How to make a teapot out of cardboard. New Year's surprise

In this article you will learn about an interesting and somehow forgotten accessory for teapots: a whistle, what it is for, how to use it and how you can make it at home. A whistle is needed to know when the water has boiled. Every person should appreciate the functions of the whistle, which allows all people who use electric kettles to know when the water boils. But it happens that a new kettle does not have a whistle, or it is broken.

DIY kettle whistle

There are many ways to make a whistle for dummies at home. All you need is a little free time, materials and, of course, desire. Let's look at the most interesting ways.

Metal whistle

It will be shaped like a short cylinder. Top part can accept different design. First of all, you should take metal without signs of corrosion. After this, you can proceed to the following actions:

1. Cut two circles and a rectangle for the cylinder;
2. Connect these parts into a whole.

Cork

You can also make an excellent whistle for a teapot with your own hands, using just ordinary stoppers that you use to close lemonade or water bottles every day. To do this you will need to follow a few simple steps:

1. Take two corks and connect them into one;
2. Cut a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

Be careful when using this method, you need to make a large cylinder of metal that sits between the plugs.

From a toy whistle

The version of a children's whistle is suitable for teapots with thin spouts. It is located on it, covering the entire surface. And if the kettle has a wide nose, then a metal glass is better suited for it, in which you will need to drill a hole using a regular drill.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the metal. A whistle made of high-quality metal will serve you for a very long time and with great efficiency.

Do not use aluminum or plastic material for the whistle under any circumstances! These materials are not resistant to high temperatures.

How to fix a whistle if it's broken

If you bought a low-quality device, you can repair it by following these steps:

• You need to take the casing that contains the whistle and use a screwdriver to remove it.
• The next step is to remove the spring and prepare the surface for further work. To prepare the surface, you need to clean it.
• When you get to soldering you will need soldering acid. After the surface has been prepared, you can begin soldering, and then clean the parts from any dirt stuck to them.
• The last step in this process is neutralization. You need to use lye. In addition to alkali, you can use alcohol, but remember that this procedure must be carried out outdoors. This must be done carefully so as not to harm your health. To neutralize the craft, place it in a glass and pour approximately 10 or 25% alcohol into it.

By following these rules, you can easily repair your whistle or make a new one!

I present to you a master class on how to make a teapot from threads and decorate it with candy flowers. Such a handmade souvenir will become an original gift for any occasion, it can be filled with bags of delicious tea or your favorite sweets. See my making tutorial here. I have also prepared many other simple master classes for children - candy-paper bouquets and corrugated paper crafts.

Making a ball of thread in the shape of a teapot

Inflate the balloon.

For the handle and spout we take waterproof cardboard, I cut it out of a juice box.

Let's prepare glue solution: dissolve 3 teaspoons of sugar in 50 ml of water, add 10-20 ml of PVA glue. We begin to wrap our ball with threads.

If you want the kettle to be pure white, take cotton threads, because synthetic threads turn yellow from such a solution.

Dries in about 24 hours, sometimes longer. At first it will drip a little, so it is better to place the workpieces above the sink.

One more nuance - you should not tie the ball with threads, because after all the manipulations with it, it may simply deflate even before the glue sets.

My secret is to twist the tail of the ball onto a wire. Firstly, the balloon will never deflate, secondly, you can make a hook out of it and hang it to dry, thirdly, when the balloon is completely dry, you can simply unscrew the wire, release the air and carefully pull it out without bursting it.

The finished ball already looks beautiful.

We cut out the lid of the future teapot from it.

Glue the top edge.

Prepare the spout and handle. I ran a thin wire along the edge (to hold its shape) and attached the lace using hot glue.

I also secured the handle and spout with wires.

We decorate the lid with lace.

Add a little gold and a drop.

Our teapot is ready, all that remains is to decorate it with paper flowers. You can find the rest here.

If your home has old dishes and three-layer napkins, then you can, with the help of our tips, improve an old kettle. In this article you will find several ways to make a teapot yourself, a list of materials needed for this, as well as sequential instructions for each method.

How to make a teapot from cardboard with a base

To make such a teapot you will need: an old ceramic teapot, acrylic paint, three-layer napkins, glue brush, glue and varnish.

• We make a model of a teapot from cardboard. You can use the papier-mâché technique, in which one layer of torn paper is glued onto another, and the base (we’ll take a ceramic teapot as a base) is coated with Vaseline. We wait for it to dry and carefully glue all the parts together. The joints need to be sanded.
• We prime the teapot using acrylic paint. We wait for the first layer to dry and begin applying the second.
• Now we stop working with the kettle and wait for the paint to dry completely. In the meantime, we cut out the design elements from three-layer napkins. We remove two layers, leaving only the top one with the pattern.
• After the kettle has dried, generously coat its surface with PVA glue. Carefully combine the napkin and the wall of the teapot. We iron the picture with a brush with glue, smoothing out the folds and pushing the air down. Moving down the pattern, apply an additional layer of glue to the surface of the napkin. We wait a day and start decorating the teapot. For this, acrylic paints we apply patterns, curls and edging.
• Finally, apply two layers of decorative varnish.

How to make a teapot from clay

In order to make a teapot from clay, you will need: clay, oven, paints.

• We make an original teapot from household clay. Place it in the oven and wait until the clay has completely hardened. Remove from the oven and leave until completely cool.
• Now you can start decorating the teapot. Apply a single color layer of paint. Let it dry, apply a new one, and so on until all the gaps are covered. After this, you can start applying the pattern.
• Let the teapot with the pattern dry again, after which we apply two layers of varnish.

How to sew a teapot

In order to sew a teapot yourself, you will need: threads, scraps of fabric, foam rubber. In order to make such a teapot, you need to cut it out of scraps and then sew it into the chosen shape. For this type of teapot it is better to make a lining made of foam rubber. This product can be used around the house to put on a teapot - this will keep the heat longer. When choosing scraps, try to use as much imagination as possible to make the teapot fun and original. By the way, such a kettle can become a great gift for tea lovers.

How to make a teapot in the form of a panel

To make a panel teapot you will need: pebbles, pieces of glass, glue, cardboard, frame. We put glass and stones in a picture in the form of a cheerful teapot. We glue them onto thick cardboard and insert them into a glass frame. Now you know that a teapot can be made perfectly different ways and for completely different purposes!

Household appliances for cooking are widely used by mankind, and the leader of them, perhaps, is the electric kettle. But the service life of any electrical appliance is not eternal and there comes a time when you turn on Electric kettle, but the water does not heat up.

An electric kettle is one of the simplest household electrical appliances, and in many cases it is quite easy to repair it with your own hands, even without the skills of an electrical engineer.

Operating principle and electrical circuit of the electric kettle

To repair an electric kettle, you need to know the principle of its operation. This is easy to do by electrical diagram. Although there are many models of kettles, they are all assembled according to the same electrical circuit, regardless of appearance and capacity. There are some differences in the schemes, for example, the presence of a timer, but the basis of the scheme is still the same.

The electric kettle is working in the following way. Through the electrical plug, the mains voltage is supplied using a flexible cord to the XP1 contacts of the stand, on which the electric kettle is installed when heating water. At the base of the kettle there are mating contacts, which, when installed on the stand, are connected to the contacts on the stand.

Next, the current passes through thermal switch S1, which is turned on using the key on the kettle and turns off automatically when the water boils. The thermal protection switch S2 is not directly involved in the operation, it is always on and only triggers if the body overheats, if the kettle is turned on without water. From the switches, voltage is supplied to the terminals of the tubular electric heater, abbreviated as TEN. The HL lamp serves to indicate the on state.

Arrangement of electric kettle components

If the voltage of the electrical appliance differs from 220 V, for example, a 12 V car electric kettle, then you can calculate the current consumption using an online calculator.

Attention! When repairing an electric kettle and any other household electrical appliances connected to the household network, extreme caution should be used. Touching an unprotected part of a person’s body to live wires and live parts can cause serious damage to health, including cardiac arrest. Don't forget to unplug the electric kettle from the socket!

How to disassemble an electric kettle

To accurately determine the cause and eliminate the malfunction, it is necessary to remove the cover from the bottom of the electric kettle. You may encounter some difficulties when removing the cover.

Usually the bottom cover is screwed to the base of the electric kettle using self-tapping screws with slots under Phillips screwdriver. Sometimes the heads of the screws are recessed into the lid and covered with decorative plugs, which must be removed using a sharp object to be able to unscrew the screws.

Some manufacturers to complicate the possibility self-repair of an electric kettle, all or one of the screws is installed with a slot under the shaft of a two-pronged fork type screwdriver, which is called Spanne, as in this photograph. A screwdriver with a Spanne blade is rarely available to DIYers. If you do not have such a screwdriver, you can unscrew the screw using side cutters or tweezers.

If you can’t unscrew the screw this way, then you need to do it yourself special screwdriver from a flat blade screwdriver, making a hole in the middle for the slot profile using a needle file.

During repairs, it sometimes happens that it is impossible to unscrew a plastic screw. In this case, you can try to move the screw from its place in the direction of tightening. If it moves, it will unscrew easily.

If you can’t unscrew the screw this way, you need to heat it with a soldering iron, applying the tip to the head. When heated, the plastic around the thread of the screw will soften, and it will easily unscrew. The same technology is used to disassemble the electric kettle stand.

In some models of electric kettles, after unscrewing the screws, the lid can be easily removed. But more often it is additionally secured around the entire perimeter with latches. There are models in which the lid is held in place only by latches.

At the top of the photo there is a lid with a latch, and at the bottom the base of the electric kettle with square hole, into which the latch fits when the cover is installed. WITH right side of the base, one of the kettle handle latches is caught in the frame.

To release the latches, you have to carefully insert the flat blade of a screwdriver into different places the junction of the cover and the body in search of the location of the latch.

When it is possible to remove one of the latches from the hole, the screwdriver is left in this place and the second screwdriver is used to look for the next latch located nearby. When a couple of latches are released, the rest are no longer clamped, and the cover can be easily removed. Often, removing the cover from the base is more difficult than troubleshooting.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the power indicator light is on

This behavior is the easiest way to determine the malfunction. As can be seen from the electrical diagram, the indicator light or backlight is connected directly to the terminals placed on the terminals of the heating element. Therefore, if the light is on and the kettle does not heat the water, then the cause of the malfunction lies in poor contact of the terminals with the terminals heating element or a break in the spiral inside it.

Restoring contact in slip-on terminals

After removing the lid from the base of the kettle and inspecting the connecting contacts, the cause of the breakdown became obvious. One of the contacts of the heating element was burnt, and the terminal was practically hanging in the air.

On the second terminal of the heating element, the terminal was also in poor condition, the whole thing turned black along with the contact. It’s amazing how an electric kettle could heat water before.

The terminal was completely burned out, and its further use was impossible. Although the contact on the heating element output was partially burnt, it did not require spring properties, and the remaining part after cleaning will ensure good contact.

There was no new terminal available and I had to use a used terminal. If there is nowhere to get a new terminal, then you can use the terminal from the stand, which is used to connect the ground wire (yellow-green wire). In the vast majority of apartments, the electrical wiring does not have a grounding conductor, and removing this terminal will not affect the operation of the kettle.

Before using the old terminal, it must be freed from the wires pressed into it. To do this, you need to clamp the terminal as in the photo with small pliers and a faceted awl, pressing and rotating it, push the antennae apart. The remaining wires will fall out and the terminal will be ready for reuse.

In the photo on the left you can see two wires that were pressed into the terminal. By thick stranded wire The supply voltage is supplied, and through a thin single-core it is supplied to a neon light bulb or water lighting system. These wires need to be inserted into the terminal shank and crimped with pliers, after which the terminal will be ready for connection to the heating element.

The next step is to make it shiny using a fine sandpaper clean the contact on the heating element terminal on both sides. After this, all that remains is to put the terminal on this contact, and reliable electrical contact will be ensured.

After removing the terminal from the second contact, it turned out that both the terminal itself and the contact on the heating element were in good condition, only covered with oxide. After removing the black deposit from the contact using sandpaper, it became as good as new. Before putting the terminal on, it was slightly squeezed with pliers to make better contact. To remove oxides from the internal contacting surfaces of the terminal, it must be put on and removed several times onto the flat contact of the heating element.

At this point the repair can be considered complete. All that remains is, without replacing the bottom cover, pour water into the kettle to the minimum level and check its functionality. If the kettle does not heat the water, then most likely the heating element coil is broken, but there may be other reasons. In order to continue troubleshooting, you must first check the serviceability of the heating element. It is impossible to replace the heating element in an electric kettle, since it is welded to its base. This kettle cannot be repaired.

Restoring welded contacts

A backlit glass electric kettle, model Polaris PWK 1719CGL, was repaired; when turned on, the indicator light was on, but the water did not heat up. This malfunction indicated a broken contact at the connection point of the heating element leads.

The bottom cover was easily removed after unscrewing three screws. I liked the build quality. The assumption was confirmed; in this model, the connection to the electrical circuit was made in an unconventional way using plug-in terminals, and spot welding flat brass wire directly with the heating element terminal, one of which has come off. Obviously, due to a technology violation, the conductor was poorly welded.

Small mechanical impact hand on the second flat wire also caused it to fall off. Flat conductors were connected to the kettle's electrical circuit using slip-on terminals. They were removed and the wires were brought under the heating element terminals from below, as shown in the photo.

To ensure reliable contact of flat conductors with the terminals, they were pressed using metal strips with screws. The strips were taken from a Soviet power plug (they were pressed against network wire) and sockets. When installing the slats, you need to make sure that they do not touch the metal body of the kettle.

Checking the electric kettle showed excellent performance. The boiling water was beautifully illuminated with blue light thanks to LED backlight. I liked the design of the kettle, as well as the build quality. It’s a pity that the welding of the wires with the heating element leads turned out to be of poor quality. After the described repair, the electric kettle has been serving without fail for several years.

The electric kettle does not heat water, the power indicator does not light up

Like any other electrical appliance, an electric kettle is connected to the electrical network using electrical plug type C6 and the first thing you need to do if the kettle does not heat the water is to make sure by external inspection that the plug is in working order and in socket there is tension. You can check the outlet by connecting any electrical appliance to it, for example, a table lamp.

Repair of the contact group of an electric kettle with a stand

Since voltage is supplied to the electric kettle through the stand by touching its contacts with the contacts of the current collector, it is necessary to check the contact pairs by external inspection for burning. A sign of contact failure in a contact pair appears at an early stage, and is manifested in the need to rotate the kettle on the stand so that it begins to heat the water. To prevent more serious consequences, you must immediately clean the contacts from carbon deposits.

To check, you need to turn the kettle over and inspect the condition of the slip rings. In the photo of this kettle, the inner ring on the left side is oxidized and burned out by several millimeters. To restore the contacted surface, it is enough to clean it until it shines with sandpaper. The ring contact has become poor due to insufficient pressure and oxidation of the contact located in the stand.

The flat contact plates in the contact assembly of the stand are secured with screws or hooks. To remove a plate secured with hooks, you must first remove the plastic insert with a screwdriver, and then, using an awl to pick up the hook, remove the plate.

After removing the cover from the stand and removing the contact plate from which current was supplied to the burnt ring, it became obvious that the end of the plate had bent and the contact pad was severely burned. Although the contact plate itself darkened a little due to heating, it did not lose its springy properties. After restoring the shape of the plate and sanding the surface of the contact pad, the plate was installed in its original place.

After installing the contact plate, before screwing the bottom onto the stand, you need to attach it to the bottom of the kettle and make sure that the contact plate moves a couple of millimeters, the contact fits in the center and does not cling to the walls of the stand. If everything is so, then you can screw the bottom to the stand and test the kettle after repair by boiling water in it.

But you're not always so lucky. There are contacts that are burnt to such an extent that stripping and straightening the plate no longer helps and you have to replace part of the plate with a new one. The photo on the left shows a contact that has burned almost to the ground. To replace, you need to cut off the plate with the contact to the first bend, clean the surface of the remaining plate until shiny with sandpaper and tin it with solder.

If you have an old electric kettle and the contacts in the stand are in good condition, then you can use them for repairs. A new replacement plate can also be taken from any powerful relay, for example RPU. There are even relays with silver contacts.

A plate of the required length is cut off from the relay, bent and tinned with solder. Next, the prepared contact plate is pressed against the pre-tinned stand plate, and the assembly warmed up with a soldering iron. As a result, the contact element of the stand becomes no worse than new.

After installing the contacts in the stand, it is necessary, as after the previous repair, to check the accuracy of their positioning and freedom of movement. The photo shows a stand in which both contacts were replaced by soldering.

Repairing the electric kettle switch button

Another malfunction of electric kettles that I have encountered is the failure of the power control button into the handle.

The switch may not work due to a failure of the switching mechanism or a broken key, which is what happened with the kettle that I received for repair.

An autopsy showed that one of the axes with which the key is fixed in the handle body broke off. As you can see in the photo, the left axis is missing. It immediately seems that it is impossible to repair the key, but if you think about it, you can often find a way to restore the broken plastic part.

For repairs from copper wire with a diameter of 2 mm, the curly bracket shown in the photograph was curved. The bracket can be made from aluminum wire or even a nail. The diameter is selected based on the diameter seat axis in the kettle handle.

After the plastic hardened, the key was installed in the handle. The test showed that the button began to work no worse than before the breakdown. The electric kettle has been working flawlessly for over a year during daily use.

Electric kettle switch repair

The switch in an electric kettle is placed on the handle or at the base. The switch may not work due to burnt contacts, oxidation of the bimetallic disk (when water boils, water vapor enters it and over time the disk may rust), weakening of the flat spring, or wear of plastic parts.

The photo shows the electric kettle switch taken out of the handle. He has small sizes and works exactly on the same principle as any wall switch. The only difference is that it can automatically turn off when the water boils.

By the way, the switch is a complete independent product and can be used for emergency shutdown any electrical appliance when the temperature in the controlled area reaches more than 100°C.

Two stable switch positions are provided by a flat, arc-curved spring. In the photo on the left, the kettle switch is in the upper off position. On the right picture in the lower position when the electric kettle is turned on in water heating mode. The switch motor is connected to the contacts and thus, when transitioning from one stable state to another, closes or opens the contacts, thus turning the kettle on or off.

If the switch key does not lock, then the flat spring is to blame. It may lose elasticity or pop out. To restore the operation of the switch, it is enough to remove the flat spring and slightly increase the radius of its arc (straighten it).

A bimetallic disk is installed at the bottom of the switch. When heated by steam, the disk tongue moves upward, presses on the engine through the pusher and it moves to the upper stable position, opens the contacts, thereby turning off the power supply to the heating element.

Another malfunction that occurs in electric kettles is burnout of contacts in the switch. Contacts can be placed directly next to the power key or at a distance from it. In this case, the key is connected to the contacts using plastic rods.

In the photo on the left are the thermal protection contacts; they practically do not work and are always in perfect condition. On the right are the switch contacts, which open frequently and therefore always burn out. To clean them, you need to apply a strip of sandpaper to a narrow tool, for example, to the flat blade of a screwdriver, and remove the carbon deposits using a reciprocating motion. You can also use a needle file.

The handles of some models of electric kettles are equipped with closed-type switches and must be disassembled to clean the contacts.

To disassemble, you need to unscrew one screw and remove the switch from the handle. Next, press in the two small clips that are located on the sides of the switch and pull the part with the contacts out of the housing by the wires. The contacts will become accessible, and all that remains is to clean them in the manner described above. When disassembling, you should not lose the small pusher that connects the bimetallic plate to the moving part. Without it, the kettle will not turn off.

How to fix a water leak from an electric kettle

When repairing electric kettles, I had to deal with their leakage in the following places:

• at the junction of the measuring window with the body (repair is impractical, since sealing the crack with any adhesive composition gives a short effect);
• from a crack in a plastic case (cannot be repaired at home);
• at the junction of the metal disk bottom with the kettle flask.

Therefore, when purchasing a new electric kettle, to replace one that had failed due to a cracked body, I purchased a kettle with a glass bulb. I hoped that the electric kettle would never develop an irreparable leak, since the glass body, if handled carefully, is practically eternal, and a leak that occurs at the junction of the glass and the metal base can be successfully eliminated.

After several years of operation of the glass electric kettle, water began to appear on its contact pad after boiling water and dripped from the bottom. After each boiling, the puddle of water on the platform grew larger, and drops dripped from the bottom of the kettle more often. I had to start repairing it.

To determine the location of the water leak, I had to unscrew two self-tapping screws in the upper part of the handle and three self-tapping screws holding bottom part, disassemble the electric kettle.

After disconnecting the bottom, to continue the repair, all that remains is to remove the plug terminals from the contacts of the heating element and the overheating protection system. To avoid problems during assembly, before removing the terminals, you should remember or sketch which of the terminals was put on which of the contacts.

The glass flask was secured to the bottom using silicone sealant. Upon careful examination of the joint, it was discovered that at the factory, as a result of a violation of the gluing technology, air bubbles had formed in several places in the silicone seam. Over time, water began to flow through one of them.

At first I wanted to seal only the water leaks with silicone, but I wasn’t sure that the leak wouldn’t appear in a new place. Therefore, it was decided to detach the glass flask from the bottom and glue them together again.

Using a knife blade, the silicone was cut to the maximum possible depth, both along the internal seam and with outside. After this, the glass flask was separated from the bottom with little effort.

Next, the remaining old silicone was completely removed from the mating surfaces using a knife, and then the bonded surfaces were degreased with a solvent (acetone or alcohol will do). If you don’t have a solvent on hand, you can wash the surfaces hot water With baking soda or laundry soap, and be sure to dry before gluing. In addition, the surface of the metal bottom was cleaned to a shine using sandpaper.

The bottom of the kettle is made of of stainless steel, which was checked using a neodymium magnet - it was not attracted to the bottom. But to my surprise, in the place where there was a leak, a hole appeared, shown in the photo. How a hole could form in stainless steel remains a mystery to me; perhaps it is a manufacturing defect.

A hole formed in the lower part of the interface between the glass bulb and the bottom and would be closed with sealant when gluing. But I decided everything with the help electric soldering iron close the hole soft solder.

Selecting a sealant for gluing

The surfaces of the electric kettle parts are prepared for gluing and the time has come to select a sealant that should be harmless to the human body, withstand temperatures up to +180°C and be elastic. Silicone sealants fully comply with the requirements.

The best of them is food-grade silicone adhesive-sealant RTV 118 Q from an American manufacturer, which can withstand temperatures up to +260°C. But the price of an 82 ml tube of this sealant is comparable to the cost of a new electric kettle.

Available on the market silicone sealant Russian manufacturer VGO-1, which is also designed for sealing joints of hot and cold water supply pipes, withstanding temperatures up to +260°C. It is packaged in 300 ml tubes, but is also expensive and costs half the price of a kettle. To seal an electric kettle you need no more than 20 ml of silicone, so it is economically feasible to purchase a VGO-1 tube if you plan to use it for other work.

When choosing a silicone sealant, a reasonable question arose. Do manufacturers of electric kettles, and all of them are made regardless of the brand in China, use expensive food grade silicone? The answer is obvious; they use the cheapest sealant for sealing. Therefore, I came to the conclusion that the simplest silicone sealant, which does not contain any additives, is quite suitable. After boiling the water several times, even if the sealant contains contraindicated substances, they will all dissolve in the water and the silicone will become safe for the human body.

I had a universal construction silicone sealant on hand, Soudal, which I decided to use. It contains no additives and the sealant can withstand temperatures up to +180°C, which is quite sufficient for the heat resistance of the joint.

Gluing parts of an electric kettle

All that remains is to take the most important step - fill the bottom groove around the entire circumference with silicone sealant and insert a glass flask into it. Before applying sealant, surfaces must be degreased with alcohol or solvent.

The bottom area mating with the glass bulb was large, so after applying a strip of sealant I had to smear it with a screwdriver blade.

The glass flask was inserted into the groove in the bottom. The excess silicone squeezed out by the flask was removed using a rag soaked in a soap solution. Then stitches to give beautiful view, aligned with a finger dipped in soapy water. The picture shows the result of the work.

Checking the tightness of the connection of the kettle parts

Silicone in bulk usually hardens at room temperature at a rate of 2 mm per day. Taking into account the fact that the depth of the seam in the glued electric kettle was about 10 mm, we had to put it aside for a week, and only then carry out tests.

For testing, the electric kettle was connected to the power supply in disassembled form, directly, without a protection and control system. To do this, terminals were put on the ends of the cord with a plug, which were then put directly on the contacts of the heating element. The kettle was placed in the working position, water was poured into it and then the plug was inserted into the socket. It is unacceptable to leave the electric kettle unattended with this switching circuit.

According to the scheme, all Soviet electric kettles were previously connected directly and you had to wait until the water boiled and turn them off manually by removing the plug from the socket.

A few minutes later the water began to boil. There were no traces of water leaks; the silicone sealant reliably sealed the junction of the parts. To prevent accidental harmful impurities from getting into the water from the silicone seam, after assembling the kettle, three portions of water were boiled in it and completely replaced.

Attention! It is unacceptable to pour into any heated electric kettle immediately after the boiling water has been completely drained from it. cold water. Due to thermal shock, microcracks may appear in the body of the kettle, from which water will begin to flow over time.

Let me note that this glass teapot, after the repair described above, has been serving flawlessly for more than three years. I didn't even have to clean the contacts.

How to clean an electric kettle from rust

Over time, due to rusty metal water pipes, despite the transparency of the water flowing from the tap and even its subsequent filtration, a coating of rust forms on the inner surface of the electric kettle. Many people don’t like it, and it clearly doesn’t bring health benefits.

The simplest and safe means rust removal is lemon acid, which is sold in any grocery store.

To remove rust, fill the electric kettle at least half full with water and pour one packet of citric acid into it.

Next, turn on the kettle and bring the water to a boil. Rusty marks can be removed from the top edges and lid using a brush dipped in boiling water. Water turns brown after boiling. If there are several kettles in the house, then water can be poured into each of them and boiled again.

After boiling, let the kettle cool, drain the rusty water and rinse clean water. As you can see in the photo, the electric kettle began to look like new, citric acid completely dissolved the rust.

As you can see, repairing an electric kettle with your own hands is not at all difficult and, if desired, any home craftsman can do it.