Do-it-yourself cyclone for a vacuum cleaner - high technology in your home. Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter for the workshop How a cyclone works

A home vacuum cleaner is so commonplace in the household that no one thinks about the principle of its operation. Since the invention of this cleaning assistant, it has been used only possible way separating dust from clean air– filter.

Over the years, the filter element has been improved, from a banal bag made of thick tarpaulin, it has turned into high-tech membranes that retain the smallest particles of debris. However, it was not possible to get rid of the main drawback.

Filter makers are constantly looking for a compromise between cell density and air throughput. In addition, the more contaminated the membrane, the worse it passes through it. air flow.
30 years ago, physicist James Dyson made a breakthrough in dust collection technology.

He invented a compact dust separator that works on the principle of centrifugal force. I must say that this idea was not new. Industrial sawmills have been using centrifugal cyclone-type scorch and chip storage for quite a long time.

But no one thought of applying this physical phenomenon in everyday life. In 1986 he registered a patent for the first vacuum cleaner cyclone type, with the name G-Force.

In general, there are three ways to separate dust from clean air:

1. Filter membrane. The most widespread and cheap way remove dust. Used in most modern vacuum cleaners;
2. Water filter. Air with debris passes through a container of water (like in a hookah), all particles remain in a liquid medium, and a perfectly clean air flow comes out. Such devices have gained popularity, but their use has not become widespread due to their high cost.
3. Centrifugal dry cleaning filter of the “cyclone” type. It is a compromise in cost and quality of cleaning compared to a membrane and water filter. Let's look at this model in more detail.

Operating principle of a cyclone

The illustration shows the processes occurring in the chamber of a cyclone-type filter.

Contaminated air enters the cylindrical filter housing (2) through the pipe (1). The pipe is located tangentially to the walls of the housing, due to which the air flow (3) twists into a spiral along the walls of the cylinder.

Under the influence of centrifugal force, dust particles (4) are pressed against the inner walls of the housing, and under the influence of gravity they settle into the dust collector (5). Air with the smallest particles of debris (which are not affected by centrifugal force) enters the chamber (6) with a conventional membrane filter. After final cleaning they exit into the receiving fan (7).

The membrane filter is minimally contaminated and only needs to be cleaned occasionally after cleaning. All dirt is simply poured out of the reservoir, and the vacuum cleaner is ready for use again.

Vacuum cleaners with such a filter are cheaper than water ones, but still more expensive compared to membrane ones. Therefore, many craftsmen make a “cyclone” type filter with their own hands and connect it to the inlet of a regular vacuum cleaner.

When working in a workshop or at home with a grinding tool, when processing parts and preparing surfaces, the need arises to remove fine dust. And, of course, it is advisable to reduce its concentration even during work by organizing local constant air purification at the workplace.

At enterprises, this problem is solved by installing filter units with a cyclone, which collects and sediments dust with the required efficiency.

In our case it is enough make a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, thereby saving on the purchase of a construction vacuum cleaner, where such a function is provided by the manufacturer.

The principle of operation of a homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter

There are several options for making a cyclone for domestic needs. To determine the most effective operating scheme for the equipment, you should know the operating principle of this filter.

Cyclone in classic version It is a cylinder and a cone, in the upper part of which there is an inlet for polluted air and an outlet for purified air.

The inlet is made so that the air enters the filter tangentially, forming a rotating flow directed towards the equipment cone (down).

Inertial forces act on pollutant particles and carry them out of the flow to the walls of the apparatus, where dust settles.

Under the influence of gravity and secondary flow, the mass deposited on the walls moves towards the cone and is removed into the receiving hopper. The purified air rises up along the central axis and is discharged through a pipe located strictly in the center of the upper platform of the cyclone.

Required condition effective cleaning air is the exact calculation of the apparatus and the tightness of the cyclone, including in relation to the receiving hopper.

Otherwise, the principle of operation is disrupted and chaotic air movement occurs, preventing dust from settling normally.

In addition, it is necessary to select a motor that sucks in contaminated air, which will ensure optimal operating parameters of the equipment.

Homemade filter for a construction vacuum cleaner, the variants of which are offered on the Internet cannot be called a full-fledged cyclone.

The most simple circuit Such equipment is a plastic barrel with an embedded inlet pipe tangentially, a built-in filter from a car inside the “cyclone” body, through which purified air is removed and to which a household vacuum cleaner is connected.

The disadvantages of the equipment are the absence of a formed flow swirling along the walls of the barrel and a laminar return flow.

In essence, we get an additional capacity for settling large particles (sawdust, shavings), and fine dust will clog the filter at the outlet, and will require constant cleaning.

To improve the design, we suggest supplementing the plastic barrel with a homemade cyclone made from traffic cone. It is best if the work is carried out over several hours, to install a stationary version of equipment for removing dust from the workplace.

In this case we need a radial household fan. And with a one-time connection of the cyclone, it is enough to use a regular vacuum cleaner with adjustable suction power.

Sometimes an additional rheostat is installed to reduce the rotation speed of the vacuum cleaner engine, thereby selecting the parameters necessary for normal functioning filter.

In the following sections of the article we will present you with two options for a cyclone for domestic use.

Selection of equipment - what is needed for work

For the first design option for a permanent installation, you will need the following components:

• Plastic barrel;
• Gray plastic sewer pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• Traffic cone;
• Corrugated hoses, reinforced with steel wire or metallized hoses;
• Adhesive for plastic;
• Radial household fan with the ability to change the engine speed and performance equal to six times the exchange of air in the room;
• Plywood 10-12 mm thick.

The second version of the product is the most successful, since in this case the product approaches the functionality of a real cyclone.

To make a filter you will need to purchase:

• Ready-made plastic cyclone made in China;
• A barrel, bucket or other container for making a dust bin;
• Corrugated hoses.

A plastic cyclone is inexpensive, approximately 1500-2500 rubles, and is designed to collect medium and heavy dust. Works great with shavings and sawdust.

Step-by-step instructions for the cyclone assembly process

Our first option is a stationary design for workshops with large amounts of dust of various origins.

1. First we make the cyclone itself. We make a hole in the plastic cone to allow the sewer pipe to pass tangentially.
2. For better connection The mating surface of the pipe with the cone body is matted with emery cloth. We glue the seams using a mounting gun.
3. In the upper part of the cone we install a vertical pipe, the lower end of which should be below the inlet. In this way we can achieve vortex air movement. The pipe is fixed in a plywood sheet in the shape of a circle with a diameter equal to the size of the base of the cone.
4. The prepared cyclone is secured to the barrel lid using a round plywood sheet.
5. To plastic barrel when the inlet pipe is clogged with debris, it does not deform under the influence of vacuum; inside the container we install a spacer - a frame made of plywood sheet. External dimensions frames repeat inner diameter barrels. To strengthen the structure, we attach the construction cone to the lid of the container using metal pins.
6. Next, we connect the cyclone to the corrugated hoses at the inlet and outlet. We install a radial household fan outdoors under a canopy.

The second version of the construction vacuum cleaner is based on a Chinese plastic cyclone, which is also attached to any of the selected containers. The result is a reliable and efficient design.
The cyclone is attached to the container using a metal clamping flange.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

When starting the vacuum cleaner and further operation, do not forget to clean the inlet pipe and stop the internal spacers on the containers to prevent deformation of the receiving hopper.

If finer air purification is required, the design is supplemented car filter in the housing at the outlet of the product.

Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment It’s quite expensive, so we’ll make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed?

In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to be able to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind debris different sizes. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.

This kind of filters are included in the kit of many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. A homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various types of machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference between wet and dry cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have special form and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Exhaust duct Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make it rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

In the majority washing vacuum cleaners Air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

Made from scrap materials

The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.

The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes is required diameter- use a homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
2. WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the bell is located with outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with wet cleaning in mind, you should extend the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall, or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don't forget about o-rings, for more reliable fixation and to prevent rotation of the knees, they can be wrapped with plumber’s tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when using hand-held and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

1. If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
2. To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
3. When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
4. Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually, you don’t choose a vacuum cleaner for a homemade cyclone yourself, but use the one that is available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumber's tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.

The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be positioned optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.

Quite often after various types work remains a large number of fine dust and debris that can only be removed with good vacuum cleaner. Simple home apparatus not suited for this. It is necessary to use a high-power industrial vacuum cleaner. You can make a filter for it yourself.

People who constantly work in the construction industry need to clean up a large amount of various small debris and dust. It could be old plaster, remains of foam plastic, drywall or wood dust. Such debris can settle in a thick layer throughout the room. It is very difficult to sweep this dust with a broom or wipe it with a rag, because due to large sizes Such cleaning of the premises will take a long time.

Using a vacuum cleaner in this case is optimal. A regular product used at home is not suitable for these purposes. The ingress of wood chips or sawdust will clog the vacuum cleaner or completely disable it. Also, a large amount of fine dust will quickly clog the dust collector, which will need to be cleaned every 20 minutes.

But construction vacuum cleaners are large, inconvenient to use and maintain, and have a very high cost. For this reason, some home craftsmen have learned to increase the capabilities of their household product by equipping it with a specialized cyclone filter. Such dust collectors can be purchased at a hardware store or made at home with your own hands. On the Internet you can find many drawings of dust collectors for woodworking workshops.

Experts highlight the following advantages of cyclone filters:

• no need to constantly buy disposable bags and containers for collecting fine dust;
• small sizes;
• quiet operation of the device;
• when the filter housing is made of transparent plastic, it is possible to monitor its contamination;
• high efficiency.

Operating principle of a cyclone filter

The cyclone consists of several parts:

• pipe branch;
• frame;
• dust collector;
• chamber with membrane filter;
• intake fan.

Dirty air enters the cylindrical body of the product through the pipe. The pipe is located tangentially to the side walls of the housing, so the air flow near the cylinder walls twists in a spiral. Due to centrifugal force, dirt particles are pressed against the body of the device and then fall into a special dust collector. The remaining air with dust particles enters another chamber, which is equipped with several membrane filters. As a result, all collected dust ends up in the receiving fan.

The membrane compartment is the least contaminated and must be cleaned only after finishing cleaning. The collected dust is simply removed from a special storage device, and the device is again ready to perform its duties.

Vacuum cleaners with a similar principle of operation are much cheaper than water ones, but more expensive than membrane ones. For this reason, home craftsmen assemble the cyclone themselves and then connect it to a household vacuum cleaner.

DIY cyclone from scrap materials

It is quite easy to assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. It is often necessary when processing wood. Together with Fraser or electric plane a membrane-type vacuum cleaner gets clogged very quickly and needs to be cleaned frequently, which greatly distracts from production process. When a craftsman is engaged in carpentry in small room, That fine sawdust creates a lot of problems. For this purpose, a cyclone was designed and manufactured from simple details, which is not inferior to its factory counterparts.

Materials for production

To make homemade cyclone, the following materials will be needed:

Assembling a cyclone for a household vacuum cleaner

On the lid plastic containers a special bracket is attached for a small air filter, which can be made from a metal strip or corners. The air filter must fit very tightly to the plastic lid of the container. Otherwise, dusty air will enter the outlet pipe. Next, the outlet pipe must be sealed tightly on top of the lid. Through it, purified air will flow into the household vacuum cleaner. Experts advise leaving the membrane filter of a household product. This will help keep the fan free from dirt and will not weaken the air flow.

Near the air filter it is worth placing a special dust trap, which is assembled from thin metal sheet. This element is capable of repelling small particles of dirt that do not fall under the influence of gravity, which allows you to clean the filter much less frequently. An old woman's stocking can do the same job, protecting the filter pores from large and light pieces of dust.

The homemade inlet pipe must be positioned tangentially to the walls of the housing and slightly tilted towards the bottom of the device. Dirty air will be immediately sent in the right direction. To ensure that the walls of the container do not collapse due to the vacuum environment, they must be well reinforced with a strip of metal. Plastic containers are not able to withstand heavy loads because the material is quite thin. Since the device is large in size, it is worth making a plywood frame, which it would not hurt to equip with small swivel wheels.

Next, you need to properly secure the assembled filter and household vacuum cleaner to the frame. The fastening must be ensured quick dismantling to clean the container from collected debris. At the end of the work, you need to test the device. At the bottom plastic container All trash must remain.

How to make an aqua filter for a vacuum cleaner

When a person does not need a professional construction vacuum cleaner, a water filter for chips can be made in another way. For example, it can be made from an ordinary traffic cone. Any plastic container with thick walls and a well-closing lid will serve as a dust collector. It is worth noting that plastic container plays a role air system , and leakage has a bad effect on the power of the device. It is necessary to cut the support square from the traffic cone. Based on the resulting hole shape, you need to cut out the top cover from plywood.

An outlet pipe is fixed into the top cover using sealant, which should be made from an ordinary sewer pipe. This part must be lowered to the middle of the construction cone. When it is raised higher, the dust swirl will be incorrect. If the outlet pipe goes down too low, dirt will be sucked into it.

The narrow part of the traffic cone is also sealed into a circle of plywood, which is attached to the waste compartment. It is worth checking the tightness of all seams and connections several times. An inlet pipe is placed near the upper cut of the cone, into which dirty air will enter.

Next, you need to check that the dust collector is assembled correctly. The outlet pipe must be connected to the inlet household vacuum cleaner using factory hoses. Therefore, the nozzle should be selected in accordance with the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. The waste collection hose is connected to the inlet pipe of the product. A test run is required. When the device is assembled correctly, all debris will accumulate at the bottom of the plastic container, and the membrane filter of the household vacuum cleaner should remain clean.

You can make the cone shape with your own hands. For example, make it from metal sheet, having previously calculated the layout of the product. An old galvanized metal bucket may also work.

Article about how I did it homemade construction vacuum cleaner with a cyclone type filter. The performance of this useful homemade product for home You can appreciate it by watching a video of his work.

To demonstrate the work, I collected a bucket of sand. In general, I am satisfied with the result of the work done (considering that this is a working prototype layout, so to speak).

I’ll say right away: this article is a statement of my history of creating my first (and, I think, not the last) homemade cyclone vacuum cleaner , and I am in no way going to impose anything on anyone, prove or claim that the solutions described here are the only correct and error-free ones. Therefore, I ask you to be understanding, so to speak, “understand and forgive.” I hope my little experience will be useful to “sick” people like me, for whom “a bad head does not give rest to their hands” (in the good sense of this expression).

I once thought about the upcoming renovation and the ensuing consequences in the form of dust, construction debris, etc. And since it is necessary to groove, saw concrete and “perforate”, the experience of the past suggested that it is necessary to look for a solution to these problems. It is expensive to buy a ready-made construction vacuum cleaner, and most of them are designed anyway with a filter (in some models even with a special “shaker”) or a paper bag + filter, which gets clogged, worsens traction, periodically requires replacement and also costs a lot of money. And I just became interested in this topic, and a “pure sporting interest” appeared, so to speak. In general, it was decided to make a cyclone vacuum cleaner. A lot of information was gleaned here: forum.woodtools.ru I did not carry out special calculations (for example, according to Bill Pentz), I did it from what came to hand and according to my own instinct. By chance, I came across this vacuum cleaner on an advertisement website (for 1,100 rubles) and very close to my place of residence. I looked at the parameters, they seem to suit me - he will be a donor!

I decided to make the cyclone body itself metal, because there were strong doubts about how long the plastic walls would last under the influence of “sandpaper” from a stream of sand and pieces of concrete. And also about static electricity when rubbish rubs against its walls, and I didn’t want the future homemade vacuum cleaner threw sparks at its users. And personally, I think that dust accumulation due to static will not have a positive effect on the operation of the cyclone.

The general scheme for constructing a vacuum cleaner is as follows:

The polluted air passes through a cyclone, in which large particles settle into the lower waste container. The rest goes through the car air filter, the engine and through the outlet pipe to the outside. It was decided to make a pipe for the outlet as well, and the dimensions of the inlet and outlet should be the same. This will allow you to use a vacuum cleaner, for example, to blow something off. You can also use an additional hose to release the “exhaust” air outside so as not to raise dust in the room (this suggests the idea of ​​installing this unit as a “built-in” stationary vacuum cleaner somewhere in the basement or on the balcony). Using two hoses at the same time, you can clean all kinds of filters without blowing dust around (blow with one hose, draw in with the other).

The air filter was chosen to be “flat”, not ring-shaped, so that when turned off, any debris that gets there falls into the garbage bin. If we take into account that only the dust remaining after the cyclone gets into the filter, then its replacement will not be required soon as in usual construction vacuum cleaner with filter without cyclone. Moreover, the price of such a filter (about 130 rubles) is much cheaper than the “branded” ones that are used in industrial vacuum cleaners. You can also partially clean such a filter with a regular household vacuum cleaner by connecting it to the inlet pipe of the “cyclone”. In this case, garbage will not be sucked out of the garbage disposal. The filter mount is made dismountable to simplify its cleaning and replacement.

For the cyclone body, a suitable one was found very conveniently can, and the central pipe is made from a can of polyurethane foam.

The inlet pipe is made with plastic sewer pipe 50 mm into which the hose included in the vacuum cleaner is inserted quite tightly with an appropriate rubber coupling.

The second end of the pipe goes into a rectangle, so to speak, to “straighten” the flow. Its width was chosen based on the smallest diameter of the hose inlet (32 mm) so as not to clog. Approximate calculation: L= (3.14*50 mm - 2*32)/2=46.5 mm. Those. pipe cross-section 32*46 mm.

I assembled the entire structure by soldering with acid and a 100-watt soldering iron (it was practically the first time I worked with tin, except for soldering boats in childhood, so I apologize for the beauty of the seams)

The central pipe was soldered. The cone was made using a pre-fitted cardboard template.

The housing for the auto filter is also made using galvanized templates.

The upper part of the central pipe of the air duct was bent into the shape of a square and the lower hole of the body (pyramid) of the auto filter was fitted under it. Put it all together. I made three guides on the sides of the cyclone can to increase rigidity and fastening. The result is something like this “gravity”.

For the garbage disposal and engine compartment I used 2 barrels from machine oil(60 liters). A little big, of course, but this is what we managed to find. I made holes in the bottom of the engine compartment for attaching the cyclone, and glued sponge rubber onto the contact surface of the garbage disposal to seal around the perimeter. After that, I cut a hole in the sidewall for the inlet pipe, taking into account the thickness of the rubber cuff.

The gravitational cyclone was secured with M10 studs and fluoroplastic nuts to prevent unscrewing due to vibration. Here and further, all places where tightness is necessary were connected with rubber seal(or rubber washers) and auto sealant.

To connect the engine compartment and the garbage bin I used latches from the military wooden boxes(special thanks to Igor Sanych!). I had to ferment them a little in a solvent and “adjust” them with a hammer. Fastened with rivets (with rubber gaskets from the chamber).

After that, for greater rigidity and noise reduction, I foamed the entire structure polyurethane foam. You can, of course, fill everything to the top, but I decided to play it safe in case the need arises to take it apart. In addition, everything turned out quite tough and strong.

For ease of movement and carrying of the garbage bin, I attached 2 door handles and 4 wheels with brakes. Since the waste container barrel has a flange at the bottom, to install the wheels it was necessary to make an additional “bottom” from a plastic sheet 10 mm thick. In addition, this made it possible to strengthen the bottom of the barrel so that it would not “squish” when the vacuum cleaner was running.

The base for attaching the filter funnel and the engine platform was made of chipboard with fastening to the barrel along the perimeter with furniture “Euro-screws”. To fix the engine platform, I glued 8 M10 bolts onto epoxy (I think 4 would be enough). Painted it. I sealed the perimeter of the filter installation site with sponge rubber.

When assembling, I coated the neck of the autofilter housing around the perimeter with sealant and tightened it to the base with flat-headed self-tapping screws.

The engine platform was made from 21 mm plywood. For a more uniform distribution of air over the filter area, I used a router to select a 7 mm recess in the area.

To collect the exhaust air and mount the engine, the plastic engine compartment found in the vacuum cleaner was used. “Everything unnecessary” was cut off from it and the outlet pipe was glued onto epoxy and reinforced with self-tapping screws. Everything is assembled together using sealant and using metal profile(thick sponge rubber is inserted into it) is pulled to the engine platform with two long M12 bolts. Their heads are recessed flush into the platform and filled with hot-melt adhesive for tightness. Nuts with fluoroplastic to prevent unscrewing due to vibration.

Thus, a removable motor module was obtained. For easy access to the auto filter, it is secured using eight wing nuts. The oversized washers are glued (the shrouds have not escaped).

I made a hole for the outlet pipe.

I painted the entire “pepelats” black from a spray can, after sanding and degreasing.

The engine speed controller used the existing one (see photo), adding to it homemade circuit to automatically start the vacuum cleaner when you turn on the power tool.

Explanations for the homemade vacuum cleaner diagram:

Automatic devices (2-pole) QF1 and QF2 protect, respectively, the circuits for connecting power tools (socket XS1) and the speed control circuit of the vacuum cleaner engine. When the tool is turned on, its load current flows through diodes VD2-VD4 and VD5. They were selected from the reference book due to the large voltage drop across them with forward current. On a chain of three diodes, when one (let’s call it “positive”) half-wave of current flows, a pulsating voltage drop is created which, through fuse FU1, Schottky diode VD1 and resistor R2, charges capacitor C1. Fuse FU1 and varistor RU1 (16 Volt) protect the control circuit from damage due to overvoltage, which can occur, for example, due to a break (burnout) in the chain of diodes VD2-VD4. The Schottky diode VD1 is selected with a low voltage drop (to “save” the already small Volts) and prevents the discharge of capacitor C1 during the “negative” half-wave of the current through the diode VD5. Resistor R2 limits the charging current of capacitor C1. The voltage received at C1 opens optocoupler DA1, the thyristor of which is connected to the control circuit of the engine speed controller. The variable resistor R4 for regulating the motor speed is selected with the same value as in the vacuum cleaner controller board (it is removed) and is made remote (in the housing from the dimmer) for placement on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner. A resistor R removed from the board is soldered in parallel to it. The “on/off” switch S2 in the open circuit of the resistor R4 is used to manually turn on the vacuum cleaner. Switch S1 “automatic/manual”. In manual control mode, S1 is turned on and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) - S2 is turned on - S1. In automatic mode, S1 is turned off and the regulator current flows through the chain R4 (R) – pins 6-4 DA1. After turning off the power tool due to large capacity capacitor C1 and the inertia of the motor, the vacuum cleaner continues to work for about 3-5 seconds. This time is enough to draw the remaining debris from the hose into the vacuum cleaner.

The automatic start circuit is assembled on a breadboard. Switches S1, S2, dimmer housing (to accommodate variable resistor R4) and socket XS1 were selected from one not very expensive series, so to speak, for aesthetics. All elements are placed on the top cover of the vacuum cleaner, made of 16 mm chipboard and covered with PVC edging. In the future, it will be necessary to make insulated housings for the boards to protect live parts from accidental contact.

To power the vacuum cleaner, a three-core flexible cable in rubber insulation KG 3*2.5 (5 meters) and a plug with a grounding contact were selected (do not forget about electrical safety and fight static electricity). Considering the short-term intermittent operation of the vacuum cleaner together with a power tool, the selected cable cross-section is sufficient not to heat up. A thicker cable (for example, KG 3*4) is correspondingly heavier and rougher, which would create inconvenience when using the vacuum cleaner. It was decided to discard the device for winding the cable, which was in the donor vacuum cleaner, since the contacts existing there would not withstand the total load of the vacuum cleaner and power tool.

The top cover is secured with a pin and wing nut.

To make it easier to remove the top cover, the motor is connected to the control circuit via a connector. The motor housing and the vacuum cleaner are connected to a protective grounding conductor. To cool the regulator circuit, I drilled a small hole in the outlet pipe to create an air flow inside the engine compartment housing.

In order to be able to insert a garbage bag into the garbage bin, the top edge was covered with a rubber door seal cut lengthwise.

To prevent the garbage bag from being sucked into the cyclone due to air leaks through leaks, it is necessary to make a small hole in it.

The finalization and testing of the resulting vacuum cleaner took place when the repairs had already begun, so to speak, in “combat” conditions. The traction, of course, is many times more powerful than that of a household vacuum cleaner, which would not be enough for even a couple of minutes of working with construction waste. Relatively heavy concrete debris is almost completely deposited in the garbage container and the additional filter does not need to be cleaned for a long time, while the draft is uniform and does not depend on the degree of filling of the garbage container. Dust from putty (in the form of flour) is very light and, accordingly, is less easily filtered by the cyclone, which forces you to periodically clean the autofilter. The task of making a vacuum cleaner was not set and therefore no test was carried out for this function.

CONCLUSION and CONCLUSIONS:

The resulting device eventually turned out to be functional and has already been tested during the renovation of one room. Now I consider it more like a working model from the “will it work or not for fun” series.

The main disadvantages of this design:

— relatively large dimensions are not convenient for transportation in a car, although the vacuum cleaner moves around the room very easily on wheels. You can use 30 liter barrels for example. As operation has shown, such a large garbage container is inconvenient to clean, and a bag with a large amount of garbage can tear.

— the diameter of the hose can be increased, for example, to 50 mm and a hose from industrial vacuum cleaner(but the question arises of the price from 2000 rubles). Although even with the existing hose, debris collects quite quickly, unless of course you try to pull in half a brick.

— it is necessary to make an easily removable mount for the additional auto filter and engine for more convenient and quick maintenance and cleaning.

— you can include a thermal relay in the control circuit (just determine the response temperature) to protect the engine from overheating.

Poor screening of light fine dust, which can be solved by introducing a second stage of smaller cyclones.

In conclusion, I would like to thank all my friends who helped with ideas and materials in the construction of this “pepelats”. And a special big thank you to my beloved wife Yulia for supporting me in my hobbies.

I hope my little experience will be useful to readers.