The floor creaks, possible causes and methods for eliminating the creaking. What to do if the floors squeak: a guide for those who are tired of preventing the floors from squeaking, what to do

Often moving around wooden floor, you can hear the terrifying creak of the floorboards. It irritates those around you, distracts you from important matters, excites you, gets on your nerves, and puts you on guard. It will not be possible to quietly sneak out of the house without disturbing its inhabitants. At night, the unexpected sound of creaking floorboards will wake up almost all the sleepy residents of the apartment. Today we will tell you what to do if your wooden floor creaks.

What is a wooden floor

First of all, let's figure out what it is wood covering.

Wooden floorboards are nailed onto bars 150 cm long and 50 cm thick (joists). This is how the floors were made Soviet times. There is another option for wooden floors.

The subfloor, which is plywood or planks, is screwed onto the joists with self-tapping screws. You can put small pads under the joists. A finished floor in the form of parquet, laminate, or solid board is laid on top of the leveled rough base.

Why does a wooden floor squeak?

We often ask ourselves the question: “Why do the wooden floors in the house creak?” Today we will try to find out.

Causes of squeaking:

How to repair squeaky wood floors

First of all, you need to determine the cause by listening to which floorboard is creaking.

But this can be done by removing laminate, linoleum and other finished floor coverings. Walk across the subfloor. If it does not squeak, then you will have to re-lay the finished floor. If the creaking continues, we continue to look for creaky floorboards.

Entire groups of floorboards can also creak. They need to be removed and replaced with new ones. The lack of material, time, money dismisses this method of removing squeaks.

What to do if a wooden floor creaks without disassembling it

Let's look at the simplest means and methods of getting rid of squeaking boards.

Rub wax candle seams between wooden floorboards. This method will help stop the unpleasant sound.

Eliminate creaking in the apartment without dismantling the floor, on long time dowels will help. At an angle of 45 degrees, at a distance of 50 cm from each other, drill holes with a diameter of 8 mm along the seam. Insert dowels into them, securing adhesive composition. The pins will provide the floor with a stable and strong foundation.

To prevent wooden floors from creaking, it will help cementing loose lumber. Because of our weight, the boards beneath us sag and become loose. Cavities appear between the concrete floor and them. If you fill them, the squeak will disappear.

Let's find the board that causes the unpleasant sound, drill a hole in it and pour liquid cement through it with a syringe.

In order for the cement to harden firmly, you need to pump it under the floor gradually, in portions. Perform this action until the cement stops entering the hole. Plaster or cover with mastic on top.

It will also help to strengthen the wooden floor so that it does not creak. pumping foam into the hole. It swells and spreads across the empty plane, filling it. As a result, the floor becomes hard and the creaking stops. But not for long. Moving along the floor, we act on the polyurethane foam and destroy it. The plane turns out to be empty again.

IN wooden house and can be used in the countryside metal anchors, if the base under the floor is concrete. The anchor is a hex bolt. Inserting it into the drilled floor, turn the dowel head. It begins to open the petals below, getting stuck firmly in the hole. The logs become sandwiched between the anchors. Unable to move, the wooden floorboards are also firmly attached to the base.

This is very reliable way, but expensive. Each anchor can support no more than 30 kg. To secure the entire floor you need about 200 dowels, each of which costs more than 50 rubles. So calculate how much it will cost to secure the floor with anchors!

You can get rid of creaking lumber by hammering wooden wedges in the cracks between the floorboards. To make the wedges stick better, coat them with glue. Treat the wedges with an antiseptic. To prevent the wooden wedges from moving away from the boards, we drive the wedges at a distance of 50-80 cm from each other. You can drive the wedges further. To do this, use a chisel to move the floorboards away, lifting them. You can drive a wedge into the gap between the boards to a depth of 3-5 mm.

If the wooden floor in your apartment creaks, you can pour graphite powder with talc into the cracks. If the floor is old, made of rotten boards, then this method is ineffective.

But you can also use sealant based on sawdust, varnish and paint. This mixture will firmly connect the boards together. The sealant is sold in the store. Self-production Such sealant is also possible. Mix the ingredients (4:1:1) and pour to the base of the floor.

If the floorboards of a wooden floor are creaking, then the cracks can be seal with a cord coated with PVA glue. We put such a cord between the cracks, and cover the top with sawdust mixed with glue. Sawdust should be placed in cracks above floor level. When the glue dries, cut off these bulges.

If the floor is flat, there are no bulges or rotten boards, but the creaking is still heard, cover wooden boards with plywood, which we will fix at a distance of 15 cm from each other. The plywood must be thick, at least 12 cm. The places where the plywood is fastened must be on the joists.

The most profitable and easiest way is to secure the boards with self-tapping screws instead of nails. They just need to be screwed to the boards that are loose.

How to rotate a wooden floor so it doesn't creak

To prevent wooden floors from squeaking, it is important to choose the right screws.

They should have threads up to the cap. By screwing such screws into the board, we connect it to the joist.

The gap between the beam and the floorboard will disappear, the lack of free space between the joist and the board will not allow the floorboard to move, and there will be no squeaking.

If you take a self-tapping screw, where the thread is at a certain distance from the head, then, already fastened to the joist, the board will still move along the surface of the screw from the head to the beginning of the thread, making nasty sounds.

But these methods can be used if the squeak is minor. To better secure the floor, it is better to use plastic dowels with screws. Drills into defective boards deep holes by diameter

ru dowels, going 40 mm inside the concrete base. Then dowels are inserted into it and screws are tightened.

If you knock on boards that have already been tightened, you will hear a loud, ringing sound; with loose floorboards, the sound is dull when you knock. By tightening the floor with self-tapping screws, you will eliminate the creaking of the floorboards. At the dacha, in the bathhouse, you can freely use this method. IN apartment building Be careful not to damage the wiring of your downstairs neighbors.

Floor creaks wood floor repair

Let's see how to tighten a wooden floor so it doesn't creak.

If you decide to re-lay the wooden flooring, then look through all the boards, replace the rotten ones where necessary, secure them with self-tapping screws, drowning the caps and covering the recesses with mastic.

If there are a lot of rotten boards, then the rough covering should be dismantled. The floors do not need to be dismantled immediately. First, we will lift 3-5 boards located near the wall and tear them off the floor. Let's look at the logs and what condition they are in.

We will inspect the boards and replace the rotten ones. After replacing the logs, we put the first torn board back in place.

We fix it, then tear it off one board at a time, repairing and replacing the joists and boards. Tearing off the board, we put the old one in place on the other side, fastening it with screws to the joist.

Number the boards so as not to get confused. Pay attention to the joists to see if they are cracked.

Replace the bars with new ones, try moving the logs. If they wobble or move, they need to be secured with wedges.

The wedge is a block sharpened at an angle of 30 degrees. Its length ranges from 30 to 40 cm, and its thickness from 30 to 60, depending on the size and thickness of the log.

Drive a wedge into the joists. Usually two wedges are driven in on each side so that the logs are firmly held on concrete base. Metal corners can also be used to fasten the lags. The boards need to be held together using metal staples, driving them into joists and wedges.

If there are no staples, then you can use scraps of boards, attaching them to the joists with self-tapping screws. Instead of metal wedges, it is enough to use wooden spacers. It is best to use tongue and groove boards for flooring. You can secure the boards together using self-tapping screws, inserting them into the wood at an angle. To keep the boards tightly together, you need to tap the board with a hammer.

Some craftsmen coat the grooves with glue before laying the next board to tightly fasten the boards.

When laying the first board, do not forget to step back from the wall by 15-20 mm. Under the influence of temperature changes and moisture, the board can expand and rest against the wall, destroying and warping the entire floor structure if there is no gap with the wall. The screws near the wall will be covered with baseboards.

How much does the work cost? Wooden floors squeak

The price for eliminating creaking wooden floors in Moscow is 200 rubles per square meter.

We told you about what to do if your wooden floor creaks. We hope that our tips will help you get rid of the annoying sound. We don’t know which method you will choose. But we believe that you will find the most effective one depending on your conditions, desires, capabilities and time.

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Perhaps you cannot find a stronger irritant than a creaking wooden floor. It’s especially annoying if this phenomenon occurs to residents soon after a major renovation and the finishing coating has to be torn off. Today we will tell you what to do if your wooden floors squeak and how to avoid this in the future.

Perhaps there is no stronger irritant than a creaking wooden floor. It’s especially annoying if this phenomenon occurs to residents soon after a major renovation and the finishing coating has to be torn off. Today we will tell you what to do if your wooden floors squeak and how to avoid this in the future.

Causes of squeaking

Actually, there is only one final reason for a creaking floor - friction between two poorly secured parts. But there are three typical places in which this phenomenon can be observed on a wooden floor.

In the simplest case, the floor creaks due to friction between adjacent floorboards: one of them bends under load and scrapes against the adjacent one. Such a creak has a characteristic dry sound and is quite easily detected when successively pushing through the floor boards.

A more characteristic creaking with a thin squeak occurs due to loose fastening of the boards to the joists with nails. Rusty metal inside dry wood creates a really nasty grinding noise and it is much more difficult to determine the location of the occurrence due to the fact that the nail heads are usually hidden under several layers of paint.

The third and rarest type of creaking is loose connections of composite joists and jumpers between them. The appearance of such a creaking noise is typical for frame and multi-storey buildings with complex system wooden floors. The sound of the floor when walking in such cases is muffled and crackling.

Should the floor be torn down?

If the wooden floor was laid with tongue-and-groove boards for painting or covered with varnish, then there is no need to tear off the boards. It is quite possible to eliminate the creaking between the floorboards and from the surface, plus there is a reason to restore the wooden floor, smooth out unevenness with putty, and renew the paintwork.

In some cases, repairs may require tearing out the finished surface or the boardwalk underneath. For example, if the subfloor boards creak, on top of which the finishing floor is laid - la minat or linoleum. In such cases, the finished floor is sorted out, performing the required manipulations and getting rid of squeaks, and then laid back.

If the source of the squeak is the log system, then you will have to carry out more extensive renovation work. The greatest difficulty lies in localizing the creaking joint, which is almost impossible to do blindly. Therefore, the breakdown of the floor planks cannot be avoided.

Wedging method

The creaking ends of the floorboards can be wedged together, thereby concentrating friction in several places and avoiding the string effect. For this, ordinary wooden chips or wedges with a thickness of 0.5 to 3 mm and a width of up to 30–35 mm are used.

This method is good for eliminating squeaks in old floors made of good-quality boards, where cracks of uneven thickness have appeared as a result of shrinkage and warping. The first wedge is driven in at the widest point of the creaking joint, then several more are added at an indentation of 50–80 cm. To make it easier for the wedge to fit in, you can widen the joint with a chisel, hammering it in by 3–5 mm.

Wedging is a rather meticulous process, but it is almost the only method of local repair of a creaking floor without tearing down the flooring. After compacting the boards, it is necessary to seal the cracks with putty; in the simplest case, a mixture of PVA and fine sawdust will do.

Reinforcement of the floor

The reason for the appearance of squeaking at the ends and fasteners of the boards may be that the flooring is not pressed tightly enough to the joists. This typical disease wooden floor: after several drying cycles, the nails can become loose and the entire flooring becomes loose.

The essence of strengthening the floor is to restore the tightness of the boards with self-tapping screws, which do not lose the quality of the pressure over time. The catch is that by pressing a warped board in one place, you can loosen the fastening at other points, so it would be correct to reinforce the entire floor at once.

Another subtlety is the need to drill the boards before screwing in the screws to avoid the threads getting caught in them. The method is ideal for eliminating creaking in rough floor. Finish coatings can also be strengthened with self-tapping screws, but marks from the caps will have to be masked with putty, which, moreover, must be matched to the tone of the wood when opening the floors with varnish.

The greatest difficulty is to determine the location of the joists if the traces of the flooring are hidden. Among all the methods, two of the most effective ones can be identified: drilling with control of the drill output in order to determine the installation step of the logs and tearing off the outer boards.

Overhauling the boardwalk

A major overhaul of a wooden floor is the only way to eliminate squeaks with a guarantee, without requiring significant financial investments. And with creaking logs, there is practically no alternative to this method.

The idea is to sequentially tear down and reattach the boards without changing their order for a tighter fit. First, 3-5 boards are removed from one edge, then, with good additional light, they visually assess the space under the floor, the safety of the joists, and the presence of harmful organic matter.

When sorting through, they fix the first board and tear it down one by one after checking and fixing each subsequent one. All boards are checked for rotting and damage by pests, unsuitable ones are replaced with new ones of the same thickness, adjusting the ends with a plane for tight joining.

To avoid squeaking between the floorboards in the future, you can hold the boards together on wooden dowels and tighten them tightly car jack. If there is no need for hidden fastening, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws - two for each attachment point to the joists.

Surface reinforcement

A not very budget-friendly, but very effective way to get rid of a subfloor from squeaking is to lay plywood on it with frequent attractive fastening with self-tapping screws. The thickness of the flooring must be at least 12 mm, fastening is carried out in each board in two rows in a checkerboard pattern no further than 30–35 mm from the edge.

In addition to self-tapping screws, a mixture of sawdust or mineral chips with bustylate glue will help to achieve high-quality adhesion. It is important to arrange the sheets of flooring in such a way that the joints between them do not contribute to the deflection of the boards in the future. Ideally, you should divide the additional flooring into two layers of 6–8 mm each, fastening them together with an adhesive mixture and carefully consider the pattern of bandaging the joints.

The method is characterized by high technological complexity. In addition to high-quality tightening of screws and correct location sheets, you need to remember the layout of the boards so that each of them is reinforced and tightened. To do this, mark the location of the joints on the walls with marks along which they stretch the thread or beat off the lines with a dye cord.

Other options

There are also many “folk” ways to get rid of squeaks between floorboards or in places where they are attached. Contrary to popular belief, sealing cracks between boards with an adhesive mixture does not produce an effect, at least not long-term.

It’s better to properly heat the joint construction hairdryer and pour melted paraffin or stearin into it. The method of impregnating boards with Vaseline or vegetable oil. Just don’t use machine and motor oils, they are not environmentally friendly.

As a preventative measure to prevent squeaking, it is recommended to tightly join the floor boards using tongue-and-groove ends or oak dowels. You can also treat the ends of the boards with compounds that reduce friction - silicone sealant or rubber paste. Instead of regular nails, it is better to use rough nails, which are less susceptible to loosening. published

The annoying creaking of wooden floors does not have a calming effect at all and very rarely evokes childhood memories of summer vacation by Grandma. Therefore, to save your own nerves, find out what to do if wooden floors squeak.

Certainly, perfect option The solution to this problem is to take advantage of the opportunity and begin a long-planned renovation with a complete replacement of the floors.

If this solution does not suit you, then you will have to start restorative repairs of the floor. This is a troublesome matter, and besides, you may not be able to completely get rid of the squeak. However, it’s still worth a try, since no specialist will give you a guarantee of the result or lack thereof.

Causes of squeaking

Creaking wood floors occur in two situations, which depend on the material your floor is made from:

• if the floorboards (or any other floor covering, for example, chipboard) do not fit very tightly to the joists (or wooden beams);
• if the parquet does not adhere tightly to the surface of the base on which it is laid.

In both cases, there is only one way to get rid of the squeak - to remove the space that has appeared between the floor covering and its base. However, in these cases you will have to act differently.

Floor on joists

The only way to solve the question of what to do if wooden floors squeak when they are laid on joists (wooden beams) is to screw the floor covering to them more carefully.

For this you will need:

• long wood screws,
• screwdriver or drill with a screwdriver attachment.

The process of eliminating the squeak itself will look like this:

1. Find the most creaking places on the floor (so as not to “lose” them later, mark them with chalk).
2. Next, determine where the joists (beams) go in the floor. If the floor has been painted several times, the paint will have to be scraped off to find the nails that secure it to its base. In the case when the floor covering is made of boards, to find the joists under them, you can remove the outer boards (the joists always run perpendicular to the wall at a constantly maintained distance from each other). At the same time, you can look under the floor structure and see the condition of the joists. If from under the boards you “smell” of mustiness, dampness and mold, then instead of cosmetic restoration of the floors, you should still completely replace it.
3. Now you need to screw self-tapping screws into the logs (beams) so as to press the boards (or chipboard) to them as tightly as possible. The pitch of the screws in this case may vary depending on the intensity of the squeak, but still should not be more than 15 centimeters. Be careful not to hit the nails with the screw, as this will cause it to break and you may be injured.

Parquet

Creaking parquet can cause no less inconvenience. And since in this case the creaking occurs due to the deformation of its individual elements (and not the whole flooring), then, first of all, it will be necessary to find them, since the defect will have to be eliminated pointwise.

To get rid of the squeak you will need:

• drill with a drill with a diameter of 6-8 mm,
• ordinary cement (about 20 g for each creaking plank) - if you don’t have it, then a mixture for plastering work is suitable,
• a very large syringe without a needle.

Having prepared everything necessary for the repair, you can proceed to the main action:

1. Carefully drill a hole in the middle of the creaking parquet strip.
2. Prepare cement mortar, the consistency of which should resemble regular milk.
3. Fill in cement mixture into a syringe. Make sure you can squeeze it out without it getting stuck in the syringe. If the mixture is too thick, dilute it with water. If the mixture is too liquid, you will have to add a little cement.
4. Insert the syringe into the hole and pour the solution into it in small portions. Remember that after each “dose” of the solution, another portion of air should come out from under the parquet. Take your time - neither cement nor plaster mixture do not harden instantly.
5. The hole must be filled with the mixture until it stops accepting solution.
6. Wait for the solution to harden and make sure that the parquet no longer creaks.
7. Fill the hole in the parquet plank with a special putty (or mastic) for wood.

You should not immediately try to get rid of all deformed parquet planks from squeaking. First, it’s better to do a “test” repair and only after making sure that this decision The problem helped you, continue to get rid of other squeaky places. If the creaking does not go away, you will most likely have to re-lay the entire parquet, along the way renewing the surface of the subfloor and replacing damaged planks.

Video

Here you can see an example of work to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor:

Every resident of an old house has encountered the problem of a creaky wooden floor. The reason for this is many factors that can be easily eliminated on your own. It is enough to have information about why a wooden floor creaks, what causes this problem and how to eliminate unpleasant creaks.

Causes of squeaking

Plank wooden floors lie on joists, which become loose over time and when walked on, so they begin to creak. The problem becomes especially noticeable at night, when you need to quietly walk around the room, and as a result, everyone in the household wakes up.

In order to begin repairs and carry out the work correctly, it is necessary to analyze why the wooden floor in the apartment creaks. Most often, the answer is hidden in the design itself, since several options were used for laying wooden floors in old houses.

The first option involves wooden blocks or logs, which were laid on a concrete surface, and the distance between the wooden products was 40 cm. For covering the floor, plywood or chipboard was used, and additionally, fiberboard sheets.

The second option involved attaching wooden boards on top of the joists, which were attached to the concrete floor.

What these two options have in common is that wooden crafts lay in a horizontal position and were in the form of bars, no more than 4 cm thick. Their main function was to serve not only as a basis for cladding, they also created an indentation from the wall concrete slab so that the floor can “breathe”. Upper layer floors with internal wooden beams They were connected with the simplest nails, which become loose over time during use, and the fastening ceases to be tight, and the floor begins to creak.

Why does a new floor or parquet squeak?

Both old flooring and new flooring can make squeaky, unpleasant sounds. The main problem with a newly installed wooden floor is that the surface is not level and internal structures start to move. This is very easy to check, and all you need to do is place a perfectly flat surface on the floor. wooden part. If gaps appear, then the reason is precisely in them, and you need to work with them, which is where the creaking is heard. In this case, in order to get rid of the sound, the floor board and joists are drilled and glued into the hole. wooden beam and the place is sanded. This method is not suitable for the entire area of ​​​​a wooden floor, but for once twice it will be an excellent solution.

The main reasons that result in creaking in expensive parquet, are incorrectly performed work, poor quality wood material, which could also be raw. But this is not a problem, it can be eliminated.

Errors that can make the squeak worse

Many craftsmen believe that it is easy to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor; just nail it. This method will ensure silence for no more than a month or two. Then the sound appears again, but few people worry about it.

This is explained by the fact that in places on the floor where there is strong tension wooden logs, the nails swing and come out. Therefore, if there is little time for repairs, the best option would be to use long screws.

Another big mistake is made when chipboard sheets are laid on an old wooden floor.

Important ! This solution will also help only for a while, but when the squeak returns, it will become even stronger, and correcting such an omission will be much more difficult.

Possible options for dealing with squeaky floors

Let's start with the fact that the most radical and in an effective way Getting rid of annoying squeaking is a complete replacement of the floor covering. New wooden floors will perform their functions for a long period of time without requiring additional repairs, but they will cost a pretty penny. Replacing a wooden floor is a fundamental change in the apartment, spending extra money on purchasing materials, their delivery, and payment work force masters Even an inexpensive coverage option requires large additional costs of an undetermined amount.

Another known method solutions to squeaking involve replacing the wooden floor with a screed, on top of which you can place ceramic tiles, linoleum, laminate, parquet or wood products. A worthy solution, but when there are small children in the house, linoleum or tiles will give off cold if you don’t add an additional layer or install heating. An additional layer can be expanded clay, gypsum plasterboard or extruded foam; the material is expensive and installation will require a lot of effort and time.

Affordable and inexpensive option To combat squeaks, replace the sheathing with plywood, which is secured with self-tapping screws. But if the logs look terrible, then they will have to be replaced. The coating will still have to be completely removed and the wooden floors renewed, but even after that, over time, the coating will creak again.

There are several effective methods, which will help solve the problem and eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor. This is not an easy task, but any beginner can do it at home. The main task is to choose the right technology that is most suitable for a specific floor covering, taking into account the material that was used and what quality it is.

1. First of all, you need to think not only about the problem, but also about appearance wooden boards. Creaking can be removed using graphite powder, which contains talc, pouring it into the cracks. In addition, wooden wedges can be driven into the crevice formations. If after the work done there is no result, then the wooden products are screwed on with screws.
   
   
2. A common method is to use self-tapping screws. In areas of the wooden floor where creaking is heard, 2 mm holes are drilled and self-tapping screws are screwed in to the very end. Top part the screw is removed, and the place where it is installed is puttied. This solution will help eliminate minor creaking of the wooden floor. In case of strong sound, use plastic dowels with screws that go deep into concrete screed by 40 mm. Tongue and groove boards also tend to crack and dry out over time, so screws that have a countersunk head are used to attach them to a wooden floor. The thing is that in most cases it is those wooden products that creak that are weakly attached to the joists or ceiling beams. If this is indeed the problem, then this method will undoubtedly help.
   
   
3. The third method is more labor-intensive and requires more effort. If on major renovation there is not enough money, then pins come to the rescue. In the place where the wooden floor in the apartment creaks, holes with a diameter of 10-12 mm are drilled at the junction of the boards, leaving a distance of up to 30 cm. Using PVA glue High Quality the prepared pins are pressed. After this, you need to clean the wooden floor, and it will no longer creak.
   
   
4. To prevent parquet from creaking, wooden products are secured to the joists with rounded screws, at a distance of 5 cm. This will help facilitate the labor process electric drill, in which the rotation speed is regulated. But if in some places the wooden floor still creaks, then wooden boards you need to make a hole with a diameter of 6 mm and pump foam into it, but do not overdo it.
   
   
5. The simplest, most cost-effective and old-fashioned method for eliminating the creaking of a wooden floor is to insert a wedge between the creaking floorboards. To do this, cut a wedge out of a suitable board, coat it with glue and drive it into the gap, and then cut the wedge flush with the floor
   
   
6. There is another durable and reliable method, which will 100% get rid of annoying and unpleasant squeaking. These are metal anchors. The method is very reliable, but requires investment and a lot of effort. The principle of operation is to install an anchor through the hole, which will pass through the wooden floor and cross beams, rushing into the concrete. A special outer shell is prepared for it, which is made of metal, thus strengthening the lag. The upper part of the anchor will not be visible from the outside, since the size of the hole from above is drilled out with a larger diameter nozzle. Experts recommend installing anchors around the entire perimeter of the room. According to the rules, the distance between products should be within 1 m, but the smaller the better. The calculation will allow you to determine how many anchors will be needed.
   
   
7. If the squeak bothers you on a flat surface, then you can use plywood to eliminate it. Everything is simple here. The material should not be thinner than 12 mm; it is cut into small squares and secured on top of a dry wooden floor with screws or a special adhesive. You should leave a distance of 10 mm between the squares and lay them at an angle relative to the direction of the boards.
   
   
8. Replace old screws and nails. This is a fairly reliable method, but also labor-intensive due to the fact that the old wooden floor can be modernized without completely dismantling it. It is necessary to carefully check the entire floor, each section, and replace all old fasteners with new parts. It is, of course, better to eliminate nails altogether, because over time they will rust and the boards will dry out, thus causing the floor to shrink and, consequently, to creak. Most the best option, as mentioned above, these are screws or self-tapping screws. In some cases, this method allows you to completely and permanently get rid of the unpleasant sound. Before screeding, you need to check all the beams and boards. If there are rotten, deformed or dry ones, they should be replaced with new ones. After the work has been done, in places where creaking was heard, you can secure it with polyurethane foam.
   
   

A careful and competent approach to the work will make even the oldest wooden floor as quiet as if it were made of cork.

What to do if the floor in your apartment creaks, then you have found this article. This can and should be dealt with, but you will find out how in this article.

The harmony of silence when walking on the floor can be disturbed by many factors, such as: improper installation of the floor covering, poor-quality materials, drying out of the wood, splitting of the planks, uneven screed, which leads to curvature at the joints. Something needs to be done about this problem immediately, because the first signs of wear on the floor covering begin with a squeak. As the proverb says, “A good squeak will soon come out.”

First option the most affordable and simplest. You just need to replace the entire floor with a new one, maybe even best quality than the previous one. There's an analogy here with an old and a new car. An old car has to be constantly repaired, but a new one drives several tens of thousands of kilometers without serious breakdowns. When you replace it with a new floor, the creaking will definitely disappear, and if you replace the old floor with a new material made of balsa wood, then it will be much more pleasant to walk on it.

Option two simple, you need to cover the old creaky floor with a large and soft carpet. There are a large variety of these carpets on the market and you can choose a beautiful carpet that matches the decor of your room. The carpet has a soundproofing effect, while reducing the load on the floor. But such option will do not everyone because The skip may remain or become a little quieter.

Third option transfer. It involves relaying the boards, but only specialists can do such work. Perhaps you once had a flood in your apartment, and the boards picked up excess moisture, so they swelled and began to rub against each other. The drying option will not work, the boards have already come apart and the fastenings have weakened. The boards must be removed, dried, and then reinstalled with the correct fit. The process is certainly long, but effective.

Fourth option is the process of filling the cracks between the boards with a mixture of graphite powder and talc. Thus, you can reduce the volume of the squeak to a minimum, but this option will not give a complete ideal. The creaking will still appear over time, this is only a temporary result.

Fifth option- this is foaming with polyurethane foam in order to forget such a problem as the floor creaking. After drying, the foam creaks all rubbing boards. But if your floor creaks, then this is also a temporary repair option. Over time, when walking on the floor, an amplitude of vibration occurs and polyurethane foam it will disappear anyway.

Sixth method. Everyone knows such a magical construction tool as screws or self-tapping screws. With its help you can create miracles. The same with the floor, if it creaks, you can make a strong floor with a screw and a screwdriver. In places where the floor creaks a lot, you can screw in screws, you just need to know where the joints are.

Seventh option will not save you from the squeak that appears; it is intended more to prevent it. During the flooring process, fabric is laid along the entire length of the room. In the future, the fabric will dampen all vibrations and noise.