster has been knocked off, or the area from which the plaster has fallen off, thoroughly with a scraper, lightly moistening it with water to avoid excessive dust and contamination of the room.

2. Apply a pre-prepared plaster solution to the damaged areas. The solution is prepared in different compositions depending on the surface on which it will be applied (composition of solutions for plastering walls - see below).

Mix the indicated materials thoroughly with water until a creamy mass is obtained. It is best to apply the solution manually using a wooden device called a “falcon” and a metal spatula – a “trowel” or an ordinary children’s spatula with a flat surface. The solution is placed on the “falcon” and sprayed onto the wall with a “trowel”.

3. After spraying the solution onto the wall, level it evenly over the entire surface to be repaired with a special wooden trowel. Move the grater from bottom to top, then zigzag your hand left and right. This helps to distribute the solution evenly over the surface so that it is more effective fix loose plaster.

Composition of mortar for plastering walls

The following compositions are used for stone surfaces:

1) mix from 1.25 parts by weight to 1 part by weight of lime and 3 parts by weight of sand;

2) 1 part by weight of lime, 0.4 parts by weight of clay and 5 parts by weight of sand;

3) 1 part by weight of clay, 3 parts by weight of sand and 0.5 parts by weight of fibrous additives (any highly crushed rags).

To plaster a concrete surface, use a solution of the following composition:

1) 1 part by weight of cement, 4 parts by weight of sand, 0.2-0.3 parts by weight of lime;

2) 1 part by weight of cement, 1 part by weight of lime and 6 parts by weight of sand.

For wooden surface mix:

1) 1 part by weight of lime and 2 parts by weight of sand or 1 part by weight of lime and 2.5 parts of sand;

2) 1 part by weight lime, 3 parts by weight clay, 3 parts by weight sand and 3 parts by weight fiber additives.

Tools for repairing cracks in plaster

All connections, including those used in furniture production, can be divided into two categories: detachable and one-piece.

The latter constitute a special category, since special requirements are imposed on them. They work under conditions of temperature and humidity changes, which affects their durability and stability. And if detachable connections can be tightened or sorted out, then such a procedure cannot be carried out with permanent ones.

A little about the characteristics of D4 glue adhesives

In furniture production, adhesive permanent joints are mainly used. Since furniture is usually made from wood materials or derivatives of them, appropriate adhesives are used. One of the most important criteria characterizing glue is its water resistance. So, glue D4 It is considered the most water-resistant compared to the others. This is all the more important because polyvinyl acetate dispersions, which are widely used as adhesive compositions for furniture, work even in tropical climates.

About gluing

The drying parameters of the glue during application are affected by temperature, humidity and the pressing force of the elements being glued. More high temperature reduces the time required for compression, and humidity increases it.

Another point is the humidity of the surfaces being glued. For most moisture-resistant adhesives it should be between 7 and 10%. That is, the surfaces must be dry.

A little physics

The physics of the process is such that during the absorption of moisture, the adhesive layer swells, and during evaporation and recoil, on the contrary, it dries out and loses in size. Such fluctuations lead to the fact that the adhesive seam “dissipates” and loses strength and geometric stability. Essentially, these cyclic vibrations lead to the destruction of the joint and the furniture as a whole. This is why the moisture resistance of the glue is so important.

ABOUT THE PROCESS OF ADHESION USING D4 GLUE

When gluing, it is advisable to reduce the gap between the parts to a minimum, since a large tolerance and an increase in the glue layer reduce the strength of the seam and increase the drying time. Glue is applied to one of the surfaces and the surfaces are pressed against each other. It also doesn't hurt to clamp them with a clamp. The seam gains its final strength and water resistance after 7 days. As a rule, glue does not change the color of the wood, but contact with metal should be avoided, since, together with the tannic acids of the wood itself, it can change its color. The adhesive layer itself can also be painted.