Metal sectional fence. Installation of sectional metal welded fences, photos and videos Sectional metal fence: advantages and disadvantages

Sectional fence without problems

Sections made of rods are a fence that is worthy of respect. Such a fence is appropriate in different areas, including sensitive facilities. Sections are actively used in suburban areas, where they effectively protect the territory of a private house or cottage from ill-wishers. In the urban sector it is perfect solution for fencing adjacent areas, school grounds, playgrounds, sports facilities, train stations, warehouses, etc.

What are sections?

A welded mesh fence section is a piece of mesh with high rigidity. This type of fencing copes well with loads of any nature. During the manufacturing process, sections acquire a set technical characteristics, which can be the envy of any other type of fencing. Among the advantages of sections made of metal rods are the absence of rust, color coating, resistance to adverse environments and climatic influences. The sections are designed to be mounted on support posts concreted in the ground. Despite simple technology, welding a fence made of rods is quite effective and reliable.

How are the sections made?

Welded mesh fence sections are made from metal rods that are processed and joined together by laser welding. To process the rods, hot-dip galvanizing, nanoceramics and powder-polymer painting are used. Triple processing - effective method protection of metal from corrosion, damage, as well as the ability to obtain the desired color.

Sections are produced in two ways: by standard sizes and according to individual customer requests. In the second case, the customer will receive a fence of the desired color and size. In addition, you can specify additional characteristics: the diameter of the rods, their location, the presence of stiffeners, etc.

How is the fence assembled?

Assembling the fence requires a little time and effort. If you wish, you can handle the installation yourself, especially when you have a couple of assistants. When installing support pillars it is important to install them at the correct distance from each other, which is necessary for attaching the sections. Staples and clamps are suitable as fasteners. Clamps must be purchased taking into account the diameter of the support column, so they will not fit any supports. Staples, on the contrary, are universal and fit all posts, but at the same time they damage protective covering pillar If the choice requires labor, as well as installation, then it is advisable to seek help from specialists who will not only help with the choice, but also with delivery. And also with the installation of fencing.

Sections made of rods are a universal fence.

Sectional fences are used very often as fencing around a site. And basically such fences are made from chain-link mesh. To do sectional fence with your own hands, you will need a little more time, because unlike tension method Installation for such work will require a different set of tools. What is needed for this?

Materials

To build a fence you will need the following materials:

• Rabitz;
• iron pillars made of round or square profile;
• corner for making a frame;
• self-tapping screws as fasteners;
• crushed stone and mortar for concreting supports.

Tools

Tools you will need:

• electric drill;
• Bulgarian;

Instructions for installing a sectional fence

Before you start installing a sectional fence, you need to correctly mark the area and identify the location for installing the support pillars. If in your case the installation of a fence is planned around the entire territory, then you can mark it with ordinary pegs, driving them into the ground and stretching twine or other rope between them.

Do not forget that the dug-in pillars must be located on your territory and therefore must be marked taking into account the terrain available. To put it simply, the pillars will need to be dug in from inside marked area.

The reliability and aesthetics of the entire fence will depend on the evenly installed supports. There are two ways to install pillars:

• using concreting;
• using fence crutches;

In the first case, installation is carried out as follows.

To install pillars 1.2–1.3 meters long, it will be enough to dig a hole with a depth of 45–50 cm. If you use a manual or automatic drill, check the verticality of the hole being dug so that it does not turn out askew.

Before installing the post in the hole, place half a brick, and installed pole prop up wooden block. Use a spirit level to check that the installation is horizontal. Pour crushed stone around the post and compact it thoroughly so that the post takes a stable position.

The hole does not need to be completely filled with crushed stone; leave 15 - 20 cm from the surface to fill it with solution.

Then, using a trowel, place the mortar on top of the remaining part of the hole and level it. Thus, you need to dig in all the supports, and if you do everything correctly, they will be as stable as possible.

If you use fence spikes, you will not need to dig holes to install them. They are driven into the ground with a sledgehammer to the required level and also leveled using a level. The posts are inserted into the crutches and secured with pre-provided bolts.

To protect the poles from bad weather, small iron caps are welded to them on top to prevent rainwater from getting inside.

We make sections

While the concrete under the pillars is drying, you can prepare the sections. Manufacturing takes place in several stages.

Taking measurements

To do this, we measure the distance from one pillar to another and, stepping back 15 cm on each side for the connections, we obtain the required length of the section. If you are installing a fence on a flat area, then the height needs to be measured once: it will be the same for all sections.

We prepare the material according to size

We cut the corners to the required sizes and lay them on a flat surface. We use iron squares to align the corners and tack them on all sides by welding. Then, after taking control measurements, we carry out the final fastening, namely, we weld the seams of the corners on all sides.

We attach the chain-link mesh

Then we take a roll of mesh and unfold it over the entire span. We align one edge, and cut off the excess part (top or bottom) with metal scissors. When did you receive required size, it needs to be secured in the section. This is also done by welding; weld each connection so that the mesh does not fall out of the frame.

If you have a technological welding machine, with which you can weld metal of any thickness, then you will simplify your task. If you have an older model, you may burn the mesh without welding it. In this case, reinforcement with a cross section of 0.6 or 0.8 is used for fastening. Pass it along the entire contour of the mesh and weld it to the frame.

How to install section holders

To attach the finished sections to the supports, you need to weld the holders. To do this, you will need small sections of profile pipe, 40x20 in size. At the beginning, they need to be cut in such a way that when fastened, the ends of the pipes protrude in different directions by 10-15 cm.

An approximate calculation is as follows. If a 50x50 profiled pipe is used as supports, then the pipe size 50+15+15 is used for fastenings, for a total of 110 cm each section. One support requires two holders up and down. After the concrete has dried, they need to be welded to the pipe. You need to weld it like this: mark 50 cm on the pipe, leaving two sections of 15 cm in different directions and weld it to the support at this point.

To correctly mark the mounting location, you need to start from the corner of the area, and you need to attach the holders from this place. We retreat 5–7 cm from the ground, and, leveling it, weld it to the post. Then we weld the upper holder in the same way, and proceed to marking on other posts. To do this, tie a rope to the welded pipe and stretch it to the adjacent support.

All manipulations must be done strictly according to the level, so that subsequent fastenings are at the same level; the final result of the work and the uniformity of installation of the sectional fence depend on this.

Installation of sections

The sections can be installed correctly only with two assistants. Algorithm for attaching sections to supports:

1. First, place several bricks flush with them at the fastening point.
2. We install the section on them and begin to adjust the places where you will weld.
3. Carefully set equal gaps on all sides (use a tape measure to measure) and weld in several places.
4. Then we take control measurements again and after that we finally weld them to all four fasteners.

After you install all sections of the fence using this principle, the welding areas need to be cleaned of scale and painted.

Stepped sectional fence

If your site has uneven terrain, the fence can be stepped. If the sloped side of the lower triangle does not exceed 15 cm, then these places are filled bottom trim. When large voids form, a brick or stone base is installed. To ensure that the brickwork is level, the plinths are laid out immediately after the supports are installed.

If the slope of the fence runs across the line, then immediately before installation you need to build a brick support so that it holds the soil, and only after that secure the pillars in it.

If you have any additions to this instruction, then you can leave your comments for the readers.

Wire mesh is an ideal material for lightweight fencing. It does not obscure the light, and therefore is widely used for fencing beds, gardens, and marking the boundaries of neighboring areas. To install a chain-link fence with your own hands, you don’t need to be experienced craftsman, you just need to familiarize yourself with and select the right materials.

Fence materials

The appearance, durability and cost of a chain-link fence directly depend on the quality of the mesh. Metal mesh is available in three versions:

• non-galvanized;
• galvanized;
• plasticized.

The cheapest of all. It is not suitable for permanent fencing because it begins to rust after the first rain. Typically, untreated black mesh lasts no more than 3-4 years. To extend its service life, non-galvanized chain-link should be coated either with paint or with special compounds, which, after application, form a water-repellent coating on the mesh. This treatment must be repeated periodically, which ultimately costs more than purchasing galvanized mesh.

It is not afraid of moisture and does not require protective treatment. Its appearance is much more attractive; such a mesh looks especially good in sectional fences. The cost of galvanized mesh is higher than regular black mesh, but since it lasts longer and does not need to be painted every 2-3 years, this option is more practical.

Plasticized mesh has a special polymer coating, corrosion resistant. The coating is not only durable, but also comes in a variety of colors, so you can choose a mesh to match the main fence or roof of the house. The most popular are blue and green chain-link fences; it is less common to see a white, red or yellow mesh fence.

Special attention should be paid to the supporting posts of the fence. Chain-link mesh can be attached to metal pipes, steel profiles, concrete posts and even wooden posts.

The most convenient and practical supports are metal pipes square section. Manufacturers offer pipes with already welded hooks, especially for installing mesh fences. To reduce the cost of installing the fence, they also use used pipes, and weld the hooks themselves. In addition, fastening with hooks is not the only option; you can fix the mesh using steel wire.

How to calculate the amount of materials

The most popular for making fences is a chain-link mesh with a width of 1.5 m and cell sizes of 40-50 mm. A standard roll of mesh is 10 m long. To prevent the mesh from sagging, support posts must be installed in increments of 2-2.5 m. This means that no more than 5 posts will be required per roll. The above-ground part of the supports should be 10 cm greater than the width of the mesh, and the posts should be dug into the ground at 1/3 of their height.

So, if you need to install a chain-link fence 30 m long and 1.5 m high, the work will require 3 rolls of mesh and 16 posts 2.3-2.5 m long. Each post should have 3 hooks attached - at the top, bottom and in the middle . By multiplying the number of supports by 3, you will find out how many hooks you will need. If the fence is sectional, additionally calculate the number of metal corners for the frame. The height of each section is equal to the width of the mesh, and the length of the run is 2-2.5 m. The most convenient corner for a frame is 40x40 mm, 5 mm thick.

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Manufacturing of tension fence

Chain-link tension fencing is faster to complete than sectional fencing and is less expensive. The installation process includes marking, preparing holes for posts, installing posts and fence fabric.

To work you will need:

Step 1. Marking the area

Take wooden pegs and long twine and start marking. First you need to determine the location of the outer pillars. In these places, pegs are driven in and a string is pulled between them at a height of 10 cm above the ground. If the fence line has breaks, a beacon is also placed on each of them and a rope is secured. Further along the marking line, you need to drive in pegs where the intermediate supports will stand. The distance between the pegs must be the same and correspond to the width of the run.

Step 2. Preparing holes for pillars

In places marked with pegs, use garden borer make holes with a depth of 80 to 120 cm. The denser the soil, the shallower the depth. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the posts. At the bottom of each pit they arrange sand cushion 10 cm thick.

Step 3. Installation of load-bearing pillars

Prepare the pipes: clean their surface from oil stains and rust, grind it, weld the hooks. The welding areas are cleaned, scale is removed, and then the pipes are primed and painted. After this, the posts are lowered into the holes, leveled, and reinforced with spacers. If all the supports have the same height and are located strictly along the same line, you can fill. During the pouring process, the solution is pierced several times with a steel rod to remove air bubbles from the concrete.

Step 4. Attaching the chain-link mesh

There is no need to unwind the roll to secure the mesh to the poles. It is lifted vertically, placed against the first support and hooked. If there are no hooks, the mesh is screwed with steel wire in three or four places. It is recommended to leave 10-15 cm between the surface of the ground and the lower edge of the mesh. You can attach it close to the soil, but then the cells will quickly become entangled in grass, and debris, branches, and fallen leaves will accumulate under the fence.

Having secured the chain-link to the first post, move on to the second. The roll is unwound 2-2.5 m, placed against a support and the mesh is pulled. To ensure uniform tension, a 1.5 m long steel rod is threaded into the cells along the height of the roll. This process is best performed with an assistant: one person pulls the mesh, the other screws it with wire or hooks it.

Even a tightly stretched chain-link sags over time, especially in the upper part. Reinforcing wire or long steel rods threaded into cells along the perimeter of the fence at a distance of 5-7 cm from the top and welded to the posts will help to avoid this. Sometimes the wire is threaded both from above and along the bottom edge, departing 20 cm from the ground. Finally, the ends of the wire and hooks are bent inward, and plugs are put on all support posts.

Manufacturing a sectional fence

Marking and installation support posts for sectional fences is produced using the technology described above. The only difference is that the posts should not have hooks, but rather welded metal plates. These plates have dimensions of 15x5 cm and a thickness of 5 mm; weld them on top and bottom to the posts, 20 cm away from the edges.

To assemble the sections you will need:

• Rabitz;
• steel corners 40x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• reinforcement bars.

Step 1. Assembling the frame

Measure the distance between the supporting posts and subtract 15-20 cm from it - this will be the width of the frame from the corners. The height of the section is equal to the width of the mesh or the height of the post minus 20 cm. The steel corners are cut to the size of the section and into a rectangle. Then the scale is removed, the inner and outer surfaces of the frame are ground.

Step 2: Preparing the mesh

The roll of chain-link is laid on the ground, unrolled 2-2.5 m and carefully cut to width with a grinder. Now reinforcing bars are threaded into the outer rows of cells on each side. There is no need to connect the rods together.

Step 3. Section installation

The mesh is laid on the frame and the upper reinforcement is welded to the inside of the corner. Next, pull the mesh well down and weld the bottom rod, after which the sides are secured. The finished section is lifted vertically to the posts and welded to metal plates. You can also secure the section with bolts by drilling a hole required diameter in the protruding part of the plate.

When installing the next section, you must ensure that the edges of adjacent frames are on the same line. Even a difference of 1-2 cm will be noticeable and will give the fence a sloppy appearance. Finally, the sections are primed and painted. This way you can make a fence of any size without much hassle.

Video - DIY chain-link fence

Fences, which are produced by industry in the form of sections, have gained great popularity. Produce beautiful and strong fences rational. This is inexpensive and provides a wide range of choices for consumers. In addition, sectional fences produced in accordance with GOST will be guaranteed to serve long years.

The modern construction market currently offers interesting combined models that are becoming increasingly popular. They represent more universal options sectional structures and allow you to realize a variety of customer ideas.

Types of fences

There are three types of sectional fences:

• Made from welded mesh and chain-link mesh;
• Sectional structures made of metal profiles;
• Openwork fence sections.

Sectional fencing made of chain-link mesh

A sectional chain-link fence is the simplest fencing that is installed where the fenced area needs free access to light. The density of the mesh cells allows the fence to be used as a marking of territory or as a barrier against the penetration of animals. Such a fence does not provide shade, does not protect from wind, noise, and prying eyes. However, it is quite appropriate where the yard is surrounded by a hedge.

A sectional chain-link fence is aesthetically inferior to other fences, but can compete with them in cost. By ensuring proper care of the condition of the fence, such a fence can be used for several decades.

Mesh is widely used in fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools on hand. Subject to installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made from black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before its installation, and then periodically update the protective layer.

A mesh made of galvanized wire is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need any protective treatment. made from galvanized chain-link, they look neat and attractive.

Plasticized chain-link is becoming increasingly popular. This metal grid covered with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to atmospheric influences. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have sizes from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m, rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive the cost of the mesh, because this increases the consumption of material.

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

Chain-link fencing can be sectional or tensioned. The first option involves the production of rectangular metal sections, inside of which a mesh is fixed. For sections, metal corners, profiles and round pipes small diameter. They are connected by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass prevents the mesh from sagging.

A tension fence is quicker and easier to install; its design consists only of support pillars and the mesh itself. The mesh is secured using steel wire, clamps, or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes are suitable for poles different diameters, concrete pillars, wooden beams.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional load from the metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

To work you will need:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• a skein of thin rope;
• building level;
• hand drill;
• crushed stone and sand;
• solution;
• profile pipes 60x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• primer.

Step 1: Installing Corner Posts

The area allocated for the site is cleared of vegetation, leveled if necessary, and the location of the outer pillars is determined. Experienced builders It is recommended to make corner posts from pipes with a larger cross-section than intermediate ones, and dig them deeper. For example, if for intermediate supports they take a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Start installing the pillars:

When the solution has hardened a little, you can remove the spacers and begin marking for the intermediate posts.

Step 2. Marking

Between corner supports pull the rope tightly at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span width for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will definitely sag. They step back from the outermost post to the required distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on until the opposite corner. All pegs must be in contact with taut rope and be at an equal distance from each other.

Video - New way to install support poles

Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is filled with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, along the top edge corner posts They pull another rope. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertically, covered with crushed stone and soil and compacted tightly with a crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.

If you plan to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be driven into the ground and not concreted. To do this, drill holes to half the required depth, insert pipes there and hammer them in with a sledgehammer. To protect the top edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, weld a steel plate on one side and place it on top of the post. After driving in the supports, the pits are filled with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and compacted thoroughly.

Step 4. Welding the hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has sufficiently hardened, installation can continue. You can secure the mesh to the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hang it on hooks. There are profile pipes on sale with already welded hooks, but if you have a welding machine, it is cheaper to make them yourself. For this purpose, pieces of steel rod, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - DIY chain-link fence

Step 1. Attaching the mesh

A roll of chain-link is placed near a corner post, unwinded a little and the cells are put on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when tensioning the roll, the mesh will not sag. Having secured the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Having retreated 10-15 cm from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time there is no need to weld it, it will simply help to tension the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is removed, the roll is unwound another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two sheets, use wire from the extreme vertical row one of the rolls.

Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need 6 mm wire and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. Where the mesh adjoins the posts, the wire is welded. Then the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened in the same way, and finally the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not sag or sag.

Step 3. Final stage

Once the fence is installed, the finishing touches need to be completed:

• place plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
• paint the posts;
• Twist the upper tendrils of the chain-link in pairs into 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.

Video - Connecting a chain-link into one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Step 1. Making the frame

A rectangular frame is made from a 40x50 mm corner. The width of the frame is 15 cm less than the width of the span, the length is 10 cm less than the height of the overhead part of the column. The mesh is cut with a grinder to the size of the section, and the reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm is also cut. Along the edge of the chain-link, reinforcement is threaded into the cells and welded to the inside of the section. After this, the frame is sanded, wiped off dust, and primed.

Step 2. Preparing the racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, 15-20 cm away from the edge. The plates are attached to the remaining supports in the same way.

Step 3. Installation of sections

The first section is placed between the pillars, raised and leveled. Then they weld the sides to the plates and move on to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that top bars the frames were single line. After installing all sections, the welding areas are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.

Read step by step instructions How to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence