Wood-burning brick stoves for summer cottages. How to build a brick stove for a home or cottage? Installation of cleanout and blower doors

Country houses are increasingly equipped with small stoves of various models. A stove in the interior by its very presence makes it warmer and more comfortable. And in spring and autumn it provides a comfortable temperature in the rooms, which is doubly pleasant when it is raining outside or a damp, cold wind is blowing.

The modern market offers a huge selection of compact ovens for country houses, designed to operate on various types of fuel:

• Gas;
• Electrical;
• Models burning coal, pellets or wood.

Wood-burning stoves are in particular demand. Tongues of live fire dancing in the firebox, the breathtaking smell of real wood, and the special soft, enveloping and relaxing warmth make them desirable both in small country houses and in reputable country cottages.

This article will focus specifically on wood-burning stoves.

Types of wood stoves

Having decided on what your heating device will operate on, you should decide what its main parameters will be.

Modern wood stoves It is customary to subdivide according to the following indicators:

• Purpose:
  • Heating systems, their only task is to heat the building;
  • Heating and cooking. They heat several rooms at once and have special design elements (hobs) that allow you to cook and heat food;
  • Furnaces-boilers. A water circuit is built into them, which allows them to be used in a water heating circuit or for preparing hot water. Varieties of such structures are sauna stoves;
  • The oven is universal, equipped with a compartment for drying fruit, a hot water box, an oven, a summer chimney and a samovar connection point.
• Material of manufacture:
  • Metal, with thin and thick walls;
  • Cast iron;
  • Brick;
• installation location:
  • classic options, designed for installation near a wall;
  • corner;
  • island. The design of such stoves allows them to be placed in the center of the room;
• burning duration. This indicator is one of the most important. According to it, furnaces are divided into models:
  • short-term (up to 3 hours) burning of one stack of firewood;
  • long-term (up to 12 hours), which is achieved through a system for adjusting the air supplied to the firebox. The most popular models are the and .

Cast iron stoves

These models are presented on the market in much smaller quantities. Used as backup source heat that can be used in emergencies. Unlike thin-walled steel, cast iron stoves Having warmed up quickly, they retain heat for a long time.

Products in this group are divided into two basic groups.

Long burning (multi-fuel).

Some models are available with a built-in additional air supply system, which allows you to burn pyrolysis gases.

Furnaces with built-in heat exchangers and water circuit.

Such models allow you to equip your dacha water heating. Their power is enough to heat large one- and two-story country houses. Provided that the CO is filled with non-freezing coolant.

A typical representative of this group can be considered

Brick ovens

A small brick stove for a summer house is the most durable, reliable and high-status option. But such stoves are quite expensive. The rooms warm up more slowly than when using steel or cast iron models. But this is many times compensated by the quality of heat and the duration of its preservation.

The vast majority of brick ovens are structurally adapted for cooking. Some models can be used as fireplaces.

Most often, one of the stove models is used as a country stove:

• Dutch
• Swede
• Kuznetsov furnaces.

This is explained by the fact that in the lines of small brick stoves for giving these models, you can choose quite compact options; stoves of a similar design are available for independent laying (if you strictly follow the procedures), and have an acceptable cost (even when ordering the work from a professional stove maker).

Products of the mentioned types allow you to choose the optimal model that:

• will provide in country house optimal temperature at minimum consumption firewood;
• will warm up evenly over the entire height;
• maintain a comfortable temperature in the premises of the cottage for a long time;
• have a maximum heating of the outer walls of no more than 95°C;
• the oven must be completely safe and easy to use;
• its calculated durability (when using appropriate materials and properly executed masonry) must be at least 20 years;
• The presence of through cracks in the outer walls is unacceptable. This is dangerous to human health (carbon monoxide enters the room);
• visually attractive appearance.

What you need for work

If you decide to install a brick stove in your dacha yourself, you should start by choosing its type. Then the desired order is selected (on the Internet or technical literature). It is possible to order the development of a personal design from an experienced stove maker. But this is quite an expensive pleasure.

Basic materials

Having the order in hand, you can go shopping for materials (and the missing tools). As a rule, the list of required materials and installation accessories is approximately the same for any brick stoves. The only difference is the amount of materials required.

To work you will definitely need:

• brick, but not any brick, but the one indicated in the order.

This material is divided into:

• by size:
  • 250*120*65 - normal;
  • 250*120*80 - thickened;
  • 288*138*138 - modular;
• By strength (from grade 75 to grade 300);
• By variety:
  • Only grade 1 and grade 2 bricks are suitable for masonry. The body of the furnace and the chimney are made from it;
• Fireproof (another name, fireclay). This brick is intended for laying a firebox.

• Red clay (ordinary). The material is used to make masonry mortar. It is divided into:
  • Oily (sand impurities do not exceed 3%);
  • Average (≤ 15%);
  • Skinny (about 30%);
• Sand (preferably quarry sand);
• Chamotte (preferably). This material is added instead of sand to clay when making mortar for laying the firebox;
• Water (preferably rain or distilled). It is strictly forbidden to work with hard water;
• Slaked lime. This material will be required during installation, as well as the head of the chimney, which rises above the roof;
• Cement. Solutions based on it can be used instead of lime. For a country stove, grade 400 and above will be sufficient.

Additional materials

• Steel profiles (if they are provided for in the order);
• Steel sheet (for flooring in front of the firebox);
• Annealed steel wire;
• Asbestos cord;
• Waterproofing (roofing felt);
• Construction felt (for laying under the pre-furnace sheet);
• Fireproof mastics (Russian “Garant” or “Monolit”), paint (for example, German Dufa Heizkorperlack).

If your financial capabilities are not limited, you can reduce the time of work (while simultaneously increasing its quality). Purchase factory-prepared dry masonry mixtures. For example, from the Scanterm line, Finnish production (or analogues).

In addition to basic and additional building materials, you will need basic stove appliances (according to the order):

• Fire door (it is better to take a glazed one, which will allow you to admire the fiery dance);
• Blower door;
• Views;
• Valves;
• Rotary dampers;
• Wind vane.

Tool

For ease of use, you will need the following tools:

• Stovemaker's hammer;
• Pick;
• Construction trowel (another name, trowel);
• Jointing for masonry joints (preferably);
• Knife-scrape;
• Scoop shovel for mixing the solution (can be replaced with an electric drill with a mixer);
• Measuring tool:
  • Roulette;
  • folding meter;
  • plumb line;
  • square;
  • levels: construction, water (if any, laser);
• falcons;
• grater and grater;
• grinder with a set of discs for stone or concrete;
• extension.

In addition, you will need a large container for preparing masonry mortar and a bucket for water.

Carrying out masonry

If earlier the laying of a stove was carried out exclusively according to existing procedures, today the Internet provides the opportunity to lay out a simple stove, guided by step-by-step photos with comments. This option is much clearer to many summer residents. Since correct reading of orders requires primary knowledge of furnace business and symbols.

We offer you a combined version (orders + photos), which tells about the laying of a simple country stove. This model allows you to heat the room and cook food.

Foundation arrangement

It is from this stage that work begins if the stove has significant weight. The option we are considering does not exceed 500 kg for this indicator. Therefore, it can be laid without first making a foundation.

In the case where the floors in the country house are weak, we strongly recommend screeding in place of the future one.

After that:

• We waterproof the masonry site by laying a sheet of waterproofing material (roofing felt);
• on top of it we form a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
• under the level (without masonry mortar) we lay out the 1st row (item 1 of the order given above);
• In the second and third rows we have an air vent door. We wrap it twice with a cord (asbestos) and fix it using wire;
• put the 2nd and 3rd row;
• 4th is made with fireclay bricks;
• A grate is placed in the seat. Since metal and brick have different coefficients of thermal linear expansion during formation seat a four-sided gap of 10 mm must be provided;
• The fifth row is laid “on edge”. We form a stand inside the chimney for the subsequent formation of an internal partition. With a slight extension beyond the plane of the back wall of the furnace, a “blowout brick” is placed “dry” (without using masonry mortar);
• There will be a firebox door in rows 6-8. We also wrap it with asbestos cord around the installation perimeter and connect the fastening wire to it. Then we fix the door in the desired position using several bricks (see photo).
• We place the 6th row “in the spoon” along the contour of the fifth, then the 7th “on the edge”. Grouting interior walls ok the chimney with a damp cloth (remove excess solution);
• To ensure bandaging of masonry seams, the 8th row is placed in a spoon (flat) with a ¾ brick (blanks of the required length are made with a grinder). The back wall in this row is placed on the edge;
• In the ninth row, the firebox door is blocked from above. A “smoke tooth” (beveled brick) is placed above the firebox to center the fire under the burner.
• The 10th row, in order to hold the door open, is placed with the brick offset towards back wall. Before starting masonry, you should lay a wet asbestos cord, which will act as a sealant along the line of contact between the hob and the brick;
• Starting from the 11th row, a chimney is formed (with a step-by-step shift to the rear wall). To ensure that this does not lead to a displacement of the center of gravity of the entire furnace, the pipe is made of a mounted (metal) pipe or made attached;
• 12 row. This is the place where the valve is installed, which is pre-sealed with an asbestos cord and coated with clay masonry mortar;
• Then a ¼ chimney pipe is placed, to which a metal pipe is joined;
• The knockout brick is removed and the construction debris that has accumulated there is removed from the chimney;
  
• The gap formed between the floor and the first row of brickwork is closed with an L-shaped metal overlay. then the baseboard is nailed.
• The stove is whitewashed, after which the outer surface is covered with heat-resistant varnish (stove varnish). The joints between the brickwork and metal structural elements are additionally sealed. It is advisable to paint all stove appliances with fire-resistant black paint.
• A test fire is carried out (small wood chips, paper). After this, the structure is aged for 14-15 days to complete natural drying.

Below we present another selection of photographs, which shows that a brick oven can not only be laid “from scratch”, but also be completely replaced with partial preservation of the structure (in our case, the pipe and foundation).

The stove, which had been standing at the dacha for 18 years, needed to be updated. When comparing two solutions: repair or complete replacement of the stove, after checking its actual condition, a decision was made to replace it, preserving (in order to save money and time for masonry) the old foundation and chimney.

To carry out these works, Mr. Rublev (it was he who posted these materials on the network) needed:

• Kiln bricks of the “Vitebsk” brand – 450 pcs;
• Fireclay bricks for the firebox – 40 pieces;
• Sheet asbestos – 1 sheet;
• Cement M400 – 1 bag;
• Fireclay clay – 3 bags;
• Fireproof black paint, designed for use at temperatures up to 600°C – 1 can;
• Fireproof varnish (colorless) – 2 bottles;
• Door with glass for the firebox – 1 piece;
• Blower door (with matching pattern to match the main one) – 1 piece;
• Medium size grate – 1 piece;

Views and valves were used from an old furnace.

Now let's look.

1. This is what the stove looked like before the renovation. Cracks in the slab, cracks around it and brick crumbling in the firebox were the basis for alteration.
   
2. The pipe is in excellent condition. And, with the consent of the master stove maker, it was decided to leave it. The issue of fixing the pipe after there was no stove underneath was resolved very simply. On both sides, grooves were cut into its walls, into which a corner was inserted. To prevent the latter from diverging, it was fixed with wire. And two boards were placed under it (this is the second floor of the country house).
3. Then they began to dismantle the oven. At the same time, they tried to preserve the old brick for reuse. At the same time, the top two rows were retained on the pipe. This eliminated the need to go through the floor and ceiling covering again.
   
4. Dismantling continues. It reached the oven. Because for new oven it is not needed, delete it.
   
5. We reached the lower chimneys
   
6. Everything has been removed down to the foundation
   
7. And this is a “look through the pipe.” The sky is visible. This means traction is guaranteed.
   
8. The stove maker turned out to be a professional. Therefore, instead of opening the seams, I suggested chamfering them. It turned out great.
   
   
9. Laying the first brick of a new furnace
   
10. The bottom row is ready. Used bricks are laid inside.
    
11. This is what masonry done by a professional looks like
    
12. A lower thermal chamber (L-shaped) is formed.
    Its location guarantees bottom-level heating of the air in the room.
13. Laying a row of fireclay bricks under the base of the firebox. The laid grate is clearly visible. On the right, bottom view.
    
14. The turn came to the firebox door.
    
15. View in all its glory (see photo 13)
    
16. Installing a hob on 1 burner (trying on).
    
17. The craftsman formed a protruding brick canopy over the firebox. If the door allows soot to pass through, it will not stain the entire wall of the stove, but will be held in place by this element.
    
18. The cooking surface is placed on mastic. There is a functional utensil rack nearby, which is very convenient.
    
19. And this is the “belly of the stove,” one of the elbows of the internal chimney.
    
20. And these are all 3 knees in the “group portrait”
    
21. Firebox
    
22. Almost full height. The visor and the valve are clearly visible (from the side).
23. Above hob the dryer will stir.
24. And here you can see how the issue of access to warm air has been resolved. Everything ingenious is simple (bottom view)
    
25. Shelf on top. Behind it are vertical sections of the chimney.
    
26. The stove reached its ceiling, which was also equipped with a visor for beauty.
    
27. We begin laying the pipe in the free space, trying to combine it with the existing part.
    
28. This is the distance left between the new and old parts of the pipe. The brick will definitely not fit. And it is necessary.
    
29. This did not stop the professional. The stove maker simply used two jacks and lifted the remaining part of the pipe to the desired height.
    
    
30. We complete the laying of the connecting row and lay the masonry mortar on top of it.
    
31. We lower the upper part and it sits tightly on the solution.
    
32. We coat the surface of the stove with varnish, and metal elements. black paint. The work is completed.
33. Control firebox.
    
    

Stove heating of country houses today is gaining a second youth. And this is not surprising, considering that special atmosphere And home warmth, which can be created by a simple brick stove, even made with your own hands. It is often installed even in the presence of more technologically advanced heating systems, in an attempt to obtain a stylish, original element of the interior. Today we will talk about the most popular models of brick stoves and share the secrets of the stove craft.

Features and secrets of the popularity of brick ovens

A brick stove is not only a functional heating device, but also a stylish element of the interior.

There is probably no such person who would not like a live fireplace with crackling firewood and especially comfortable warmth. But a good old brick oven can please you not only with this, but also with its ability to create the most conducive to health atmosphere. It's all about the material from which this amazing unit is built. Being the closest relative of ceramics, brick releases water vapor into the air when heated, and absorbs it back when cooled. The stove seems to “breathe”, thanks to which the optimal humidity is established in the room. It is also important that the heat becomes narrower at a temperature of 18–19 °C, whereas when using other types of heating, the comfort level starts from 20–21 °C. In addition, being made from clay, brick is an environmentally friendly material, which means that when operating a heating device you do not have to worry about the release of compounds harmful to health.

Despite the fact that each type of brick heat generators has its own functional and design features, they are all similar to each other in terms of the arrangement of the combustion and heat exchange parts. So, any stationary oven of this type has:

• a foundation that serves as the base of the heating device and evenly distributes its weight over the entire area;
• a firebox that simultaneously serves as a firebox and combustion chamber;
• a grate that allows for lower air supply to the combustion zone. Due to this, the performance of the heating unit increases and it becomes possible to regulate the intensity of fuel combustion;
• ash chamber, which makes cleaning the oven easier;
• a chimney that creates the necessary draft and releases exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

Design of a channel-type brick kiln

In addition to their main purpose, wood heat generators are also used for cooking, as well as arranging an additional resting place. The structure itself can be installed both indoors and in the yard, for example, in a recreation area with a barbecue, grill or cauldron. If we talk about fireplace stoves, then their heat-generating function is completely relegated to the background, giving way to the visual and image component.

The advantages of brick kilns include:

• fast surface heating;
• possibility of using several types of fuel;
• low operating costs;
• eliminates the risk of burns when touching the walls of the heating device;
• especially soft, comfortable warmth;
• the air in the room is not dehydrated;
• wide possibilities in terms of interior decoration.

The units in question also have disadvantages. The most significant of them is the potential danger of poisoning carbon monoxide which appears when used incorrectly. Another one is large dimensions and weight. That's probably all. As you can see, equipment of this type has continuous advantages and an almost complete absence of negative aspects, which, incidentally, determines its high popularity.

Classification of heating devices. Criteria for choosing the optimal design

All existing models of brick kilns can be divided into several types:

• heating devices;
• cooking units;
• combination ovens;

Having decided on the required functionality, you need to choose the option that can be folded yourself. In order not to consider the entire variety of stationary units, we will focus on the most popular options:

1. Dutch ovens. Thanks to the channel design, they have good heat dissipation and take up little space. Such heat generators operate in slow combustion or smoldering mode, which significantly reduces the requirements for the quality of building materials. And although the efficiency of the “Dutch” ones rarely exceeds 40%, they have found many fans, partly due to their low cost and ease of construction.

   

   The classic “Dutch” is an extremely compact structure

2. Swedish wood-burning stoves have a chamber-channel arrangement, which allows them to increase efficiency to 50%. Just like the “Dutch” ones, the “Swedish” ones take up little space, but require a more careful approach when choosing materials and are a little more difficult to manufacture. Nevertheless, the labor and financial costs are fully justified by the increased productivity and expanded functionality of heat generators of this type.

   

   The Swedish stove will delight its owner with high efficiency and functionality

3. have a unique layout, thanks to which they carry an indescribable flavor and originality. Their efficiency exceeds 60%, but not everyone will like the operating features. In addition, not every beginner will be able to fold the stove. Most likely, you will have to hire a professional stove-maker, and this will entail additional costs that will increase the cost of an already not the cheapest design.

   

   A Russian stove can completely transform the interior, but will require a lot of space for installation

4. Kuznetsov bell furnaces, famous for their thermal efficiency, have an efficiency of up to 90%. The secret of their success lies in a special device that promotes the most complete combustion fuel and maximum heat transfer. A special feature of “blacksmiths” is their extremely clean exhaust and the absence of soot, which minimizes the time spent on maintaining the heating device. As for the disadvantages, these include the complexity of the design and high requirements for materials. However, the last drawback is compensated by the fact that the construction of a “hood” will require significantly less bricks than for any other furnace.

   

   Unlike canonical bell-type stoves, modified units can have a hob and an oven

You will find step-by-step instructions for laying a Kuznetsov stove with orders in our next article:.

Having considered everything possible options, we have come to the most crucial moment - the choice of a heating device that can satisfy all the requirements placed on it. The main criteria in this case are functionality and installation location. And if the first does not present any difficulties, since it completely depends on the preferences and requirements of the owner, then the second point requires the closest attention. We will tell you in more detail how to choose a stove according to the type of structure.

1. A house designed for permanent residence. If stove heating will be used as the main one, then there is no better option than the “Swedish” or “cap”. In addition to the fact that these units have excellent performance and do not take up much space, they are also easily complemented by other elements - a hob, water circuit, oven, drying niches or a stove bench. If functionality is relegated to the background, and the main requirement is compactness, then a good option is a “Dutch oven” that heats several adjacent rooms.
2. Country house "weekend" or dacha. Since these buildings require irregular residence, it will be enough to install a small heating device equipped with a hob. Ideal option are fireplace stoves with an open hearth, since with their help you can heat the room in as soon as possible. This advantage cannot be overestimated in winter, when the indoor temperature drops to sub-zero temperatures.
3. A stove in a country house with water or another type of heating. In this case, the heating device serves to create a special atmosphere. If the space of the room allows, then you can install a full-fledged Russian stove or unit with a firebox, fireplace and stove bench.
4. Heating device for a bath. For this case, a simple stove-heater is suitable, into which a container is built in to produce hot water. If the bathhouse is attached to the house, then instead of a tank you can install a full-fledged boiler designed for a liquid heating system.
5. Stoves for open areas. Most often, such heating devices are installed on open verandas, V summer kitchens or gazebos and are used for cooking. For these purposes, the structure is additionally equipped with a hob, barbecue, barbecue, cauldron, etc.

A barbecue oven will decorate the area and fill the relaxation area with functionality.

Having decided on the type and filling of the furnace, do not rush to start construction. In order for the heating device to meet all expectations, it is necessary to thoroughly understand the principles of its operation.

Calculation of basic parameters

Before choosing a working design for a heating device, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation according to the parameters of a particular room. The most accurate method is to determine the dimensions based on the heat output of the furnace. In order not to go into complex calculations, for well-insulated houses they use a simplified calculation scheme proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. This method uses the average thermal power removed from one square meter of the surface of the unit (TMEP). For a conventional firebox, take the value 0.5 kW/sq. m, and if intensive heating is necessary, which occurs during severe cold weather - up to 0.76 kW/sq. m.

When determining the thermal power of a furnace, only those surfaces that participate in heat exchange processes are taken into account. For example, in “Dutch” systems, sections of walls located near the floor, below the horizontal sections of the gas duct, are not excluded from the calculations.

In principle, these values ​​are enough to select a suitable project from those that can be found in the public domain. If the available options are not suitable for any reason, then you will need to calculate the parameters of the main elements of the furnace and design your own design.

Drawings and diagrams of brick kilns

Bath stove
Stove-fireplace Classic "Dutch" Bell stove

Firebox

The dimensions of the firebox are determined based on the maximum volume of the fuel fill. In this case, the amount of combustible materials is calculated using their calorific value and specific gravity, focusing on the required power. The volume of the firebox should be 2–3 times larger than the obtained value, which will allow the stove to be reheated at extremely low temperatures.
When calculating the size of the combustion chamber, it is necessary to take into account that the maximum filling should not exceed 2/3 of the volume of the combustion chamber. In addition, the dimensions of the firebox and all its components must be adjusted to the size of the bricks used for laying the stove. In your calculations, you can use special tables designed taking into account the need to heat rooms of various sizes.

Calculation table for the main elements of a brick kiln

Ash pan

The height of the ash pan depends on the type of fuel used. For low-ash combustible materials such as coal or peat briquettes, this value is taken equal to 1/3 of the height of the firebox. If the stove is heated with wood or pellets, then the height of the ash chamber must be reduced to 1/5.

Chimney

When calculating the chimney, it should be taken into account that the place of its installation must comply with SNiP

Unlike gas heating equipment, wood stoves do not require much draft, so best shape the smoke channel will be a rectangle. When calculating the chimney, it is taken into account that the cross-section of the blower should not exceed the area of ​​its flue, and all values ​​are adjusted to the dimensions of a standard brick. Since accurate design requires operating with a lot of data and parameters, it is best to use one of the special programs. However, for the most common cases (no kinks in the smoke channel, vertical stroke, rectangular cross-section, height from 4 to 12 m), you can use average values ​​for furnaces with a power of up to 14 kW:

• Less than 3.5 kW - 140x140 mm.
• 5 – 5.2 kW - 140x200 mm.
• From 5.2 to 7.2 kW - 140x270 mm.
• From 7.2 to 10.5 kW - 200x200 kW.
• 5 – 14 kW - 200x270 mm.

Recommended sizes are minimum. And yet there is no need to excessively increase the cross-section of the smoke channel, since cold air will descend into the stove through a chimney that is too wide. Counterflow, or “swish” in the language of professional stove-makers, threatens not only a deterioration in performance, but also more serious problems.

To calculate the amount of material required, it is best to use special tables. Below is one of them.

Calculation of the number of bricks

You should not worry if the chimney calculated “offhand” occasionally starts to smoke. If necessary, it can be extended with a piece of asbestos-cement pipe 0.5–1 m long, or several more rows of bricks can be laid. Often such events are carried out when the aerodynamics of the terrain have changed. For example, after trees grow or taller buildings are erected in the neighborhood.

Preparatory activities

Preparation for construction includes several stages:

• selection of tools and necessary materials;
• determining the optimal location for installing the heating device;
• arrangement of the foundation and preparation of the construction site;
• making stove bricks (if necessary) and preparing masonry mortar.

Required materials and tools

Stovemaker tools

To lay a brick oven you will need:

1. Mason's hammer (with striker and pick).
2. Broom for mopping laid rows.
3. Angle, plumb and level for control geometric parameters masonry
4. Pliers.
5. Rubber hammer (mallet).
6. Trowel (trowel).
7. Rule and tamper for arranging the foundation.
8. Lead scriber.
9. Spatula or mixer for mixing the solution.
10. Joining.
11. Buckets and other containers for bulk substances and liquids.
12. Sieve.
13. Grinder (angle grinder) with a stone circle.

Despite the fact that brick kilns differ significantly in design and size, the list of materials that will be needed for construction remains virtually unchanged. The standard list of everything you need looks like this:

1. Brick - red, silicate, fireproof and facing (depending on the design of the solid fuel heat generator).
2. Construction mixture for laying stoves. If it is necessary to reduce the cost of construction, it can be replaced with clay and sand.
3. Furnace casting set - blower, combustion and cleaning doors, valves, stove, oven, etc.
4. Grate.
5. Wire for securing cast iron castings.
6. Asbestos or basalt cord.
7. Steel strips and angles for arranging ceilings and niches.
8. Heat-resistant boards for protective thermal insulation.

Fireclay brick ШБ №22

Any brick oven is a unit with an impressive weight that requires a solid foundation. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare materials for building the foundation:

1. Sand.
2. Crushed stone.
3. Reinforcement mesh.
4. Boards and nails for formwork construction.
5. Cement.
6. Waterproofing.

In addition, if the project provides for external wall decoration, then prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for this work.

Features of choosing a place to install a heating device

Most often, a brick oven is installed near one of the walls or in the corner of the room - this will make it possible to use the available space in the most rational way. If the unit is planned to be used for heating several rooms, then it is placed in the center of the house, with the firebox and hob oriented towards the kitchen, and the other edges towards the bedroom, hall or living room. The diagram clearly shows the benefits of choosing the right location.

The right choice of location can solve the problem of heating all rooms of a country house

When installing a heating device, you should not be guided by convenience alone. It is important not to forget about the minimum permissible distances to other surfaces, as well as the optimal gaps and distances that are determined by the current SNiP:

• from a brick chimney to wooden elements The ceiling or roof must have at least 130 mm of free space. If non-insulated ceramic or steel pipe, then the gap is increased to 250 mm;
• a gap of at least 100 mm is left between the wooden floor and the outer walls of the stove;
• the distance from the heated side surface of the heat generator to the combustible wall of the building depends on whether thermal insulation will be used. With a protective screen the minimum gap is 130 mm, and without it - at least 380 mm;
• a gap of at least 0.35 m should be left from the ceiling to the stove ceiling. When installing compact units with low heat capacity, this distance can be increased to 0.7–1 m.

Construction of the foundation

It is best if the base of the brick kiln is formed simultaneously with the general building foundation. In this case, both structures are performed separately, otherwise subsidence of the building walls will inevitably lead to a violation of the geometry, or even damage to the heating device. If the furnace will be built in finished house, then the first thing people pay attention to is the distance of the chimney from the roof slab elements, which should be at least 15 cm. And only after that they begin marking and building the foundation.

Considering the weight of the stove, a solid foundation must be used.

If the house has wooden floors, then they are cut out at the place where the stove is installed, 10–15 cm away from the outer contour. After this, a pit is dug, the depth of which depends on the characteristics of the soil and the depth of its freezing. For middle zone It is enough to dig a hole 0.7–0.8 m deep. After this, its bottom is covered with a 15-centimeter layer of sand and compacted, periodically spilling water. Then a layer of crushed stone 10–15 cm thick is poured, which is also thoroughly compacted. After this, wooden pegs are driven into the corners of the structure, to which the sheathing boards are attached. To prevent laitance from leaking through the cracks of the mold, its walls are covered with plastic film. A reinforcing mesh is installed at a distance of 5–10 cm from the floor, for which both metal rods driven into the bottom of the pit and fragments of brick are used.

The foundation for a brick oven is made of reinforced concrete

By mixing M-400 cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:3:4, concrete is prepared. Just enough water is added to obtain a solution of medium fluidity, otherwise the strength of the structure will be reduced. The mixture is poured into the formwork and compacted in any way, after which the surface of the foundation is leveled using the rule. Note that the upper level of the stove base should be 15–20 cm below the floor. After several hours necessary for the solution to pre-set, the structure is covered with film and left for several weeks until completely dry.

Before laying bricks, the foundation must be waterproofed using roofing material or a special film. If the width of the material is not enough, then its strips are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm.

Preparation of the solution

Now that ready-made building mixtures for laying fireplaces and stoves can be found in the retail chain, there are practically no problems with preparing a working solution. All you need to do is mix the ingredients with water using a wooden spatula or construction mixer. However, you can make masonry mortar yourself - this will allow you to save additional money. In addition, the owner will have complete confidence in the environmental friendliness of the structure.

You can prepare a building mixture with your own hands from sand and clay, the ratio of which depends on the fat content of the latter component. To choose optimal composition, conduct a small experiment, mixing bulk materials in different proportions. After this, balls with a diameter of 5–6 cm are rolled from the solution, which, after preliminary drying, are squeezed between two planks. The best composition is considered to be one in which the sample begins to crack no earlier than it is deformed by one third.

There are several ways to check the quality of clay

Another way to determine the correct ratio of components is to lower a spatula into the prepared mixture. The adhesion of the solution to less than 1 mm indicates its low plasticity - it is necessary to add clay. If the layer thickness is more than 2 mm, then this indicates that the mixture is greasy, which can be corrected by adding sand. The norm is from 1 to 2 mm.

The clay must be soaked in water for a day before use. If you want to increase its fat content, then use the extraction method, which consists of settling the clay solution and removing its middle part.

How to properly build a brick oven. Instructions for the progress of work

Decide on the type of heating device, make preliminary calculations and preparing everything to start construction is only half the battle. In order to correctly fold the stove, you need to find patterns for laying out the bricks in each row, the so-called orders. We have prepared several of the most popular options that can be used as working projects. If for some reason they do not suit you, then you can search ready-made solutions on the Internet or order an individual layout on one of the special sites.

Stove ordering diagrams in the photo

Orders of the Swedish stove Orders of the “Dutch” Orders of the Russian oven
Procedures for heating and cooking furnace
Orders of a stove for a bath
Orders of the Kuznetsov bell furnace

Today we propose to build a compact, but very productive and functional brick oven. Despite its apparent complexity, even a beginner can build it if he uses our instructions and follows all the recommendations. We, in turn, will share the secrets of experienced stove makers and give necessary recommendations during construction.

Arrangements of an oven with a hob and niches for drying

In the presented arrangement diagram you can see a heating unit equipped with a convenient hob and a drying niche, which gives a certain resemblance to a classic Swedish oven. We recommend that you first lay out the structure dry, without using mortar. This will allow you to study in detail the features of each row and prepare the necessary elements of the structure. Next, the work is done in this order:

1. Up to the floor level, the bricks are laid out completely on cement-sand mortar. At this stage, you should be especially attentive to geometric accuracy, controlling the masonry by level and plumb. How smooth and stable the oven will be depends on the careful execution of the work.
2. The first row of the furnace body begins to form the ash chamber.

   

   Installing a blower door

3. Before starting laying the second row, install the blower door. To do this, steel wire is threaded into specially cast ears on its body, which is laid in the masonry seams. To prevent the door from moving and tipping over, it is temporarily supported with bricks.
4. In the fourth row, two channels are installed to clean the furnace from soot. Each of them has a separate door.

   

   The grate is not secured in any way other than by very precise placement

5. A grate is installed in the fifth row. The recesses made in the bricks of the bottom row will help to correctly lay the cast iron. Hereinafter, the combustion chamber is lined exclusively with refractory bricks.

   

   In the oven, the grate is laid on a refractory brick

6. Before laying the sixth row, a fire door is installed, which is temporarily fixed with a stack of bricks laid on the grate. If necessary, part with outside propped up with a metal corner or wooden slats.

   

   Installation of the combustion door

7. Starting from the seventh row, the furnace flues begin to be equipped. The vertical walls of the firebox are lined with fireclay bricks placed on edge.
   

   To ensure the durability of the structure, the outer masonry is separated from the combustion chamber by a layer of basalt cardboard.

   

   Laying vertical channels

8. Before starting the laying of the ninth row, a quarter is selected from the bricks that will cover the fire door. Thanks to this, the structure will look smooth and aesthetically pleasing. Here the cast iron part is finally fastened, laying the wire in the seam of the ninth row.

   

   To ensure an accurate fit of the brick to the door, its edges are cut in place

9. In the 11th row, a hob is placed on the upper opening of the fuel chamber. The same basalt cardboard or asbestos cord is used as a seal. The front part of the cooking niche is framed with a steel corner.

   

   The firebox is separated from the external walls with basalt cardboard or other fire-resistant material

10. From the 12th to the 16th row, a chamber is built over a cast-iron stove.
11. Before covering the cooking niche, steel strips are laid on its side walls, which will serve as support for the bricks of the 17th row. The front part of this row is decorated with a metal corner.
12. The 18th and 19th rows are laid out almost completely, only three vertical heat exchangers are built up.
13. In the 20th row, a horizontal channel and a door are installed to remove soot and deposits, and they also begin to form a drying chamber.
14. The door is covered with masonry of the 22nd row.
15. On the 23rd row, the horizontal flue is blocked. Only the openings of the vertical channels are left open.
16. Before laying the 24th row, steel strips are laid above the drying chamber.
17. From the 25th to the 28th row, another cleaning door is installed and the stove niche is blocked.
18. In the 30th row, valves are installed on the two remaining vertical flues. To do this, first install their frames, and then insert the partitions themselves.

    

    Installation of furnace valves

19. From the 31st to the 35th row, lay out the transition section of the chimney.
20. From the 36th to the 38th row a fluff is constructed.

In the place where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is insulated from the ceiling with non-combustible materials. To do this, use as mineral insulation, and expanded clay. It is poured into a box, which is knocked down around the chimney.

You can make this beauty with your own hands

Briefly about the installation of the oven and heat exchange register

Previously, we looked at how oven doors are mounted and secured. It is equally important to correctly install other functional elements.

Oven installation features

If the design of the oven provides for the installation of an oven, then it is installed so that the flow of heated gases washes as large a surface area as possible. Most often, these conditions correspond to the transition area from the furnace to the heat exchanger. First, metal corners are placed on the side walls of the horizontal flue, and the points of contact between the cabinet and the outer wall of the furnace are sealed using basalt cardboard or asbestos cord.

A water heating boiler or liquid heat exchange register is installed in the hottest zone of the furnace. Depending on the type of heat generator, this place may be in the rear of the combustion chamber, at the beginning of the flue, or under the hood of non-revolving units. If you plan to use the hob and water heater at the same time, then its upper part is made in the form of transversely located metal pipes, which are welded into side containers made of furnace steel. A compensation gap of 5–15 mm is left between the water heating boiler and the walls of the firebox. Of course, it is necessary to provide for how the surface of the heat exchanger will be cleaned of soot. For duct and chamber stoves this can be done through the firebox opening, while in other cases it may be necessary to install an additional cleaning door.

Features of operating and cleaning the oven

You cannot immediately test the oven at maximum settings; you must wait for its walls to dry. That is why it is recommended to build a heating device in the warm season. During this period, it is enough to open all the openings of the brick unit and wait one or two weeks. If there is a need to dry the stove in cold weather, then its doors are closed, and a fan heater or a powerful incandescent lamp is turned on in the combustion chamber.

After the specified period, the stove is heated for 5–7 days 2–3 times a day, each time using a small amount of firewood. The complete drying of the walls is indicated by the absence of condensation on metal surfaces, which appears a few minutes after kindling. And even after this, the stove is not heated “to the fullest.” Operation at maximum power is checked only after several days of regular use.

If the unit is heated exclusively with wood, then it is not necessary to clean it from ash every time. In the case of using peat briquettes and coal, the furnace is cleared of ash and ash at the beginning of each new cycle. As for cleaning the internal channels and chimney from soot, this procedure is carried out at least once a season. For these purposes, various scrapers and brushes are used to remove carbon deposits from vertical surfaces. After this, the soot is scooped out of the flues with a metal scoop and poker.

The correct choice of fuel will help reduce soot formation. The best firewood is considered to be hardwood - oak, hornbeam, beech, etc. Birch firewood and aspen leave virtually no soot. By the way, experienced stove makers They recommend using aspen logs for every tenth fire, claiming that this helps remove soot from the ducts and chimney.

It is not recommended to clean the stove by burning it using flammable liquids, black powder (yes, you can find such “helpful” tips), mothballs, etc. Good effect this can hardly be achieved, but nearby buildings and own health significant damage can be caused.

It is often difficult to light a stove after a long period of cooling, for example, in a cottage or country house. This is due to the fact that cold air descends into the furnace channels, forming gas plugs that are difficult to remove. A proven method will help you regain cravings. To do this, take dry paper or rags moistened with kerosene or barbecue liquid, place it close to the vertical flue and set it on fire. Intense combustion will instantly push out stagnant air masses and restore the functionality of the heating device.

You will also find the material with instructions for cleaning and minor repairs of brick stoves useful:.

Video: Compact brick oven of original design

A brick oven can create a particularly warm atmosphere in a room, becoming the highlight of the interior and a gathering place for friends and acquaintances. Not only experienced craftsmen, but also green beginners can fold the unit. Of course, you have to be scrupulous and as attentive as possible. And then the heating device will repay not only cozy warmth and comfort, but also safe work during for long years operation.

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, due to my studies in technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

28.08.2017
6910
Pechnik (Moscow)

Today, gas and electric installations are very popular, as they belong to the category of universal ones and can be installed in almost any room. Despite this, brick kilns remain the most efficient and best of their kind. A brick fireplace stove for a summer house is an excellent opportunity to provide fast, uniform and high-quality heating for both a small one-story house and a fairly spacious house. The advantages of such an installation include ease of use, since the unit does not depend on the availability of electricity and other resources. All that is needed for the fire is coals, logs or purchased briquettes.

After looking at the photos in this article and familiarizing yourself with the materials presented, you will be able to learn about the main design differences between stoves, use ready-made recommendations for selection and installation, and also put a number of useful tips into practice!

Main types of heating units

Important: in addition to the main three types of designs, you can also find other models that have more complex functionality, for example a water jacket. However, such installations are located in large cottages with several floors, a basement and many rooms of different sizes and shapes.

Separation according to design features

A brick fireplace stove for a dacha may differ not only in its functionality and the presence of certain auxiliary elements, but also by other external details, depending on which we can distinguish three additional categories:

• Russian stoves. They began to be built and used by our ancestors. Features of this design include the presence of such structural elements like: a bed and a shelf on which it is convenient to dry clothes. This variation is primarily suitable for placement in a house that needs a firebox all year round. It is not suitable for a simple dacha, since with periodic use and rare use the structure loses its strength and tightness, and cracks and other defects begin to appear on the surface. Also, with prolonged downtime, the brick begins to quickly accumulate moisture and in order to completely heat and warm up all the rooms in the house, the fireplace will need to be lit for about 2-3 days. The Russian stove has large dimensions and is not suitable for installation in small spaces;

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In a country house or dacha, a brick stove is still relevant, as it heats the room and serves as a cooking appliance. Using the instructions for ordering a heating and cooking stove, you can build a brick structure with your own hands, while saving significantly material resources.

When choosing which design to give preference to, you must take into account that there are the following types of stoves, depending on functionality:

• heating brick stove intended only for heating the room. The structure is small in size (tetanus - Dutch);
• Cooking types of brick stoves for the home are equipped with a cast iron stove, which is adapted for cooking and heating water. The stove is not suitable for heating a home (Swedish);
• combined, universal heating and cooking structures with a hob, capable of heating different areas of a country house. Modern ovens are equipped with an oven and a niche for drying fruit and vegetable products. Stoves and fireplaces are often combined.

Advantages and disadvantages

Brick types of heating stoves differ in the thickness of the walls of the heating device:

• thin-walled (Dutch) - the wall is 1/4 of a brick (6.5 cm). The design quickly heats the room, but practically does not retain heat. It is beneficial as a stove for a summer house, where the owners do not live in winter, but come for a short period;
• thick-walled (Russian stove) - wall thickness - 12-25 cm (1/2 −1 brick). The unit takes a long time to heat, and the heat is maintained for longer than a day. The disadvantage of the building is that it requires a lot of firewood for the winter;
• combined structures, in which the firebox is laid out with thick walls, and the chimney is made of 1/4 brick.

Types of stoves

To heat the house and cook food, brick stoves are used, which differ in the form of construction:

• rectangular;
• corner;
• square;
• T - shaped types of stoves;
• round.

Various external finishes for heating devices are used in a private house:

• design “for jointing”;
• plastered;
• ceramic cladding;
• finishing with a metal case.

Heating stoves are installed with different directions of smoke flows:

• direct-flow and counter-flow;
• single-turn and multi-turn;
• with horizontal or vertical channels;
• ductless and with bottom heating.

Each owner must choose before construction which furnace device suits him best.

General design of the heating structure

To independently build a brick heating stove for your home, you need to carefully understand the structure of the stove and the principle of its operation:

• the heart of the device can be figuratively called the firebox, where coal or firewood is placed;
• after fuel combustion, heated air enters the internal channel wells, the walls of which heat up, releasing heat into the room;
• Below, under the combustion chamber, there is an ash pan, separated by a grate;
• the ash chamber serves not only to collect combustion products, but also regulates the air supply to the fuel (by opening and closing the door, you can increase or decrease the air supply);
• It is recommended to clean the ash pit as it fills, so as not to create a backdraft with smoke entering the living room;
• The size of the ash pan is selected depending on the type of fuel. If you plan to burn with wood, the height of the ash pan is 1/5 of the height of the combustion chamber; for solid fuel, a third is enough;
• in the upper part of the firebox there is a hole through which smoke is directed to the chimney;
• hot air passes through the heating channels and then exits through the pipe;
• Soot is gradually deposited on the walls of the chimney, which should be cleaned regularly. Special doors lead to the cleaning chambers;
• the oven diagram determines how to insert the oven, lay the hob cast iron stove, install a tank for heating water.

Each type of stove for a brick house has its own chimney design. They help you figure out how to correctly lay heating stoves made of bricks, drawings of the heating and cooking stove arrangement, which indicate in detail the operating procedure.

Choosing a place in the house

To make the most of the quality indicators of the selected model, you need to know how to correctly position a brick stove for a home in the space of the room.

• It is recommended to place heating and cooking devices in the house, taking into account the following nuances:
• The best place to lay the stove is at the intersection of the internal partition walls. Wherein hob and the fuel door should be located in the kitchen area, and the heated wall should “look” into the room;
• using brick stove designs, you can install a building right in the middle large room. In this case, the room is divided into 2 parts, and especially beautiful designs serve as interior decoration;
• You cannot cover the walls with clothes or curtains, so as not to create a fire hazard;
• when the heating stove is located near an external wall, a significant part of the heat is spent on heating the street;
• if the brick structure weighs more than 250 kg, it is necessary to make a solid foundation for the construction of a brick oven, which will not come into contact with the foundation of the house;
• roof beams should not touch the chimney to avoid the risk of fire;
• A metal sheet is placed in front of the firebox, the edge of which is pressed against the brickwork of the stove.

To ensure smoke removal, the stove pipe must rise above the roof by at least 0.5 meters.

Required materials and tools

To install a wood-burning stove for your home, you should first prepare the necessary components:

• cast iron hob with burners;
• door for the combustion chamber;
• ash pan door;
• small doors for cleaning chimneys;
• grate;
• wire or steel tape to secure the doors;
• steel reinforcing strips;
• metal corner for edging the top of the device;
• valve for shutting off the summer smoke flow;
• metal sheet (pre-furnace) to ensure fire safety;
• oven, container for heating water.

Brick stoves for the home - their drawings with orders are designed for a certain amount of red and refractory bricks. In this case, the structure is first laid dry in order to correctly select the required material and understand the operating principle of the heating device.

• types of hammers: pickaxe, stove and rubber;
• wooden spatula for mixing the solution;
• levels: horizontal and vertical;
• trowel (trowel);
• pliers, rasp, chisel;
• containers for solution, water;
• sponge brush.

Which solution is better to use

The furnace laying scheme requires the use of various solutions during its construction:

• to build a solid foundation, a solution of high-quality cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 is used. The structure is strengthened by adding gravel and reinforcement;
• We lay the first (zero) row of the oven continuous with our own hands. The plane must be leveled horizontally and vertically. A cement-sand mortar is used;
• The main body of the device with heating wells is laid out on a clay-sand mortar. It is taken into account that before using the structure for its intended purpose, the masonry must dry for at least 2-3 days;
• to strengthen the combustion chamber, fireclay is added instead of ordinary sand, using the clay:sand:water ratio (1:1:0.25);
• the pipe is decorated with cement or lime mortar to prevent the building from soaking during precipitation. It should be taken into account that the cement composition for laying furnaces is used within 1 hour. Subsequently, the mixture becomes unusable.

It is not recommended to prepare lime mortar yourself at home, so as not to harm your health. It is easier to use store-bought lime dough, which is used as a base when mixing the solution.

Main steps and important features

All the nuances of how to lay out a stove with your own hands are presented in the serial drawings of brick stoves for the home. You just need to use the presented material correctly.

Calculating the efficiency of the required device helps you choose the most suitable furnace drawings. At the same time, the standard for heat radiation per square meter of device area is considered to be 0.5 kW under normal conditions, and 0.76 kW in severe frosts. It is assumed that the house is well insulated from the outside.

To heat a living area of ​​100 square meters. meters, it is necessary to build a stove structure 2.5 m high, with a useful heating area of ​​17.5 sq. meters. In this case, in normal mode, 8.5 kW of heat is released, and during intensive use of the device - 13.3 kW. The heat transfer of cooking stoves is slightly higher due to the metal stove and oven.

What kind of stoves there are in terms of size, power, appearance is taken into account when choosing a suitable structure. All parts of the structure are interconnected, so when calculating how to install the firebox of a device with a stove, you must comply with the following requirements:

• installation of the firebox according to the drawing always corresponds to the standard size of the laid brick. Therefore, it is recommended to first fold the stove dry;
• For dacha needs, we lay out the device with thinner walls; for constant heating, it is better to install a thick-walled firebox or purchase a ready-made cast-iron structure.

Step-by-step laying diagram of the simplest design of a heating and cooking unit

If you have no experience as a stove maker, but are familiar with the principles of masonry, you can build a simple device for cooking and heating the building with your own hands. A Swedish-designed stove with a separate cooking structure is most suitable for beginners.

Getting started - laying out the zero and first rows of the furnace device in continuous masonry, with the obligatory bandaging of the rows. In this case, it is necessary to carefully align the horizontal and vertical planes with a building level, to ensure the accuracy of the angles on the entire surface of the base of the future heating structure.

Order according to the scheme:

• on the 3rd row, you need to lay out the blower chamber and begin installing the ash door (14x13 cm), securing it with steel wire or metal strips. 3/4 bricks should be installed on the sides of the device;
• on the left, the construction of a chimney channel with a size of 14 cm begins. A cleaning door is installed in the wall to select soot, which is best replaced with a half brick placed on the edge;
• on the 5th row, the ash door is covered with a brick, a 26x26 cm hole is formed for installing grates so that the ash from the burnt material pours into the prepared compartment;
• on the 6th row, the blower is reduced to 20 cm, which is slightly larger in width than the size of the grate. At the same time, it is necessary to narrow the smoke channel to 26x26 cm;
• in the 7th row, the bricks for the grate are slightly cut down to the size of the device so that the grate fits freely in the recess without being fixed with mortar;
• on the 8th row, the area of ​​the lower section of the firebox is formed (52×26 cm), a cast-iron firebox door is installed;
• 9, 10 rows are laid in accordance with the diagram, making sure to maintain the correct ligation of bricks, in which each masonry element rests on the 2 lower ones;
• on the 11th row the combustion door is completely secured. A cast iron hob is placed on top of the weak masonry mortar. The perimeter of the furnace device is strengthened with a metal corner (30×30 mm with a wall thickness of 4 mm);
• the formation of the chimney shield continues until the 20th row, repeating even and odd rows without change;
• on the 21st row, two vertical chimney channels are combined into one, forming a horizontal overlap of rows 22-23;
• the hole in the third channel is lined with bricks, observing dressings, forming a pipe for removing smoke.

The finished oven must be dried for 10-15 days with the doors open. Then it is recommended to gradually heat the device - first with thin branches, wood chips, gradually switching to wood fuel.

What to consider when laying a heating unit

Mandatory fire safety standards:

• the foundation of the heating structure should not come into contact with the foundation of the residential building;
• maintained minimum distance between the heating structure and wooden wall at home - 26 cm;
• the size of the metal sheet in front of the firebox is not less than 50×70 cm;
• elevation above the floor of the zero row - 14 cm or more;
• a gap of 35 cm (no less) is maintained from the top of the structure to the ceiling;
• the thickness of the chimney wall in the attic compartment is 12 centimeters or more;
• if the top attic space made of flammable material, it is necessary to fill the area with sand, 10-13 cm deep;
• the structure of the pipe above the roof is increased in width - at least 13 cm;
• if the pipe stands 3 meters or more from the ridge, its top is located 10° from the horizon line of the ridge;
• in cases where the distance is less than 3 meters, the pipe should rise 50 cm above the ridge.

How to fold a stove yourself

At self-masonry It is important to fully adhere to the chosen design order. In this case, the brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern so that each element rests on the 2 lower ones. You must first stock up on the required number of halves and quarters of bricks.

It is recommended that each row be laid dry first in order to remember the place of each brick in the masonry. The thickness of the seams is maintained within 3-5 cm. Excess mortar must be removed in a timely manner, without waiting for it to harden. Plastering the chimney is not allowed, as heat transfer will be disrupted.

If there is a gap between the door frame and the brickwork, it should be sealed with asbestos cord.

The structure of the heating and cooking unit must meet all the requirements of the drawing - only then will the hand-made product serve for a long time.

This article contains clear, very detailed photo instructions for laying a brick stove with your own hands, tips on how not to make mistakes when choosing the necessary materials and how to correctly place the stove in a private house for optimal heating of a larger area.

Options for installing a stove in the house

The placement of the stove depends entirely on what exactly the owners expect from it. If it is installed in the house small area and will be used as a fireplace for friendly gatherings, you can use the first scheme. This stove is a good option for cooking barbecue on the grill or kebabs.

Brick kiln placement options

The second scheme is for a house of solid square footage. IN in this case the front side of the fireplace stove opens into the living room, the stove walls heat both bedrooms, and the heat in the remaining rooms is maintained using heat exchange.

The third scheme with a stove for heating and cooking is a budget housing option for a bachelor or a small family. Pros: a warm bed and the ability to place a dryer in the hallway.

Important: it is worth taking care of the external insulation of the house in advance, because it greatly increases the efficiency of stove heating.

Selection of bricks, sand, mortar

In order for the stove to serve for a long time, you need to select all the materials correctly. There are three types of bricks:

1. Ceramic - can be used to build a stove.
2. Silicate ones are generally not suitable in this case, even double M150.
3. Fireproof - ideal, but they are often used only for fireboxes and fireplaces, varieties: fireclay, refractory bricks, etc.

Advice: when choosing a brick for a stove, you need to completely abandon the hollow types.

The solution is made from clay. Red clay is suitable if the stove is made of red brick; when using fireclay, special fireclay clay is required. Some stove makers still make their own solution from the old fashioned way. river sand with a grain of 1-1.5 mm, clay (in a ratio of 2.5:1) and water. It is advisable to use angular quarry sand without foreign inclusions and the so-called fatty clay. However, it is easier and more reliable to buy a ready-made baking mixture in the store, preparing it according to the instructions.

From the accessories you need to purchase grates, blower and combustion doors, soot cleaners, valves or dampers.

Preparation, list of tools

Before starting work, you need to determine and mark the place that the new stove will occupy.

The chimney pipe should be no closer than 15 cm from the roof rafters.

If you are doing masonry for the first time, professional stove makers advise you to practice in advance by making a model of the future stove from prepared bricks. Naturally, without a solution. This minimizes possible risks during real masonry, allowing you to learn from your mistakes, which can still be corrected in the layout.

The stove foundation requires preliminary waterproofing; its area must exceed the area of ​​the stove.

When laying a new row, you need to control the absolute verticality of the walls.

To build a brick kiln, the following tools are needed:

• plumb line;
• trowel;
• roulette;
• putty knife;
• Bulgarian;
• knitting wire;
• building level;
• metal strips, corners;
• containers for cement and clay mortar.

Step-by-step instructions with photos for laying a stove

Different stove makers have their own masonry technologies and their own secrets that come with years of experience. Here is information about a fairly simple way to create a stove-fireplace for heating two-story house, the process will not seem extremely difficult even to novice stove makers.

Foundation laying

The base course of brickwork will serve as the foundation. It is done with any brick; some stove makers even fill this level with crushed stone.

When laying the base row, cement mortar is used.

The foundation is completely filled with mortar, the layer is leveled.

Construction of the furnace body

The first row of stoves is marked. The horizontal line from which they start when marking is the wall of the room.

A grate is placed where the fireplace is planned to be placed. From this row, the bricks are already laid on the kiln mortar.

An important stage of work is the scrupulous alignment of each new row by level.

Laying the second row. The stove wall, located closest to the wall of the room, is reinforced with additional bricks to increase fire safety.

The place where it will be located in the 2nd row remains empty, the rest of the oven is filled in completely. A door is installed through which the owners will clean out the ash.

The door is installed on the solution and leveled. For a more reliable fixation, it is secured with wire, which must be laid between the bricks.

The grate is laid not on a simple brick, but on a refractory brick. To ensure that it lies at the same level as the bricks, holes are cut in the fireclay bricks.

The size of the brick can be easily adjusted - the excess is measured and carefully cut off.

The large door is mounted next to the installed grille.

The large oven door is similarly secured using wire fasteners.

The first row of fireboxes is placed exactly above the fireplace, it is reinforced with metal corners and a strip or thick tin. So that the masonry can lie on them, it is cut using a grinder, then the slots are adjusted manually to the desired size.

The next brick row is laid.

A fireplace grate is laid on the fire-resistant brick along with the brick row.

The door is fixed, the brick is strictly adjusted to it.

The firebox of the new stove and fireplace is ready.

Fire-resistant fireclay bricks are placed above the stove firebox.

The stove body is built.

Creating a chimney

The space left for the chimney is divided into wells. The design requires reinforcement with metal plates.

Brick chimney wells are laid.

Soot cleaners are mounted above the firebox roof.

The wells are divided again, the first rows of walls should be reinforced with strips of metal.

After strengthening, the ceiling of the furnace body is erected. The space associated with the chimney remains empty.

The body cornice is laid out, then the chimneys are laid.

The final stage of work on the first floor. The stove is located at the bottom left, the smoke inside the chimneys moves in a spiral and comes out at the top left. The final separation of the wells is covered with a tin sheet. In order to compensate for the pressure inside the fireplace stove, 2 brick rows are laid on the tin.

There are two chimneys stretching to the second floor of the house - from the fireplace and the stove itself, they are separated from each other. Each chimney requires the installation of a separate damper.

Floor level of the second floor. Waterproofing is installed here, the chimney is again reinforced with metal corners. To save money and avoid building a heating stove on the second floor, the chimney of the stove under construction is again divided. The smoke will snake through it, managing to warm up the room. In order for the chimney to warm up much faster, it is laid in the area of ​​the second floor with a thickness of 1/4 or 1/2 brick.

A hole for the stove chimney is carefully cut out in the roof.

Before placing the chimney on the roof, it is reinforced with metal corners.

If the chimney is located in close proximity to the roof ridge, it must be laid out at least 0.5 meters above the ridge. If further, then the height of the chimney is allowed equal to the height of the ridge, but not lower. In this case, the wind increases the stove draft, lifting the smoke upward.

Even a small stove in the house means coziness and comfort. Stoves bigger size require increased skill and additional materials, however, the principle of their construction is similar to the method described above.