The currant leaves seem to be burnt. Black currant diseases

There is hardly a garden that does not have currants. Black, red, white, pink, golden - any of them is tasty and healthy and, with proper care, will reward you with a harvest. But provided that the bushes are healthy. To achieve this, you need to have a good knowledge of currant diseases and their treatment.

Currants have a lot of diseases. Most of them are fungal in nature. Most often they appear in damp summers. Pests that transmit them, as well as weeds. Pathogens can survive on them for a long time. If diseases are not treated and currants are not treated for pests, they can not only leave the gardener without a harvest, but also lead to the death of the plant.

Powdery mildew

The spore-bearing marsupial fungus, which is the causative agent of the disease, was brought to us from America more than 100 years ago, which is why the disease is sometimes called American powdery mildew. The pathogen overwinters in fallen leaves and, under favorable conditions, begins to multiply quickly. Powdery mildew is a disease of black currants; white and red currants suffer from it much less frequently.

How does the fungus manifest itself?

• plaque on shoots and leaves is white with a gray tint;
• due to damage to the growth point, the development of shoots stops, they become deformed and then dry out;
• formed berries do not ripen, but become covered with a coating; those that are not formed simply fall off.

How to deal with powdery mildew on currants:

• this fungus is easily destroyed by fungicides, of which there are many on sale, you just need to strictly follow the instructions;
• You can also use folk remedies: infusion of ash in a ratio of 1:10, leave for several days, filter and spray until the manifestations of the disease disappear;
• Mullein infusion helps well: first dilute it with water 3 times, after three days of infusion, dilute it again in the same proportion, spray until the disease goes away.

Anthracnose

This is mainly a red currant disease. It is fungal in nature. The first signs appear already during flowering. Spent at this time correct treatment will help the plant cope with the disease. But if time is lost, then in the second half of summer the red currant bushes will be left practically without leaves, which will fall off, infected with the fungus. On black currants - they will be preserved, but will still dry out.

How does anthracnose manifest itself on currants:

• the appearance of red or brown spots that gradually occupy most of the leaf;
• premature leaf fall in red currants and drying of leaves in black currants.

Similar signs appear on the leaves when currants are infected with gall aphids. To distinguish one from the other, just look at the underside of the sheet. The pest is clearly visible to the naked eye.

What do we have to do:

• in the spring, before flowering, treat the bushes with Topsin-M, adding to it an immunostimulant: Epin, Immunocytophyte;
• during ripening of berries it is possible to treat with biological products: Fitosporin or Gamair;
• when the crop has already been harvested, treat it with any approved fungicide.

White spot

Otherwise, the disease is called septoria. Black currants are more affected. The disease is fungal in nature and is caused by the Septoria fungus. An outbreak of the disease can be expected if the winter was warm and with little snow, and the summer was humid and cool.

Septoria blight is difficult to confuse with other diseases: spots on the leaves, initially brown, quickly acquire a light center, in which, upon careful examination, tiny black dots are visible - pycnidia of the fungus. White spot very quickly becomes aggressive and can destroy not only the diseased bush, but also neighboring plants.

How to fight:

• the first thing to do is collect all the infected leaves and shoots and burn them;
• treat bushes, both diseased and neighboring ones, with copper-containing preparations: Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, Khomom or Oksikhom;
• You can do this preventively: before the leaves appear, immediately after they appear, and after another 21-30 days.

When white spotting appears, it is necessary to spray not only the bushes, but also the soil under them.

Columnar and goblet rust

Columnar rust disease is caused by fungi that often attack cedar and Weymouth pine. From them, rust spores spread throughout the surrounding area, affecting currants, usually black ones. Warm and humid weather promotes the spread of the disease. It usually appears in July. Only yellow spots are visible on the upper part of the leaves; the mushroom itself is located on the inside, first in the form of pads and then columns orange color, then they become like hairs. When the infestation is significant, the leaf appears hairy.

Control measures:

• remove and burn all affected parts of the plant;
• treat the bushes with copper-containing fungicides.

Goblet rust is a fungal disease that most often targets red currant bushes. The rust fungus, which causes the disease, has an intermediate host - sedge, and overwinters on it. Infection of berry bushes occurs in the spring, when spores emerging from the basidia are spread throughout the area. Infection occurs especially quickly in warm and rainy weather. In the summer, the sedge becomes infected, on which the fungus overwinters.

What does glass rust look like?

1. Brightly colored spots with black dots are clearly visible on the upper part of the leaf.
2. On the inside there are orange cup-shaped pads with spores on the top.

How to overcome the disease?

1. Destroy all diseased leaves and branches.
2. Spray the bushes with copper-containing or other fungicides.

Gray rot

Another disease caused by fungus-like organisms that overwinter on plant debris. You can notice it after the first wave of bush growth stops at the end of June. Newly grown shoots begin to wither, starting from the top. In humid weather, you can also see a mushroom covering the shoots with a gray coating. The leaves along the edges are covered with light brown spots, which crack, and a gray coating also appears on them.

To prevent the disease from appearing, treatment is carried out before flowering and when it ends. It is also necessary to treat the bushes even when the harvest is harvested. An infusion of ash with water in a ratio of 3:10 is suitable for this, a solution soda ash with soap, 50 g of both per 10 liters of water.

Drying of currant shoots and branches

It is also caused by a fungus. Its spores ripen in red-brown tubercles located at the bottom of the shoots. Nectrum drying of currants is treated by removing damaged shoots to healthy tissue. To prevent the sections from drying out, they are treated with garden varnish; it is good to disinfect them with Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%.

Striped mosaic

Caused by viruses that are transmitted by sucking insect pests: spider mites, aphids. You can introduce the disease by grafting a diseased cutting onto healthy plant. If you carry out pruning without disinfecting the tool after each bush, there is also a risk of infection.

The striped mosaic appears in early summer with the appearance of a pattern at the central vein of the leaf in the form of bright yellow stripes and spots.

There is no cure for this disease. It is necessary to take drastic measures and completely uproot the bush. You cannot plant currants in this place; you will have to wait at least 5 years.

Terry

A dangerous disease caused by a virus. The shape of the leaf changes, it becomes three-lobed, rougher to the touch, its color darkens, and the smell disappears. Flowers also undergo changes: the petals become narrow and elongated, their color changes to purple or green, and berries do not set in place of the flowers. Flowering itself occurs a week later.

The disease cannot be treated; you need to deal with the bush in the same way as in the previous case.

Disease Prevention

All fungal diseases spread in conditions high humidity. It must be combated by timely pruning, leaving 15 to 20 shoots. In a well-ventilated bush, the humidity is much less.

Other preventative measures include:

• loosening to a depth of about 5 cm and regular weeding; there should be no weeds under the bushes;
• cleaning in the fall from under the bushes all plant debris, including fallen leaves;
• preventive treatments against diseases and pests, including spring treatment bushes before buds open hot water with a temperature of about 65 degrees; the roots of the bushes are covered with plywood or cardboard;
• choosing only healthy planting material and disease-resistant varieties;
• disinfection of tools when pruning;
• strengthening currant immunity with the help of immunostimulants;
• correct and timely care.

Treatment of currants in autumn against pests

After harvesting, there are no longer such restrictions on the choice of various drugs that are used to treat bushes against diseases and pests. Therefore, autumn is the most best time to destroy them. Treatment of currants against pests begins after leaf fall. It should be preceded by pruning and thinning of the bush. Since the best fruiting occurs on young 1-3 year old shoots, all branches older than 5 years are cut out, as well as dry and damaged ones, as well as those growing inside the bush. All trimmings and fallen leaves should be removed from the area or burned. The soil under the currants is dug up to a shallow depth, since it root system superficial. Now we proceed directly to processing.

Fungicides are effective against diseases:

• phytosporin;
• copper-containing preparations;
• colloidal sulfur;
• infusions and decoctions onion peel, celandine, wormwood, garlic, calendula.

Help you deal with pests:

• 0.2% Karbofos;
• Fitoverm.

It must be remembered that not only the plants themselves are sprayed, but also the soil around them - some pests and pathogens overwinter in it. For processing, choose dry and windless weather. After 2 weeks it must be repeated.

• Currants begin their growing season early, so pruning of plants, if not done in the fall, is carried out already in early April before the start of sap flow.
• As soon as the soil dries out a little, loosen the soil under the bushes, combining loosening with fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer. For 1 sq. m add 15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea.
• The soil is mulched with any organic matter in a layer of 6-8 cm.
• Before and after flowering, you can carry out treatment against pests and diseases, if necessary.

Summer

• Currants need to be watered regularly in the summer; they love moisture. Watering is especially important at the time of formation and filling of berries. Sprinkling watering for bushes is undesirable, so as not to provoke an outbreak of fungal diseases.
• If the ground under the bushes is not mulched, regular loosening will be required, especially after watering.
• As soon as the harvest is harvested, feed the currants with full mineral fertilizer– up to 150 g per bush.
• Plants respond well to foliar feeding urea solution using the sprinkling method at the rate of a bucket of water with three matchboxes urea for each bush.
• At the end of July, null shoots, that is, newly grown shoots, are pinched so that they branch better.

Autumn

This is the time to prepare plants for winter. To do this, feed each bush with one hundred grams of superphosphate and thirty grams of potassium sulfate, not forgetting regular watering. If pests or diseases were noticed on the plant in the summer, autumn is the best time to treat them. In the fall, formative pruning of bushes is also carried out.

On garden plot From the moment the buds open to the ripening of the varnish-scarlet clusters, currant bushes are threatened by a host of pests and pathogens. Sometimes you wonder how much effort it takes to grow a healthy crop without losses. You have to choose: either consistently and persistently fight insect pests and pathogens, or immediately buy seedlings of disease-resistant varieties.

Treatment and prevention of red currant diseases

The gooseberry family, which includes red currants, has a lot in common, including diseases. Plants are most often affected by fungal viral infections. And to the issue of treatment experienced gardeners It is recommended to approach it strategically: to treat not individual affected plants, but also all other bushes on the site.

It is important for a gardener to recognize signs of disease in initial stage before it spread

Diseases of cultivated plants have probably existed for as long as the gardens themselves, or even longer, since wild berry plants also get sick.

Anthracosis

Caused by a fungus that causes plants to lose their leaves. In particularly wet years, the disease can spread to all plantings.

A large number of pinpoint dark spots appear on the surface of the greenery, which grow to tubercles 2.5 mm in size. The lowest-lying, shaded leaves are affected first. As the disease progresses, the tubercles rupture and fungal spores come out. They are spread by rain and wind. Arthropods also play a significant role in the transmission of pathogens.

Sores form on the affected parts and the berries fall off. Red currants are defenseless against the pathogen anthracosis. Even if there are only a few lesions, the bushes can completely lose their leaf cover.

Even a few outbreaks of anthracosis can cause redcurrant leaf loss

Plants affected by anthracosis lose their immunity and their frost resistance decreases. There are high risks of crop loss. There are no varieties that are immune to anthracosis. Relatively immune

• Victoria,
• Dutch red,
• Faya is fertile,
• Chulkovskaya,
• Generous.

Treatment and prevention measures:

1. A careful selection of seedlings is carried out.
2. Before planting, the plants are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, then washed with water.
3. Plant only in places where currants have not previously grown, avoiding proximity to trees and low-lying areas that contribute to the preservation and spread of the fungus.
4. Remove and destroy fallen leaves.
5. They dig up the ground under the bushes.
6. In late autumn and spring, before the buds swell, the plants and the soil under them are sprayed with 1% solutions of copper preparations.
7. In summer, currant plantings are treated at least 3-4 times with 1% Bordeaux mixture, first before budding, then immediately after flowering, then after 10 days. The final treatment is carried out after harvesting.

Some guidelines recommend using the drug Nitrafen. But it is poorly decomposed, very toxic and accumulates in the soil. Now it is prohibited to use it on private farms.

When spraying plants, make sure that the treatment and prophylactic solutions irrigate the bush abundantly, especially carefully treating the underside of the leaves.

Reversion (terry)

Some authors believe that the causative agent of reversion is a virus; according to other sources, the disease is of mycoplasma nature. Black currants are most susceptible to terry, while red currants are affected sporadically. The disease is transmitted through infected planting material or through kidney mite.

When reversing it changes appearance plants. From five-lobed leaves become three-lobed, teeth appear along the edges, and the veins become coarser. They become smaller and lose their intense color. Terry appears most clearly on flowers. Instead, purple scales are formed. The whole plant is reborn. A large number of deformed shoots appear, and the number of leaves increases.

Terryiness leads to degeneration of currant flowers

Sometimes the bush looks asymmetrical: the part affected by terry is thickened due to excess foliage, while the other has a normal appearance.

High humidity aggravates the damage. During dry years, the disease may subside only to reappear during rainy periods.

Considering that the currant mite contributes to the spread of terry disease, it should be identified as early as possible and the affected plants should be thoroughly treated with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur.

Early treatment of the bushes in the spring with a hot shower from a watering can and spraying with freshly prepared garlic infusion gives good results: 50–100 g of crushed garlic is poured with water (10 l), stirred and irrigated the plants. The procedures are carried out after the currants have faded and are repeated a week later.

Glass rust

Most often, the disease affects currant bushes growing near wetlands. Caused by a fungus that requires sedge at an intermediate stage of development. Loss of red currant yield due to damage by goblet rust reaches up to 70%. Rainy weather and dampness worsen the situation.

The proximity to sedge contributes to the spread of goblet rust on currants

At the end of May, bright orange growths with small depressions appear on the underside of young leaves. With further spread of the disease, damaged leaves and ovaries fall off. The spores are carried to the sedge, and the next phase of fungal development takes place there. In early spring they find themselves on the currants again, and the cycle repeats.

The spread of goblet rust leads to the loss of a significant part of the crop

To eliminate the risk of infection of bushes, it is necessary to destroy the surrounding sedge and not plant plants of the gooseberry family in wetlands.

It is recommended to treat currants during periods of greatest susceptibility to the fungus - from May 1 to June 15. To do this, the bushes are sprayed three times with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. The first treatment is carried out in early May, and subsequent treatments are carried out at intervals of 10-12 days. When using a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture, spraying can be done once.

The most resistant to goblet rust varieties of red currants:

• Gonduin,
• Victoria,
• Faya is fertile,
• Chulkovskaya.

Columnar rust

A fungal disease that most affects currant plantings located near coniferous trees, intermediate hosts of the causative agent of columnar rust.

Appears as yellow spots on the upper side of the leaves, from below they are covered with a fluffy red coating like lint. The disease flares up and spreads in humid, warm weather.

Columnar rust inhibits shoot growth and leads to early leaf fall, which weakens the bushes and reduces future harvests.

Precautionary measures are the same as for anthracose. To combat the disease, fertilizing with preparations containing copper sulfate and zinc is used. Superphosphate and potassium nitrate have a beneficial effect during the period of kidney swelling. Ammonium nitrate It is not recommended to give.

The Chulkovskaya currant variety exhibits relative resistance to columnar rust.

Columnar rust is caused by spores of pathogenic fungi

Septoria (white spot)

The disease is fungal in nature and is characterized by the appearance of small red-brown spots on the leaves. Subsequently, the lesions increase in size and take on a rounded shape. The spots, brown on the periphery, have a white center. The disease is accompanied by complete loss of foliage. Infected shoots stop growing or grow weakly. The buds near the lesions dry out.

The first manifestations of the disease are noticeable from the end of May or the beginning of June. The manifestation occurs in the second half of summer. Loss of foliage negatively affects the adaptability of bushes to wintering, suppresses plants and reduces future harvests.

White spotting affects red currants relatively rarely; gooseberry and plantings are more often affected. black currant. There are no varieties resistant to septoria in Russia.

Measures to combat the disease are the same as for anthracosis. This is the use of fungicidal agents; you can also use a 3% solution of iron sulfate and carry out agrotechnical measures.

Plant resistance to white spot increases significantly when mineral additives containing boron, manganese, and copper are added to the soil.

Currant septoria causes leaf drop and suppresses plant immunity

Spheroteka (American powdery mildew)

A fungal disease common among all members of the gooseberry family, although red currants are the most resistant to powdery mildew. Mostly young shoots, buds, and leaves of plants suffer. At the beginning of the disease, the affected areas are covered with a white coating, which later turns brown. The leaves become deformed and the berries fall off. Plant immunity is suppressed, and by the onset of winter they are weakened. If the disease is advanced, the bushes may die.

Protective measures against spheroteca include the entire range of measures used for anthracosis. Preventive spraying with a 3–5% solution of iron sulfate is also practiced after autumn leaf fall and in early spring before buds open to eradicate fungi. For this purpose, the bushes themselves and the soil under them are carefully processed.

Three sprayings with a 1% solution of colloidal sulfur are used, which begin before flowering, then repeat twice with a break of 10–12 days.

Many summer residents prefer traditional methods of combating powdery mildew, using infusions of manure and water mixed in a ratio of 1:3. The solution is left for three days, after which it is decanted, diluted threefold and the bushes are irrigated abundantly.

Natural fungal antagonists multiplied in the infusion – bacteria - when sprayed, cover the plant, destroying the coating. For the procedure, choose cloudy weather so that the sun does not dry out the bush ahead of time and the treatment is effective.

The currant variety Faya fertile is the most resistant to the pathogen of powdery mildew.

Spherotheca most often affects young leaves.

To treat and prevent the spread of fungal diseases of berries, microbiological systemic fungicide Phytosporin, the principle of action of which is based on the suppression of pathogenic fungi and bacteria by waste products of spore cultures included in the drug.

But still best treatment- warning. To maintain plant immunity and prevent major currant diseases you need:

• Comply with agricultural standards, maintaining the required distance between plantings for better ventilation, growth and nutrition.
• Provide illumination to plants through a well-thought-out planting location and crown formation.
• Carry out pruning in a timely manner, getting rid of weak and damaged shoots, avoiding excessive thickening of the bushes.
• Support required level nutrition of plants by applying organic and mineral fertilizers.
• Constantly weed out, preventing the proliferation of pest larvae and fungal spores, while simultaneously improving the nutrition of the roots.
• Remove and destroy fallen leaves to prevent the spread of disease.
• Systematically loosen the soil around the bushes. In this case, soil larvae and pupae die, and plant roots receive more air.
• Regularly water and mulch currants trunk circle.
• Do not plant bushes in the shade of trees or in low-lying areas.
• Preventively treat berry crops with fungicides and drugs that enhance plant immunity.
• Replace old, degenerate bushes in a timely manner with more resistant new varieties.

Careful owners who responsibly select seedlings, carry out measures to care for plants, increase their resistance to disease, bushes, as a rule, suffer less often, and the harvest is stable and of high quality.

Pest control of red currants

Gall aphids, weevils, currant narrow-bodied borers, spider mites, gooseberry sawflies, bud mites, glass beetles, currant gall midges, moths - this is not a complete list of insects that threaten berry plantings.

The drugs must be used in strict accordance with the instructions, observing protective measures.

Pests of red currant - table

Pests of red currant - photo gallery

The larvae of the moth devour the harvest of currants and gooseberries. The flower currant gall midge lays eggs in the buds, inside of which the entire development of the larvae takes place. The flower currant gall midge leads to loss of harvest. The larvae of the glass midge gnaw a hole in the core of the shoot, leading to its weakening and death. Sawfly larvae infect gooseberries and currants. the mite destroys both the crop and the plant itself When infested by spider mites, it may seem as if the berries are ripe earlier Depending on the weather conditions, the life cycle of the pest can last 1–2 years Female weevils lay eggs in the buds, gnawing the pedicels for this purpose Gall aphids cause deformation of the crown leaves and suppresses shoot growth

Pest control of red currants using folk remedies

Folk methods of combating gall aphids and kidney mites include:

• Early spring treatment of bushes with boiling water. Pour hot (80–90 o C) water onto the plants from a watering can. They are scalded until the snow melts and the buds open. Not only the currant and gooseberry plantings are cultivated, but also the soil underneath them.
• Using wood ash infusion. For 400 g, take 3 liters of water, boil, and leave for a day. Filter, bring the volume to 10 liters and irrigate the bushes. Mulch the soil with sediment.
• Spraying with soap solution. Add 10 liters of water to 300–400 liters of grated laundry soap.
• Treatment with onion peel infusion: 500 g of raw material is poured into 2 liters of boiling water, left for two days, filtered, added with another 2 liters of water and sprayed on the plants. The remaining husks are placed in compost or used as mulch.

These measures are effective in long clear weather, otherwise rain will negate all efforts and the measures will have to be repeated.

Pests cannot stand proximity to fragrant herbs, especially marigolds, and spicy vegetables: onions, garlic, and tomatoes. You can use these plants to prepare infusions and decoctions against pests, as well as in joint plantings with currants and gooseberries.

The bushes are also dusted with tobacco dust or pyrethrum powder. To keep the composition on the leaves longer, they can be irrigated with a soap solution in advance.

Spraying with a concentrated solution of urea (700 g per 10 liters of water) in late autumn and early spring rids currant bushes of pest larvae and prevents the development of fungal diseases. The soil under the plants is also cultivated.

It is necessary to attract birds to the site to combat harmful insects: hang up feeders and leave drinking bowls. It is necessary to constantly destroy anthills.

Currant pests - video

Disease-resistant red currant varieties

Red currant varieties Victoria, Faya fertile and Chulkovskaya show resistance to the largest number of diseases of the gooseberry family.

Currant (lat. Ribes)– a genus of plants in the Gooseberry family, which includes about 150 species common in Europe, North America and Asia. The Russian name of the plant comes from the word “currant”, meaning “strong smell”, and indeed, the berries, leaves and branches of black currant are characterized by a strong, unique aroma. The white and red representatives of the genus do not have such a strong odor. The first mention of currants in Rus' dates back to the eleventh century, and chronicles of the sixteenth century tell that at that time black currants were already grown in abundance in gardens near Moscow. Today, perhaps, there is not a single garden in which a bush or two of this fragrant, tasty and healthy berry does not grow.

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Currant bush - description

Currant is a bush from one to two and a half meters high with alternate palm-shaped three- to five-lobed leaves with large teeth along the edge. Currants bloom in raceme inflorescences, consisting of 5-10 small flowers with five petals, five stamens and five sepals. Berries up to 1 cm in diameter ripen by the end of July. The currant bush can begin to bear fruit the next year after planting. Currants are shade-tolerant, but develop better in well-lit areas.

Of the numerous plant species, the most commonly cultivated are black currants (Ribes nigrum), red currants (Ribes rubrum) and white currant(Ribes niveum), in Lately Yellow currants also began to gain popularity. The main number of berries is formed on the shoots of the first, second and third years of life. Currant berries are a storehouse of organic acids, vitamins, macro- and microelements necessary for humans.

Red leaves on currant

If there are red spots on the currants, most likely this is a symptom of the presence of red gall aphid or the fungal disease anthracnose, and we will talk about them later.

Currant bloom

White bloom on currants is a sign of American or European powdery mildew, and brown coating- evidence that you are dealing with advanced cercospora disease.

Currants are drying

If your currants are drying out, try to answer these questions: are they affected by pests? Doesn't it suffer from lack of moisture? How old is the currant bush? Sometimes at the end of flowering you can find that the currants have dried up - not all, but several branches. The reason for this may be the currant glassworm - a butterfly with lilac-black scales on the body and a wingspan of 2.5 cm, which lays eggs in cracks in the currant bark, and the white caterpillars that emerge from them eat away the core of the branches, which causes the currants to dry out.

Fighting method – timely processing insecticides - actellik or karbofos. If the cause is a lack of moisture, then you yourself know what needs to be done. But if your currant is more than fifteen years old, apparently, it’s time to take measures to rejuvenate the bush - cut off the old branches so that the currant can grow new ones, and treat the cuts with garden varnish.

The currants are falling

Currant leaves may fall off prematurely if the plant is affected by anthracnose, blight or aphids. Read about how to treat currants against diseases in the corresponding section (below).

Currant anthracnose

In mid-summer, reddish-brown spots no more than 1 mm in diameter may appear on currant leaves. The red spots that appear on the currant gradually blur, covering the entire leaf. Then the leaves in the lower part of the bush turn brown, dry out and fall off, because anthracnose also affects the petioles of the leaves. This fungal disease is most severe during the rainy season. Anthracnose affects red currants to a greater extent. The disease spores overwinter in fallen leaves, which is why it is so important to remove last year’s leaves from under the bushes in the spring.

You need to start fighting the disease as early as possible; for this purpose, currants are treated with a solution of Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water. Repeated processing is carried out after harvesting.

Powdery mildew on currants

When in the middle of summer a white, loose coating appears on young leaves, which then spreads to the berries and old leaves, then you are dealing with a fungal disease, powdery mildew, or spheroteca. Since it is mainly weakened plants that are affected by diseases, good care reduces the risk of disease to a minimum, but if the disease appears, spray the currant bushes with Fitosporin or a solution of the contents of one pharmaceutical bottle of five percent iodine in ten liters of water. If necessary, the procedure can be repeated after three days.

If your manipulations are unsuccessful, you will have to resort to treating the bushes with a solution of Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride (1 teaspoon per 5-7 liters of water) or a one percent solution of copper sulfate.

Rust on currants

Currants can be affected by two types of rust - goblet and columnar. Goblet rust looks like raised orange warts on leaves, while columnar rust looks like small orange dots. Goblet rust can be transferred to currants by the wind from sedge growing nearby near a pond, and columnar rust can get to currants from coniferous trees. Start the fight against rust by treating currants with phytosporin, and if this measure does not help, treat the bushes with fungicides (one percent Bordeaux mixture, for example). There can be four such treatments with a break between them of 10 days.

Currant pests and their control

Aphids on currants

Most often, gardeners have to deal with such harmful insects as aphids, and very often readers ask the question of how to get rid of aphids on currants. Among the enemies of currants are two types of aphids - leaf gall and gooseberry shoot. The presence of gall aphids is manifested by the appearance of dark red or yellow swellings on currant leaves, depending on the type of gall aphid, and this makes it appear that the currant leaves have turned yellow or red. Over time, the leaves darken, dry out and fall off.

The gall aphid on currants feeds on the juice of its leaves, and in one season there can be seven generations of these insects, each of which makes its destructive contribution to the destruction of your garden, because this aphid settles on any plants. Shoot aphids damage young currant branches, they bend and stop growing.

How to fight aphids on currants, how to treat currants against aphids? Immediately after detecting pests, spray the plant with a solution of actellik or karbofos in accordance with the instructions - these are the most the best means from aphids on currants. If necessary, repeat the treatment after a week or ten days.

Ants on currants

Where there are aphids, there are ants - this is the law of nature. It is the ants that carry aphids to new, “nourishing” areas - to young succulent shoots, the juice of which the aphids feed on, and in the fall they carry the aphids to their anthills, so that in the spring they again bring out their “herds” of aphids to graze in your currant tree. And no matter how you fight aphids, as long as there are garden ants on the site, you will not achieve success, and every year the currant harvest will become more and more meager. In addition, ants spoil flowerbeds and lawns, and their anthill grows every day, reaching a depth of one and a half meters or more, and if you, having discovered the presence of these insects, do not immediately try to destroy them, then it will be much more difficult for you to do this.

There are many traditional methods of fighting ants, but none of them gives a 100% result. The only effective way to get rid of ants is to use modern, highly effective food-based baits and gels. Their poisonous substance does not act immediately, but after a while, so that the worker ants can deliver it to the anthill and feed it to the larvae and the queen. These innovative products were developed in Germany. You can purchase them in online stores.

Moth on currants

Fire butterflies emerge from the ground during currant flowering and lay eggs in its flowers. The emerging caterpillars eat up the currant fruits, entwining them with cobwebs. One caterpillar can spoil up to 15 currants. If the butterflies have already laid eggs in the flowers, you are unlikely to be able to change anything, but you can prevent the appearance of moths: in early spring, lay roofing felt or linoleum around the currant bushes, and sprinkle the edges with earth so that the butterflies cannot emerge from the soil where they overwintered. in the form of pupae. Remove the covering after the currants have finished blooming.

Mite on currants

Work with currant bushes begins in early spring, before the buds wake up and sap flow begins. First of all, you should carry out “hot” processing of currants. It is carried out for the purpose of prevention from pests and diseases and to ensure full development and subsequent abundant fruiting. Heat the water to 80 ºC and pour it over the currant bushes from a watering can with a divider. Ten liters of hot water should be enough for three bushes.

After a hot shower, it is very advisable to prune the currants - remove damaged and weakened shoots, lightly trim the tips of branches that have frozen over the winter, thin out the bush if for some reason you did not do this in the fall. When pruning, remove those branches or buds that have been affected by the bud mite. All trimmings must be burned, and sections whose diameter exceeds 8 mm must be treated with garden varnish. After this, you need to clean the area with currants from last year’s foliage, in which the larvae of insect pests and pathogens probably overwintered.

Treatment of currants against diseases

In early spring, before the buds open, spray the currant bushes and the soil under them with a two percent solution of nitrophen or karbofos - this will protect the plants from almost all diseases. After a while, to be sure, treat the currants with Bordeaux mixture, and when real spring begins and the currants begin to grow, from time to time you can spray the currants with foundationazole for preventive purposes.

Treatment of currants from pests

How to spray currants so that they are not affected by pests? Yes, all the same karbofos or nitrophen, which do an excellent job of their preventive function and protect currants not only from diseases, but also from pests. The fight against bud mites can be carried out at a temperature not lower than 20 ºC, otherwise after spraying the bushes must be wrapped in polyethylene. Don’t be lazy, otherwise you will have problems with kidney mites. To prevent the currant bushes from being harmed by the moth, at the beginning of the growing season, lay roofing material around the bushes, sprinkling its edges with earth. When the flowering ends and the fruits appear, the roofing felt can be removed.

Processing currants in autumn

In the fall, you will need to do annual pruning of currants. All branches older than five years are removed because they are no longer very productive and take up too much space. In addition, you need to cut off to a healthy part or completely all the shoots in which the glass beetle has settled - they are easy to identify, they are withered and dried out. If possible, remove all shoots infected with bud mites, covered with powdery mildew, all weak and too thin zero shoots to the base of the bush.

if you have old bush, start rejuvenating it, just don’t overdo it with pruning: if you need to remove too many old branches, do it in three stages, that is, over three years - cut off a third of the branches every year. And do not forget to treat cuts of thick branches with garden varnish and burn the trimmings.

After pruning, it is time to carry out autumn preventive spraying of currants with a two percent solution of karbofos or a one percent solution of colloidal sulfur. Spray the soil under the bushes generously. Spraying should be done in warm, windless, dry weather.

Currant feeding

How to feed currants

During the period of fruit formation, it is best to use Uniflor-micro as a fertilizer at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, and after harvesting it is advisable to apply fertilizer consisting of phosphorus and potassium: sprinkle a tablespoon of chlorine-free potassium and double granulated superphosphate under each bush , and then water the bush with ten liters of water if the weather is dry. If it rains, just add fertilizer to the soil. All fertilizers are scattered around the perimeter of the crown of the bush, away from its center.

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Preface

Is the currant bush turning yellow, becoming spotted and slowly withering? Perhaps a fungus or pests have settled on it. We present to you the main list of diseases of this plant and methods for eliminating them.

If the currants begin to bear fruit poorly, and its leaves suddenly turn yellow, the problem is not only drought or improper care. The source of infection can be a variety of reasons. First of all, take a close look at the leaf plates. Yellowing along the main veins is a signal of the onset of a dangerous viral disease - striped or vein mosaic. Unfortunately, if your currant has become a victim of this virus, it cannot be cured. You will have to dig up and burn the bush, and treat the place where it grew strong solution potassium permanganate. To prevent this disease in the future, buy planting material only from trusted nurseries, and also fight pests, in particular the gall aphid, the main carrier of the mosaic virus.

Signs of vein mosaic

The second dangerous virus, which leads to disruption of fruiting functions and deformation of leaf plates, is considered to be terry. The edges of leaves infected with the virus become ribbed and asymmetrical, and become significantly denser. The number of veins on them also decreases, the petals on the flowers become narrow, and sometimes the bush takes on a purple tint. The fruiting functions of currants have been lost. As in the case of mosaic, terry is also transferred by pests, such as kidney mites, from a diseased kidney to a healthy one. Therefore, it is necessary to remove such buds in a timely manner so that later you do not have to uproot the entire bush.

To prevent infection with the virus, purchase a healthy seedling, and after collecting all the berries from the bush, treat it with Karbofos, colloidal sulfur. Fertilize black currants with potassium-phosphorus mixtures, this will increase its resistance to terry. But you shouldn’t get carried away with nitrogenous fertilizers; on the contrary, they provoke the development of the virus.

Did you know that the word currant comes from the word "currant", which means a strong smell. Indeed, a pleasant berry aroma emanates from all parts of this shrub, which persists even after picking berries and severe frosts.

Before making any diagnosis as to why your currants have started to dry out, you should analyze several possible reasons. First, take a closer look at the presence of pests on all parts of the plant. They lead to the depletion of the plant, sucking out the cell sap from it. No less often, currants dry out due to lack of moisture, which they especially need on dry days. The age of the bush can also play an important role in this matter.

Nectria drying

If not all the currants dry out, but only a few branches, the cause of the disease may be currant glass. This is a small butterfly with lilac-black wings that lays its eggs in cracks in the bark of a bush. The larvae of this pest eat the core of the branches from the inside, which leads to their drying out. They need to be controlled only with insecticides such as Karbofos or Actellik.

If the reason for the plant drying out is lack of moisture, we replenish it. And if the currant bush is more than 15 years old, do not forget about its rejuvenation. We cut off the old dried branches, giving the opportunity for new shoots to develop, and seal the cuts and cracks with garden varnish.

Depending on the nature of the appearance of the spots, their size, structure and color, you can determine what kind of disease it is and what treatment you have to carry out. If you notice small brown spots with a diameter of 2–3 mm on the leaves, which gradually lighten, leaving dark spots only the border, which means your plant is affected by white spot or septoria. In addition to leaves, the fungus can also affect currant berries. The main causes of fungal infection are poor ventilation of shrubs due to dense plantings. Thin your currant bushes more often.

Spotting on black currants

Along with white spots, completely opposite spots appear on the leaves of the plant, which are brown spots with a light edge. Gradually, the spots spread throughout the entire leaf blade, forming a continuous rusty coating, from which the leaves dry out and fall off. These are signs of brown spot and cercospora. To combat these fungal infections, we spray with Bordeaux mixture at the rate of 100 g of the substance per 10 liters of water. We do the first treatment immediately after detecting signs of disease on the blackcurrant bush, and the second – 10 days after picking the berries.

Premature leaf drop and reddish-brown spots are signs of anthracnose, as shown in the photo. At first, such spots are small, with a diameter of no more than 1 mm. Gradually they increase in size and spread throughout the entire leaf. A bush affected by anthracnose turns brown and dries out. The fungus is carried by wind and raindrops, so anthracnose most often affects currants during heavy rains. Old shrubs and early ripening varieties are most vulnerable to the fungus. Anthracnose spores are frost-resistant and easily overwinter in fallen leaves. Therefore, do not forget to remove autumn leaves and burn them.

We also fight the fungus using a solution of Bordeaux mixture prepared in the same proportions, spraying the bush in early spring and after harvesting. In addition to Bordeaux mixture, currants can be sprayed with a solution of iron or copper sulfate.

On hot days of summer, you can notice a white, loose coating on currant leaves, which gradually covers the berries and old leaves. This is a disease familiar to many gardeners. powdery mildew. Most often it is found on weakened bushes, with broken rules. You can help eliminate the symptoms of a fungal disease by spraying the plant with Fitosporin or a solution of 5% iodine at the rate of one bottle per 10 liters of water. Apply one of the substances several times at intervals of three days until the bush is completely cured.

Signs of powdery mildew

In advanced cases, you will have to use copper-containing fungicides, such as Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or copper sulfate at the rate of a teaspoon of the drug per 5-7 liters of water. To prevent the development of the disease, regularly remove affected and dry shoots, burning them after cutting. To completely neutralize the infection, do not forget to also treat the soil and tree trunk circle where the currant bush grows with fungicides.

Rust of currant leaves is no less troublesome. There are two varieties of this fungal disease - goblet and columnar. The first type consists of convex warts of an orange hue, and the second type is the formation of small orange dots. Goblet rust is carried by the wind from sedge, and columnar rust is carried from coniferous trees. We fight leaf rust with Fitosporin, and in advanced cases we use Bordeaux mixture. We regulate the number of sprayings ourselves, taking a break of 10 days between them.

If you notice the presence of scarlet spots on currants, then in addition to anthracnose, they can be caused by gall aphids. At such moments, the question arises, how to recognize the pest and overcome it? There are two varieties of gall aphids on currants - leaf and gooseberry shoot. The presence of gall aphids on currants always leaves its mark in the form of red and yellow swellings on the leaves.

Gall aphid

Over time, such formations darken, dry out, and the affected parts of the bush fall off. This pest feeds on plant sap and can produce up to seven generations in one season. Aphid larvae and adults settle on any varieties of currants, gradually spreading throughout the entire area to the rest cultivated plants. The presence of shoot aphids causes bending, brittleness and stunting of shoots. After detecting the pest, spray the currants with Actellik or Karbofos, repeat the procedure if necessary after 7-10 days.

Spider mites on currants

To combat spider mites, we increase air humidity and also use them for treatment. chemicals with sulfur content - Karbofos, Phosfamide or colloidal sulfur. The same drugs can be used to combat kidney mites, but they must first be removed mechanically. Kidneys affected by such a pest always differ from healthy ones - elongated and even. They are round, convex, have a dense structure, and when they bloom in the spring, they open up like a head of cabbage. These buds already contain larvae and need to be removed. To remove infected buds, take a container with you, and after collecting, be sure to burn them; under no circumstances add them to compost or dry leaves.

When should bulging buds be removed? This procedure must be done in early spring, when the air temperature warms up to 5–8 degrees. However, many people miss this important point, and as a result, the buds bloom, and along with them, the larvae of the bud mite crawl out. If you do not remove such buds, the shrub will not produce any flowers or set berries, and there is a high risk of infection with the double leaf virus.

One of the most dangerous pests black currant - currant bud moth. These insects damage healthy buds, reducing the yield of the bush for several years to come. Adults are moths with pale yellow wing spots and fringe. These pests are resistant to frost, overwinter well under fallen leaves, weaving dense cocoons, and also settle in swelling currant buds.

Currant bud moth

As a preventive measure against pests, it is recommended to regularly trim damaged and dry shoots, as well as seal cuts and cracks with garden pitch, remove fallen leaves, and burn everything in a fire. In addition to mechanically removing damaged buds, spray the bush with one of the pyrethroid and neonicotinoid drugs.

Another dangerous enemy of currants of all varieties is the currant borer. Adults of this pest feed on plant cell sap. The larvae of the borer spend the winter in the shoots, and at the end of May they pupate and crawl out. After just two weeks, the female again lays eggs on the shoots. A new generation appears in July. Unlike adult individuals, currant borer larvae damage shoots by making numerous tunnels in them, which is why the shoots dry out and slowly wither.

Since the activity of borers occurs during the period of berry growth, the use of chemicals to combat them is not recommended. Early in the morning, spread a white cloth around the bush and shake the bush, destroy all collected pests. We cut off damaged branches, affecting healthy tissue. Annual seedlings can be sprayed, since in the first year they still do not produce berries. Use one of the pyrethroid medications at two-week intervals.

Black currants can be planted in the spring, before the buds open, but the optimal time for planting is late September - early October.

Seedlings must be healthy. It is advisable to choose two-year-old seedlings with roots 15-20 cm and ground shoots about 30-40 cm. The soil should be fertile; acidic and waterlogged soils should be avoided.

Each bush requires from 2.5 to 3 m, and the distance between rows should be at least 2 m. The planting hole should be about 50 cm deep and at least 40 cm in diameter. When planting, seedlings should be placed at an angle.
There should be no coniferous trees near currant bushes.

Growing and caring for black currants

To prevent diseases and get a good harvest of black currants, you need to:
1. In the spring before the buds open:

• cut out diseased and dry branches affected by stem gall midge and glassworm larvae;
• Loosen the soil, apply nitrogen fertilizers, mulch the soil;
• Spray the bushes and soil with nitrafen and Bordeaux mixture against pests and fungal diseases;

2. Before flowering:

• spray the bushes with 10% karbofos emulsion concentrate against mites (bud and spider mites), aphids and other pests;
• spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture against fungal diseases;

3. During flowering, identify and remove bushes that are affected by terry;

4. Immediately after the currants have bloomed, spray the bushes with colloidal sulfur and karbofos against sawflies, mites and moths;

5. After 10 days, repeat the procedure;

6. After picking the berries, spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, and karbofos against pests and diseases;

7. In the fall, cut out old branches, burn fallen leaves, dig up the soil in the rows, burying the remains of leaves, and mulch the soil.

If a small number of pests appear, it is recommended to destroy them manually (for example, it is quite easy to collect moths).

You can also use decoctions and infusions of insecticidal plants, which cause less damage compared to pesticides. When diseases spread and there are a large number of pests, chemical protection measures should be used.

Common diseases of black currant and how to combat them

Anthracnose

Anthracnose, caused by a fungus that reproduces by spores, affects young shoots, leaves, petioles and stalks of currants.

Blurry brown spots with a diameter of approximately 2.5 mm appear on the leaves, in the middle of which a dark tubercle is noticeable. With the further development of anthracnose, the spots begin to merge, the leaves become brown in color, dry out and curl upward at the edges, and then fall off.

Naked Bottom part shoots, sores appear on the shoots and petioles. In bushes affected by anthracnose, the growth of young shoots decreases and the yield decreases. Bushes heavily affected by the fungus die after 4 years.

When the disease is detected in early spring or autumn, the affected shoots are cut out. Before the buds open, the bushes should be sprayed with nitrophen (10 liters of water per 300 g). Before flowering, after it and after harvesting the fruits, spray with Bordeaux mixture.

Septoria

With septoria or white spot, premature leaf fall, poor growth of shoots and their partial death, and drying out of the buds are observed. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus.

When the disease occurs in June, numerous round or angular spots appear on the leaves. Brown, which then lighten in the center, but the border remains brown.

Later, black dots appear on the spots, containing fungal spores. After the spores fly out, an ulcer forms at the site of the spot. Currant bushes become infected en masse at the end of summer.

In early spring, before the buds bloom, the soil and bushes are sprayed with nitrafen. When the disease develops, Bordeaux mixture is used.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that affects all parts of the plant. Damaged parts of the currant are initially covered with a powdery white coating, which can be easily wiped off, and over time it thickens and resembles dark brown felt.

Affected shoots dry out and die, fruits do not develop and fall prematurely, leaves curl. Within a few years, if the damage is severe, the plants die.

Bushes and soil need to be sprayed iron sulfate(10 liters of water per 300 g). When powdery plaque appears, spray the currants with a solution of soap and soda ash. Freshly prepared bleach is also used (10 liters of water per 1-2 tablespoons).

Treatment should be carried out 2 weeks before harvesting the fruits. After picking the berries, use preparations of foundationazole, sulfur, and a 10% emulsion of the drug Topaz.

It is also good to use an infusion of rotted manure (forest litter, hay, greenhouse soil). For the infusion, take 1 part of manure and 3 parts of water, infuse for 3 days, dilute three times with water and filter.

Currants are sprayed with infusion in cloudy weather in 3 stages: before flowering, after and before leaf fall.

Reversion

Reversion or terry currant - viral disease, affecting the entire plant and leading to currant infertility. Transmitted through planting material and bud mites.

It manifests itself in the deformation of leaves, which become elongated, three-lobed, with pointed ends, and the number of veins decreases. The leaves lose their specific smell and may acquire a purple tint. Fruits are not formed.

Sick bushes should be uprooted and burned. Systematically fight the kidney mite.

Before planting, keep lignified cuttings in hot water(about 45°C) 15 minutes.

Glass rust

Goblet rust, caused by fungal spores in the spring, is characterized by the appearance of orange pads on young shoots, leaves, flowers and fruits, which by the end of May resemble a cluster of goblet rust. Further development The fungus occurs on the sedge, where the wind carries the spores. Affected flowers, leaves and berries fall off.

Spray the currant bushes three times with Bordeaux mixture. In summer, mow down the sedge, collect fallen leaves and remove affected shoots.

Columnar rust

Currant leaves are affected by columnar rust, which appears as small yellowish spots and bright orange pads on the underside of the leaf. When the disease occurs, the leaves fall prematurely, which leads to a decrease in the next year's harvest. Currants are most often affected, near which coniferous trees grow.

Spray with Bordeaux mixture before and after flowering, as well as after harvesting.

By regularly caring for blackcurrant bushes, promptly removing affected shoots and promptly treating the soil and bushes with preparations that prevent the development of diseases and the proliferation of pests, you will be able to harvest a wonderful harvest every year.

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