How to distinguish apple and pear leaves. Simple tips before buying pear seedlings, mistakes when buying

Pear is a representative of the genus of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. Belongs to the class Dicotyledons, department Floral plants, order Rosaceae, family Rosaceae, genus Pear ( Pyrus).

In the Old Russian chronicles of the 12th century, the pear is mentioned as “hrusha”, presumably because of the characteristic crunch when biting the fruit, and is consonant with some Slavic names: hruska (Czech), krusha (Bulgarian).

Pear wood is hard, dense, with a fine texture and barely noticeable growth rings. Due to the presence of special “stone cells”, dried raw materials are quite easy to process. Treated with black stain, pear wood perfectly imitates expensive ebony wood, and when exposed to hot air it turns red. As pear wood naturally ages, it acquires a distinctive amber color.

The average lifespan of a pear is 150-200 years, although some types of pear trees live up to 300 years.

Where does the pear grow?

In the wild, the pear is widespread in Europe and the countries of Central Asia, found in the form of deciduous thickets, but such wild pears produce small and completely tasteless fruits. As a result of successful breeding activities, the pear tree is also grown as a cultivated plant in household plots. Today, the distribution area of ​​this tree extends from the Urals and regions of Western Siberia to the Crimea, Belarus, Ukraine, the foothills of the Caucasus, Japan, China, the southern and northern regions of the European continent.

Pear is a tree that grows on fertile, loose soils and produces abundant harvests of fragrant fruits. Moreover, the optimal soil for planting pears should be neutral or with minimal acidity. On poor, acidic and excessively wet soils, the pear takes root very difficultly and often refuses to bear fruit.

Planting a pear. How to plant a pear?

An important step is the correct choice of place for planting the pear and careful preparation landing pit. For planting, one- or two-year-old pear seedlings with a developed root system and no visible damage to the above-ground parts are used. Acceptable spring planting pears, although experts recommend planting pears in the fall - in the middle or end of September, when the leaves of the seedlings have fallen and sap flow has stopped.

The best soil for planting pears is clay and loamy, deep. groundwater. Acidic soils are pre-limed. Choose a place for planting pear seedlings that is sunny and protected from the winds.

A planting hole 1 m wide and 80 cm deep is dug in advance. At a distance of 30 cm from the center, a stake is driven in, which is necessary for the proper growth of the tree.

8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium salt are added to the pit and mixed with a small amount of soil.

The pear seedling is placed in the hole and they begin to add soil, periodically shaking the tree itself. At correct landing the root collar will rise 6-8 cm above ground level. Then the soil is firmly trampled and several buckets of water are spilled. The trunk of the pear seedling is tied to a peg and finally the trunk circle is mulched with humus or manure so that the mulch does not touch the tree trunk.

Pear care

Young pear trees need to be watered regularly at the rate of 1 bucket of water per week; during drought, watering is increased.

• Feeding pears

In the first 4 years, the pear is fed with nitrogen fertilizers, several times a season, and once a season with any potassium fertilizer. When loosening the tree trunk circle in spring and autumn, the same complex of fertilizers is applied as was used during planting. Starting from the 5th year, fertilizers are placed in specially dug grooves along the periphery of the crown.

• Pruning and shaping the crown of a pear

The formation of the crown consists of spring and autumn pruning of branches. Remove close and parallel growing pear branches, shorten especially long ones, achieving the same length of the crown tier. The cut areas are covered with crushed coal or garden pitch.

• Pear care in autumn

Autumn care for a pear tree includes a number of necessary activities:

1. 1. sanitary pruning of branches;
   2. preventive treatment against diseases and pests;
   3. fertilizing pears with phosphorus fertilizer;
   4. whitewashing pear trunk with lime;
   5. digging and deep watering tree trunk circles;
   6. covering the tree trunk circle with straw or sawdust in a layer of up to 25-30 cm.

• Pear care in spring

Spring pear care begins with removing the covers and repeats the autumn one, only phosphorus fertilizers are replaced with nitrogen ones.

Depending on the variety, the pear begins to bear fruit at 4-7 years of the tree’s life. Pear blossoms occur in April - May; pear harvest occurs, depending on the region, in August - September.

Pear propagation

Pears are propagated by seed, cuttings, layering and grafting. Seed propagation is more used by breeders to develop new varieties. Among the people the most in a simple way Reproduction is considered to be by layering, and the layering begins to bear fruit much earlier than the seedlings.

Pests, diseases and treatment of pear

Despite the sustainability modern varieties pears to a number of dangerous diseases; bad weather conditions and failure to comply with preventive measures can lead to tree disease:

• scab

on pears it affects young branches, leaves, and ovaries of pears with characteristic dark spots 2-4 cm in diameter. The fruits become smaller and become tough.

• stem rot

occurs from frost or sunburn, poor care or lack of nutrients. The bark of the pear tree turns dark red and the tree dries out.

• powdery mildew

a fungal disease of pear, characterized by a whitish coating covering the branches, leaves and flowers, which leads to the fall of the ovaries.

• pear sucker

feeds on the cellular sap of trees, causing the buds, leaves or buds of the pear to fall off.

• pear codling moth

lays eggs on pear fruits, and the emerging caterpillars devour the pulp.

Timely treatment of pears with insecticidal preparations, colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux mixture, as well as sanitary pruning and burning of affected pear shoots and foliage help prevent the spread of the disease and in most cases save the plant.

Types of pears, names, descriptions and photographs

The modern classification includes 33 species of pear, divided into 2 botanical sections - Pashia and Pyrus. Below are several varieties:

• common pear or wild(Pyrus communis, Pyrus domestica )

large shrub or tree up to 20 meters high. This type of pear gave rise to most of the cultivated varieties grown in the temperate climate zone. In nature, wild pears are distributed from of Eastern Europe to Western Asia. It is considered a good honey plant and a valuable dietary product. Varieties of common pear:

• • Pyrus communis L. subsp. Communis
  • Pyrus communis L. subsp. Caucasica– Caucasian pear
  • Pyrus communis L. subsp. Pyraster– Forest pear

• forest pear(Pyrus communis subsp. pyraster)

subspecies of the common pear. It grows in the form of low shrubs (up to 4 meters) and trees growing up to 20 meters. The forest pear gave birth to hundreds of cultivated varieties, and thanks to its durable wood, it is successfully used in carpentry and turning. This tree grows in the forests and forest-steppes of Central and Eastern Europe.

• boissier pear(Pyrus boissieriana)

drought-resistant, rare type of pear, grows to a limited extent in Azerbaijan and Turkmenistan, where it is listed in the Red Book. It is also found in northern Iran. Used as a rootstock and hybridization.

• pear(Pyrus pyrifolia)

drought-resistant, not demanding on soil, has a trunk height of up to 20 m, varietal plants grow up to 6 m. The pear-leaved pear grows in the countries of Central Asia and Far East Russia. It is widely used in agriculture, has a high decorative purpose, and in China is revered as a sacred tree.

• Ussuri pear(Pyrus ussuriensis)

grows up to 15 meters in height and is characterized by increased frost resistance, due to which it is used in breeding as a source material. The Ussuri pear is widespread in the Far Eastern region of Russia, China and Korea.

• pear(Pyrus elaeagrifolia)

It is characterized by a small height of up to 10 m and high resistance to frost (up to -25 degrees). Small fruits pears are used in cooking, and the trees are used as a rootstock and for gardening. In the wild, the shaggy pear is found in the Crimea and the Caucasus.

• loose pear(Pyrus salicifolia)

This type of pear reaches a height of 8-10 m. The crown of the willow pear is lush, with openwork foliage and early mass flowering. The fruits are small and inedible, so the pear is mainly used as a rootstock for new varieties and as an ornamental plant.

Varieties of pears - names, descriptions and photos. Classification of pears

By ripening time:

• Summer (early) varieties of pears,
• Autumn (medium) varieties of pears,
• Winter (late) varieties of pears.

By fruit size:

• Large (large-fruited) varieties of pears,
• Medium varieties of pears,
• Small (small-fruited) varieties of pears.

By method of use:

• Decorative pear,
• Fruit pear.

According to winter hardiness:

• Winter-hardy (frost-resistant) varieties of pears,
• Not winter-hardy pear varieties.

By height:

• Tall varieties of pears,
• Medium-sized varieties of pears,
• Low-growing varieties of pears,
• Dwarf varieties of pears.

By crown type:

• Varieties of pears with a pyramidal crown,
• Varieties of pears with a round crown,
• Columnar varieties of pears.

Taste:

• Sweet pears,
• Sweet and sour pears
• Pears with a tart-bitter taste.

By pollination method:

• Self-pollinating (self-fertile) varieties of pears;
• Non-self-pollinating pear varieties.

Now let's look at each classification separately with examples of varieties.

Early (summer), middle (autumn), late (winter) varieties of pears, descriptions and photographs

Depending on the timing of ripening, pears are divided into early (summer), middle (autumn) and late (winter) varieties.

Early varietiespears ripen at the end of July - August; in cold regions, harvesting occurs at the beginning of September. Summer pears must be harvested on time. The fruit should not be allowed to overripe or fall off. Depending on the variety, summer pears are stored in a cool place for 7 to 17 days. Despite the limited shelf life, early fruits are distinguished by juiciness, excellent taste and high commercial value.

The following early (summer) varieties of pears are considered the most popular among gardeners:

• "Chizhovskaya";
• "August Dew";
• "Julia";
• "Space";
• "Krasulya";
• "Cathedral"
• "Severyanka";
• "Victoria".

Variety Severyanka

Autumn (medium) varietiespears can be harvested in September - early October, the fruits have a short harvest period, which is shortened in the particularly hot summer season. Autumn varieties of pears are stored in a cool place for 45 to 70 days; during storage, their taste improves significantly. Most autumn varieties have increased resistance to frost.

The best middle (autumn) pear varieties:

• "Autumn Dream";
• "Fun";
• “Yakovlev’s Favorite”;
• "Moskvichka";
• "Beauty Chernenko";
• "Conference";
• "Nerussa";
• "Simply Maria".

Variety Conference

Winter (late) varietiespears They reach harvest maturity in mid-autumn and then ripen during storage, which is why they are grown mainly in regions with a mild climate. At a temperature of + 3-5 degrees, late winter pears, depending on the variety, are stored until January - April of next year.

The most famous winter pear varieties:

• "Pervomayskaya";
• "Noyabrskaya"
• "Nika";
• “Cure” (“Williams winter”);
• "Hera";
• "Belarusian late";
• "Kondratievka"
• "Yakovlevskaya".

Winter variety Williams

Small, medium and large varieties of pears, descriptions and photographs

Depending on the size and weight of the fruit, large-fruited, medium-sized and small-fruited pear varieties are distinguished.

Large varieties of pears - fruits weighing from 200 to 500 g and above. A pear with large fruits is characterized by stable fruiting and motivates owners to set personal records for growing giant fruits without the use of any chemicals.

The best large pear varieties:

• “Bere Dil” (250-500 g);
• "Marianna" (200-350 g);
• “Marshal Zhukov” (320-560 g);
• “Autumn large” (200-250 g);
• "Space" (300-550 g);
• “Vidnaya” (350-540 g);
• “Clapp’s Favorite” (250-450 g);
• “Bere Ardanpon” (200 - 250 g).

Variety Favorite Clapp

Average (medium-sized) pear varieties- fruits weighing from 80 to 200 g. The largest varietal group is characterized by increased fertility, which is why most trees are often overloaded with harvest.

Popular medium pear varieties:

• “Ilyinka” (up to 150 g);
• “Melting” (up to 200 g);
• "Dicolor" (up to 150 g);
• “Talgar beauty” (up to 200 g);
• “Muratovskaya” (up to 150 g);
• “Chizhovskaya” (up to 120 g);
• "Lada" (up to 120 g);
• "Annushka" (up to 140 g).

Variety Chizhovskaya

Small (small-fruited) varieties of pears have a fruit weight of 30-80 grams and are most often intended for processing and preparing compotes, jams, confitures and other desserts.

The best small varieties of pears:

• "Ultra-early";
• "Olga";
• "Myth";
• "Veselinka";
• "The First Swallow";
• "Thumbelina";
• "Moskovskaya";
• "Northerner".

Variety Severyanka

According to the method of use, pears are divided into fruit and ornamental.

Fruit pear (technical, table, universal) – varieties, description and photographs

Fruit varieties of pears are divided into technical, table (dessert) and universal.

Technicalpear varieties mostly intended for recycling. The fruits cannot boast of high commercial qualities, but have excellent taste and aroma, and therefore are actively used in cooking and for preservation.

Technical pear varieties:

• "Oryol Summer";
• "Melitopol Juicy";
• "Granddaughter";
• "Hanging";
• "Allegro".

Allegro variety

Canteens (dessert) pears are consumed mainly in fresh. The variety is distinguished by its excellent presentation, good shelf life and transportability, and, of course, excellent taste.

The most famous varieties of dessert pear:

• "Bronze";
• "Dawn";
• "Banquet";
• "Marble";
• "Perun";
• "Quiet Don"

Variety Marble

Universal varieties of pears used both for processing and for fresh consumption.

The best universal varieties of pears:

• "Zoe";
• "Otradnenskaya";
• “Bere winter Michurina”;
• "Black Sea Amber";
• "Podkumok";
• "Academic".

Variety Otradnenskaya

Decorative pear: varieties, description and photographs

The ornamental pear comes from China and is a rare guest in Russian gardens. Trees of decorative varieties are very attractive, so they are ideal for landscaping private gardens and city parks. The fruits of most varieties of ornamental pear are small and inedible, but this deficiency is easily compensated for by the unusually beautiful foliage that forms graceful crowns, as well as high winter hardiness.

The best varieties of decorative pear:

• "Calliere Chanticleer";
• "Beach Hill"
• "Loach";
• "Liana."

Beech Hill variety

Winter-hardy pear varieties, description and photo

Based on the degree of winter hardiness, a distinction is made between frost-resistant pear varieties, suitable for cultivation in risky farming conditions, and non-winter-hardy varieties, cultivated in areas with a warm climate.

Winter-hardy (frost-resistant) pear varieties bred mainly in the Far East from the Ussuri pear, the most winter-hardy in the world. Most varieties were selected back in the last century; they are reliable, time-tested and do not freeze out at temperatures of -30-35 degrees.

The best winter-hardy pear varieties:

• “Dressy Efimova”;
• "Subject";
• "Lel";
• "Krasnopakharskaya";
• "Tyutchevskaya";
• “Dulya Novgorodskaya”;
• "Thin Vetka";
• "Uralochka".

Variety Uralochka

Not winter-hardypear varieties can be grown in the northern regions at their own risk, but in severe winters most varieties freeze out, although some agricultural practices can increase the frost resistance of trees.

Pear varieties not resistant to frost:

• "Enchantress";
• "Yeseninskaya";
• "January"
• "Kieffer" ("Kieffer's seedling");
• "Bere Russian";
• "Kupava";
• "Morning freshness";
• "Black Sea Amber".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Tall, medium-sized, low-growing, dwarf pear - varieties, description and photo

Based on the height of the trunk, tall, medium-sized, low-growing and dwarf varieties of pears are distinguished.

Tall pear varieties can grow over 6 meters in height, which greatly complicates their care and harvesting. Therefore, tall varieties first of all need correct and timely crown formation.

The best tall varieties of pears:

• "Annushka";
• "Saint-Germain";
• “Malyaevskaya late”;
• "Gimrinskaya";
• "Apple-shaped";
• "Shuranovka No. 3";
• "Orlovskaya beauty";
• "Larinskaya".

Variety Apple-shaped

Medium height pear varieties grow up to 5 - 5.5 meters and constitute the largest group:

• "Original";
• "Dagestan summer";
• "Central Russian";
• "Shihan";
• "Oktyabrskaya";
• "Goryachevodskaya";
• "Petrovskaya";
• "Moscow Bergamot"

Variety Dagestan summer

Low-growing (undersized)pear varieties do not exceed 4.5 m in height:

• "Morning freshness";
• "Williams" ("Duchess Summer", "Bon Chretien Williams", "Bartlett", "Williams Summer");
• "Michurinskaya beauty";
• "Otradnenskaya";
• "Admiral Gervais";
• "Alyonushka";
• "Mashuk";
• "The Triumph of Pakgum"

Summer variety Williams

dwarf pear, having a height of 2.5 - 3 m, is very popular among owners of small summer cottages. In addition to their compact size, dwarfs begin to bear fruit in the 3rd year of planting, which in relation to pears can be considered exceptional early fruiting. Dwarf pears grafted onto chokeberry or shadberry are distinguished by increased winter hardiness; they often freeze to death on quince. Regardless of the rootstock, all dwarf pears produce fruits of excellent quality, in no way inferior to their tall counterparts.

The best varieties of dwarf pear:

• "Bere Ardanpon";
• "Bere Gardi";
• "Veles";
• “Grand Champion” (“Grand Champion”);
• "Domestic";
• "Parisian";
• “Rossoshanskaya beautiful”;
• "Carmen"

Variety Parisian

Round, pyramidal, columnar pear - description, varieties and photographs

Each pear variety forms its own type of crown, pyramidal or round in shape; columnar pears belong to a separate group. Pears grow quickly, and in many species the shape of the crown changes as the tree develops. The final formation of the crown type occurs at 10 years of age.

Pear with a pyramidal crown- a slender and beautiful tree that requires regular pruning and careful shaping.

Varieties of pyramidal pears:

• "Alexandrin Dulyar";
• "Yuryevskaya";
• "Memorable";
• "Virgin";
• "Record holder";
• "Prominent" ("lumpy");
• "Kabardinka";
• "Bashkir Summer"

Variety Yuryevskaya

Pears with a round crown It is advisable to plant in spacious gardens, because for full development the tree will need a lot of light. The naturally formed rounded crown of a pear tree requires annual corrective pruning.

Varieties of pears with a round crown:

• "Bergamot of Dagestan";
• "Early Sergeeva";
• "Victoria";
• "Kupava";
• "Gimrinskaya";
• "Autumn Susova";
• "Ilyinka";
• "Svarog".

Variety Victoria

Columnar pear for many gardeners it still remains a novelty, but in a short time it has managed to find a lot of admirers, gaining popularity and a place of honor in Russian gardens. Columnar pears belong to the category of dwarfs; the height of an adult tree does not exceed 2.5 m. Due to the weak growth of the branches, the tree has an unusual shape, reminiscent of a column, and the fruits are located near the trunk. Original trees they do not take up much space, begin to bear fruit after 2-3 years of planting, have increased frost resistance and exceptional taste of the fruit. The only drawback of the columnar pear can be considered short life, in 10-12 years the pear orchard will have to be updated.

The best varieties of columnar pear:

• "Night - Vert";
• "Sapphira";
• "Honey";
• "Decor";
• "Carmen";
• "Tenderness";
• "Pavlovskaya";
• "Sanremi."

Sapphira variety

Sweet, sour-sweet, tart-bitter pears - varieties, descriptions and photographs

The taste of the fruit of the pear tree primarily depends on the source material, which became the ancestor of the variety. The taste of the fruit can also be affected by the weather, harvest time and storage conditions. The varietal variety of pears implies 3 main tastes of the fruit: sweet, sweet-sour and tart-bitter.

Sweetpears are rightfully considered the most popular and universal. Juicy sweet fruits have a great taste and are ideal for any type of preparation. In addition, sweet pears are absorbed faster by the body and do not cause stomach upset. The best varieties of sweet pears:

• "Autumn Sweet";
• "Honey";
• "Dessert";
• "Summer Duchess";
• "Yeseninskaya";
• "Botanical";
• "Children's";
• "January".

Variety Yeseninskaya

Sweet and sourpears They constitute the largest varietal group and are valued for their exceptional, tonic and refreshing taste, and also have a beneficial effect on liver function and increase appetite. Varieties of sweet and sour pears:

• "Firefly";
• "Betaulskaya";
• "Karataevskaya";
• “Skorospelka from Michurinsk”;
• “Talitsa” (“Skorospelka Sverdlovskaya”);
• "Volga Autumn";
• "Original";
• "Bere Napoleon" ("Napoleon", "Bonaparte").

Variety Skorospelka from Michurinsk

Bitterish-tart, astringent pear taste due to the increased content of tannins in the peel of the fruit. Varieties of pears with tart taste:

• "Bere Moskovskaya";
• "Pervomayskaya";
• "Astrakhan early";
• "Whiteleaf";
• "Krasnoyarsk Large";
• "Siberian".

Variety Bere Moscow

Self-pollinating (self-fertile) pears - varieties, descriptions and photographs

The vast majority of pear varieties are self-sterile, belong to cross-pollinated plants and require a pollinator, better than a certain variety. Therefore, having planted one pear, you may not expect a harvest at all. The self-fertility of the pear is a rare and very valuable quality, especially in cold seasons, when, due to bad weather, there are few pollinating insects in the gardens. Varieties prone to self-pollination produce a stable harvest of pears in all weather conditions.

Self-fertile (self-pollinating) pear varieties:

• "In memory of Yakovlev";
• "Chizhovskaya";
• "Banquet";
• “Bere winter Michurina”;
• "Anniversary Korneeva".

Variety Memory Yakovlev

The following pear varieties exhibit partial self-fertility:

• "Victoria";
• "Red-cheeked northerner";
• "Rossoshanskaya is beautiful."

Variety Severyanka red-cheeked

The benefits of pears for the body. Vitamins and minerals in pear

Pear contains vitamins A, E, C, K, group B in quantities superior to many other fruits, as well as a large amount of minerals: potassium, calcium, phosphorus, sodium, folic acid. In folk and official medicine, pear is considered a recognized dietary product and a natural source of energy. The unique mineral composition and beneficial properties of pear help fight many diseases:

• potassium normalizes heart function, reduces cholesterol levels, improves metabolic processes;
• calcium, phosphorus And magnesium strengthen the structure of bone tissue;
• sodium maintains water-salt balance and pancreas function;
• folic acid improves the hematopoietic system;
• anti-inflammatory antibiotic arbutin reduces the risk of prostatitis;
• tannins stop diarrhea.

Pear fruits contain fructose and a small amount of calories (42-58 kcal/100 g), therefore they are invaluable as a dietary food and are recommended for diabetes.

Pear: harm and contraindications

• For elderly and senile people who have a history of any nervous system disorders or gastrointestinal diseases (especially stomach ulcers), sour or too tart varieties of pears are absolutely contraindicated.
• Pear pulp contains a lot of hard fiber, which irritates weakened, diseased intestines and takes quite a long time to digest.
• Dried pear fruits are quite tasty, but very high in calories, so those who want to lose weight should not include them in their menu.

• Until tobacco appeared in European countries, pear tree leaves, dried and crushed in a mortar, were used for smoking.
• In the 17th century, the pear fruit was called "butter fruit" because its soft texture resembled such a product.
• IN Ancient Greece The aromatic pear fruits were consumed as a remedy for nausea.
• Lines of professional architects are still made from pear wood, because this wood is absolutely not deformed.
• Pear fruits are often recommended as complementary foods for babies whose mothers are weaning them: this fact is associated with low rate allergenicity and minimal acidity of the fruit.

Apple tree

The apple tree is the main fruit crop throughout the world. Such a wide distribution of the apple tree is explained by its high adaptability to a wide variety of soil and climatic conditions, the richness of species, the presence of varieties with different ripening and consumption periods, and high productivity.

How to plant?

Usually, even novice gardeners know well that a tree must be planted up to the root collar. But where this very neck is located is determined incorrectly by most.

Remember: the root collar is the place where the first root departs from the trunk, in other words, the transition of the trunk into the root. The grafting can be 10 or 20 cm above the root collar (see photo). The deepening of the apple tree, as a rule, leads to a gradual warming of the bark, especially on heavy clay soils, where melt and rainwater persist for a long time.

Fruit trees with a recessed root collar, if they do not die immediately because of this, then develop very poorly, have a depressed appearance, do not produce growth, and their leaves are small and pale. Up to ten years, and sometimes for the rest of their lives, they do not have a normal harvest.

That is why it is important to prevent deepening, to notice it in time, and to raise or even replant the buried tree in a timely manner.

Having learned about this mistake, they often make a new one: they dig up the earth from the trunk. But such a technique not only will not help, it will even make the situation worse. In the resulting depression, frost damage to the trunk increases. On heavy clay soils, water will stagnate in the depression, which will also lead to warming of the bark.

By the way, one of the common reasons for deepening is planting in freshly prepared planting holes, the loose soil of which gradually settles to about 1/5 of the depth. At the same time, the seedlings are pulled down, and the deeper the hole, the deeper they are buried. At a depth of 50 cm, the root collar of the seedling may be 10 cm below the soil level in the area.

It is better to allocate land that was occupied by currants and gooseberries for new apple trees. If you still have to plant an apple tree by apple tree, then the new trees are placed at some distance from the center of the previous trunk circles. Close location groundwater may cause poor fruiting or even complete absence of harvest on the apple tree. In this case, it is necessary to plant on a mound.

Crown formation and pruning

The best time to prune an apple tree is the end of March - beginning of April. Where to begin?

If you are going to prune poorly formed trees, first of all pay attention to the crown as a whole. Mark the branches coming from the trunk at an acute angle and cut them with a saw. Do not cut out thick branches completely; leave the stumps that you cut out for next year. The thicker the stump, the longer it should be (from 25 to 70 mm). Consider how many tips the tree has and remove competing branches.

Now pay attention to the skeletal branches. They often overtake each other in growth, as a result of which the crown of the tree becomes one-sided. Trim them in tiers so that each bottom tier is 15–20 cm from the next.

Assess the development of annual shoots that end the main branches. To prevent sharp corners, cut out every second shoot to give room for the first one to develop. Shorten all remaining shoots by 1/3 of the length. This will cause additional branching, which will make the tree dense and lush.

With ideal subordination, each terminal shoot will be longer than the one below. Competing shoots should also be removed in this case.

When shortening the shoot of trees with a pyramidal crown, leave the outer bud at the top, and the inner bud for spreading trees. Also shorten large branches. After such pruning, pyramidal trees will take the shape of shot glasses, and spreading trees will take the shape of wide glasses.

In addition to external and internal buds, there are buds of other directions on the shoots. They are used in cases where the branch needs to be turned in the other direction, for example, towards the bare part of the crown or a fallen branch.

If you decide to form the crown of a recently planted tree, it is better to start with a two-year-old seedling. We offer a ready-made recipe for the formation of a strong and accessible thin-tiered crown.

The height of the trunk is 50 cm. Select 3 branches with a distance from each other on the stem of 10–15 cm and their divergence angle (when viewed from above) of 60-70°C. These are future skeletal branches. Shorten them by 1/3 of the length so that the ends are at the same level. The conductor after shortening should rise above the branches by 15–20 cm.

Bend all intermediate strong branches to slightly drooping ones towards the ground using twine tied to pegs. Do not touch small branches. Cut the competitor into a ring.

It only remains to add that this form provides not 3, but 5–6 skeletal branches. The missing 2–3 branches will have to be laid in subsequent years, one per year, since the distance between them and the first tier should be 50–60 cm. Select new branches according to the same rules as in the first case: cut them, cut them ring of competitors and branches with sharp corners, save the weak ones. We will spend 5–6 years on the formation of the crown. During this time the tree will reach 2–2.5 m and begin to bear fruit. Wait another year and cut the conductor above a good horizontal branch. In the future, the growth of the tree should be limited and kept within 2.5–3.0 m.

When pruning a tree, make sure that the crown is not too thick. This is necessary so that the fruits ripen more evenly.

Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks

The climate of the Black Earth Region is favorable for growing apple trees on dwarf rootstocks. But you need to know the problems and all the nuances in agricultural activities in order to expect a 100% return.

The main advantage of dwarfs is early pregnancy and high productivity. They begin to bear fruit from the third year, and then produce up to a ton of apples per hundred square meters. Small-sized trees can be planted much more densely, and even in a limited area you can have the desired set of varieties. Often an unscrupulous merchant dumps poor quality seedlings for superdwarfism. Do not believe it: the dwarfism of a tree is manifested due to the dwarf rootstock only after it enters the period of fruiting. Seedlings on any rootstock must have normal growth vigor and development characteristic of the scion variety. For a one-year-old, this norm is 50–70 cm.

Apple trees on a dwarf rootstock should be planted in well-warmed areas with light soil, where there is never an accumulation of stagnant water. If the soil in your area takes a long time to warm up in the spring, then try to grow dwarfs on the stem insert of a dwarf rootstock. In this case, the roots will belong to a reliable and proven seed rootstock, which will ensure good growth and high yield.

The disadvantage of dwarf rootstocks is a weak superficial root system, which causes the trees to bend and die if measures are not taken. They definitely need support. But caring for them is very convenient: when treating trees against diseases and pests, the entire crown is under control, and when harvesting, you can get up to 90% of removable fruits.

Damage to the top. If for some reason a seedling on a dwarf rootstock loses its top and only a stump remains, do not rush to give up on it. A damaged tree can be restored provided that at least 2-3 buds of the grafted variety remain on it. In the spring, as soon as shoots begin to grow from them, you need to pluck out the two upper buds and tie a strong shoot to the remaining stump. In this case, it will grow vertically. The remaining shoots should be removed so that only one gets food. When the shoot acquires a stable vertical position and becomes woody, the tie is removed and the stump is cut out at the very base. This can be done at the end of July or in early spring next year. If the growth of the remaining stub is left to chance, then instead of a slender tree you will end up with a low bush, since the lateral buds grow to the sides.

Pruning to limit the crown is necessary.

Columnar garden

In the last century, horticultural science has made significant progress. During the life of I.V. Michurin, the goal was set of breeding large-fruited winter-hardy varieties of apple and pear trees for all corners Soviet Union. Fruitful work was carried out in the field of creating dwarf rootstocks. Experimental stations and variety testing sites were organized throughout the country, where varieties were tested and new technologies in horticulture, berry growing and viticulture were developed.

Dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks obtained by V. I. Budagovsky became world famous. Breeders from Michurinsk and Orel developed a number of beautiful, large and tasty varieties of apple and pear trees that successfully competed with southern varieties. Amateur gardeners have contributed a lot of interesting things to science and practice. N. M. Skorodumov from Taganrog, for example, developed an original technology for planting a garden, called the “Taganrog boat”.

But horticultural science also advanced abroad. Thus, in England the technology of planting and growing a “meadow garden” was developed. In the USA, the first spur variety Starkrimson was obtained, characterized by a compact, weakly branching crown and bearing fruit on ringlets and spears.

The yield of one hectare of “meadow garden”, “spur garden”, “Taganrog boat” was 5-10 times higher than the yield of an ordinary dwarf garden.

However, a clone discovered in 1964 on a Canadian farm surprised all gardeners in the world. The branch on the Mekintosh apple tree was thicker than the others, grew vertically upward, and was covered with densely growing dark green leaves. On the branches along the entire circumference, bright red fruits with smooth skin grew on spurs. The taste of the fruit differed little from the taste of the main variety.

After the buds taken from the branch that surprised everyone were grafted onto the rootstocks, the desired seedlings were obtained. They grew vertically upward with one trunk. In the second year, the seedlings around the entire circumference bloomed and produced tasty fruits.

This gift of nature came under the close attention of gardeners around the world. The variety was named Vazhan. In the 1970s, this variety and some seedlings from England were brought to the Moscow region by V.V. Kichina. Since that time, in various gardening centers of Russia - Moscow, Orel, Michurinsk, Rossoshi, Krasnodar - many columnar varieties of apple trees have been created.

When studying columnar varieties, it was revealed that these natural dwarfs retain their qualities only on dwarf and semi-dwarf rootstocks. An important point is the peculiarities of pruning columnar varieties. Usually the central conductor is not shortened, the side branches are cut by 2–3 cm, turning them into fruiting branches - “spurs”. If the columns have many side branches, it means they are not loaded with crops.

Experiments carried out on planting schemes for columnar varieties have shown that such varieties do not tolerate shading and require good care, fertilizing, irrigation and pest and disease control. Recommended planting patterns for columns on dwarf rootstocks in our region: 0.5–0.8 m in a row, 0.8–1.2 m between rows.

Fruiting of columnar varieties is concentrated on ringlets and spurs, which live up to 15 years. The columnar varieties bred in Russia are at the level of the well-known Antonovka and Melba varieties in terms of winter hardiness. Basically, these varieties are resistant to scab. The fruit yield from one tree is 3-10 kg. Almost 100% can be removed without the help of a ladder. According to the ripening period, most columnar varieties - summer-autumn and autumn- winter term maturation.

Columnar varieties allow on a plot of 100 square meters. m to plant 30–50 trees, which cannot be done with trees on dwarf rootstocks. In this case, you can choose a wide range of varieties that differ in taste, color and timing of fruit ripening.

Now about the most important thing: where to buy seedlings of columnar varieties? Of course, in specialized nurseries, at regional experimental stations. Voronezh amateur gardeners can use the services of I. O. Rodionov’s nursery (Babyakovo village, Novousmansky district).

Using this characteristic, every amateur gardener who wants to plant a columnar garden on his plot can choose varieties for it to suit his taste.

Growing rootstocks and seedlings from woody cuttings

In the fall, when the leaves fall, lignified cuttings of apple and pear trees are harvested. The best material seedlings grafted this year are considered. In the fall, the strongest plants are cut 12–15 cm above the budding site. Then cuttings are cut from these branched shoots so that each cutting has a part of a two-year shoot at the bottom - a “heel”. It is believed that at the point where the side shoot departs from the main shoot, a large number of dormant buds are concentrated, which then form roots. The cut cuttings should be no thinner than 7 mm in diameter and 25–30 cm in length. The cuttings are disassembled and tied into bundles, separately - with and without a “heel”. Cuttings tied into bundles are stored buried in sand at a temperature of +2°C...+6°C. In the basement, some cuttings form callus (root tissue) at the cut sites. In early spring, the cuttings are placed on a sprout for better formation of rudimentary roots. For kilching, dig a trench 40 cm deep and the same width; the length of the trench will depend on the number of cuttings. After preparing the trench, the cuttings are installed in it with the upper ends down and the lower ends up. The bunches are placed close to each other, and well-moistened soil with rotted manure or sawdust is poured on top. Wire arcs are installed on top of this trench: their height above the cuttings should be no higher than 30–40 cm in the center. A film is stretched over the arcs, which is then covered with earth on all sides. Once a week, it is advisable to open the film and moisten the soil.

A month later the trench is opened. By this time, the cuttings have formed root rudiments, or callus, on the underside facing upward, which in almost 100% of cases are formed in such rootstocks as 62-396, 54-118, Arm-18, quince-A, quince VA- 29. The pickled cuttings are covered with a canopy or immediately placed in a manure-earth mash. Planted cuttings are planted and watered after planting. For better rooting and preparation of plants for budding, arcs of steel wire 4–5 mm thick are installed over the paired rows and the film is stretched. It is covered with earth on both sides so that high humidity and heat are maintained in the resulting tunnel. After 8-10 days, the film is lifted from the end and an irrigation hose is lowered into the furrow.

The cuttings remain under the film for 25–30 days. Depending on the rootstock, 70–80% of the planted cuttings of such rootstocks as 54-118, 62-396, Arm-18, quince MA, quince VA-29 take root and are suitable for budding. This method is good when there is a shortage of rootstock material for apple and pear trees. You need to remove the film in cloudy weather or in the evening to avoid burns.

Yu. V. Kositsyn.

Foliar feeding

Foliar feeding provides the plant with nutrition through the leaves. They stimulate growth, the formation of flowers, the formation of crops and at the same time eliminate nutritional deficiencies or prevent physiological disorders and diseases.

Foliar feeding is especially effective in cases where the soil is poor in nutrients due to strong leaching or, conversely, their low solubility due to lack of moisture. In addition, if the soil is cold, nutrients are less absorbed through the roots and the effect of foliar feeding is greater.

They can also be used to solve other problems. Thus, the main measure to combat lime chlorosis is spraying the leaves of fruit trees with a 0.5–0.7% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Spray apple orchards after flowering with Bordeaux mixture with the addition of 5 g of urea or 3–5 g per 1 liter ammonium nitrate and in the fall after harvesting - with a 4–5% urea solution.

If trees freeze or bountiful harvest, and also when sodding the rows, foliar feeding is carried out in the fall (before leaf fall) with a 4–5% urea solution, in the summer - 0.5% to enrich the plants with nitrogen and combat scab. In the latter case, the best effect is obtained by Crystallin in the same concentration.

If the ends of the shoots of apple and pear trees die off and the fruit pulp becomes corked, the trees are sprayed during the budding and flowering phase with a solution of boric acid (0.05-0.15%) or borax (0.2-0.25%).

In case of disease with small leaves and rosette shoots, trees are treated during the growing season with a solution of zinc sulfate (0.25-0.50%). During the dormant period, you can spray with more concentrated solutions - from 1 to 3%.

Effective foliar feeding at the beginning of flowering and in the phase of laying fruit buds. For spraying, use a 0.3–0.5% solution of urea, a 1% solution of superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

In the second half of summer, to increase frost resistance, plants are given foliar feeding with a 3% extract of simple superphosphate or a 2% extract of double superphosphate.

Quick harvest

There are some techniques that speed up the entry into fruiting of young trees.

Bending (deviation, changing the angle of inclination) is a technique that has long been known and quite effective. When bent, the branch slows down its growth in length, and at the same time the number of awakened buds increases, from which mainly short increments (fruit branches) grow. You can reject branches at any time - from the beginning of sap flow until leaf fall (it is better to reject the current year's growth in July, after growth has finished, semi-lignified). The lower bent branches are tied to pegs driven into the ground or to a trunk, and the subsequent ones are tied to the branches located below. After the branches take the desired position, usually after 3–4 weeks, the fixing material is removed. This must be done in a timely manner to avoid the formation of constrictions.

Bent branches after several high harvests, as they age, are either rejuvenated or gradually cut out.

For good fruiting, soil content plays a significant role. If you prefer to keep it under fallow, then systematically apply organic and mineral fertilizers, otherwise the soil structure will be disturbed. It is better to dig up soil in the garden in a young garden, when the trees are still small.

In a fruit-bearing garden, it is recommended to water the soil with cereal grasses with a weak root system - meadow bluegrass (1.5–2 g per 1 sq. m), meadow fescue (4–5 g per 1 sq. m) or a mixture of them. The grass is mowed 4-6 times per season and left in place. Organic fertilizers are not applied to tinned areas. If the soil was initially poorly cultivated, fertilizers can be given to the tree trunks at the rate of 4–6 kg of fertilizer per 1 sq. m. m crown projection.

Why are they tasteless?

It would seem that everything was done correctly in the garden: in the fall, “they applied manure and mineral fertilizers, in the spring, the trees were pruned, fed with nitrogen, and the apples, although large, were pale and unsweetened. Moreover, they are poorly stored: some have stains, others have softened, some have cracked. What's the matter?

FIRST ERROR. If fertilizer is applied in the fall, it should not be done in the spring.

SECOND ERROR. Tree feeding and pruning were carried out in the same year.

These techniques cannot be combined, since pruning is equivalent to applying nitrogen fertilizers. By the way; high level Nitrogen nutrition in combination with pruning delays the entry of apple and pear trees into fruiting for several years.

Pay attention to the weather of the past and current seasons. After a warm year, a lot of mineral nitrogen accumulates in the soil, and fertilizing will be harmful. They will increase the growth of shoots to the detriment of fruiting and especially the quality of apples. For this reason, it is undesirable to apply nitrogen even at the “dry” beginning of the growing season.

Fruit quality is often associated with excess nitrogen. However, studies show that the calcium content in diseased fruits is reduced.

Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, boron and magnesium affect plant life through interaction with calcium.

In recent years, the widespread use of concentrated, almost ballast-free fertilizers, the replacement of Bordeaux mixture with new fungicides that do not contain calcium, and steam tillage of the soil have led to a decrease in calcium content and, accordingly, to a deterioration in the quality of fruits.

On soddy-podzolic soils, calcium loss is caused by long-term use of acidic fertilizers, such as ammonium sulfate, potassium chloride, as well as long-term use of pesticides containing sulfur.

Often, an increased need for calcium occurs when systematically applying nitrate nitrogen fertilizers due to the fact that more oxalic acid is formed in the plant and the need for calcium in the cells to neutralize it increases.

If nitrogen fertilizers are applied in May-August, the quality of apples and pears decreases.

In addition, gardeners sometimes water too often. fruit trees. In this case, soluble calcium is washed out of the root zone.

First, the roots stop growing, and sometimes they rot. Young leaves become small, ugly in shape, with spots and even dead areas. It happens that the apical buds die off on the shoots. By the way, alfalfa does not grow if there is a lack of calcium in the soil. Reduces soil acidity and at the same time improves the calcium nutrition of apple and pear trees by liming - 20–30 kg of lime materials per 100 sq. m. m. They should be embedded into the soil at a depth of 12–15 cm. When digging deeper, the effect is lower. There is no need to apply lime in high doses, since a sudden (by more than 1.5 pH units) change in the acidity of the soil solution at one time is harmful to plants.

It can convert boron into a form inaccessible to roots, and also reduce the content of essential manganese and phosphorus. It is better to lime once or twice every 2-3 years.

Healthy apples with good shelf life contain at least 200 mg/kg of calcium, and pears contain at least 300 mg/kg of dry weight. In all cases, fruits affected by bitter pitting, spotting, scab, browning of the core, other rots and physiological disorders always contain 30–40% less calcium than healthy fruits in the same garden. To enrich fruits with calcium, 2 to 5 sprays are carried out with 0.5% solutions of calcium chloride or calcium nitrate. The first time is when the ovary forms, and the last time is three weeks before the fruit ripens.

If the soil in the garden is under black fallow, an excess of nitrogen may appear with a simultaneous lack of potassium. This leads to a lack of harvest and pale color of the fruit. To establish a balance between the size and quality of the crop, moderate doses of potassium fertilizers should be added to the fallow soil - 1 kg of potassium salt or 0.7 kg of potassium chloride per 100 square meters. m.

Sodding the soil without excessive watering and fertilizing with nitrogen will provide you with well-stored, dense fruits with bright colors. Of course, to prevent the fruits from becoming smaller, in such a garden, for each hundred square meters it would be necessary to add, depending on the density of the grass stand, 1.5–2.5 kg of ammonium nitrate. The nitrogen will serve as food for the grasses so that they do not take soil nitrogen from the roots of the trees. As a rule, in such a turfed garden the fruits are of high quality and without spraying or “bathing” in calcium chloride solutions.

To link the soil maintenance system, the size and quality of the harvest with the convenience of caring for the garden in any weather, you need to loosen the soil on one side of a tree or row of trees and apply potassium fertilizers during the season, and on the other, keep it under the grass and feed it with nitrogen.

Fruit quality improves markedly if the current year's growth is removed 2–4 weeks before harvesting.

Frequency of fruiting? Cancel!

Many apple trees bear fruit within a year. In certain varieties this phenomenon is hereditary, in others it is acquired. Periodicity appears due to poor care or severe pruning (more than 30% of branches) of an apple tree that has not been pruned for a long time. Therefore, heavily dense trees are pruned in several stages over 3–4 years.

It is possible to combat the frequency of fruiting with a balanced diet in combination with banding.

At the end of the growing season, when fruit buds are formed, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers dissolved in water (20 l) are applied at the rate of 40 g of double superphosphate and 60 g of potassium sulfate per 1 m 2 of tree trunk circle. After 1–2 hours, pour the same amount of water under this apple tree and mulch the tree trunk circle with a 5 cm layer of humus. In early spring, in the 2nd–3rd decade of March, apply fertilizer to the tree trunk circle at the rate of 70–80 g per 1 m2. Bandages are applied in early April, finishing this work before the kidneys swell, so as not to damage them. The material for bandaging can be a strong rope with a diameter of 4–6 mm or soft aluminum wire. On the main skeletal branches or on the conductor, if it is not thicker than 12–14 cm, a flat area is selected and a bandage 20–30 cm long is applied very tightly turn to turn. During the season, three foliar feedings are carried out with a complete mineral fertilizer with microelements: the first after flowering , the second after 20 days, the third after 22–25 days after the second feeding.

At the end of the growing season, the bandages must be removed and the bark under them must be cut down to the wood on three sides with a garden knife - “to increase the value.” This technique allows the banded area to be equal in thickness to the non-banded area. Usually, banding together with proper nutrition “cancels” the frequency of fruiting the first time. By the way, it is useful to increase the value of the conductor and the main branches on all apple trees. The bark in these places thickens, becomes elastic, resistant to low temperatures and sunburn. The fruits on such apple trees become larger and ripen better. It is advisable to carry out the increase in price after 2–3 years and always in new places.

This technique can also be used in cases where the tree produces a low yield, or in order to speed up the entry into fruiting of young apple trees. You just need to reduce the length of the bandage and apply it to the conductor.

Ax under the apple tree

Many gardens have small areas, where something inhibits the development and fruiting of plants. Experts in the field of plant bioenergy suggest the presence of geopathogenic zones in such places.

In the old days they said: “If an apple tree doesn’t bear fruit for a long time, bury an ax under it,” as if hinting: if you don’t bear fruit, I’ll cut it down! And indeed, the apple tree began to bear fruit. Now we know that the reason lies in the location of the tree in the area of ​​​​intersection of geomagnetic force lines. Their influence and vector can be changed by placing them in this zone metal object, of course, not necessarily an axe. This means that when planning plantings, especially trees and valuable shrubs, the location of geopathogenic zones should be taken into account using the dowsing method. Otherwise, we won’t wait for the harvest.

When sodding the garden, the mowed grass is left in place. It insulates the roots and fertilizes the soil.

Apple storage

Will you be able to save the apple harvest? Why does this depend? First of all from the right choice varieties, quality of fruits and the ability to maintain temperature, relative humidity, and atmospheric composition in storage at a certain level.

In the conditions of the middle zone, the fruits of the winter apple varieties Northern Sinap, Renet Chernenko, Bogatyr, Lobo, Spartak, Welsey have the greatest shelf life. Meanwhile, the shelf life of fruits of even the same variety, but grown in dissimilar environmental and agrotechnical conditions, is different.

Each variety has its own harvesting period, lasting several days. It is better to harvest in the morning - the fruits cool overnight.

10–12 days before laying in the basement, the fruits begin to be cooled, using lower air temperatures at night or on cool days, placing them under a canopy or in a cool and clean room. If apples are cooled for only a day (at a temperature of 18–20 degrees), their shelf life will be reduced by 10–15 days.

Sorted fruits are usually placed in boxes with a capacity of 10–25 kg (they are pre-disinfected with a 0.25% solution of calcium hypochlorite or a 4–5% solution of copper sulfate). It is better to wrap each fruit in paper soaked in mineral oils (vaseline). This eliminates the development of tanning, reduces moisture loss, and reduces losses from rot. Napkins for packaging are prepared as follows: wrap a cloth around a rolling pin or roller, lightly soak it with petroleum jelly and roll out paper napkins.

If you don't have oiled paper, you can use regular paper, although the results will be slightly worse. For relayering of fruits, healthy, clean leaves oak, maple, aspen, soft hardwood shavings, or finely chopped parchment paper shavings.

Apples of late winter varieties can be stored for a long time in ordinary plastic bags or bags; they do not let in the smell and preserve carbon dioxide, that is, they create a special microclimate. Remove apples of winter and late winter varieties from the tree at the technical ripeness stage and let them rest in a cool room for 10–15 days. After this, put healthy fruits without mechanical damage and not affected by diseases into bags of 8-10 kg each, tie them with polyethylene cord to create a tight seal. Then place them in boxes and then in the basement.

Apples are usually stored in rooms where the air temperature can be maintained for a long time not lower than -1°C and not higher than +5°C, and the relative air humidity is 85–95%. Most often, cellars or basements are used for this. With differences of even 2–3 degrees, the fruit begins to breathe intensively, the ripening process accelerates, and the quality deteriorates.

Apples of the varieties Antonovka ordinary, Pobeditel, Bogatyr are stored at a temperature of 2–4 degrees, Pepin saffron, Welsey, Northern Sinap, Zhigulevskoe, Orange - at a temperature of -1 to +1 degrees.

Optimal relative humidity is maintained by moistening the basement: watering the floor or installing vessels with water. High humidity is especially important during loading periods. The basement is systematically ventilated to remove ethylene and other organic compounds. Apples of the Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Cinnamon novoe, and Welsey varieties react especially quickly to low air humidity and wilt.

To protect fruits from spoilage in winter, you can line the container with pine shavings. Resinous substances kill pathogenic bacteria. The pine “bed” for fruit can be successfully replaced by spicy and aromatic herbs growing in the garden - marjoram, basil, savory. They need to be dried before flowering and hidden until autumn in paper or canvas bags, hung in a dry, ventilated room. When it’s time to harvest, line the bottom of the boxes with herbs, place apples on them, and cover them again with a layer of such “hay.” In a flavored bed, fruits are stored for a long time without losing their presentation or taste.

The keeping quality of apple fruits is not least influenced by the weather at the time of their ripening. In cold, rainy summers, the fruits are poorly colored, they have high acidity and, as a result, they are poorly stored. But even in hot summers, when the process of growth and ripening is intense, the shelf life of the fruits also decreases.

According to the duration of storage, all varieties are divided into three groups:

early winter consumption (up to 90 days) – Antonovka ordinary, Bessemyanka Michurinskaya, Belflerkitaika, Zhigulevskoe, Zvezdochka, Kuibyshevskoe, Orlovskoe striped, Autumn striped, Glory to the winners;

winter consumption (90-150 days) – Babushkino, Bolotovskoe, Cinnamon novo, Imrus, Lobo, Mekintosh, Orange, Orlik, Memory of the Warrior, Pepin saffron, Memory of Michurin, Rossoshanskoe striped, Spartan, Stroevskoe;

winter-spring consumption (more than 150 days) – Bogatyr, Belorussky Sinap, Beforest, Winter Striped, Renet Chernenko, Freshness, Northern Sinap, Orlovsky Sinap, Welsey.

Apple varieties

Intensive varieties

These varieties are distinguished by the early onset of fruiting, rapid increase in yields, their abundance and regularity. In full, all these properties are found only in some varieties; individually, in a large number. For example, while most varieties begin to bear fruit in the fourth to sixth year after planting and even later, some Melba, Lobo, Welsey, Young Naturalist, Orlik, Zhigulevskoe, Spartak, Daughter of Papirovka, Elite– begin to bear fruit already in the first three years after planting. At the same time, it is important not just the early start of fruiting, but also the rapid increase in yields.

Varieties also differ in their ability to bear fruit regularly. Some are regularly fruiting and produce crops annually, while others are periodically fruiting and bear fruit every other year. Many varieties are characterized by an average frequency of fruiting: they alternate high yields with small ones, and in some years there may even be a complete absence of fruits. The frequency of fruiting in these varieties is usually related to the conditions of their cultivation: with careful care they bear fruit annually, with poor care - every other year. The main reason for the frequency of fruiting is excessive harvests. There is a “failure” in fruiting. That is why varieties with fairly high, but at the same time regular fruiting, are especially valued, for example Zhigulevskoe, Northern Synap, Kuibyshevskoe, Spartak, Daughter of Papirovka, Kutuzovets.

Since the frequency of fruiting is related to the size of the harvest, it is clear that in young trees it manifests itself to a lesser extent, and with age, as yields increase, it intensifies.

Evgeny Sedov, academician of the Russian Academy of Agriculture, Orel: “I think that the future belongs to immune varieties. An extra 5-6 sprayings can be eliminated. These varieties have fairly high commercial and taste qualities.”

Varieties immune to scab

Scab is a common disease of apple trees and truly the scourge of our orchards. It affects leaves and fruits, reduces tree yields, worsens their condition and winter hardiness. The infection spreads throughout the garden in the spring by spores of a fungus that overwinters in the leaves that have fallen in the fall. Even varieties such as Welsey and Korichnoe, which were previously resistant, have become vulnerable. The only way out is chemical treatment or new varieties that are immune to the disease, that is, they are not affected by the disease even in the rainiest summer. This advantage allows you to do without numerous sprayings of the garden.

Here a brief description of new varieties.

VENYAMINOVSKOE

Winter, relatively winter-hardy variety. The trees are quite large, with a relatively sparse crown. The fruits are medium-sized (130 g), conical, wide-ribbed. The skin is smooth, oily, shiny. The top coat color on most of the surface is in the form of a crimson blush. The pulp is white, greenish, dense, juicy. Evaluation of the appearance and taste of the fruit is 4.4 points. Harvest maturity mid-September. In storage or a basement, the fruits can be stored until the end of February. Productivity young tree 15 kg.

KANDIL ORLOVSKY

The trees are medium-sized, with a rounded crown and drooping branches. The fruits are medium-sized (137 g), oblong-conical, strongly ribbed, oblique. The outer color occupies half of the fruit in the form of a blurred crimson blush. The pulp is white, greenish, tender, fine-grained, juicy, sweet and sour taste (4.4 points). Harvest in mid-September. The fruits can be stored until February. The variety is early-bearing, productive (14 kg per young tree) and quite winter-hardy.

KURNAKOVSKOE

The trees are medium-sized, with a pyramidal crown of medium density. The fruits are medium-sized (125 g), oblong-conical, slightly ribbed, oblique at the apex. The outer color occupies most of the surface of the fruit in the form of pink stripes. The pulp is creamy, dense, tender, fine-grained, juicy, of good taste (4.3 points). The variety is early-bearing and productive (15 kg per young tree). Removable fruit maturity occurs in the second half of September. They can be stored in storage until mid-February.

ORYOL POLESIE

Trees are medium in size. The fruits are relatively large (170 g), oblong-conical, wide-ribbed. The cover color on most of the surface is in the form of stripes and specks of red color. The pulp is white, creamy, dense, prickly, coarse-grained, very juicy (appearance 4.4, taste 4.3 points). The variety is early-bearing and productive (13 kg per young tree).

SUN

Early winter variety. The trees are below average in size with a rounded crown. Winter-hardy. The shoots are relatively thick, with close internodes. The fruits are above average size (160 g), oblong, broadly ribbed, oblique, with a short stalk. The top coat is coated over the entire surface in the form of a bright, solid crimson blush. The pulp is white, creamy, dense, fine-grained, very juicy (appearance 4.4, taste 4.3 points). Harvesting maturity occurs on September 15–20. The consumer period is from October 10 to mid or late January. The yield of young trees is 11 kg.

STROEVSKOE

Winter variety. The trees are medium-sized, fast-growing, with a wide-pyramidal crown of medium density. The variety is characterized by relatively high winter hardiness. The fruits are large or above average size (150–170 g), conical, slightly ribbed, flattened. The top coat color on most of the surface is in the form of merging stripes and a blurred crimson blush. The pulp is white, greenish, dense, coarse-grained, juicy (appearance 4.5, taste 4.4 points). Fruit maturity is mid-September. May persist until mid-February. The variety is productive (13 kg from young trees).

START

Winter variety. The trees are medium-sized, with a rounded crown, quite winter-hardy. The shoots are thin and straight. The fruits are harvested on September 15–20. The consumer period lasts from mid-October to mid-to-late February. The yield of young trees is 17 kg.

Varieties with high scab resistance

In addition to immune varieties, varieties with high resistance to scab (which are slightly affected by it in unfavorable years) have become widespread. These varieties include: Veteran, Venyaminovskoe, Imrus, Kandil Orlovsky, Orlovim, Orlovsky Pioneer, Orlik, Orlovskoe Polosatoe, Sinap Orlovsky, Zoryanka, Orlinka, Early Aloe.

Orlovim

Summer ripening variety. High-yielding – up to 25 t/ha. The fruits are large and one-dimensional. The outer coloration is in the form of bright red stripes and a blurred blush. The pulp of the fruit is creamy, very juicy, sweet and sour, with a strong aroma, taste - 4.5 points.

ORYOL PIONEER

Autumn ripening period. High-yielding – 18.4 t/ha. The fruits are large (150 g), strongly flattened (ribbed). The main color at the time of picking is greenish, the top color is in the form of a blurred blush and red stripes, the taste of the fruit is 4.2 points.

IMRUS(immune Russian)

Winter ripening period. High-yielding -16.7 t/ha. The fruits are above average size (120–130 g), conical, slightly ribbed. The outer color in the form of stripes, streaks and a blurred blush is brownish-red at the time of picking the fruit, crimson during consumption, taste – 4.3 points. The fruits are stored until the end of February - mid-March.

BOLOTOVSKOE

Winter ripening variety. The fruits are large (150–180 g), flattened, broadly ribbed. The outer color on the smaller part of the fruit is in the form of a red blush, consisting of stripes and specks. The pulp is greenish, dense, juicy, the taste of the fruit is 4.3 points. The fruits are stored until mid and late February.

Long-term storage varieties

Nowadays, the number of varieties with long-term storage of fruits has increased significantly. Among them is Lobo, Orlik, Welsey - Their fruits are stored until February. Northern Synap, Sinap Orlovsky, Spartan, Bogatyr, Kutuzovets, Late Sweet, Renet Chernenko, Seedling King retain their qualities until April and later. But almost all of these varieties are not characterized by high winter hardiness.

WELSI

The fruits are quite large, weighing 160 g, symmetrical, orange-yellow, almost completely covered with a strong, blurry blush. The pulp is very juicy, sweet and sour, with a rose aroma, very good taste. The best pollinator is Melba.

Summer varieties

Apples of summer varieties are almost not stored and are not transportable. Therefore, it is recommended to remove them a little earlier than they ripen. Many varieties are characterized by non-simultaneous ripening of fruits on the tree, but this is even good for a family garden, since apples can be used longer, selectively removing them as they ripen. There are few summer varieties.

Varieties open the apple season Quinty, Red early, July Chernenko, Arkad red, Candy, in about a week Papirovka's daughter and even later Lungwort, Mantet, Melba. Showed themselves well Sunny, Carol, Early scarlet, but we still need to watch them.

WHITE FILLING

This variety needs no special introduction. Its name is widely known to a wide range of people, even those not related to gardening. The fruits are large, 100–120 g, round-conical. When completely ripe, the color is whitish-yellow. The pulp is light yellow, juicy, fine-grained, melting, with a pleasant wine-like sweet and sour taste. Productivity up to 170 kg per tree.

MELBA

Fruits weighing from 120 to 200 g, in full maturity yellow, with a bright, delicate, pink-red blush. The pulp is snow-white, pink under the skin, delightfully tender, juicy, fine-grained, of excellent taste. The best-tasting summer variety, ripens at the very end of August and is stored for two months. The best pollinator is Welsey.

SUMMER STRIPED

The tree is very beautiful, with a sparse pyramidal crown, good winter hardiness, and productive. The special value of the variety lies in the very early ripening of the fruits; they begin to ripen at the end of July. Summer Striped apples weigh up to 100 g, are beautiful, marketable, ovoid-elongated, greenish-white, with a red blush. The pulp of the fruit is tender, white, loose, fine-grained, juicy, with a good sweet and sour taste.

PAPPING

An excellent summer variety of folk selection. It is very close to the White filling variety, with which it is often confused. Papirovka differs from White filling in its larger fruits and pronounced seam. The winter hardiness of the variety is high. Padding is one of the most unpretentious varieties, and feels good even in unfavorable soil conditions. Productivity per tree is 225–350 kg. The variety is self-sterile, the best pollinator is Welsey.

AUTUMN STRIPED

It has another name - Streifling. One of the most popular autumn varieties. Mature Autumn Striped trees are very beautiful, have a stocky, strong trunk, powerful branches, with drooping ends. The fruits are medium-sized or large (120–140 g). Throughout the fruit, bright red stripes harmoniously alternate with bright yellow stripes. The pulp is melting, loose, juicy, with an excellent dessert taste with a raspberry flavor. The best pollinators are Antonovka and Papirovka.

Pear care

Caring for a pear tree is not much different from caring for an apple tree, but there are some small differences.

Landing location

Pear, more than other fruit trees, requires warm places protected from the prevailing winds. Particular attention should be paid to the topography of the site, eliminating microdepressions in which water stagnates and the soil becomes compacted, which leads to the death of trees.

The growth of a pear and its yield are primarily related to the quality of the soil. It should be structural and fertile. This culture tolerates any soil. The only exceptions are sandy and gravelly ones. But the taste and aroma of the fruit, the consistency of the pear pulp depend on the properties of the soil to a greater extent than in others fruit plants. The reaction of the soil is also significant. Pear grows best on slightly acidic and neutral, fairly loose soils. When waterlogged, it is more difficult for the roots to absorb iron, and the trees develop chlorosis. Varieties grafted on weak-growing rootstocks, such as quince, need more fertile soils than on vigorous-growing ones (pear seedlings).

Pear in at a young age requires more moisture, since at this time the taproot has very few root lobes. And when the roots grow and reach a considerable depth, the pear, on the contrary, reacts negatively to excess moisture in the lower layers of the soil. Moreover, with prolonged waterlogging, the roots die. Excess moisture is eliminated through drainage (drying) of the soil and cultural grassing (sowing grass).

Pear is a light-loving plant, so when the lighting is insufficient, the trees develop poorly and their productivity decreases. With favorable lighting, trees do not stretch out and grow wider; their branches do not become bare. The pear makes the greatest demands on light during flowering and fruit formation. Due to insufficient lighting, flower buds are underdeveloped and the fruits have a weak color.

Western European, Baltic, as well as many varieties bred in the more southern regions of Russia, cannot be grown where frosts reach 26 ° C and below. Frosts down to 30–35°C can only be tolerated by the most winter-hardy Central Russian varieties (Tonkovetka) and Lukashovki (Lida, Olga, Polya).

The nature of winter damage to trees depends on the age of the tree, its condition, the degree of fruiting in the previous year, the compatibility of the variety with the rootstock, and finally, on agricultural technology. Young trees are more sensitive to frost for the first 2–3 years due to damage to the roots when dug up from the nursery. Moreover, the frost resistance of different parts of the tree is not the same: for example, for branches the critical temperature is minus 25–30°C, vegetative buds – 30–35°C, flower buds – 25–30°C, opened flower buds -4°C, flowers – 2 –3°C, ovaries -1-2°C and roots – 8-10°C. The winter-spring period with sunny days is especially dangerous, when the trunk and skeletal branches of the pear become very hot during the day and quickly cool down at night. Frost resistance in this case is reduced by about a third, especially in the cambium and bark. With severe cooling and subsequent death of damaged tissue, sunburn occurs.

As a result of selection, new, more economically valuable varieties were developed. Of particular interest are the summer ripening varieties Lada and Chizhovskaya, as well as Vidnaya, Detskaya, Kosmicheskaya, Rogneda. There are many good varieties autumn ripening period. The most valuable are Belorusskaya late, Nevelichka, Otradnenskaya, Velesa, Vernaya, Thumbelina, Moskvichka, Osennyaya Susova, Memory of Zhegalov.

From planting to harvest

You can grow seedlings with your own hands. First you need to take care of preparing rootstock seeds. The best vigorous-growing ones are seedlings of the Tonkovetka variety and local semi-cultivars. You can use shadberry, chokeberry, and mountain ash as low-growing rootstocks. Seeds are extracted from the fruits when they begin to soften: for serviceberry - in July-August, chokeberry - in August-September, rowan and pear - in September or early October. For spring sowing, pear seeds are stratified at 0–2°C for at least 90 days, serviceberry -90 days, chokeberry - 80 days, rowan -90 days. Using low-growing rootstocks, such as rowan, the gardener takes a bit of a risk. Such seedlings can develop normally at first, but signs of physiological incompatibility appear when they begin to bear fruit due to the high costs of flowering and fruiting. When purchasing, pay attention to the roots of the seedling: rowan roots.

Seedlings are grafted with an eye (budding) in the summer, with a cutting in the spring, or winter grafting is done. When budding and grafting with cuttings, it takes at least 3 years to grow a 2-year-old seedling; with winter grafting, seedlings are received a year earlier.

Pears on vigorous rootstocks are planted in holes with a diameter of 100–120 cm and a depth of 50–60 cm, on weakly growing ones - 70 and 50 cm, respectively. To the top layer of soil taken from the pit, add 0.8–1 kg of superphosphate, 0.1–0.15 kg of potassium chloride or 1 kg of wood ash and 1.5 kg of lime. 25–30 kg of organic fertilizers (manure is preferable) are added to each pit. It is better to avoid nitrogen fertilizers, since contact with them may cause roots to die and survival conditions to deteriorate. Fill half of the hole with fertilized soil. The root collar of the planted tree should be 4–5 cm above the soil level. Regardless of the weather, the seedling is watered (2-3 buckets per tree). Then the soil is mulched with a layer of peat or compost of at least 5-10 cm. Pears with rounded crowns (regular) on vigorous rootstocks are planted at a distance of 7 m between rows, with flat ones -5 m. The distance in the rows is from 3.5 to 4 m. Rows of trees on low-growing rootstocks are 4–5 m apart from each other and 1.5–2 m apart in a row.

Pears will freeze less if the varieties are grafted into the crown of a skeleton-forming plant. In this case, a single organism is formed, consisting of three parts: a seedling (a weak-growing rootstock is also possible), a winter-hardy insert (Tonkovetka or onions) and the selected variety. The skeleton-forming plant is grafted with an eye or a cutting (improved copulation or behind the bark) in early spring or at the beginning of the growing season. It is important to graft no closer than 20–25 cm from the base of the branch. In this way, it is possible to form a tree with a frost-resistant trunk and the bases of skeletal branches, which are most susceptible to winter damage. Using this method, anyone can grow a “garden tree”.

In the year of planting, the tree usually grows weakly and needs almost no pruning the following spring. At a young age, when the skeleton of the crown is being formed, pruning should be kept to a minimum and carried out only to form the crown. Excess branches are bent to a horizontal position, pulling them with twine to a nail driven into the base of the trunk. This technique speeds up the onset of fruiting.

Unlike the apple tree, the crown of the pear tree is sparser and lighter, and the annual growth is stronger. If the latter are not trimmed, then few branches will form on them. Therefore, the shoots are shortened by one quarter. Pruning of fruit-bearing trees is necessary for high productivity and good quality fruits This is possible if the length of the annual increments is at least 30 cm.

When pruning pears, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that two-year-old shoots are shortened, and flower buds are formed on shoots that grow steeply upward. Pears are very prone to reshaping the crown due to the appearance of long, steeply growing shoots. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out regular formative pruning, removing powerful branches from time to time. During summer pruning, the internal parts of the crown are thinned out.

As trees age, they fail to provide sufficiently strong growth even with the help of advanced agricultural technology. In this case, shortening pruning is the only way to enhance the growth and formation of fruit formations. For this purpose, once every 2–4 years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out along the entire periphery of the crown, and inside the branches are partially pruned to the last annual growth of normal length.

Some rootstock forms of pear form root shoots. In this case, while digging the tree trunk circles, it is dug up to the point of origin and cut out without stumps. For young plants with weakly branched roots, mulching the soil is of great importance.

Fertilizers

It is better to apply fertilizers in the fall into circular grooves 40–50 cm deep along the projection of the crown or into furrows. Phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, along with organic ones, are applied every 5–6 years. Nitrogen fertilizers are fed twice per season: in the spring during the first loosening and during the period of increased shoot growth.

For pears, foliar feeding is important - spraying trees with nutrient solutions to stimulate growth and crop formation, as well as to increase the frost resistance of trees (1-2% solution of potassium sulfate or nitrate and 2-3% solution of superphosphate). Spraying trees with a 0.5–1% urea solution 8–10 days after flowering and repeating 10–14 days later is highly effective.

A mandatory element of annual care to protect against sunburn is early autumn whitewashing of trunks and forks of skeletal branches with a lime solution or special water-emulsion white paint VD-KCH-577.

You should not wait for the fruits on the tree branches to fully ripen for the following varieties of pears: Naryadnaya Efimova, Moskovskaya, Venera, etc.

Fruits from Vidnaya, Velesa, and Petrovskaya pear trees are collected selectively. The harvested crop is ripened in a cool room.

Pear varieties

Pear is a very productive crop. Usually two to three times more fruits are harvested from one tree than from an apple tree. It often happens that under the weight of the harvest, skeletal branches break off from the trunk. With the beginning of fruiting, it is necessary to put supports under them - chatala.

The pear loves good moisture; it should be watered not often, but abundantly. A feature of the pear is reduced winter hardiness at a young age, so to protect it from frost in the first years, it is useful to bury the tree in a snowball. With the beginning of fruiting, winter hardiness increases sharply.

It is very important to correctly determine the time for picking pear fruits. Summer and early autumn varieties should be harvested as they ripen and the color of the skin begins to turn yellow. Autumn and winter ones are harvested in the second or third decade of September before the onset of frost at night below -3°C.

Summer varieties

KRASULYA

This is the best very early variety. The fruits are medium and large, weighing up to 110 g, yellow, with a dark red blush, very elegant. The pulp has a rich sweet taste, slightly spicy, with a very rich and unique range of shades. The taste of the fruits of this magnificent variety was rated 4.7 points. The fruits are stored for 10–12 days.

LADA

Early summer variety. The tree is medium-sized, winter-hardy, productive, and resistant to scab. It begins to bear fruit in 3–4 years. The fruits are medium-sized, 100–120 g, pear-shaped, light yellow with a red blush, resistant to scab. The pulp is yellowish-white, fine-grained, juicy, with a very pleasant sour-sweet taste. Sugar content 8.6%, acids 0.3%. The variety is self-fertile. Removable fruit maturity occurs in the first half of August. Shelf life is up to two weeks, later they become mealy and tasteless.

CATHEDRAL

Late summer variety. In its morphological and technical characteristics it is very similar to Lada, but has larger fruits (up to 160 g) and a slightly later ripening period.

MARBLE

The tree is medium-sized, with a wide-pyramidal crown of powerful skeletal branches. The variety is winter-hardy and resistant to scab. Ripens at the end of August. Fruits weighing 120–160 g, round-conical in shape. The skin is greenish-yellow, with small rusty spots. When ripe, the skin turns beautiful red. The pulp is white with a slight yellowness, coarse-grained, very juicy, melting, aromatic, of high taste. In the refrigerator, the fruits are stored until January.

CHIZHOVSKAYA

Late summer/early autumn variety. The tree is medium-sized, winter-hardy, scab-resistant, and productive. It begins to bear fruit at 3–4 years. The fruits are medium in size, 120–140 g, moderately oval in shape, light green, sometimes with a slight reddish blush with small subcutaneous dots, ripen at the end of August, and are stored for up to a month. The pulp of the fruit is white, fine-grained, juicy, with a sweet dessert taste. The variety is self-fertile; fruits can set in relatively bad weather. Shelf life in the refrigerator is no more than a month.

Autumn varieties

AUTUMN YAKOVLEVA

Early autumn variety. The trees are winter-hardy, vigorous, and have medium early fruiting (from 6–7 years). The fruits are above average size, short pear-shaped, with a slight blush, good dessert taste, stored until mid-October. Scab resistant.

P AMYAT YAKOVLEV

Highly winter-hardy, disease-resistant, self-fertile variety with compact, low-growing trees. The yield of 13-year-old trees is 70 kg. It begins to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting. The pulp is sweet with slight acidity and a very pleasant aroma. The consumption period is the second ten days of September. When stored, the fruits can be stored in the cellar until November.

DESSERT ROSSOSHANSKAYA

The trees are quite winter-hardy in the south and slightly winter-hardy in the north of the Voronezh region, moderately winter-hardy in Orel, medium-vigorous, very early-bearing (4–5 years). High-yielding in favorable conditions. The average yield in Rossosh conditions is 20, maximum 80 kg. The fruits above are large, short pear-shaped or apple-shaped, yellow with a slight blush, good or excellent dessert taste, universal use. They make excellent compotes. Pears are marketable and transportable. Harvesting maturity occurs in early September, consumption lasts until November. The variety is resistant to scab in the entire zone and is self-sterile. The best pollinators are Mramornaya, Osennyaya Yakovleva and other simultaneously flowering varieties.

YAKOVLEV'S FAVORITE

The variety is partially self-fertile and tolerates drought well. It begins to bear fruit 4-5 years after planting. Fruits every year. Productivity up to 80 kg from a 13-year-old tree. The tree is vigorous with a pyramidal crown. The fruits weigh 100–130 g, are cube-shaped, greenish-yellow, with a dirty carmine blurred blush. The pulp is juicy, sweet and sour, with a quince aroma. In wet years, fruits may become scabbed. Ripens at the end of September. The fruits are stored until November; they are a table variety.

OTRADNENSKAYA

The tree is medium-sized with a pyramidal crown. The fruits are medium-sized, weighing 120–140 g, round-conical. The main color of the fruit is light green, the outer color is a dark red blush. The pulp is dense, juicy, of good taste. The variety is not damaged by scab and has stable yield. The fruits can be stored in polyethylene in the refrigerator for up to 160 days.

Thumbelina

The tree is winter-hardy in the conditions of the Voronezh region, relatively weak-growing, early-bearing (in the 5-6th year from planting), and productive. The fruits are above average and large, weighing 180–230 g, pear-shaped, light green with an almost continuous raspberry-red blush, good to excellent taste. Consumption period until November. Highly resistant to scab.

FABULOUS

The tree is medium-sized, winter-hardy, productive. The fruits are perfectly regular pear-shaped, yellow-green, with a slight tan on the sunlit side. Average weight 180 g, large ones - up to 250 g. The pulp is tender, juicy, sweet and spicy. Taste qualities are rated at 4.6 points. They ripen in early September and can be stored for up to a month. A very successful combination of large fruit and good taste.

LARINSKAYA

The tree is large, fast-growing, highly winter-hardy, and productive. The fruits are regular pear-shaped, large, weighing up to 200 g, and very attractive. The pulp is juicy, sweet and sour, with a taste rating of 4.5 points. They ripen in early September and can be stored for one and a half to two months. Good for fresh consumption, processing into compotes, juices, dried fruits.

Winter varieties

ROSSOSHANSKAYA LATE

Autumn-winter variety. Scab resistant. The trees are winter-hardy, medium-sized, early-fruiting. The fruits are large - up to 300 g, oval, yellow when ripe, of good taste. Stored until January-February.

RED-SIDED

The fruits are beautiful pear-shaped, yellow-green when ripe, with a blurred red blush, very attractive, with an average weight of 130 g, large - up to 180 g. The pulp is yellow when picked, the taste is tart. During storage, the taste changes unrecognizably. Large, beautiful pears become very sweet, their flesh is white, very juicy, fine-grained, melting. Upon reaching consumer maturity, taste is rated very high at 4.9 points. Stored until the New Year.

DECABRINKA

The tree is medium-sized, winter-hardy, high-yielding. The fruits are dark yellow, slightly tanned, average weight 100 g, large - 120 g. The pulp is white, juicy, sweet. Good for fresh consumption. One of the best varieties that is stored until the New Year.

Hello, dear friends!

“I have already done pruning of the apple tree. This year I want to try pruning a pear tree. Are there any special features when working with it? - asks a regular reader of my blog. In this article I will try to answer this question and tell you in detail about features of pear pruning when growing it.

The basic rules of agricultural technology, including pruning a pear, are very often compared with the techniques of pruning an apple tree. Indeed, the main principles of pruning pear trees, especially in the first years of fruiting, are similar to pruning apple trees of the ringed type of fruiting, that is, those that bear fruit on short branches - ringlets.

The most convenient form of pear crown is to form it like a sparsely tiered, improved cup-shaped, lobed, free-growing palmette.

The pear also has its own characteristics that must be taken into account both when forming the crown of young trees and during maintenance pruning of mature old trees.

• Read also:

The pear is distinguished by pronounced apical growth, and an even more compressed and narrow crown. Almost all varieties of pear are distinguished by good bud awakening, but long growth shoots are formed poorly, most often only from the apical bud or adjacent to it. At the same time, the crown of a pear, even without the intervention of a gardener, usually develops quite successfully. That is, the pear itself forms its own crown, which is sparser and lighter than that of an apple tree.

The difference between pruning a pear and an apple tree

The difference between pruning a pear tree and an apple tree is that the former does not tolerate severe shortening of annual shoots and young branches. Disproportionate shortening leads to a burst of growth and overgrowth to the detriment of crown formation. That is, “panicles” of strong annual shoots grow on strongly shortened branches. Therefore, if there is a need to shorten a branch, then this operation is carried out weaker than in an apple tree, removing only 1/4 or 1/5 of the length of the shoot or branch.

Even at a young age, a pear tree differs from an apple tree in the possibility of a large number of tops appearing on it. Therefore, all poorly located tops (as a rule, they are inside the crown of the tree and clearly thicken it) must be removed, and the rest must be turned into overgrowing branches by pruning or bending.

In young trees, care is taken not to overload the first tier with skeletal branches. If at a height of 60 - 70 centimeters from the first tier you can have 3 - 4 skeletal branches sparsely (running along the trunk), then no more than three branches are left in the lower tier.

When forming the crown of a pear, it is better to resort to gentle pruning techniques: pinching growing shoots to weaken their growth, bending or tightening branches to subordinate them, giving optimal branching angles, etc. However, when bending branches, arched bends of the branches should be avoided. Let me remind you: a large number of top shoots are formed on the upper part of such an arc.

What to remember when pruning a pear tree

In a personal garden (garden), tall pears are inconvenient.

The disadvantages of pear crowns include their pyramidal nature and the rather frequent formation of hanging branches in mature fruit-bearing trees, which hang over each other, thicken and shade bottom part crowns

The advantage of this breed is that it is easy to grow while limiting the height of the crown. This is achieved by annual limiting pruning with the removal of all vertical restoration shoots in the upper part of the crown.

To reduce the negative effects of pruning, narrow pear crowns are expanded by transferring first-order branches (skeletal branches) located close to the center of the crown to outer second-order branches.

It is not difficult to deceive gardeners, because we firmly believe that there are varieties that do not need to be looked after. That you don’t have to spray the trees and the worms won’t touch the apples. It is this “holy faith” that sellers of seedlings exploit with might and main, trying to slip the “linden” to a gullible buyer. Where to go? After all, fashion is changeable, and even a gardener needs to keep up with the times.

First white, then red

Apple tree varieties are the easiest to guess. Their early varieties have light-colored bark, and their late varieties have red bark. But there are also exceptions. For example, Simirenko - with green bark. There are also early varieties with red bark. But here the color is influenced by the color of the fruit. And if they sell you an early variety with green or yellow fruits, then its bark cannot possibly be red. Red? This means there is a mismatch.

Things are more complicated with peach. Many varieties have red bark. Always take such seedlings. And it doesn’t matter what variety the seller “invented”. The red color of the shoots indicates higher frost resistance. And this is exactly what we need.

Roots, not tops

Attention is also paid to the roots. In dwarf and columnar varieties they should be thick - like a beard (fibrous root system). Ordinary apple trees should have 3-5 main roots and smaller ones - less frequently.

But a pear on a pear rootstock has 1-3 squiggles down and that’s it. These are the characteristics of the breed - they immediately go deeper - for water, where there are no competitors.

If they sold you an apple tree with sparse roots, it means they deceived you; dwarfs are not like that.

It is advisable to avoid plum seedlings with red roots. This is a sign that they are grafted onto apricot. It was previously believed that such rootstocks often break off at the grafting site after 3-5 years. Therefore, do not take risks and buy a plum with “plum roots”.

I should shave...

Even after planting, you can distinguish a grafted seedling from an ungrafted one. Take a shovel and dig the ground down to the first root. And look for the thickening: it always remains from the grafting and is easy to find. He is not here? Then prepare the cuttings in the spring. It is advisable to regraft some of the branches with varieties from neighbors.

There is another way to distinguish a savage. Abundant needles on the pear, many sharp thorns on the apricot, and are they sharp? This is almost a sure sign of a savage. On the pear 100%! In the market they act cunningly - the thorns are cut off with pruning shears and covered with mud. After such a “shave,” the seedlings are sold as a normal or fashionable variety.

Just don't blush

You can also distinguish savages by their foliage. Many apple (especially dwarf) and plum rootstocks have red foliage. Other rootstocks are often distinguished by their smaller leaves. If you get wild ones with red leaves, don’t worry. You can graft a cultivated variety onto them and it will become a dwarf. But the “passengers” with small foliage need to be completely re-vaccinated.

And lastly: a sign of wildness is the refusal to bear fruit. Basically, savages begin to bear fruit no earlier than eight years later. How long has there been no fruit? Grab a shovel and look for the grafting site.

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Pear– one of the most delicious and favorite fruits, whose delicate taste is well known to each of us since childhood. The fruit first came to our country back in the 15th century and since then has enjoyed the constant love of children and adults.

In addition to excellent taste, pear can be considered a real storehouse of vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Regular consumption of pears will allow you to:

• normalize metabolism;
• increase protective functions body;
• accelerate tissue healing.

Pears contain an incredible amount of:

• fiber;
• fructose;
• glucose and sucrose;
• vitamins C and P;
• citric acid

...and many other substances essential for health.

Of course, all these useful substances can only be found in those pears that were grown without the use of prohibited fertilizers and were delivered to the store in compliance with all safety standards.

How not to make a mistake with your choice and buy a really tasty and healthy fruit?

Like many other fruits, pears are removed from the tree when unripe. During transportation, the pear ripens on its own, which is why its taste does not suffer at all, but on the contrary, it becomes much more intense. It is recommended to purchase firm and unripe pears. In a few days they will be able to ripen at your home, and at this time you can prepare more than one delicious dish from the unripe and hard fruits.

• Color. It can hardly fully characterize its quality. The fact is that different varieties of pears (and there are more than a thousand of them in the world) have quite different colors. But the presence of black dots on the fruit may be a signal that it is better to refrain from purchasing such fruit.
• Smell. Can be an excellent indicator of its quality. A ripe, delicious pear exudes a delicious, subtle aroma and literally begs to be put into your mouth.
• Integrity. Many suppliers wrap each pear in separate packaging to minimize mechanical damage during transportation. When buying, you should not be lazy and touch each fruit yourself, because many careless sellers, in pursuit of profit, sin by mixing with selected fruits absolutely illiquid goods, which should cost incomparably less, or even be completely disposed of.
• Surface of the fruit. Imported pears brought from afar can be distinguished by their excessive shine and slightly greasy surface to the touch. Foreign suppliers coat fruits with a special composition so that they do not spoil during a long journey. Before eating, such fruits should be thoroughly washed, although some people prefer to simply peel off the skin of the fruit and not use it for food.
• Stalk condition. In a high-quality and ripe pear, the stalk does not yet have time to dry completely and appears elastic and soft to the touch. It is better to prefer such a pear to one whose stalk has already become dry and brittle.

To better navigate the world of fragrant and juicy pears, you should imagine what varieties of pears are the most delicious and popular, and how to distinguish them in the store:

• Duchess. A variety of pears native to France. The color of the fruits of this variety is bright yellow, and the sides of the fruit are pinkish. The pear has wide sides, is very juicy and tasty. The variety is very popular, but it deteriorates quite quickly, so you should be especially careful when purchasing. After harvesting, such a pear can be stored for no more than a week.
• Chinese pear. The shape resembles an apple. The color of the fruit is pale yellow, and the taste of the fruit is crispy, not very sweet and somewhat harsh.
• Williams. This pear comes from England. This fruit can be distinguished by its yellow-green color with reddish sides. Pears of this variety are incredibly tender and juicy. Baby food manufacturers prefer to use this particular variety of pears for their products.
• Conference. This variety also came from England. The fruits have an oblong shape and a yellow-green peel, which, by the way, is quite tough, but incredibly healthy. This variety of pear is very juicy and tasty.
  How to properly store pears?

Of course, it is not enough to know how to choose pears correctly in the store; it is equally important to know how to store them correctly. Pears tend to spoil quite quickly, so for storing them it is best to find a cool place in the refrigerator or on the balcony. Unripe fruits are best stored at room temperature..

So that the delicate aroma of pears does not lose its attractiveness and does not mix with foreign odors, they should be stored separately. Remember that ripe pears can be stored for no more than three days. If any fruit is overripe and begins to spoil, it is best to immediately put it separately or eat it.

Choose pears correctly and enjoy their amazing delicate taste and unique aroma! Bon appetit!

Based on materials from the Foodinformer website

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