Pinching tomatoes - when and why. Read: Do you need to pinch tomato seedlings? How to perform the procedure correctly?

Pinching seedlings or stepsoning – forming bushes by removing part of the stem/several leaves.

Why pinch tomato seedlings?: direct the growth of shoots, activate metabolic processes, accelerate fruiting.

It seems barbaric to remove only recently formed leaves of seedlings, but pinching is necessary for tomatoes to speed up development. You will see that seedlings take shape more readily and form ovaries faster. The effectiveness of pinching is determined by the type of tomatoes.

Type of tomatoes and pinching:

• Superdeterminate (dwarf);
• Determinate (short);
• Indeterminate;

Pinching is important for indeterminate or tall varieties, as it is necessary to spur their development and direct the shoots. High varieties of tomatoes gain green mass faster, but may not have time to redistribute nutrients and partially ripen.

How do tomatoes develop?

Determinate type of tomatoes forms 4 leaves on the main stem, where the first clusters are formed. The next ones are after 3 sheets. It turns out that the brushes weigh down the main shoot. The purpose of pinching is to clear space for growth and stimulate the formation of buds for the formation of stepsons in order to redistribute the weight of the hands.

Indeterminate varieties form the first brush from the 9th sheet, continuing to gradually increase the subsequent ones. Pinching, as noted above, accelerates development without loss of fruiting, due to which the ovaries form faster.

Thus, pinching prevents determinate varieties from ripening ahead of schedule and accelerates the development of indeterminate varieties.

How to pinch tomato seedlings?

Keep pruning shears or a knife on hand, soaked in alcohol and dried with a napkin, or wear gloves and remove leaves by hand.

How to pinch tomatoes:

1. Determine the part of the stem from which you will remove the leaves.
2. Pinch the shoot above the leaf with your fingers.
3. Remove the tomato leaf.
4. Treat with fungicide.
5. After 10 days, spray with potassium or phosphorus.

Using a tool, make a precise cut over the branch or leaf, forming the top and sides.

Pinching the roots of tomato seedlings

Root removal procedure tomato seedlings after digging is also called pinching. To do this, the seedling is dug up, cleared of remaining soil and the central root is trimmed. Not every summer resident uses this technique, but it is up to you to decide whether to stimulate the development of tomato roots or not.

What does root pinching do:

• Acceleration of branching.
• Extension of lateral roots.
• Hardening off seedlings.
• Preparation for transplanting into the ground.

Caring for tomatoes after pinching

Once pinching is done, introduce moderate maintenance, which includes alternating watering and drying the soil mixture. To restore, it is necessary to prevent fluctuations in temperature and air humidity, create a flow of diffused light onto the seedlings and prevent exposure to drafts. If you have problems:

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When to pick tomato seedlings?

Do you want to grow a good tomato crop on your plot? If your plans do not include obtaining from plants a continuous forest of leaves and pea fruits, then all summer you should be engaged in the formation of plants. To do this, you need to learn how to pinch (stepchild) bushes correctly.

Instructions

• Decide how many stems your tomato plant will have. This depends on the type of seedling (tall or limited in height) and where it is grown. In greenhouses, plants are most often formed into 1 stem. This formation reduces the risk of developing a terrible tomato disease - late blight. In open ground conditions, you can allow the bushes to grow into 2-3 stems.
• A few days after planting the seedlings, carefully inspect each tomato bush. Remove all stepchildren ( side shoots, forming in the leaf axils) in tall (interdeterminate) forms. For determinate (limited in height) tomato varieties, leave one shoot under the first flower cluster and two above it.
• Carry out pinching every 5-7 days. Check your plants very carefully. The unnoticed stepson grows quickly and draws all the strength of the bush onto itself, slowing down the ripening of already set fruits on other stems.
• In mid-summer, to get an early harvest, pinch the top growth point on selected tall bushes - cut off the top of the main stem, leaving 2-3 leaves after the 6th flower cluster. On determinate varieties there should be 2-3 flower clusters on each stem. If more flower clusters are left, you may end up with a lot of unripe and small fruits.

KakProsto.ru

Pinching tomatoes

Pinching is the process of removing the top of a plant above with small scissors or fingers. top sheet. The purpose of pinching is to redirect energy towards flowering and fruit formation.

Pinching tomatoes is carried out for faster ripening of the fruit, since without this method, tomatoes can remain green for a long time.

Pinching can be done on cucumbers, tomatoes, peas, melons, etc. Pinching tomatoes is done at high grades so that the fruits ripen before the cold weather. Tomatoes should be formed into one stem, leaving seven or eight flower clusters. They also leave 1 or 2 stepsons to get an additional harvest. All other stepsons at the roots and from the axils of the leaves are removed.

It is better to choose the morning time, then the stepsons break off more easily. To prevent viral infection of other plants, the stepsons are not cut off, but broken off to the side. Leaves at the very roots and soil, unnecessary stepsons must be removed to prevent various diseases of tomatoes. You need to make sure that the stem at the root is dry, that light gets there, and that there is air circulation.

Tomato fruits develop on flower stems that grow between nodes from the main stem. You cannot cut them off, as they produce tomatoes. It is necessary to preserve the emerging tomato flowers. New shoots growing in the internodes, as well as old leaves, are removed.

Proper care of tomatoes will bring you juicy and tasty fruits. A good harvest is an indicator of a real and experienced gardener. Pinching is one of the most common ways to care for tomatoes.

OgorodSadovod.com

Pinching cucumbers increases yield

Gartering and pinching cucumbers

Cucumbers growing in beds that have “female” flowers need to be tied up. It should be noted that the yield does not directly depend on the configuration of the bush on which the fruits are set. The most important point is high-quality, complete lighting. It is best to give preference climbing plants, which are not able to grow laterally. After tying is done, the ovary can be seen on the stem for the first time. At this time, you should start pinching cucumbers, thanks to which you can avoid improper development of the plant. First, the very first few shoots are pinched off, after which, above the fourth or third fruit set, the shoots on the sides need to be pinched off. This creates an attractive vine capable of producing the best fruits. After the third shoots grow, they must be pinched off above the third or second leaves. In this case, you need to be guided by the strength of the bush - the more powerful it is, the greater the number of fruits should be left.

Thinning cucumbers

Plants to be pollinated bear fruit precisely on branching branches, so it is important to try to ensure the earliest appearance of such branches for fruit. The seedlings must be pinched exactly above the fourth (or third) leaf immediately after its first appearance. The seedlings should be insulated with manure and warmed properly so that several branches appear. After this, branches with “female” flowering appear for the first time. Excessively dense branches should be thinned using a method such as pinching cucumbers above the surface of the fifth or sixth fruit. It is recommended to remove shoots in advance that will not bear any fruit. This ensures proper growth, development and nutrition of fruit-bearing plants.

Sowing cucumbers

If you need to grow cucumbers on an open soil surface, it is best to sow seeds that need to be germinated in advance. With mild favorable climatic conditions sowing should be done in early May. If weather conditions do not allow early sowing, it should be postponed to avoid plant death. In unfavorable climates, it is best to sow seeds no earlier than the beginning of June. At the same time, they are laid to a certain depth of approximately two centimeters. It is necessary to strictly monitor the condition of the bushes and, if necessary, thin them out. For dense bushes, pinching cucumbers using a known method is used.

Fertilizers

Warming seedlings in open ground will speed up their growth. Suitable for this purpose glass jar, which is convenient to cover each plant. Stems that grow in open soil tend to spread on the surface of the ground. First of all, excess shoots above the sixth (or fifth) leaf are plucked out, which significantly strengthens the branches. In order for the highest quality fruits to grow, you should regularly water and fertilize the soil on which the cucumbers grow. For this purpose, various types of fertilizers are used, including liquid ones. It is necessary to leave both “male” and “female” flowers on the plants.

Mulch

Permanent and correct pinching cucumbers (photo in the article) will make it possible to get large, properly developed fruits. Mulching is used to eliminate weeds, as well as to increase soil temperature. In this case, moisture is also retained better. Mulch allows cucumbers to avoid putrefaction, since their contact with other vegetation is excluded. Pickling cucumbers have small in size, have a length of up to ten centimeters. They are best grown in the usual way in open soil. Usually shoots above the sixth or fifth leaf are removed. Cucumbers are also pinched in a greenhouse, which makes it possible to quickly grow the largest and highest quality fruits.

syl.ru

Tomato seedlings

Gerard Boonekamp Groenten en Fruit 38/2010

Translation by Marite Gailite

Today in greenhouses post-Soviet space Grafted tomato seedlings are used very little; often the first attempts end in disappointment. At the same time, not only in the West, but also in Poland, grafted tomatoes are grown more and more. There are three main types of grafted seedlings: 1:1 grafting, grafted and pinched above the second true leaf, grafted and pinched above the cotyledons. In the first case, the result is a plant with one top, in both of the latter cases - with two tops. Let us remind you that grafted seedlings are usually produced by specialized seedling enterprises; vegetable growers themselves do not do this.

Eric de Winter, a specialist at the consulting firm Lycopersicon, talks about the pros and cons of each type of grafted seedling.

There is a set of standard tips on choosing the type of grafted seedlings. Thus, a 1:1 grafting is used for growing medium-sized tomatoes, the fruits of which are harvested separately, and grafted-pinched ones are used for raceme varieties, since this makes it possible to increase harvests. In addition, for photoculture, a 1:1 grafting is also chosen, since the life and fruiting life of the plant is significantly increased. Most growers choose to pinch over the second leaf. However, as each spring approaches, discussions begin about which type of seedlings are best and why. The placement of the brushes and the quality of the tomatoes when pinched above the second leaf often leaves much to be desired. Therefore, some people prefer pinching over cotyledons, but even in this case there are pitfalls.

Benefits of 1:1 vaccination

• With high doses of CO 2 and the additional light created by new brands of glass, a 1:1 grafting provides the best vigor.
• With greater thickening.
• For example, if seedlings are planted 75 cm apart in a row and the second top is later released, moving to a distance of 37.5 cm, the 1:1 seedling selection is generally accepted standard. At the same time, plants provide the greatest growth force in May-June (in Holland), when the harvest load is maximum. Wherein best choice The rootstock is most often considered Maxifort, as the most vigorous.
• With pepino mosaic.
• With weak growth vigor, infection of plants with pepino mosaic can cause very serious consequences. In cool summers and when infection with pepino mosaic is low, planting pinched seedlings every 75 cm gives good results. However, the risk is quite high.
• With a generative rootstock.
• The choice of the main variety (scion) and rootstock is very important, therefore, with generative rootstocks, seedlings begin to be planted from 66-70 cm in the row and additional tips are never produced above the first or second cluster on all plants at the same time.
• For extra harvest. It's about not that the beginning of cultivation should be excessively vegetative, but about the possibility of speeding up cultivation as much as possible. This makes it possible to grow tomatoes in more extreme conditions with a higher DIF (difference between day and night temperatures) when daytime temperatures increase greatly.
• With early disembarkation without additional lighting. At very early stages sowing when flowering before Christmas (December 25), some growers choose 1:1 seedlings. These plants always stay longer in the greenhouse (the rotation period is longer) and this choice is obviously justified, since it is made from year to year. Such plants require more work care
• Based on the shape of the hand and the fruit. When grafting 1:1, the shape of the hand is always good, regular in shape. In grafted or pinched plants, the fruits in the cluster are often less aligned. This, of course, does not happen by itself and depends on the supplementary lighting regime during the period of growing seedlings. Seedling producers are working to obtain a high-quality first bunch and Lately the brushes have improved significantly.

Disadvantages of 1:1 seedlings

• Early harvest is delayed, usually when planted after 75 cm, but often when planted after 50 cm. Despite the early setting of clusters that hang like a cloud from additional stems, additional clusters delay the onset of ripening. The gap in overall yield from grafted and pinched plants evens out by the end of May-June.
• The cost of purchasing seedlings when planted after 75 cm is 5-10% higher than for pinched seedlings, and when planted after 50 cm, the difference in costs is even more significant.

Advantages of pinching over a second sheet

Pinching over the second leaf is most popular in Holland and Belgium due to the following advantages.

• Higher early production. Pinched plants generally give a higher early harvest. In 2010, the difference was especially noticeable due to higher prices for early products.
• Lower costs for seedlings. Costs for seedlings are significantly lower, since the number of stems is initially 2 times higher.
• Large leaf mass compared to pinching above the cotyledons.
• A beautiful, strong plant.
• Less tendency to split the hand.
• Seedling growers are increasingly able to produce plants of the desired quality.

Disadvantages of pinching over the second sheet

• The first brush is often irregular in shape.
• Some varieties often have up to 5 leaves between the first and second cluster.
• Requires management of the growth force, but is usually quite good. It is noteworthy that in 2010, with light culture, good results were obtained on grafted and pinched seedlings of even such a large-fruited hybrid as Comet. Until now, the standard for this variety has been a 1:1 grafting.

Advantages of pinching over cotyledons

In Holland and Belgium, pinching the cotyledons is unpopular and for good reason. However, there are also advantages:

• Higher early production.
• Low costs for seedlings.
• Higher location of the first brush, usually above the 7-9 leaf. As a result, the second raceme is usually well developed and is laid 3 leaves above the first. Thanks to this, a good vegetative-generative balance is achieved earlier.
• The period of caring for the plant is shorter.
• Stable plant growth.

• The development of stems is more uneven, especially during periods of low light.
• The stems thicken worse.
• The seedling grower must pot the plants differently to ensure the plants are properly tied to the trellis.
• The first plant staking requires more care to properly place the stems in the row.
• Growing seedlings lasts 4-5 days longer.
• The first early harvest is obtained later due to the higher location of the first cluster.
• Extended rotation produces weaker and less productive plants in Holland and Belgium. However, in France both vigor and yield are quite good due to better light conditions after transplanting.

Wide selection of rootstocks

For a long time, the word “rootstock” was synonymous with the hybrid Beaufort or the more vigorous Maxifort. IN last years Both the supply and use of other rootstocks increased significantly. It's not just about vigor, but also the best combination of rootstock and scion varieties, the type of grafted seedlings and the length of rotation. Especially great importance it has in initial period growing in late autumn, when a correctly selected rootstock helps to quickly bring the plant into balance, reducing its generative capacity. A more balanced plant during the initial growing period reduces the risk of gray mold spreading. For autumn turnover, enhanced generative development in the second half of summer (after the longest day) helps prevent excessive vegetative growth in autumn.

In 2010, at the Test Center in Hoogstraten (Belgium), hybrids Tricia, Soupless and Dirk were compared on the rootstocks Maxifort, Optifort (Monsanto), Emperador and Stallone (Rijk Zwaan) and Arnold (Syngenta). The difference in yield (4% within one variety) for the period from May to August was insignificant and did not allow us to identify best combinations varieties. In terms of growth strength, Arnold was the weakest, but for the hybrid Dirk turned out to be the most suitable for obtaining an early harvest and a larger mass of fruit in the autumn rotation. Hybrid Tricia gives better results on more vigorous rootstocks.

GreenHouses.ru

Pinching a tomato, how to pinch tomatoes

Tomato pinching is the removal of side shoots growing from the axils of the leaves, that is, stepsons. Step-sonning is very important for obtaining good harvest excellent tomatoes, this procedure is simply called pinching tomatoes.

Before you remove the stepson, you need to make sure that it is he and not a leaf. To do this, you need to take a close look at the plant, since the side shoot does not grow on a bare stem. First, the leaf grows, and after it, a stepson appears from the leaf axil (between the leaf and the main stem). The stepson is constantly growing, and then new leaves and new shoots grow on it, that is, stepchildren of the second order. As a result, the bush begins to branch. Read how to plant tomatoes here.

It is especially important to remove side shoots from tall (indeterminate) tomato varieties.

Tall tomato varieties have a number of advantages over low-growing or determinate varieties.

Firstly, such varieties give greater yield.

Secondly, provided proper agricultural technology, tall varieties less susceptible to various diseases, including late blight.

Thirdly, indeterminate varieties bear fruit from the beginning of July until autumn frosts, while determinate varieties ripen almost simultaneously.

Fourthly, they are easier to pinch.

And fifthly, it is more convenient to work with tall plants, since you do not need to constantly bend over or stand in an awkward position.

How to pinch tomatoes correctly

It is important to pinch tomatoes on time and do it correctly. Thus, in tall tomatoes, the first fruit cluster is formed after the sixth to eighth (sometimes tenth) leaf. And from the axil of each leaf an additional shoot appears. Thus, before the first fruit cluster on a tomato there are six to eight, or even ten additional branches that require nutrition. And since the stepsons grow lower than the fruit cluster, they get more food. Next, the fruit cluster is laid through the leaf, and the side shoot is placed near each leaf.

If you don’t take any measures, you will end up with a lush bush with small fruits. But tall varieties are famous precisely for their large fruit and high yield. To achieve such success, you need to start planting tomatoes already during the flowering of the first cluster. This is a rather labor-intensive process, so it is advisable to combine it with the first garter of the tomato to the supports. Removing the stepsons cannot be done mechanically, so before you get to work, decide how many stems you will leave on the plant.

Growing indeterminate tomato varieties

It is advisable to form one stem from tall tomatoes, that is, you need to pluck all the stepsons from the main stem. Moreover, you need to leave a “stump” about a centimeter long from the stepson, so that a new shoot does not grow in this place very soon. A low-growing plant can be formed into two stems. To do this, you need to remove all the shoots up to the first flower cluster, leaving one shoot above the first flower cluster. All the stepsons on top need to be pinched.

On some varieties of tomatoes, stepsons grow even before the plant throws out the first flower cluster. As a result, the plant’s energy is spent not on the formation of fruits, but on increasing green mass. If your goal is to get a good harvest, and not to garden the garden, then you definitely need to plant your tomatoes.

Pinching the main stem is done on tall plants so that the set fruits have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather.

Tall plants form into a single stem, leaving several flower clusters (usually seven or eight). If you leave one or two stepsons, you can get four more flower clusters, that is, an additional harvest. All other side shoots from the leaf axils and at the roots must be removed.

It is advisable to break off the stepsons in the morning, since at this time they are easily separated. In order to prevent the plant from becoming infected with viral diseases, the stepson should not be cut off, but broken off, and so that the juice of the plant does not get on your hands (the infection is transferred from one plant to another through the hands).

It must be remembered that the stepson develops most intensively, growing above the first flower cluster. A flower cluster is very quickly formed on this shoot.

To prevent disease, remove all lower leaves plants that come into contact with the ground, as well as all unnecessary stepsons as they grow. It’s good when the plant stem below is dry, light falls on it, and air circulates freely around it.

Growing determinate varieties of tomatoes and hybrids

In order to get an early harvest on a low-growing plant that has more inflorescences on the main stem, you need to form one stem and leave two or three inflorescences. After the last inflorescence, we save a few leaves and pinch off the growing point. You don’t have to pinch the growing point, but in this case the fruits on all inflorescences may not have time to ripen.

If you form a plant into two stems, leaving four to eight inflorescences, then the fruits will come to the bush. Low growing plants and hybrids with three stems, as a rule, are not formed.

If you have formed your plant into one or two stems with two to four inflorescences, then tomatoes will begin to appear on it already in early July, that is, two weeks earlier than if you had done without pinching.

With this planting scheme, the harvest will be smaller, but the number of fruits from one branch will be greater. To prevent the productivity of tomatoes per unit area from being affected, the plants can be planted closer together, for example, at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other.

Some varieties of tomatoes, such as Alaska, Watermelon, Red Banana, White Naliv 241, Betta, Boni MM, Gavroche, Raketa, Yamal, can be grown in open ground and without pinching, since they manage to yield most of the harvest in a short summer. The yield of these varieties depends solely on weather conditions. The more warm and sunny days there are, the more abundant and better the harvest will be.

Pinching various varieties and hybrids of tomatoes in a greenhouse

In greenhouses, tomatoes are planted in order to increase fruiting time and obtain maximum yield per unit area. If you need to harvest in short term, then choose low-growing varieties of tomatoes, and if you have the opportunity to grow tomatoes for four to five months, then you can take semi-determinate varieties that limit growth after eight to ten inflorescences on the main stem and indeterminate ones.

U low growing variety you need to leave one stem and one shoot to continue under the first inflorescence. This shoot is pinched after a pair of inflorescences and leaves appear on it.

If such a variety is grown in one stem for four to five months, then without stepsons this plant simply stops growing. That is why a reserve stepson is left on them from the leaf axil, located under the second or third inflorescence from the top.

When this reserve shoot begins to grow, it will need to be removed, saving a new one, located even closer to the top. In order for the plant to grow normally, it needs to be pruned in the greenhouse every five to seven days.

During the formation of tall and medium-growing varieties For tomatoes, there is no need to leave a reserve shoot, since the appearance of inflorescences in these plants does not limit their growth.

The fewer inflorescences there are on the main stem of your plant growing in a greenhouse, the denser they need to be planted. Then the yield will remain at the proper level.

Have a good harvest!

It is sometimes difficult for novice amateur gardeners to figure out how to pinch tomatoes. Indeterminate tomato plants not only grow multiple shoots, but also grow upward indefinitely. Let's figure out why you need to pinch tomatoes, and when is the best time to do it.

What does pinching tomatoes do?

Previously, we considered the formation of determinate tomato species, paying special attention to pinching. It's also described there pinching tomatoes to reduce the ripening time of the crop. Therefore, if you need to understand the features of growing determinate varieties of plants, go here. In the same article we will deal with the question of whether it is necessary to pinch tall tomatoes, and what this agrotechnical technique gives.

By pinching we mean not the removal of stepsons, but mechanical removal top of the main stem. In gardening and viticulture this technique is called tweezing, and its meaning is absolutely the same - removing the growth point on the shoot. Pinching the growing point can have many purposes, but for tall tomatoes we are interested in the following:

• improving the quality of the crop;
• reducing the ripening time of fruits on the bushes.

Unlike medium-growing (determinant varieties) tomatoes, tall varieties of tomatoes do not stop growing during the season. Their crown is overgrown with leaves and inflorescences again and again. Consequently, nutrition from roots and photosynthesis is distributed to all ovaries. And if by the end of the growing season new ovaries appear, the plant will try to direct nutrients to their ripening to the detriment of other previously set fruits. If the plant is not stopped in time, with the onset of frost we will get a lot of unripe and, most importantly, small tomatoes.

Therefore, if we briefly formulate the main purpose of pinching tomatoes, it will look amazingly simple:

Pinching a tomato stops the plant from growing to fruit.

How to pinch tomatoes and when pinching is necessary

We pinch tomatoes in open ground at the beginning of September, approximately 30-40 days before the full harvest. In greenhouses, the end of the growing season is slightly extended compared to the ground, and the pinching period, depending on the region, needs to be set independently: if you finish growing in November, then pinch the plants at the end of September-beginning of October, if earlier, calculate the time.

Sorry for the tautology, but let us emphasize again: this applies to liana-shaped (indeterminate) varieties of tomatoes. Determinate varieties tend to grow without our help, although in some cases their growth needs to be skillfully managed.

After pinching tall tomatoes, the stepsons will definitely wake up. And not only in upper tier plants, but also from below. Therefore, be on the alert and regularly clean the plants - any growth will delay the ripening of the brushes. And unripened fruits are of little use either for pickling or ripening - they are too bitter due to excess solanine.

Now let's look at how to properly pinch a growth point:

How to pinch tomatoes correctly

In tomatoes, the transfer of plastic substances to yield occurs in the same way as in fruit trees and grapes: if you cut the stem immediately after the fruit cluster, then the brush will not receive nutrients, and the plant will drop the fruits. Grapes behave in exactly the same way: if you don’t leave the leaves above the bunch, and if you mince too low, the berries will fall off.

We need to ensure that the supply of the last inflorescence does not stop, and this is ensured by photosynthesis. This means that the correct way to pinch a tomato is to cut the main stem 2 leaves above the outermost cluster. Schematically, the correct pinching looks like this:

You can also watch a video on how to pinch tomatoes in a greenhouse:

Optional part - formation of indets

In general, tomatoes are very flexible and can be easily shaped. This is especially true for open ground in regions with short summers - there 4-5 clusters are left to fill the fruits, the rest of the growth is sharply limited:

As you can see, there is nothing difficult about how to pinch tomatoes. In open ground and in a greenhouse, this operation is carried out in the same way, the only difference is in the period of pinching the tomatoes. Well, don’t forget to inspect the bushes after pinching and free them from stepchildren, otherwise you will not achieve your goal.

Stay with us and you will find out why summer operations are carried out on pome-bearing trees and grapes - we will continue the topic of pinching plants and talk about pinching and chasing shoots.

You should familiarize yourself with the basic rules and methods of professional pinching so as not to damage the plant. Here are some recipes:

First rule. Correctly chosen time for the procedure. The first pinching occurs after planting the sprouts in open land. Wait some time for the plant to gain a foothold and adapt to new conditions so as not to injure it. Petunia takes root well if you follow a few subtleties. Plant seedlings not too densely so that there is room for roots to grow. Don't forget about abundant watering(2-3 times a day plus spraying). Four times a month, feed the roots and stems with leaves using a spray bottle and soil fertilizers;

Second rule. Observe the condition of the stem. The time for pruning has come if the flower begins to actively grow upward and strengthen. If this is the case, petunia can be safely processed. We count four leaves from the beginning of the aerial part and pinch off the upper shoot, which pulls the specimen upward. Do not be afraid that flowering will slow down, this necessary measure for the formation of side shoots. In just a month you will be able to observe the lush growth and flowering of new buds. The second time we pinch the already blooming petunia, this can and even should be done. Such manipulations will help prolong the period of flowering and growth;

Third rule. The removed shoots will still be useful to you; you can use them to grow new seedlings. Everything is very simple - place our stem in water with fertilizers, and it will take root. Now we can transplant the new nightshade into the ground, having first removed all the leaves except the top ones, this is one hundred percent productivity.

Fourth rule. It is not necessary to pinch hybrid petunias; they will be bushy in any case.

Little pinching tricks for beginners

Pinching is a delicate and labor-intensive processing process. It should not be confused with pinching, pinching and circumcision. Try to pinch off the shoots; this does not require any additional tools, only observation and caution. Remove damaged or diseased parts of the nightshade in a timely manner, get rid of dry, wilted sectors. Be more tolerant of weak, skinny shoots and don't cut off their leaves too much. Knowing how to properly pinch petunia, do not overdo it with pinching, perform the procedure no more than once a month. It is easier to work with large-flowered varieties, but small-flowered specimens are less picky about weather conditions, so the choice is yours.

If you do not have ampelous petunias, but they are stretched out, then apparently they do not have enough light and their stems are stretched up too much. In this case, prune them (shorten too long stems to half) and provide them with brighter light (if this is not possible, then place them under a fluorescent lamp daily).

Why should you pinch petunia? This is done so that the stem does not become too elongated and does not distort the appearance of the plant. Again, due to the stem being too long, the flower in most cases falls or bends under its own weight. After removing the excess shoots, new shoots begin to appear at the cut site, on which buds grow, thus making the bush richer and brighter.

Remember: Petunia seedlings should not be allowed to outgrow, otherwise the moment of pinching will be missed.

The first clothespin dowhen it starts to grow rapidly upward. You should count 5 leaves from the bottom of the stem and pinch off the top shoot - the growth point(To when the shoots are 7 to 10 cm long.). After this procedure, flowering will slow down somewhat, but the side shoots will begin to actively grow.The earlier it is done, the more side shoots are formed.As a result, there will be many large buds on the bush.

Second clothespin produced when the shoots are more than 10-15 cm long, removing the very end of the shoot so that the already formed flower buds remain.

Further Only strongly grown shoots can be pinned to ensure uniform growth of the bush.

As a result of pinning, the petunia begins to actively produce side shoots. This makes the bush look more lush, stronger and healthier. A larger number of new branches guarantees larger number buds and flowers. At the same time, the quality of flowering also improves: it becomes long-lasting and abundant.

Adviсe:- Do not use the operation for seedlings in boxes and young immature sprouts, do not mix different varieties and promptly rid the soil of weeds and pests. Remember, petunias need just like everyone else. decorative types, in constant attention and care;

After pinching, the removed shoots (3-4 leaves) can be placed in a jar of water and after small roots appear, use them to grow new petunia bushes;

Throughout the season, it is necessary to remove faded flowers in a timely manner, this will contribute to the formation of new buds on the plants.

Caring for petunias does not end with pinching

To prevent the bushes from losing their decorative value, you must always monitor the flowers, removing inflorescences and dried petals along with the seed pods. They should be removed so that the plant does not waste calories on setting seeds. All this will help the rapid growth of new, very large buds. Plus, the dry parts of the plant greatly distort the beautiful appearance the whole bush.

When transplanting plants into pots, the volume of the pots should be selected depending on the variety of petunia. For example, for cascading petunia it is better to choose large pots, with 10 liters per bush. For regular petunia, smaller pots are suitable. For example, you can plant 3-4 petunia bushes in a 5-liter container. If the pot is too small for the plant, it will bloom much less.

Ampelous petunia: pinching

In order to achieve maximum flowering, pinching petunias must be done twice. It is recommended to do this for the first time after the seedlings are planted in open ground, but not at once. Give the plant time to get stronger. Now watch: as soon as the planted shoots begin to actively grow and stretch, the moment has arrived (approximately the month of May). Count 3-5 full leaves from the bottom of the stem (this is the plant’s growth point), and everything on top needs to be plucked or cut off. Don't be alarmed if the flower's growth slows down a bit, but it will begin to send out side shoots. The result of this will be abundant flowering and large buds.

Do not throw away the cut stems; they can be placed in water and they will take root. Before planting, leave only a couple of leaves, and cut off the rest, as in the first case.

Second pinching ampelous petunia don't forget to do it after a month.
How nice it will be to admire this flowering plant, like ampelous petunia. Pinching will form lush bushes strewn with bright, beautiful flowers.

Sources: kakprosto.ru; mjusli.ru

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Necessary conditions for pinching petunia

Proper cultivation and formation is an important condition to get a beautiful and healthy bush. In addition to timely sowing and picking, it is necessary to properly pinch the petunia. This means that at a certain stage of growth it needs to remove the top shoots. This procedure will ensure branching of the stems and the formation of many buds on bushy crowns.

To carry out this manipulation you will need the following:

• convenient scissors or pruning shears;
• strong seedlings with 4 – 5 large leaves at the top;
• container for collecting removed cuttings.

How should you pinch petunia?

Before pinching petunia, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for this procedure:

1. When observing the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to choose a period when they have become a little stronger and began to quickly grow upward. It can have up to 5 - 6 leaves, but no more. If you miss this moment, the seedlings will stretch out. Actually pinching the petunias will not take much time. It is necessary to trim the stem above 5–6 leaves using your fingers or pruning shears.
   This forms a new growth point, from which several shoots will begin to grow simultaneously in different directions. During this period, the seedlings may slow down their development, but at the same time they will become a little stronger. When side shoots begin to appear, the bush will take on a more rounded appearance.
2. If you plan to plant seedlings in open ground, then it is better to pinch them after rooting. The sprout will need several days to adapt. During this period you need to try to create favorable conditions in order for the plants to take root:
   • seedlings must be planted loosely, observing the conditions of agricultural technology;
   • monitor the frequency of watering and spraying;
   • Apply a specialized strengthening fertilizer to the roots.

If development occurs in a greenhouse, you can pinch the petunia after picking.

1. If the cut shoots are not very small size, they can be used as cuttings. In order for the cutting to take root, it is placed in a container of water. First you need to remove excess leaves, leaving a few at the top. When the roots appear, they are transplanted into the soil. This way you can get additional young seedlings.

• when pinching, try to injure the sprout as little as possible, use clean tools;
• a month after the event and the appearance of strong side branches, pinching the tops of the petunias can be repeated;
• to plant large buds on new stepsons, use suitable fertilizers, they will make the flowers brighter and larger.

In order for a formed ornamental bush to please with its beautiful appearance for as long as possible, it will need constant care. From the moment of sowing, no replanting, pinching, or spraying of sprouts will be required. Do not forget to water and feed well, remove dried flowers and shoots. In place of the cut old flowers, new branches with buds will appear. Well-groomed colorful petunias will undoubtedly delight you with abundant and long flowering.