How to lay out paths in your dacha yourself. Do-it-yourself garden paths at the dacha, cheap and beautiful: what to make from

The level of comfort of country life is higher if the space around the country house is properly organized. Paths play a big role in country life. They should be comfortable, durable and beautiful. You can make them yourself using improvised or purchased materials.

Options for inexpensive garden paths

You need to start landscaping your summer cottage with a drawing. The plan must indicate:

• all outbuildings (garage, parking, toilet, shed, bathhouse, well);
• recreation areas (terrace, gazebo, barbecue area, swimming pool);
• garden.

First, draw paths between the house and outbuildings. They will be in charge. The secondary category includes garden paths, paths to recreation areas, flower gardens, and greenhouses. After the movement paths are plotted on the diagram, you can select materials and paving methods.

With the help of visual examples, it is easier to imagine the shape of the future path and understand the manufacturing technology. Saving on materials is difficult, but possible. Some of the secondary communication routes can be made from scrap materials:

• bricks left after building a house;
• brick pallets;
• used boards;
• felled old trees.

If you have the energy and time, then you can save a decent amount on the services of a company and design all the paths in the garden yourself.

We make budget embankment paths on our own

The easiest way to make artificial paths with your own hands. Inexpensive natural materials can be used as coating:

• pebble;
• crushed stone;
• gravel.

The advantage of bulk coating is its simple manufacturing technology and low cost of consumables. A simple, beautiful gravel path can make your garden look more attractive. Increases the decorativeness of the border from natural stone or brick.

Stages of work

To ensure that they last for many years, earthen garden paths must be made according to the rules. First take measurements and markings. Use pegs, twine, tape measure. For convenience, mark the places where smooth bends are planned with pieces of an old garden hose.

At the next stage of work, shovels will be required: bayonet and shovel. They need to remove the top layer of soil (25-30 cm) - make a shallow trench. Cover its bottom with geofabric. It will prevent weeds from germinating. Place a curb stone along the edges of the trench and pour 10-15 cm of sand at the bottom.

Compact the sand cushion and pour water from a hose. At the final stage, pour crushed stone, gravel or pebbles in a layer of 10-15 cm. Level the surface with a rake and the coating is ready for use. Caring for it is not burdensome:

• weed removal;
• backfill in areas of subsidence;
• periodic leveling of the surface with a rake.

Use in landscape design

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Neatly laid sidewalk paths, gracefully intertwining between green spaces, are an essential attribute in any garden. If you want your country cottage area was really complete and well maintained, the paths should never be neglected. Fortunately, you don’t need to involve someone to set them up professional designers and spend a lot of money, because you can make beautiful paths in the garden with your own hands.

Wooden path

Wooden cuts

Wooden round timber is a fairly simple material for garden paths. The raw materials for this can be found in any garden - there are probably old trees growing everywhere, which are long overdue for replacement with new seedlings. Wooden paths are made according to the following scheme:

• Cut round timber from the wood you have, 20-50 cm in diameter and 20-30 cm in height. The blanks should be the same.
• Remove the bark from them and dry them in the sun for several days.
• Coat the workpieces with an antiseptic and primer to protect them from moisture and insects. Leave the round timber to dry for one day.
• Remove the soil along the entire length of the future path to a depth of 4-6 cm. Pour a small sand cushion and tamp it down well.
• Start laying the cuts, alternating small and large pieces so that there are small seams between them.

When choosing wood, you need to consider how healthy and durable it is. This will determine how long a path made from saw cuts will last in the garden. It is advisable to give preference to solid types of wood. Eg, oak will last approximately 10 years, pine - no more than 7. Round timber of old trees can be eaten away by insects or rotten.

As practice shows, you don’t have to choose much - they use what is at hand. And if it turns out that after some time some saw cuts have become more damaged than others, then they can always be replaced with new ones.

It is advisable to choose dry logs for the sidewalk path. If the path is not made for decorative purposes, but to be walked on, there is no need to cut the wood into thin rings.

Advantages and disadvantages

Garden paths made of wood have their advantages:

The main disadvantage is fragility of wood. Over time, it rots, especially in humid climates or in places where groundwater is high.

Boards

You can choose wooden planks as a material for paths in the garden. As a rule, such a path is laid as a continuous flooring. This can be done both longitudinally and transversely. To make the path winding, the edges of the boards are trimmed or laid in a special way. Using this approach, you can simulate different options - for example, a pattern similar to parquet.

If the planks are placed at a certain distance from each other and the space between them is filled with gravel or backfill, then the path will resemble railroad tracks.

You can make a path from boards that are lined with solid flooring. This structure is made elevated from the ground by approximately 15 cm. Thus, the boards will not have contact with the ground, and the air space will allow the wood to dry faster after rain, which significantly contributes to the long-term use of the material.

It will take a lot of effort and effort to make a garden path from wooden elements with your own hands, but in the end it could turn out to be a real masterpiece. This path will be an extraordinary and beautiful addition to the garden design.

Masonry

One of the most reliable options is paths made of natural stone. In this case, you can choose rubble or cobblestone - they are equally durable. Laying stones on paths done this way:

• Mark the future path.
• Remove the top layer of soil from the area where you plan to pave the path. The depth of the layer is required to be 8-12 cm greater than the size of the largest stone that is prepared for the path.
• Cover the resulting trench with a 12-15 cm layer of sand, level it well and compact it thoroughly.
• Place the stones one at a time on the sand cushion, pressing them firmly into the base. The step between small stones should be no more than 3-4 cm, and between large stones - 7-8 cm.
• Carefully fill the remaining space with concrete mortar. When the concrete has dried, fill the joints with fine sand or soil to make them look more natural.

Advantages of a stone path

Paving garden paths with stone makes it possible to save money for the developer and allows you to feel like a real landscape designer. Moreover, this process is not so complicated and responsible.

The most important things before you start choose a garden path design and decide on their paving scheme, highlighting the main areas where these paths will lead. These can be gazebos and outbuildings, flower beds and lawns, children's sandboxes, technical structures and barbecue areas, alpine coaster and artificial ponds.

As a rule, the width of the paths is chosen so that a garden cart can easily pass. Depending on the type of path, it is constructed with or without a curb. The path can be level with the ground or rise above it. In everyday life, the first option is more convenient, but the second is better in terms of cleaning - this way less sand or soil is applied.

The path in the garden can be paved on a concrete or cement base. In addition to natural stone, you can choose paving stones, paving slabs, decking, clinker bricks, composite boards, concrete poured into special forms, and artificial stone.

A modern design solution is a geogrid, that is planting small lawn grass between parts of the structure.

Pouring concrete

Concrete is a traditional construction material that is always popular due to its ease of use and its low cost. Build a cast path Anyone can definitely:

• Mark the boundaries of the path, drive pegs along its contour and pull the rope.
• Dig a small trench within the marked contours. Depth approximately 25 cm.
• Place a 10 cm layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the trench. Compact this cushion.
• Cover the pillow with chain-link or any available metal mesh.
• Build formwork around the perimeter of the path.
• Mix the solution: 1.5 parts sand, 1 part cement, 1 part water and 2 parts gravel.
• Pour in the cement mixture and, using a vibrating motion, evenly distribute the mixture over the entire area of ​​the path using a spatula. While pouring, pierce the mixture with a rod to release the remaining air.
• Using the rule, make the final alignment and cover the track with film.
• In 4-5 days the path will be ready. All this time you need to lightly moisten it with water so that the concrete gains maximum strength and does not crack.

Car tires

Car tires have long been widely used in dacha farming: they are used to build swings, ponds, flower beds, and now they are also used to lay paths. This trend is understandable, given performance of this material: tires are easy to care for, resistant to temperature changes and moisture, are durable and non-slip. You can make a garden path out of them this way:

Brick paths

Best used clinker products, since they are characterized by increased resistance to various types of mechanical and chemical influences. The most important thing is that the bricks are without chips and intact, otherwise the path will turn out not only unattractive, but also unsafe.

The path is laid out like this:

• Mark the path: drive a peg around the perimeter and stretch a rope.
• Dig a trench along the contour - depth 20-30 cm.
• Install boards or bars along this trench.
• Pour a 15 cm layer of gravel into the space between the stops and compact it well. Place a layer of sand about 6-7 cm on top.
• Remove the limiters and make curbs instead: on both sides of the path, lay a row of bricks installed “on edge”.
• Form from bricks inner space paths: laying occurs in the usual position using gentle tapping with a rubber hammer or wooden spatula.

Recommendation: the bricks do not have to be laid out closely - to give the path originality, you can leave small gaps and fill them with pebbles. In addition, you don’t even have to fill the seams - after a certain time, grass will grow here and decorate your path.

Paving slabs

Although tile can hardly be called a very cheap material, it is still used quite often for the construction of garden paths. There are several reasons for this: ease of working with the material, excellent performance and aesthetic appearance. But the most important thing is ease of installation.

• Mark the boundaries of the future path using pegs and rope.

A path is an essential element of any suburban or summer cottage, which can, in addition to practical benefits, also provide Aesthetic pleasure . Observing simple instructions, you can implement any of the options described above on your site, so feel free to start working, discovering new opportunities for improving your personal plot.

How beautiful a suburban area looks, on which flower beds, fruit trees and shrubs are carefully planted. But it is the paved paths that give the area a complete look. In addition to the practical one, they also perform an aesthetic function - they visually delimit the area into separate zones. If you decide to design garden paths yourself, then you cannot do without the guides given in this article. So, do-it-yourself paths at the dacha, an economical option. How to decorate and arrange it correctly? Which material is preferable?

The design and style of the paths can change the appearance of the area. There are many ways to arrange garden paths. Many of them do not require special knowledge or the use of special tools. As a material for work, you can choose the most suitable one that appeals to you. Next, several methods will be given for arranging a garden path at the dacha with your own hands from scrap materials.

The material for arranging the path can be: cross-sectional logs (both transverse and longitudinal), bricks, large pebbles, or even ordinary plastic bottle caps. If the site is not used in autumn and winter time, you can consider options for removable tracks. In this case, the coating is placed only on summer period, it can be purchased ready-made, or you can make it yourself.

Whatever path option you choose, you cannot do without preparatory work on the site. This is an important and responsible moment. Any construction work must begin with planning and marking the territory.

When you have visually outlined the location of the paths for yourself, the stage of drawing them on the site plan begins. This can be done in a special computer program or on a drawing by hand. First of all, capital buildings, such as a house and outbuildings, are plotted on the plan. The main zones of the personal territory are drawn, which also require paths. The buildings need to be connected to each other by paths; it is also important to mark a passage from the entrance gate and connect it with those already outlined. These are the main and main paths that will provide functionality and convenience. Next, it’s up to your imagination; paths can also connect the main areas of the yard, such as a playground, a shower and toilet area (if they are located outside the house), and a gazebo for relaxation.

It is important to note the paths that will act as auxiliary ones; as a rule, these are passages to the vegetable garden or separate areas of the garden, the main sources of watering. If necessary, one or a couple of paths can be branched, which will cover a larger area. When marking paths, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a given area and its size, for example, on a plot of 4 acres, the main paths and a couple of auxiliary ones will be quite enough. On a site with a larger territory, you will need more paths. You can make paths of different widths, for example, make the main ones wider, and lay out the auxiliary ones from a different material altogether; this technique will perfectly set priorities. After all the paths are drawn on the plan and correlated with each other, it is time to apply them directly to the ground.

The fact is that the visual perception of the paths may differ from the one you outlined on the plan. The marking is carried out using driven pegs or poles on which a cord or tracer is pulled, this allows you to clearly assess the width and direction of garden paths. This point is especially important if you are planning to lay a path from ready-made slabs or bricks of a certain size. In order for the contours of the path to stand out more strongly and be clearly visible, they can be sprinkled with dry lime. This will allow you to better evaluate and adjust the location of the tracks. Remember, paths are not laid for one year, and their dismantling is a problematic and troublesome task.

The ideal marking is one in which, along with paths, proposed flower beds, large trees or shrub plantings are also marked on the ground. To mark roadside plants, you can use large stones, wooden signs, or simply draw an outline with lime.

After transfer to the area and the final verdict, you, as the owner, are satisfied with everything, the time comes for more serious work. Namely, soil preparation.

So, it will be necessary to dig a trench that will serve as a base (a kind of foundation) for our path. The pit should be slightly wider than the width of the intended finished passage. After all, in order for the path to be durable and not exposed to natural factors, it must be framed on the sides with concrete or stone curbs. This will extend the service life and protect the track from destruction and deformation.

This preparatory work is a prerequisite. They should be performed when laying a path made of any material.

So, a number of works will have to be carried out that will be aimed at maintaining and improving the functionality of the track. This will prevent grass from sprouting and washing out the path. You also need to take into account that the surface of the path should have a slight slope, which will allow excess water to drain. It is also good to make a special drainage system, in other words, dig a drainage trench along the path.

Preparation and ground work:

1. the work begins with removing the top layer of soil; this must be done over the entire area of ​​the intended path. The depth of such a pit should be such that the entire fertile layer of soil is removed. In this case, it is desirable that the depth of the entire pit is the same; you can control the depth using a ruler;
2. the next stage is sprinkling the sides of the path with sand and installing boards that will help maintain the neatness and shape of the path; when using concrete curbs, it is worth considering that the width of the curb itself should be greater than the height of the trench wall. An important point is that curbs should be leveled using a level, and to ensure that they do not move, fix them with reinforcing bars. The reinforcement is installed on the inside of the curb, so that the upper (above-ground) part of the reinforcement supports the curb well;
3. If the soil is very loose and does not allow you to install the curb evenly, you must first knock down the reinforcing bars along the entire length of the path. And then install the curb and also fix it with reinforcement from the inside;
4. When the foundation pit is ready and the edges are framed with borders, the moment comes for pouring gravel or crushed stone. In this case, the main backfill material should be mixed with sand. You must try to make an even layer and make sure that there is no empty space;
5. Next, the layer is leveled and compacted. Afterwards it is moisturized. After some time, the compaction process should be repeated, so the path will be protected from landslides and deformation.

The material for backfilling the trench must be selected depending on the required thickness of the “cushion”, as well as the type of top facing material. But, regardless of the material of the top covering and the material of the “pillow,” there must be a layer of sand between them.

Types of paths for a summer cottage

Exists big choice materials for country paths. You need to choose the one that best fits into the style of the site and emphasizes its advantages. So, below are photos of garden paths made with your own hands from scrap materials. Materials can be combined, but this process requires certain knowledge and skills, due to the fact that the service life and wear resistance of materials may vary.

Brick is a universal building material that is used along with paving slabs to design paths. This path is durable and strong. And externally, this version of the garden path looks neat and aesthetically pleasing. In order for a brick path to be truly durable and last a long time, you must adhere to technology correct installation and the choice of the brick itself. For these purposes, special clinker bricks are better suited. This type of brick is made from a certain type of clay using special high temperatures. Distinctive feature clinker brick - strength. It is thanks to this property that this variety is used for laying paths and sidewalks. The brick has water-repellent and heat-resistant properties.

The main points in laying bricks as the outer covering of a path

After compacting the gravel “pillow”, it is worth pouring a fairly thick layer of sand. It should be compacted well, moistened and compacted again. Next, the layer of sand needs to be well leveled; this can be done using an ordinary wooden board. The board should be slightly longer than the width of the trench; the end side, which will be used for leveling, should be perfectly flat and smooth. Cuts are made in the board, approximately 2/3 of its width. They will serve as a limiter and allow you to create a smooth surface of sand.

After the sand layer has been leveled, you can begin laying the brick. This process should begin with the installation of side bricks along the perimeter. To do this, you will need a rubber hammer, which will allow you to drive the brick to the required depth without damaging it. The brick goes down about halfway. If the path is not framed by a curb, the side bricks must be secured with mortar. After hardening, the formwork is removed and the edges are strengthened with reinforcement. And you can’t do without gravel, which is poured along the path and compacted.

After installing the side bricks, it is worth thinking about the desired pattern; the brick can be laid on the end or on its wide part. For more durable brickwork, it is worth alternating the location. So, one row is laid parallel to the track, and the next - across. To prevent grass from growing, the gaps between the bricks should be filled with special glue, which is based on cement mortar. When working with glue, you should make sure that it does not protrude outward, this can ruin the look. finished track. The next step is to fill all the cracks with sand. This process is quite simple. The sand is simply poured onto the path from above and evenly distributed with a brush with hard bristles. Excess sand is simply swept away.

To make the brick brighter and more attractive, it can be treated with a penetrating primer. After drying, apply a layer of varnish that is used to treat stone in an outdoor environment.

A similar principle is used to lay garden paths from thick paving slabs.

Paths made of round timber

When arranging a path from wood slices, there are two options. One of which involves filling the entire area of ​​the path with round timber, and in the second, only the sides are laid out from round timber, and the middle is filled with gravel or pebbles.

This method is considered more time-consuming and complex, but the end result will please the eyes of not only the owners, but also the guests. The wood from which the path is planned to be laid must be well dried. At the same time, it is important that the wooden blocks are even and smooth, so you should cut it with a well-sharpened saw, in one smooth movement. After a sufficient number of round timbers have been cut, they should be thoroughly cleaned and processed. This is best done with a grinding machine; if you don’t have one, you can use sandpaper to work with wooden surfaces, so the process will take longer, but the quality will not deteriorate. It is recommended to use logs of different diameters so that there is as little empty space as possible in the path. So, by alternating large wooden blocks with small ones, you can achieve a denser masonry.

The height of the logs for the path should be half the height of the walls of the prepared trench (measurements should be taken when the pit is already well compacted and filled with crushed stone). So, the columns should protrude decently in height in relation to the formwork.

Wood is a material that is highly susceptible to the influence of natural factors. If treated improperly or not, the path may begin to rot, dry out, or be attacked by pests. After sanding, the logs should be thoroughly treated with a special antiseptic, only in the lower part, or in their entirety. To do this, logs from the tree are placed in a metal basin with a pre-diluted and prepared septic solution (the solution should cover about 4-5 cm of the bottom of the log). This process is quite lengthy; each log must stand in the solution for several minutes. While the wood is soaked with the solution, you can take a wide brush and paint the rest of the log. Important! Before filling the pit with round timber, the wood must dry thoroughly.

The next step is to treat the wood again and protect it from moisture. “Kuzbass varnish” is well suited for these purposes. The bottom part of the deck should be dipped in varnish for a few seconds. It is not recommended to completely cover the log due to the fact that this varnish is highly susceptible to sunlight. Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, treated wood begins to crumble and become too dry. Tar can be a good alternative to varnish. To coat wood, tar is heated and applied to the log. After hardening, a fairly strong film is formed on the surface of the logs, which will protect the wooden path from excess moisture.

Installing chocks on the base of the path

Prepared and processed logs are installed in the following way:

1. sand should be poured at the end of the path;
2. The first row is installed on a sandy base. Logs for the initial row should be selected with the same diameter;
3. the space between the chocks is filled with sand, the level of sand should correspond to the level of the side formwork;
4. the second row of logs is installed. Here the round timbers should be selected in such a way that they are in maximum contact with the first row, and there is as little free space as possible;
5. It’s worth filling the voids between the logs with sand;
6. further technology for laying chocks consists of repeating these actions;
7. before installing the last row, the crushed stone base must also be sprinkled with sand and only the logs must be placed on it;
8. At the final stage, the edges of the path are spilled with sand and compacted.

This option - good example how you can make it inexpensively at your dacha with your own hands - the photo shows examples of the design of such paths.

Wooden paths are also popular, in which logs act as side walls, and the internal space is filled with gravel or simple crushed stone. This is a more economical option that is installed using simpler technology. IN in this case, the same technology for preparing and processing wood must be followed as in the previous version. The foundation of the track is carried out according to the rules described earlier.

So, after the base of the path has been dug and prepared, and the wood has been processed and ready for further work, the moment of forming the sand “cushion” comes. To do this, a layer of sand is poured onto the crushed stone and compacted well; if necessary, the sand can be moistened. Logs are installed along the extreme boundaries of the path. Here, too, it is worth making sure that the lumps are in close contact with each other. After logs are installed along the edges of the path, their base is covered with sand and compacted. The next step is to lay geotextiles over the entire area of ​​the path between the stumps. This is a special fabric, made from a special type of fiber, which will help improve the drainage of the finished path and prevent plant germination. The edges of the fabric should be carefully wrapped around the walls of the logs.

Next, the moment comes to fill the path with gravel; for this, gravel or crushed stone is filled in small parts and evenly distributed over the entire area. If necessary, gravel is added until its level is equal to the ground level on the site. When the path is ready, you can coat the logs with paint for external work, this is relevant in cases where the stumps have turned out different shades. You don’t have to do this, so the path will have a natural look.

Paths made of fine gravel framed by large blocks of stones look unusual. The laying technology is the same as in the case of a border made of wooden blocks, only instead of wood there is stone.

The wood for constructing this type of path must be properly processed. It is better to purchase a ready-made board for the attic. So, the size of the boards will be the same, and you can start installation right away. Combined paths in which wood alternates with small pebbles look impressive. In this case, the color of the stones can be monochromatic, or it can be multi-colored, assorted. The base is prepared using the technology already described. A layer of sand is poured onto the crushed stone and compacted thoroughly. Boards are placed on top, at equal distances from each other, and the space between them is filled with pebbles. The beauty of these paths is that they do not require a border or framing. Such paths look interesting if you simply sprinkle them with pebbles on both sides and lightly compact them.

A track option that uses only a wooden board is good for use on lawns. In this case, the path made of boards can be decorated with a border made of wooden blocks or something similar can be made decorative fence on the edge.

Among lovers of aesthetics and natural materials Paths made of smooth stone, which can be laid in the form of mosaics and all kinds of patterns, are rapidly gaining popularity. Such a path will decorate any garden area. In fact, this is a well-forgotten old thing; it was on this principle that not only paths in courtyards were previously laid, but also roads were made. Of course, this process is slightly modified and adapted to the realities of our time. Such paths will look pompous in areas with a large territory and harmonize well with various sculptures or fountains. The practicality and strength of the path will depend on the selected stone and auxiliary materials. The only thing worth thinking about is that these kinds of paths turn out to be quite slippery when wet. Therefore, it is worth choosing in advance a special mixture for treatment, which is applied to the finished path and reduces slipping.

Interesting and beautiful pattern obtained by using Altai river stone. This stone has a characteristic color that can vary from light blue to dark gray. To arrange a garden path in this style, you will need:

• smooth stones of different sizes but similar shapes;
• sand;
• a special hammer designed for working with stone (usually a rubber or wooden hammer);
• cement mortar;
• sponge;
• level.

Preparatory work begins with preparing the base of the path. This is done according to the standard scheme. Next, you need to sort out the stones and arrange them by size. It is better not to use stones with obvious shape defects or large chips. If the defects are minor, then a path can be laid out of such stones, but the stone should be placed so that the defect is not visible.

Most often, stone paths are laid out in patterns that resemble curls. In order for the finished path to have an attractive appearance, it is worth preparing a sketch according to which the stone will be laid. This sketch is transferred to the base of the track. It is convenient to do this with a solution of lime or regular paint. For further work When laying stone, you need to mix sand and cement (proportion 3:1). Gradually adding water and mixing well, you need to achieve a thick consistency that holds its shape well. The main lines of the sketch are laid out from the prepared mixture.

The stones are laid out on the solution and slightly pressed into it. This creates a curl of stone that is part of a larger pattern. The stone laying must be adjusted to the level; if the mortar has already set a little and it is difficult to do this with your hands, then a hammer is used, with which the stones are gradually knocked to the same level. There should be no areas in the path where at least one stone goes beyond the general level. According to this principle, the entire area of ​​the path is filled, oval stones are placed on the edge, forming the main curls; a round stone can be placed inside the curl. Experts recommend laying out the main large curls first, and only then filling the cavity between them with smaller patterns or just stones.

So, while playing color scheme and the shape of the stones can achieve authenticity and attractiveness of the path. An important point is to moisten the path; this must be done immediately after laying out the pattern. The fact is that during the drying process, the solution tends to release moisture; if the masonry is not moistened in time, the path may crack, deform, or simply fall apart without gaining strength. You can moisturize with a spray bottle or a regular hose with a shower head. In addition to practicality, this procedure also has an aesthetic aspect, thus, excess solution residues are washed off from the stones. If immediately after forming the pattern, the path should simply be moistened, then after a few hours it is recommended to thoroughly wet the entire area of ​​the path.

If the technology of laying a stone garden path using mortar seems labor-intensive and complicated to you, then you can use several simplified version. In this case, the stones are laid out on a sand “cushion”, without the use of cement. To do this, it is necessary to compact and moisten the sand layer well. Apply a pattern of the pattern to it. In order to prevent your path from falling apart while laying out the pattern, you need to install auxiliary wooden partitions. The pattern needs to be laid out on small area, step by step. When the entire path is filled with curls, the wooden supports can be removed and stones of suitable size can be immediately placed in their place.

The process of laying stone is not much different from that described earlier. So, a layer of sand is placed on a crushed stone base, moistened and compacted. Next, limiting spacers are installed, the cavity between the spacers is filled with well-moistened sand and leveled with a yardstick. It is better to place several stones at once. At the same time, bringing them under the level and compacting them with a hammer. As the sand dries, it needs to be further moistened. The cavity between the stones on the finished pattern is filled with sand, and the excess is removed with a brush. The entire path needs to be well moistened. After waiting for it to dry, the procedure of filling the cracks with sand and moistening it should be repeated several times. This will ensure the strength and safety of the finished path. It is better to repeat such manipulations over several days; at the final stage, the surface of the stones is cleaned with a damp sponge.

Such a garden path should be framed by a border. This should be done after the formwork has completely dried and dismantled. Stones can be used as a material for the border. big size or ordinary bricks.

Strange, but very practical option arranging a path at the dacha with your own hands, from scrap materials. If you approach this process with a creative spirit, you can create a unique, colorful and amazing path. It is difficult to imagine a more accessible and readily available type of material. True, the process of preparing and collecting plastic bottle caps can be long, but the waiting time is fully compensated by the appearance of the finished track. It is also worth thinking carefully about the sketch according to which the mosaic will be formed. The big advantage of installing this type of track is that the track can be assembled in parts. So, having collected a sufficient number of covers, you can collect independent fragments of the track, which will then be connected together.

To keep the lids the required form, they need to be connected to each other. For these purposes, it is better to use an awl and a simple fishing line. With the help of these tools, it is possible to firmly and accurately connect all the fragments. In order for the holes in the lids to be required size and were less noticeable, before piercing, the awl must be heated over an open fire. It is more practical to use an awl with wooden base, so you do not risk getting a thermal burn. Holes are punched in the side of the lid, approximately in the middle. A fishing line is inserted into the holes made. Thus, the lids are assembled into a certain pattern, and then the patterns form the canvas for the path.

The process takes for a long time, and the work is quite painstaking and requires perseverance. But there is a huge plus that outweighs all the shortcomings: this type of path does not require extensive preparatory work. There is no need to dig a pit and fill it with crushed stone. It is enough to simply clear the surface of the soil from plants; you can lay a special fabric that will not allow weeds to grow in the cavity of the path. You can also treat the topsoil with a weed killer, this could be Tornado or Roundup. The already laid path of lids should be lightly tapped over the entire area with a hammer.

You can extend the service life and add practicality to the finished path by using curb fencing. This is a very simple and quick process. The top layer of soil is removed from both sides of the path. There is no need to dig deep; a depth corresponding to 2/3 of the height or width (depending on the laying method) of the brick is sufficient. The dug trench is compacted and filled with sand, which, in turn, is moistened. The brick can be placed on a corner, vertically or on an edge. In this case, you need to thoroughly drive the brick into the sand base. The gaps between the bricks in the curb are filled with wet sand.

Concrete paths can be found on every third suburban area. This is explained by the fact that these paths have a long service life, are easy to install and do not stand out much from the general background of the site, which allows us to call them universal paths for a garden or dacha.

In order to equip a concrete path, you need to carry out preparatory work earthworks. As already described above, measures are being taken to mark the soil and dig a pit. Curbs and formwork are installed and secured with reinforcement. The first layer of the “pillow” is sand. It should be compacted, moistened, and leveled. A layer of crushed stone is placed on top of the sand. Everything is compacted and leveled. For greater strength, it is recommended to place reinforcing mesh on top of the crushed stone layer. Next, there are two options for laying concrete. The first one, which assumes a flat surface of the finished path. In this case, concrete is simply poured into the formwork and leveled. The poured surface should be strengthened; to do this, pour it on top of the path. a large number of dry cement, it should be immediately ground using grout. A ready-made topping mixture, which can be purchased in stores, is also suitable for these purposes. building materials.

The second option assumes the presence of a pattern on the surface of the finished track. The procedure for pouring concrete in this case occurs in two stages. First, the base of the path is poured only halfway, and you should ensure that the height of the concrete layer is the same and the surface is as smooth as possible. After the concrete has set a little, special forms are installed on it. When using such forms, the surface is obtained simulating a small relief of stone or paving slabs. The form is filled with concrete solution and left for a couple of days. After the concrete has dried, the form is removed and the manipulation is repeated. You can use several forms with the same pattern at once, this will speed up the process. Using this technique of pouring concrete, you can not only design a garden path, but also make such a covering in a summer gazebo or in a garage.

An interesting and unusual alternative to concrete and brick paths are modular plastic paths. Such paths are laid only during the summer season. As a rule, they are made of plastic plates that are connected to each other. The beauty of such a path is that before laying it you do not need to carry out any preparatory activities. Such a path can easily be moved to another place in one season. This is a kind of constructor that allows you to create paths of any width and shape. Fasteners firmly fix the parts. The main advantage of tracks made from such panels is their long service life, as well as the ability to withstand heavy loads and a surface that prevents slipping.

In the production of track parts, heat-resistant types of plastic are used. Thus, the appearance and practicality of the elements of the path are not affected by either severe frost or strong heating by the sun's rays. Another question is winter period There is simply no point in leaving a path on the site. After all, it is quite easy to assemble and disassemble. When assembled, the track elements take up little space and can be stored in outbuildings.

Manufacturers also offer several options for tile sizes. Most elements have special holes that prevent water from accumulating on their surface. This track option is convenient if it is not possible to lay a track with a base; it is also good to use as auxiliary passages.

This type of garden covering is an innovation in garden design. It is used both to form paths and as flooring in certain areas of the site. The material is expensive, so before purchasing it is worth thinking carefully about the location and calculating the area where you plan to lay it. Looks great on the terrace, balcony, area around the pool or playground. This coating is mounted on a prepared “cushion” of gravel or small crushed stone.

The wood that is used to produce this coating is well processed and impregnated. Garden parquet is not suitable harmful effect environment. So, you can be sure that the coating will not fade under the influence of bright sunlight, will not swell from excess moisture, and the structure of the parquet will not disintegrate under the influence of severe frosts. Except wooden material, plastic is often used, which imitates the structure and pattern of wood. This type of parquet is less expensive, but also less practical. The service life of plastic analogues is much shorter.

Arranging garden paths is an important point in organizing the space of a site. Which requires a lot of time and costs. It is important not only to determine the location of the paths, but also to choose the most suitable material. In this process, it is worth not only taking into account personal preferences, but also visually imagining the appearance of the finished path and its compliance with the general style of the site.

In order to make a garden path with your own hands, you do not need knowledge of special technologies. This process will be easy for every owner of a summer cottage to master. The main thing is to adhere to certain rules and strictly follow the advice described above. By arranging a country path, you can show imagination and originality. This can manifest itself in playing with colors, shapes, relief and structure of the path. This article provides examples of the main paths for a do-it-yourself dacha. But, remember that any option can be adapted specifically to your site. So, by combining natural materials or playing on their contrasts, you can create a unique path.

The path leading to the main entrance and the entrance for the car are usually not laid along the shortest path. This solution is justified for short distances and routes along the edge of the site (for example, from the back door of a house to a barn). In other cases, the arrow-straight road gives the impression of being tense and dominant. To avoid this effect, it is better to soften the outlines, giving them a soft wave-like shape.

In small areas, it is better to abandon strict straight paths altogether. Even a slight bend will visually increase the area of ​​your property. The boundaries of the narrow plot will be expanded by walking paths located diagonally or with gentle turns.

Our advice

Avoid excessively winding paths, especially on the way to outbuildings. Unjustified turns cause legitimate irritation. In this case, most people will not follow the path, but will simply take a shortcut.

How wide should garden paths be in the country?

Once the routes are outlined, the width of each path is determined.

Paths of secondary importance - to booms, outbuildings, etc. are narrower, 60-90 cm. In this case, the width of the path should be 40 cm greater than the track of a garden cart for transporting goods. Width 30-50 cm - for paths in “wild” corners of the garden and vegetable garden.

Remember that narrow paths cannot be framed with lush flower beds (see article), it is better to limit yourself to a lawn on one side.

Maintain paths in garden style!

The configuration of the paths should correspond to the overall style of the garden.

A landscape garden requires smoothly turning and intricately “snake” paths, areas of irregular spreading shape.

The paths are made the same width throughout, or at the approaches to platforms, stairs, and buildings they are gradually widened. Paths in soda of regular construction are laid exclusively “along a ruler”.

In this case, the road tapes run parallel and perpendicular to each other, the fence and the walls of buildings. They also use ray and circular schemes and symmetry.

Correct garden paths in the country and their configuration:

• uses land sparingly (every extra 10 cm of path width “eats up” the usable area of ​​the garden);
• provides the shortest connections between different areas of the garden and outbuildings;
• allows you to care for plants without any problems;
• will give you the opportunity to admire your garden and flower beds from the most advantageous angle.

Expand narrow and reduce the area

Bark paths

Cutting down old trees and shrubs, trimming undergrowth and removing woody shoots provide a constant supply of material for paths.

Garden shredders plant waste give branches a second life. Chopped wood chips are commonly used as mulching material, but they are also great for filling paths. To prevent cuttings of branches from scattering across the lawn, where they can get under the blades of a lawn mower, 15 cm of soil is removed for the path. The bed is covered with crushed wood pulp, not reaching the edge 2-3 cm.

This coating is hard enough to withstand garden wheelbarrow with load and even rental of well rings and concrete pipes. But barefoot walking on branches is a harsh foot massage with the risk of injury. To transform a temporary structure into a permanent path, a trench 20 cm deep is dug, and the temporary backfill is removed along with part of the fertile soil underneath.

Light paths made from waste

In order for our dacha plot to be convenient for life and recreation, we need not only beautiful lawns, but also comfortable paved paths and areas

Network of paths connecting various buildings on the site, should be planned so that it is convenient for us to move around the site without stumbling, without getting our shoes dirty and without trampling the lawn. And the choice of materials for paving paths, driveways and functional areas of the yard must be approached with all responsibility.

They must be durable, moisture- and frost-resistant, non-slip and easy to maintain.

Stone pavement

The traditional material for paving paths is, of course, stone. Natural stone always looks advantageous on any site - be it a patio or a path in a formal garden.

Stone of various textures can be used for paving - chipped and sawn, paving stones and flagstone, as well as their combinations. Chopped paving stones look very impressive. But walking on it is inconvenient, and for garden equipment it poses a serious obstacle. Therefore, it is better to lay out pedestrian areas, and especially access roads, with paving stones with a flat surface or flagstone, and use crushed stone and cobblestones as decorative inclusions in those places that can be easily bypassed.

Miracle ceramics

One of the oldest, time-tested materials for paving paths is clinker brick. It differs from ordinary brick not only in its more attractive appearance, but also in its smaller thickness, but at the same time in its exceptional strength, moisture resistance and durability. And it doesn’t care about severe frosts. Clinker also perfectly resists mechanical stress 8 including significant shock loads. Clinker paving stones can be used in places with intense load on the road surface - for example, at the entrance to a site, in front of a garage. The clinker covering looks very beautiful both in front of the house and, of course, in the garden. The only drawback of clinker is its high price.

Decorative concrete

The most popular among owners of suburban areas are paving stones and concrete paving slabs. This is facilitated by their low compared to natural stone price. But besides the price, concrete paving stones have other advantages. Firstly, this material allows you to reproduce any texture, pattern and color.

Secondly, the existing systematization of geometric shapes and linear dimensions of concrete paving stones and paving slabs makes it possible to easily combine their various types.

According to production technology, concrete slabs are divided into vibration-pressed and vibration-cast. On driveways it is better to use vibration-cast tiles that are durable and resistant to high loads, and on walking paths - slightly less durable, but more decorative vibro-pressed tiles.

Terrace floor

To the choice of flooring for open terraces and entrance groups You also need to approach it responsibly. After all, it must withstand changes in temperature and humidity, frost and sun, be non-slip, wear-resistant and, of course, beautiful. The ideal material for cladding steps and the floor of porches and terraces is clinker tiles. In addition to extraordinary strength, water resistance and frost resistance, it also has a beautiful appearance.

An excellent alternative to clinker tiles when laying flooring on the terrace and porch is porcelain stoneware.

The material combines high strength with exceptionally low porosity, frost resistance with inertness to chemical influences. As for the service life, porcelain tiles are not demolished at all. In terms of abrasion resistance and hardness, it is on a par with quarry granite, quartz and even corundum.

A very practical solution for terraces is the use of composite decking. A composite consisting of wood flour and polymer binders allows you to create a strong, durable and lightweight material that has all the advantages of natural wood, but without its disadvantages. Polymer decking does not collapse under the influence of moisture, does not fade in the sun, has high mechanical strength and resistance to temperature changes.

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