Cherry growing in the middle zone. Growing cherries in central Russia

Cherry is the oldest fruit plant cultivated by man. A resident of the southern regions, thanks to the efforts of breeders, is now successfully germinating in the territories of northern countries, delighting with its tasty and healthy berries.

There are a huge number of varieties and types of cherries. They are classified:

• by the color of the berries (yellow, yellow with a red side, pink, dark red);
• to taste (sweet, sweet with sourness);
• according to the density of the pulp (tender, soft or dense crispy).

Early ripening

Their fragrant and juicy berries with excellent taste reach maturity in the 2-3rd decade of June. The best among early varieties can be called:

Valery Chkalov. A productive, frost-resistant variety. It has a dessert purpose and is suitable for canning. Large fruits (7-9) g, collected on a small stalk, are heart-shaped with a dark red color. Berries with a large, semi-separable seed. Has average resistance to fungal diseases.

And the way. Frost-resistant, partially self-fertile, medium early-fruiting variety has an average yield and early ripening. The fruits are average 5-7 g, heart-shaped with roundness and a white point at the top. The color changes as it ripens from dark red to almost black. The stone is light brown, slightly pointed on top, slightly sticks to the pulp with medium density. If there is excess moisture, the fruits crack. The Iput cherry is resistant to fungal diseases. It begins to bear fruit in the 5th year.

Raditsa. The variety tolerates well winter frosts. High-yielding, but self-sterile, so a pollinator variety should grow nearby. The fruits are dark red in color. The tree is low-growing with a compact crown.

Orlovskaya amber. A variety of medium winter hardiness with good yield. The berries are average 5-6 g, with good taste, yellow-pink in color.

Mid-season

After the early varieties, the turn of the middle ones gradually comes:

Bull's heart. A variety with large pomegranate-colored fruits with hard-to-pull heart-shaped fruits weighing 8-10 g. Ripening occurs in the second half of June. The variety tolerates cold well and is resistant to diseases.

Fatezh. A medium-sized plant with small berries up to 5 g, but a stable yield. The variety is resistant to diseases. The fruits are pale scarlet in color and have slightly sour flesh.

Vasilisa. A low tree with mixed fruiting. The berries are large, up to 15 g, sweet with dense pulp. With good resistance to frost. It begins to bear fruit 3 years after planting.

Surprise. A variety with average frost resistance. Low damage from disease. Tolerates drought and heat well, but can get sunburn. Large berries 10 g dark red with sour pulp. Pollinators required.

Late

These varieties require more heat and time to ripen the fruit. They are finishing the cherry season:

Tyutchevka. Medium height. The harvest is stable. The berries are medium scarlet 6-7 g with red pulp. They tolerate transportation well. The plant is resistant to moniliosis. Ripens in early July.

Record holder. The tree is tall and productive. The berries are large, 8-10 g, creamy with a pink tint, the flesh is elastic, sweet, and has a medium seed. It is resistant to frost.

Regina. A low tree that begins to bear fruit in the 3rd year after planting. The fruits are dark red, large, 8-10 g, with a rich taste, suitable for transportation. They begin to ripen in mid-July. The plant is frost-resistant.

Napoleon. Tall tree. The fruits are large, 6-8 g, slightly oblong, heart-shaped, dark red (almost black) with dense pulp, which has a sweet taste with a barely noticeable sourness. Transported without compromising quality. Cherries are ready for harvest in early July.

By correctly comparing the characteristics of varieties, such as their flowering time, yield, winter hardiness, disease resistance, and soil requirements, you can grow an excellent harvest with a minimum of effort.

Choosing a cherry seedling

The choice of seedling determines how the tree will grow and how it will bear fruit. For planting, 1-2 year old trees with a mandatory graft mark are selected; it will be a partial guarantee of the varietal tree. The roots should not have growths or damage. A trunk with a diameter of at least 17 cm with good branching of branches - at least 3-4, ~ 40 cm long, the bark is smooth.

Of particular importance when choosing a plant for planting is the good condition of the central wire trunk. He must be alone - straight and strong. With 2 trunks, an adult cherry tree is likely to break due to the severity of the harvest, and therefore, the death of the tree.

A broken wire trunk will contribute to the development of competitors, which will have a bad effect on the development of cherries.

Landing dates

Depending on the region, cherries can be planted in spring and autumn. It is important that this happens during the plant’s rest period. In the south, seedlings are planted in the fall in September-October, the main thing is that rooting occurs before the first frost. In the northern regions in the spring before the onset of kidney swelling. It is important to create an adaptation period before the onset of heat.

Preparing the planting hole

The most suitable place for the growth and fruiting of cherries will be sunny southern or southwestern areas of the garden with loam or sandy loam soil. Thanks to its air and moisture permeability, quick access of fertilizers to the root system of the tree will be ensured. This crop does not tolerate stagnant water.

During autumn planting, the following work is expected to be carried out:

1. Site preparation. To do this, fertilizers are applied per square meter. m – compost (10 kg), superphosphate (180 g), potassium fertilizer (100 g). It can be replaced with a special complex fertilizer, then the soil is dug up. Acidic soil is limed a week before applying fertilizer;
2. In the prepared area, dig a hole with a diameter of ~100 cm and a depth of at least 70 cm, while the earth is divided into upper and lower layers and folded in different directions.
3. A rod is driven into the middle of the hole. Its purpose is to fix the seedling in a vertical position, so it should be ~0.5 m above the ground.
4. The deposited top layer of soil is mixed with superphosphate (200 g), potassium sulfur (60 g), ash (500 g) and compost. Part of this mixture is poured into the hole, lightly tamped, sprinkled with earth from the bottom layer, watered and left for 2 weeks to shrink.

Lime and nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during planting of cherry seedlings, as during this period they will cause burns to the roots.

In the case of spring planting, the prepared hole at the end of October and November remains open for the winter. After the snow melts, mineral fertilizers are added to this pit in the spring, and nitrogen fertilizers, which are prohibited in the fall, can also be applied. After 7-10 days, you can start planting the cherry seedling. It is produced in spring and autumn according to the same scheme:

Planting seedlings in open ground

The prepared seedling is soaked in the root solution for 8-10 hours. Next, the seedling is inspected, damage is removed, and all roots are lightly pruned. Landing is carried out according to the rules:

• The seedling is placed in a prepared hole with the south side facing the peg. The roots are carefully laid out on the soil with fertilizer. The root collar should rise above ground level up to 7 cm;
• the roots are covered with soil from the bottom layer;
• pour in a bucket of water;
• the pit is completely filled up;
• compact the earth around the tree and pour out 1 more bucket of water;
• Make a roller from the remaining soil to the diameter of the hole.

When planting several cherries, given the large size of mature trees, seedlings should be planted on the site at a distance of up to 5 meters from each other.

Proper care of cherries

In order for cherries to enjoy a good and tasty harvest, they need care. They need sunny place no drafts, properly fertilized soil. The basis of care is proper planting, timely watering, digging, fertilizing, pest control and pruning.

Watering and fertilizing

Cherry is a moisture-loving plant. Active is applied to it, deep watering– moisture should reach the location of the main mass of roots ~ 40 cm. Watering is required in June - this is the period of tree and fruit growth, during severe drought, in the fall before cold weather, no more than once a week. During fruit ripening, cherries are not watered to prevent cracking of the berries. Watering also stops in the 3rd decade of July and August, so as not to delay the growth of shoots.

In order for the cherry tree to withstand the freezing of moisture from the crown and not freeze in windy and frosty weather, it is necessary to remember about autumn watering.

Whether feeding is necessary or not is decided individually depending on the appearance of the tree and the condition of the soil. Cherries in the fourth year and older can be fed in the 1st decade of May with the following composition: superphosphate, potassium sulfate, urea, 20 g of each per 1 sq. m. m. Having collected the harvest, they carry out foliar feeding organic fertilizers are added with mineral fertilizers.

Crown formation and pruning in two stages

A mandatory step in caring for cherries is pruning. With its help, a tiered crown is formed that can withstand the mass of a huge harvest. The pruning process should begin with the formation of a skeleton of the correct shape. It is held from 1st to 5th year. Gradually forming several tiers:

1. In the first year, the height of the trunk is adjusted: it is measured to 60 cm, 4-6 buds are counted upward, and a cut is made.
2. In the second spring, the base of the first tier is formed. They will be 3-4 shoots located in different directions from the central trunk, and this is done by pruning them leaving 0.5 m. The trunk is measured 70 cm long from this mark, counted up to 6 buds, the rest is cut off.
3. In the third spring, branches growing inside the crown or vertically are removed. The second tier is formed and their length is adjusted. It should be up to 15 cm shorter than the branches of the 1st tier and 20 cm below the main trunk. It is measured from the beginning of the second tier at 0.5 m and cut off behind the 6th bud.
4. In the fourth spring, the formation of the first two tiers is completed; if higher branches appear on the tree, then the third tier is formed. To do this, cut branches to 20 cm less than the length of the central trunk.
5. In the fifth spring, work on the formation of cherries is completed - they bear fruit.

Pruning cherries in two stages

Summer pruning is carried out in 2 stages. The first after flowering, but before fruiting. To provoke the growth of new horizontal branches, young shoots growing in the wrong direction are shortened. The second stage occurs at the end of fruit harvesting. It involves removing weak, broken, misdirected branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Harvesting begins as the berries ripen. They can be collected in several ways - by cutting the berries with scissors along with part of the cuttings, or by picking them by hand with or without cuttings. For safety, devices are used telescopic handle, they can be collet with grip or wire, pneumatic fruit pickers, tulip fruit picker.

When the fruits are collected, the trees are treated with insecticides and fungicides or Bordeaux mixture. Pruning and fertilizing with organic and mineral fertilizers are carried out.

Cherry propagation

Cherries can be propagated by grafting, seeds and cuttings.

The most effective method of propagating cherries is the grafting method. This method requires cuttings and rootstock. Cuttings of several varieties are cut in the fall and stored in a cool place. The rootstock is shoots and seedlings. 1-2 weeks before the start of active sap flow, copulation is carried out - oblique cuts of up to 5 cm are made on the rootstock and scion, an additional cut of up to 1 cm is made on both sections. The scion and rootstock are connected to each other in a lock, creating immobility, and wrapped with a special tape or tape.

To improve the engraftment process, cuttings are taken with 2 buds, which must be of the same diameter as the rootstock at the grafting site.

To propagate cherries by cuttings, it is necessary to prepare planting material - shoots with growth buds ~ 30 cm long and a substrate of peat and sand 1:1. Prepared cuttings with the lower cut parts are kept in a growth stimulator for about 12 hours. Then they are planted in a greenhouse, with the prepared substrate deepened to 3 cm with an interval of 5 cm. Caring for them consists of frequent watering and maintaining a temperature of 25-300 C. The roots appear after 3 weeks.

Propagation by cherry seeds most often results in trees with inedible berries. This type of propagation is used to grow rootstocks compatible with any variety.

Diseases and pests

Cherry trees are susceptible to fungal diseases: clasterosporiasis, monoliosis, coccomycosis. Methods to combat them involve cutting out the infected parts and burning them. The cleaned wound is treated.

Dangerous enemies of cherries are aphids: black cherry and apple-plantain. To get rid of it, herbal preparations are used. Insecticides are used if necessary.

Caterpillars of the Pentecostal plant, cherry blossomworms, and leaf rollers cause harm. It is better to carry out preventive treatment against them in the spring.

Cherry berries have excellent taste and are a storehouse of nutrients; there is nothing more beautiful than a blooming cherry tree. And to have all this you need to put in a little effort and patience.

Cherry is a fairly common crop in Russia in general and in the middle zone in particular. This is the oldest variety of cherry. In modern conditions, dozens of varieties have been bred with different size, taste and color of berries, height and spreading of the crown, and timing of fruit ripening.

Sweet cherries: the best varieties for a personal plot

When choosing seedlings, you need to pay attention to its zoning, since southern varieties will freeze or dry out in colder climates with high snow cover. Therefore, before going to the nursery, you should pay attention to some points:

• Frost resistance. The higher it is, the better.
• Stunting. Such plants are less likely to freeze and have higher yields.
• Late flowering. It allows you to escape from the returning cold.
• Self-fertility. Such varieties do not require cross-pollination, therefore, harvesting is guaranteed even when planting one plant.

Taking into account all factors, you can decide on the variety.

And the way

A tree of medium height (4-5 m) of pyramidal shape with a dense crown. Thick, shortened petioles with three to four white flowers. Flowering early. Fruits of universal use up to 9 g (considered large) are glossy, burgundy to black in color. Juicy, sweet pulp.

Self-sterile, productive (up to 30 kg) variety, resistant to fungal infections.

Lapins

A variety of Canadian selection with low frost resistance, productive with simultaneous ripening of fruits that do not fall off for a long time. The fruits are large – up to 8 g, transportable.

With enhanced agricultural technology, they reach 13 g. Orange-red color and dense pulp. A variety with great vigor, highly productive, self-fertile, late-ripening. Fruiting begins at the end of July. Universal berries.

Leningradskaya black

The height of the tree usually does not exceed four meters. The crown is spreading. Under good agricultural technology, fruiting can occur in the third year after planting the seedling.

The dark burgundy berries (up to 6 g) do not fall off for a long time, ripen in July, and are picked dry. Used for processing, freezing and fresh.

Summit

The variety is frost-resistant, early-bearing. Berries (10 g) with a wine aftertaste. Transportable. Good fresh and processed. The variety is used for cross-pollination of many types of cherries.

Poetry

Tree up to 3 m with a pyramidal crown shape. Yellow fruits(6 g) with dense creamy pulp. The taste is sweet and sour. Average winter hardiness and drought resistance. The yield is high, the quality of the berries is excellent.

In addition to these varieties, the cherry varieties presented in the table are grown in the middle zone:

Name	Ripening time	Weight	Color	Taste	Tree height	Winter hardiness, productivity
Julia/Julia	mid-early	large, 8 g	Yellow-pink	dessert	average	No
Fatezh	Early July	4 g	Rose red	dessert	average	Yes
Bryansk pink	End of July	4-5 g	pink speckled	sweet	average	winter-hardy, early-fruiting
Valery Chkalov	Early July	9 g	raspberry	excellent dessert	medium height	winter-hardy, early fruiting, very productive
Veda	July	4-5 g	dark red	the pulp is dense, sweet	low-growing (2.5 m), spreading crown, rounded	Yes
Olenka	early	Up to 10 g	red to black	dessert	stunted	increased
In memory of Chernyshevsky	June	4-5 g	Red to black	sweet and sour	tall	winter-hardy
Revna	mid-late	5 g	Bordeaux	sweet	Medium height	winter-hardy
Motherland	June July	6 g	Bordeaux	sweetish	Medium height	very winter hardy
Rossoshanskaya Gold	June July	6 g	yellow	sweet with honey aftertaste	low-growing	Yes

Video review of fruitful cherry varieties

When to plant cherries

Spring planting is practiced in Siberian regions with a sharply continental climate - short summers and harsh, long winters. In the middle zone, where the climate is temperate, more humid and warm, cherry seedlings are planted in the fall - in September-October.

This period is considered the most optimal, since the gardener’s task is to allow the seedling to take root well and go into the winter before the growing season (growth and development) begins. If the deadline for autumn planting is missed, then you have to wait for spring. During this period, seedlings are buried in a shallow trench with a slope of 45 degrees until the onset of warm days. In winter, to prevent them from freezing, you need to periodically throw snow on them, and sunburn cover with plywood, boards, non-woven material. Polyethylene cannot be used to avoid spring damping.

If it is necessary to preserve several shoots, they are tied together in 4-5 pieces and placed in a groove with their upper part to the south, with their roots in the deeper part, to the north.

Advantages of autumn planting cherries in the middle zone:

• During this period, there is no need for frequent watering, since there is enough rain.
• Seedlings are sold fresh, recently dug up. They still retain young roots and leaves that have not dried out, by which one can determine the condition of the seedling, the presence or absence of infections.
• Large selection and relative cheapness.

And finally, in the fall the gardener has more free time than in the spring.

How to choose and plant cherries correctly

Before purchasing, you need to decide in advance whether this plant will be rooted or on a rootstock. If the second option, then when purchasing, you need to find the grafting site - it has a pronounced thickening just above the root collar.

In addition, the tree must have a main conductor, which will subsequently become the main trunk, and pruning will be done with an eye on it. If there is no central conductor, then the result will be a highly branched plant with a high risk of breaking the crown during the fruiting period.

The root system should be 15 cm long, moist and without obvious damage. It is better to choose annual or biennial seedlings.

Immediately before planting, the plant is inspected again to identify any shortcomings and:

• remove “soaked” roots;
• trim very long root ends;
• cut off those roots that do not fit into the planting hole;
• tear off remaining foliage.

Under no circumstances should branches be cut, unless they are broken during transportation.

If there are dried roots, before planting they are placed in water for several hours (from 2 to 10) to become saturated with moisture.

When the seedlings are dealt with, you need to determine a favorable place for planting cherries. This should be a well-lit area, protected from the north wind.

Cherry does not “like” low-lying areas with high groundwater levels, clayey and acidic peat soil.

It “feels” best on loams and sandy loams with good aeration.

The planting site is carefully dug up, weeds removed, and leveled with a rake. Planting pits

are planned at a distance of 4-5 meters from each other. Their diameter and depth are 80-90 cm. When the cherry orchard is planned and the holes are ready, the following is added to them:

• humus - 3 buckets;
• ash – 1 l;
• superphosphate – 0.2 kg;
• potash fertilizers – 0.1 kg.

In addition, if the soil is clayey, a bucket of sand is poured into the hole; if the soil is sandy, a bucket of clay is poured into the hole. Mix everything with a shovel and form a small mound in the center for convenient placement of the roots.

Nitrogen fertilizers are not applied during autumn planting to avoid premature growth.

You can start planting. First, a support peg is stuck into the hole, then the seedling is placed strictly vertically and the roots are carefully straightened along the slopes of the mound. It is necessary to ensure that the root collar and place the scion (if any) was 3 cm above the ground surface. The roots are sprinkled with soil, periodically shaking the tree. When the process is half completed, a bucket of water is poured into the hole and planting is completed. The earth around is carefully compacted.

Then, tie the plant to a support and, stepping back 30 cm around the circumference from the trunk, make a small depression into which another bucket of water is poured. It is advisable to mulch the planting site with rotted sawdust or compost. If the soil settles after a few days, it should be added to the general level.

How to care for cherries

Caring for cherries after planting is practically not required:

• The main thing is to protect it from rodents, frostbite, damping off and sunburn. To do this, the trunk should be whitened, wrapped in burlap and toxic chemicals should be spread out. In cold winters, it is better to add snow.
• In the spring, when the snow melts, the trunk and skeletal branches are whitened to reflect the sun's rays and to prevent disease.
• During the growing season, cherries require watering 1-2 times a month: young ones require 2 buckets, adults – 5-6 buckets of water.
• For the first 2-3 years, only nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the spring - they stimulate the growth of branches and green mass.
• Starting from the 4th year, the full mineral complex is added.

The soil under the trees can be mulched, turfed, or kept fallow.

Pruning and shaping cherries

One of the mandatory procedures for caring for cherries is pruning and shaping the tree. It allows you to achieve regular abundant harvests. Improper implementation of these measures inevitably leads to weakening and death of the plant.

Spring pruning of skeletal branches before the start of sap flow is preferable, since they are clearly visible, and with the onset of a warm period, the risk of freezing disappears. The wounds heal quickly.

For the middle zone, the optimal time for the procedure is the end of March-beginning of April. In the autumn, after leaf fall and until October, sanitary pruning is carried out and the crown is thinned out.

Young seedlings begin to form from the first year when they reach 50-55 cm. If the trees have not yet grown to this height, then pruning is postponed until next year. So:

It is not allowed to remove skeletal branches if they have active buds.

If all agrotechnical practices are followed and with proper formation, the cherry tree will delight you with its flowering and abundant harvests from year to year.

When growing cherries on summer cottage in the middle zone, it is necessary to take into account that these trees are less cold-tolerant than other fruit and berry crops. Because of this feature, plants are more often damaged by frost both during the winter cold and during short-term spring frosts. Otherwise, the technology for growing cherries is in many ways similar to the agricultural technology for cultivating cherries.

Sweet cherry belongs to the bird cherry species; it is found wild in the territory of Central and Southern Europe, Asia Minor, Caucasus. In these regions, in prehistoric times, the best forms were selected and domesticated. Today, about a thousand varieties of cherries are known in the world.

You will learn about how to grow cherries in the country and which varieties are most popular among gardeners on this page.

Cherry is a southern fruit crop; due to the lack of winter hardiness of most varieties, it has not become widespread in the Central region of Russia, but recently varieties with increased resistance to frost have been created. They are successfully grown in central Russia.

The description of the cherry is as follows. The plant is a large tree with an ovoid crown. Can reach 20 m in height, modern varieties- about 12 m. Cherry roots can go to a depth of more than 2 m, but the bulk of the roots are concentrated in a layer up to 1.3 m.

The leaves of the cherry are petiolate, elliptical, up to 16 cm long, 6-8 cm wide, with a sharp tip, doubly serrate along the edge. Flowers with a reddish calyx and a white corolla, about 3 cm in diameter, are collected several times in umbel inflorescences. The fruit is a spherical drupe with white, yellow, red or almost black skin and juicy pulp. The stone is spherical or ovoid, smooth.

When growing in central Russia, keep in mind that cherries are among the early-bearing fruit crops; they are distinguished by annual fruiting and early ripening (certain varieties in southern regions countries shoot in mid-late May). In favorable conditions, a tree lives up to 100 years and begins to bear fruit at the age of 4-7 years.

How to grow cherries: planting and propagation

The plant is heat-loving, not winter-hardy enough, inferior in these characteristics to apple and cherry, but superior to apricot and peach. Flower buds freeze slightly in winter at a temperature of -24-25°C. During the flowering period, temperatures below -2.2°C are destructive.

Trees also suffer winter time from temperature changes and sunburn, which leads to damage to the trunk and the base of skeletal branches. It grows poorly in areas with very hot summers. Cherry is demanding on soil moisture, but does not tolerate stagnant water. It needs loose, breathable soils.

The technology for growing cherries, agrotechnical measures when preparing a site for planting, applying fertilizers, planting and caring for this crop are similar to those for caring for cherries.

Most cherry varieties are self-sterile, so at least 2-3 varieties are planted on the site, taking into account the presence of pollinators. For proper care behind the cherry tree, the feeding area when growing trees should be 6x8 m.

This crop is propagated mainly by grafting. The longevity and productivity of a crop largely depends on the selection of a rootstock for its propagation. The best rootstock for most varieties of cherries are seedlings of wild cherries, and for crops grown on sandy loam and sandy soils - Magaleb cherry. On heavy soils, the best rootstock for cherries is common cherry.

Basic agricultural techniques for growing cherries are shown in this video:

Caring for cherries: pruning and crown formation (with video)

Crown formation and pruning when caring for cherries are somewhat different from similar techniques for cherries, since this crop has strong growth and low shoot-forming ability. Young trees develop a well-developed trunk, on which strong skeletal branches grow, extending at an acute angle. Cherries are grown, like most fruit crops, in a sparsely layered system.

When caring for cherries, shoots that extend at an angle of at least 45° are selected for laying the first tier. Due to the low shoot-forming ability, shoots are greatly shortened to prevent exposure of skeletal branches. Skeletal branches are shortened by half their length.

In varieties with good shoot-forming ability, the shoots are shortened by a third of their length.

Shortening the skeletal branches of the first tier allows you to lay 2-3 skeletal branches of the second order on them. The second tier of skeletal branches is laid at a distance of 80-90 cm from the upper skeletal branch of the first tier. Subsequent skeletal branches are laid at a distance of 50-60 cm from the previous ones.

When forming the crown, strong branches growing inside the crown and located between the tiers are cut out. The height of the cherry crown is limited to 4-4.5 m, cutting out the central conductor at a height of 2.5 m from the ground and reducing the crown by transferring it to the side branches.

Note: thinning significantly improves illumination internal parts crowns, increases the durability of overgrowing formations, which helps to lengthen the fruiting period on older main branches.

Anti-aging pruning. When the growth of annual shoots in mature trees dies down and does not exceed 15-20 cm, they begin rejuvenating pruning, to which cherries respond well.

When rejuvenating pruning, along with thinning the crown, overgrown branches are cut into 2-3-year-old wood, which causes the growth of new young shoots. With the help of pruning, new top shoots are transferred into overgrowing branches, on which bouquet branches are formed. After rejuvenating pruning, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied to the tree trunk circles for digging.

During the fruiting period, sanitary pruning is carried out.

Watch a video about caring for cherries, which provides recommendations from experienced gardeners:

The best varieties of cherries for different regions: photos and names

More than 70 varieties of cherries are included in the State Register of Breeding Achievements, the names of the best of them are presented below.

The best varieties of cherries for the Central region:

• very early: Chermashnaya.
• early: Gronkavaya, Iput, Raditsa, Sadko.
• mid-early: Ovstuzhenka, Fatezh.
• mid-season: Gift of Ryazan, Rechitsa, Teremoshka.
• mid-late: Odrinka, In Memory of Astakhov, Revna, Tyutchevka.
• late: Bryanochka, Bryanskaya pink, Veda, Lena, Lyubimitsa Astakhova.

See how these varieties of cherries look in the photo:

The best varieties of cherries for the Central Black Earth region:

• very early: Beauty Zhukova.
• early: Ariadne, Italian, Oryol fairy, Early pink.
• average: Adelina, Orlovskaya pink, Poetry.

The best varieties of cherries for the North Caucasus region:

• Early: Valery Chkalov, Early Dagestan, Improved Caucasian, Beauty of Kuban, Memory of Pokrovskaya, Sashenka, Morning of Kuban, Yaroslavna.
• Mid-early: Goryanka, Dagestan.
• Mid-season: Alexandria, Velvet, Bereket, Rosinka, Rubinovaya Kuban, South.
• Mid-late: Scarlet, Annushka, Golubushka, Lezginka.
• Late: Contrasting, Mac.

These photos show the varieties of cherries whose names are given above:

Useful properties of cherries

Cherry fruits contain a large amount of biologically active substances necessary for humans: dry substances - up to 20%, sugars - up to 15%, organic acids - up to 0.9%, vitamin C - up to 15 mg%, as well as a large set of mineral salts. Cherries also contain vitamins PP, Bi, B2, E, K, and carotene, which are useful during pregnancy and lactation. Thanks to a large number valuable substances contained in fruits; they are recommended for children.

Due to its high beneficial properties, cherries are recommended for stimulating the activity of the kidneys and liver, improving blood circulation and blood clotting, and stimulating intestinal activity.

Cherry cultivation is practiced for the use of berries in cooking. Compotes, jams, candied fruits, juices, wines are prepared from them, frozen and canned. The kernel of the seeds contains up to 30% oil, which is used in the perfume industry.

Gone are the days when cherries were grown only in the southern regions. Now varieties have been bred that allow residents of the Moscow region and even Leningrad region enjoy berries from your garden.

• Read about.

Choosing cherry varieties

When solving this important issue, it is necessary to pay attention to the flowering period of the tree and the fact that many varieties are self-sterile. That is, for good fruit set, it is necessary to plant not one, but at least 2 trees of different varieties that would bloom at the same time. A photo will help you see what this beautiful tree looks like, although who hasn’t seen it in person...

In the southern regions it becomes warm early, so blooming trees They practically never get frostbitten there. In cooler areas, early ripening varieties may be susceptible to this problem as cherries bloom in the spring. But, if you want to taste the berries as early as possible, then, during frosts, you can cover the cherry trees with non-woven material, make smoke fires near them, etc.

1. Homestead yellow. Fruitful, winter-hardy cherry. The fruits have a sweet and sour taste. The variety is self-fertile.
2. Orlovskaya amber. Winter hardiness is average, the variety has good yield, and is resistant to coccomycosis. The average weight of tasty, large yellow-pink fruits is 5.5 g.
3. Iput has excellent winter hardiness, is resistant to coccomycosis, and is partially self-fertile. The fruits weigh 6–9 g, dark red, almost black in color. Growing Iput cherries is preferred by many gardeners.
4. Raditsa. The fruits ripen very early. The variety is winter-hardy, high-yielding. To obtain fruits that are dark red in color, it is necessary to plant a pollinating variety nearby, since this variety is self-sterile. The tree is low-growing and has a compact crown.
5. Chermashnaya has high winter hardiness. Fruits weighing up to four and a half grams are yellow in color. The berries are sweet and juicy. The variety is self-sterile and has good resistance to fungal diseases.
6. The trees of the Ovstuzhenka cherry variety are low, with a spherical dense crown. The fruits weigh an average of 5 grams and are dark red in color. The variety is winter-hardy and productive.

Mid-season cherry varieties:

1. Fatezh. Winter-hardy, high-yielding variety. The tree is medium-sized, self-sterile, with a spherical-spreading, drooping crown. The fruits are pink-red and shiny. The taste is sweet and sour.
2. Pobeda is a productive variety that is resistant to fungal diseases. Winter hardiness is good. The fruits are large, excellent taste, red in color.
3. The cherry variety Revna is winter-hardy, partially self-fertile, and has excellent resistance to coccomycosis. The sweet-tasting fruits are dark red, almost black, and do not crack when ripe.

Late ripening cherries, varieties:

1. Tyutchevka is winter-hardy, resistant to moniliosis. The tree is medium-tall with a spherical, semi-spreading crown. The fruits are dark red in color, large, weigh 5.5–6 g, and have excellent taste.
2. Revna is a partially self-fertile variety, highly resistant to coccomycosis. The tree is pyramid-shaped and medium-sized. The fruits are almost black in color - dark burgundy, and have an excellent taste.
3. Bryansk pink is one of the latest varieties. Resistant to diseases. In the fifth year it begins to bear fruit. The tree grows to medium size. The fruits are pink on the outside and light yellow on the inside, and do not crack.

Planting cherries

Like many fruit trees, cherries can be planted in autumn and spring. Each term has its advantages and slight disadvantages. In the spring, you need to have time to plant a cherry seedling before the heat sets in. In the middle zone it is the end of April. That is, the period is short. But in the fall it lasts longer. At this time, cherries are planted from the beginning of September to the end of October. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root before the onset of frost, then it will overwinter better.

It is important to choose the most optimal place in the garden. Since the cherry tree is a guest that came to us from the south, it is necessary to plant it where it will be warm. You need to choose a place that is not exposed to cold northern winds. It is better to place the seedling on the south side from others garden trees. Also, on the north side, the tree can be covered by the wall of a building or fence. The place for growing cherries should be well heated by the sun; shadows from other trees should not fall on it.

In the lowlands the tree will feel uncomfortable. Usually there is a high groundwater level, so the roots of the tree will become damp, and the tree itself may die.

Once you have decided on the location, you need to consider the timing of planting cherries. Even winter-hardy varieties cannot be planted if the air temperature is below 0°C. At the same time, when planting in spring, it is necessary to carry out work before the buds swell. That's why autumn planting the most optimal. However, if you purchased a young seedling with a closed root system, then it can be planted almost at any time - from the end of April to the end of October, but it is better to do this when there is no extreme heat, then the cherry will take root better.

The hole for the seedling is dug in advance, this will allow the soil to settle. It is made large - with a diameter of 1 m and a depth of 70 cm. 2-3 buckets of well-ripened compost, humus, or a combination of these organic fertilizers are poured here. Minerals also need to be added. Pour 200 g of double superphosphate and 150 g of potassium sulfate into the hole. Mix mineral fertilizers with organic ones, shape the humus and compost into a mound. Place the seedling on it, straightening the roots. Drive a peg nearby and tie a tree to it.

Fill the hole with fertile turf soil. Carefully water the cherry seedling with 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Press this area with your foot, placing the sole perpendicular to the seedling - with the toe towards it. Make sure that the root collar is at soil level.

This completes the planting of cherries. Of course, it is better to carry it out in cloudy weather; if the morning after planting it is hot, cover the seedling with non-woven material. If you are planting several trees, maintain a distance of 3 m between them.

Formative pruning of cherries

It is necessary to trim off excess branches and shape the tree annually, since cherries grow rapidly. This is done only in early spring, before the buds have yet opened.

Until the tree begins to bear fruit, its annual shoots are shortened annually by 1/5 of their height. When the cherry tree enters the fruiting stage, shortening pruning is stopped. Only branches that grow incorrectly are cut out - directed towards the crown, half of the shoot is removed if two branches form an angle of less than 50°. It is necessary to cut out diseased, dry branches.

To increase the yield, the following technique is used: the sharply growing branches are bent so that they are at an angle of 90° from the trunk. To do this, weights are hung on the branches of a young tree or the ends of the branches are tied to pegs driven into the ground.

Cherry care

It is imperative to weed the ground under the crown, since cherries do not like weeds. Gradually increase the diameter of the trunk circle. In the second year it should be 1 meter, after another 3 years 150 cm. This entire area should be cleared of weeds.

Cherries are watered and then fed three times a season. This should be done this way: first loosen the soil around the tree trunk, while simultaneously choosing weeds. Then, in several steps, water the tree with water heated in the sun, then water it with a nutrient solution.

During the initial period of bud break, 5–8 g of urea are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the tree is watered with this fertilizer. You can notice this organic fertilizer by diluting 800 g of manure in 10 liters. water. Make sure that the fertilizer does not get on the root collar, otherwise it may rot.

The next step is to apply 2 mineral fertilizers to the cherries - the first - during the budding period, the second - at the beginning of fruit set. For this fertilizer, dilute 1 glass of ash and 30 g of double superphosphate in 10 liters. water.

For better pollination, you can spray the flowers with a sweet solution, placing 1 tbsp. l. liquid honey in 1 liter. water. Bees will flock to the smell, and the harvest will be plentiful.

Whatever you say, who doesn’t love to eat delicious cherry fruits. And if previously it was believed that cherries were a southern crop, now a sufficient number of varieties have been bred that can be grown in the cooler conditions of the same Central Zone. Therefore, now more and more summer residents are trying to grow this stone fruit crop on their site. However, in order for cherries to bear fruit regularly and abundantly, they must be planted according to all the rules.

Next you will learn how to choose good seedling, find the most suitable place in the garden, prepare a planting hole and properly plant cherries in the spring, as well as what to do next in order to soon begin to receive decent harvests.

When to plant cherries in the spring, in what place: optimal timing

The optimal time for planting cherries in the garden in the spring is the period before the buds bloom on the tree, in other words, before it enters the growing season (i.e., the plant should still be dormant).

At the same time, a lot an important condition To carry out spring planting, the air temperature is positive, not only during the day (it should already be +5), but also at night.

You should not wait for the ground to completely thaw; it is very good to plant seedlings with an open root system immediately after the snow has melted, but the ground has not yet had time to warm up much.

Thus, it is highly advisable to have time to plant while the seedlings are still “in the dormant stage”, otherwise this will certainly negatively affect their survival rate and disrupt their natural development cycle.

As for the approximate timing, depending on the climatic characteristics of the region, spring planting of cherries is recommended from late March-April to early-mid May.

Advice! The best time to plant seedlings is cloudy and windless weather: early morning or late evening.

When is it better to plant - in spring or autumn?

Many gardeners believe that it is better to plant all fruit trees, including cherries, in the fall, because... During this period, the young seedling will intensively increase precisely root system, which means it definitely won’t vegetate. Moreover, it is recommended to do this before the onset of stable frosts, i.e. you should have about a month (3-4 weeks) left.

Important! Planting seedlings too early in the autumn is also not recommended, because... The shoots must have time to ripen well in order to successfully survive the winter.

However, if, God forbid, you are late, and frosts are expected within 1-2 weeks, then it is better to play it safe and postpone planting cherries until spring (you can save the seedling by burying it in the garden or planting it in a container and putting it in the basement).

Thus, the approximate dates for planting cherries in the fall in different regions are the second half of September - the end of October.

Alternative opinion

In fairness, it should be noted that some gardeners, on the contrary, adhere to the old rule: pome crops(apple and pear trees) - better to plant in autumn, A stone fruits (cherries, cherries, plums, apricots) - in the spring.

The fact is that stone fruit cultures are considered less winter-hardy, therefore it is recommended to plant them in the spring, so that before winter they have time to take root well and get stronger.

However, if you are a resident of the South of Russia, then this is not important for you. It’s another matter if you are a representative of a region with a more severe climate (risky farming zones).

It is noteworthy that, among other things, planting cherries in spring has other advantages:

1. As the seedling grows during the spring-summer period, you will be able to quickly respond to possible problems(diseases, pests, lack of moisture) and immediately take the necessary measures to eliminate them.
2. The spring supply of moisture in the soil allows the root system to quickly adapt after planting and begin active growth.
3. You have the opportunity to prepare the site in advance, in the fall, so that the soil in the planting hole has time to settle by spring, which will help avoid deepening of the root collar.

Note! Cherry seedlings with a closed root system can be planted all year round- from April to October, except that it is not recommended to do this in the middle of summer, when it is very hot.

Video: at what time is it better to plant seedlings of fruit and berry crops

Spring planting dates in different regions of the country

Each climate zone has its own weather characteristics, so the timing of spring planting of cherries in different regions will necessarily differ:

• Thus, in the south of Russia, cherry seedlings can be planted in open ground in the second half of March-early April.
• In the Middle Zone (Moscow region), cherries are planted no earlier than the second half of April.
• In Siberia and the Urals, spring planting of cherries is carried out in late April-early May.

According to the lunar calendar in 2019

This can help you choose the optimal date for planting seedlings. moon calendar.

So, favorable days for spring planting of cherries in 2019, according to the lunar calendar, are:

• in April - 11-17; 21-26.

Yes, this is not a mistake; according to the lunar calendar, seedlings of fruit and berry crops are recommended to be planted only in April.

It’s a trivial thing, but it’s not always possible to get to the dacha on the appropriate days, so the main thing is not to plant cherries and any other crops on unfavorable dates according to the lunar calendar (and these are the periods of the new moon and full moon).

Unfavorable days, according to the lunar calendar for 2019, The dates for planting cherry seedlings in spring are as follows:

• in March - 6, 7, 21;
• in April - 5, 19;
• in May - 5, 19;
• in June - 3, 4, 17.

According to the lunar calendar, from the magazine “1000 tips for a summer resident.”

Step-by-step instructions for planting cherries in the spring: selection of seedlings, locations, preparation of the planting pit and direct planting

The main condition and main guarantee of a tree’s good survival rate is its correct planting, which also includes choosing a suitable place for growing in the garden, as well as preparing a planting hole.

Video: how to plant cherries correctly

Selecting a seedling and preparing it for planting

It so happens that when purchasing any seedling you should always do choice in favor of zoned varieties, which have proven themselves well when grown in your climate zone.

Worth knowing! Seedlings can be either with an open root system (OCS) or with a closed one (in a container).

Of course, it is better for beginners to take seedlings in a container (although they are more expensive), and experienced gardeners can also be purchased with OKS.

So, a high-quality cherry seedling must have the following characteristics:

• General appearance there must be a seedling healthy, without signs of wilting, damage by diseases or pests.
• The seedling itself must be no older than 2 years, since at this age seedlings adapt faster to a new place.
• Height there must be a seedling within 1-1.5 m: any deviation upward or downward indicates improper care behind it or excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers.

Another thing is that some sellers immediately sell cut seedlings, but this is rare.

• The seedling must have well developed root system(without any growths or new growths), that is, in addition to the main root, there should be several more lateral ones (the older the seedling, the more roots it has), the length of which can be about 20-25 cm, but they should not be overdried and broken.

By the way! Even if you buy a seedling with a closed root system, the lateral roots, as a rule, stick out from the container.

Advice! To check that the seedling really has a closed root system, you need to take it by the trunk and shake it. If it fits tightly, everything is fine, if not, then something is wrong here...

• At the bottom, on the trunk, you should clearly see vaccination site(joint of rootstock and scion), which will guarantee that this is a varietal tree and not a wild one.

As a rule, grafting is done by the method of budding with a bud (they also say “grafted with an eye”), less often with a cutting (i.e., copulation).

• It is also worth assessing the quality of the upper part of the trunk (grafted part): the wood must be mature and strong, without any mechanical damage, sunburn, frost holes and bark cracks. And you The trunk must be straight and not curved.

Note! If the bark on the trunk peels off in places without damaging its integrity, then this is a sign of improper storage of the seedling in winter, which led to its freezing.

• It is highly desirable that the seedling had no signs of the beginning of the growing season, i.e. was in the dormant stage, which means its buds should still be asleep (i.e. there should be no leaves on it).

However, seedlings with a closed root system (in containers) are often sold in the spring already in the growing season, which is quite normal. Therefore, in this case, you also need to carefully evaluate their appearance, especially the color of the leaves.

Video: how to choose cherry seedlings

Preparing for landing

If you are already fascinated by the idea of ​​​​properly preparing a seedling for planting, then you will need to know that immediately before planting, the roots of the cherry seedling should be washed from the old soil, then dipped in clay mash, and then their tips should be renewed, slightly trimmed.

Important! This (renewing the tip of the roots by trimming them) should be done even more if the roots are too long, or you notice that there are damaged, diseased or broken (in this case they need to be trimmed to a healthy place).

Some gardeners recommend soaking the seedling in water (possibly with the addition of Kornevin) for a day or at least an hour. This will help restore biological processes in the roots and saturate them with moisture, especially if you see that the roots are slightly dry (and this should never be allowed).

Suitable place in the garden

Cherry is a warm and light-loving stone fruit crop that will grow well only in open and well-lit warm areas of the garden.

The ideal option for planting cherries would be a place that is protected from the drying winter winds on the north side (this could be your country house, some kind of outbuilding or fence), while the tree itself, Naturally, it should be placed on the south side (or at least on the southwest or west) so that it receives the maximum amount of sunlight during the day.

It would be an unforgivable mistake to plant cherries in lowlands or strongly wetlands.In other words, at the landing sitemoisture should not stagnate in the springwhen the snow melts. Otherwise, the plant’s root collar will simply get stuck and it will die.

Worth considering! Stone fruit crops (apricots, peaches, cherries, sweet cherries) are crops with relatively “weak” root collars (compared to pome crops, such as apple trees), therefore, in the risky farming zone, they are recommended to be planted on elevations (mounds).

The occurrence of groundwater in the area intended for planting should be at a level of 1.5 m from the ground surface.

If groundwater lies close, then you have no choice but to make an artificial embankment and plant a seedling on it.

Important! You should not plant cherries near large spreading trees (especially hazelnuts), as this always negatively affects their growth and productivity (if the seedling can grow and bear fruit normally at all).

At what distance to plant

Cherry, like any other fruit tree, needs its own individual space, so when planting it is worth maintaining a distance between neighboring crops.

As a rule, cherries are planted at a distance of 5-6 meters from other trees.

Note! Sweet cherries, like cherries, require cross-pollination.(since the crop is self-sterile), in other words, you need to plant at least 2, and preferably 3 different varieties nearby (the same varieties are not suitable for pollination), and they must have the same flowering period.

Alternatively, you can plant cherries next to the cherry(excellent pollinator) or near the neighbor's tree.

By the way! There are also self-fertile varieties that do not require pollination, but for their better pollination better nearby have a different variety of cherries or cherries.

Remember! The closer you plant trees, the more difficult it will be for you to control their crown in the future, in other words, you will need regular and mandatory pruning, including summer pruning.

Required soil

Soil differs from soil to soil, so loamy (loam) and sandy loam soil, as well as light black soil, are perfect for growing cherries.

The soil must be sufficient fertile, light and loose(it is good to pass water and air to the roots) and have slightly acidic, close to neutral, acidity level.

Worth knowing! All stone fruits like non-acidic soils and will grow better in alkaline soils (7-7.5 pH) than even relatively acidic ones (5.5 pH).

Of course less a good option for planting cherries (and almost all fruit trees) is sandy and clay soil.

Important! When planting a seedling in excessively sandy soil, you should add a little clay and more compost to it, and sand to clayey soil, this will help balance the composition of the soil.

Advice! In cold and harsh climates, and also if the soil is heavy, or the area is very waterlogged and groundwater lies very close, then cherries (like any other fruit trees) are recommended to be planted on gentle hills(“according to Zhelezov”).

Preparing a planting hole: when to dig and what size (depth)

It would not be superfluous to note that landing pit For spring planting, cherries must be prepared in advance. It is best to do this in the fall or at least 1-2 weeks before planting the seedling. During this time, the soil will have time to settle to the desired level.

Important! When digging a planting hole, the top layer of soil is thrown aside for further use.

Width (diameter) and depth of the planting hole for cherries should be within 50-80 cm. Moreover, the walls of the recess should not narrow downward; it is better to make them vertical.

By the way! As a rule, on average they dig a hole 60 by 60 cm.

And here is the planting hole for the seedling with closed root system they do it simply 2-3 times larger than the container itself.

If necessary, it is immediately placed on the bottom drainage layer 5-15 cm from broken bricks or small stones (it is optimal to use lime or chalk crushed stone, which contains a lot of calcium and which deoxidizes the soil = lowers its acidity), and then the prepared nutrient mixture is poured.

Important! If you have to plant in clay soil, then, in addition to the obligatory drainage layer, you also need to dig the deepest possible hole.

How to prepare a nutrient mixture (substrate) or how to fill the planting hole

So that the cherry can easily adapt to a new place and strengthen itself for further growth, when planting it is recommended to fill the planting hole nutrient substrate, in other words, add the entire complex of macro- and partly microelements.

To do this, the planting hole is filled with a specially prepared soil mixture (which is thoroughly mixed to a uniform consistency), which may include the following components (mineral and organic fertilizers):

• all top fertile soil (top 20-30 cm) that you removed when digging the hole;
• a bucket (8-9 kg) of good humus or compost;

Additionally:

a bucket (8-9 kg) of non-acidic peat (either optional or if you have sandy soil);

a bucket (8-9 kg) of sand (if you have relatively heavy soil);

• a glass and a half (300-400 grams) of superphosphate or 400-500 grams of bone meal (an organic analogue of phosphorus fertilizer);
• half or a glass of potassium sulfate (100-200 grams) or two or three glasses (200-300 grams) of wood ash (an organic analogue of potash fertilizer).

Or, instead of superphosphate and potassium sulfate, simply use 300-400 grams of nitroammophoska (it contains 16% nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium) or, even better, diammophoska.

Worth knowing! When planting a tree (even in spring), you do not need to specifically add nitrogen fertilizers (it’s another matter if it is complex fertilizer), since they stimulate the growth of the aboveground part to the detriment of the development of the root system (especially when planting in the northern regions).

Important! However, many knowledgeable gardeners It is not at all recommended to put mineral fertilizers into the planting hole, but to apply them in the future as fertilizing.

After filling the hole with nutrient substrate, it is necessary to drive a wooden peg, which will subsequently serve as a support for the young seedling.

Direct planting of seedlings

Step-by-step instructions for spring planting cherry seedlings in open ground:

• Fill the planting hole with fertile soil in advance, leaving a depression the size of the seedling's root system.

• If you are planting a seedling with an open root system (ORS), then you need to place a small mound in the center of the planting hole.

But if you are planting a seedling with a closed root system (ZRS), then you do not need to make any mounds, but simply plant it in a prepared planting hole without disturbing the earth.

• Drive in wooden support or a peg (if you haven't done this in advance).

If you do not tie a young seedling to a peg, then when the leaves grow on it, then due to the high windage, strong winds will shake the trunk and tear off the young roots.

• Place the seedling in the center of the mound and spread the roots down along its (mound) sides (the roots should under no circumstances bend or stick up!).

Important! If you have a seedling that has been grafted with an eye (budding), then the budding site (eye = new shoot that has grown from the graft) should face north, and the cut site should face south.

• Cover with soil, shaking the seedling while doing so to eliminate any voids between the roots.
• Compact (compact) the soil, starting from the edges at the base of the seedling.

At the same time, do not confuse the root collar (the place where the first root leaves the trunk) with the graft, which is located higher - on the trunk) and should be located 3-5 cm (you can just put 2-3 fingers) above the soil surface. After the tree settles in loose soil, the root collar will in any case return to its normal position.

Attention! But if you bury the root collar, the tree will grow poorly and gradually die (because the root collar will dry out). On the contrary, plant it too high, and the roots of the seedling will be exposed and may simply dry out in the summer heat or freeze in winter.

• Next, you need to make a hole (roller) along the diameter (perimeter) of the tree trunk circle with a height of 5-10 cm.
• Pour plenty of water, pouring out at least 2-3 buckets (pour out gradually - wait for it to be absorbed and add more).
• Tie the seedling to the prepared support with soft twine and secure it in the correct position.

• Level the roller, loosen the soil in the tree trunk circle and mulch it with peat, humus or compost.

Mulch will help prevent roots from drying out and excessive moisture evaporation.

Note! Mulch should not be placed close to the trunk of the seedling, as this can cause the bark to become warm and, consequently, cause the development of fungal diseases.

In any case, the grafting site should be above the mulch.

Video: planting cherries in spring

Rules for further care of cherries after spring planting

It is advisable to immediately after planting a cherry seedling without fail. trim to level the root system with the above-ground part (this is done for a kind of “reanimation” of the seedling after planting, since any planting and replanting is a severe trauma and stress for the plant).

Video: planting cherries and initial pruning, as well as tips for buying a seedling

What should definitely be taken into account is the fact that the main condition for successful rooting of cherries is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil. Therefore, if the weather is dry, then after planting it is necessary to carry out timely and regular watering s (1-2 times a week), pouring out 2-3 buckets of water. In the future, watering will need to be carried out as needed, depending on weather conditions (in spring and autumn you can water 2-3 times a month, and in hot and dry periods - once a week). And then (after each watering), if you have not mulched the tree trunk circle, be sure to loosen the soil at the base to improve oxygen access to the roots. Also, simultaneously with loosening, you can weed the tree trunk circle to remove weeds.

By the way! You can determine that the earthen ball has dried out and the cherry tree urgently needs watering in the following way: dig a hole as deep as a shovel, take a handful of earth from the bottom, if it is dry, then water it urgently.

Advice! Either make a new hole every year, or initially dig not very deep, so that moisture does not accumulate in it during the winter-early spring period and the root collar does not get wet.

Additional fertilizing this year it will no longer be needed, since we have already provided all the necessary nutrition during planting, and it should be enough for the next couple of years.

Of course, you need to be careful track about the condition of your tree, so that suddenly not attacked by any pests or dangerous diseases.

The main scourge (the most dangerous and annoying disease) that often affects cherries (as well as other stone fruits) is coccomycosis

It pays to be prepared! Various birds really love to eat cherries, so you should definitely install at least or hang shiny ribbons and CDs directly on the tree.

Thus, strict adherence to the rules and recommendations for spring planting of cherries is a guarantee that the stone fruit crop quickly adapts to a new location, takes root more easily and grows. As a result, in a few years it will be possible to harvest your fruit from this tree.

Video: how to properly plant and care for cherries

It is a rare summer resident in central Russia who does not try to plant at least one cherry tree on his plot, even knowing that this crop is very whimsical and capricious. When it is possible to harvest the harvest, they talk about the skill of the owner, and if the berries are not forthcoming, then they usually appeal to the fact that the role of the cherry was reduced solely to pollinating the cherries growing nearby.

Cherry varieties for central Russia

The concept of central Russia is arbitrary and does not coincide with the division into regions adopted in the State Register of the Russian Federation. Covers the North-Western region (with the exception of the Kaliningrad region), the Central and Central Chernozem regions, as well as almost the entire Volga-Vyatka and Middle Volga regions. The climate in this area is heterogeneous, but is generally characterized by warm, fairly humid weather in the summer and moderately cold, snowy winters. Average temperatures range from -12 o C in winter to +21 o C in summer.

The first scientific attempts to adapt southern culture to new conditions were made by I.V. Michurin. The bred cherries became the foundation for further breeding work to create new cold-resistant varieties. The variety of obtained types of cherries allows them to be classified according to many characteristics, primarily by the color of the fruit.

Yellow-fruited cherry varieties

Cherry fruits are colored red, yellow, pink and orange. Cherries with yellow berries are not so picky climatic conditions, like its relatives, is therefore more adapted to grow and bear fruit in the climatic conditions of the middle zone, where severe winters are not uncommon.

Drogana yellow

Drogana yellow is an ancient variety with large amber fruits. Their average weight is approximately 6–7 g, some reaching 8 g. The taste of the berries is sweet and dessert, but they are poorly transported.

Drogan yellow cherries are suitable for compotes and jams, but not for freezing; after defrosting, the shape of the berries is not preserved

The fruits of Drogana yellow ripen by the end of June or July and do not fall off. Trees are productive from 4–5 years old and bear fruit for another 20 years. The yield is stable, up to 30 kg per tree.

The variety is self-sterile; pollinating cherries are Denissena yellow, Gaucher. Frost-resistant and, thanks to late flowering, does not suffer from return frosts. Approved for cultivation in the Lower Volga and North Caucasus regions, but through the efforts of gardeners it has successfully expanded the distribution zone.

Yellow drogana tolerates drought well, and in rainy summers the skin of the fruit cracks and is affected by fruit rot. The cherry fly also does not ignore Drogana berries. However, cherries are not susceptible to fungal diseases.

Leningrad yellow

Leningrad yellow is a common late-ripening cherry; the berries ripen at the end of August. The skin is honey-yellow, the flesh is moderately tart, but sweet and juicy. The fruits weigh 3.4 g.

Leningradskaya yellow cherry berries do not spoil, do not lose their taste and appearance for two weeks after picking

On average it yields 15 kg per tree. Winter-hardy. Immune to bacterial rot, does not suffer from insect pests, including fruit flies.

Self-sterile. Pollinated by Leningradskaya black or Leningradskaya pink varieties. These three types of cherries were obtained at the Pavlovsk experimental station of the VIR, located near St. Petersburg. Pomology scientists at the station have created winter-hardy varieties of cherries that are successfully cultivated in the North-West region, although they are not formally included in the State Register.

Orlovskaya amber

Orlovskaya amber is an early ripening cherry; berry picking begins in the second half of June. The fruits are intense yellow with a slight blush, weigh 5.6 g. The pulp is dense, juicy, sweet. Cherries are most often consumed fresh.

Orlovskaya amber berries have a very thin skin, which attracts bees; in addition, ripe fruits are prone to shedding

From the age of 4, Orlovskaya amber bears fruit, increasing its yield every year. From one mature tree you can collect up to 33–35 kg of berries. Needs pollinators; varieties Vityaz, Iput, Gostinets, Severnaya and Ovstuzhenka are suitable.

The variety is not included in the State Register. Grows in the Central Black Earth and Middle Volga regions.

Homestead yellow

Homestead yellow was obtained at the end of the 20th century. The round, rosy berries weigh an average of 5.5 g. The flesh is pleasantly gristly, sweet, with slight sourness.

Home garden yellow is not intended for growing in industrial scale, because it is poorly stored and transported

It blooms early and produces an early harvest, which begins to be harvested in the second half of June. Regular fruiting from the sixth year without the participation of pollinators. The yield is up to 15 kg per tree.

The advantages of this variety include high frost resistance. Homestead yellow is zoned in the Central Black Earth region.

Chermashnaya

Chermashnaya is a medium-sized, early-ripening and early-fruiting cherry. The berries are round, yellow, some develop a blush. The taste is dessert, sweet and sour (sweetness is more pronounced, sourness is subtle). The average fruit weight is up to 4.5 g. The berries are consumed fresh.

Chermashnaya cherries are transportable both close and long distances, the main thing is to harvest in dry weather and tear off the berries along with the stems

The variety is productive, produces up to 30 kg of berries from one tree. When planting two-year-old seedlings, the harvest is harvested after four years. Self-sterile. The varieties Fatezh, Crimean, Bryansk pink, Iput, Leningradskaya black or Shokoladnitsa cherry are recommended as pollinators.

Chermashnaya is resistant to fungal diseases of stone fruits. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

Winter-hardy varieties of cherries

In unstable winter weather, when cold weather gives way to periods of thaw, cherry wood is damaged and frost holes appear. And returning spring frosts are destructive to the buds, which is why the harvest suffers. Breeders have managed to develop cherry varieties that are resistant to cold weather in their buds and wood. In addition to the yellow-fruited Leningradskaya and Priusadebnaya, it is worth remembering several more winter-hardy varieties.

Veda

Veda is a late cherry. The fruits are flattened, heart-shaped, medium-sized. Weight - a little more than 5 g. Beneath the ruby ​​skin lies juicy, tender flesh. The yield of the variety is up to 25 kg per tree. Bears fruit from 4–5 years. The State Register recommends growing in the Central region.

To improve pollination of any cherry, including the Veda variety, during the flowering period you can spray the branches with water and honey or sugar, bees will flock to the sweets

Bryansk pink

Bryansk pink is a very late cherry. The berries are round and coral. Veins are visible through the thick skin. Cartilaginous elastic flesh with a rich sweet taste. Fruit weight - 4.5 g. Needs pollinators; the best varieties are Iput, Ovstuzhenka, Revna, Tyutchevka. The yield is average - 20 kg per tree. The trees are early-bearing, winter-hardy, and not susceptible to coccomycosis. Bryansk pink cherries are included in the State Register for the Central Region.

100 g of any cherry, for example, the Bryansk pink variety, contains 14–15 mg of vitamin C (the daily requirement for an adult is 70–100 mg)

And the way

Iput is a variety of cherry with fruits the color of dark pomegranate. Heart berries weigh on average 5 g, although the weight can reach up to 10 g. The skin cracks under conditions of excess moisture. The pulp is dense, dark red, sweet and juicy.

Iput blooms early and produces an early harvest. Fruiting from 4–5 years. The average yield is 20 kg per tree, twice as much in good years. It produces crops only in the vicinity of pollinators. Varieties Revna, Bryanskaya rozovaya, Tyutchevka are suitable for pollination.

Winter-hardy, not affected by fungal diseases. Iput cherries are included in the State Register and approved for cultivation in the Central Black Earth region.

For the Iput cherry, the breeders chose a name that seems strange to many, and the name was given in honor of the river flowing through the Bryansk region

Odrinka

Odrinka is a late cherry with round, dark red berries of rich taste. The maximum fruit weight is 7.5 g, the average weight is 5.4 g. It blooms late and produces a medium-late harvest. Begins bearing fruit at 5 years of age. Productivity - 25 kg per tree. Self-sterile, the best pollinators are Ovstuzhenka, Rechitsa, Revna. Winter-hardy, not susceptible to fungal diseases. In the State Register for the Central Region.

In addition to other advantages, any cherry, like the Odrinka variety, is very decorative - in the spring it is covered with fragrant flowers, in the summer - with juicy fruits

Revna

Revna is a mid-late cherry. The flattened-rounded fruits weigh no more than 5 g, although some are almost 8 g. The skin is red to black on ripe berries. The pulp is dark, dense, juicy, and has an excellent taste. Revna bears fruit from the age of 5. Partially self-fertile, the best pollinators for this cherry are Ovstuzhenka, Tyutchevka, Raditsa, Iput. When combined with other varieties, the average yield is 25 kg per tree, and the maximum reaches 30 kg.

Shows winter hardiness and resistance to fungal pathology. The variety is included in the State Register for the Central Region.

Pink pearl The berries of the winter-hardy cherry Pink Pearl are not very large, weighing on average 5.4 g. The taste characteristics of the fruits are pleasant, they are characterized by sweetness. The variety tolerates temperature changes, is drought-resistant and actively bears fruit. The first harvest appears in the 5th–6th year, and the first berries appear in mid-July. The indicator for one mature plant reaches 13–18 kg.

The variety is self-fertile and needs pollinators. For these purposes, the cherry varieties Michurinka or Michurinskaya late, Adelina, Ovstuzhenka, Plaziya, Rechitsa are used. It is currently undergoing state variety testing.

To enhance pollination and attract insects, you can plant honey-bearing herbs next to any cherry, including the Pink Pearl variety: lemon balm, mint, oregano

Fatezh Fatezh is a dessert variety of cherries. The berries are small, round, mid-early ripening, weighing 4.5 g. The skin is red or red-yellow. The pulp is juicy, has a cartilaginous structure and a pale pink color. The taste is sweet with sourness. The fruits are well transported. The variety is self-sterile; Chermashnaya, Iput, and Bryansk pink are recommended as the best pollinators for it. With the presence of pollinators, it produces up to 35 kg of harvest from one tree.

Resistant to fungal diseases and frost-resistant. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

Gardeners often increase the winter hardiness of cherries through grafting. In this case, the seedlings retain the characteristics of the selected varieties, while showing resistance to cold and disease thanks to the hardy rootstock.

Low growing cherry

In small garden plots, tall cherry trees with a spreading crown cause a lot of trouble. Breeders offer varieties with limited growth, easy to care for and harvest. Such cherries are called dwarf or columnar. Fruiting in such trees occurs earlier than in tall cherries, sometimes even in the year of grafting. However, it is recommended to pick off the flowers of the first year.

In fact, these trees are an overgrown central conductor 2–3 m high with short skeletal and bouquet branches . To facilitate care and limit the growth of trees, it is also practiced to form cherry trees in the form of a bush, with several trunks. Due to their structural features, compact seedlings occupy less space on the site, they are planted closer. Columnar trees often require additional support.

Dwarf trees are more demanding than other types of cherries. external conditions, they need high illumination of the area, absence of wind and sudden temperature changes. In addition, they do not tolerate irregularities in watering and are not drought-resistant.

Seedlings of dwarf trees retain their maternal properties, therefore not only grafting is used for propagation, but also planting seeds. As a rule, seedlings obtained from seeds are better adapted to the local climate.

Dwarf trees look advantageous in small areas due to their unusual shape and dense flowering. They are often self-fertile, and the taste is not inferior to large varieties. There are not many varieties yet that can survive harsh winters. Most often, suppliers offer Helena, Sylvia and Little Sylvia, Black Columnar cherries. The Sam variety is proposed as a pollinator; it is as tall as large trees.

Photo gallery: columnar varieties of cherries

Columnar trees can be planted close to each other, at a distance of 1–2 m Helena cherries can withstand cold weather, but it is better to create additional protection for the winter so that they do not die Silvia cherry variety is a very valuable industrial variety, suitable for transportation and storage under normal conditions for up to 7 days The Little Sylvia variety retains all its properties for several weeks if the berries are stored in the refrigerator Low-growing varieties of cherries, like the Black columnar one, do not need pruning; they grow upward on their own Cherry Sam has the most high resistance to fruit cracking among all cherries, therefore valued in regions with high rainfall

Cherry with large fruits

As a rule, large-fruited cherries grow in warm regions, are susceptible to various diseases, and do not tolerate cold and temperature fluctuations. In particular, this is the yellow Drogana already described above - its fruits reach 8 g. There are other varieties that are worth talking about.

It can be noted that it is winter-hardy, the weight of the berries is within 8 g. These dark, sweet berries with a slight sourness have one drawback: with excess humidity or temperature changes, the skin of the fruit cracks. Due to this, quality and transportability deteriorate. In the presence of pollinators (varieties Iput, Ovstuzhenka, Tyutchevka), Ox's heart can produce up to 40 kg of berries from one tree. The berries ripen by the end of June. Grown mainly in the southern Black Earth region.

Cherry berries Bull's heart produce some of the largest among all varieties, but they do not tolerate transportation well and immediately burst (because the pulp is very juicy)

To increase the size of the fruit, some gardeners cut off up to a third of the flowers, artificially reducing the number of ovaries. In this case, the remaining berries receive more nutrition and develop better.

Self-fertile cherry varieties

Due to the structural features of the flower, cherry is mainly a cross-pollinated plant. Most varieties of cherries are self-sterile, however, self-pollinating cherries also exist.

The berries of the Narodnaya Syubarova cherry reach a weight of 5–7 g. This is an example of an unpretentious cherry that grows on any soil and in almost any climate. Despite the cold, snowy winters and strong winds, bright scarlet berries ripen on the cherry trees in the second half of July. Up to 40–50 kg of harvest is harvested from a tree without the presence of other varieties. Not included in the State Register. It is widespread in the Crimea and the Volgograd region, but gardeners are able to expand the growing area of ​​Narodnaya Syubarova due to the unpretentiousness and winter hardiness of the variety.

Self-fertile cherry Narodnaya Syubarova, like other self-fertile crops, will bear more fruit in the presence of pollinators

K partially self-fertile varieties belongs to the early middle Ovstuzhenka, the average weight of the berries of which is 4 g. The berries are dark cherry color, medium-sized, slightly elongated, with dark sweet pulp. Without pollinating trees, only 10% of the flowers produce berries. The best neighbors are considered to be Iput, Raditsa, Bryansk pink. Productive variety (up to 20 kg per tree). Ovstuzhenka is not affected by coccomycosis and is resistant to cold, withstanding frosts down to -40 o C without damage. In the State Register for the Central Region.

Cherry Ovstuzhenka does not like weeds very much, you need to weed the tree trunk circle in a timely manner, increasing it by 50 cm annually

There are other partially self-fertile varieties, for example, Revna, but it also bears fruit better in the presence of pollinators. Without proximity to other varieties, 5–10% of flowers are produced.

Early fruiting cherry

Cherries begin to bear fruit at 5–6 years. Cherries Iput and Veda bear fruit from 4–5 years. The four-year-old Orlovskaya Yantarnaya and Chermashnaya are not inferior to Adelina in terms of yield. But there are also record holders.

There is a cherry tree that produces a harvest already in the third year after planting. This is the Orlovskaya pink variety, the flattened-round berries of which are smooth, with an average weight of 3.5 g. The skin and pulp are pink. The taste is sweet with a gentle sourness. The yield of the variety is 20 kg per tree. Self-sterile, pollinating varieties - Vityaz, Iput, Gostinets, Severnaya and Ovstuzhenka. Its advantage is its resistance to fungal diseases and early pregnancy. Approved by the State Register for cultivation in the Central Black Earth region.

The Orlovskaya pink cherry variety is superior to all varieties in terms of frost resistance: after being tested by severe frost, the tree continued to bear fruit

Adelina is slightly behind the Orlovskaya rose, giving the first harvest in the 4th year. The variety is mid-season. The heart-shaped berries are ruby-colored. The average weight of Adeline's fruits is within 5.5 g. The pulp is juicy, cartilaginous in structure. Due to the dense consistency of the pulp, the fruits are perfectly transportable. A self-sterile variety, the best neighbors will be the varieties Poeziya and Rechitsa. The yield is low, a little more than 20 kg per tree. Included in the State Register for the Central Black Earth Region.

If you want to protect your entire already small harvest of Adeline cherries from birds, then the nets that cover the trees can help

Sweet cherries

The sweetest cherries for the middle zone:

• Adeline;
• Bryansk pink;
• And the way;
• Revna;
• Ovstuzhenka;
• Chermashnaya.

In addition to these varieties, it is worth mentioning the mid-season Tyutchevka cherry, the fruits of which are dark red, juicy, dense, weighing 5.3 g. They require pollinators; the varieties Bryanskaya rozovaya, Iput, Ovstuzhenka, Raditsa, and Revna are recommended. In a typical year, 25 kg of fruit is harvested from a tree. Excellent cold-resistant and disease-resistant sweet cherry. Included in the State Register for the Central Region.

Sweet cherry variety Tyutchevka Sweet cherry has good resistance to many diseases, but can be affected by coccomycosis and klyasterosporiosis

Features of planting and growing cherries in central Russia

When planting cherries, you need to take into account the climatic characteristics of the region, the composition and acidity level of the soil, as well as the varietal characteristics of the cherries themselves. According to I.V. Michurin, the variety ensures the success of the business.

Cherry prefers to grow in warm, illuminated areas, protected from piercing winds. It does not tolerate stagnant water and acidic soils, therefore, before planting trees, the soils are deoxidized by adding 3–5 kg of dolomite flour to the planting hole for these purposes. All stone fruits love light soils, so sand is added to the soil mixture to improve its composition (in proportion to dolomite flour), and crushed limestone is poured into the bottom of the pit to improve drainage and provide cherries with calcium.

Seedlings are purchased from reliable suppliers or large nurseries. Check the condition of the buds and root system. The buds must be awakened, and the root system must be developed and completely cover the container.

It is preferable to purchase containerized cherry seedlings, since the closed root system is not damaged during transportation and is subject to less stress during planting.

Prepare the site in advance. The crown projection area corresponds to the prevalence of roots, so more space is left for tall varieties. In addition, the need for pollinators is taken into account. Planting holes are dug at a distance of 3–4 meters from each other. To plant one seedling:

1. Dig a hole with a diameter of 80 cm and a depth of up to 70 cm.
2. The top fertile layer is separated.
3. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom for drainage.
4. Dolomite flour and sand (1:1) are mixed with your own fertile soil layer, adding organic matter (humus, compost or peat in equal quantities), and backfilled.
5. The planting stake is secured and the seedling is placed nearby so that the root collar rises above the soil level.
6. They tie the tree to a peg.
7. Compact the soil around the seedling, forming a watering hole.
8. Water generously (up to 3–4 liters of water).
9. To reduce moisture evaporation, cover the tree trunk circle with mulch.

Cherry trees are characterized by intensive growth, so it is advisable to immediately cut the central conductor to a height of 50–60 cm in order to subsequently form a tiered crown. If the skeletal branches are already formed, then cut them so that they are shorter than the trunk.

The formation of a sparsely-tiered crown ensures optimal development of the plant

When planting, organic fertilizers are applied so that the soil under the trees does not need to be fertilized in the next few years. Further watering of seedlings is carried out if necessary. Excessive soil moisture leads to rotting of the roots, and during the period of fruit ripening - to their cracking. Important periods for watering cherries are the time of flowering and the formation of the ovary, immediately after harvest and a month before the expected permanent cold (beginning or mid-October). The rest of the time, cherries are watered based on the climate.

Video: planting cherries

It is recommended to preventively treat cherry seedlings in early spring with a 1% solution of copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture to prevent fungal diseases. If necessary, repeat the procedure before flowering.

Regular pruning is carried out in early spring in order to remove damaged branches and properly form the crown.

Weak, thickening, intersecting branches growing inside the crown are removed, thereby indirectly regulating flowering and ensuring the harvest. In the fall, it is recommended to whitewash not only the trunks, but also the main skeletal shoots to protect the bark from frost damage. In the first years it is recommended to winter cold

cover the seedlings by wrapping the trunks with corrugated cardboard or other material to protect the plantings from rodents.

Cherry - growing and care in central Russia

Sweet cherry is the closest relative of the sour cherry. Thanks to new, cold-resistant varieties, it is possible to grow cherries in central Russia and northern regions, despite the southern origin of the crop.

Choosing a cherry seedling

To plant on the site, you should select several varieties of cherries for cross-pollination. In the middle zone and the Moscow region, the following varieties produce good harvests: Cheremashnaya, Krymskaya, Iput, Bryansk pink, Fatezh, Tyutchevka.

• Externally, cherry seedlings are very similar to cherries, but upon closer inspection, it is not difficult to distinguish them:
• Cherry trees are taller with erect branches;

The bark of cherry seedlings is brown with a reddish tint, while the bark of cherry seedlings is gray-brown.

The root system of cherry planting material is well developed and has 3-4 branches 20 cm long. Specimens with dried, rotten or frozen roots should not be purchased - they are not viable. If the root system of the seedling is very dry - a light brown core is visible when cut, you can revive the seedling. To do this, the roots are placed in a container with water for a day.

Choosing a location and planting cherries

Improper planting of cherries can lead to the death of the seedling, so this stage must be approached responsibly.

Choosing a landing site

Cherry prefers areas on the south or southwest side, not blown by north winds. It is allowed to plant trees near the southern walls of the house and on gentle slopes.

This fruit crop does not tolerate stagnation of moisture, even short-term. Planting cherries in central Russia should be carried out in areas with deep groundwater. Otherwise, soaking the roots will lead to a delay in the development of the tree, and subsequently to its death.

Soil preparation

Cherries develop and bear fruit well on fertile loams and sandy loams with neutral acidity. The soil should be well aerated and saturated with moisture. Peat bogs, deep sandstones and heavy clay soils Not suitable for growing cherries.

It is necessary to prepare the area where you plan to plant the tree in advance. The site is dug up in the fall, adding organic matter (manure or compost) and mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and sodium sulfate). If you need to lower the pH level of the soil, add about 500 g of lime or chalk.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Cherries take root and develop well, the cultivation and care of which are planned in advance, and the rules and planting dates are followed. In the southern regions, planting is done in the fall and they have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the conditions of the Moscow region and the middle zone, transplantation should be postponed until spring. The optimal time for spring planting in open ground is the end of April, before the buds swell.

When planting a cherry orchard, a distance of at least 3 meters must be maintained between plants. A hole for planting is dug two weeks before planting so that the soil is sufficiently settled. The fertile layer of surface soil is tilted in one direction, and the deep layer in the other. The size of the hole should ensure free placement of the root system in it - a depth of approximately 60 cm and a width of 60-100 cm. It is not recommended to add nitrogen-containing fertilizers and lime to the planting hole, as they can cause burns to the roots.

At the bottom of the planting hole, a mound of fertile soil is formed, on which the seedling is placed. The root neck of the cherry tree should not be deepened. It should be at ground level or slightly higher. After landing you need to abundant watering trees, and mulch the tree trunk circle.

Cherry - care after planting and before harvest

Caring for cherries in the first year of planting does not take much effort. It is enough to water the plant in a timely manner and remove weeds in the tree trunk circle. In the future, the tree needs additional events care

Watering and weeding

Watering an adult tree is carried out three times a season, adding 20-30 liters of water. In dry summers, the amount of watering can be increased. You should avoid excess moisture, as cherry roots are prone to rotting. The growth of weeds in the tree trunk circle is unacceptable, so they are regularly removed, the soil is loosened and mulched.

Pollination

For fruiting, you need to ensure good pollination of the cherry during flowering. Cherries of other varieties or cherries will become cross pollinators. To attract bees, cherry flowers can be irrigated with honey or sugar dissolved in water.

Fertilizing cherries in spring and pre-winter

If the soil was well fertilized when planting, additional fertilizing is not needed for the first 3-5 years. Caring for cherries in central Russia in the future includes the application of organic fertilizers, which are applied in the spring: 10 kg of compost or rotted manure. Mineral fertilizers (superphosphate) will help the tree prepare for winter. They are brought in no later than September.

Formative and sanitary pruning of cherries

In the year of planting, you need to shorten the side branches to 40 cm. The intensive growth of cherry shoots needs to be restrained. To do this, formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

In subsequent years, pruning is carried out to form a tiered crown, shortening last year's shoots. At a height of 3-3.5 m, the growth of the main conductor is restrained by pruning. In the spring, sanitary pruning is also carried out, removing damaged and improperly growing branches.

Harvesting and subsequent care of cherries

Cherries begin to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The ripening period of berries may vary depending on the variety. Berry picking often occurs in June and July. Berries with stalks are picked in dry weather.

During the ripening period, starlings and other birds like to feast on the berries. To deter them, you can buy special nets for fruit trees, and summer residents also attach rustling and shiny objects to the trees. More reliable means of protection are non-woven material or electronic repellers.

Caring for cherries after harvest is not difficult. It is necessary to monitor the health of the tree and regularly clean the tree trunk from fallen plant debris. During this period, the amount and rate of watering can be reduced.

Diseases and pests of cherries, and their control

To protect cherries, early spring (during bud swelling) spraying with a urea solution is used as a preventive measure. Prepare a solution from 10 liters of water and 500-600 g of urea. They treat not only the branches, but also the soil in the tree trunk circle, thereby destroying the insects wintering there.

To combat fungi and moss, treat the trunk and crown with a 5% solution of iron sulfate before sap flow begins. Such treatment is sufficient once every few years.

To combat the main pests: sawfly, mites, aphids, they are treated with Karbofos, Askarin, Fitoverm, Novaktion. Spray the trees during the period of bud opening and bouquet separation. During the same period, prevention of clasterosporiasis, moniliosis and other diseases is carried out with a 5% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

After flowering, prevention of flying pests begins. To do this, spray with Karbofos or Novaktion. The last treatment should be carried out no later than 20 days before the crop ripens.

Preparing cherries for wintering

Mature cherries, planted and cared for according to the rules, tolerate winter well without shelter. It is enough to whiten the base of the trunk and skeletal branches, add 150 g of superphosphate to the soil in September, and mulch the tree trunk circle with peat. Also in the fall it is necessary to carry out abundant saturating watering.

Young seedlings need shelter. Don't wrap them around artificial materials(lutrasil, spunbond). It is better to give preference to spruce branches or burlap, under which the trees breathe in winter and will not rot.

Bottom line

Even inexperienced gardeners can grow cherries in central Russia and other regions. By choosing the right seedling and planting site, as well as following simple care rules, you can harvest an excellent harvest of juicy and sweet berries every year.

Cherry is one of the most ancient fruit plants, loved by many for its wonderful berry taste and health benefits. It was known 2000 years ago; the Romans gave it the name “Curasunta fruit”.

Cherry is a capricious tree, it has many nuances in cultivation, and a gardener needs to know: when and how to plant cherries correctly, what varieties to choose and how to achieve abundant fruiting.

The sweet cherry is considered the closest relative of the cherry. Many people confuse cherries and cherries; only in 1491 did botanists determine that these are different crops, although they belong to the same family. Sweet cherries are often called “bird cherries,” and in Europe even Chekhov’s famous play is called “The Cherry Orchard.”

The tree can reach up to 20-30 meters in height, blooms profusely, and the flowers appear before the leaves. Breeders have also bred dwarf varieties up to 3-5 meters, which provides more convenient fruit harvesting.

The color of the fruit varies depending on the variety: yellow, pink, dark red. According to the condition of the pulp, it is divided into 2 types: bigarro - with hard pulp and late ripening and guini - with soft pulp and early fruiting. Cherry is self-sterile; for pollination it is necessary to plant 2-3 other varieties nearby. The Iput cherry is especially good for pollination.

The lifespan of a tree is about 100 years, but most often it is used for 15-20 years. Cherries can produce up to 25-30 kg of fruit per tree in a short fruiting period. There are 4,000 varieties of cherries in the world, of which 46 varieties were created by breeders from Russia.

When to plant: autumn or spring?

It is believed that the cherry is a tree that is more suitable for the south of the country, since it is very vulnerable to low temperatures and freezes slightly during the first permanent frosts, but nowadays, thanks to the efforts of breeders, the cultivation of cherries has become possible in other regions.

Cherry varieties have been created that correspond to different climatic conditions, are resistant to freezing and begin to bear fruit at the right time for a given region.

In the southern regions, cherries are planted mainly in autumn during leaf fall. Spring planting threatens the seedling with high temperatures already in March - April, dry winds and a large number of pests. In the fall, the tree manages to take root well and by spring it is already a strong plant, especially since there are no severe frosts in the winter in the south.

For the Central regions of Russia, Siberia, and the Far East, it is recommended to plant cherries in the spring, so that over the summer the seedling becomes stronger and takes root. Spring for planting a tree has another undeniable advantage: throughout the summer, the gardener monitors the development and condition of the plant every day. He will be able to quickly take the necessary measures in case of drought or excess moisture, pest attack or plant disease.

Preparing berries for planting in spring

Variety selection

A mistake for many cherry lovers is choosing a variety that is not zoned for a given region. Gardeners are seduced by beautiful descriptions, bright labels and do not take into account the survival rate of seedlings, the effects of climate and biological features cherries.

This is especially true in areas with harsh and long winters. Moreover, when choosing a variety, it is necessary to take into account not only sub-zero winter temperatures; temperature changes in the spring are very dangerous - recurrent frosts.

For seedlings to die, a decrease in temperature after a thaw to -2°C is sufficient, unless it has a high level of winter hardiness. Experienced gardeners in this situation additionally use smoke from fires.

The yield can also be affected by the composition of the soil in a given region, the duration and intensity of daylight hours, and the presence of stable cold winds.

The result is small yields, freezing, poor taste, and sometimes the death of the plant.

central region	Siberia	Far East	Leningrad region, North-West region
Pink sunset	Tyutchevka	Sakhalinskaya	Leningradskaya black
And the way	Symphony	Rechitsa	Zorka
Italian	Revna	Ordynka	Revna
Beauty Zhukova	Bryansk pink	Bigarro Bulat	Bryanochka
Valery Chkalov	Fatezh	Francis	Bryansk pink
Teremoshka	Northern	Dragana yellow	Rechitsa
Revna	In memory of Astakhov	Ariadne	Teremoshka
Bryanochka	Kozlovskaya Michurina	Sweet pink	Fatezh

No special zoned varieties have been bred for the Leningrad region and the North-Western regions; gardeners successfully grow the most frost-resistant and unpretentious varieties intended for the Urals and Siberia.

Now 2 varieties are being developed for this region - Seda and Yurga. A serious disadvantage for growing cherries in these areas is the cold winds from the Baltic Sea.

Planting dates for different regions

Requirements for soil and planting site

The soil for cherries should have a breathable structure, well heated, moderately moist, and slightly acidic.

The groundwater level is very important, since already at a level of 1.5 m from the surface of the ground gum begins to flow and the cherry dies. It is preferable to plant it on loam, rich, are absolutely not suitable peat soils, clay, sand.

It is better to choose a planting site for cherries on the southern and southeastern slopes, well warmed by the sun. Lowlands from which water does not drain for a long time are not suitable for it; in addition, it must be protected from northern winds.

Soil preparation

When planting in the fall, the soil is completely dug up 2-3 weeks before planting, adding humus at the rate of 10 kg per 1 sq. m. meter.

When planting in the spring, the soil is prepared in the fall by digging it up and adding fertilizer. Many gardeners prepare planting holes in the fall.

If the land on your site is not suitable for planting cherries, then this can be corrected. Sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil. Additionally, add soil mixture, which is sold in specialized stores, manure or humus. The soil is dug up and after a few years it is ready for planting cherries.

Light mode

Cherry is very demanding on light conditions. It feels good next to low-growing trees, forming a crown in the middle and upper tier for better absorption of sunlight.

Shading of cherries in orchards with tall fruit trees leads to the fact that fruiting switches to the upper branches, the fruits become smaller and their number decreases. For cherries, it is better to choose an open, sunny and warm place. For better crown lighting, annual pruning is used.

1. High air humidity is contraindicated for cherries; the fruits begin to crack and rot, but excessively high dryness leads to the fact that the leaves begin to fall off.
2. Cherry does not tolerate proximity to walnuts, rowan berries, pears, peaches, and black currants. Apple, plum and cherry trees are recommended as neighbors.
3. The distance between trees should be at least 4-5 meters, due to the highly developed root system of the surface.
4. Once every 5 years, the soil around the cherry tree must be limed.
5. Do not buy 3-year-old seedlings, they practically do not take root.

When planting cherries, care must be taken to protect them from birds. Otherwise, most of the berries will be pecked and not suitable for use. To do this, many people hang shiny, rustling foil ribbons or old computer disks on the tree. As a rule, this does not help, therefore, it is necessary to prepare a mesh net (50x50 mm) in advance and throw it over the cherries during the period of fruit ripening.

Preparing the planting hole

Early planting can destroy the seedling due to recurrent frosts, and delay can lead to prolonged survival due to high sun activity. The best time is mid-April, before the buds begin to awaken.

Preparation instructions:

1. The hole for planting cherries should be 80 cm wide by 100 cm and 70 cm deep; narrowing the hole downward is unacceptable. With such dimensions of the hole, the root system should fit freely in it. A stake is driven in nearby - a support up to 80 cm high for tying the seedling.
2. The planting hole is filled with a nutrient mixture to 1/3 depth: 2 parts of the top layer of soil; 1 part humus; 1 part peat; 100g superphosphate; 50g potassium sulphide;

You can use another composition for the mixture: 2 buckets of compost, 1 kg of ash and 400 g of superphosphate. Nitrogen fertilizers are not added to avoid root burns.

The pit is filled with the mixture 10 days before planting, mixed, the composition should settle.

Preparing a seedling before planting

It depends on the selection and preparation of the seedling further development plants:

1. The seedling must be grafted and have a strong trunk that dominates the side branches.
2. You should not buy a seedling with a forked trunk; under the weight of the fruits, they may break in the future.
3. It should have a developed root system without defects, with roots 15 cm long. If the cut of the root has a brown tint, then this is a sign of frostbite.
4. A day before planting, the seedling is placed in a bucket of water to activate the root system.
5. Before planting the seedling in the planting hole, cut off the damaged roots.
6. Long roots are trimmed, since the root system must completely enter the planting hole.
7. Before planting, remove all leaves, otherwise the seedling will dehydrate.

Step-by-step planting instructions

1. Pour a bucket of water into the planting hole.
2. Place the seedling in the recess of the hole next to the support; the neck of the seedling should be 4-5 cm above ground level.
3. Cover the roots with soil.
4. Compact the top layer and secure the seedling to the support with soft tape. The figure-of-eight loop is made loose so as not to damage the tree bark.
5. Make a circular depression around the perimeter of the hole for watering.
6. Pour out 2 buckets of water, make sure that after the soil settles, the root collar is at ground level.
7. Trim the main trunk to 80 cm, and the side branches to 50 cm. This is necessary to form the correct crown.
8. It is advisable to plant cherries in cloudy weather.
9. Seedlings take root best when they are 1-2 years old.
10. To attract bees, mustard is planted next to the cherry tree; experienced gardeners spray the tree with a solution of water and honey.

Further care for cherries

Watering

Cherries require watering 3 times per season: in May during the period of growth of green mass, before flowering, in June, when the fruits begin to ripen, and before winter.

20 days before harvest, watering is stopped, otherwise the fruits will crack and rot. Watering is carried out to a depth of up to 40 cm, and pre-winter - up to 70-80 cm. In dry weather, the frequency of watering is increased. In the second half of summer, watering is not recommended, as this reduces the tree's frost resistance.

Top dressing

Fertilizing should not be applied in the first year, since the seedling received all the necessary substances during planting. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied during the 2nd year of tree growth. In the spring, 120 g of urea should be scattered around the perimeter of the tree trunk, embedded in moist soil.

In the fourth year of growth, the roots will extend beyond the trunk circle, so fertilizers are applied further from the trunk into the furrows made. In the spring, 120-200 g of urea are placed in moist soil, at the end of summer - 400 g of superphosphate and 100 g of potassium sulfate.

The width of the trunk circle is increased to 1 meter in the second year, and 50 cm is added every year. Cherry trees respond well to additional fertilizing with ash.

Throughout the summer until autumn, weeding and loosening of the tree trunk circle is necessary, since cherries cannot tolerate being in the vicinity of weeds.

Crown formation, pruning

Cherries require mandatory annual pruning, otherwise good harvest will not be. It comes in 3 types: formative - in spring, sanitary - in autumn, and rejuvenating when the tree ages. For all options, it is mandatory to remove branches 40 cm from the ground. When pruning, the cut areas are treated with garden varnish.

Formative pruning creates the correct crown, this is especially important for young cherries. Before the buds open, shorten the main trunk and upper branches by 1/3 of the length, cut out the branches growing inward, leaving only those that grow at an angle of 45 degrees in relation to the trunk from the side shoots.

This type of pruning is called cupping. It provides good lighting for the tree, stimulates fruiting and simplifies harvesting.

Sanitary pruning involves removing dried, broken, diseased branches.

Rejuvenating pruning helps cherries to restore productivity

Diseases of young cherries

Sweet cherries are quite resistant to diseases, but there are exceptions. Verticillium is a fungal disease for many stone fruit crops; it is also dangerous for cherries.

First, the bark bursts, then the flowers fall off, the leaves turn yellow and gum appears on the trunk. You can use drugs such as Polychrome, Fundazol, Topsin. Clean the cracks and cover them with clay containing 2% copper sulfate. But, as a rule, treatment is ineffective; the tree dies within a year.

During a cold and rainy spring, cherry trees may be damaged by bacteriosis (tree cancer). It is not possible to save cherries; scientists have not yet created a remedy against this disease. The tree must be cut down and burned.

Errors during cultivation

Error	Cause
Buds do not bloom in a timely manner	The root collar is buried during planting
Reset of ovary and foliage	Untimely watering during the growing season
Freezing of a tree	Incorrect variety selected for this region
There is no regular and abundant harvest	No annual pruning
Lack of fruits	No cross pollination
Cracking of trunk bark	Sunburn, the trunk was not whitewashed in spring and autumn
Gum discharge, tree death	Rocks, gravel in the soil, diseases
Yellowing, purplish coloring of leaves after planting	Irrigation with cold water from wells
No side branching	The trunk was not trimmed during planting

Cherries are not only tasty, they are also very healthy.

It regulates cardiac activity, “fights” anemia, helps improve immunity and lowers blood sugar levels, improves vision and relieves irritability.

Women especially value cherries for their properties to rejuvenate the skin, relieve swelling, and the ability to use them in various diets.

Growing cherries is a labor-intensive process, but the tree will thank you with a bountiful harvest.

Fruit trees (cherry, apricot, peach and others) are particularly demanding of climatic conditions and soil.

Despite this, there are many varieties of stone fruits that do well not only in southern regions, but also in cooler climates. In central Russia, growing cherries is not at all difficult if you provide the tree with proper care.

Compliance with certain rules will help not only to get a healthy, strong tree, but also to increase its productivity. Thanks to the large selection of cherry varieties, you can choose the most suitable for any climate zone.

If you follow the advice of care experts, growing this fruit tree will not cause much trouble. A few simple secrets will help you grow a magnificent cherry orchard and get an excellent harvest in just a few years.

When choosing seedlings for growing in a garden or country house, it is very important to pay attention to the zoning of variety and species. Southern varieties may not tolerate frost and die, so it is best to pay attention to breeding varieties.

Bred specifically for the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow, Tula, Ivanovo and other regions), cherry varieties have all the necessary qualities to obtain a good harvest.

Factors to pay attention to when purchasing a seedling:

• Frost resistance level. The higher this indicator, the better.
• Tallness. U low growing plants lower chance of freezing. These varieties are also characterized by high productivity.
• Timing of flowering and fruit set. It is recommended to choose seedlings of not too early varieties. This reduces the risk of freezing during spring frosts.
• The need for pollination. It is recommended to give preference to self-fertile varieties. Even when planting one plant, there is no need for cross-pollination, so you can get a good, abundant harvest.

Taking into account all the factors, as well as the characteristics of the soil and the size of the plot, you can decide on the most suitable varieties of cherries for growing in the garden.

"Adeline"

The medium-ripening variety is perfect for growing in small garden plots. The tree grows up to 3 meters in height, has a comfortable pyramidal crown and does not thicken. Productivity of "Adeline" is above average - healthy mature tree produces up to 60 kg of juicy berries.

The advantage of this variety is its good winter hardiness and disease resistance. With good care, cherries very rarely become ill with coccomycosis and moniliosis. In dry summers it may be vulnerable to pests.

The first fruits appear in the 4th year of the seedling’s life. The yield will increase as the cherries mature to 45-60 kg. The heart-shaped berries have an average size weighing 5-6 g. The pulp is juicy red and easily separates from the seed.

The cherry variety "Adeline" takes root well in the Middle Zone and in the climate of the Central Black Earth Region. For planting, it is recommended to choose 2-3 year old seedlings - this will ensure their better survival rate and reduce the risk of contracting diseases from other fruit crops.

"Gronkavaya"

The medium-sized variety is characterized by high yield and increased resistance to disease. Excellent for growing in large gardens. The “Gronkavaya” cherry was bred by Belarusian breeders from the “Severnaya” variety.

The large, dark red fruits are quite shelf-stable and easily transported. Suitable for universal use.

Due to the fact that the variety calmly tolerates even very low temperatures, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone and other regions with cold climates.

Varietal characteristics and features:

• High yield (up to 70 kg per mature tree);
• Winter hardiness index - above average;
• Early ripening, self-fertility, high disease resistance.

Care requirements:

• Since the tree is tall with a spreading crown, it is recommended for growing in large areas. To obtain maximum yield, it is advisable to provide good lighting and regular soil moisture.

"I put"

The cultivation of Iput cherries in the Middle Zone and the Central region began in the early 90s. The variety was obtained by crossing the hybrid forms “Leningradskaya Chernaya”, “Pobeda” and “Zhabule No. 15”.

Thanks to excellent varietal characteristics and easy care, has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Medium-sized trees have high yields and are capable of producing more than 90 kg of juicy berries.

Sweet cherries have large, juicy, dark red fruits. The stalk is short, thick, the stone is separated with part of the pulp. The average weight of berries is 6-7 g, can reach 9 g. The pulp is juicy, sweet, of medium density.

Caring for and growing cherries of this variety does not require special skills or conditions. Due to its high winter hardiness and resistance to coccomycosis, it is excellent for growing in the Middle Zone.

Planting seedlings

The place for planting cherry seedlings should be prepared in advance. A well-lit place, protected from drafts, is selected on the site. In the autumn, even before the onset of frost, a hole is dug 70 by 70 cm or more, depending on the growth of the selected variety.

It is advisable to plant several seedlings at once different varieties, but at the same flowering time, so that they are natural pollinators of each other.

The soil should be fertile, light, well permeable to moisture. The most suitable areas are with loamy or sandy soil. It is not advisable to plant any variety of cherries on clay or peaty soil!

Drainage is poured into the bottom of the hole prepared for planting to avoid stagnation of the inputs. A third of the hole is filled with a soil mixture of fertile soil and humus. In this form, the planting hole remains until spring - the most optimal time for planting cherries in the Middle Zone.

In early spring, when there is no longer any danger of frost, fertilizers are added to the hole and mixed well with fertile soil. 2-3 year old seedlings are planted so that the root neck protrudes several centimeters above ground level.

After planting the tree, the soil is compacted and watered abundantly. For better survival of cherries, the top of the soil is covered with mulch.

Caring for young and mature trees

Young seedlings should be pruned immediately after planting (at approximately 100 cm height). Next season, side shoots will develop from dormant buds to form a crop.

In the 2nd year after planting, the tree is pruned by about 1/3, leaving only well-developed skeletal branches at a level of 90-110 cm. In the next season, the crown is formed depending on the plant variety.

The most important condition for caring for cherries is proper watering. It is very important to provide the tree with moderate moisture so that it develops properly and to avoid the development of diseases.

Stagnation of moisture can be detrimental to the plant, so in case of high groundwater, it is recommended to choose varieties with a small root system. Most optimal solution There will be columnar and ornamental trees.

Conclusion

• Proper planting and caring for cherries may require additional effort. Cherries are heat-loving plants, so if necessary, the root system should be covered for the winter. To prevent the tree from dying, preference should be given to varieties that are not too early, frost-resistant.
• Experienced gardeners know how cherries grow in different conditions and are able to provide the tree with proper care. For beginning gardeners, the first years of a plant’s life in a garden or garden plot will require some effort. To grow cherries in the conditions of the Middle Zone, give preference to self-fertile varieties with high resistance to diseases.
• Adult plants, just like young seedlings, require good and proper care. If you do not prune on time, do not apply fertilizers, or skip covering for the winter, the yield may be significantly reduced and the cherry may become diseased.