Touch hob instructions. Self-connection of an electric hob

Connection hob to mains: 3 stages

With the right approach, it is quite possible to connect the hob to the electrical network yourself Electric hobs are very popular. They are safe, economical and very easy to operate. However, buying a high-quality electrical panel will cost you a considerable amount. Due to such a high cost, not everyone can decide on the additional services of a specialist for connecting a hob. If you are confident in your abilities and are ready to try connecting the hob to the electrical network without outside help, then today you will learn about all the nuances of this important work.

Safety rules when connecting a hob

Connecting a hob to the electrical network is a very responsible task that requires maximum concentration. How long your new purchase will last depends on how accurately you follow all safety rules and regulations.

First of all, you need to make sure that the wiring in the kitchen is in satisfactory condition. If you neglect this step, then in a few months you may end up with a new, but faulty hob. The fact is that if the wiring is bad, the stove will constantly be disconnected from the power supply, knocking out the plugs, which will quickly become unusable.

When connecting the hob to the network, do not forget to turn off the circuit breakers in the electrical panel.


When connecting the hob, it is imperative to adhere to safety rules

It is necessary to lay separate lines from the input distribution panel to connect powerful electric stoves. If you do not have the opportunity to do this, then you should refuse to connect a powerful stove.

The cross-section of copper conductors should not be less than 4 sq. mm. It is also necessary to make grounding. If this is not done, the device may turn into a life-threatening object. For added safety, an automatic shut-off device can be installed.

You can connect the hob with a wire that goes directly from the shield to the terminals. Electrical wiring can be open or closed. In the first case, the wires go directly along the wall, in the second they are hidden in it.

Choosing a fork for the hob

If you expect to frequently move the stove and disconnect it from the power supply, then you will need a special outlet. You also need to purchase a device such as a plug.

The plug connection must be selected depending on the rated current. For a single-phase network, the power outlet must have three terminals, and for a three-phase network, five.


Before connecting the hob, experts recommend first choosing the right plug

Sockets and plugs for powerful electrical appliances are made of special plastic. Sometimes they have a lid. Sockets for single phase and three-phase network will differ significantly. For single-phase, you need a 32A installation, and for three-phase 16A.

The appearance and structure of the socket and plug are not particularly important. However, it is very important that it can withstand the flow of current.

General purpose sockets should not be used. They will not be able to withstand the current required for the hob, and sooner or later they will catch fire.

The hob cord should be long enough to easily reach the outlet. It is also necessary that this cable be flexible enough and have the same number of cores as the number of cores in the wiring. To strengthen small wires in the cable, use a sleeve insulated pin lug.

How to connect a single-phase hob to electricity

The most questions arise when connecting an electric hob to a 220 V network. Usually an electric hob, for example, Hans, has 6 wires, while in the house there are only three wires. However, this problem can be easily dealt with by installing special jumpers. They can come as a set. If there are none, then you will have to make them yourself using special clamps.


In order to correctly connect a single-phase hob, it is better to read the detailed instructions

Connecting the hob to electricity:

  1. Locate the cover on the back of the panel. Open it with a screwdriver, under the cover you will find the terminals.
  2. If there are 6 of them, and there are 3 wires in the apartment, then you need to combine the contacts. To do this, you need to combine three phase wires together, then two neutrals, and leave the ground on its own. Sometimes equipment it's already underway with jumpers installed, in this case you connect to the power cord to groups of contacts: one to phase, one to neutral and yellow-green to ground.
  3. You can see the connection of a hob with three wires to the network in the diagram. In this case, the ground wire must be connected to the top of the outlet, and the phase must correspond to the wiring of the wires in the outlet.

If you connect the stove in an apartment where there are only two wires in the wiring, then you will need to install a separate grounding circuit. If this is not done, the warranty on the device will no longer apply, and you will have to deal with any breakdown, even a manufacturing defect, yourself.

Also, sometimes you may be faced with the need to connect the panel to a 380 volt network. However, such wiring is extremely rare.

Connecting an Electrolux hob 4 wires

Some models of hobs from Electrolux, Bosch, Hansa, Gorenje have a four-wire wire. Therefore, it can be very difficult to decide where to connect them if there are only 3 wires in the apartment.

Electrolux brand hobs already come with a wire. This makes the installation process easier, but in this case you need correct scheme connections.


Using special instructions, you can connect the Electrolux hob with your own hands

A four-core cable consists of the following wires: neutral, ground and two phases. To properly connect the wire to the hob, you need to know some nuances.

Installing a 4-wire hob:

  1. Find the location where the terminals are located. They are usually located on the back of the case. Unlike Bosch brand panels, Electrolux has plastic case. To open it, you just need to pry off the cover with a screwdriver.
  2. Look for the ground output in the open box; it is usually yellow-green in color. Near this output there should be a jumper for two wires. Phase wires are inserted into it; they are black and brown. To do this, you need to check the screws with a screwdriver, insert a jumper and tighten everything.
  3. When connecting the plug, you will only need to use the brown wire, and the black one will need to be insulated with a heat pipe.

All further actions, when you connect two-phase equipment, are made in exactly the same way as you would connect a single-phase electrical panel.

How to connect an induction hob

Connecting an induction hob is not difficult. Of course, there are connection nuances for equipment with different numbers of wires. Let's talk about the main points of such work.


If you cannot connect the hob yourself, then you need to contact a specialist

Tips for connecting an induction hob:

  1. Determine how many wires there are in your apartment.
  2. Open the access panel on the back of the panel. Unscrew its cover using a screwdriver. Locate the terminals.
  3. If necessary, combine the wires into required amount groups. The phases are combined into one group, the neutrals into another, and the ground must pass separately.
  4. Next, the panel wires are connected to the corresponding pins of the plug.

Connecting induction cookers, compared to gas ones, is a completely simple task. Due to the fact that there is no combustion in such models, you can use them without fear for your safety.

Connecting an induction hob yourself (video)

Which of the connection methods we described you will need to use depends on the type of panel and type of wiring. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to entrust such work to electricians.

When purchasing a kitchen free-standing electric stove, in most cases, to connect it, you just need to plug the plug into the outlet. But many people do not buy full set, but only its upper part is the hob.

We suggest you consider how to connect the hob Electrolux (Electrolux), Zanussi, Bosch (Bosch), Gorenje, Hansa, Samsung (Samsung), Siemens, Ariston and others with your own hands, as well as the cost of such connection in specialized companies.

Panel connection theory

A built-in hob is connected to a separate line with an outlet capable of withstanding a current of 32 to 40 A and providing reliable grounding. The supply cable contains three copper wires with a cross-section of at least 4 mm². Modern electrical wiring in the apartment also allows you to connect to a four-wire power cable.

Sockets for connecting panels are of two types:

If you independently connect the hob with the existing plug at the end of the cable, it will not be difficult. But to connect a cable from a stove to the power supply network, where there is no plug at the end, you already need some knowledge.

For example, a cable with four wires comes out of the panel, but only three power wires come out of the wall. This means that the panel needs a two-phase connection, but the apartment only has one.

IN in this case The technology is this: the brown and black wires from the cable from the hob are twisted together and connected to the phase wire, the power line, which comes out of the wall. The blue wire of the cable (neutral) is connected to the neutral power wire. A yellow-green protective ground wire remains; it is connected to the same ground wire in the power line.

In the event that wires of the same color come out of the wall, using a multimeter you need to find out which of them is zero and which is phase, and determine the integrity of the grounding conductor. The resulting wire connection must be insulated.

Before connecting a hob that already has a plug on the cable, be sure to check the correspondence of the power wires and the contacts inside the socket. Sometimes they may differ. To do this, the socket is disassembled and the connection is determined using a multimeter; if necessary, the wires are swapped.

  1. Connecting an electric hob involves installing a separate circuit breaker and RCD; these devices are selected with the following calculation: for a 16 A socket, a circuit breaker with a current of 25 A is required, and an RCD from 40 A. Simultaneous use of the panel power line to connect several power devices is unacceptable.
  2. The body of the hob must be grounded, not to the body or wire from another device, but to the outlet terminal, with a separate wire from the panel.
  3. Most manufacturers already sell equipment that is equipped with a protective grounding bus; it just needs to be connected to the grounding wire in the apartment.

Induction hob: connecting step by step

Connecting an induction hob to the network is not fundamentally different from installing a conventional hob; to verify this, step-by-step instructions are provided below. Let's look at how to connect the induction panel to the power supply.


Photo: installation of an induction panel

Step 1. There are 2 types of power cords: three-core, an early version, and four-core, more new option. To connect the built-in panel, you need to purchase a power cord that will match your power outlet in the kitchen.

Step 2: Open the connection cover. Search on back side panel is a rectangle covered with a metal plate. Unscrew it with a screwdriver.


Step 3. Connect the cord and terminals.

After removing the back cover, you need to find the device terminals. First, insert the cable clamp into the hole. We hold the cord with a plate. This is necessary to avoid the wire falling out. Then run the cord through the cable clamp. Don't tighten the screws yet.


Step 4. Remove the copper strip.

You need to find the wires right above the hole. If you are connecting an old-style induction cooker, then there should be three wires, if new model, then there will be four wires: two phase, one neutral and one ground.

The neutral terminal is located in the center, the phase wires are on either side of it, and the ground terminal is at the bottom. Before you start connecting the wires, you need to check if there is a copper jumper connecting the neutral and ground wires. If you find it, just disconnect it.

Step 5: Connect the wires.

Align the wires with the terminals. The cable is connected to the panel using the brown phase wire and the neutral wire. of blue color and a yellow-green ground wire.

To connect the wires, you will need to unscrew the terminal connection screws and install the wire in their place.

We make the grounding connection first; this is the yellow-green wire. Then neutrals ( blue wire). After this we connect the phase wire Brown to one of the two phase terminals. Between the two phase terminals we install a copper jumper, which we removed from the neutral wire. This connection is suitable for apartments where a supply voltage of 220 V is used. Tighten the screws securing the supply cable.

Check the strength of all connections, otherwise the machine will not withstand and you will need to repair not only the induction panel terminal block, but also all the wiring.

Step 6: Tighten the power cable.

After connecting, check whether the power cable is tight; it should not hang, but you should not overtighten it either.

Step 7 Turn on the induction hob.

After connecting the power cable and supplying voltage to it, turn on the panel and check its functionality in accordance with the passport data.

For proper operation and convenient control induction panel used electronic system control, unlike a gas hob, where adjustment is carried out by mechanical rotation shut-off valve. This solution is quite convenient and functional. You can monitor the mode of each cooking sector of the panel in real time.

Video: installing and connecting the hob

The price for connecting a hob to the apartment's power supply in specialized stores in cities such as Minsk, Moscow, Omsk, Orenburg, Penza, Samara can vary from 500 to several thousand rubles, depending on the city and the complexity of the work. But, as you can see, connecting this equipment yourself does not require special knowledge and can easily be done using a photo, even without experience.

Built-in hobs are confidently displacing traditional gas and electric stoves from the market and our kitchens. This is due to the fact that this type household appliances has become more economical, functional, easy to operate and has received modern design. Hobs can be installed separately from oven or in one block, combine them (the top is gas, and the bottom is electric, and vice versa). Self-installation This technique does not present any problems, however, it has its own nuances. In this article we will tell you how to connect the hob to the mains.

Read in the article

Main technical characteristics affecting the methods of connecting household appliances

When choosing hobs, most buyers pay little attention to power requirements. However, this is the most important characteristic, since when installing modern household appliances, for example, in houses old building, problems often arise with . Therefore, it is better to immediately lay a separate line with a wire of the appropriate cross-section and a protective device. Also important is the number of phases in the house (1, 2 or 3) and the presence of a grounding loop. Cooking surfaces are divided according to the type of heating element:

  • heating elements;
  • induction;
  • gas;
  • combined (gas and electric burners).


The nuances of connecting built-in kitchen stoves of different types

A built-in hob, including a gas one, is connected to a separate dedicated power line with a socket that can withstand a current of 32-40 A. The cable used must have three copper wires with a cross-section of at least 4 mm2. In city apartments, gas or combined hobs are mainly used. Induction or heating elements panels are usually installed in houses where there is no possibility of connecting to a gas main.



Important! Regardless of the type of built-in hob, when connecting it, the electrical network of the room must be de-energized!

Connecting an electric stove

If you have even minimal knowledge in electrical engineering and follow safety precautions, connecting the hob yourself will not be difficult. Before installing equipment, you must first mark the countertop, connect a separate power line with grounding, and only then proceed with installation and connection to the network. In the instructions that come with household appliances, there is a diagram on how to connect the hob to the electrical network.



A comment

Ask a Question

“Before carrying out any work with electricity (wiring installation, repairs, connections, etc.), it is necessary to de-energize the room from the electrical distribution panel in order to avoid electric shock, short circuit and equipment breakdown.”

We present to your attention a video showing how to install a hob into a countertop.

How to connect an induction hob

The principle of connecting an induction hob is practically no different from installing a conventional electric model. We offer step by step instructions for installing this type of kitchen appliances. First you need to prepare all the necessary tools:

  1. Tape measure, ruler, square.
  2. Electric drill or with drill Æ 10 mm.
  3. Installation syringe with silicone.
  4. Cable.
  5. Fork.
  6. Pliers, side cutters.
  7. Set of screwdrivers and wrenches.


Tools required to install the hob

First, mark the countertop in accordance with the dimensions specified in the instructions for the hob. Then we drill four holes in the corners and use a jigsaw to cut out the opening. We lubricate the edges of the cut well with silicone to prevent swelling in case of moisture.





Let's look at this procedure in more detail. First of all, it is necessary to draw a separate power line from the switchboard and make a socket box.

Illustration Description of action


The height from the floor surface should not exceed 900 mm. If it is impossible to do hidden wiring The cable can be laid in a special mounting box.


We take the cable from the hob to the electrical panel and connect it to a separate circuit breaker and ground loop.


We install the socket box and strip the ends of the wires.


We insert the stripped wires into the socket terminals and clamp the contacts.


We install the socket in the socket box.


Connect the hob plug in a similar way. We observe the pairing of wires, i.e. if the brown wire (“phase”) on the socket is connected on the left, and the blue (“zero”) on the right, then the same arrangement must be observed on the plug.


Since we connect the hob to a single-phase 220 V network, we select the top circuit engraved on the surface of the device.


Using copper or brass jumpers supplied with the panel, we connect contacts 1, 2 and 3 – “phase” and 4, 5 – “zero”. We connect the wires to the terminals in accordance with the color designation.


Close the terminal box on the hob.


We install the hob in the cutout, apply power and check the operation of the device. At this point, the installation and connection of the hob can be considered complete.

Connecting a gas hob

When marking a cutout for gas household appliances, it should be taken into account that there must be at least 55 mm from the wall to the edge of the appliance. The insertion into the countertop of the cabinet for the hob occurs in exactly the same way as in the cases described above. Connection to gas pipe should be carried out by an employee of the relevant service, unless, of course, you want to subsequently pay a substantial fine and receive an order for dismantling. But you can do the electrical part yourself.



A comment

Electrician 5th category LLC "Petrocom"

Ask a Question

“If you decide to connect the gas hob to the pipe yourself, make sure in the old fashioned way (soap suds on the connection) that there are no gas leaks anywhere and all the nuts are well tightened.”

Hob connection diagrams

Manufacturers of hobs produce models that can be connected to electrical networks with a different number of phases. On the territory of Russia and post-Soviet space There are two standards: a single-phase network for 220 V, rarely - a two-phase network for 220 V and a three-phase network for 380 V. Electrical wiring in houses may have, depending on the number of phases and years of construction of the houses, a different number of wires and colors. For example:

  1. Single-phase network at 220 V:
    two conductors of the same color(usually in old houses). “Phase” or “zero” will have to be looked for with an indicator or tester;
    in new houses they use colored wiring, where “phase” (L) is indicated by a brown or red wire, “zero” (N) by blue or cyan, and ground (PE) by yellow-green. In old buildings, the wiring is the same color, so you will have to use a probe to determine the neutral.
  2. Two-phase network for 220 V. Found only in new buildings and then rarely. “Phases” are indicated by black and brown wires, “zero” by blue, and “ground” by yellow-green.
  3. Three-phase network at 380 V. In this case, “zero” and “ground” have a traditional color, and the “phases” according to one standard are white, black, brown, according to another - yellow, red and green wire.

Due to these nuances, hobs are usually supplied without power cord. Therefore, in addition to the wire for a dedicated power line, you will need to buy a cable to connect the built-in stove to an outlet.



How to connect an electric stove: diagram for a single-phase network

In principle, connecting the hob to a household electrical outlet with a voltage of 220 V is not difficult. On the back side of the stove you need to remove the cover, which is secured with latches or screws. Having removed it, we will find terminals for connecting the network cable (usually 6 pieces).



Terminals Nos. 1, 2 and 3 are for the phase wire (L), Nos. 4 and 5 are neutral (N), and the ground terminal (PE) is marked with a special symbol. But what if the dedicated power line has 3 wires and 6 connectors for connection? For such cases, as a rule, copper or brass jumpers are included. If you don’t have them, you can make them yourself from copper wire with a cross-section of 6 mm2. We install jumpers as shown in the figure below and connect network cable.



Connection diagram of the hob to a single-phase 220 V network

How to connect an electric hob with two phases

Two-phase hobs are rare, but in this case there are no connection problems. Just follow the connection diagram below exactly. Before applying voltage to the device, you must once again check that the wiring in the socket or wiring box matches the wiring in the plug. Brass jumper (usually supplied with hob)

How to connect your own electric stove to a three-phase network

Three-phase power is mainly used in country cottages, and to power the hob you will need a five-core cable with a cross-section of each conductor of at least 2.5 mm2. The connection is practically no different from the previous options and is performed as follows:

  1. Phase wires L1, L2 and L3 are clamped in terminals Nos. 1, 2 and 3, respectively.
  2. Terminals Nos. 4 and 5 are connected to each other by a copper or brass jumper, and the neutral wire N is connected to one of them.
  3. The corresponding PE ground wire is connected to terminal No. 6.

If the wires in the network and input cables are colored, then when connecting we simply follow their combination. If the house is old and the wiring is the same color, then you need to be careful and use an indicator or tester to determine the phase wires.



Electrical safety requirements when connecting an oven and hob

Before choosing a hob, you should decide on a number of issues. It is necessary to correctly calculate the electrical wiring, purchase sockets, plugs and cables for the hob that can withstand significant loads, as well as residual current devices. In old houses, the wiring is practically not designed for the number and power of household appliances that are in every modern apartment. Therefore, very often, if the wrong approach is used during operation of the hob, the input circuit breaker constantly trips, and when installing an RCD with an overrated rating, the wires begin to get very hot, which causes a fire. In addition, the distribution board must have a grounding loop, although many people ignore the need to connect to it.



Since the power of hobs and ovens reaches up to 7 kW, experts strongly recommend laying a separate line equipped protective devices. Therefore, if it is not possible to modernize the old household electrical network and lay a separate cable, then it is better to refrain from purchasing powerful household appliances. Below we will look at what cable is needed to connect the hob and the types of connections, as well as the requirements for plugs and sockets.



Hob fork

To connect hobs, plugs with sockets, sleeve connections and mounting boxes are used. Most convenient option in terms of operation and maintenance - a plug. So, for example, during wet cleaning it is necessary to de-energize the electric hob and with a direct connection you will need to constantly go to switchboard to turn off the machine.



Good afternoon

Today we will talk about connecting a powerful modern hob to a ready-made cable outlet. Due to their high power, connecting such panels (often their power exceeds 6-7 kW) requires a separate line laid with a cable of at least 6 sq. mm (10 mm2 line options are rarely found).

There are two main ways to connect the hob:

1. Directly, that is, when laying, a reserve is left power cable, which is connected directly to the terminal block of the hob, or to a wire (depending on the model, hobs have either a terminal block or a wire).

2. Through a special power outlet rated, for example, 32 amperes:


Due to the high price of such sockets and plugs, the fact that the hob never turns off (and if it breaks, the socket does not provide any advantages - the stove can be turned off from the terminal block), the first method is most widespread. Let's consider it.

I bring out such a cable using a deep socket box and a plug, for example, from the Etika series from Legrand, which allows you to arrange the hob cable outlet and the oven socket side by side in one frame.


And, of course, there are some nuances here. Hobs have either a terminal block or an outlet in the form of a flexible terminated wire. Often this wire is not part of the hob structure and can be disconnected from the terminal block without voiding the cooktop warranty. This was the case with the panel mentioned in the article.

In addition, almost all panels are designed for both single-phase and multi-phase (usually two-phase connection), and, judging by the designs of the panels, the manufacturer considers multi-phase connection as the main one, which in Russian apartment buildings is quite rare.

The consequence of this is that power cable manufacturers use 4 cores of 4 squares each and a panel junction box designed specifically for such a cable. Here is the cable, already disconnected from the hob:

The figure shows two-phase and single-phase connection diagrams for a Zanussi hob.


In the single-phase version, you need to connect a 6 mm2 cable to the panel, and this is where problems arise. The fact is that all cables intended for stationary installation (for example, VVGng-ls) have cores of flexibility class 1 according to GOST 22483-2012 (hereinafter referred to as monocores). Cables that have flexible (that is, having a flexibility class of 3 and higher according to GOST 22483-2012) conductors are not intended for stationary installation and have a short service life (that is, wiring with PVS or SHVVP wire is an obvious hack).

If the panel is equipped only with a terminal block, without a cable, it is extremely difficult to insert three 6 mm2 monocores into the junction box and connect there, and in addition, it is dangerous due to the rigidity of the cores - if bent, they can easily break the panel terminal block. If the cable is insulated and well made, it will not fit into the junction box at all.

It is extremely inconvenient to bend a monocore in a narrow space; it will “spring”, and if the outer insulation of the cable is not removed, then this is generally not easy. It should be understood that usually the oven is located under the hob and the distance from its back wall to the wall or back wall of the kitchen is very small.

If there is a “tail” wire, it must also be somehow connected to the power cable so that the connection is reliable, has low transition resistance, can withstand high currents and does not require periodic checking.

One solution is to disconnect the standard four-core cable (in this stove model it can be disconnected) and connect the hob with a flexible PugV wire and switch to a monocore supply cable using a high-quality permanent connection (pressure testing), which is discussed in this article.

The wire used is PugV 1x6 mm2 produced by the Kolchugino plant, purchased from Elektromontazh.

First, the PuGV wire is stretched a little in order to straighten it after not quite correct twisting in Electrical Installation:


The “curls” are cut off, leaving straight veins. Red was chosen as the color of the phase wire as it attracts attention and signals danger.

Next, the flexible wire for connection to the terminal block must be terminated. Typically, such a wire is terminated with SHNV or NShVI lugs (picture taken from techelectro.ru):
NShV/NSHVI are good when you need to connect a wire to a full-fledged terminal block, such as, for example, in circuit breaker or a screw / spring terminal, that is, where the tip is pressed evenly over the entire area.

In a hob, this is not entirely true - in all the panels I have seen, the core is clamped with a screw and a washer, and the washer does not cover the entire area of ​​the tip.

In the case of using NShVI or NShV, the result is approximately the following:


The pressure washer greatly deforms the NShVI at the point of contact, which is not at all good. And this is especially bad since the tip also usually presses the jumper between adjacent terminals. Therefore, the tip at the connection point must be rigid, have a small thickness and a large surface area.

These conditions are most fully met by flat insulated pin tips of the NSHPI type (picture taken from the website www.fortisflex.ru):

Unfortunately, due to their size, NSHPs do not fit into junction box most hobs, so they have to be “finished”, namely shortening the pin and cutting off part of the “skirt”.

The pin is cut to the length of the crimped old hob cable.


The “skirt” is cut in the same way:


The NSHPI is put on and crimped. Please note that usually the NSHPI is crimped with a double oval, but due to the shortening of the “skirt” it is necessary to use a matrix with indentation at a point.


Next, jumpers are installed, set according to a single-phase circuit, and the terminated wires are screwed in with a torque screwdriver. Unfortunately, I did not find recommended tightening torques for screws on Zanussi hobs, so the screwdriver was set to the standard torque for terminal blocks - 2 nm.


Here's what we ended up with:

Next, we take GML sleeves produced by the KVT plant:


Since in this apartment the power cable for the hob has a cross-section of 10 mm2 (and not 6, as is usually done), the sleeves had to be taken with a cross-section of 10 mm2. Despite the fact that the PUGV for connection to the hob has a cross-section of 6 mm2. Therefore, when crimping, the sleeve must be “stuffed” to the desired cross-section. PUGV 1.5 mm2 cores folded in three are used as “packing”.

GML crimping with “stuffing”:


After cutting off the “stuffing” wire, you get a ready-to-install kit in the form of a hob with connected PUGV wires and GML sleeves pressed onto them:


The hole for the hob was carefully prepared by the kitchen installers.

I do not recommend entrusting the connection of the hob to kitchen installers, since these specialists understand perfectly well the installation of kitchens, but often do not know how to make a high-quality connection, which can be downright dangerous if the hob currents are high!

Often the stove wire is connected through a fire-hazardous polyethylene terminal block, which also requires periodic tightening of the screws.

Just like you shouldn't trust engineering systems(including electricians) plasterers and generalists. Everyone must do their job.

Preparing the cable output (3 cores of 10 mm2 each) for crimp connection:




Next, the connection is crimped and insulated with high-quality 3M Temflex electrical tape, as well as heat shrink tube with an adhesive layer.

After shrinkage construction hairdryer a neat and reliable connection is obtained:


The wire is carefully rolled up and secured, and the hob is installed in its place.

The hob is working, you can cook:

Thank you for your attention.

Outdated or not working kitchen stoves over time they change to modern models with extended functionality. Installing a free-standing device is not difficult - just plug the supplied plug into the outlet. The difficulty arises when choosing a built-in surface. User connection requires basic skills and knowledge. In this review, we will study step by step how to properly connect the device and the basic power requirements.

First, we prepare the place where the induction cooking equipment will be connected - it is better to prepare an outlet in advance. For safety reasons, choose a grounding device. For the socket you will have to lay a separate branch from the panel and connect it to the RCD circuit breaker. They are laying to it copper wire with a cable cross-section of at least 4 mm². Depending on the type of outlet, the cable is selected to be three- or four-core.

When choosing a location, consider the following points:

  • install the device without distortions, on a flat surface;
  • It is not recommended to place the device above the dishwasher;
  • provide space for ventilation– the hob should not overheat;
  • provide a small gap between the contacting vertical surfaces and back wall device;
  • It is recommended to place the device.

Necessary equipment and tools

To connect the electrical panel, prepare the following equipment:

  • screwdriver, knife;
  • connecting cable designed for surface power (4-6 sq. mm);
  • adapter clamp;
  • tester for checking whether the connection phase matches the wire colors.

The kit usually includes a cable consisting of four main wires, indicating:

  • phase (black and brown),
  • zero (blue color),
  • earth (yellow-green).

Note! The device is connected through a separate RCD circuit breaker, to which no other household appliances are connected.

Number of phases

The installation of all new European-made models is designed to connect equipment to a network with a different number of phases. In our homes there are two standards: a three-phase network with 380 V and a single-phase network with 220 V. The choice of the necessary connection diagram depends on the electrical wiring in the house.

The standard diagram of the hob is presented terminal group, consisting of five items, marked for convenience with numbers, and one grounding, which is indicated by the icon:

The following symbols are used in electrical engineering:

  • phases are designated as L1, L2, L3;
  • zeros – N1 and N2;
  • grounding marked PE.

Having understood the connection diagrams and wires, you need to study the instructions. The manufacturer's recommendations list all connections and describe in detail the main installation steps. After the selected scheme, we move on to practice.

Connecting the unit to a single-phase network

This type of connection is used when a wire coming out of the wall consists of of three cores. To install the panel, you must complete the following steps.

  1. Unscrew with a screwdriver metal plate on the back of the panel.
  2. Using jumpers (they are supplied with the device), connect the terminals numbered “1”, “2”, “3” and connect the phase wire (brown, black or white).
  3. Connect the blue wire to the zeros (contacts numbered “4”, “5”).
  4. Connect the yellow-green wire to the protective terminal.
  5. Reinstall the device and tighten the screws that secure the connecting cable.
  6. Check the strength and tightness of the connection, as well as the functionality of the kitchen panel.

Before installing any brand of cooking equipment (panels,A eg, Bosch, Siemens, Electrolux, Hansa, Samsung and others), the cable of which has a plug, first check the contacts and power wires inside the socket for compliance.

In some devices they are different - in this case we disassemble the socket. We determine the connection compliance using a special multimeter. The wires can be swapped if necessary.

Connecting the device to a three-phase 380 V network A cable is used to install the device with five cores , which has the following parameters: 3 phases, protective grounding

and "zero". Install induction cooker

  1. follows in this sequence:
  2. We connect the 1st phase wire (black, white or brown) to the terminal numbered “1”, the next one to the second number, and the remaining one to the “3” terminal.
  3. The terminals numbered “4” and “5” are connected with a jumper, and the neutral wire (usually blue) is connected to them.

We connect a yellow-green wire to the “grounding” terminal marked pe.

Note! The order in which the phase is connected to the contacts of the device is not so important, that is, it makes no difference what color wire the user connects first.

How to connect a plug to a cable If the plug has, then when connecting they must be connected to the marked colored cores of the cable. However, there is another option. If the socket is three-pin, a problem arises - four wires when there are 3 pins. The solution is simple - we twist the black and brown wires from the phase together and connect them to the “Phase” contact.

To summarize, I would like to note that the installation of the hob involves electricity, so during installation you will need certain skills. The safety of people also depends on proper connection. If there is the slightest doubt, it is better to entrust the connection of equipment to professional craftsmen. The same rule applies to elimination. is possible only if you have the appropriate knowledge and experience in repairing equipment.