How to set walls at 90 degrees. How to set the ignition timing on the injector yourself

Every car owner someday begins to learn the basics of how to design and repair his vehicle. If you have never had to adjust the ignition timing, then it’s time to learn all about it, and the problem can be met head on.

Internal combustion engine and ignition timing

Before focusing on ignition angles, you should understand the operating principle of the entire system. It's no secret that great value In the operation of internal combustion engines, ignition timing plays a role. It occurs before the piston reaches the highest point during the compression stroke. The consequence of such a mini-explosion is the expansion of gases, as a result of which the piston continues its movement and the working stroke occurs.

Despite the fact that all these processes occur very quickly, they still take some time. And since the crankshaft also rotates at enormous speed, therefore, the piston has time to travel some distance from the moment the mixture ignites until the gases expand. So, if ignition occurs strictly while the piston is at TDC, then combustion will occur at the beginning of the power stroke and will also end a little later. This will all reduce the gas pressure.

But when the ignition of the combustible mixture occurs, on the contrary, very early, the gas pressure will reach its maximum even before the piston is in its uppermost position. This means that there will be some opposition to his movement. This has the most negative impact on the operation and condition of the engine. Therefore, adjusting the ignition timing is very important.

Before we touch on adjusting the ignition timing (IPA), let's figure out what it is and what its effect on the condition of the car is. The optimal situation is when the combustible mixture ignites and burns completely before the piston reaches the TDC position. It is customary to determine this moment by the position of the crankshaft, and the designations are carried out in degrees. In other words, we're talking about about the angle between the crankshaft and top dead center. If the shift occurs towards TDC, then such an angle is called late, in the opposite direction, respectively, early.

It should be noted that the value of the SOP depends on the crankshaft speed. The higher it is, the earlier the ignition timing must be set. If this characteristic is selected incorrectly, then the engine power is reduced, overheating occurs and the unit will fail prematurely, which will entail large material costs. Fuel consumption will also increase, the quantity harmful substances in exhaust gases. So you will damage not only your car and financial situation, but also environment.

Changing the OZ on a gasoline engine

You need to start work by preparing the tool. We will need wrench and a control light. You can't do without a special wrench that can be used to turn the crankshaft. After all, in fact, its position determines the value of the OZ. You can also purchase a special ignition timing corrector, which can set this characteristic automatically.

Place the car in neutral and apply the parking brake. Then you need to remove the cover from the breaker. This way you can easily get to the crankshaft, which turns special key until the distributor runner is in the sector of the first cylinder of the distributor. Also, be sure to follow the positions of the marks on the ebb of the front cover and the pulley; they must match.

Now for correct installation ignition timing, it is necessary to connect a control lamp. One of its terminals is connected to the ignition coil, and the second to the engine ground. Slightly loosen the distributor fastening and turn the key in the ignition. We clamp the slider against the stroke and turn the distributor in the opposite direction of movement of its roller until the control lamp goes out. To be safe, turn the distributor a little more and very carefully return it in the opposite direction. It is necessary to fix the ignition timing lighting fixture. In this position, you need to align and secure the housing with bolts. All that remains is to return the lid to its place.

To automate the ignition timing adjustment as much as possible, a vacuum regulator is introduced. Such a device automatically changes the SOP depending on the load. If the engine is idling, then the vacuum regulator turns the chopper disc towards late ignition. As soon as the load increases, a vacuum occurs. Then the vacuum regulator rotates the breaker disk in the opposite direction. So it seems to turn off, because it cannot create a leading angle. At this moment the centrifugal regulator comes into play. Now only he sets the advance angle.

The fact of vacuum allows you to record the sensitive diaphragm with which the vacuum regulator is equipped. On the one hand, it is affected by our atmosphere, and on the other, by pressure from the carburetor. So it turns out that when the throttle valve is closed, rarefied air from the system does not reach this diaphragm and the vacuum regulator fulfills its mission. As soon as the rarefied atmosphere hits it, it bends and the device stops working, returning everything to its place.

Is it necessary to adjust the OZ - check on the go

There are often situations when the factory settings are lost or simply do not quite suit specific operating conditions. In all cases, you will have to set the OZ yourself. True, you first need to make sure that this operation is necessary, which means we’ll figure out how to check the value of the ignition timing. To do this, we accelerate on a flat area to 40 km/h, then sharply press the gas and listen to our car. If a noise characteristic of detonation appears, which stops after the car reaches a speed of 60 km/h, then everything is in order and the angle is set perfectly.

If the detonation does not stop, then the ignition is “early”. But when the moment of ignition of the combustible mixture is slightly delayed, the detonation will end before the car accelerates to 60 km/h. To change the ignition timing, open the hood, slightly loosen the mount of the distributor-distributor and change the position of the distributor. In the first case, the adjustment involves a shift of several millimeters clockwise, and for late ignition - in the opposite direction.

Installing the correct OZ on the injector and diesel engine

With an injection engine everything is also extremely simple. In this case, you should turn on the ignition and look at the instrument panel. If the light on it lights up, indicating a malfunction, then we take a laptop with a special program, connect it to the on-board computer and carry out diagnostics.

At the next stage, the throttle device. It is also recommended to check the voltage of the on-board network and the sensor that regulates the throttle position. They must comply with the standards. Thus, the optimal voltage for the sensor is considered to be in the range of 0.45–0.55 V, and for the network – 12 V. The damper opens only 1%. We sharply press the gas pedal. The throttle opening should exceed 90%, and the sensor voltage will drop to 0.45 V. Otherwise, it is necessary to urgently adjust the ignition timing.

Carry out all work using non-conductive rubber gloves, as most elements are live.

Setting the angle begins with the fact that we disconnect the vacuum hose from the engine. Then we connect the positive clamp of the strobe to the positive terminal of the battery. The ignition is adjusted by switching the ground clamp, connecting it to the negative terminal and pulling the wire out of the cylindrical socket on the distributor cover. We insert the strobe sensor into the vacant space, simultaneously connecting it to the wire of the first cylinder of the power unit. Next, we start the engine and direct the beam from the strobe to a special hatch. A mark will appear on the flywheel; its optimal location is between the divisions. If this is not the case, then set the angle by slowly loosening the nuts securing the flywheel distributor.

Adjusting the ignition timing on a diesel engine is also not difficult. But this operation should not be underestimated, since a diesel engine can only operate with complete combustion fuel. This will not happen with an incorrectly set ignition angle. The main difference of this system is the absence of candles. Basically, all actions are the same as for . Only in this case it is necessary to remove the decompression mechanism, the engine meter and the body of the neck through which the oil is poured. Be sure to check the fuel supply level. To do this, move the corresponding lever to the extreme position, install the torque scope and slowly turn the crankshaft.

How to set the OZ in a car with LPG or entrust this task to a CVT

IN Lately Gas equipment (GBO) is gaining many fans. And all thanks to efficiency, because such fuel is much cheaper than gasoline or diesel fuel. It should be noted that gas consumption is somewhat higher, and the combustion of the fuel-air mixture lasts longer and occurs at the exhaust stage. You can adjust these parameters; you just need to adjust the ignition timing, and we’ll look at how this is done if the car is equipped with LPG.

It is not difficult to set the OZ, and the fuel will burn even before the exhaust valve opens, which means that the car parts will not be subject to negative thermal effects, and the engine efficiency will increase. The characteristics themselves for gasoline engines and LPG are somewhat different. True, there is an opinion that in modern cars equipped with an on-board computer, such adjustments are carried out automatically. However, this is not quite true. Indeed, in injection systems, the OZ is set in accordance with detonation, but for LPG this phenomenon is unusual.

Owners of cars with gas equipment have an assistant - a variator. This part can change the SOP on the fly without your participation. But it is not basic equipment car, and a CVT should be bought. Actually, gas equipment is also installed at the initiative of the owner, and not the plant. Today, there are different ignition timing variators for gas equipment on sale. This device connects to the sensor responsible for the crankshaft position (DPKV) and corrects its readings to the desired value. Moreover, depending on the variator model, the displacement is carried out either by a fixed amount or depends on engine speed. This device is activated when the HBO is turned on.

Let's look at one of the connection diagrams for the variator for adjusting the gas pump. To begin, select the most convenient place where this element will be located. The far left corner is perfect for mounting a variator engine compartment close to the gearbox. Now remove the cover from the device and make a direct connection in accordance with the attached instructions.

One pin is responsible for supplying voltage to the sensor to which we will attach the variator. We attach the second one to the leg of the gas valve in the gas equipment. But the ground should be connected to the screen of the DPKV cable. Then we strip the sensor wires and connect the corresponding variator leads to each of them. Now all that’s left to do is set up the device and enjoy using it vehicle. Experts claim that the presence of a variator in the LPG system saves fuel by almost 25%. Most likely, the figure is inflated by marketers, but there really is a benefit.

Good day, dear readers. This time we will figure out how to plaster the walls so that they form a right angle with each other. Unfortunately, rarely anyone thinks about this, but in vain.

You may ask: “why is this necessary?” And because furniture and bathtubs are most often made rectangular, and if you neglect simple calculations when plastering, you can end up with large gaps between the bathtub or cabinet and the walls. Do we need it? That's right, that's why this lesson I urge you to study and take this topic seriously, especially since now they are just building some kind of sh... but, not houses.

In my practice, there was a case, by the way, quite recently, when one wall of the room was fifteen centimeters shorter than the opposite one! I don’t know what the builders did when they built that apartment. interior partitions: mushrooms, LSD or something else, but I hope they have already been cured...

Of course, if you have such corners at home, plaster will not help, you need to drywall. But in most cases, nevertheless, builders erect walls while in a LIGHT degree of intoxication, so everything can still be corrected.

I propose to analyze this topic using the example of a standard bathroom in modern times. Housing is budget, although I always laugh when this word is used for seven-digit figures. Yes, only my salary for three years. So, we have such a bleak picture as in the photo. Fathers, instead of plaster we have - masonry mixture! Never, EVER buy this, especially if you plan to plaster it yourself! It is not intended for this, it’s just that the customer, as always, knows better)) “We take whatever is cheaper, we don’t even want to read the inscriptions on the bags.” But if you want to bend your back for four, or even five, days, constantly picking up scraps of mortar from the floor and washing them off yourself, but save forty bucks, then go ahead.

Okay, I digress, it’s just boiling) The task was given - to plaster the bathroom, of course, under the lighthouses, making two corners strictly straight. No problem.

I got distracted again, I apologize. Finally, I will describe the essence of the technology for plastering walls at 90 degrees. It lies in the fact that we install self-tapping screws for beacons on the first wall in the usual way, and on adjacent ones - using a square. Now, you probably imagined an ordinary construction square of 30 cm. No, no, we need something more serious, we will make the square ourselves, from the rules. After all, the very essence of its application comes down to the fact that it should be almost wall to wall. How can we make such a square and how can we test it? For this purpose, a simple and ingenious thing has already been invented - the Egyptian triangle. This is a triangle whose sides are related to each other as 3:4:5, which means that it has right angle automatically. So, we just need to draw such a triangle on the floor, and then align two rules on its sides and fasten them to each other. The rules must be connected by straight edges, that is, those without bevels. Thus, the bevel of the lower one will look down, and the top one will look up.

Now I will explain all this with an example. Our bathroom dimensions are 220x175. This means we take two two-meter rules, one whole, and cut off about 30 cm from the second one. We sweep the floor at the future marking site. By the way, it is most convenient to do it not in the middle of the room, but from the wall. We mark the starting point A on the floor near the wall and set aside (again along the wall) from it any size that is a multiple of three; in our case, it is convenient to take 120 cm. This will be point B. Now we need to make an improvised compass from, for example, a marker and a cord, but such a cord that it does not stretch. You can also use a tape measure. From point A we set aside a distance that is a multiple of four, that is, 160 cm, and draw a small arc. And from point B we set aside 200 cm and also draw an arc. The intersection of the arcs will be point C, and the line AC will be perpendicular to AB. All that remains is to lay our rules along these two lines and fasten them with several screws:

They took the worst rules, don’t spoil the new ones. Just in case, check the angle:

Everything is fine, the megagon is ready for use. In the meantime, we need to mark the beacons and place the screws on starting wall. We use laser for this. First, we mark the places for installing beacons. Here it is also important to make sure that all the screws near the floor are at the same level, because we will have to place the square on four of them at once. It is also advisable to make the upper ones at the same level. In fact, we will not set them according to a square, but simply according to a vertical level; the right angle should be transferred to them automatically. But it would be nice to check it later.

We align all the screws of the supporting wall - we form a base plane. The next step is to place the top and bottom screws farthest from the base wall. After this, it’s time to take our titanic square. In fact, to achieve an angle of 90 degrees, we only need to set the near bottom screw. First, it is better to screw it into the dowel as much as possible (taking into account a gap of at least 6 mm for the beacon). We apply a square to the two lower self-tapping screws of the base and the far one on the adjacent wall, see what we should do with the neighbor. If the rule doesn’t reach it, we twist it so that it does. If the rule hits it, but does not reach the farthest screw, unscrew the farthest one. It may happen that you have to screw/unscrew and apply the square several times. No big deal, not much work. So, that's it, the four lower screws form a right angle.

We set the upper ones according to the level. With a laser, I do it this way: I direct a vertical beam at the head of the lower one and look at the shadow from it, after which I achieve the same shadow from the upper screw.

This method is suitable if there are two lighthouses on one wall. If there are more of them, the beam will need to be directed parallel to the wall, that is, it will no longer fall on the caps. In this case, take a screwdriver and use it to position the screw that sticks out the least from the wall. In the place where the beam will fall on the screwdriver, a mark is placed along which you need to navigate when setting the remaining screws.

Please note that my screwdriver is painted red, and this is done for a reason. It’s just that, oddly enough, the red beam is much more visible on a red background than on any other.

So, we have made one right angle, now we repeat exactly the same actions with the next wall. Only here you will need to turn the square over, because the aspect ratio of the room will change. We set the bottom screws, then the top ones, and checked the layer so that the beacons went through everywhere:

You have already read about how to display beacons in the article “Plastering walls”. The only thing is that I still check them after installation with a laser level to be completely sure:

If desired, after the beacons have set, you can check them again with a square. So far everything has always been the same for me, I think you won’t have any problems either. That's it, you can proceed directly to plastering. This is what we got in this bathroom:

If the walls are being prepared for tiles, then there is no need to grout the surfaces, just as there is no need to remove the beacons. It should also be remembered that the layer of plaster under the tile must be at least 1 cm.

That, in principle, is all the tricks of plastering right angles. Now we can safely put furniture or a bathtub in them, there will definitely be no gaps. I'll be flattered if you subscribe to updates. In this case, you will always receive announcements of new articles by email in a timely manner. Good luck with your DIY renovation!

How to set an angle of 90 degrees without a special tool (square)?

Let's say we have a line to which we need to set a perpendicular, i.e. another line at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the first. Or we have an angle (for example, the corner of a room) and we need to check whether it is equal to 90 degrees.

All this can be done with just a tape measure and a pencil.

There are two great things like " Egyptian triangle"and the Pythagorean theorem, which will help us with this.

So, Egyptian triangle- This right triangle with the ratio of all sides equal to 3:4:5 (side 3: side 4: hypotenuse 5).

The Egyptian triangle is directly related to the Pythagorean theorem - the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse (3*3 + 4*4 = 5*5).

How can this help us? Everything is very simple.

Task No. 1. You need to construct a perpendicular to a straight line (for example, a line at 90 degrees to the wall).

Step 1. To do this, from point No. 1 (where our angle will be), we need to measure on this line any distance that is a multiple of three or four - this will be our first leg (equal to three or four parts, respectively), we get point No. 2.

To simplify calculations, you can take a distance, for example 2m (this is 4 parts of 50cm each).

Step 2. Then from the same point No. 1 we measure 1.5 m (3 parts of 50 cm each) upward (we set an approximate perpendicular), draw a line (green).

Step 3. Now from point No. 2 you need to put a mark on the green line at a distance of 2.5 m (5 parts of 50 cm each). The intersection of these marks will be our point No. 3.

By connecting points No. 1 and No. 3 we get a line perpendicular to our first line.

Task No. 2. Second situation— there is an angle and you need to check whether it is straight.

This is our corner. It is much easier to check with a large square. What if he is not there?

We measure from the corner any length that is a multiple of four, in in this case this is 1.6m.

In the other direction there are three parts, respectively 1.2 m.

Furniture manufacturers always carefully measure its rectangular shape, but in apartments sometimes the geometry of the room turns out to be incorrect, and you need to decide how to make straight corners when plastering. After all, hardly anyone needs problems when arranging the interior, when a wardrobe, made taking into account the presence of baseboards, does not fit in a narrowing corner, or, conversely, there are huge gaps between the furniture and the walls. Therefore, let’s deal with practical stereometry, that is, working with a three-dimensional figure, which, in fact, is the room.

How to make even corners when plastering if the curvature is small?

Most often, owners of houses and apartments are faced with the problem of fairly crumbled external corners that have lost their shape, at the turns of corridors, in niches and alcoves, on vertical beams (reinforced concrete crossbars). It’s quite simple to check how big the error is; just take a regular metric square and place it on the converging surfaces of the walls. If curvature occurs, either one scale will not touch the wall, or vice versa, both will touch, and at the junction of the walls between them and measuring instrument there will be a gap. In other words, our external angle is acute or obtuse, respectively.

If the deviation from the correct geometry is small, up to 2-3 millimeters, to correct it it will be enough to use a counter-shultz (perforated corner overlay) and a putty mixture. With a very small error (up to 1 millimeter), one putty is enough. Before making even corners when plastering walls, a primer is always used, the same applies to other finishing materials.

After priming, generously cover the entire vertical joint of the walls with the mixture and apply the perforated part so that part of the leveling compound appears through the holes. Further with a regular spatula We smooth out the emerging finishing material so that the counter-shultz disappears almost completely under it. From the corner, use the same putty to level the entire wall using the rule.

Aligning external corners with a large error

If the situation is much more serious than we would like, you will need a three-line laser level, according to which we will level the wall, as well as a couple of old two-meter rules and a plaster mixture. It is advisable that the beam level be supplied with a tripod, with which it will be possible to place marks on different heights . We will also use the counter-shultz, but as a fastening element, to increase the reliability and durability of the corner, so we take a perforated overlay with wider shelves or with a mesh. Now regarding the finishing itself.

How to align external corners when plastering - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Making the fixture

Using lasers, between which the angle is exactly 90 degrees, we make a two-meter square from the rules, folding their ends overlapping so that the rays pass exactly along the inner edges along the entire length up to the far ends. We screw in three self-tapping screws at the connection point. Such a device for checking the geometry in the layout is only suitable if both walls are longer than two meters. If one of them is significantly shorter than the rule, we either saw off the excess part of one of the sides of the square, or do not make it at all, but use exclusively a laser, which is more difficult, but no less effective.

Step 2: Setting up beacons

If the walls, the convergence of which needs to be set at 90 degrees, are longer than two meters, we rest the laser beams on their far ends and along the luminous lines with self-tapping screws (twisting them desired depth) we place beacons under the far ends of the connected rules. Next, we screw the screws into the holes specially made for them at equal intervals along the square, first on the same plane, then we rise a meter and a half higher. We try to drill on different levels holes one above the other, which is also useful for laser level.

Step 3: Installing beacon profiles

So, along the entire wall we have self-tapping screws screwed in even rows, and either gypsum plaster or putty. Now we need to make sure that they are all at the same level, for which we resort to a laser, installing it at the lower corner screw on the plane of its head. All other screws should also light up, those that are slightly lower should be unscrewed, and those that go beyond the line should be screwed in. Using self-tapping screws, we vertically attach beacon profiles with a thickness of 6 millimeters using gypsum plaster mortar. To do this, apply the solution in vertical stripes along the screws, put profiles on it and press it along the entire length with a rule until it touches the screws and lies on them. We remove the excess mixture, being careful not to touch the lighthouse.

Step 4: Forming the Outer Corner

Then you can apply the primer, and when it dries, apply the plaster. In general, this primer layer should be the second; the walls should be coated first after placing the screws in one plane, having previously cleaned off the excess mixture that fixes them. Plaster mixture applied in a layer of about 3 centimeters, compacted along the beacon profiles using the rule (for this we disassemble our device). When both walls are ready and we reach their connection, we put the two rules together again and with their help, sketching out the mixture, we form a corner. Next, apply the contra-shultz with the mesh, lightly pressing it into the mixture, which we spread on top. The second layer should lie on top after the first has dried.

Between each layer finishing material It is advisable to apply a primer even before laying the top coat. It follows from this that you should wait for each layer to dry completely.

Plastering internal corners, setting geometry with laser

The error in the degree of internal closure of the walls is somewhat more difficult to determine, since it will no longer be possible to use a laser level; the housing will interfere. Therefore, we still use our same giant two-meter goniometer, but first we still take a level and with its help we prepare the “starting” supporting wall, that is, the one in relation to which we will set the second plane. To do this, you will need a three-line level, whose rays diverge 180 degrees from the body installed in the center of the wall.

How to plaster internal corners - step by step diagram

Step 1: Beacons on the supporting wall

First, we screw in the laser screws along the floor. Then we move to a higher level, fixing the screws exactly above the lower ones. So we move upward, exposing the plane with beacons, which should eventually line the vertical surface into even squares with sides of about 1 meter.

Ignition timing is very important parameter, on which the stability and correct operation of injection and carburetor engines operating on gasoline or gas directly depends. Let's look at what ignition timing is, what it affects, how to determine and adjust it, including gas equipment.

What is UOZ

This is the moment of ignition of the fuel-air mixture inside the combustion chambers at the moment when the piston approaches its top dead center.

The ignition timing must be set correctly. After all, it directly affects the operation of the engine. The thing is that the efficiency and efficiency of the motor directly depends on this angle. Depending on whether the ignition is early or late, the gas pressure inside the system is different.

Gases press on the piston. And the force of their pressure should reach its maximum when the element begins to move downward after passing the top dead center.

If the ignition is early, the fuel-air mixture will ignite when the piston is at the beginning or middle of its journey to TDC. As a result, Engine efficiency is significantly reduced. The gas pressure will force the piston down. The latter tries to move towards TDC.

If the ignition is late, then the spark is supplied at the moment when the piston moves down. In this case, efficiency is also lost and motor power is reduced.

Doctrine of mixture combustion

Its ignition and combustion is more than just a chemical process. This is a whole section of theory. For example, if you delve a little deeper into this area of ​​science, you will know that from a small spark discharge on a candle, a flame front begins and spreads into the combustion chambers. It is known that the duration of a spark is no more than one meter per second. During this time, temperatures can reach ten thousand degrees. The volume of the mixture that ignites is destroyed in an instant.

It has been proven that the burning rate is actually low. However, as the flame increases, the burning rate also increases by 70-80 times. Residues of the mixture, which are not completely removed due to the fact that they are located near the rather cold walls of the cylinder, burn more slowly. In this case, the crankshaft rotation angle is 30 degrees.

At different ignition timing positions, combustion is significantly different. With the correct OZ, the optimal pressure is supplied to where the piston is just passing TDC. This is approximately 10-12 degrees.

If the OZ is knocked down and installed in a later direction, then the most optimal gas pressure is in the 45 degree zone - the piston is in an even lower position here. The gases press on the already descending element. The efficiency of such an engine is reduced to zero.

With a late ignition timing, the fuel may burn out after the exhaust valves open. The gases produced after an explosion are very high temperature. They can easily provoke the ignition of a new portion of the mixture that enters the cylinders. At this moment, you can hear characteristic popping sounds in the muffler.

Early ignition is not all good. In this case, the maximum pressure occurs already at the piston position at TDC or earlier. The combustion products put pressure on the piston, which has not yet reached the highest point. As a result, power drops, detonation and other unpleasant moments appear.

Signs of a downed UZ

The process of ignition of the mixture of fuel and air in the engine chambers (late or advanced) can lead to various malfunctions in the engine. The following signs will help you determine that the ignition timing is set incorrectly:

• There are difficulties starting the engine.
• The car's appetite increases noticeably.
• The engine loses throttle response and engine power decreases.
• You can observe unstable operation on Idling.
• When you press the gas, the responsiveness of the unit is lost, overheating is observed, as well as detonation.
• You may also hear popping sounds - in the carburetor or intake manifold or in the exhaust system.

Consequences of incorrect management

Both retarded and early ignition are not in the best possible way affects the resource of the power unit and its operation. It should be added that from correct angle Engine ignition timing depends not only on characteristics such as engine power or fuel consumption. If the spark appears earlier than necessary, then the pressure of the gases that expand will interfere with the piston. Ignition after the element has begun to move down will cause the energy to overtake the piston and then enter the exhaust tract rather than do useful work.

With early ignition, the rising element must exert significant effort to compress the gases that are formed from the early combustion of the mixture. In this case, the load on the cylinder-piston group and crankshaft increases significantly.

Ignition advance is determined by the following characteristic features- you can hear metallic ringing sounds while the engine is running. The idle speed will also fluctuate. After pressing the gas there will be a dip.

Late ignition also harms the engine. The mixture burns at reduced pressure and increased volume in the cylinder. The combustion time is disrupted, due to which the mixture burns out during the working stroke of the piston. The engine is losing power. To accelerate, you need to press hard on the gas pedal. Also noted high consumption fuel. Coke, carbon deposits and various deposits form inside the engine. Incorrect combustion leads to overheating.

Therefore, you need to know how to set the ignition timing. This will improve engine performance, reduce fuel consumption and protect it from premature wear.

How to determine SOP

In order to determine SOP, you should know several important concepts:

• The angle depends on the crankshaft rotation speed. The higher the engine speed, the earlier the OZ should be. It is also affected by the temperature of the engine and the combustible mixture. The lower the engine temperature, the slower the combustion will be. Therefore, in this case, the ignition timing is adjusted to an earlier direction. On a hot engine the opposite is true.
• Also, the load on the engine significantly affects the SOP. The higher the speed, the earlier the angle is needed. This is done to prevent detonation, since at high loads increased portions of the fuel mixture are supplied to the cylinders.

Why does the OZ go astray?

Situations like this are quite common. The parameters recommended by the manufacturer are lost. After all, they are simply not designed for the specific conditions in which the car is operated. Here you need to know what the ignition timing should be for specific conditions - it is set manually.

But first you need to make sure whether you really need to intervene and change something. You can check the OZ by ear, focusing on your feelings. To do this, the car is accelerated on a straight section to 40 km/h and then the gas is sharply pressed. Fourth gear must be engaged.

If detonation sounds are heard for a short time, but the acceleration is quite confident, you don’t have to do anything with the angle. The detonation should completely disappear within a couple of seconds, after the speedometer marks 60 km/h.

When the sounds do not stop and the car does not accelerate, this indicates that the ignition is faulty. If detonation does not disappear, then the OZ is too early. In the second case, the ignition is later.

Setting up OZ

Let's find out how to set the ignition timing. For this you will need special device- strobe light for ignition. But if this device is not there, then it’s okay. If the ignition is contact, then it is adjusted using an ordinary light bulb. If the system is non-contact, then the adjustment is carried out by ear, and the correctness of the adjustments is checked using the method described above on the road.

Contactless ignition

If there is a strobe, then it is connected to the device according to the instructions. Typically, most devices have three power wires that connect to the battery, and a signal wire. The latter is connected to the spark plug on the first cylinder.

The ignition timing is set at idle, but with the engine well warmed up. This is done in the following way. A strobe light is connected, and its lamp is pointed at the flywheel - there are marks on it. It is better to find these marks in advance by turning the engine by the wheel with fifth gear engaged. The required mark is marked with a clerical proofreader. The strobe light will flash and the mark will appear motionless when shined on it. By rotating the distributor, ensure that the mark is in one place opposite the ebb on the flywheel housing. The VAZ ignition timing according to the passport is plus or minus one degree.

Often, after such tuning, the engine runs stably and well. Fuel consumption drops and dynamics improve. But this is not always the case. In this case, it is necessary to adjust the ignition for detonation.

OZ and injector

Everything is much simpler here. In this case, turn on the ignition and observe dashboard. If the lamp is on, indicating a malfunction, then take the laptop and carry out diagnostics. Next, inspect the throttle valve. Then check the voltage in the on-board network. The damper is opened one percent. Next, sharply press the gas pedal. As a result, the damper will open 90 percent. The voltage at the throttle position sensor should drop to 0.45 V. If this is not the case, adjust the throttle position sensor.

With an injection engine, setting the factory starting angle will be sufficient. Here the electronics decide what ignition timing will be during engine operation in different modes. The initial angle is set similarly to contactless ignition. Adjustment is carried out by rotating the nuts securing the flywheel distributor.

Variators UOZ

With the advent of HBO, car owners were faced with the fact that even the earliest ignition that can be set on the distributor is not early enough for gas fuel. The fact is that, unlike gasoline, propane-butane burns longer, which means problems arise. Since the distributor does not allow for very early ignition so that the mixture can burn in the combustion chamber, ignition timing variators have appeared.

This is an electronic device whose task is to shift the SOP curve. This shift is carried out according to certain algorithms to specific values. If you do not use a variator, the ignition will not be early enough. The combustible mixture will burn out in the exhaust manifold, and this is fraught with various troubles.

Finally

This is how you can adjust and check the ignition timing. When dips appear during movement, when the engine misfires, or simply exhibits unstable operation, many begin to check anything but the OZ. But in vain. This parameter directly affects the stability of the internal combustion engine. A car with a correctly set ignition angle will delight you with its reliable and uninterrupted operation.