The craftsman brothers built a jet ski from plywood. DIY jet ski - drawings for a homemade jet ski DIY jet ski drawings

In the mid-80s, small, high-speed, extremely maneuverable motorized vessels under the general name “jet ski”: “jetski”, “waterboat”, “jet ski” were widely advertised on television screens in many countries. They immediately won the hearts of water sports fans, displacing fans of windsurfers, water skis and representatives of some types of water-motor sports.

However, repeating the design of the jet ski at home due to high requirements to the power of the propeller-engine group of ships (at least 35 - 40 hp) and the complexity of reproducing hydrodynamic surfaces is quite difficult. For those who are excited about this idea, it is better to contact more simple designs. For example, read the publication on the water roller in No. 6 of the “Modelist-Constructor” magazine for 1991. If for a number of reasons this scheme is not suitable, then you can try to design the machine proposed below. It consists of a frame, two pairs (front and rear) of floats, a windshield fairing, an engine and a steering device.

The materials you will need are: polystyrene foam of any brand (preferably packaging), some plywood, old skis, several steel pipes, any motorcycle or moped engine, epoxy glue (3 - 4 l), fiberglass (4 - 5 m2), tools and... patience.

On a flat surface (possibly on the floor), you should depict the design of the jet ski in two projections (scale 1:1) and pre-cut the material (pipes and foam plastic) according to them.

Floats require special attention during manufacture. They are made from foam blocks, plywood root ribs and power elements fastening by sequential assembly and gluing. Then use a hacksaw and sanding blocks to bring it to the desired shape, pasted over with thin paper and applied in one or two layers of fiberglass impregnated epoxy glue(bottom to cheekbones - in three or four layers). The floats are attached to the frame using transverse beams made from ordinary skis (we used semi-plastic ones) and reinforced with lower duralumin shelves. Such beams reduce shock loads when moving. If they are insufficiently strong or the vessel is heavily loaded, they should be replaced with metal ones.

The frame is welded from steel seamless pipes(0 70 mm) in a protective gas environment and reinforced with transverse gussets. In the absence of pipes required sizes You can use small-diameter pipes (30 - 40 mm), only in this case the design of the load-bearing frame will have to be made spatial, which will complicate the work somewhat.

1 - front float, 2 - front fairing, 3 - steering device, 4 - gas tank, 5 - engine, 6 - seat, 7 - frame, 8 - rear floats, 9 - outboard engine installation option, 10 - exhaust pipe, 11 - transmission shaft, 12, 13 - transverse beams. 14 - fiberglass covering, 15 - root rib of the float (plywood, s5...6), 16 - filler (foam plastic bars), 17, 18 - power fastening elements for the floats (plywood, s5...6).

1 - pads (St3, sheet, s3), 2 - support for fastening the front floats (St3, pipe Ø32), 3 - step (D16T, sheet, s2.5), 4, 5, 6 - mounting brackets for the rear floats (St3, sheet, s3), 7 - frame parts (steel 45, pipe Ø 70), 8.11 - gussets (St3, sheet, s3), 9 - M8 bolts (6 pcs.), 10 - transverse rear float mounting beam (shown conditionally) , 12 - footrest mounting plate (St3, sheet, s3).

1 - lower beam flange (D16T, sheet, s2.2), 2 - upper beam flange (ski), 3 - M4 screw, 4 - cover plate (D16T, sheet, s2), 5 - bracket (D16T, angle 80x80x2.5 ), 6 - reinforcement of the float (plywood, s5...6).

1 - bolt M5, 2 - fork (D16, pipe Ø32), 3 - rudder blade (D16T, sheet, s2.2).

The steering device can be installed under the stern of the jet ski in classic version or, as we did using bicycle parts, directly on the same shaft with the steering column, which is much simpler. True, this significantly increases the effort on the steering wheel. The shape of the rudder blade is usually chosen to be close to a square. However, you can control the device with your feet, just as they do in a speedway or road circuit racing on motorcycles.

The engine, and it can be almost any (even from a starter, but with a power of no more than 18 hp), is mounted in the lower part of the frame near the driver’s feet. The propeller is driven through a shaft connected to the engine by a bevel gear. You can use any other gears, it is only important that the propeller shaft rotates no faster than 3000 rpm. Gas tank and others auxiliary elements engines will fit from an old motorcycle or moped. Mounting points to the frame for various engines (for example, PD-8M, Sh-62) are selected locally, but at least at three points. The best solution There will be the use of elastic fastening through shock absorber blocks with rubber-metal gaskets.

The exhaust pipe is located based on convenience and safety, insulated and secured to the frame with yokes. Thermal insulation includes asbestos sheet, three to four layers of fiberglass mat and a tin casing. But you can do it easier and abandon the exhaust pipe if you arrange cooling of the exhaust pipeline with sea water. In addition, supplying water under the cooling jacket will significantly reduce the noise level, especially for two-stroke engines.

For design and construction homemade jet ski It took several winter and spring months. In the summer, Stanislav hung a Veterok outboard motor (eight Horse power) and lowered “Marlin”... into the city pond. The jet ski even planes there with one rider! But for a trip together, the power of the Veterok engine was not enough. Later, another engine was tested - an unusual combination of “Whirlwind” and “Hello”.

The fact is that in the SLA Rotor club, in which Stanislav worked, the “tops” of the Privetov-22 boats went to the manufacture of delta engines. And all the corners of the club were littered with the “lower classes” who remained out of work. There, in the corner, rested the delta “Vikhr-ZOE”, which the pilots did not like, with electronic non-contact ignition. Without thinking twice, Stanislav made an adapter plate from duralumin, unfolding the “Whirlwind” on it so that it could articulate with the “Hello” column and fit under its hood. The first tests homemade jet ski with the new engine they showed: this is what we need! Already at a speed of 50 km/h, the jet ski confidently reached planing and easily towed a water skier.

To transport his device, the designer built a nimble trailer cart with rubber-lined supports. Together - wife Olga took the bow, and Stanislav took the transom rails - they lifted the Marlin and placed it on the trailer. Then they put the boat motor in the trunk of the car and drove home from the garage to pick up the children so that the whole family could go out of town to a pond. And often - to a rather distant one. For example, the Korovins repeatedly stopped on the banks of the Nugush reservoir, located 80 km from Kumertau.

"Marlin" floats very well. It is possible to turn it over only with great effort. Therefore, unlike similar imported devices, you can catch fish from its deck (fortunately there is somewhere to put it!), without fear of waves from a passing vessel, you can stand calmly at your full height, and an adult can climb onto it from the water not only from the transom , but even from the board. The Marlin tilts, but does not capsize. What about management? It is so simple and easy that Olga, who had never touched the steering wheel of a car or motorcycle before, mastered it on the first try! In addition, the device is quite cheap to operate, because its fuel is quite affordable A-76 gasoline, while a foreign jet ski requires expensive Ai-95 and equally expensive imported oil.

CASE CONSTRUCTION Housing jet ski consists of many isolated compartments: bow and stern trunks, as well as twelve (six per side) side sealed volumes formed by frames, longitudinal walls, deck and bottom. In addition, the sides provide additional buoyancy to the apparatus, since they are also small, but sealed cavities. Construction materials, from which “Marlin” is made, is fiberglass (a multilayer composition of fiberglass, mainly T-25 grade, and epoxy binder) and foam plastic (mostly PS-200 grade). In the manufacture of individual components and parts of the jet ski, duralumin, stainless steel, plywood, wood and leatherette were used. The body of the apparatus was made in parts.

Separately, the fairing of the nose trunk, the bottom and the sides were glued (usually from four layers of fiberglass with epoxy glue) onto plywood blocks. The fairing is reinforced from the inside with three upper stringers and four oblique linings, and the bottom is reinforced with four stringers (inside) and two longitudinal steps (outside). All these reinforcements are strips of foam plastic of various sections, covered with fiberglass tapes. A powerful keel beam is also glued into the bottom - a thick-walled duralumin profile, to the front end of which a heel - the steering shaft bearing - is bolted.

After joining the nose cone and the bottom, the line of their connection from the inside was also reinforced with two side stringers - wide strips of foam plastic and the same wide strips of fiberglass with epoxy glue. From the outside (front), the fairing and the bottom are additionally secured by a bow rail made of titanium pipe 18x1 mm. The first physically real frame No. 6 (frames No. 1-5 are conditional) is entirely cut out of a sheet of foam plastic 20 mm thick, covered on both sides with fiberglass and inserted into the opening intended for it, where it separates the bow trunk from the rest of the hull.

The frame is not solid: in the middle there is an inclined hole drilled in it for the steering shaft to exit, and two luggage hatches with removable covers are cut on the sides. (The latter are equipped with quick-release hood locks that can be opened with the tip of a screwdriver or even the edge of a coin.) Frames No. 7 and 8 are similar in composition to the sixth: foam plastic and a layer of fiberglass with “epoxy” on the sides. The strength design of the hull is complemented by four longitudinal elements made of 20 mm thick foam plastic glued on both sides: two bulkheads stretching from frame No. 6 to the transom and hidden under the deck, and two walls protruding above the deck and forming the volume of the aft trunk.

At the rear they are connected by an end wall with square hole for the passage of the steering rod, and on top of them lies a folding double seat made of foam rubber and leatherette. The seat is hingedly connected by two window hinges to a bracket (an oak block glued between the walls of frame No. 6) and is held in the folded-up position by a simple clamp made of duralumin parts. The transom was obtained by building up the end part of the bottom from the inside with layers of fiberglass with epoxy resin up to a thickness of 5 mm. Further, also from the inside, the transom is reinforced with a layer of foam plastic 5 mm thick (except for the central zone on which the transom board is placed) and finally with four more layers of fiberglass.

The outside of the hull is riveted along the contour of the transom with a strip of stainless steel, protruding beyond the housing at the bottom by a maximum of 22 mm. Such a protrusion is necessary so that jets of water during planing do not stick to the transom and do not create additional bottom resistance to the flow. Holes are drilled in the transom to drain water that has leaked into the compartments. The holes are closed with tight plugs. A transom board with epoxy glue is placed on the central zone of the transom, on which the boat motor is hung. The board consists of three layers of plywood of varying thickness.

After installation on the transom, it was covered on both sides with fiberglass (four layers) and reinforced with two duralumin overlays for the motor mounting clamps. This entire package of linings is tightened along the contour with six M5 bolts, and the shelf of the front lining is still attached to the deck with three screws. Since the main force from the engine to the body of the jet ski is transmitted through the transom board and the walls of the aft trunk, the junctions of the board and the walls deep in the trunk are reinforced with two triangular gussets made of 3 mm thick duralumin sheet.

With a rear flange 20 mm wide, each gusset is attached to the board with four screws using epoxy glue, and the triangular plane is attached to its wall with four M5 through bolts. Outside, handrails made of duralumin pipe are attached to the transom and transom board with M5 bolts, the brackets of which are riveted from sheet titanium. Among other things, handrails are used when towing a water skier. The halyard (nylon cord with a diameter of 5 mm and a length of 30 m) is attached with a carabiner to the outer brackets of the handrails.

The deck of the jet ski is also made of a sheet of foam plastic 20 mm thick, covered with fiberglass on top. The deck rests on frames No. 7 and 8, longitudinal bulkheads and the ends of the walls of the aft trunk, and in addition, on supports made of foam plastic bars with a cross-section of 20x20 mm, attached with epoxy glue to the walls of the aft trunk. Along the contour, the deck is glued to frame No. 6, the junction of the bottom and sides, and the transom. And also on the left bottom corner The transom board has a hole for draining the water accumulated in the aft trunk, closed with a tight plug, and in the lower right corner is attached a bracket for an external pressure receiver of the oncoming water flow (speed sensor).

The receiver is connected to the speedometer by a thin rubber hose, laid along the wall of the aft trunk and brought out into a special hole in the end cap of the trunk at deck level. The cables from the battery and the throttle cable from the carburetor throttle control drive on the steering wheel are also laid in the same harness with this hose. From the same end plug, a fuel hose with a booster pump “bulb” embedded in it is brought out (through another hole).

STEERING All controls of the jet ski are concentrated on the steering wheel, located on the cut of the nose trunk fairing. The steering shaft - a steel pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - rotates in two bearings: in the socket of a U-shaped heel, screwed to the keel beam, and in a polyurethane washer built into the decorative steering wheel casing. A steering wheel crossbar made of a steel pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is welded to the upper end of the shaft, on the “horns” of which motorcycle handles are placed (the speedometer and controls here are also motorcycle ones). The steering wheel of the first Marlin did not have a decorative fiberglass cover. But in new version appeared and, I must say, significantly enriched the design of the jet ski. At least it looks finished now.

Approximately in the middle of its length, the steering shaft has a steel bipod, pivotally connected to a rather long duralumin rod. The hinge used is a ShS-6 ball bearing pressed into the end of the bipod, colloquially called a “fish eye”. It allows movement in a wide range of angles, which is very important in the control system of a jet ski, where the control action of the thrust is transmitted to the massive engine, causing it to turn and change its position on the transom board. The front end of the tie rod is equipped with a tip for connecting to a ball bearing, and the rear end is connected to a rocker mounted on the outboard motor. The “Whirlwind - Hello” engine combination is started using the starter button.

If the battery fails, the starter cord is used. Everything you need during the trip is located on board the Marlin. Onboard property is distributed among the trunks as follows: boat fuel tank with a capacity of 20 liters, towing halyard, fishing gear and other luggage - in the bow; battery, tool box, folding oars and personal belongings are in the stern.

Theoretical drawing jet ski (bottom projection)

Theoretical drawing of a jet ski (hull projection)

Jet ski "Marlin" (engine not shown): 1.9 - holes for draining water from the hull; 2.7 - longitudinal steps; 3.8 - transom handrails; 4 - bracket for remote water pressure receiver (speed sensor); 5 - transom board; 6 - hole for draining water from the aft trunk; 10 - left bow trunk hatch; 11.19 - removable hatch covers; 12 - nose trunk fairing; 13 - double seat; 14-left steering handle; 15 - starter start button and stop switch; 16- speedometer; 17.24 - halves of the decorative steering wheel cover; 18-right steering wheel handle with carburetor throttle control drive (throttle handle); 20 - engine turning rod; 21 - bow rail with support; 22 - steering shaft; 23 - steering wheel fairing; 25 - seat in raised position; 26 - seat hinge; 27 - raised seat lock; 28 - wall of the aft trunk; 29 - steering rod; 30 - bottom of the jet ski

Body of a homemade jet ski: 1 - locking loop of the left hatch cover of the bow trunk; 2,3 - hatch covers of the bow trunk; 4 - transom (foam); 5 - transom board; 6 - bow rail with support (titanium, pipe 18x1; sheet s3); 7 - nose trunk fairing; 8 - right oblique pads; 9 - side walls of the aft trunk; 10-end wall with hole for tie rod; 11.40 - bulwarks (4 layers of fiberglass); 12 - deck (foam); 13- left transom handrail (D16T, pipe 25x2); 14 - frame No. 8; 15 - frame No. 7; 16 - frame No. 6; 17 - bottom stringers; 18 - keel beam (D16T); 19 - “crust” of the keel beam (2 layers of fiberglass); 20- bottom; 21 - deck covering (2 layers of fiberglass); 22 - core of the transom board (plywood s5); 23 - outer layers of the transom board (plywood s 12); 24 - transom board overlays (D16T, SHEET S 3); 25.27 - covering the transom board (4 layers of fiberglass); 26 - trapezoid (gluing fiberglass s5); 28 - right gusset (D16T, sheet s3); 29 - keel part of the bottom (4 layers of fiberglass); 30 - shell of the nose trunk fairing (4 layers of fiberglass); 31 - “crust” of the upper stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 32 - upper stringer (foam); 33 - bottom shell (4 layers of fiberglass); 34 - left side stringer (foam); 35 - “crust” of the side stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 36 - bottom stringer (foam); 37 - “crust” of the bottom stringer (2 layers of fiberglass); 38 - seat mounting bracket (oak, block 65x20); 39- hole for the steering shaft; 41 - left bulkhead (foam); 42 - covering the bulkhead (one layer of fiberglass); 43-longitudinal redans (foam); 44-“crust” redan (2 layers of fiberglass); 45 - left deck support (foam); 46 - transom covering (4 layers of fiberglass); 47 - hole for draining water from the housing; 48-hood lock; 49 - filler (foam); 50 - sheathing (2 layers of T-10 fiberglass); 51 - rivets with a diameter of 3; 52- hook (D16T. profile s l,8); 53.55 - handrail mounting brackets (titanium, SHEET S3); 54 - rivets (steel, pipe 8x 1)

Steering: 1 - steering shaft (steel, pipe 20x1.5); 2 - steering wheel (steel, pipe 25x2); 3 - steering rod (D16T, pipe 25x2); 4 - engine rotation lever (D16 T, pipe 25x2); 5 - support-bearing (polyurethane); 6 - cover (steel, sheet s2); 7 - decorative casing (fiberglass); 8 - self-tapping screw 3x10 (8 pcs. along the contour); 9 - ball bearing ShS-6; 10 - tubular rivets (steel, pipe 6x0.5, 3 pcs.); 11,14,17,19 - bolts with self-locking nuts M5; 12 - steering bipod (steel, pipe 24x2, sheet s5); 13 - tip (steel); 15 - socket (steel, pipe 26x3); 16 - heel (steel); 18 - keel beam (D16T); 20 - keel (bottom, fiberglass); 21 - bolt with self-locking nut M6; 22 - earring (steel, sheet s2, 2 pcs.)

Raised seat clamp: 1 - loop (D16T, corner 26x26x2); 2- lever (D16T, sheet s4); 3 - stop (D16T, corner 26x20x2); 4 - “rivet with diameter 5 (AMts)

Prepare a sleigh in the summer, and... a jet ski in the winter - why not? Alas, not everyone can afford to buy a jet ski, but since you can’t buy it, let’s try to assemble it yourself. This will not take as much time and effort as it might seem.

Let us renounce the use in advance, even though industrial models are usually made on this basis, the fuel consumption is too high - water travel on such a unit is very expensive. It is best to use a boat motor - there is cost savings and a sharp increase in functionality: whether for a long journey, or for water skiing, and the speed promises to be exciting. All you need is to select the screws at the best speed for the selected mode.

It’s as easy as shelling pears to assemble a jet ski using a system – two floats, a seat, a speed control lever, a steering wheel, and a cable control transmission. Please note that a good float is always made of polystyrene foam and externally lined with fiberglass and epoxy glue. 5-6 layers of fabric are placed on the bottom of such floats, and no more than three on the sides, this is enough. Special wooden frames located in the places where the seat and the catamaran are attached distribute the weight of the riders and the structure.

You can experiment a little, for example, equip your creation with a third float or work a little on the design - many “garage” developers produce very nice water bikes, moreover, high-quality ones.

3 float jet ski

The floats are made of polystyrene foam, power fastening elements, and root ribs made of plywood. The role of cross beams is played by the most ordinary cross-country skis - simple, durable, good load absorption. Here, of course, at your discretion, you can replace them with seamless ones steel pipes, at least for duralumin ones.

Classic jet ski

Lever-cable control system, just like the kit for remote control outboard boat engine. However, it uses a motorcycle handlebar, and the rotating motorcycle handle serves as the throttle lever.

Such a water horse can be transported on a rack on the roof of a car - its weight and dimensions allow you to save on an additional trailer.

Boat type jet ski

This creation can be used, for example, for fishing or swimming, or traveling around the water area. The wide hull will prevent the jet ski from turning over even when an adult climbs on it. Fairly good stability will help you stay afloat if a boat or boat suddenly floats by. On this transport, diverging waves are not at all scary.

What’s remarkable is that stability doesn’t really slow down speed. The hull is wide, but some jet skis of this type can be put on plane using motors from 8 horsepower - for one person, more powerful motors (Vikhr) - for two, and even a water skier on the back. Impressive, isn't it?

But there is a drawback here - you will have to fork out money for a trailer. However, loading/unloading a homemade jet ski will require the strength of only two people.

Select a drawing, purchase materials and try it out - summer is still so far away, but time will fly by when creating a water bike with your own hands. Wishing you a fast and safe ride.

Magazine Modelist-Constructor

This is not quite ordinary small motor boat is a kind of hybrid of a motorboat and a motor scooter. From the first, the aquaroller received an increased seaworthiness hull with “deep V” contours, a flat ski that ensures stable planing in various modes of movement, and a bow that allows you to easily ride the wave with minimal splashing. Well, the method of seating the driver, the principles of course and speed control, and partly the technique of taking turns were borrowed from a motor scooter.

Frame small motor boat - the aquaroller is assembled using classical technology: it is a frame-stringer frame, covered with 3 mm thick plywood. So let's get started. First of all, a theoretical drawing is drawn on a flat, life-size sheet of plywood - the “body” projection. Then you need to prepare straight-layer pine slats with a cross-section of 15X30 mm - frame frames are assembled from them in accordance with the theoretical drawing.

It's done like this. To the plaza, covered with plastic film (it is necessary so that the glued frames can be easily separated from the plaza without rendering it unusable), slats are successively adjusted, as shown in the pictures of the frames, and each of the slats is temporarily fixed on a sheet of plywood with two small nails. Then, in accordance with the drawings, cut out the gussets from the same plywood and fix them on the frames with epoxy glue and 0 3x15 mm screws. The frame is separated from the plaza, and the same gussets are installed on the opposite side of the frame. It is advisable to lay foam plastic with epoxy glue into the cavities formed.

The last (ninth) frame - the transom board - has a different design. This frame is sheathed on both sides with three-millimeter plywood with continuous filling of the internal cavity with foam plastic, and the outboard motor mounting areas are covered with pine bars with a cross-section of 15X20 mm. The prepared frames must be secured on a flat board-slip with a cross-section of 50X300 mm using small nails and slats. Try to set the frames as much as possible, or more accurately, in accordance with the drawings - the symmetry of the body largely determines the performance of the aquaroller and its stability on course. The next stage of assembly is the installation of stringers, longitudinal elements of a set of pine slats with a cross section of 15X15 mm.

They are secured in the grooves of the frame frames with screws and epoxy glue. After the resin has cured, the frame is cleaned with a plane and a rasp: the protruding ribs of the stringer slats are brought flush relative to the imaginary surface of the body. It is best to start covering the hull from the bottom, or more precisely, from the ski. It will require a plywood strip 4 mm thick. The workpiece should be slightly larger than required for the body - after gluing, the excess material is carefully cut off using a plane (it is advisable that the piece of iron be sharpened literally to razor sharp). Next, sections of the bottom are sheathed, then the sides, and lastly the deck and fairings.

This is done using epoxy glue and 0 3X15 mm screws with a “countersunk” head - preferably brass or galvanized steel. Screws and glue are used to attach triangular cross-section slats to the body - zygomatic and bottom longitudinal steps; they significantly facilitate the aquaroller's planing and increase stability in rough seas. The joints are rounded using epoxy putty. Using the same putty and polystyrene foam, the fairing in the stem area is also formed - the so-called “blade”.

Finally, the body is covered with fiberglass in one or two layers (the bottom to the cheekbones in three or four layers). If you can’t find it, any other one will do, even burlap. The fabric is carefully molded to the surface of the hull skin with a hard brush. During the curing process, it is advisable to firmly rub the flap cut to its shape onto the corresponding area. polyethylene film. This method makes it possible to obtain a surface that requires virtually no further processing. The afterpeak hood is assembled separately and hinged to the seventh frame.

This makes it easier to install the control cables on the engine body in the future, and will also allow air bags to be placed in the afterpeak, ensuring the water roller is unsinkable. Such bags can serve as chambers for volleyballs or children's plastic “logs” in fabric covers - several pieces in one cover. The same air tanks are placed in the bow of the hull - the forepeak. A few words about the control system. It is of a lever-cable type and, in principle, differs little from the one that is sold in a kit for remote control of an outboard outboard engine.

The only difference is that instead of a car-type steering wheel, the water roller uses a motorcycle or moped steering wheel, and the throttle control lever is replaced with a motorcycle rotating handle. Please note that this knob must be adjusted so that when it is released, it necessarily returns to the “low gas” position. Otherwise, in case of accidental falls, the water roller will rush off without a rider and cause irreparable trouble. The inside of the body is covered in two or three layers with hot drying oil and, after it has completely dried, with a layer of oil varnish. On the outside, after sanding and puttying, the body is painted with a layer of glypthal primer, and then two or three layers of glypthal enamels. Of course, with intermediate puttying, sanding and final polishing.

Payol (cockpit floor) - made of pine slats with a section of 10X30 mm. It is assembled using glue and screws and, after sanding and impregnation in two layers of hot drying oil, it is covered with oil varnish. The seat of the aquaroller is a plywood trunk box with a lid, onto which a 20 mm thick layer of foam plastic and the same layer of foam rubber are glued. The seat is covered with artificial leather. The additional equipment of the aquaroller includes life-saving equipment - for example, a vest or a belt made of foam blocks connected with a nylon cord.

It is also necessary to have two oars on board. It is advisable to go out on the water for the first time with a “dry” engine. Sit in the driver's seat and, carefully rocking the water roller, determine the limits of its stability. It is best to do this in shallow water and with two people - insurance in in this case absolutely necessary. Once you are comfortable, start the engine. Moving at low speed, determine how obedient the boat is to the movement of the steering wheel.

It may very well be that the features of centering and mass distribution on your aquaroller will require the installation of a small plywood profiled fin in the front part of the hull - make it easily removable and try to attach it at various distances from the transom board with intermediate experimental runs and monitoring the controllability and stability of the scooter.

As already mentioned, controlling an aquaroller is reminiscent of driving a motorcycle: when driving on turns, the driver’s body works in the same way, and the boat behaves “like a motorcycle” when cornering. Therefore, those who know how to ride a motorcycle or, at worst, a bicycle, will be able to master the water roller faster.

And one last thing. Please note that today not all bodies of water are “open” to motorized vessels; Therefore, before you start building a water roller, find out whether boats and motor boats can access the water area of ​​the body of water closest to you. By the way, the dimensions and weight of the boat completely allow it to be transported on the roof rack of any car. This means that for motorists, there is essentially no problem with a body of water closed to motorboats.

Rice. 1. Theoretical drawing of the body of the aquaroller.

Figure 2. Aquaroller body and frame design.