Self-installation of water heated floors in an apartment. Warm floors from hot water in an apartment Warm floors from hot water

Today we will look at the question of how to make a heated floor from hot water in an apartment, in particular in a bathroom.

To ensure that the floor in the bathroom is always pleasant for your feet, a heated floor is installed. A warm floor can be electric, or it can be liquid, powered by a heating system. Usually, for this purpose, a connection is made from the heating riser or from the heated towel rail, if it is powered by the heating system.

However, in summer time, or better yet, from May to October, heating in city multi-storey buildings is turned off. And the warm floor, powered by the heating system, also remains inactive until the heating is turned on in the entire house in the fall.

To avoid being left without a heated floor at the end of spring and beginning of autumn, the tubes are powered from the hot water supply system. Of course, hot water also happens to be turned off in the summer. But the period for turning off hot water is not long, and it is also not planned. So even in summer, the heated floor from hot water in the apartment will work properly and warm your feet.

How can a heated water floor in a bathroom be connected to a hot water supply system and how to do it correctly.

Firstly, you can contact a specialized company that constantly works with heating and water supply. The company's specialists will do everything without unnecessary hassle for you, from installing floor pipes and filling it with screed, to connecting the floor to hot water and adjusting its temperature.

Secondly, you can do this entire process yourself, but to do this you will need to thoroughly study all the information on this issue.

You need to know where to buy all the components, how to prepare a concrete floor in the bathroom for installing a tubular floor, and how to pour the screed. And then put a covering on top - usually ceramic tiles are used for this.

We purchase components

To purchase all the components for making a heated floor, you first need to find out what the length of the heated floor contour in your bathroom will be. To do this, measure the length and width of the free floor in your bathroom.

Why only free? Because you won't place water floor tubes where you don't walk. And this is the area on which there is a bath or shower, a cabinet under the washbasin, the area occupied by the bases of the cabinets.

In a standard bathroom you get a rectangle with sides 2 meters by 0.5 meters. In a combined bathroom you will actually have a square with sides of 1.5 meters. In custom bathrooms, you can measure the sides yourself for the available floor space.

Next, you can go to a plumbing store or a company that sells accessories for installing heated floors. Also, in any shopping center that specializes in repair products, you will find a department where you will buy everything you need - pipes, fittings, shut-off valves. Don't forget to purchase floor mounts for underfloor heating pipes.

If you are going to power your heated floor from the hot water supply, antifreeze will not flow through the tubes, there will be clean hot water there. This means you can get less expensive water floor tubes since antifreeze tubes cost a little more.

Preparing the base for a heated floor

In order to begin the entire procedure for installing a heated floor, you will first need to dismantle the finished floor covering in your bathroom. Those who have linoleum lying there receive a “bonus” in the form of its easy dismantling. Those who have tiles on the bathroom floor will be forced to dismantle them.

Next comes cleaning and leveling. concrete base. If you do not clean off any remaining tile adhesive and similar sagging and bumps, your new screed will not hold firmly to the concrete base and will eventually crack and collapse.

We install heated floors

Heated floor tubes are laid on a clean and level concrete base, which are mounted on the concrete using floor mounts. The fasteners are screwed to the concrete with dowels, and the tubes are snapped into the fasteners.

Be sure to leave excess length for the inlet and outlet pipes - this will help you at the stage of connecting the heated floor to hot water.

Connecting and adjusting the heated floor

Connecting the heated floor should be done in 2 stages. At the first stage, the connection is made. When the underfloor heating pipes have just been laid, fasteners, fittings and shut-off valves are installed.

This test connection should show you that the entire system is assembled correctly, there are no currents, everything is working. At this point, it will be possible to correct everything that was done incorrectly or needs improvement.

At this stage, you will be able to evaluate how much the heated floor heats up and how correctly it works.

Attention! Filling the screed should be done when there is hot water under pressure inside the underfloor heating pipes.

The final temperature adjustment of the heated floor is made after installation of the finishing coating in the bathroom.

Filling the screed

After the warm floor is installed, you can begin to pour a new screed, which will hide the water floor pipes and protect them from mechanical damage. It is best to use for this purpose ready-made composition for screeds. It has much better ductility than ordinary solution.

If you installed the heated floor level, you can now use its upper points to attach beacons, which will show you when pouring the screed that you are pouring it strictly parallel to the ground.

Of course, you can upload something like this small space without beacons, but if you make a mistake you will have problems with further laying the tiles. And also because water will accumulate in the corners and recesses of an uneven floor.

After the finishing coating is installed, your new heated floor in the bathroom is ready. All that remains is to finally adjust its temperature. This is done using a very ordinary ball valve, which regulates the flow of hot water into the floor pipes.

You can also use a mechanical thermostat, which will automatically maintain the set temperature.

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? It's real! Let's look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is specially wired. Where there is one main coolant throughout the entire apartment, distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on installing warm water floors in your apartment.

Warm water floor scheme

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when energy consumption will be more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, forces the underfloor heating system from central heating to consume a dosed volume of water.

When is it prohibited to install heated floors in an apartment?

It is prohibited to install heated floor heating if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along a common heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install heated water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is capable of taking away the temperature by so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere, anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dosing heat consumption are met.

Schemes for installing heated floors where its use is prohibited

Let's take a little look at the schemes that make it possible to install heated floors directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing heated floors, where it is prohibited to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l/min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not adjustable. Also, if there are small heat losses from the floor, you can end up with very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram for a heated water floor shows a balancing valve, which reduces the flow rate in the heated water floor, which means you can reduce the temperature of these floors. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the influence of heat consumption

“K2” - three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanged temperature at point “3”. In other words, if your hydronic floor heating consumes a large number of energy, then this creates a high probability of causing almost cold water to flow into the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators along the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing supply stores. It is called: “Mechanical 3-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat.” That is, we need the presented valve in automatic mode in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the warm water floor circuit of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented diagram, you need to adjust the tap so that at point “3” there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from central heating heats very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm floor. Here, to regulate the floor temperature, you can use balancing valves “K1” and “K2”. If it suddenly turns out that the radiator begins to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not penetrate your heated floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1" - bypass balancing valve. “K2” and “K3” are three-way valves connected differently. The “KZ” valve is used to stabilize the temperature of underfloor heating from central heating using the return temperature method from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called “climate control”. If your room gets hot, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the floor heating circuit, accordingly reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element - the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow liquid to flow at a very significant pace.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The “K1” valve is necessary to operate in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve may reduce or completely close the flow of the circuit in such a way that it can cause very serious favorable work for the pump used. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase energy consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will flow along the entire contour of the heated floors.

Installation diagrams for heated floors, where their use is permitted

Now let's consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and therefore the temperature in the room. You can also install an autovalve that serves to stabilize the operating pressure difference, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow rate. Such heating with water heated floors can provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it correct installation and subsequent operation.

The hot water consumption for water heating, the heated floor of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized water consumption that was used before installing the heated floor system.

If you increase this expense, the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the coolant flow, as this can spoil the normal flow of hot water in your neighbors’ radiators.

Warm floor from central heating, water heating of the house

Warm floor from central heating. Various schemes connecting the heated floor to the central heating system. Description of the main components.

Warm floor from hot water in the apartment

For a bathroom, liquid heated flooring is the best option. Conduct heated floor from hot water supply in the bathroom there are several ways: connect to the heating riser or to the heated towel rail if, of course, it operates from the heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that prompts us to abandon liquid heating is that a permit will be required for a water heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a labor-intensive process that requires duplication and large consumption of material (but then these costs are justified). However, if the work is carried out by a team of experienced craftsmen, then they resolve all these issues independently, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious individuals is dangerous in every sense.

TO negative side It should also be noted that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality products made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which eliminate this kind of problem. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Water heated floor advantages

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. Liquid principle heating is most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if heated floors are installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Warm floor from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings

Warm floors from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy components for heated floors in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov – colmart.com.ua

How to make a water-heated floor yourself without any problems

Warm floors are perfect option for heating the room, as they evenly distribute heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, or as an additional one.

There are two types of heated floors: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating electrical appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of heated floors can be done in any room, but it is necessary to take into account that any heated floor system dries out the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem can be easily solved with the help of an air humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is necessary for normal sleep. Warm floors are perfect for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Preparing the premises

In the room where installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, the old screed is being dismantled, under which there will most likely be filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done for the purpose that if the bathtub is flooded, water will not flow into other rooms in the apartment. If there is waterproofing in the bathroom, then you don’t have to remove it, but it’s better to put it in bags during the work.

Preparing risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect a heated floor to central heating, then it is not necessary to change the entire riser, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

It is necessary to find out from the plumbers who service your home what type of riser is spilling. If the spill is from the top, then tap 2 will be the entrance warm water, and tap 3 is the output. For lower spills, placement is done in reverse.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in the underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak may occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm insulation or similar ones due to its simplicity.

Connecting a heated floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or construction hairdryer. It should extend onto the walls above the level of the heated floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall for better soldering.

Pouring rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will not be higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

Using a level, markings are made around the perimeter of the room. After this, the highest point of the slabs is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made at 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, the rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by marks on the walls. The mixture is leveling out long rule. For large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

Experience shows that mixing mortar and expanded clay is quite difficult. Expanded clay dust, when mixed with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do the rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base slabs to the floor is large, then the piles can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the beacons, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After this, the welded mesh is laid down and the screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which serves as heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued together with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should extend 4 centimeters onto the walls.

Pipe bending is carried out by a spring into which the pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since bending the pipes is strictly prohibited. The pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Next, the fittings are attached to the risers using special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled using flax, as this is the most durable material.

Test run of the system

After the sealant has dried, test run the heated floor. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky valve. If the system is powered from a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, turn off the hot water tap and give it time to drain. After this, the first tap is closed and the third is opened.

Thus, the system is kept under pressure for several days to check that all connections are tight and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned in the reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Pouring finishing screed

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and the pouring is done. If a worm screed was made, then there is no need to lay a masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is smooth.

After the screed has dried, use a float to remove any unevenness on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed becomes light gray in color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities connect the system to the hot water supply riser. A ball valve is used to prevent mixing of process and drinking water.

How to make a water heated floor: connection diagram

How to make a water-heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, recommendations, technologies

Which heated floors are better, water or electric - 2 factors of choice.

So what do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of heated floors. They can be of two types:

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional view heating is most often used:

• V country cottage or dacha

• in an apartment in a multi-storey building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment, nuances and restrictions already appear.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two reasons:

Accordingly, your heated floors will remain idle for most of the year.

First of all, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide enough low temperature for heated floors. A direct connection will be accompanied by temperatures of 70 degrees or higher, and this will simply overheat the floor covering.

You will not be able to legally register your connection in any authority. And if such a fact is revealed during an inspection, you can easily run into a fine. Plus they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• heating systems are uncomfortable

• from DHW it is impossible

You can, of course, come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water heated floor will be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

The only option left is with electric heated floors.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice here. You can stop at electric heating, and on water. But what is better to choose?

Many people in this situation still make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which electric heated floors supposedly have.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. And all heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks there are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, this does not convince the majority that they are right.

In their opinion, this may also be suitable for the bathroom, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be attributed to electric heated floors.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can do such repairs yourself, at home.

If the heating cable of an electric mat is damaged, you will have to either rip off the entire tile and replace it entirely, or call specialists with equipment to burn through and find the short circuit with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline many people to choose water heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option remains only as an additional heat source.

But here are the factors that can scare away water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a manifold and much more, which electric heating can easily do without.

• constant audit work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many installers with water-based floors earn many times more, and not only during their installation, but also during further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their clients about the dangers of electricity and heated floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary subsequent maintenance

If there are no problems with this, then go to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this sounds like you, then an electric heated floor is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should you pay attention to when choosing infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them, with a very small gap, current carbon tracks are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at your contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire area.

The film acts as a separator between the base of the heated floor and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It will not fit under tiles. But it fits perfectly:

• under the carpet

• linoleum

If you lay a heating cable under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch) you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, it will emit harmful substances. And therefore you need to buy a special product labeled “for heated floors.”

This is wrong. The sun heats up laminate flooring much more when it shines directly through a window. And nothing harmful is released.

There are also concerns about dry air and dust, which warm floors inevitably raise. Here everything depends not on the heating operating mode, the presence or complete absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you block all the windows, then even with the central heating radiators you will be suffocated.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with film heated floors:

Where is the best place to use a heating cable? Where you have a minimal screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after completion of the work by the builders, there can be no talk of any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have left is 5-6cm.

If it’s even less, then the choice is clear – only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the layer of tile adhesive.

The disadvantage of an electric heated floor is that in addition to your room, you will also warm the ceiling from below. You will also heat your neighbors at your own expense.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Comparison table for the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current prices for heated floors with heating cables or mats and infrared film.

A pie with water floors should ideally look like in the following way:

• pipes with coolant are mounted on this surface

• then the cake comes with an adhesive layer and a tile or other covering

The approximate thickness of the entire slab is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go downstairs.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best decision– use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg/m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very durable and you can’t just crush them.

You can safely walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied with reverse side, i.e. It is not possible to damage or corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper that is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a heated floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options: either break the walls themselves, or break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be higher than the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20 m2), it must be separated with compensation tape.

Since all the expansion during heating of such a concrete layer, flanging alone cannot compensate.

4 The warm water floor coil must be made from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should end up in your screed.

6 If the customer and contractor are poorly versed in preparing solutions, then the recommended height of a full screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And lastly, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If your energy source is electricity, at night, at a cheaper tariff, you can “overclock” the heated floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This heating mode costs approximately 3 times less than usual.

7 Don’t skimp and add a special plasticizer for heated floors to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that can easily withstand temperature deformations.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to fill in only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But this should be avoided if possible.

9 There is no need to cut any holes in the substrate down to the concrete base, supposedly for high-quality adhesion.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The heated floor slab, figuratively speaking, should “float” without connection with the base and the walls.

10 You cannot fill the solution with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric heated floor - 10 mistakes and installation rules

Rules for installing water and electric heated floors. Heating cable and film - comparison of efficiency. Is electromagnetic radiation from heated floors safe? The screed thickness is 85mm, why?

Warm floors water installation diagrams in the apartment

The popularity of heating systems based on the modern principle of floor surface heating is constantly growing. In many countries, such technology has already become prevalent, and “warm floors”, having replaced the usual radiator circuits, are included in projects multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately as the building is being erected. This is explained by the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - uniform heating occurs from bottom to top with optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Warm water floors wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? By revising possible options Very often, electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and a water “heated floor” will clearly benefit in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that the apartment already has water heating pipes, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of online search queries on heating topics there is always something like “warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment.”

However, you need to immediately warn the apartment owner who wants to switch to water heated floors - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the context of multi-storey buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very diverse - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such an opportunity exists. But first, you should probably get acquainted with the difficulties that you will inevitably have to overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the measures that will need to be done, some apartment owners will decide to opt for an electric “heated floor” system that is easier to install and safe to operate.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utility companies?

If the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water-heated floor system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly encounter a number of administrative problems.

Heating a multi-storey building is a complex, branched system that was calculated in advance by specialists, and its capabilities are not unlimited. When designing it, we took into account the power of the boiler room or local heating station, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the diagram of apartment wiring and connection of radiators - and many other criteria. Independently making any changes to the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance and a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on the scale of the system. But, firstly, there are most likely many who regret installing this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can affect the temperature of the coolant in the radiators of neighbors. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those, in search of the reason, will definitely find it, and an unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the approval procedure with the management company or with thermal energy suppliers. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a bottom supply, this will become the top floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of apartments on the first floor will most likely be able to obtain permission. The extraction of thermal energy for floor heating will no longer affect the radiators of the neighbors on the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that others technical specifications There will be no nomination from utility companies. Thus, they will almost certainly receive a requirement for the mandatory installation of an individual heat meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual meter for metering consumed thermal energy

There may be a proposal from utility companies to organize their heating system on a semi-autonomous basis. In this option, coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the “warm floor” pipes - the circuit will be completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy obtained from the boiler room. It occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat can also be removed through a heat exchanger

Of course, you will have to install optional equipment to organize coolant circulation and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve owners from the need to purchase and install a meter for metering consumed thermal energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to heating system. This trend is gaining popularity - owners are refusing heating and hot water supply services and installing their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to complete autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. In this option, heat meters will not be required - only energy costs - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that this will be the end of the problems of apartment owners - they will face many difficulties of a technological nature. But all of them can be solved in one way or another.

The key issue is laying “warm floor” pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully completed, permission to connect has been received, or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a step-by-step solution to the problems of laying the “warm floor” circuits. Here we have to decide on the possible height of the floor level, on the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed permissible load for interfloor ceilings. Very important point is high-quality thermal insulation of the created structure, reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage you have to figure out the optimal laying pattern, the length of the contours, and the pitch of their laying.

Possible obstacles - rising floor level and weighting of the structure

The first thing you need to do is assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after installing a “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And an increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate diagram of a water-heated floor under a screed

• Nobody wants to pay money for anything, and therefore you will have to provide a thermal insulation barrier (item 1), which will prevent the heat from being wasted almost in vain on warming up reinforced concrete slabs interfloor covering.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a layer of thermal insulation of 25 ÷ 30 mm of polystyrene foam is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they even limit themselves to roll foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) about 5 mm thick. But if there is a cold basement or uninsulated basement below, then you will have to use a layer of thermal insulation of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (item 2). The concrete layer not only covers the circuit pipes (item 3), but also becomes an accumulating and evenly distributing heat element of the entire system.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is necessary to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And finally, one cannot discount the thickness of the finishing coating floor (item 4). It, of course, is not comparable to the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by using the method of laying heated floors without concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or made wooden structure floor on joists, as shown in the figure:

Water-heated floor on a wooden base without screed

Thermal insulation material (item 2) is laid between the joists installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (item 1). Boards are stuffed on top (item 3) with a step ensuring the laying of heat exchangers metal plates(pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” circuit (item 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, plasterboard, etc. (item 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finishing coating.

Similar method laying is somewhat inferior to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can gain precious millimeters of height and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. This means that you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make right choice.

Now let’s go through the main components for laying the “warm floor” circuit - insulating mats and the pipes themselves.

Selection of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly effective insulation, and there is a well-heated room below) roll materials, for example, penofol, can be used.

Roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

Laying the circuit in this case can be carried out by tying pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If more is required high-quality insulation, then use polystyrene foam mats (preferably extruded).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marked marking lines

Such insulation can be in the form of separate slabs, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an “accordion” or “ tractor caterpillar" Very often, such products have a mesh applied on them, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and using a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be done with a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used that reliably hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile mats made of polystyrene foam for a water-heated floor. The protrusions - bosses - placed on their surface allow you to quickly and reliably fix the loops of the circuit without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

Optimal choice– these are profile mats with a polymer coating, having locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laid, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, creation of a waterproofing barrier and simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates are also well placed in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if you decide to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already inserted into them.

Selection of pipes for “warm floors”

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the circuits are installed for a long time, hidden with a screed and an external covering, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of the pipes and their connections. Any leak, even a minor one, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with the obligatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using seam technology are not acceptable.
• Pipe connections cannot be placed deep in the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid coil. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the internal walls. Ideally, the pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide such a function.
• Reserve of thermal and mechanical strength. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and to ensure that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, steel ones are immediately excluded VGP pipes– they are suture, and they cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, there is a great temptation to use polypropylene pipes, since they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, assembling the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, in these places narrowing of the nominal passage, accumulation of solid sediments are possible, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a heated floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“cross-linking,” which gives the material completely new qualities. Pipes made from such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, can easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

Pipe coil made of cross-linked polyethylene RE-Ha

The best performance indicators are for materials marked PE-Xa - their degree of cross-linking is the highest, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes made from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

It’s as if they were specially created for “warm floors” - they are lightweight, have good heat transfer, and allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to the technology). However, you should be careful when choosing them - there are a lot of low-quality products on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and loss of its qualities. Therefore, if you choose metal-plastic pipes, then you should pay attention to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe

The best option I see a pipe with PE-X polyethylene on the outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

• Copper pipes

In terms of heat transfer and service life, such pipes probably have no rivals.

Layed contour from copper pipe

The plasticity of the metal allows you to create contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, or critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is the very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying contours, and their resistance to corrosion, enhanced by an internal polymer coating, guarantees long service life.

Modern corrugated stainless steel pipes perform well

In addition, this is the only exception to the rules that allows making butt connections under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And despite the fact that maximum length in a bay - 50 m, they can be safely used for laying longer contours.

The only drawback to using such material is the very high price.

Deciding on the layout of the circuit

In order for a water “warm floor” in an apartment to be truly effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - “snake” or “snail”. But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic diagrams are shown in the figure:

Basic contour laying schemes

a – “snail”. It is considered the most appropriate from the point of view of uniform heat distribution. It features a more complex installation process.

b – “snake”. It is easier to install, but has a distinct drawback - the heat is distributed zonally.

c – variation of the “snake” with a double entry. The heat distribution over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced stripes.

• To prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the circuit is the pitch of its installation, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value ranges from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow it) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, since the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The installation step largely depends on how you plan to use the “warm floor” - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finishing coating - up to 27 ° C), whereas in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, decorated with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 °C.

• It is not for nothing that heating radiators are installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This also needs to be taken into account when drawing up a “warm floor” scheme - provide for a denser installation in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the “drawings” of the contour.

It is best to immediately depict the laying diagram to scale on a drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The length of the outline can be calculated using the formula:

L- the length of the contour in a certain area.

k- coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​the room, then the calculation is carried out at once for the entire contour. If there are designated areas with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each and then add it up.

To make the task easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of pipes for a “warm floor” circuit

The direct supply and return sections, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connection to the collector, must be added to the obtained value.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be limitless. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the coolant pressure, and the circuit will simply “close.” So, if you use a pipe DN16, then you should limit yourself to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with DN20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, you will have to divide it into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve approximately equal lengths of both - the difference is acceptable - no more than 20%.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating must be made between the different contours and a damper tape must be installed in it. The same tape, to compensate for temperature expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of a “warm floor” in an apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all the problems - they say, all that remains is to connect them to the supply and return, and everything will work immediately. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to force it to circulate through a long pipe circuit, the installation of special equipment will be required - a pumping unit.
• Devices for releasing accumulated air are required to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized to ensure coolant circulation with maximum efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and eliminating the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature levels in heating radiators and in underfloor heating circuits are completely different. If in a central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the condition of the insulation screed and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the coolant in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the range of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is necessary to install a special unit that will mix the coolant from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, so installing appropriate filters will not hurt, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the operating parameters of the system - pressure in the circuit and temperature level, you will need appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without compliance with this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if you plan to connect to central risers, then the created “warm floors” should in no way interfere with the normal operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the standard connection schemes to the central system will be proposed. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical diagrams for connecting a “warm floor” to the wiring of a heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last along the heating supply riser in the entrance.

An inlet valve (item 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system (item 1), not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here to prevent unclean coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

A check valve (item 2) is installed at the outlet of the system and shut-off valve.

The temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits is in this case installed with a three-way valve (item 3). This could be a device with manual installation the required level of mixing, or a more modern one - with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the entrance to the supply manifold (shown with a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo drive

To ensure circulation, a pump is installed (item 4), which must, in terms of its performance and generated pressure, correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (item 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which, if necessary, equalizes the pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (item 6) and drain valves (item 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon receipt of the appropriate permission to tie into the central one), then they can be used here other wiring diagrams:

General adjustment, in addition, is done using balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (item 5) provides the pressure drop required for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect; it is quite difficult to accurately balance.

The circuit is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is poor.

Both the coolant temperature in the “warm floor” circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

A two-way valve and two control valves are installed.

But there is one important difference from all previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (item 13) and its own “safety group” (item 12) in which the most important role is assigned safety valve.

Expansion tank and “safety group” are required if heat is transferred through a heat exchanger

If you plan to connect several underfloor heating circuits, then it is also necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small or, in general, be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means additional adjustment is required.

To do this, taps are installed at each of the outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuit when there is no need to use them or for carrying out preventive or repair work without disrupting the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold assembly with thermostats on each connected circuit

It’s even better if each of the circuits connected to the manifold has its own thermostat. This will make it easier to accurately set the temperature in different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the types of collector-regulating units.

Schematic - operation of the collector unit

Is it worth assembling such a unit yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work, assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made manifold cabinet - in its design, both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important.

In the salon you can select a ready-made manifold assembly for any “warm floor” layout

In the assortment of specialized stores you can find the required model, designed for both small area heating with two to three “warm floor” circuits, and capable of taking over the distribution and regulation of multiple circuits laid over large areas of a large apartment or house.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned in such a way as to minimize long supply sections. That is, the most preferable option would be the center of the apartment complex.

So, the publication discussed the basic schemes for installing heated floors in an apartment. When choosing a specific type and calculating the system parameters, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter have a very serious impact on the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one

If heated floors are used for heating, water installation diagrams in the apartment differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

Heating private houses and apartments using water heated floors is a fairly popular option, since the system is efficient and economical. Warm air rises evenly from bottom to top, creating optimal comfort in the room. Warm floors can be implemented in different ways; it can be a warm floor from central heating in an apartment or an electric one, which requires laying a heating cable. Considering the cost of electricity, many residents find the idea of ​​installing radiator-powered floor heating in their apartment more attractive. Costs will mainly be on equipment, and heating costs will not be so high.

There is a widespread belief that connecting underfloor heating to hot water in an apartment is strictly prohibited. This is not entirely true. Permission can be obtained from the management company if the apartment is located at the end of the heating circuit - on the first or last floor, depending on the heat supply scheme. Thus, received in the apartment thermal energy will not harm other residents in the apartment building. As a rule, you need to install a thermal energy meter, and you can safely connect the heated floor from the battery.

Heat energy is supplied through a heat exchanger for the heated floor in the apartment, which makes it possible to make the heated floor circuit “autonomous”, not affecting other heat consumers.

How will the height of the room change due to the installation of heated floors?

When planning to install underfloor heating in an apartment, you need to think about not only the costs of materials and obtaining permission. An important nuance is to take into account how the floor height will rise. To be installed good thermal insulation on the subfloor so that heat does not escape into the floor slabs. For apartments on the second and higher floors, it is enough to lay 3 cm of insulation (polystyrene, etc.).

If in the bathroom the heated towel rail is connected on the ground floor, below which there is a basement or ground, the insulation layer should be within 5-10cm. Next, the size of the pipes and the layer of finishing coating are taken into account. The result is the final figure by which the height of the room will be reduced. If living space allows, you can buy equipment.

Pipes for heated floors

Considering that water floor heating is filled with screed, it is clear that you need to choose durable pipes. The choice of a specific material will directly affect what the price of 1 sq. m of warm water floors will be.

But the price is not the main thing, it is important to comply with the conditions:

What do you need to connect a heated floor?

You can’t just cut the contours of a heated floor into the heating risers. The water will not circulate on its own, so you will need a pump. A system is also needed to remove air that accumulates in the system. Coolant in central heating is not clean, so to protect your own floor heating system you need to install filters that capture dirt particles.

It is important to take into account that the coolant in centralized heating can be heated up to 80 degrees, and you cannot run such water into your system - this will ruin both the screed and the finishing coating, and the room will be excessively hot.

The optimal coolant temperature in a heated floor system is up to 45 degrees.

Therefore, it is necessary to install a unit that mixes water from the supply and return, as well as devices that control the parameters. Therefore, the price of a heated floor will include the price, a thermal head, a servo drive, etc.

Heated floor connection diagram

To properly connect the selected system, you need to prepare the equipment: circulation pump, servo drive for the heated water floor collector, temperature control sensor, distribution unit, collector. Connection and test run of the system are carried out before pouring the screed.

The main thing in the system is the distribution unit; it regulates the temperature of the coolant.

Thanks to a three-way valve and sensor (thermal head for underfloor heating), the apartment owner regulates the temperature, achieving optimal comfort and saving on bills. The essence of the operation of the valve with the sensor is to timely shut off the hot flow when the set temperature is exceeded.

needed for uniform distribution of coolant in the system. The pump is installed after the distribution unit, but after the manifold group. From the three-way valve, cooled water flows into the pump, then into the manifold and along the contours of the heated floor. An air vent and a drain valve are installed in the upper and lower parts of the collector, respectively.

The diagram demonstrates how to connect a warm floor to heating in apartments that close the heating circuit. If the insertion is carried out in apartments in the middle, then the three-way valve is replaced with a two-way valve.

Alternative underfloor heating Xl Pipe

Those who do not have the opportunity to legally connect floor heating from a battery should familiarize themselves with modern system Xl Pipe. Reading reviews of xl Pipe underfloor heating, they note that this is a kind of hybrid of electric and water heating that does not have their disadvantages. The heating element here is a polyethylene tube with a diameter of 2 cm, filled with antifreeze. Inside the tube is a chrome-nickel heating cable in a Teflon sheath.

The design is sealed and safe. The system does not use a pump, manifold, or boiler. The coolant does not move here. Installation of liquid electric heated floor Xl Pipe is carried out in a screed. Furniture and equipment can be moved without restrictions, the system will not be damaged. As reviews of underfloor heating as the main heating say, this option copes with the task quite well; the temperature can be adjusted at your discretion.

The essence of Xl Pipe's work is simple and clear. When turned on, the cable begins to heat the coolant, quickly reaching the set temperature. The fluid pressure in the system ensures uniform heat distribution. According to the manufacturer, such a warm floor consumes one third less electricity compared to other electric heating systems. When compared with water heated floors, the costs of purchasing a boiler, manifold and other equipment are eliminated.

Floor heating with infrared film Heat Life

Those who have no idea how to properly make a heated floor from heating, or do not have the opportunity to carry out major renovations in the room to do this, should take a closer look at the Heat Life IR heating film. It can be used as a main or additional heating system in offices, residential buildings, industrial and other facilities. Those who choose Heat Life heated floors note minimal installation and maintenance costs and low heating bills.

As a rule, installing the film does not require filling the screed. It can be used to heat tiles, linoleum, laminate, porcelain stoneware, and other flooring options. Energy is used to heat the floor, not the air. In addition, infrared film can heat any surface - vertical, inclined, embossed. Even if a section of the film is mechanically damaged, general system will continue to work. Corrosion is not a problem for Heat Life film.

Advantages and disadvantages of heated floors

Among the advantages of using water and electric underfloor heating systems, savings on heating bills are noted. If your feet are warm, even minimum temperature can be perceived as comfortable. Installation is not difficult, appearance does not attract attention like standard ones. There will be no drafts in a house with heated floors. Children will not get cold playing on the floor.

As for the shortcomings, there are them too. Firstly, these are the costs of equipment and installation. Secondly, water heated floors require a loss of several centimeters from the height of the room. Thirdly, the floors must be free of carpets - otherwise, why heat them. When a breakdown occurs, it is difficult to determine which area is damaged. Furniture should not cover the floor so as not to interfere with heat circulation.

Having familiarized yourself with all the listed nuances, you can make an informed conclusion about heated floors and the advisability of using them in an apartment as the main or additional source of heat. Generally, electrical systems Floor heating is installed in small rooms - in the bathroom, kitchen, toilet. If you plan to heat a spacious room, it is better to give preference to a water-based system. In any case, it is important to consult with professionals; they will subsequently be entrusted with the installation of the system, startup and maintenance. This way you can get guarantees for the safety and durability of the system.

Water heated floor from hot water

Let's look at how this is done in an apartment for a bathroom.

As you know, the apartment has common water supply risers. And in apartments it is usually possible to install a warm water floor from a hot riser. See diagram:

This connection is not prohibited by law or any regulations! Feel free to do it!

Flaws:

Conditions and required parameters:

1. Use a larger diameter pipe. For example, metal-plastic 20mm. It is better not to use a 16mm pipe, as a situation may arise when there is little pressure in the hot water tap and the water will flow slowly.

2. The length of the pipe should be as short as possible. Do not exceed 20 meters. I recommend a laying step of 150mm.

3. It is advisable to make the concrete screed more economical in order to improve the rate of heating of the floor. No more than 5cm. Lay thick thermal insulation down. Preferably polystyrene foam board thickness of at least 15mm. With a density of 35 kg/m3.

The diagram shows Ball Valves: K1, K2, K3.

K2 and K3 - They are repair taps; in cases where leaks have formed in the floor, they can be turned off. Or turn off the heated floor completely so that it doesn’t heat up.

K1 - Can be used for rough adjustment of floor temperature. If this tap is opened a little, the flow rate in the warm field will be slightly less and the floor temperature will decrease. If it is closed, the floor efficiency will be maximum.

It is better to put a balancing valve in place of K2, but they can be 10 times more expensive. Therefore, it is better to adjust tap K1 a little bit and you can achieve the required setting.

That's all, if you don't understand, write questions, I will definitely answer!

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Warm floor from hot water in the apartment - Autonomous house

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? It's real! Let's look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is specially wired. Where there is one main coolant throughout the entire apartment, distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on installing warm water floors in your apartment.

Warm water floor scheme

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when energy consumption will be more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, forces the underfloor heating system from central heating to consume a dosed volume of water.

When is it prohibited to install heated floors in an apartment?

It is prohibited to install heated floor heating if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along a common heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install heated water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is capable of taking away the temperature by so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere, anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dosing heat consumption are met.

Schemes for installing heated floors where its use is prohibited

Let's take a little look at the schemes that make it possible to install heated floors directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing heated floors, where it is prohibited to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l/min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not adjustable. Also, if there are small heat losses from the floor, you can end up with very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram for a heated water floor shows a balancing valve, which reduces the flow rate in the heated water floor, which means you can reduce the temperature of these floors. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the influence of heat consumption

“K2” - three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanged temperature at point “3”. In other words, if your hydronic floor heating consumes a large amount of energy, then it creates a greater likelihood of causing almost cold water to flow into the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators along the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing supply stores. It is called: “Mechanical 3-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat.” That is, we need the presented valve in automatic mode in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the warm water floor circuit of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented diagram, you need to adjust the tap so that at point “3” there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from central heating heats very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm floor. Here, to regulate the floor temperature, you can use balancing valves “K1” and “K2”. If it suddenly turns out that the radiator begins to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not penetrate your heated floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1" - bypass balancing valve. “K2” and “K3” are three-way valves connected differently. The “KZ” valve is used to stabilize the temperature of underfloor heating from central heating using the return temperature method from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called “climate control”. If your room gets hot, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the floor heating circuit, accordingly reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element - the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow liquid to flow at a very significant pace.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The “K1” valve is necessary to operate in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely close the flow of the circuit so that this can cause very favorable operation for the pump being used. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase energy consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will flow along the entire contour of the heated floors.

Installation diagrams for heated floors, where their use is permitted

Now let's consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and therefore the temperature in the room. You can also install an autovalve that serves to stabilize the operating pressure difference, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow rate. Such heating with water heated floors can provide heat to the entire apartment, provided that it is properly installed and subsequently used.

The hot water consumption for water heating, the heated floor of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized water consumption that was used before installing the heated floor system.

If you increase this expense, the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the coolant flow, as this can spoil the normal flow of hot water in your neighbors’ radiators.

Warm floor from central heating, water heating of the house Warm floor from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a heated floor to a central heating system. Description of the main components.

Source: centro-pol.ru

For a bathroom, liquid heated flooring is the best option. There are several ways to install a heated floor from the hot water supply in the bathroom: connect to a heating riser or to a heated towel rail if, of course, it operates from the heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that prompts us to abandon liquid heating is that a permit will be required for a water heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a labor-intensive process that requires duplication and large consumption of material (but then these costs are justified). However, if the work is carried out by a team of experienced craftsmen, then they resolve all these issues independently, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious individuals is dangerous in every sense.

On the negative side, there is also a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality products made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which eliminate this kind of problem. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Water heated floor advantages

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. The liquid heating principle is the most advantageous in comparison with other types, even if a heated floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Warm floors from hot water in an apartment - comfort, warmth, savings Warm floors from hot water in an apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy components for heated floors in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua

Source: colmart.com.ua

Heated floors are an ideal option for heating a room, as they distribute heat evenly throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, or as an additional one.

There are two types of heated floors: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating electrical appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of heated floors can be done in any room, but it is necessary to take into account that any heated floor system dries out the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem can be easily solved with the help of an air humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is necessary for normal sleep. Warm floors are perfect for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Preparing the premises

In the room where installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, the old screed is being dismantled, under which there will most likely be filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done for the purpose that if the bathtub is flooded, water will not flow into other rooms in the apartment. If there is waterproofing in the bathroom, then you don’t have to remove it, but it’s better to put it in bags during the work.

Preparing risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect a heated floor to central heating, then it is not necessary to change the entire riser, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

It is necessary to find out from the plumbers who service your home what type of riser is spilling. If the spill is from the top, then tap 2 will be the warm water inlet, and tap 3 will be the outlet. For lower spills, placement is done in reverse.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in the underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak may occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm insulation or similar ones due to its simplicity.

Connecting a heated floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a hair dryer. It should extend onto the walls above the level of the heated floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall for better soldering.

Pouring rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will not be higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

Using a level, markings are made around the perimeter of the room. After this, the highest point of the slabs is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made at 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, the rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled using a long rule. For large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

Experience shows that mixing mortar and expanded clay is quite difficult. Expanded clay dust, when mixed with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do the rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base slabs to the floor is large, then the piles can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the beacons, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After this, the welded mesh is laid down and the screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued together with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should extend 4 centimeters onto the walls.

Pipe bending is carried out by a spring into which the pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since bending the pipes is strictly prohibited. The pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Next, the fittings are attached to the risers using special collapsible connections. All threaded connections are assembled using flax, as this is the most durable material.

Test run of the system

After the sealant has dried, test run the heated floor. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky valve. If the system is powered from a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, turn off the hot water tap and give it time to drain. After this, the first tap is closed and the third is opened.

Thus, the system is kept under pressure for several days to check that all connections are tight and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned in the reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Pouring finishing screed

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and the pouring is done. If a worm screed was made, then there is no need to lay a masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is smooth.

After the screed has dried, use a float to remove any unevenness on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed becomes light gray in color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water supply riser. A ball valve is used to prevent mixing of process and drinking water.

How to make a water heated floor: connection diagram How to properly make a water heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, recommendations, technologies

Source: poleexpert.ru

So what do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of heated floors. They can be of two types:

• electric

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:

• in a country cottage or dacha

• in an apartment in a multi-storey building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment, nuances and restrictions already appear.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two reasons:

Accordingly, your heated floors will remain idle for most of the year.

First of all, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, it is possible to connect, but it is necessary to ensure a sufficiently low temperature for heated floors. A direct connection will be accompanied by temperatures of 70 degrees or higher, and this will simply overheat the floor covering.

You will not be able to legally register your connection in any authority. And if such a fact is revealed during an inspection, you can easily run into a fine. Plus they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• heating systems are uncomfortable

You can, of course, come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water heated floor will be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

The only option left is with electric heated floors.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. You can choose either electric or water heating. But what is better to choose?

Many people in this situation still make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which electric heated floors supposedly have.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. And all heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks there are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, this does not convince the majority that they are right.

In their opinion, this may also be suitable for the bathroom, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be attributed to electric heated floors.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can do such repairs yourself, at home.

If the heating cable of an electric mat is damaged, you will have to either rip off the entire tile and replace it entirely, or call specialists with equipment to burn through and find the short circuit with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline many people to choose water heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option remains only as an additional heat source.

But here are the factors that can scare away water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a manifold and much more, which electric heating can easily do without.

• constant audit work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many installers with water-based floors earn many times more, and not only during their installation, but also during further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their clients about the dangers of electricity and heated floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary subsequent maintenance

If there are no problems with this, then go to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this sounds like you, then an electric heated floor is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should you pay attention to when choosing infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them, with a very small gap, current carbon tracks are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at your contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire area.

The film acts as a separator between the base of the heated floor and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It will not fit under tiles. But it fits perfectly:

If you lay a heating cable under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch) you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And therefore you need to buy a special product labeled “for heated floors.”

This is wrong. The sun heats up laminate flooring much more when it shines directly through a window. And nothing harmful is released.

There are also concerns about dry air and dust, which warm floors inevitably raise. Here everything depends not on the heating operating mode, the presence or complete absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you block all the windows, then even with the central heating radiators you will be suffocated.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with film heated floors:

Where is the best place to use a heating cable? Where you have a minimal screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after completion of the work by the builders, there can be no talk of any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have left is 5-6cm.

If it’s even less, then the choice is clear – only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the layer of tile adhesive.

The disadvantage of an electric heated floor is that in addition to your room, you will also warm the ceiling from below. You will also heat your neighbors at your own expense.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Comparison table for the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current prices for heated floors with heating cables or mats and infrared film.

A pie with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with coolant are mounted on this surface

• then the cake comes with an adhesive layer and a tile or other covering

The approximate thickness of the entire slab is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go downstairs.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg/m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very durable and you can’t just crush them.

You can safely walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i.e. It is not possible to damage or corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper that is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a heated floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options: either break the walls themselves, or break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be higher than the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20 m2), it must be separated with compensation tape.

Since all the expansion during heating of such a concrete layer, flanging alone cannot compensate.

4 The warm water floor coil must be made from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should end up in your screed.

6 If the customer and contractor are poorly versed in preparing solutions, then the recommended height of a full screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And lastly, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If your energy source is electricity, at night, at a cheaper tariff, you can “overclock” the heated floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This heating mode costs approximately 3 times less than usual.

7 Don’t skimp and add a special plasticizer for heated floors to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that can easily withstand temperature deformations.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to fill in only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But this should be avoided if possible.

9 There is no need to cut any holes in the substrate down to the concrete base, supposedly for high-quality adhesion.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The heated floor slab, figuratively speaking, should “float” without connection with the base and the walls.

10 You cannot fill the solution with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric heated floors - 10 mistakes and installation rules Rules for installing water and electric heated floors. Heating cable and film - comparison of efficiency. Is electromagnetic radiation from heated floors safe? The screed thickness is 85mm, why?

Source: domikelectrica.ru

The popularity of heating systems based on the modern principle of floor surface heating is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and “warm floors”, displacing the usual radiator circuits, are included in the designs of multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately as the building is being erected. This is explained by the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - uniform heating occurs from bottom to top with optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Warm floors water installation diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and water “heated floor” will clearly benefit in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that the apartment already has water heating pipes, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of online search queries on heating topics there is always something like “warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment.”

However, you need to immediately warn the apartment owner who wants to switch to water heated floors - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the context of multi-storey buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very diverse - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such an opportunity exists. But first, you should probably get acquainted with the difficulties that you will inevitably have to overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the measures that will need to be done, some apartment owners will decide to opt for an electric “heated floor” system that is easier to install and safe to operate.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utility companies?

If the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water-heated floor system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly encounter a number of administrative problems.

Heating a multi-storey building is a complex, branched system that was calculated in advance by specialists, and its capabilities are not unlimited. When designing it, we took into account the power of the boiler room or local heating station, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the diagram of apartment wiring and connection of radiators - and many other criteria. Independently making any changes to the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance and a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on the scale of the system. But, firstly, there are most likely many who regret installing this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can affect the temperature of the coolant in the radiators of neighbors. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those, in search of the reason, will definitely find it, and an unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the approval procedure with the management company or with thermal energy suppliers. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a bottom supply, this will become the top floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of apartments on the first floor will most likely be able to obtain permission. The extraction of thermal energy for floor heating will no longer affect the radiators of the neighbors on the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by utility companies. Thus, they will almost certainly receive a requirement for the mandatory installation of an individual heat meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual meter for metering consumed thermal energy

There may be a proposal from utility companies to organize their heating system on a semi-autonomous basis. In this option, coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the “warm floor” pipes - the circuit will be completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy obtained from the boiler room. It occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat can also be removed through a heat exchanger

Of course, in this case it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize coolant circulation and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve owners from the need to purchase and install a meter for metering consumed thermal energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely switch your apartment to autonomous heating. This trend is gaining popularity - owners are refusing heating and hot water supply services and installing their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to complete autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. In this option, heat meters will not be required - only energy costs - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that this will be the end of the problems of apartment owners - they will face many difficulties of a technological nature. But all of them can be solved in one way or another.

The key issue is laying “warm floor” pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully completed, permission to connect has been received, or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a step-by-step solution to the problems of laying the “warm floor” circuits. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor floors. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of the pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage you have to figure out the optimal laying pattern, the length of the contours, and the pitch of their laying.

Possible obstacles - rising floor level and weighting of the structure

The first thing you need to do is assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after installing a “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And an increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate diagram of a water-heated floor under a screed

• Nobody wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it is necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (item 1), which will prevent heat from being wasted almost in vain on heating the reinforced concrete interfloor slabs.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a layer of thermal insulation of 25 ÷ 30 mm of polystyrene foam is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they even limit themselves to roll foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) about 5 mm thick. But if there is a cold basement or uninsulated basement below, then you will have to use a layer of thermal insulation of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (item 2). The concrete layer not only covers the circuit pipes (item 3), but also becomes an accumulating and evenly distributing heat element of the entire system.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is necessary to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And finally, one cannot discount the thickness of the final floor covering itself (item 4). It, of course, is not comparable to the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by using the method of laying a “warm floor” without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or a wooden floor structure can be made on joists, as shown in the figure:

Water-heated floor on a wooden base without screed

Thermal insulation material (item 2) is laid between the joists installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (item 1). Boards are stuffed on top (item 3) with a step ensuring the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (item 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” circuit (item 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, plasterboard, etc. (item 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finishing coating.

This method of installation is somewhat inferior to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can gain precious millimeters of height and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. This means that you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let’s go through the main components for laying the “warm floor” circuit - insulating mats and the pipes themselves.

Selection of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly effective insulation, and there is a well-heated room below) roll materials, for example, penofol, can be used.

Roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

Laying the circuit in this case can be carried out by tying pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If higher quality insulation is required, then mats made of expanded polystyrene are used (preferably extruded).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marked marking lines

Such insulation can be in the form of separate slabs, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an “accordion” or “tractor caterpillar”. Very often, such products have a mesh applied on them, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and using a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be done with a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used that reliably hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile mats made of polystyrene foam for a water-heated floor. The protrusions - bosses - placed on their surface allow you to quickly and reliably fix the loops of the circuit without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laid, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, creation of a waterproofing barrier and simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates are also well placed in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if you decide to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already inserted into them.

Selection of pipes for “warm floors”

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the circuits are installed for a long time, hidden with a screed and an external covering, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of the pipes and their connections. Any leak, even a minor one, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with the obligatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using seam technology are not acceptable.
• Pipe connections cannot be placed deep in the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid coil. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the internal walls. Ideally, the pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide such a function.
• Reserve of thermal and mechanical strength. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and to ensure that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seamed and cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, there is a great temptation to use polypropylene pipes, since they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, assembling the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, in these places narrowing of the nominal passage, accumulation of solid sediments are possible, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a heated floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“cross-linking,” which gives the material completely new qualities. Pipes made from such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, can easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

Pipe coil made of cross-linked polyethylene RE-Ha

The best performance indicators are for materials marked PE-Xa - their degree of cross-linking is the highest, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes made from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

It’s as if they were specially created for “warm floors” - they are lightweight, have good heat transfer, and allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to the technology). However, you should be careful when choosing them - there are a lot of low-quality products on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are selected, then you should pay attention to the material of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe

The best option seems to be a pipe with PE-X polyethylene on the outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

In terms of heat transfer and service life, such pipes probably have no rivals.

Layed copper pipe circuit

The plasticity of the metal allows you to create contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, or critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is the very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying contours, and their resistance to corrosion, enhanced by an internal polymer coating, guarantees long service life.

Modern corrugated stainless steel pipes perform well

In addition, this is the only exception to the rules that allows making butt connections under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in a bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying longer contours.

The only drawback to using such material is the very high price.

Deciding on the layout of the circuit

In order for a water “warm floor” in an apartment to be truly effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - “snake” or “snail”. But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic diagrams are shown in the figure:

Basic contour laying schemes

a – “snail”. It is considered the most appropriate from the point of view of uniform heat distribution. It features a more complex installation process.

b – “snake”. It is easier to install, but has a distinct drawback - the heat is distributed zonally.

c – variation of the “snake” with a double entry. The heat distribution over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced stripes.

• To prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the circuit is the pitch of its installation, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value ranges from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow it) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, since the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The installation step largely depends on how you plan to use the “warm floor” - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finishing coating - up to 27 ° C), whereas in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, decorated with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 °C.

• It is not for nothing that heating radiators are installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This also needs to be taken into account when drawing up a “warm floor” scheme - provide for a denser installation in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the “drawings” of the contour.

It is best to immediately depict the laying diagram to scale on a drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The length of the outline can be calculated using the formula:

L is the length of the contour in a certain area.

k is a coefficient that takes into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​the room, then the calculation is carried out at once for the entire contour. If there are designated areas with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each and then add it up.

To make the task easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of pipes for a “warm floor” circuit

The direct supply and return sections, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connection to the collector, must be added to the obtained value.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be limitless. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the coolant pressure, and the circuit will simply “close.” So, if you use a pipe DN16, then you should limit yourself to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with DN20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of the calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, you will have to divide it into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve approximately equal lengths of both - the difference is acceptable - no more than 20%.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating must be made between the different contours and a damper tape must be installed in it. The same tape, to compensate for temperature expansion, should be laid along the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of a “warm floor” in an apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all the problems - they say, all that remains is to connect them to the supply and return, and everything will work immediately. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to force it to circulate through a long pipe circuit, the installation of special equipment will be required - a pumping unit.
• Devices for releasing accumulated air are required to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized to ensure coolant circulation with maximum efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and eliminating the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature levels in heating radiators and in underfloor heating circuits are completely different. If in a central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the condition of the insulation screed and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the coolant in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the range of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is necessary to install a special unit that will mix the coolant from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, so installing appropriate filters will not hurt, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the operating parameters of the system - pressure in the circuit and temperature level, you will need appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without compliance with this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if it is planned to connect to central risers, then the “warm floors” created should in no way interfere with the normal operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the standard connection schemes to the central system will be proposed. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical diagrams for connecting a “warm floor” to the wiring of a heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last along the heating supply riser in the entrance.

An inlet valve (item 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system (item 1), not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here to prevent unclean coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

A check valve (item 2) and a shut-off valve are installed at the outlet of the system.

The temperature of the coolant in the “warm floor” circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (item 3). This can be a device with manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one - with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the entrance to the supply manifold (shown with a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo drive

To ensure circulation, a pump is installed (item 4), which must, in terms of its performance and generated pressure, correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (item 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which, if necessary, equalizes the pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (item 6) and drain valves (item 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon receipt of the appropriate permission to tie into the central one), then they can be used here other wiring diagrams:

General adjustment, in addition, is done using balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (item 5) provides the pressure drop required for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect; it is quite difficult to accurately balance.

The circuit is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is poor.

Both the coolant temperature in the “warm floor” circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

A two-way valve and two control valves are installed.

But there is one important difference from all previously discussed schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (item 13) and its own “safety group” (item 12) in which the most important role is assigned to the safety valve.

An expansion tank and a “safety group” are required if heat is transferred through a heat exchanger

If you plan to connect several underfloor heating circuits, then it is also necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small or, in general, be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means additional adjustment is required.

To do this, taps are installed at each of the outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuits when their use is no longer needed or for carrying out preventive or repair work, without disrupting the functionality of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold assembly with thermostats on each connected circuit

It’s even better if each of the circuits connected to the manifold has its own thermostat. This will make it easier to accurately set the temperature in different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the types of collector-regulating units.

Schematic - operation of the collector unit

Is it worth assembling such a unit yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work, assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made manifold cabinet - in its design, both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important.

In the salon you can select a ready-made manifold assembly for any “warm floor” layout

In the assortment of specialized stores you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three “warm floor” circuits, and capable of taking on the distribution and regulation of multiple circuits laid over vast areas of a large apartment or house.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned in such a way as to minimize long supply sections. That is, the most preferable option would be the center of the apartment complex.

So, the publication discussed the basic schemes for installing heated floors in an apartment. When choosing a specific type and calculating the system parameters, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter have a very serious impact on the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one If heated floors are used for heating, water installation diagrams in an apartment differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

The popularity of heating systems organized on the modern principle of underfloor heating is constantly growing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and “warm floors”, displacing the usual radiator circuits, are included in the designs of multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately as the building is being erected. This is explained by the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - uniform heating occurs down up with optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? When considering possible options, very often electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and water “heated floor” will clearly benefit in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that the apartment already has water heating pipes, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of online search queries on heating topics there is always something like “warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment.”

You may be interested in information on how to install

However, you need to immediately warn the apartment owner who wants to switch to water heated floors - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the context of multi-storey buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very diverse - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such an opportunity exists. But first, you should probably get acquainted with the difficulties that you will inevitably have to overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the measures that will need to be done, some apartment owners will decide to opt for an electric “warm floor” system that is easier to install and safe to operate.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utility companies?

If an apartment owner plans to connect his water-heated floor system to an existing central heating system, he will almost certainly encounter a number of administrative problems.

Heating a multi-storey building is a complex, branched system that was calculated in advance by specialists, and its capabilities are not unlimited. When designing it, we took into account the power of the boiler room or local heating station, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the apartment wiring diagram and connection of radiators - and many other criteria. Independently making any changes to the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance and a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on the scale of the system. But, firstly, there are most likely many who regret installing this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can affect the temperature of the coolant in the radiators of neighbors. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those, in search of the reason, will definitely find it, and an unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the approval procedure with the management company or with thermal energy suppliers. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a bottom supply, this will become the top floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of apartments on the first floor will most likely be able to obtain permission. The extraction of thermal energy for floor heating will no longer affect the radiators of the neighbors on the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions from the outside No utility workers will be nominated. Thus, there will almost certainly be a requirement on their part for the mandatory installation of an individual heat meter.

There may be a proposal from utility companies to organize their heating system on a semi-autonomous basis. In this option, coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the “warm floor” pipes - the circuit will be completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy obtained from the boiler room. It occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Of course, in this case it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize coolant circulation and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve owners from the need to purchase and install a meter for metering consumed thermal energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely switch your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - owners refuse heating and hot water supply services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. In this option, heat meters will not be required - only energy costs - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that this will be the end of the problems of apartment owners - they will face many difficulties of a technological nature. But in se they can still be solved one way or another.

The key issue is laying “warm floor” pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully completed, permission to connect has been received or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a step-by-step solution to the problems of laying the “warm floor” circuits. Here you have to decide on the possible height of the floor level, the method of closing the circuits, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor floors. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of the pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage you have to figure out the optimal laying pattern, the length of the contours, and the pitch of their laying.

Possible obstacles - rising floor level and weighting of the structure

The first thing you need to do is assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after installing a “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And an increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate diagram of a water-heated floor under a screed

• Nobody wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it is necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (item 1), which will prevent heat from being wasted almost in vain on heating the reinforced concrete interfloor slabs.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a layer of thermal insulation of 25 ÷ 30 mm of polystyrene foam is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they even limit themselves to roll foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) about 5 mm thick. But if there is a cold basement or uninsulated basement below, then you will have to use a layer of thermal insulation of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (item 2). The concrete layer not only covers the pipes of the circuits (item 3), but also becomes an accumulating and evenly distributing heat element of the entire system.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is necessary to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And finally, one cannot discount the thickness of the final floor covering itself (item 4). It, of course, is not comparable to the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by using the method of laying a “warm floor” without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or a wooden floor structure can be made on joists, as shown in the figure:

Water-heated floor on a wooden base without screed

Thermal insulation material (item 2) is laid between the joists installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (item 1). Boards are stuffed on top (item 3) with a step ensuring the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (item 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” circuit (item 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered on top with sheets of plywood, OSB, plasterboard, etc. (item 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finishing coating.

This method of installation is somewhat inferior to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can gain precious millimeters of height and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. This means that you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let’s go through the main components for laying the “warm floor” circuit - insulating mats and the pipes themselves.

Selection of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in almost ideal conditions (the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly effective insulation, and there is a well-heated room below) rolled materials, for example, penofol, can be used.

Penofol prices

Laying the circuit in this case can be carried out by tying pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If higher quality insulation is required, then mats made of polystyrene foam are used (preferably extruded).

Such insulation can be in the form of separate slabs, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an “accordion” or “tractor caterpillar”. Very often, such products have a mesh applied on them, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be done to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips, which securely hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile mats made of polystyrene foam for water-heated floors. The protrusions - bosses - placed on their surface allow you to quickly and reliably fix the loops of the circuit without the use of any additional accessories.

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laid, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, creation of a waterproofing barrier and simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

By the way, such mats can also be used if you decide to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already inserted into them.

Selection of pipes for “warm floor”

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the circuits are installed for a long time, hidden with a screed and an external covering, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of the pipes and their connections. Any leak, even a minor one, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with the obligatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using seam technology are not acceptable.
• Pipe connections cannot be placed deep in the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid coil. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Durability to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical action of the coolant, leading to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the internal walls. Ideally, the pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide such a function.
• Reserve of thermal and mechanical strength. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and to ensure that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, VGP steel pipes are immediately excluded - they are seamed and cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely, there is a great temptation to use polypropylene pipes, since they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case they cannot be used. - not the most suitable option. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, assembling the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, in these places narrowing of the conditional passage, accumulation of solid sediments are possible, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a heated floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

• PE-X cross-linked polyethylene pipes

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“cross-linking,” which gives the material completely new qualities. Pipes made from such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, can easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

The best performance indicators are for materials marked PE-Xa - their degree of cross-linking is the highest, up to 90%. And if they are also supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

Prices for PEX pipes

PEX pipes

In addition, you can purchase pipes made from the most innovative polymer - PE-RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

• Metal-plastic pipes

It’s as if they were specially created for “warm floors” - they are lightweight, have good heat transfer, and allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to the technology). However, you should be careful when choosing them - there are a lot of low-quality products on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are selected, then you should pay attention to the material of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

The best option seems to be a pipe with PE-X polyethylene on the outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

• Copper pipes

In terms of heat transfer and service life, such pipes probably have no rivals.

The plasticity of the metal allows you to create contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, or critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is the very high price.

• Stainless steel flexible corrugated pipes

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying contours, and their resistance to corrosion, enhanced by an internal polymer coating, guarantees long service life.

Besides - uh then that The only exception to the rule is that it is possible to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And despite the fact What the maximum length in a coil is 50 m; they can be safely used for laying longer contours.

The only drawback to using such material is the very high price.

Deciding on the layout of the circuit

In order for a water “warm floor” in an apartment to be truly effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - “snake” or “snail”. But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic diagrams are shown in the figure:

a – “snail”. It is considered the most appropriate from the point of view of uniform heat distribution. It features a more complex installation process.

b – “snake”. It is easier to install, but has a distinct drawback - the heat is distributed zonally.

c – variation of the “snake” with a double entry. The heat distribution over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced stripes.

• To prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the circuit is the pitch of its installation, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value ranges from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it any more, since the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The installation step largely depends on how you plan to use the “warm floor” - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 is required. ° WITH(if natural wood or parquet is used as a finishing coating - up to 27 ° WITH), whereas in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, decorated with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 ° C.

• It is not for nothing that heating radiators are installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This also needs to be taken into account when drawing up a “warm floor” scheme - provide for a denser installation in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the “drawings” of the contour.

Layout pattern	Short description
	An ordinary “snake” - it in itself creates a zone of increased heating, even if you do not use varying the laying step.
	Also a classic “snake”, but with a noticeable compaction of the laying along external wall, of course, to the detriment of heating the rest of the room.
	Laying in a “double snake” with a compacted contour in an area that requires increased heat.
	Two consecutive sections of a “double snake” highlighting an area of ​​increased heating.
	“Snail” with asymmetrical laying of spirals - compaction of the contour towards the outer wall.
	Two consecutive “snails” highlighting the area that requires increased heating.

It is best to immediately depict the laying diagram to scale on a drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The length of the outline can be calculated using the formula:

L= k × Sy/ Hy

L— the length of the contour in a certain area.

Sy- land area.

Hy— step of laying pipes on the site.

k— coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​the room, then the calculation is carried out at once for the entire contour. If there are designated areas with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each and then add it up.

To make the task easier, you can use the calculator below.