Brazier made of oven bricks. DIY brick grill

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A metal grill is definitely good. But, in addition to functionality, you also want beauty, especially on the site: in the country or near the house. A brick barbecue gives an attractive look without reducing functionality. There are absolutely simple models, which can be put together, even without skill, in a day or two; there are more complex ones - entire complexes. We don’t recommend building these without experience, but try a simple barbecue oven or just a brick grill. Master masonry and basic techniques, and then you can take on more serious projects.

Barbecue grill - what's the difference?

There is no exact division between grills and barbecues. The main difference is that barbecue is cooked on skewers, while barbecue is cooked on a grill. But both of these cooking methods can be used even over a fire, so - for us, at least - both the grill and the barbecue are one design.

You can also classify by the presence of a roof. A barbecue is always an open device, without a chimney. In barbecues, especially those made of brick, chimneys are often made, although there are also simple open models.

Simple brick grill

This design is very simple and can be easily modified to suit any needs and desires. It consists of brick walls in which projections are arranged (the brick is placed on its edge). Heat-resistant sheets (metal, etc.), grates, and skewers are placed on these protrusions. Convenient, especially if there is some kind of roof over your head in case of precipitation, but it is built separately and at will.

Project and photo ready-made barbecue/brick barbecue

Any brick structure requires a foundation, or at least a prepared foundation. Not even this small brick grill. Since there are not many bricks - the wall is half a brick, then under this design A compacted area lined with some kind of hard surface is suitable.

Preparing the base

Filming fertile layer, if necessary, deepen the pit. The depth should be about 20-25 cm. The dimensions of the foundation or platform are 50 cm larger than the dimensions of the stove in all directions. The bottom is leveled, crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured onto it. The thickness of the crushed stone layer is 15 cm. It is compacted well. It is advisable to use a vibrating plate, if not, a metal or wooden tamper.

Further steps depend on the selected base. If this is one of the coverings - paving stones, paving slabs and similar materials, then a layer of fine-grained sand is poured into which the coating is laid level.

If a slab foundation is chosen as the base, it is reinforced with a rod 10 mm in diameter. It is laid along and across the foundation in increments of 20 cm, and tied at the intersection. If you don’t know how to knit with special wire, you can tie it with plastic clamps. Reinforcement with a finished mesh of thick wire is allowed for this model. The formwork is placed around the edges and everything is poured. Work can begin in a week if the average daily temperature was not lower than +20°C, and in two if it was +17°C.

For this brick grill they use a solid ceramic brick M200. You can use a stove-type one, but it’s more expensive; you shouldn’t use fireclay: it’s not the right temperature and it doesn’t like moisture too much to feel normal in an open grill.

The masonry is laid using a clay-sand mixture, to which a little cement is added for greater strength. For beginners, it is better to take a ready-made mixture for stoves, but not heat-resistant, without fireclay. Knead according to the instructions, seam thickness - 3-5 mm, maintain strictly. Constantly monitor the verticality of the walls and the horizontality of the masonry. This is important for normal operation of the oven.

As you can see, everything is really very simple. Each odd row starts with a whole brick, the odd row starts with a half. In the 6th and 10th rows, the bricks are placed on a spoon - sideways, and turned across the main masonry. If you make a barbecue - under the grill - in the same rows back wall they are laid from bricks, also placed on spoons, and to maintain the thickness of the masonry they are placed in two rows, just like the rest - with bandaging - displacement of the seams. If you are going to use the grill for skewers, place a brick on the back wall, also on a spoon, making a ledge in this area as well. In front, a profile is used as a support for skewers. metal pipe small sections, cut to size. You can make recesses in it for skewers.

Starting from the 7th row, the laying is carried out only on half - right or left - as is convenient for you, but this layout is given under the frying chamber on the left - it is wider, and there is a table on the left. If it’s more convenient for you the other way around, do a mirror image of this order.

Brick is a hygroscopic material; in order to reduce the amount of moisture that it will “pull” from the base and extend its service life, waterproofing is needed under the first row. You can lay rolled material (such as roofing felt or waterproofing material) in two layers and walk around the perimeter hydrophobic impregnation. A layer of waterproofing between the first and second rows would not hurt either.

This is what one of the variations of a brick grill looks like without a table (if you don’t need one, just ignore this part)

After the brick grill is built, it is left to dry at warm weather for 1-2 days, in cooler conditions - for 3-5. Then you can do a test run. Approximate “equipment” is shown in the photograph of the finished barbecue. This version has three rows of protrusions: the top one is for food, the middle one is for coals, and the bottom one is for collecting burnt coals and ash.

In order for a folded grill to serve more or less long, it is advisable to coat it with a composition that reduces hygroscopicity. For this case, KO-85 varnish is best suited. And it would also be nice to provide some kind of lid: close it in case of rain and for the winter.

Brick barbecue with pipe: order

This barbecue option is a little more complicated, but also not the most complicated. The most important thing is that the combustion chamber here has a direct arch, and it is much easier to make it with a vaulted one. The brick frying chamber is raised to a height of 90 cm, the total height to the beginning of the pipe is 217.5 cm.

It all starts with preparing the foundation. For this barbecue oven, only a monolithic reinforced base (reinforcement step 15 cm) on a compacted crushed stone base is suitable. Waterproofing is spread in two layers on the dried foundation, then masonry begins. If the barbecue is made in a gazebo, the first row of masonry should begin at floor level. If the foundation is lower, lay out an additional row (or two) of bricks, and then begin laying according to the given diagram.

The first 9 rows do not require any special explanation. Lay exactly according to the plan, maintaining order, using halves and cut bricks, if indicated on the plan. Be sure to check the verticality of the resulting walls, as well as control the thickness of the mortar - 8-10 mm and the horizontal laying of each brick.

To control the thickness of the seam, you can use a reinforcement bar of the appropriate diameter. It is placed on the edge, the surface of the row is filled with mortar, and the excess just above the rod is cut off with a trowel. After laying and tapping the bricks, an even seam is obtained - the rod does not allow the brick to sink lower than necessary. The rod is then removed and placed higher.

To be able to lay the 6th row (solid), after laying the 5th, lay a strip of metal 4-5 mm thick, 40 mm wide. The length is slightly less than the span of the furnace - 1450 mm. 3 stripes are needed - one at the edge, two approximately in the middle of each row of bricks or as indicated below (11th row).

The layout of the next rows of barbecues is clear. Only in the 12th row, pay attention - you need bricks sawn lengthwise. It is also worth saying that the 12th and 13th rows are larger than the lower ones - forming a decorative “belt”.

The light color in these rows indicates fireclay brick (ША-8). Place it on the same composition of clay and sand (a small proportion of cement can be added). It is better not to use chamotte-based mixtures: they require very high temperatures for sintering, which street barbecues unattainable. As a result, this solution may subsequently simply crumble.

At this part of the order, everything is also clear: we begin to form the arch of the firebox. It overlaps on the 22nd row, in which a gradual narrowing begins.

The formation of the vault continues, which in the 30th row turns into a chimney. Next, alternate the 30th and 31st rows until the required height is reached.

Video

Photo of brick barbecue

First, a few simpler options. You can make these brick barbecues yourself.

Variations on the same theme - original finish

Several barbecues that you can build if you already have some experience, but it’s better to entrust it to a specialist (if you find it, of course)

You have a dacha. You want to make it not only beautiful, but also convenient and comfortable for your family and friends to relax. And so that everything doesn’t cost too much. Don't know where to start? Do-it-yourself brick barbecues and barbecues for a summer cottage made from a photo are an ideal start for arranging a summer cottage. We assure you that after reading this article and looking at the drawings, you will build an ideal barbecue on your site, on which you will then cook delicious and healthy food.

A step-by-step guide to preparing and building a DIY brick barbecue

Preliminary work (layout and drawings)

Before you build a brick grill, you need to carefully consider what it will be like. We recommend paying attention to the following points:

When you decide what kind of barbecue you want to make, make detailed drawings with exact dimensions. Thanks to them, you will not only be able to correctly build the structure itself, but also calculate the amount of materials needed.

Choosing a place for the barbecue

Brick barbecues can be located anywhere in the summer cottage - in the garden, in the gazebo, on the terrace - as long as it is convenient. But we advise you to consider the following recommendations:

The first and most important point– fire safety! Do not build garden barbecues near wooden buildings, dead trees or bushes.
There should not be a playground nearby.
It is convenient if the stove and the brick wall of the summer kitchen are located nearby, so as not to have to run far for groceries and everything else.

If the project includes a sink, build a water supply nearby.

To ensure that the future roaster stands well and firmly for many years, make its base as reliable and stable as possible. The dimensions and strength of the foundation depend on the dimensions of the planned structure. In any case, the foundation should be larger in area than the barbecue by approximately 50 cm on each side.

After two weeks (if it’s hot, maybe less), when everything has hardened well, you can start building a barbecue with your own hands.

Choosing a brick for a barbecue

Here again we should remember about fire safety. If the barbecue is indoors, you should take a special fire-resistant fireclay brick; it contains a lot of clay, due to which it can withstand high temperatures well and quickly warms up the room.

Types of bricks used for barbecue construction

If the future construction is planned to be outdoors, then professionals do not recommend making everything from fireclay bricks, since they do not like moisture. It is better to take solid ceramic brick M200 or facing. It will be made of fireclay bricks inner part the firebox itself.

If desired, at the final stage of construction of the barbecue, its decorative finishing is done.

Preparing the solution

For cladding you need a cement-sand mixture, and for laying the stove itself, clay-sand with the addition of a small amount of cement for strength. You can take a ready-made mixture for stoves and prepare it according to the instructions.

To prepare your own clay solution, you will need:

red clay;
sand;
cement;
water.

The clay is filled with water and left for 5-6 days. Then it is thoroughly mixed, sand and cement are added little by little (a glass of cement 400 per bucket) and mixed again. The mixture is ready to use.

After the foundation has hardened before construction, two layers of roofing felt must be placed on it for waterproofing. This is done so that the brick draws less moisture from the base, this will extend its service life.

Then we determine the position of the wall, apply the solution and begin to build a brick grill with our own hands.

Be sure to check everything with a level so that the masonry is even, as this will affect the quality of the stove in the future.

Laying a simple brick grill (arrangement)

To build such a barbecue, carefully consider the diagram according to which it is made step by step masonry, the so-called order.

The so-called half-brick masonry is performed: each odd row (1,3, etc.) begins with a whole, and each even row (2, 4, etc.) with a half. This is done for a bunch of bricks.

We lay a ceiling on top of the 4th row, on which dishes can then be placed.

On the 8th row you need to put 4 thick-walled corners, as shown in the figure. We lay the 9th row on the corners.

In the 10th row, all the beauty of this barbecue is “piano keys”. They can be cut with a grinder from white fireclay and red facing bricks.

The last 2 rows - and the grill is ready. Please note that in the 11th and 12th rows longitudinal halves of bricks are used.

The skewers and grill will then be placed on them.

View from all sides

This is what our brick piano grill looks like from different sides.

Option 1 - drawing with dimensions (click to enlarge)

Final result with dimensions.

Option 2, improved - drawing with dimensions (click to enlarge)

Another option for a barbecue piano. It is wider and the back wall is built from the very bottom. Watch the video for the laying process of this option.

This was the one that was easy to build on your own, even without experience in this field.

Do-it-yourself brick barbecue - step-by-step construction with real photos

Let's consider another option, more complex - how to make a brick barbecue with your own hands, which includes two lower compartments for firewood, dishes and other small items, a combustion chamber, a tabletop and a chimney at the top.

For the construction of the structure itself in this case they used facing brick, and fireproof for the inside of the oven.

Initial stage of construction

We begin laying in the same way as described above. The lower part will be in the shape of the letter “W”, only the compartments will be different in width. The wider one for firewood will have a firebox and chimney above it. The second is for dishes and other accessories; there will be a table top at the top.

We make even seams between rows

To ensure that there is an identical and even seam between the bricks everywhere, a metal strip is used here when laying, the cross-section of which is square with a side of 12 mm. But we recommend taking something thinner - 5-10 mm will be enough. You also need to constantly control the level of verticality and horizontality of the masonry.

Brick laying process

The plank is placed on the edge, as shown in photo 4, then carefully covered with mortar. On the side where the bar was placed, we place the mixture equally with it, on the other side, a little more, in a slide. We lay the brick, hold it with one hand on the side of the plank, and lightly tap it with a hammer on the other side to level it. When the solution dries a little, remove the bar.

To make the laying process move faster, there must be several planks, since they are needed for each row.

Posting bottom part- first 10 rows

According to this principle, 10 rows are laid out.

Preparing the base for the firebox and countertop

Next will be the firebox and countertop. On the 10th row we place reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm. The distance between the rods is 70 mm. Formwork is placed between the reinforcement so that the mixture does not fall down when the seams between the bricks are filled.

Professional advice: it is better to take metal corners, as there is a possibility that the reinforcement will bend under the weight.

Lay out the brick and fill with mortar

Bricks are laid out at equal distances from each other over the entire area. Those that fall on previously erected walls are placed on the mortar, the rest are simply placed on the formwork. Then the gaps between the bricks and the surface are filled with mortar.

We form the combustion chamber and vault

After drying, the firebox is erected - 8 rows are laid out vertically. Next, the back part, which is located near the wall, is also erected, and the remaining three sides are narrowed upward by half a brick. So another 9 rows are laid out.

We are building a chimney

The next stage is the chimney. In this case, 20 rows are made of brick, and at the top there is a stainless exhaust pipe. A high chimney is needed so that the smoke does not disturb you or your neighbors, and the draft is better.

The last stage of construction - finishing the countertop and firebox

AND finishing touches– the countertop is tiled, and the inside of the firebox is lined with refractory bricks.

Final result

After a few days for complete drying, the barbecue is ready for use.

We recommend watching a video that shows the entire process of laying a garden brick oven.

Below in the gallery you can see more photos of barbecues and barbecues for your dacha made from brick with your own hands, and choose the one that is suitable in style, functionality and location specifically for your site.

In the gazebo On the terrace
With hob On the street With built-in smokehouse

There is no fundamental difference between barbecues and barbecues, except that in the first, food is cooked on skewers, and in the second, on a grill. Both can be done on one structure, the construction of which will be discussed.

Often, a country barbecue is a simple outdoor building in the open air. A brick barbecue is a more complex device, which can be located in a summer kitchen, gazebo or outdoors, but it already has a chimney and, in most cases, a cover to protect from rain and snow.

A temporary brick cooking device is a great summer option.

If you do not plan to be at the dacha in winter, then a barbecue or grill made of brick without mortar is perfect for this purpose. In the spring it can be easily and quickly folded and disassembled for the winter.

Laying scheme without mortar

Here is the diagram and step-by-step instruction, which shows the manufacture of similar grills and barbecues made of brick.

If the barbecue is planned to be small (9-10 rows of bricks), you can simply level and compact the ground well. For a larger structure, it is better to pour a foundation.

We begin to lay out the bricks according to the same principle as in the previous versions, but in a circle and with gaps of approximately 50 mm.

We lay a steel sheet on top of the 5th row, which will serve as a tray for coal.

Add 2 more rows and install a cooking grate. Then 2 more rows for protection from the wind.

To build such a round barbecue, you will need a little more than 100 bricks.

This is one example of a temporary barbecue, you can change it at your own discretion. Or choose and build one of the options shown in the photo below.

How to build an outdoor stove with your own hands is a relevant question both for residents of non-gasified regions and for inhabitants of completely civilized places. The first are interested in the opportunity to cook food in the warm season using waste fuel (dead wood, dead wood, construction chips) - a brownie in the summer is not very economical, and it makes the house very hot while preparing dinner. Secondly, the opportunity to sit by the fire in a gazebo or on the lawn in a relaxation corner at the dacha or on your own property, while at the same time preparing barbecue or barbecue ribs, without shelling out a mind-boggling amount for a turnkey branded garden stove. Both are also attracted by the opportunity to receive home-smoked products that are obviously not adulterated and are much cheaper than store-bought ones.

Which one to build?

First, let's see what kind of stove it is possible to build outdoors, taking into account the fact that it will not be heated intensively and irregularly, but will be exposed to climatic influences, freeze in winter, and it will be difficult to provide it with a high chimney. But also the danger from spread carbon monoxide from an outdoor stove is reduced to the minimum possible, although it is not eliminated completely, especially in a gazebo, under a canopy and in calm weather. Don't forget about this: there is no stove that can be heated at random without fear of fumes. You can get burned just sitting by the fire.

Keeping these circumstances in mind, the choice of outdoor stove design is not so wide. The simplest garden stove is the well-known rough or rough stove. She can look terrifying, pos. 1 in Fig., but it can be heated with any fuel and it works properly almost regardless of the quality of the materials used and the work: when building a rough structure, you can use broken simple red working bricks or stones from the surrounding area using ordinary cement-sand masonry mortar, t .To. microcracks in the masonry have almost no effect on the technical performance of this stove. See, for example, the video below of how a 5-year-old child built a rough stove, which his family successfully uses and which can also be used for smoking. Which, by the way, not every oven allows, see below.

Video: a simple stove, a rough one, a design accessible to a child

An outdoor stove at a weekend cottage is often a barbecue roaster, pos. 2. Although, as we will see later, in fact this is not a barbecue at all. It takes about the same amount or less bricks for such a stove as for a rough one (about 200 pcs.), and you can use red working brick in the same way, but masonry mortar due to, so to speak, the subtlety of the structure, a stove for the street is needed (see below, about technology and materials).

Based on the brazier, the so-called. Finnish outdoor brick oven, which is a hearth, brazier or barbecue attached to a rough stove, pos. 3. In fact, the only Finnish thing about such a stove is that the Finns were the first to think of producing them in the form of a set - construction instructions with detailed instructions and procedures, dry mixture for preparing masonry mortar, embedded parts, fittings. Now domestic kits for building an outdoor brick oven are sold in the Russian Federation. Sometimes the set also includes bricks; if necessary, hemmed/trimmed and numbered. A kit for an outdoor Finnish stove is inexpensive, and even a completely inexperienced person can build a stove from it, which is why Finnish outdoor stoves from a kit are very popular, see for example. track. video clip.

Video: Finnish outdoor stove

Note: A stationary smokehouse is also often attached to a wood-burning stove, pos. 4. But during use, it turns out that in the cooking mode the stove is quite gluttonous, and the quality of smoked meats is slightly above average. Why this is so and how to still combine an outdoor oven with a smokehouse, we’ll talk further.

Even less common in areas is an outdoor fireplace, pos. 5. The reason is limited functionality: you can admire the flames and cook something as if on a simple fireplace, although the material and labor intensity of an outdoor fireplace is quite high. A Russian stove is built on the street (item 6) even less often. The culinary qualities of products and dishes from a Russian oven are well known, but a small Russian oven requires 2500 bricks, a large one - 3500, the design is very complex and it is not easy to protect it from bad weather. For the same reasons, Neapolitan (item 7) and Sicilian ovens for pizza and pastries are not very common in private households; In addition, these are quite highly specialized devices.

Note: For dachas and picnics, the so-called deserves much more attention. mobile rocket oven, pos. 8. Rocket stoves - . Here we only recall that rocket stoves exist in 2 forms - a luxury item that allows you to get a warm bed at home without building a Russian stove, and a light, compact device on which you can quickly cook dinner using a minimum amount of waste fuel. In the latter case, the degree of heating of the cooking utensil is regulated as precisely as in a gas stove.

Cooking questions

In order to correctly make the stove you like, and before that, choose the right design, you need to know exactly what which outdoor stove can do. Therefore, before the technical and construction aspects, we will have to be distracted by culinary issues.

Oven or smokehouse?

An oven and a smokehouse are completely different devices. The furnace is required to “squeeze” as much heat as possible from the fuel load and not allow it to be wasted in space. Therefore, furnaces are designed (perhaps intuitively, based on the experience of generations) to burn fuel to the final combustion products - carbon dioxide and water vapor.

What is required, on the contrary, is not high thermal efficiency, and as much smoke as possible. But not just smoke that eats your eyes. Firstly, smoke for smoking should ideally not contain solid particles of unburned fuel. The final product should be smoked, not soot-encrusted. Anyone who has seen how a good industrial smokehouse works has probably noticed that in the area where the product is loaded, there is almost no visible smoke.

Secondly, smoke for smoking should not contain substances harmful to health. It is impossible to organize this chemically when burning organic fuel, so smokehouses are built in such a way that harmful impurities either “skip” past the smoked substance, or are neutralized and settle before it.

There is an important point here: over a temperature range of approx. It is extremely undesirable to smoke at 35-50 degrees, because... It is at such temperatures that there is a high probability of acid condensation; it is formed as a result of the interaction of chemically active particles of unburned fuel, the so-called. free radicals, water vapor and air oxygen. The acidified product not only tastes disgusting, but is also dangerous to health. Therefore, a trace is distinguished. types of smoking:

Cold – the temperature in the smokehouse is up to 35 degrees. Preparation of products - salting in brine (saturated solution of table salt) and soaking immediately before loading into the smokehouse. Smoking time – from 5-6 days; breaks are not allowed. The taste of the finished product is the highest; shelf life without the use of means and methods of additional preservation can be calculated in months and years.
Semi-hot (semi-cold) – smoking temperature 60-70 degrees. Preparation of products - short soaking in brine. The smoking period until ready is 0.5-2 days. Taste qualities are very high; the taste and bouquet are similar to those of cold smoked products. Keeping quality up to a month; usually up to 5 days.
Hot – at a temperature of 85-120 degrees. Product preparation is not necessary. Smoking time – 1-5 hours. The taste qualities are very high, but the taste and aroma are not the same as those of cold smoked products. Shelf life without additional preservation up to 36 hours.

Considering the above, we can conclude that, firstly, the smokehouse for an outdoor stove must be a separate device. Any stove is not a smoke generator for smoking and it is impossible to set up the smoking process from the stove only by loading fuel and supplying air into the firebox; you also need to select the length of the flue from the outlet of the stove to the smoking chamber. Secondly, to feed a smokehouse with smoke, the simplest stove with low efficiency and a smoke tooth is best suited, see below.

Grill, grill and barbecue

An open flame is the enemy of any cooked food. Burning is only the visible and palpable “tip of the iceberg”: exposure to high temperatures on food products causes hydrolysis of fats, breakdown of carbohydrates and deep denaturation of proteins, saturating food with substances that are very harmful to health. In simple culinary ovens using solid fuel, direct contact of the food with the flame is avoided. different ways. What they have in common is that the food is not only baked, but also smoked, which is why, when properly prepared, its taste improves.

Grill

The hearth oven, which is commonly called, is actually a classic Anglo-Saxon grill, the diagram of which is given on the left in Fig. Confusion arose in Canada, where French and English were mixed together. The grill structure follows from Anglo-Saxon culinary traditions, the essence of which was exaggeratedly but accurately expressed by Stubb from Melville’s novel “Moby Dick”: “You must take a piece of meat, from afar for a moment show it a slightly smoldering coal and immediately serve the steak to me!” Remember “bloody roast beef” from Eugene Onegin? In restaurants, baked meat is still offered rare - half-raw with blood, medium - baked until soft, juicy, like a kebab, and well done - crispy in a crispy crust.

Note: If you suddenly find yourself in the southwestern United States, there may be something incomprehensible on the menu - hanaban (pronounced hanaban). This is a kebab in spices, removed from a skewer, something like Arabic khusal.

The grill is suitable for cooking rare, medium, and well done meat. This is achieved by placing the grate with the product at different levels above the brazier with coals. Coals rarely flare up, because... scattered in a thin layer over a dense floor and air access to them is limited. If they flare up, then the piece is simply moved to the side.

Brazier

Rare meat can be very tasty, but southern countries, where pathogens of various diseases thrive, and are very dangerous. In addition, in many countries of the South, pork is not eaten at all, and beef and lamb are rare and harsh. Hence the design of the barbecue (in the center in the figure): a holey under and partly the walls of a deep tray, a thick layer of coals. The meat is heated not only by thermal radiation, but also by a flow of hot air.

B-B-Q

In a real French barbecue (oh, those pampered paddling pools!), heat radiation is not involved at all in cooking. The design of a barbecue oven is quite complex (on the right in the figure), but reliable and multifunctional:

Thanks to the separate cooking chamber with hood, the wind and outside temperature have almost no effect on the quality of the finished product.
If you close the chamber portal with a flap lid, like in a Russian oven, the chamber turns into a semi-hot or hot smoked smokehouse.
You can bake bread, cook pot roast, etc. in the oven. If salting the dish is undesirable, it is cooked in a container with a tight lid.
Woodshed and dryer are relative concepts. Here and there you can dry mushrooms, berries, and fruits that require different drying modes. Additionally, it is regulated by dampers.

Note: Pay attention to the protrusion of the hearth, which does not completely separate the firebox from the oven. This is the so-called. a smoke tooth or jib is a radical means of reducing the dependence of the technical performance of any outdoor stove on weather conditions, see below.

Outdoor stove designs

Not just a stove

The simplest outdoor stove is a 2-burner stove with a tunnel firebox, divided by a smoke tooth into a flame (the firebox itself) and a smoke chamber, diagram on the left in the figure:

House stove fireboxes are not made with a smoke tooth: it reduces the efficiency of the stove and increases the risk of carbon monoxide emissions. However, for a summer outdoor stove, both are unimportant, but the smoke tooth in its firebox is:

Reduces the dependence of the combustion mode on the direction and strength of the wind;
Allows you to load low-calorie waste fuel into the stove;
Allows you to heat water on a small burner in the wind and cold and cook the first dish in a tall dish, because at the pass above the single file, a high temperature develops from the fiery chamber into the smoke chamber and is released a large number of heat;
Makes it possible, under a certain firebox mode (see below), to start a stove with a smokehouse; in this case, the smoke chamber works as an afterburner for the smokehouse smoke generator.

The height of the passage between the top of the jib and the plate forming the cooking surface is usually approx. 70 mm. However, the jib needs to be adjusted, which is not difficult: it is laid out in a ready-made oven from bricks (maybe not hewn) without dressing and even dry. Depending on the ratio of the size of the firebox, the diameter and height of the chimney, the optimal clearance between the smoke tooth and the furnace roof may be 15-20 mm, as for example in the photo on the right. If uniform heating of both burners is required, then the jib is placed not under the back, but between the burners, but in no case under the front - the stove will smoke a lot and will not heat.

About smokehouses for the stove

Schemes of smokehouses for a 2-burner stove with a smoke tooth are shown on the right in the previous page. rice. The height of each is 1-1.5 m; other sizes can be taken proportionally. Chimney diameter – 130-150 mm. The strainer is designed to trap soot and should be cleaned before each load of food. However, it is highly advisable to wrap the products loaded into these smokehouses with 3-4 layers of thin gauze.

In all respects, a smokehouse with a side smoke inlet is better. Firstly, it allows you to perform not only hot, but also semi-hot smoking; It is convenient to regulate the length of the gas duct from the stove to the smokehouse by connecting them with a thin-walled metal corrugated hose. Secondly, an ordinary baking sheet is suitable for collecting fat in it, and in a smokehouse with bottom smoke supply, the baking sheet must have an opening with a shell. You can’t let fat drip down into the smokehouse: you can’t get it off afterwards, it stinks terribly and transfers its aroma to the products.

Note: The smokehouse chimney must be equipped with a wind cap. To avoid acid dew in the smokehouse, do not smoke in cold, damp or windy weather.

Advanced plate

A 2-burner stove with a smoke chamber does not necessarily have to look like a primitive fire pit excavated by archaeologists. It can be multifunctional and technically advanced, i.e. economical. Drawings and ordering of an improved outdoor slab for a summer residence and country house are shown in Fig. Although its design is quite complicated for a beginner, to assemble this stove you will only need approx. 200 stove bricks.

This design uses a technical solution first used in a Swedish stove: the firebox and smoke chamber are separated by an oven instead of a smoke tooth; the gas tunnel above it is highlighted in red. In such a stove structure there is no room left for a woodcutter, but in return:

The oven mode is stabilized in almost any weather with early spring until late autumn.
Thermal efficiency is over 65%, like a good cooking and heating stove.
It is possible to use a chimney with a height of only 1.2 m above the level of the hob.
The heating of the burners is almost uniform and strong.
The extensive smoke chamber is an effective afterburner, which releases heat sufficient to heat the water heating tank.
The loss of soot in the smoke chamber when firing with waste fuel is abundant. Therefore, the presence of a cleaning hatch with a door is mandatory, but the stove interfaces with the smokehouse without any problems.
The danger of burning from such a stove is no higher than from a Swedish stove or any other home stove. Therefore, this stove can be used as a home stove for a small room; then, instead of the smokehouse, it is constantly interfaced with the heating panel.

The masonry of the improved outdoor slab is made using clay-cement mortar for outdoor ovens with moisture-resistant joints, see below. In the smoking mode, this stove is fired from the ash pit with the firebox door tightly closed. Fuel - shavings or thin splinters (not wood chips!) deciduous tree, except for birch, albeit completely healthy. Otherwise, the products will acquire a nasty taste of birch tar. The side exit to the chimney, in addition to the convenience of interfacing with the smokehouse, eliminates the loss of acid condensate in the stove.

Fireplace grill, barbecue and barbecue

Here in Fig. the order of a simple outdoor stove-fireplace, which can be successfully used as a grill, is given; red indicates stove brick, orange indicates fireclay brick. A tent over the fireplace reduces the dependence of the quality of cooked food on weather conditions. Rows 1-12 make up the woodshed; its height can be reduced to save material and work. The woodshed is covered with a reinforced concrete or stone slab 40-80 mm thick, on which the actual structure of the stove is erected (rows 13-35). Row 25 along the façade rests on a pair of 40mm angle steel embeds.

On the trail. rice. – arrangement of an outdoor barbecue oven (more precisely, a grill) with a hob. It is more complicated than the previous one, because arched furnace portal (rows 17-22). The arch is laid out in circles, as in the construction of a Russian stove. This barbecue oven will cost much less than the previous one, because... there are 8 fewer rows of masonry and fireclay bricks are not used. However, the possibilities of using this stove as a fireplace are very limited: the steel hearth under the fireplace will soon burn out due to regular heating. It will also not be possible to cook well-done meat in this oven: due to the high thermal conductivity of the steel hearth, the coals will either go out too quickly, or, if piled on in a thick layer, they will flare up and burn the product.

Finally, onto the trail. rice. – a complex, expensive and labor-intensive, but multifunctional and efficient outdoor oven-grill with a 2-burner hob; yellow indicates a clay-sand fill, like between the vault and the bench of a Russian stove. Upper smoke threshold (rows 15-20 on section B-B) functions similarly to the smoke tooth of a classic English fireplace. In the niche between it and the portal (highlighted in pink) you can smoke food during other culinary processes: in order for acidic condensation to fall out in such a pocket, you need to load the oven in absolutely disgusting weather with absolutely disgusting fuel.

Technology issues

Base

Under the foundation of the outdoor stove, they dig a pit on the bayonet of a shovel (30 cm). First, an anti-heaving sand cushion with a thickness (thickness) of 15 cm is poured into the pit and compacted, and crushed stone backfill is placed over it to the ground level. The backfill is carefully leveled to the horizon. The extension of the sides of the pit beyond the contour of the furnace in plan is from 400 mm.

Further, if the foundation of the furnace is a ready-made concrete monolith, the foundation slab is simply placed on crushed stone. If the foundation is poured with your own hands, formwork with a height of 80-150 mm is made under it. Reinforcement is standard 2-level. Solution - from M250. It is impossible to lay the foundation of the furnace flush with the ground: it will soon become clogged with soil and its “chemistry” will ruin the lower rows of the masonry, which is equivalent to re-laying the entire furnace. To avoid tripping over the threshold of the foundation, a gently sloping blind area is made of curb stone or cement-sand mortar along its contour.

If the stove is built in a gazebo, on a veranda and generally on wooden floor sufficient load-bearing capacity, removal of the furnace base must be done according to the rules fire safety: from 600 mm on the combustion door side and from 300 mm on the other sides. Asbestos cardboard with a thickness of 4 mm or basalt mineral cardboard with a thickness of 6 mm or more is placed on the floor, then a sheet of roofing iron is placed. The iron flooring is moistened with a liquid clay solution, felt or basalt cardboard is placed on it and impregnated with the same solution. Laying the furnace structure begins when the clay impregnation is completely dry.

Brick

For an outdoor stove, you need exactly stove brick: dense, well-annealed. A rough stove or a 2-burner stove with a smoke tooth, in which the firebox does not get very hot, can be made of red working bricks, incl. hollow - the stove warms up faster and loses less heat in vain. Sand-lime brick is absolutely unsuitable for stoves, and fireclay masonry in outdoor stoves should be avoided: due to the high moisture absorption of fireclay bricks, it is susceptible to frost in the open air in winter.

Note: Why would the authors of some publications and the rewriters who are crazy about stealing their material think that the stove can be made from gas blocks, the Almighty hardly knows. It's foam cement mortar. Under the influence of high temperatures, cement gradually but quite quickly loses water of crystallization and disintegrates into dust.

Masonry mortar and masonry

Ordinary clay stove mortar is unsuitable for outdoor stoves: it will become limp during the period of inactivity during spring and autumn bad weather. Stoves with a relaxed thermal regime (rough, 2-burner with a smoke chamber) can be laid on a cement-sand mortar from M250 (Portland cement from M500: sand 1:3 - 1:3.5); in extreme cases, it won’t take long to completely shift them. Sometimes outdoor stoves at weekend dachas are placed on the same mortar with reinforcement of 6-7 mm thick seams with 3 mm thick steel mesh. However, with more or less regular use, a stove folded in this way will last no more than 5-7 years.

To build a truly durable outdoor stove, you will have to buy dry stove mortar for laying outdoor stoves and seal it according to the instructions. In general, this is a clay-cement-sand mortar, but the quality of the clay for it must be tested in the laboratory, and the dry mixture must be prepared on production equipment. If you don't mind taking the risk of laying down a rough or slab first, a trail of mortar for laying outdoor stoves is prepared at home. way:

White or gray fatty clay is mixed with a large amount of water and left to “sour” for three days;
The first two days the clay solution is periodically stirred, the third day it is allowed to settle;
The suspension is drained, and the clay sediment is pressed through a sieve with a mesh size of 1.5 mm and dried in the shade;
Dry clay is crushed to a fraction no larger than 1.5 mm and Portland cement grade M400 or higher is added in an amount of 10-15% of the volume of clay;
Make a “sausage” test for the fat content of the clay-cement mixture, as when preparing stove mortar with your own hands;
Add mountain sand of fraction 0.5-1.5 mm to the dry mixture to the desired fat content. Gully and rounded quartz river sand no good. Only now the mixture is ready to work.

You need to prepare masonry mortar for the stove, from a purchased or homemade mixture, in small portions so that it can be worked out in 2-3 hours, because The clay-cement-sand mortar dries and separates in the bucket. For beginners, it is better to make a bucket of mortar at a time; it will be enough for 100-120 bricks. It is better to apply the mortar onto the brick with the palm of your hand in a layer of approx. 3 mm. The squeezed-out excess is immediately removed with a finger, and the seams from the outside are cut with a wooden stick to a depth of 4-5 mm for moisture insulation, see below.

Note: The thickness of the seam between fireclay and red stove bricks is 6 mm, because the moduli of their thermal expansion coefficients (TCE) are different.

Seam protection

Neither cladding with tiles, stone or face bricks, nor plastering with moisture-resistant plaster will completely protect the masonry joints of an outdoor stove from getting wet. A radical way to protect external joints from moisture has appeared only in our time: grouting the joints with glue for porcelain tiles. The seams are rubbed down after the masonry has completely dried (20 days at 15 degrees and 7 at 25). During the drying period, a temporary canopy is installed over the oven to avoid uneven heating by direct sunlight.

As for the internal seams, to protect them, all openings/openings in the stove structure are plugged with bags filled with dry grass, rags, etc. during winter downtime. So the temperature inside will be at least a degree higher than the outside one, which will prevent condensation. In the spring, before the first start after winter, the stove is quietly heated for an hour or two with paper, shavings, dry grass, until the smoke from the chimney brightens or becomes almost transparent. Now the furnace can be started at full speed.

Mortgages and accessories

Metal embedded parts can only be walled up in furnace brickwork; There should be no mortgages in fireclay. The thickness of the mortar layer between the metal and the stove brick is also 3 mm, so the seam with the embedded part will be 6 mm thick + the thickness of the embedded part. Because seams thicker than 13 mm are unacceptable, the maximum thickness of the embeds in the furnace is 5 mm, and the minimum, according to general building regulations– 4 mm. Wire embeds can be 3 mm thick.

Deformation gaps between brickwork and fittings (doors, dampers, valves, gates) are needed with a width of 6-12 mm. Most often, the gaps are 10 mm. Deformation gaps are filled with fluffed asbestos; As a rule, for this purpose, the fitting element is wrapped around the contour with an asbestos cord before installation. They put the fittings in place as soon as the masonry reaches the level of its bottom; It is unacceptable to push the part into the finished opening! Next, the laying is carried out by circling the fittings until they close at the top of it.

In the manuals for the construction of stoves they write that the fittings in the stove structure need to be secured only with wire, because... cast iron does not cook or cooks very poorly. This is true, which is why cast iron fittings are provided with eyes and/or grooves for 3-4 mm wire. Installation of cast iron elements of stove fittings is done as follows. order:

As soon as the masonry is brought to the bottom of the part, grooves are selected in the bricks with a grinder for the wire whiskers. The width of the grooves is 6 mm. Laying the mustache in the masonry - from 1.5 bricks, better - 2.5-3.5 bricks. The ends of the wire should not fall on the vertical joints of the masonry!
A wire is threaded into the lower eyes of the asbestos-wrapped fittings, the part is put in place and the laying continues;
In the last row of masonry before the part covering the part, grooves are selected for the upper wire whiskers, as in step 1;
Insert the wire into the upper eyes of the part;
Lay out the overlapping row and carry the masonry further.

At the same time, in outdoor stoves that are heated irregularly and not intensively, fittings made from ordinary structural steel are quite durable, incl. homemade. It saves a lot Money, because cast iron fittings road. It is quite legal to attach steel stove fittings by welding to embedded parts made from a steel strip or angle.

Chimney

The chimney of an outdoor stove can be either regular (from 4 m) or reduced to 0.6-1 m in height. A reliable chimney for an outdoor stove with a top outlet must be built together with the structure of the stove, because It is almost impossible to secure a separate solid pipe so that it does not loosen the chimney cut in the stove in the wind. It is easier to attach a separate chimney to the stove with a side exit: the stove outlet is connected to the chimney by a horizontal link - a hog - made of flexible metal corrugation. This solution also has the advantage that acidic condensate from the chimney will never enter the stove: it will settle in the chimney sump, from where it can be easily drained through a hatch, faucet or drainage hole, usually closed with a screw.

Finally: As you can see, the most difficult task when building an outdoor stove is to protect it from precipitation during operation. The best way to solve this problem, which also allows you to do without a stove foundation in many cases and makes it possible to use it in any weather, is to build a stove in a gazebo, on a veranda or under a canopy.

Before you start building a brick barbecue with your own hands, you should make drawings and use them to calculate the amount of building materials needed. In this case, the scheme must be created independently, since there are no universal barbecue designs.

Drawing up an action plan

During construction, you must follow the general instructions that apply to any type of barbecue:

the grill should be made at least 70-80 cm, taking into account the height of the owner;
the stove is traditionally located 10 cm below the grill level;
a niche for firewood and cabinets, and a hook for tongs should be provided.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the small details so that later it will be convenient to use the structure. When the drawings are ready, you should make calculations, draw up an action plan and prepare a list of building materials (including for the foundation).

The list of materials for main work should include:

fireclay and facing bricks;
clay and ordinary mortar;
metal rod d-30 mm;
steel sheet 5 mm;
doors for the firebox and ash pan;
grate.

And for arranging the base:

construction mixture;
reinforcing bars;
boards for formwork construction;
crushed stone and sand.

The construction of the furnace takes place on a slab base, the frame is erected from fireclay bricks. After which it is lined with stone.

Granite, sandstone, dolomite, and rubble stone are suitable. You can show your imagination and give the fireplace any fancy shape.

Very often, barbecues and barbecues for dachas are created from scrap materials: barrels and, a little less often you can see welded structures (from the simplest to artistic casting). It is much less common to make a brick barbecue with your own hands. Many are convinced that they are practically no different from portable structures.

But the heat distribution pattern in brick structures is completely different. The heat from the coals in open grills is directed upward, cooking only one side of the meat. Therefore, during processing, it is necessary to periodically turn the product over to the other side to ensure even frying.

The brick structure of the barbecue acts like an oven, only without the door. Heat, reflected from its inner surface, simultaneously affects the entire surface of the product, ensuring its uniform processing.

This significantly improves the taste of dishes, making them more juicy and tender.

In this regard, the following advantages of a brick barbecue compared to a metal barbecue can be noted:

uniform processing of food;
the ability to build complex structures with an additional cooking surface, smokehouse, grill and sink;
a barbecue can be made one of the most attractive parts of the site.

How to make a garden barbecue

Like any other structure, a barbecue for a summer residence is built on a foundation. The pavilion should fit harmoniously into the design of the site. Since such a pavilion will be used year-round, it is better to build a garden type fireplace.

The construction of the fireplace must comply with basic safety regulations; the chimney must be installed on the roof. The construction of such a structure has a rather complex technology. Externally and functionally, it is a fireplace, which is used to decorate the interior of a dacha.

Thematic material:

A gazebo or pavilion with a fireplace can be styled as a fairy-tale hut for receiving guests or arranged as summer house with kitchen utensils, dining furniture, sofa and TV. If the barbecue is located in a pavilion, it is better to entrust its construction to specialists, but if you have a little experience, you can try to build it yourself.

The basis of the elementary design of a barbecue is a quadrangular frame; coal is placed in it, over which a grate is placed. It is advisable to make a structure such as a fireplace multifunctional: build a firewood rack at the bottom, a dish rack above it, a barbecue itself above it, and a smokehouse can be located above it.

In this case, the structure will be multi-story. You should decide what the design of the future fireplace for the dacha should be, and then make drawings and outline a construction plan.

Barbecue options

When considering brick barbecue projects, sometimes there is a desire to supplement the drawings with your own elements in accordance with personal preferences. Some future owners, when building a brick barbecue with their own hands, equip it with an additional grill and stove.

Barbecues can be very diverse:

barbecue fireplace;
barbecue grill;
multifunctional building;
barbecue with one hearth;
barbecue with grill and cauldron;

Additional accessories for such furnaces are very diverse. For example, oven, spit, tandoor, cauldron and others. Among complex structures There are hand-made and prefabricated ones.

An interesting idea - a complex. Permanent structures can be built as a three-story structure. Semi-finished products are placed in the chamber on grates or suspended. For cold smoking, a brazier with coals and a baking sheet with wood chips are placed inside the chamber, and for hot smoking, logs of the appropriate types of wood are placed in the firebox.

This smokehouse has only one drawback: it strongly absorbs odors. Therefore, if you process meat after fish, it will acquire a specific smell, and sometimes even a taste. In this case, it is better to make this device from iron.

Construction of a brick barbecue

The positive aspects of installing a barbecue oven are its decorative appearance and functionality. It is better to install such a structure not in the open air, but in a pavilion or summer kitchen.

Let's consider step by step plan construction of a barbecue for a summer residence.

Step 1: Arrangement of the foundation

Initially, a site for construction is selected. When placing a barbecue in a building, it is necessary to prepare a foundation for it. Together with it, a base for a barbecue oven is made; it is similar to a slab foundation.

The pit is made 0.3 m larger than the dimensions of the structure, and about a meter deep. The formwork is installed and a sand and gravel “cushion” is laid on its bottom. It is covered with the first layer of mortar (0.2 m), and then steel rods are laid like a lattice. From the end of pouring until the solution completely hardens, 1-3 weeks should pass.

Step 2: Preparation

Before starting construction, you should select building materials for construction. It should be remembered that for the construction of a furnace, two types of bricks are needed: the main refractory one and for cladding. At the same time, only fireclay bricks that are resistant to high temperatures are laid in the firebox area, which also has excellent heat-saving qualities and long-term heat transfer. And a standard refractory brand of brick is acceptable as an exterior finish.

Step 3: Construction

In the construction of the structure, an ordering scheme is used (see below). It takes into account the usual brick dimensions - 230*114*65. For the firebox and stove, bricks should be laid only with clay mortar, and in places not in direct contact with fire, ordinary bricks are allowed to be used.

Pre-mixed fireclay mortar requires red clay, cement, sand and water.

Step 4: Firing

After the stove is erected, firewood or coal is placed in the firebox and barbecue and then set on fire. This is necessary for firing the inner surface of the furnace walls. The heat is brought to the maximum possible.

This is one of the most functional stoves for a summer residence. For small areas, a simplified scheme is suitable. When choosing the type of garden barbecue, you need to take into account all its parameters: functionality, size, location on summer cottage. For the convenience and durability of the structure, it would be advisable to build a gazebo or pavilion.

Step 5: Drying

After heating the oven, the next step is drying. It should be carried out in the summer in clear weather - at least 5 days, and in the fall in cloudy weather - up to 20 days. In this case, it should be covered from possible rain protective film.

The final stage will be decorating the stove. The bricks should be freed from excess mortar and paint should be applied in the right places to highlight the seams. After which the barbecue oven is completely ready for its intended use.

This cooking device combines the advantages of a barbecue and a Russian stove within one design.

The main feature of the device is that there is no need to ligate the seams, which greatly simplifies the process of its construction and allows everyone home handyman build the oven with your own hands.

After the device has been erected, before starting operation it must be dried most thoroughly, and the first few kindlings should be carried out in accelerating mode.

While creating arched vault for a country stove, you need to take into account that there should be only one brick in its center. The strength of the structure depends on the implementation of this design. When forming an arched vault, a special device made of wood is used, which is called a circle. The existing difference in distances between the lower and upper parts of adjacent bricks of the arched vault is compensated for by cement-sand mortar, which is used during the creation of the structure.

How to make a barbecue oven yourself

Surely many summer residents would like to have a cozy gazebo on their property, equipped with a beautiful stove, which has many additional devices for cooking, such as an oven and smoking cabinet, as well as a barbecue with a stove for frying shish kebab.
As you know, the implementation of any idea begins with the creation of a project.
The simplest diagram is a sketch of the future device, which shows the correct arrangement of all the cooking devices of the stove. When working on such a project, it is important to consider the following features:

The height of the combustion chamber must be no less than the distance between the lower and upper parts of the four rows of masonry.
The height of the fireplace is at least six levels.
The height of the grill is at least three rows.
The height of the casing, in which the chimneys of all cooking devices will be combined, must be at least three levels of masonry.

In addition, one important circumstance should be taken into account, which significantly simplifies the design. Since a homemade stove will be used outdoors, during its construction there is no need to create a complex network of chimney channels, which, when passing through them, flue gases provide additional heat transfer.

For a stove operating outdoors, it is enough to simply discharge all combustion products into one pipe, straightening the chimney channels, which are part of the overall structure, as much as possible.

Where to place the oven

As a rule, the installation of a barbecue is carried out in the courtyard of a summer cottage. When choosing a place to install the stove, it is necessary to take into account the likelihood of smoke entering the adjacent area. It is unlikely that your neighbors will be delighted that while preparing barbecue you are depriving them of the opportunity to breathe fresh air. The problem can be solved by inviting your neighbors to try a freshly prepared dish, but it will be better if you still save them from the inconvenience.

To identify the direction in which flue gases will emanate from a working stove, it is necessary to light a fire at the site of its future installation and observe the direction of the smoke. It would be a good idea to ask your neighbors about the presence or absence of combustion products on their property emanating from a fire burning in your yard.

A stove-grill with a stove can be installed in the garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose an area free of trees. If the planting density is high, the location of the future furnace must be cleared of them. According to fire safety requirements, there should be no green spaces near fire sources.

Preparing materials

Despite the fact that the barbecue oven with stove will be located under the roof, this will not protect it from the atmospheric influences existing in the region. Therefore, when laying the furnace body, it is necessary to use brick of grade M-250 and higher. This is due to the likelihood of operating the device in winter time at temperatures below 25 °C. As a result, the walls of the structure will be subject to significant changes temperature regime over a relatively short period of time.

To lay the furnace body and chimney, about 1,500 units of brick will be required. For making furnace cavities and other structural elements, where direct contact of the flame with the walls is possible, it is necessary to use. The difference between fireclay material and its conventional counterpart is that it can withstand temperatures up to 1000 °C, while traditional brands of brick can be destroyed at 450 °C.

The temperature of fuel combustion can be determined indirectly: by the color shade of the heated surface. Based on these observations, it will be possible to select the brick necessary to build the firebox. If you place a steel bar at the top of the flame and observe the change in its color, after a certain time you can draw the following conclusions:

the bar will turn dark red at 350°C;
the color of the metal will change to red when heated to 400 °C;
steel will take on a bright scarlet hue when exposed to temperature, the value of which reaches 450-500 ° C;
areas with a white tint appear on the surface of the bar at temperatures of 550 °C and above;
the snow-white color of the metal indicates that the flame temperature is more than 700 °C.

It is not difficult to conclude that a stove made of ordinary brick is unlikely to last for several seasons, and even less if used outdoors.

During the construction of the stove structure, it is necessary to use the following two types of mortar:

ordinary sand-cement, intended for laying walls;
a composition with fire-resistant components used in the construction of fireplaces, fireboxes and barbecues.

Lay out the device body

A gazebo with a barbecue oven installed within it should be located on a monolithic concrete slab. During the creation of this product, the building material should be reinforced with a metal rod. Completing such a foundation eliminates the need to lay a separate foundation for the furnace. After creating a slab on its surface, in order to ensure waterproofing conditions for the body of the device, you need to spread a sheet of roofing material folded in half, and then start laying.

Most often in country gazebos a barbecue oven with a stove 2500 mm long and 800 mm wide is installed. When laying bricks of the first row, the presence of deviations from the horizontal plane is determined. During the execution of the second level, the identified defects are eliminated. When creating the third row, ash pans, combustion chambers, hobs and other equipment intended for cooking.

In order for the furnace laying process to take place without unnecessary interruptions, electricity should be supplied to the work site, which may be needed to use the necessary power tools, as well as provide the construction site with the required amount of water and materials.

The barbecue fittings are secured to the base using a fastening stove tape, which is placed in the body of the masonry. Final fixation is carried out with self-tapping screws.

It is better to make the sides of the barbecue oven not rectangular, but rounded. This increases the level of aesthetic perception of the created structure. When laying the ash pit, it is necessary to use bricks whose edges are cut at an angle of 45 degrees. This allows the ash to fall into the ash pan cavity without obstacles during further operation of the furnace. To cut bricks you need to use a grinder with a ceramic wheel. It is unacceptable to use a pickaxe for these purposes.

Simultaneously with the laying of the ash pit, niches are being constructed for storing firewood and auxiliary tools necessary for servicing the barbecue oven with a stove. In order to give the structure a decorative appearance, some bricks can be pushed outward to a distance of about ¼ of their length.

The barbecue stove grate should be laid on two metal corners placed in special grooves formed in the front part by the masonry seam. The rear element is placed in the slots created for this purpose.

The height of the installed basalt cardboard must correspond to the height of the combustion chamber. When laying thermal insulation, it is important not to crumple the sheet. Otherwise, the material will not be able to perform its intended functions.

In the immediate vicinity of the firebox of the cauldron, it is necessary to install a special container for preparing coals, which will later be used as fuel for the barbecue with a stove. The container is a metal box required sizes. Logs are placed in it and set on fire. Air access is limited by the opening angle of the firebox door. This simple method is used to prepare coals for lighting a barbecue and a cauldron.

During the installation of stove fittings, one should not neglect the need to check the vertical position of the built-in elements. For this purpose, a special building level is used for furnace work.

The measuring device has magnetic properties, which allows you to attach it to an iron surface and free the master’s hands to carry out necessary work.

A cauldron used for preparing oriental dishes must be installed in a specially prepared sheet of metal with a thickness of at least 10 mm. You need to place a cauldron on the surface of the selected product, trace its outline, and then cut a hole in the metal for the container. You need to place a cauldron in the resulting opening, then install the resulting structure into the body of a multifunctional stove. The boiler must be installed only on the surface of the set masonry.

Firebox masonry for the hob

When constructing a device for burning fuel, it is important to correctly lay refractory bricks in the interior of the firebox. To prevent the volume of the combustion chamber from decreasing, it is recommended to lay the fireclay material on the edge. This will allow you to rationally use the available space and also speed up the cooking process.

The firebox and blower doors must be installed on the stove mounting strip, using M8 bolts for fixation. Next, a ceiling should be installed above the firewood using paired 50 mm steel angles. One product is attached to another by welding. The total length of the rows of flooring must be adjusted so that none of the bricks protrude beyond the plane of the structure. If necessary, the bars can be cut to the required length with a grinder.

Upon completion of the ceiling, you need to begin laying the corner base for the cauldron slab and forming the hearth of the barbecue. This part is made of refractory bricks. The material for the slab is placed in grooves specially designed for this purpose. First, you need to lay the bars dry, then mark the location of the narrow gap, remove the bricks, use a grinder to make grooves in the marked areas, and then assemble the structure using mortar.

If it is necessary to shrink the slab into the intended place, use a rubber hammer. Please note that the structure for the cauldron must be laid in the grooves intended for it until the solution has time to set.

The stove for the cooking compartment is installed using the same technology as for the cauldron.

As you can see, the process of making a multifunctional stove for a summer cottage is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When constructing a furnace yourself, do not forget that direct contact of fireclay bricks and ceramic material is unacceptable. Between them there must be a gasket made of basalt cardboard.

If you do not neglect this advice, the long life of the stove created at your dacha is guaranteed.

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