How to arrange ventilation in a sauna with your own hands? Proper ventilation in the bathhouse: there is no need for fumes in the steam room. Let's look at the diagrams in a Russian bathhouse and frame walls. Methods for arranging air exchange

Temperature background and high level moisture in the bathhouse is favorable conditions for the settlement of all kinds of harmful microorganisms. These include bacteria, viruses, molds that destroy wood and the pulmonary system of bath lovers. Properly done ventilation in the bathhouse will eliminate the listed negativity. How to make it?

We will tell you everything about the rules for organizing ventilation systems intended for drying wet areas. Using reliable information will help you develop and implement an impeccable ventilation project. The data presented for consideration are based on building codes and practical experience of builders.

The article describes in detail the methods of constructing ventilation systems designed to remove water suspended in the air, drying finishes and load-bearing structures. The materials and components required for their arrangement are described. Photo applications and video tutorials will provide effective assistance in mastering a difficult topic.

The bathhouse needs regular air renewal. This is a safety requirement for people taking bath procedures. Also, proper ventilation can extend the service life to 50 years or more.

The type of ventilation system is selected individually and depends on the location, size of the structure, and materials used in construction.

Bath ventilation schemes

All existing ventilation systems according to their operating principle are divided into natural, forced and combined. In the first case, ventilation occurs due to the random intake of street air, its mixing in the room and the displacement of exhaust air through the holes in a natural way.

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If insulation takes place, then a counter-lattice must be installed to ensure ventilation between the insulation and other layers of the roof. It is also used to ventilate wall structures so that condensation does not form in the thickness of the layers.

To dry floors, use burst ventilation or install a ventilated floor. This option should be considered during the construction phase. To do this, a rough floor is made by carefully pouring concrete on a slope, and the finishing floor is laid from hardwood boards, leaving small gaps between them. This flooring ensures rapid removal of excess moisture.

It is important to properly organize ventilation in all rooms of the bathhouse. Particular attention should be paid to the washing/shower area, where high humidity threatens the formation of fungus and mold.

All rooms of the bathhouse need ventilation, including:

  • washing room;
  • dressing room/rest room;
  • other premises.

To arrange proper ventilation, you have to choose the optimal scheme that suits the requirements and conditions of a particular bath. It is important to remember that fresh air must enter and be removed from all rooms.

They build ventilation ducts, make supply and exhaust openings in the walls, or install an entire system of air ducts - everything is very individual

Experienced craftsmen do not recommend laying complex systems ventilation ducts, preferring to stop at the very simple solution, suitable for a particular case. The rule here is that the simpler the better. And in terms of price, the simple option will cost several times less.

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Ventilation in the sauna is necessary. Without it, relaxing in the steam room will become life-threatening. Hot steam affects the respiratory system, and without fresh air Soon it becomes difficult to breathe. You might even get burned. Let's consider the diagrams of ventilation systems, the requirements for them, and an independent device for simple ventilation.

Consequences of improper or lack of ventilation

The sauna is a realm of high temperature and high humidity. Without a ventilation system, fungus quickly forms and mold appears. The structure itself begins to rot. And this is only a small part of the troubles.

What does improper sauna ventilation lead to?

Signs of insufficient air exchange in a bath or sauna:

  • there are no greasy traces on the exhaust grille (one of the metabolic products during the vaping process is fat);
  • there is a lot of condensation on the ceiling and walls;
  • there is a persistent musty smell in the steam room;
  • If you bring a burning match to the ventilation hole, the flame does not move.

Requirements for ventilation systems

What should be the ventilation device in a sauna? General requirements:

  • Supply and exhaust openings should maintain air balance in the steam room. It should not go away quickly or stagnate for a long time. Inflow and outflow are made adjustable. The direction of air masses must be predictable.
  • Drafts in the sauna are unacceptable.
  • The steam room must be arranged so that at least one of its walls borders the street. An exhaust hole is made here.
  • A gap of two centimeters is left under the doors to the steam room.
  • During an hour of rest in the sauna, the ventilation system must provide at least three changes of the total volume of air.
  • The cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation holes is calculated as follows: steam room volume * 24 sq.cm.
  • The air is directed from the recreation room to the utility rooms and bathrooms. That is, from the dressing room or rest room to the toilet, washing room or vestibule. From here to the street.
  • The exhaust duct is installed above the roof. The inflow is created no higher than half a meter from the floor next to the stove, on the wall opposite the exhaust hole.
  • When installing forced air exchange, the ventilation grille is installed at a height of two meters from the ground.
  • If installed in the sauna gas water heater, then the hood from it is equipped in a separate channel.

It is advisable to use the hot air that comes out of the steam room to heat other rooms in the sauna.

Ventilation system diagrams

The design is thought about even at the design stage of the sauna itself. Ventilation is a specific system of holes through which fresh air flows in and exhaust hot air comes out. The number of these holes depends on the size of the room and the structural features.

How to make ventilation in a sauna? Common schemes:

1. The inlet hole is located immediately behind the stove in the steam room. It is located no higher than thirty centimeters from the floor. On the opposite wall there is an exhaust window, about thirty centimeters from the ceiling.

Not a very good sauna ventilation scheme. The heated air quickly rises and escapes almost immediately. The air flow “does not have time” to capture all the carbon dioxide and remove it to the street.

2. The supply and exhaust windows are located on the same wall. The first is at a height of thirty centimeters from the floor. The second is thirty centimeters from the ceiling. For better ventilation, a blower fan is installed in the exhaust hole.

This system is more efficient. Air enters the steam room through the lower window. “Collides” with the stove located opposite. It passes through the entire room and is then removed through the exhaust vent. This scheme is used when only one wall in the steam room is adjacent to the street.

3. The supply window is installed behind the stove, about thirty centimeters from the floor. Exhaust - on the contrary, also from below. The latter is equipped with a blower fan.

Fresh air enters the room and warms up. Gradually it rises, mixing with carbon dioxide. When the air cools, it sinks and is removed through the exhaust vent.

4. Technical gaps are installed in the floor of the steam room, opening into the empty space (underground). An exhaust vent is installed in the underground, connected to a pipe directed towards the roof. In the room itself, only a supply window is made, behind the stove.

Fresh air enters, heats up and rises. At the ceiling it cools down and descends. Through technical cracks in the floor, waste materials penetrate to exhaust duct. With this ventilation scheme, the floor boards are additionally dried.

5. Inside the steam room there is an inlet opening opposite the stove, at the bottom. Removal of waste air masses occurs through the furnace ash.

The peculiarity of such a ventilation system is that the stove must work all the time while people are relaxing in the sauna.
Only then will the blower “suck” air and remove it.

There are other ventilation schemes, combinations of the described options. But they are rarely used.

DIY sauna ventilation

Let's take for example a sauna, two walls of which are adjacent to the street. Will be needed following materials and tools:

  • ventilation grille;
  • round exhaust valve;
  • corrugated pipe;
  • valves;
  • lumber;
  • appropriate tools (tape measure, saw, screwdriver, hammer, etc.).

Stages of creating ventilation:

1. Calculate the area of ​​the supply and exhaust windows. We make boxes from lumber according to the calculated dimensions.

2. We install the boxes in the marked places (according to the selected diagram).

3. Place an external and internal valve on the box. There is a round valve on the exhaust hole.

4. Place in each box corrugated pipe. It will ensure unobstructed air passage.

5. Close the supply window with a grill.

This is what the installation looks like natural system ventilation. If artificial air injection is necessary, a special fan is placed on the inflow.

Setting up a sauna is a very interesting, but troublesome process. You need to take into account a hundred little things to make it not only cozy, but also safe for health. The latter also depends on air exchange - improperly equipped ventilation in a sauna can create a draft or, conversely, lead to excessive heating of the room!

The steam room is a key place for ventilation

The most important room of any sauna or bathhouse is, of course, the steam room. And in a steam room, the high temperature largely depends on ventilation, and not only this, but also the quality of rest. What is the use of hot air if it is stagnant and saturated with the smell of dampness and sweat products?

In addition, we must not forget that any steam room is a place with high humidity, and therefore an increased danger for all elements (especially wooden ones) to become a breeding ground for mold and mildew. And what kind of sauna can do without electrics these days? Even with a minimum of electrical equipment, you need to install a banal light, make a switch - that’s the risk of getting an electric shock when high humidity!

To avoid having to constantly think about high humidity, it is better to think once about high-quality ventilation. Thinking, of course, will not be enough - you also need to implement the plan correctly! Since our school days, we all know that hot air has one distinct feature - it always tends to rise upward, pushing cold air downward. Thanks to this, the natural circulation of air in the atmosphere on a global scale and in each room in particular is ensured. Applicable to the steam room, thanks to this law of physics, we get the hottest places on the upper shelves and relatively cool ones on the lower ones.

According to generally accepted standards, the air in the steam room should be renewed at least three times per hour, but the optimal recommendations are seven times! Such air exchange can be ensured using conventional supply and exhaust ventilation - hot air, rising to the ceiling, exits through the outflow vent, as a result of which a slight vacuum is created in the inflow air duct, and fresh air enters the room. This system is applicable to the ventilation of the bathroom and toilet, but, unlike them, it has its own characteristics.

But the task is complicated by the fact that the hottest steam, which is located on the upper level of the steam room, should not immediately escape into the hood, otherwise you will be left in a cold sauna, which urgently needs to be heated. If this happens, it means that the hood is not installed correctly! Sometimes this is due to the impossibility of correct arrangement of elements due to architectural features buildings, in this case it is necessary to consider ventilation options combined with mechanical means.

Supply and exhaust ventilation in the sauna - arrangement diagram

First, let's look at the classics - natural supply and exhaust ventilation. This type of traction law is correct location supply and outlet openings. The correct one is when the supply hole is located near the stove-heater or under it (if we're talking about about the electric version), while the outlet is located on the opposite side. Also, cold fresh air will penetrate into the steam room through a specially left 5-7 cm gap under the door.

The supply openings should be located strictly at the bottom so that the cold air can have time to heat up before it enters the area where people are staying.

For proper air circulation, one exhaust hole will not be enough. On the opposite side of the inflow, the first hood is located at a height of about a meter, the second - under the ceiling. Both openings must be combined by an exhaust duct, which is discharged either into the main ventilation system or into the chimney. If the air duct runs separately, then you need to remember that the higher the pipe rises above the roof level, the more draft there will be in the system - it is important not to overdo it!

In order for you to regulate the intensity of air exchange, it is imperative to install shutters on the air vents. How does such a system work? Let's imagine a standard steam room with a heater on the far wall and a door on the nearest one. As expected, a gap is left under the door, and the hoods are located on opposite walls: near the stove and at the door.

Before heating the steam room, it must be properly ventilated so that there is fresh air in the room. The doors and outlets are then closed, leaving only the inlet valve open. The steam room will heat up quickly enough, since the hot air will soon have no place to go out, which means there will be no vacuum in the air inlet.

When the sauna has warmed up, we still leave the upper channel closed, while we open the lower channel slightly - thanks to this, air circulation in the steam room will begin, while the upper layers of the heated air will not leave the room. Cold air will again begin to enter through the supply channel, but thanks to the proximity of the heater to the resting people, it will enter already warmed up, gradually rising upward and replacing the stagnant air.

Thanks to this air exchange, the room will have fresh and warm air. Vacationers may not even notice such a change, enjoying the process. This system ensures economical handling of already heated air, which means you will also save on coolant consumption. In addition, problems with mold and mildew will not affect you - thanks to such circulation, all elements will be properly dried.

Combined system - when there are no other options

The structural features do not always allow us to provide ventilation strictly according to the scheme described above. For example, a steam room has three adjacent walls with other rooms, and the entrance and exit openings have to be placed on one wall. In this case, the correct location must be observed: the supply opening should be located at a distance of 20 cm from the floor, while the outlet should be located at the same distance, only from the ceiling.

Cold air currents entering the room will pass through the stove, heat up and rise upward, refreshing and warming the room. The disadvantage of this method is that the air circulation is too intense, which must be strictly regulated using valves on the holes.

There is also an option in which the inlet opening is located not below, under the stove, but above the heater. If the outlet channel is located at a higher level on the opposite wall, we will get relatively normal movement of air masses. True, it may not be enough, so in such cases a fan is placed in the outlet to circulate air. This will be combined ventilation.

Classic mistakes - what not to do

The most common mistake when arranging supply and exhaust ventilation is the location of the ventilation holes at the same level. As a result, we get a draft below, and the hot air at the upper levels will practically not take part in the air exchange.

If you make only one hole for air outlet under the ceiling, even with correct placement entry-exit mixing of hot and cold air flows will be too fast - the steam room can cool down in a few minutes! Typically, the top hole is used only in cases where you want to quickly reduce the temperature or completely ventilate the room.

When asked what a bath should be like, any person will answer the same: hot and “light”. This is an obvious fact for everyone. Therefore, most people approach the insulation process with all responsibility, using all kinds of methods and materials to ensure maximum heat retention inside. It is not surprising that this creates the effect of a thermos.

They don’t take care of providing the second component of an excellent bath, they miss it and then wonder why the “steam” didn’t work, and instead of a healing effect, the opposite result was obtained. Unfortunately, even experienced people forget about such an important point as.

But its importance should not be underestimated: during the heating of the furnace, oxygen burns, and instead of it CO2 is released, under the influence of which high chance of getting burned. Our blood becomes oversaturated with carbon monoxide, and there is a possibility of disorientation or loss of consciousness (not to mention more tragic consequences). Therefore, a system is needed that provides oxygen supply and additionally regulates temperature regime inside the steam room.

In addition to the functions of replenishing oxygen, ventilation allows you to dry the structure, stopping the negative effects of excess moisture and steam, which can lead to the appearance of mold or rot on structures, as well as an unpleasant odor or a feeling of mustiness. Lack of exhaust hood can destroy wood in just 2-3 seasons.

A ventilation device is required in any bathhouse, not only brick and block; wooden ones are no less demanding when it comes to drying. An exception may be bathhouses with slots, but here they can no longer be called bathhouses: they will not retain heat.

REFERENCE. Particularly noteworthy is the possibility of using natural ventilation, which does not require the use of expensive materials and equipment (however, it is also not worth leaving gaps on purpose). We will tell you how to organize this process in this article. We will not ignore the design of a forced supply and exhaust system.

Ventilation in a steam room: why is it necessary?

Above we have already talked about the danger of a closed environment in terms of exposure carbon monoxide, and also mentioned the need to create a microclimate for drying the steam room after use. Ventilation in a bathhouse or steam room will definitely increase the comfort of staying there and extend the life of the building.

A distinctive feature of the Russian bath is wet steam. At the same time, the temperature regime also differs, which is lower than that of a sauna. However, saturated with moisture warm air warms up the human body much faster and has a softer and more gentle effect (there is no spasmodic effect on blood vessels, it can be visited by elderly people and children).

The design of the furnace is quite specific: as a rule, the stones are placed inside and can be accessed by opening the door. This ensures that the stones retain heat for a longer period of time and are more difficult to fill, even with inappropriate water consumption.

Ventilation in the steam room of a Russian bath. The most important thing is to maintain balance, because the steam has a “shock” character, escaping from the stove immediately after water is splashed on the heater. If it is not designed correctly, you can lose all the steam.

In Russian steam rooms, vents are most often used, which are installed in the lower part of the walls and ensure the safety of the heat that accumulates near the ceiling.

Ventilation in the steam room: requirements

When designing ventilation in a steam room, the requirements for it are simple. The following rules must be adhered to:

  1. coolness should be near the floor, and heat near the ceiling;
  2. even temperature level, without fluctuations;
  3. “exhaust” air must be replaced with fresh, oxygen-enriched air.

Ventilation in the steam room: device

It is based on the laws of physics: the influx of fresh air below displaces hot air from above through the corresponding openings, thereby ensuring air exchange. In this case, a vacuum of air occurs (the pressure decreases), and cool air is drawn in. It, in turn, gradually heats up, rushes upward, and further along the cycle. This is how ventilation works in a steam room; its design is quite simple. More .

Natural or forced?

In order to answer the question: natural or forced ventilation for a steam room, you should look at each type.

Natural the microclimate is formed independently in the presence of planned vents (openings) or cracks when the air convection processes described above are started in the building.

The advantages include: low cost of implementation, absence of extraneous noise/vibration from operating devices and use natural features. Possible difficulties: errors in the placement of holes, as a result: lack of draft (the opposite - the appearance of excessive drafts); penetration of foreign (most likely unpleasant) odors from the street.

Forced ventilation system uses equipment and materials that create artificial air movement in the required direction. Regulated by special control units. This is a very expensive solution that requires competent design and further implementation. When placed correctly, it is guaranteed to ensure smooth circulation of air flow.

Meet combined types for a bath: steam room ventilation, combining both of these directions and having the pros and cons of each option.

If you decide to do ventilation yourself, it’s better to stick to natural ventilation – it is more in line with the spirit of the bathhouse than the use of intricate devices. However, we do not dissuade you from using forced supply and exhaust ventilation.

Ventilation in the steam room of the bath: diagram

Ventilation in the steam room of a bathhouse - system diagram. It consists of two openings: one of which is supply, and the other is exhaust (several exits can be made). When choosing the size of the exhaust opening, you must follow several rules:

  1. the largest should be at the maximum distance from the stove(so that the heat does not go outside in a direct flow);
  2. the rest can be placed around the perimeter of the ceiling;
  3. The hole size is calculated based on 24 square meters. cm for each cubic meter premises. Most often, the diameter does not exceed 30 cm, but the number is 2 or more.

The traction force is determined by the height difference between the supply and exhaust openings.

IMPORTANT! Do not place the holes exactly opposite each other, this will inevitably cause drafts.

Ventilation in a Russian steam bath: diagram

Ventilation in the Russian steam bath is ensured by a scheme in which there are vents with adjustable plugs, taking into account the above rules. Or by using burst ventilation, which we will discuss later.

Bathhouse: steam room ventilation (if the stove is in a dressing room or relaxation room)

About the bathhouse, the ventilation of the steam room, in which the stove is located in a room other than the steam room, you will most likely have to think about forced ventilation, which will ensure the flow moves in the desired direction.

As shown in the diagram:

Bathhouse: steam room ventilation (if the stove is in a steam room or the steam room is connected to a washing room)

It is provided by heating cold air coming from outside from the furnace and repelling it from the heat source, and returning it back after hitting the walls. Air movement can be stimulated by the use of additional fans.

For bathhouses and steam room ventilation, organizing the drying of the bathhouse is especially important, since the water in the washing room can have a truly destructive effect on Decoration Materials and floor. In addition to the main one, enhanced floor ventilation is required: by installing an exhaust opening between the finished and subfloor, the installation can be accompanied by the installation of a fan.

REFERENCE. Make sure that the fan is not exposed to water to avoid the risk of a short circuit.

More than 10 different schemes bath ventilation.

Where to place supply and exhaust openings

There are several simple rules– where to place the supply and exhaust openings:

  1. the supply air (from which freshness comes) should be located below, closer to the floor;
  2. exhaust - placed away from the stove, closer to the ceiling.

Wherein It is advisable to locate the inlet opening near the stove so that during the cold season the air warms up a little before entering the steam room.

The height at which the holes are placed is about 30 centimeters: from the floor or ceiling.

It will be effective installation of supply valves in the foundation (under the floor). Using a valve system or installing an additional protective grille on the opening will protect you from possible penetration of rodents. In this case, it is better to lay the floor with small gaps for more free access of oxygen. If you want a smooth and even floor, then you can get by with special ventilation windows, which can be covered with decorative wooden grilles.

IMPORTANT! When placing the valve on the foundation, it is necessary to ensure that fresh air is taken from the street, and not from the underground, otherwise unpleasant odors will come along with the air.

Common layouts include:

  • for baths with a constantly running oven: the inlet opposite the stove is 30 centimeters from the floor, and the firebox vent will act as an exhaust hood;
  • for baths with pouring floors: the inlet hole is 30 cm from the floor behind the firebox, and the “working off” leaves after cooling through the cracks in the floor;
  • location of both holes on the same wall: opposite the stove, but one is near the floor and the other is near the ceiling. A fan is installed at the outlet. Justified where the wall with holes faces the street.
  • hole location at the same height, but on opposite walls(do not put it in one line!), the fan is installed in the same way. It is considered not very effective, since the heat will almost immediately escape outside, and the room will dry out faster due to the open door.

Ventilation of walls in a steam frame bath

Frame wall pie. See more about insulating frame walls.

This is done by leaving a ventilated gap between the finishing materials and the vapor barrier, which can reach 5 cm. Ventilation of walls in a steam room frame bath provided with a counter-lattice. The corrugations of the ventilation system should be designed in advance in order to place the insulation, taking into account the space for the pipes.

What should not be used when ventilating in a steam room?

Avoid using plastic elements:

  1. corrugation;
  2. boxes;
  3. stubs

This is something that cannot be used for ventilation in a steam room - they cannot withstand high temperatures, will melt, releasing harmful substances and acquiring an unaesthetic appearance.

But their use in the wash room or dressing room is not prohibited.

Only wood can be used as plugs for vents or hatches: metal can burn from heat or rust when exposed to moisture.

Economical solution: burst ventilation in a Russian steam bath

If you are not sure that you can correctly calculate the size of the entrances (exits) or their location, you can use a long-tested method - an economical solution: burst ventilation in a Russian steam bath.

The essence of its application is to quickly ventilate by opening windows and doors wide. They are opened for a short time (no more than 1-2 minutes), for maximum effect It is best to use opposite windows and doors.

This method does not require any financial costs: you use the elements that are in any bathhouse.

IMPORTANT! Do not overdo it with ventilation, you can make the bath too cold. This method is especially good for Russian baths, which are heated in black.

Is it necessary to hire specialists for calculations and design?

If you want a proper, “easy” and trouble-free sauna, ventilation in the steam room plays an important role: from the longevity of the sauna to your own safety.

If bath room is combined with the house, has a rest room or dressing room into which the stove is installed, or there are other reasons for using forced exhaust, then the answer to the question “is it necessary to hire specialists for calculations and design” will be clear: it is necessary.

Otherwise, you can make a mistake in a minor detail, and the purchased calculation equipment will not be suitable for this reason. And this in turn will cause additional expenses.

In addition, in order not to disturb the structure of the building, It is better to design the ventilation of the steam room in advance, before the sauna is built, this is especially true for situations where the air flow inlet must be located on the foundation. Installing a ventilation system in an already constructed building is a troublesome and time-consuming process. It will be necessary to disassemble almost all finishing materials, make room for corrugations, etc.

During construction brick bath without preliminary preparation and cannot be done at all, because not only wooden finishing materials are required, but also wall material - brick, which (some types, for example, silicate) is prone to absorption large quantity water.

Conclusion

Ventilation and renewal of the internal climate are necessary in any case - this is the final conclusion; this is necessary, among other things, to ensure comfort when using the bathhouse. The choice of natural or forced is yours. We hope that, taking into account our material, you will be able to find the most suitable solution for yourself.

For completeness, check out: and.

A well-equipped ventilation system, all other things being equal, guarantees, firstly, a long service life of the building and finishing materials used in the arrangement of the serviced premises, and secondly, the comfort and safety of visiting the latter for the user. Especially topical issue arrangement of complete and sufficiently effective ventilation is in the bathhouse, due to the characteristic temperature and humidity conditions and additional requirements requirements for buildings of this kind.


Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Video - Requirements for ventilation in the bathhouse

Choosing the optimal type of ventilation system for servicing a bathhouse is a topic for many hours of discussion. For example, there is natural ventilation. The expenditure of money, time and effort on its arrangement is minimal - the work literally comes down to drilling holes in the walls, installing boxes/pipes and valves/grids.

Ventilation valve and grille
Ventilation grilles for baths and saunas



However, it is impossible to use natural ventilation to service all rooms of the bathhouse. Of course, it would be possible to save money, but the disadvantage of such a solution will become obvious with the arrival of the first winter: along with the influx of fresh air from the street, cold will come in, and everyone knows the combination of frosty air with humidity - everything around will simply freeze. Therefore, natural ventilation in some rooms must be combined with other existing options in other rooms of the bathhouse.

If the bathhouse is equipped with a washing room or even its own swimming pool, natural ventilation will definitely not cope with the maintenance of such premises - it will have to be equipped exhaust system. And in general, the presence of a forced inflow/outflow of fresh air will be useful both for visitors to the bathhouse and for its premises. Recommendations regarding optimal composition air exchange systems are given in the table.

Table. Choosing a ventilation system for different rooms

RoomRecommended ventilation typeSchemeDescription
Steam room, dressing room or relaxation room Aeration should be understood as organized natural air exchange. The option is most optimally suited for use in a bathhouse: air enters from the bottom of the stove (for other rooms - 25-30 cm above the floor), exhaust is discharged through an opening in the upper part of the room. The work of air exchange is based on elementary physical laws: cold air from the street displaces warm air masses, which have less weight, to the top of the room.
Aeration is ideal for use in rooms with high heat output. The presence of additional humidity contributes to an even more pronounced increase in the efficiency of the system.
Wash room, bathroom, room with swimming pool The system is equipped with a fan and, if necessary, cleaning filters.
Mechanical exhaust ventilation is ideal for use in the washroom, pool room and other wet and frequently visited areas of the bathhouse. Mechanical suction ensures effective removal unpleasant odors and excess moisture, which makes the air in the serviced area safe and clean. It is impossible to use exhaust ventilation alone - air rarefaction is formed. To compensate for the vacuum, an air flow from the street or other rooms is arranged.
Along with this, the presence of supply ventilation will eliminate the likelihood of drafts.
The supply ventilation system can be either natural or mechanical. In combination with mechanical exhaust ventilation, it is more expedient to use a mechanical supply system, because the possibilities of natural inflow may ultimately be insufficient to compensate for the resulting rarefaction.
Mechanical supply ventilation is based on a blower fan. Additionally, it can be equipped with an air heater, which will eliminate inconvenience and solve the problems of ventilation of serviced premises during the cold season. Additionally, the supplied air can be humidified or purified using appropriate devices.
A mechanical system is more complex in arrangement compared to its counterpart, which operates according to the laws of physics: in addition to fans and air ducts, the system may include optional equipment and accessories (diffusers, air distribution grilles, automation equipment, noise suppressors, etc.). This provides an excellent opportunity to design an air exchange system that fully meets the user’s wishes.

Natural ventilation is provided in vestibules, warehouses and other similar premises.

Regardless of the type of ventilation system chosen, the bathhouse must have conditions for simple ventilation. Install adjustable windows in all rooms whose location allows for this.

Video - Types of ventilation systems

Instructions for self-calculation of air exchange

An elementary formula is used for calculation:

W (required volume of fresh/exhaust air) = k (coefficient indicating the frequency of air exchange) x V (volume of the room served, determined by multiplying the width of the room by the length and height).

That is, first you must calculate the volume of each room and find for it the required indicator of the volume of clean air (in calculations it is usually denoted Wpr, i.e. inflow) and a similar indicator of exhaust air (denoted as Wout, outflow). In this case, multiplicity factors must be taken into account. The calculated values ​​are rounded upward - the last digit in the number must be 0 or 5.

Next, the summation of all Wpr is performed. A similar action is carried out for the found Ww. The resulting amounts are compared. If the total value of Wpr exceeds the total value of Wpr, you need to increase the exhaust volume for rooms with a minimum air exchange value, if, on the contrary, increase the inflow by the missing value. That is, at the output, the sum of all Wpr should be equal to the total value of the found Wt.

The results of the calculations will allow us to determine the optimal cross-sections of the installed air ducts and select suitable look ventilation system. Thus, there will not be any special problems with calculating the volume of premises and other related data. For greater convenience of subsequent processing, enter the found values ​​into a simple table, as in the example presented.

In the example given, the total value of Wpr is less than the sum of all found Wt by an indicator equal to 110 m3. In order for the balance to be maintained, it is necessary to ensure an influx of clean air in the missing quantity. This can only be done in the waiting room. Thus, the value of 55 m3 for the dressing room given in the table must be replaced with an indicator of 165 m3. Then the balance will be maintained.

Start calculating the air ducts to be installed and drawing up the structure of the ventilation system being installed.

The ventilation system is designed in such a way that the air moves through the installed air ducts at the following speeds:

  • ≤ 5 m/s in main ducts and ≤3 m/s in existing branches – for mechanical ventilation systems;
  • ≤ 1 m/sec – for air exchanges operating on a natural principle;
  • 2 m/sec – for natural air exchange directly in the steam room.

When choosing the cross-section of air ducts, take into account the above indicators. As for the profile of the duct/pipe, this point is determined by the design features of the air exchange and the bath itself. For example, air ducts with round are easier to install compared to their rectangular “counterparts”, and it is much easier to select the required connecting fittings for round air ducts.

The relationship between the diameter of the air ducts and other significant indicators is demonstrated in the following tables.

For example, we will work with round air ducts. Required sections we select according to the appropriate table, focusing, at the same time, on the indicators in the table. Example of ventilation calculation.

The calculated air flow was 165 m3/hour. The air flow at this flow rate should move no faster than 5 m/sec. In accordance with the table above for round air ducts, we select the cross-section according to the specified data. The table value closest to ours is 221 m3/hour. The air duct cross-section is 125 mm.

Air duct with insulation
Flexible ducts

In the same order, we determine the optimal sections for all branches of the system in the serviced premises, remembering that the air flow in them should move at a speed not exceeding 3 m/sec (in vestibules and storage rooms - 1 m/sec, in the steam room - 2 m/sec sec):

  • steam room: calculated Ww is 60 m3/hour, which requires the installation of an air duct with a cross-section of 125 mm;
  • shower room - Ww is 50 m3/hour, the air moves at a speed of 3 m/sec, a 100 mm air duct is suitable;
  • toilet - indicators are similar to the shower room;
  • pantry, vestibule, etc. – indicators (except for air speed) are similar to shower and toilet.

Important! In the shower room (wash room, room with a swimming pool) there is an increased level of humidity. When determining the cross-section of the air duct for this room, it is necessary to make an adjustment upward (in in this example– 125 mm).

For greater convenience, enter all the information received into the table. You can use the template below as an example.

Important note! In the table above, the exhaust volume exceeds the volume of incoming clean air. This happened for the reason that the sections were determined by the nearest flow rate, and the diameter of the air duct in the washing room was intentionally increased. In practice, such an approach will only be beneficial - the margin for outflow and inflow will not be superfluous.

SNiP 2.08.01-89. Residential buildings. File for download

Sanitary and epidemiological requirements for residential buildings and premises. Sanitary and epidemiological rules and regulations SanPiN 2.1.2.1002-00. File for download

Building regulations Russian Federation heating, ventilation and conditioning SNiP 41-01-2003. File for download

The cross-sectional area of ​​the ventilation window is determined in accordance with the volume of the room served: 24 cm2 for every 1 m3.

All that remains is to deal with optimal height Ventilation hole locations:

  • for the flow of fresh air - on average 25-30 cm above the floor (in the steam room - near the stove);
  • for exhaust air outflow - approximately 15-20 cm below the ceiling, usually on the opposite wall to the supply wall.

Popular bath ventilation schemes

Only options for arranging ventilation in the steam room deserve special consideration - in the remaining rooms everything is done according to the standard scheme, for example, like this:

Air exchange in the steam room can be organized in accordance with 4 main schemes presented in the following image.

Scheme "a". The most popular option. The window for air flow is next to the stove, at a distance of about 25-30 cm from the floor. Incoming fresh air gradually displaces the waste heat upward to the opposite wall. There is an exhaust hole on it, approximately 15-25 cm below the ceiling.

Scheme "b". Both holes are on the same wall. The circuit will only work if you install exhaust fan. Fresh air enters through the lower hole, located in the wall opposite to the stove. The air will rush in the direction of the stove, and then, covering the space of the steam room in an arc, move to the hood and be discharged outside the bathhouse.

Scheme "c". This option is suitable for steam rooms with leaking floors. The inlet hole is located as in diagram “a”. Having warmed up in the upper part of the steam room, the air descends to the floor, passes through the gaps in the plank flooring, facilitating more efficient drying of the boards, and is then discharged through an exhaust vent, usually located in another room. Exhaust can also be carried out through a separate isolated channel.

Scheme "g". Option for baths with a constantly running stove. IN in this case The exhaust function is performed by the furnace ash hole. The supply window is located under the shelf, in the wall opposite to the stove. The height of the inlet opening must correspond to the height of the furnace vent. Fresh air rushes towards the stove, displacing the air masses heated by it to the ceiling. Cooling there, the air descends and is removed from the bathhouse through the ash pan.

To ensure that the air exchange system operates as efficiently and as efficiently as possible, before starting its installation, study and remember a few simple tips.

If your bathhouse has a bathroom or even a kitchen, equip them only with exhaust ventilation - this solution will eliminate the possibility of unpleasant odors spreading to other rooms. As an alternative, you can install fresh ventilation in other rooms, and equip the bathrooms with natural exhaust - in this case, the air will move towards the bathrooms.

When calculating the performance of fans, it is recommended to reduce the total power of the supply units by 5-10% of the total capacity exhaust units. In this case, the exhaust air will be completely replaced by incoming air masses, and a reserve of 5-10% will compensate for the influx of air entering through windows, cracks, etc., which will allow a balance to be maintained.

In rooms with only natural ventilation, it is recommended to make opening windows - this will increase the efficiency of fresh air supply and reduce the risk of fungi, mold, rot, etc.

Important! If your bathhouse has a non-standard configuration, the design of the ventilation system will also be individual. When compiling it, the features of the composition of the premises, their design, design features and so on.

The main stages of independent installation of a ventilation system

Any ventilation system in any room is installed in approximately the same sequence. The differences are present only in the characteristics of the air duct openings and their locations, as well as the configuration of the system (mechanical, unlike natural, are supplemented with various types of devices).

For example, it can be used next diagram location of ventilation elements.

Or its slightly modified analogue, shown in the following image.

Recommendations regarding the choice of the location of each opening, the type of air exchange system for different rooms of the bath, as well as the procedure for determining the characteristics of ventilation elements, were discussed earlier.

Along with this, the procedure for arranging ventilation may vary depending on which constructive option you will give preference. There are few solutions available:

  • independent ventilation in each room. A simpler option. Work is limited to the installation of transoms, windows, fans and other necessary elements, if provided for by the project. Fans can be mounted both in windows and in separate ducts led outside through the wall;
  • centralized system. More difficult option. Requires installation of ventilation ducts. It is used mainly in private homes - in the case of a bathhouse, this option will be too expensive and labor-intensive;
  • "hybrid" option. Some rooms are ventilated individually, others are combined into a joint system.

An appropriate option for use in a bathhouse is independent ventilation - the owner can choose the optimal characteristics of fans and other elements for each room, saving money, time and effort on carrying out the activities necessary to combine the channels into a single system.

Important! The location of some bathhouse rooms may not allow for independent supply and exhaust ventilation. In this case, it will not be possible to avoid laying ventilation ducts. Alternatively, the box can be placed on attic, A ventilation holes arrange it in the ceiling or connect it with channels installed in the walls (the option is more complicated if the laying of such channels was not provided for by the project at the stage of construction of the bathhouse).

In most cases, the first option is used: ventilation pipes of the required length are taken out through holes in the ceilings of the serviced premises and are either equipped with their own fan, if necessary (easier to implement for an untrained user, the procedure is similar to that given in the following table), or they are connected into a single circuit and connected to a common hood (may require the involvement of specialists).

Remember: maximum efficiency of the ventilation system is ensured by using the shortest and straightest air ducts possible - up to 3 m when arranging natural air exchange and up to 6 m when using electric fans.



The procedure for installing an independent ventilation system is given in the following table.

Important! The example describes instructions for arranging a mechanical ventilation system using fans. The installation procedure for natural air exchange remains almost the same: only the stages of laying wires and installing fans are excluded.

Table. Ventilation arrangement

Work stageExplanations

The operating procedure remains the same for the supply and exhaust openings. Only the height of their arrangement and location changes ( possible options discussed earlier), as well as the type of fans used (supply or exhaust). The characteristics of the latter are selected individually, taking into account the volume of the room served, the required speed of air movement in the air ducts, the required air exchange rate, etc. – all these points were covered in the theoretical part.
We arrange the holes in the following order:
- outline the center and contours. We mark the markings so that the resulting hole diameter slightly (usually a 2-3 mm gap is made) exceeds the diameter of the pipe being installed (recommendations for choosing air duct diameters were given earlier);
- using a puncher we make a hole in accordance with the markings. We hold the working tool horizontally, but with a slight downward tilt;
- carefully take out the cut material (a hammer and chisel will help us with this), after which we carefully clean the finished hole from dirt and dust.

The ventilation pipe (ventilation duct body) is placed in the prepared hole, but before that it (if mechanical/forced ventilation is planned) must be equipped with a fan.
Useful recommendation! Buy initially ready-made kits for arranging ventilation, including, in addition to related additions, a ventilation duct/pipe and a fan with a housing of the appropriate size - this way you will avoid difficulties at the assembly stage.
The pipe with the fan is placed in the prepared hole, and the remaining cracks are filled with foam.

The fan is an electrical device, therefore, it must be connected to the network. Let's do this while the mounting foam dries (at least 10-12 hours).
The procedure is standard:
- the contours of the groove for the cable are cut out in the wall using a grinder. Excess material is removed using a bumper;
- a hole is prepared in the wall for installing the switch box (for example, you can use a hammer drill). The box is installed (pre-read the instructions specific to your switch). The switch itself will be mounted after finishing;
- the wire is laid in the groove. To fix the cable we use alabaster;
- connect the wire to the switch and the fan. First, be sure to study the connection diagram recommended by the fan manufacturer in the attached instructions, because It may differ for different devices. As an example, one of the most commonly used schemes is given.

All that remains is to bring the entire structure into proper form. To do this we do the following:
- get rid of excess dried polyurethane foam using a knife;
- putty the grooves;
- we install adjustable ventilation grilles on both sides of the pipe. For fastening we use self-tapping screws.
If provided, at the appropriate stages of work we install additional elements(for example, air heater, filter, etc.). Each of these devices is installed individually - we first clarify these points in the manufacturer’s instructions.

Video - Arrangement of ventilation holes

Video - Ventilation in a bathhouse with your own hands - diagram