Instructions for using the gs 45 chainsaw. Useful tips when working with a chainsaw

Tools used:
chainsaw Makta DCS 7900 (professional);
chainsaw Makta DCS 3435 (amateur).

Those who do not yet have experience using a chainsaw should remember the basic principles of working with this tool:

– the saw must be held with both hands, and the handles should be clasped with all fingers. Wherein thumb the left hand should be under the front handle;

– when working, you cannot stand directly behind the saw; you need to stand slightly to the side of the tool;

– you can cut with both the upper and lower edges of the tool. When sawing with the bottom edge, the chain guides the saw away from the user. When sawing is done with the top edge of the tool, the chain moves the saw towards the user;

– when moving to another place, it is necessary to turn off the engine of the tool or activate the brake of the saw. You cannot move with a saw whose chain rotates;

– you need to start cutting with the section of the tire that is located closer to the body of the tool;

– if planned frequent work with a chainsaw, you need to purchase protective clothing: strong boots (preferably special ones protected with steel plates), strong gloves, special cut-resistant trousers, a bright protective jacket that allows air to pass through, and a helmet with a mask.

1. Preparing for work

Before starting work, check the chain tension - it must be carefully adjusted so that the chain does not sag on the bar during operation. A poorly tensioned chain wears out the bar and sprocket faster, damages the shock absorbers faster and increases the load on the tool body.

– before you start working with a chainsaw, you must read the user manual;

– if the saw chain is new, it is recommended to immerse it in oil for several hours before starting work. If the chain is old, it is necessary to sharpen it: the cutting tools of a poorly sharpened saw wear out quickly.

The saw is placed on a stable surface and fueled. For refilling, you should use only “branded” oils designed specifically for chainsaws. The percentage of oil in this mixture should be 1/40-1/50. To operate imported saws, it is better to use 92-grade gasoline (or a higher grade), while 76-grade gasoline is also suitable for Russian saws.

– to avoid the risk of fire, before starting the engine, the saw is removed from the place where it was filled with fuel and placed again on a solid, stable base.

3. First launch of the tool

Checking that the chain is not touching hard surfaces, activate the chain brake. In this case, the brake handle is moved away from you so that the chain does not start to rotate ahead of time. Since the engine is cold, the choke control lever is pulled out completely. The toe of the foot is threaded into the rear handle (while holding the front handle with your hand). Pull the handle several times, pulling out the starter cord, until the engine “sneezes.” After which the air damper is moved to the working position and the saw is started. Briefly press the throttle and set the saw to idle. The brake handle is moved back to its previous position. The saw is ready for use.

– before work it is necessary to check the brake of the tool. To do this, place the saw on a flat surface and press the throttle. The brake is activated by pressing the handle without releasing the handle of the tool. If the chain stops, the brake is working properly;

– You should also check the lubrication mechanism before work. You need to find some light surface (for example, a freshly cut stump). Hold the tool over the stump, start the chain and increase its speed by pressing the throttle. If a streak of oil appears on the stump, then the lubrication mechanism is in order.

4. Pruning branches

Trimming branches from the trunk of a fallen tree begins from the bottom of the trunk, standing to the left of it. Work is carried out at a slow, calm pace, trying not to use the nose of the saw. They saw both the top and bottom tires, trying to lean the saw against the thigh or trunk whenever possible. Branches from the top of the trunk are cut down by placing the tool on its side (the saw should rest on the trunk with all its weight). After the branches on top and on the side of the lying trunk are cut off, the trunk is turned over and the branches that were below are cut off.

– it should be remembered that sometimes the entire trunk can rest on only one branch: if it is cut, the trunk may move or roll;

– if the branch is thick, you need to cut it down in parts - from the end to the trunk. If the branch is particularly thick, it may require sawing on both sides.

5. Bucking (sawing the trunk into pieces)

Bucking begins when all the branches have been cut from the trunk. The trunk of a lying tree is cut into pieces in the direction from the trunk to the top (butt).

– during the bucking process, it is prohibited to stand below the trunk if it is located on an inclined plane;

– if the saw is stuck in the trunk, you need to stop the engine and tilt the trunk until the saw comes out of the wood. There is no need to immediately remove the saw from the tree.

6. Tree felling

Before cutting down a tree, they determine in which direction it will be “more convenient” for it to fall. To do this, take into account the natural slope of the trunk, the direction of the wind and the number of branches on each of its sides. The tree must be felled in the direction in which it is “more convenient” for it to fall. Immediately before felling, you need to cut off low branches that could interfere with the work. There are several technologies for felling trees, which are selected depending on the thickness of the trunk and other factors. Pick up the best way Only a professional lumberjack can do this.

– if there are people nearby, they should be at a distance of at least 2 tree trunk lengths;

– before starting work, you should make sure that there is nothing around that could be damaged by a fallen tree;

– felling trees is not an easy task: if you do not have experience in such work, it is better to entrust this task to professionals or ask them to be present during the work!

Instrument care

Each time after working with a chainsaw, you must do the following:

1. Check chain tension and lubrication.

If the chain is loose, it needs to be tightened; if the oil runs out, add it to the tank.

When finishing work, you should refuel the machine after a short rest to allow the saw to cool down.

3. Checking the air filter.

From time to time, the filter becomes clogged with chips; after finishing work, it is advisable to remove it, wash it and blow it out. It is also necessary to periodically clean the surfaces around the engine cooling plates from contamination.

Proper operation of any tool must ensure the efficiency of its operation, the safety of the worker and the safety of the tool itself. The peculiarities of chainsaws include their high potential for injury. Therefore, safety requirements for chainsaws are one of the main components in the rules of their operation.

A chainsaw is considered ready for use if it:

• all components and mechanisms are in working order;
• a sharp, correctly tensioned chain is installed;
• fuel and oil tanks are filled;
• carburetor adjusted.

Proper maintenance of a chainsaw involves the timely completion of all operations to ensure that the tool is maintained in good condition. The main ones include: cleaning air filters, adjusting the carburetor, cleaning the spark plug and adjusting the gap between its electrodes, sharpening the chain and replacing wearing parts.

A new chainsaw requires running in for 40-50 minutes at low speeds, after which the chainsaw is turned off and the chain tension is additionally checked. Then you need to make several cuts, applying little force, and only then can you work in normal mode.

Installing the chain and adjusting its tension

Preparing the saw for work usually begins with installing a new or already used sharpened chain on it, which in its parameters (pitch and shank thickness) corresponds to the installed bar. The chain tensioning mechanism on chainsaws is usually implemented in two types - standard linear or high-speed. Depending on the type of mechanism, installation and chain tension vary significantly.

When using a traditional linear mechanism, the chain sprocket cover (1) must be removed by unscrewing the nuts (2).

It is important to remember that before each installation or dismantling of the chain sprocket protective cover, it is necessary to loosen the chain brake, for which it is necessary to pull the brake stop (1) (see photo below) in the direction of the handle (2).

The pin (1) entering the tire hole must be moved in the groove to the extreme left position. This is done using the tension screw (2).

The chain is wound through the clutch (1), put on the drive sprocket and put on the tire. In this case, attention is paid to the location of the cutting edge of the tooth - on the upper branch of the chain it should be directed forward. The chain should pull through easily and the clutch drum should turn as the chain moves.

Then, by rotating the tension screw (1), the bar moves forward until the lower branch of the chain fits into the groove of the bar with its shanks and adheres to its lower one. The final adjustment of the chain tension and tightening of the bar is made after installing the cover in place and preliminary (not completely) tightening the fastening screws.

For greater convenience, the chain tension screw can be located on the side.

A properly tensioned chain should not sag at the bottom or have too much tension. The first is controlled visually, the second - by pulling the chain along the bar by hand. The last operation must be carried out using gloves to avoid cuts. If the lower branch is adjacent to the lower edge of the bar, and the chain can be pulled freely by hand, then its tension is normal.

When checking chain tension, the chain brake, if it has accidentally locked the chain, must be released. Chain tension should be checked frequently - new chains tend to elongate during use.

During sawing, the chain heats up due to friction and lengthens. The chain tension weakens and the chain on the underside of the bar sags. If the work is done at very low temperatures outside air, then the chain, heated to operating temperature, sags so much that it must be tightened. If the chainsaw operation is interrupted, the chain must be loosened immediately, otherwise when cooled to a temperature environment, the chain will be too tight. As a result, the chain may break, as well as damage to the crankshaft and bearings.

Each moving part requires some grinding time when first put into operation. Despite careful processing, each surface has microscopic roughness, which is smoothed out during grinding. For new chains, the break-in time is approximately three minutes. The engine should operate without load (do not cut) with half the supply of the air-fuel mixture. During this time, the surfaces of the chain parts are smoothed and the material settles, the chain sags and must be tightened. During running-in, the friction forces are especially high, so it is important to ensure sufficient lubrication of the chain.

Refueling a chainsaw

Two-stroke chainsaw engines run on a fuel mixture made from two-stroke engine oil and gasoline. That is, the chainsaw engine is lubricated by supplying oil to the cylinder along with fuel. In the operating manuals, chainsaw manufacturers indicate the grade of oil and octane number of gasoline that should be used when operating their tool. They often market oils under their own brand that are recommended as the most suitable ones. The exact ratio of oil and gasoline is also indicated, which, depending on the type of oil, can range from 1:25 to 1:100. The most common ratio is 1:50. The chainsaw engine has a maximum speed of about 13,500 rpm. This imposes strict requirements on the oil added to the fuel mixture.

Oils for the engine and chain are sold in the same place as chainsaws, for example, oil for the engine and for the chain (it’s better to buy through an online store, because in a regular store of this chain the price may be higher).

Dilution of oil in gasoline is carried out in a certain sequence. First, oil is poured into a container (canister), then suitable gasoline for a chainsaw is added to it - in a volume that is approximately half of the total required quantity. After thorough stirring, the second part is added. Before pouring the mixture into the fuel tank, it is thoroughly shaken again. Filling should be done carefully, without spills. You should not pour fuel to the very top of the tank; you must leave a small free space at the top. The volume of chainsaw fuel tanks is usually about 0.5 l, and with a chainsaw power of 2 kW (2.7 hp) and a fuel consumption of about 1.2 l/hour, this volume will be enough for about 30-40 minutes. operation at maximum load. Less powerful chainsaws usually have a smaller fuel tank.

To lubricate chains, chainsaw manufacturers recommend using special oils they sell that contain adhesive additives that ensure oil retention on the chain. Operators often replace them with others - transmission or motor ones. Oil is poured into the tank at the same time as fuel is refueled.

The ratio of tank capacities for fuel and oil is selected in such a way that when the fuel is completely used up, there is still some oil left in the oil tank. However, you should know that the fuel consumption of a chainsaw (see above) depends on the correct adjustment of the carburetor. If the latter is not adjusted correctly, the fuel may run out much faster than the chain oil.

If during operation the amount of oil does not decrease or decreases too slowly, this indicates that the lubrication of the chainsaw chain is impaired - due to a decrease in the conductivity of the channels through which oil is supplied to the bar, or a pump malfunction. The problem must be identified and corrected. The performance of some pumps can be changed manually using an adjusting screw.

To check the operation of the chain lubrication system, a bar with a rotating chain is brought to some light surface (a fresh cut, for example). If a trace of oil splashes appears on the cut surface, it means the system is working normally.

The chain's oil requirements vary depending on the situation. Long cutting lengths, hard, dry wood and thick bark require increased quantity oils Short cuts, soft and damp wood require less oil.

If the cutting set begins to smoke in the cut (not to be confused with light water vapor) and/or the chain gets pinched in the groove of the bar, then this is due to excessive heating. One of the reasons is lack of oil. Other causes that must be taken into account include a dull or improperly sharpened chain or too much chain tension.

If there is no maintenance-free sprocket at the end of the tire (there are holes for its lubrication), then it is lubricated separately - no oil gets onto its bearing.

A well-tuned and adjusted chainsaw should start easily in any conditions. Before starting, it must be installed on a level place - so that the tire does not touch the ground. The chain brake must be activated, i.e. its handle should be moved towards the end of the bar. The chainsaw is started in a position in which the left hand holds the front handle of the saw, the right leg rests on the rear handle, pressing it to the ground.

The peculiarity of the starting process is that at the initial moment an enriched fuel mixture must be supplied to the combustion chamber to facilitate its ignition. As soon as the engine starts, the mixture must be leaner, otherwise the engine will choke. Different saw models have different controls for this process. Some have a choke lever, by switching which the mixture is enriched. In others, there is a multi-stage switch that, by switching from one stage to another as the engine starts, controls the position of the air damper and the degree of richness of the mixture. In addition, during startup, the accelerator (fuel supply lever), which is also connected to the air damper, must occupy a certain position.

For example Stihl chainsaws, the engine starting process is as follows:

Starting the chainsaw: 1 - chain brake, 2 - fuel control lever, 3 - fuel control lever lock.

• Activate the chain brake (1) (see picture above).
• If the saw is equipped with a decompression valve to reduce the pressure in the cylinder, it must be opened (press the button) before starting. This will allow you to start the engine with less effort. When the pressure in the combustion chamber increases, during the first ignitions, the valve closes automatically (the button pops up).
• If there is a fuel pump (primer), then press it 5-7 times.
• Keep the fuel control lever (2) pressed. To do this, press the lock of the fuel control lever (3) and at the same time the fuel control lever (2).
• Set the combination lever (4) to the cold start position (A). When starting a warm engine, the lever is set to position (B).

A - cold start position. B - position for starting a warm engine (half throttle position).

• The starter handle is pulled out until resistance appears and pulled upward with force (with a slight jerk there is a risk of flooding the spark plug). At the same time, it is not pulled out to the very end to avoid breaking the cord and returns back gradually, under tension, so that the cord fits correctly on the drum. If necessary, several jerks are performed. If possible, pull up so that the cable does not rub against the body. The engine starts only for a short time and immediately stalls, that is, the engine has ignited a mixture of fuel and air.
• Open the throttle by moving the combination lever up one detent position (half throttle), (B) in the illustration above. If the lever remains in the cold engine start position, the combustion chamber will overflow and the engine will choke; you will have to unscrew and dry the spark plug and ventilate the combustion chamber. If there is a decompression valve, it must be opened again.
• Pull the starter rope again until the engine starts again.
• Once the engine has started and is running, immediately, briefly press the fuel control lever (2) with your index finger. In this case, the combination lever moves to the position idle move I. The combination lever can be moved to the normal mode position only with the fuel control lever - do not use force. The engine must switch to idle immediately - otherwise, if the clutch drum is blocked by the brake, damage to the chainsaw body and brake may occur.
• Slowly lift the chainsaw off the ground, being careful not to touch the fuel lever.
• After this, release the chain brake by pulling the chain brake stop towards you with your left hand. In this case, the left hand should remain on the handle.
• Before starting work, be sure to check the chain lubrication system. To do this, place the saw on a light background (for example, a stump or a piece of paper laid out on the ground) and give full throttle. If oil stains appear on a light background, this means that the chain lubrication system is functioning normally.

The chainsaws are stopped by switching the switch to the “Stop” (0) position, which breaks the ignition circuit.

Checking the functionality of the chain brake

Before starting work, it is necessary to check the functionality of the chain brake. This can be done in two ways:

• With the brake turned off (its handle is moved to the handle of the chainsaw), increase the engine speed to medium values ​​(the chain moves at medium speed) and press the brake lever, moving it forward. If the chain stops moving, then everything is fine with the brake (see photo below).
• When idling and the chain brake is activated (the handle is shifted forward), increase the engine speed for a short time (no more than 3 seconds) to maximum. If the chain remains stationary, the brake is working correctly.

Using a chainsaw with a faulty chain brake is strictly prohibited.

Working methods and safety measures

You can start working with a chainsaw only if all its components and mechanisms are in working order. When working, you must have a stable position; there should be nothing under your feet that could lead to loss of balance or a fall. The saw should be held firmly with both hands by the front and rear handles. When working, you must adhere to the following basic rules.

Sawing should begin with a moving chain. You can saw using both the lower and upper branches of the chain, but the first method (A) is the main one. When using it, the saw is carried forward, so the toothed fence must rest against the wood. When cutting with the top branch (B), be prepared for the saw to be pushed towards the operator.

You cannot cut several trunks or branches at the same time; you need to ensure that when sawing one trunk or branch, the saw does not touch neighboring ones.

Barrels with internal bending stress should be sawed first from the side of the compressed fibers (side A in the figure below) and finally cut from the side of the stretched fibers (side B). If you do the opposite, the bar and chain will become jammed in the cut.

You need to be careful when sawing splintered trees; the chain can catch and throw out chips with great force. In addition, splintered trees can jam the tire.

When sawing trees lying on the ground, they must be secured against possible rolling under the influence of the saw. It is best to place them on sawhorses.

Tree felling is carried out with two cuts: pruning (A) and cutting (B).

The first specifies the direction in which the tree will fall (indicated by the arrow). It is made at right angles to the desired direction of fall of the trunk, its depth is from 1/5 to 1/3 of the thickness of the tree. First the inclined part is cut, then the horizontal part. The cutting file is placed above the base of the cutting wedge and made horizontal. Between the pruning and cutting cuts, an undercut of approximately 1/10 of the trunk diameter is left.

Prolonged operation of the chainsaw at maximum load leads to strong heating of its parts, so during intensive work it is recommended to take short breaks, leaving the engine idling.

If the chain was tense during operation of the chainsaw (while it was heated), after finishing work it should be loosened so that as it cools and shortens, it does not cause damage to the crankshaft and bearings. When using a new chain, it must be tightened during operation, since its tension will weaken during break-in.

Particular attention should be paid to the risk of kickback, in which the tire is thrown upward with great force.

This happens if:

• the end of the tire accidentally bumps into a tree or other object;
• the chain located at the top of the bar is pinched in the cut;
• When cutting, the tire accidentally comes into contact with another branch.

How to operate a chainsaw so that the risk of kickback is minimal? The rules are:

• do not cut with the top of the tire;
• hold the saw firmly and securely with both hands;
• cut with full fuel supply;
• control the position of the top of the tire;
• do not cut more than one trunk or branch at a time;
• Do not hold the chainsaw at a height above shoulder level.

However, even if all these measures are taken, it cannot be ruled out that kickback will not happen. To prevent its undesirable consequences, the chains are equipped with a chain brake, which stops the chain almost instantly during kickback.

Cleaning Air Filters

If the air filters are heavily contaminated, the flow of air into the carburetor is reduced, which leads to an over-enrichment of the fuel mixture and a drop in engine power. To avoid this, it is necessary to clean the air filters regularly - in particularly dusty and dirty conditions several times a day.

Air purification filters: 1 - cover covering the fine filter, 2 - fine filter, 3 - cover covering the coarse filter, 4 - coarse filter (there may not be a coarse filter).

Before cleaning the filters, it is advisable to close the carburetor air damper - as is done during a cold start. After this, you need to remove the preliminary (if any) and main air filters, close the carburetor suction hole with a clean rag to prevent dirt from getting in there, and start cleaning. First, the filters are purged clean air, then clean with a soft brush. If it is heavily soiled, wash it with water and some household detergent, and then dry it well. Not possible as detergents use chemically active liquids.

Adjusting the chainsaw carburetor

Correct adjustment of the chainsaw carburetor ensures efficient work tool at full power with economical fuel consumption. This must be done with a clean air filter and a properly tensioned chain.

How to adjust a chainsaw of a specific model is described in detail in its operating instructions. For most used carburetors, adjustment is carried out by three screws: for maximum and minimum speed and idle speed adjustment. The photo below shows a Dolmar chainsaw with three holes for access to the adjustment screws.

The designation H refers to the maximum speed screw that controls the main jet, L - to the minimum speed screw that controls the idle jet. Using screw S, the idle speed is precisely adjusted. Sometimes, to simplify setup, the number of available carburetor adjustment screws is reduced.

Setting up a chainsaw carburetor is divided into two stages - basic, carried out with the engine turned off, and final, performed with the engine running and warm. The exact value of the rotation angles should be taken from the operating instructions for the specific chainsaw. Failure to follow the manufacturer's instructions may result in engine damage.

Basic carburetor adjustment. The adjusting screws for maximum H and minimum L revolutions are slowly turned clockwise until they stop, and then turned back 1.5 turns.

Idle speed adjustment. Before adjusting the idle speed, the engine must be warmed up for 3-5 minutes, while avoiding high speeds.

When rotating the idle speed adjustment screw S clockwise, the speed increases, and when rotating counterclockwise, it decreases. By rotating the screw, you need to achieve minimum speed while ensuring stable engine operation. In this case, the chain should not move. Thus, if the engine stops at idle, screw S must be turned clockwise, if the chain moves, the screw must be turned counterclockwise.

Acceleration check. When you gently press the accelerator, the engine should confidently and quickly pick up speed from idle to maximum speed. If the speed is gained slowly, with a delay, screw L must be slowly turned counterclockwise, but no more than 1/8 of a turn.

Checking and adjusting the maximum speed. Changing the maximum number of revolutions is carried out by screw H. When it is turned in (clockwise rotation), the revolutions increase, and when turned out, they decrease. Chainsaw engines have the highest rotation speed around 13,500 rpm. More high speed does not provide ignition, in addition, it becomes dangerous for the engine. Limit speeds can be determined by interruptions in ignition. If they do, screw H is turned slightly counterclockwise.

After adjusting the acceleration and maximum speed, you should check the operation of the saw again at idle speed - the engine should run stably, the chain should not move. If this condition is not met, the chainsaw adjustment must be repeated - with the exception of the basic adjustment stage.

Spark plug maintenance

It is recommended to change spark plugs after about 100 hours of operation of the chainsaw. Signs of their malfunction are insufficient engine power, poor starting, and interruptions in idling. If this is observed, stop the engine and turn out the spark plug, having first removed the cap (1) from it.

To avoid burns from a hot engine, wear gloves when doing this work. If there is carbon deposits on the spark plug, remove it and check the gap between the electrodes. Normally it should be 0.5 mm. After cleaning the carbon deposits and adjusting the gap, check the operation of the spark plug. To do this, turn on the ignition, put a cap on the spark plug, holding it in pliers with insulated handles, press it against the cylinder with the thread and pull the starter cord. The presence of a bright spark indicates the serviceability of the spark plug; its absence indicates a malfunction. The working spark plug is replaced, the faulty spark plug is replaced with a new one.

Replacement of wear parts

Some chainsaw parts that are subject to natural wear and tear must be replaced after a certain period of use. Their failure is not considered a malfunction. Wearing parts include a chain, tire, drive sprocket, anti-vibration system elements and some others.

If you do not replace wearing parts in a timely manner, their excessive wear will negatively affect the remaining components of the chainsaw. In particular, if the tire and drive sprocket are not changed in time, increased vibration will negatively affect the crankshaft bearings. The maximum working depth of the sprocket teeth should be 0.5 mm. In practice, sprockets are often operated to a wear depth of 1 mm or more, without realizing that this leads to increased load on the crankshaft bearings and their accelerated failure. When 3-4 chains wear out, it is necessary to change the tire itself; by this time its wear reaches its maximum values.

The chainsaw bar wears especially badly in the area where cutting is done most frequently, usually the underside of the guide bar. To ensure uniform wear, the bar must be turned 180° relative to the horizontal axis each time the chain is replaced.

When installing a new chain, a new drive sprocket must be installed. Since under normal load the service life of the drive sprocket is twice as long as the service life of the chain, it is advisable to use one sprocket for alternate operation of two chains. Thanks to this, the sprocket and chains wear out almost simultaneously. If a new chain is placed on a worn sprocket, the drive links of the chain will wear out much faster. For cost-effective operation of a chainsaw, always use together: one guide bar, two drive sprockets, four saw chains.

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Before purchasing a good chainsaw, you need to find as many full information about this tool and carefully study the principles of working with it. If you use it correctly, fully meeting your requirements, and learn how to work with it, then working with a chainsaw will give you pleasure, while remaining completely safe.

Basic operating principles

If you have never worked with a chainsaw and have no experience handling it, you need to understand the basic principles of working with this tool:

• You need to hold the saw with both hands, clasping the handles with all your fingers. The left thumb should be under the front handle;
• while working, you cannot stand directly behind the saw; it is advisable to be slightly to the side of the tool;
• You can cut using both the lower and upper edge of the tool. If you cut with the bottom edge, the chain will move the saw away from you, and if you cut with the top edge, the chain will move the saw towards you;
• When using a chainsaw, try not to bend your back; instead, it is better to bend your knees. When working with a saw in a standing position, it is recommended to keep your feet wide apart to maintain balance;
• Before moving to another place, you must activate the saw brake or turn off the tool motor. You cannot move with a tool whose chain rotates;
• sawing should begin with the section of the tire closest to the tool body;
• If you are going to work with a chainsaw often, you must purchase a set of protective clothing: a helmet with a mask, a bright protective jacket that does not allow air to pass through, special trousers that are cut-resistant, strong mittens and durable boots, which should be protected if possible steel plates.

Currently on Russian market can be found a large number of chainsaws, which can be divided into three classes:

1. The first class includes simple household devices that are designed for simple home needs. Most often, such chainsaws have little power, but they cope with all their responsibilities very well. Using such a chainsaw, you can cut down rotten wood or prepare firewood for a bathhouse. Despite the fact that the functionality of such saws is minimal, this is easily compensated for by ergonomic controls and their low weight.
2. The second class includes the so-called semi-professional models, which are capable of performing almost any work - from repair and construction tasks to felling trees. But at the same time, such models have one significant drawback - they are not designed to work 8-10 hours a day. It is for this reason that they are called semi-professional. Most often, loggers use such saws as loppers.
3. The third class includes professional saws, which are an excellent solution for people who specialize in deforestation. Such devices can be used for 10-15 hours a day, allowing you to work without a break for 8-10 hours.

Not everyone knows how to operate a chainsaw, so this question interests everyone who has purchased this high-tech device. Some people think that they already understand everything and don’t even look at the instructions. But such actions can lead to further serious injury or damage to the chainsaw. Therefore, before starting work, do not be lazy and carefully study the instructions.

Preparing for work

First, you need to make sure that the device chain is tensioned correctly, for which you need to slightly pull the upper links - in this case, the shank should come out a few millimeters from the groove of the bar. Also, you need to make sure that the lower links do not sag. After this, try to pull the chain by hand - it should pull easily. If the chain tension is very strong, then it should be loosened. Next, you need to check what position the inertia brake is in - its handle and the main handle should not touch, since when you turn on the chainsaw with an offset inertia brake, the clutch may be damaged.

After checking the chain tension, you can start threading the tool. To do this, the chainsaw must be placed on a horizontal surface and filled with oil to lubricate the chain and the fuel mixture. The best option A fuel mixture of oil intended for two-stroke engines and A-92 or A-95 gasoline is considered. The ratio of gasoline and oil should be 1 to 40 or 1 to 50 (approximately 20-25 grams of oil per liter of gasoline).

For the motor and chain, you should choose a special lubricant designed for chainsaws, since such lubricant contains components that can extend the life of the cutting element and engine parts. At the end of the check, having carried out all the procedures described above, you can start the saw.

Remember that before starting the engine, it is necessary to remove the saw from the place where it was refueled so that there is no fire when starting. Place it on a stable, solid base.

First start

After making sure that the chain is not in contact with any surfaces, you must engage the chain brake by moving the brake handle away from you so that the chain does not start rotating prematurely. Since the engine is initially cold, it is necessary to fully extend the lever that controls the air damper. Next, you should insert your toe into the rear handle, while holding the front handle with your hand, and pull the handle several times until the engine “sneezes.” Then you need to move the air damper to the working position and start the saw, briefly pressing the throttle and moving the saw to idle speed. After this, you need to move the brake handle to the position towards you and your chainsaw is ready for work.

Remember:

• Before starting work, you must definitely check the brake of the chainsaw, for which you need to place it on some flat surface and press the throttle. Next, you need to activate the brake by pressing the handle. The brake is considered working if the chain stops.
• among other things, before starting work you need to check the lubrication mechanism. To do this, you need to find any light surface, start the tool and, holding it above this surface, increase the speed of the chain by simply pressing the throttle. If a small strip of oil appears on the surface, then everything is in order with the lubrication mechanism.

Principle of cutting wood

It is necessary to cut with a chainsaw at full throttle. The cut should be made with a section of the tire located as close to the body as possible. Remember that for different materials You must use your own cutting methods.

Pruning branches

It is best to start trimming the trunk of a fallen tree from the branches from the bottom, while being on the left side of it. The work must be done at a calm, slow pace, trying not to use the nose part of the saw. You can saw both bottom and top part tires, trying to lean the saw against the trunk or thigh if possible. The branches must be cut from the top of the trunk with a tool lying on its side (with its entire weight, the chainsaw should lie directly on the trunk itself). After cutting down the branches that were on the sides and on top, you can turn the trunk over and start cutting off the branches that are on the bottom.

Remember:

• in some cases, the trunk of a fallen tree may rest on one branch, cutting which can cause the trunk to shift or even roll;
• If you come across a branch that is too thick, then you need to cut it down in parts - starting from the end and moving towards the trunk. If the branch is particularly thick, then in this case it may be necessary to cut the branch on both sides.

You should start bucking only after all the branches have been cut from the trunk. You need to cut the trunk of a fallen tree into pieces from the trunk to the top.

Remember:

• during bucking, you should never stand below the trunk if it is located on an inclined plane;
• If suddenly the chainsaw gets stuck in the trunk, you need to stop the engine and then tilt the trunk until the saw comes out of the wood. The saw should not be taken out of the tree immediately.

Felling trees

To begin with, before you start cutting down a tree, you need to determine as accurately as possible where it will be “more convenient” for the tree trunk to fall. To do this, you should take into account how many branches are located on each side, as well as the direction of the wind and the natural slope of the trunk. The tree needs to be felled in the direction where it is “more convenient” for it to fall. Before directly felling the tree, it is necessary to trim the lower branches so that they do not interfere with the work. There are currently several various technologies for felling trees, which should be selected depending on many factors. Only a professional lumberjack can correctly select the most optimal felling method.

Remember:

• if there are people nearby, then they should be at a distance from the tree that is at least two lengths of the trunk of the tree that you are going to cut down;
• Before felling a tree, be sure to make sure that there is nothing nearby that could be damaged by its fall;
• felling trees is enough not an easy task, therefore, if you do not have such experience, it is better not to take on it, but to entrust it to professionals. As a last resort, you can ask them to be present during the felling.

Instrument care

Each time after the chainsaw work is completed, you should perform a number of actions to care for it:

1. First you need to check the chain lubrication and tension. If the chain loosens, it needs to be tightened, and if the oil runs out, just add it to the tank.
2. Allow the saw to cool down after completing all work and after a short rest, refuel it.
3. You also need to check the condition of the air filter, as it can sometimes become clogged with chips. Therefore, upon completion of work, it must be removed, washed and blown. In addition, from time to time you need to clean the surface around the cooling plates.

If you use a chainsaw very often, you will have to change some wearing parts - parts of the anti-vibration system, drive sprocket, bar and chain, since if you do not replace a worn part in time, you can end up with it negative impact on general state tool.

When buying a chainsaw, remember that it is complex technical device requiring special skills and appropriate handling. Of course, everyone can learn short term operate a chainsaw, but do not forget about all possible safety precautions. Carry out periodic inspection of the instrument so that some little thing you have not noticed will not cause it to fail completely.

If you carefully study all the information given in this article, your chainsaw will work for a long time, and you can avoid injuries and unpleasant moments associated with saw breakdown.

Video instructions for working with benzopela

The chain saw has long taken its rightful place in the arsenal of almost every owner. personal plot. Not only professionals, but also amateurs prefer tools that run on a gasoline mixture, as they are more powerful and mobile than their electric counterparts. Almost every person knows or has seen how to work with a chainsaw, but unfortunately, not everyone thinks about the fact that this work is preceded by the stage of mandatory preparation of the tool.

Basic moments preparatory work, the instructions are presented in this video using the example of a two-stroke gasoline saw with a cutting depth of up to 50 cm, a tank with a volume of 750 ml, designed for about an hour of active work.

• First of all, fill the tank with fuel mixture and, if necessary, lubricating oil.
• Check the serviceability of the power button and two levers on the saw.
• Before starting the engine, extend the throttle lever.
• Slightly push back the chain brake handle, which is responsible for emergency stopping of the chain in an emergency.
• Be sure to check the chain tension. Sagging is absolutely unacceptable. To correct the situation, loosen the two bolts on the saw body, tighten the chain with a screwdriver and tighten the bolts again.
• Lock the tool while carrying it to the site.

The chainsaw is ready to go, but before activating it, do not forget to put on basic protective equipment: overalls, boots, gloves and a helmet with a visor and earmuffs.

Disable the blocking directly at the site. To start the saw, pull the starter firmly.

To cut down a tree without special effort, cut a wedge-shaped piece to approximately the middle of the trunk. First make the cut by holding the blade at a downward angle and then at an upward angle. After trimming with reverse side, the tree will give way and fall towards the wedge.

Before sawing off the branches, lay the trunk securely. If it is not possible to cut all the branches at once, first clear one half of the workpiece, then turn the log over and cut off the remaining branches on the other side.

Caution: Do not allow contact under any circumstances saw blade with the earth. This may cause serious damage to the instrument.

Choosing a suitable chainsaw for yourself is not the most difficult thing; extending its service life is much more difficult. The first thing a person who buys has a task is to break it in. This procedure is mandatory and is key in the life of the instrument. You can't just start a new one chain saw and start working. It needs to be fully checked and prepared before you begin your tasks. Should be used, as working with a chainsaw can be dangerous. When cutting wood, chips fly, so you should protect your eyes. It is also better to wear gloves when working with tools to avoid injuring your hands.

Why do you need to break in a new chainsaw?

This is a complex process that requires a responsible approach. A chainsaw is not the exception, but rather the rule. All tools with a two-stroke engine require break-in. Without proper break-in, the life of the tool will be much shorter, and it will perform worse. Everyone who bought this tool should know how to break in a chainsaw.

Why do this? During these manipulations, grinding in of engine parts and saw accessories is carried out.

You need to understand that you need to study the instructions for the tool in detail. You must remember it and use all the recommendations. There is also a lot of information about what not to do or what must be done. If you are a “layman” and have never encountered running in a chainsaw, the instructions for your tool should become your reference book.

How to break in a chainsaw: step-by-step instructions

Before running in, the chainsaw is started for the first time. Be sure to prepare and install the headset correctly. The fuel mixture should already be waiting “in the wings”; the quality of the running-in largely depends on it.

Here in front of you lies a new, sparkling instrument. Looking at him, the question arises: “What needs to be done now?” After reading the instructions, you find out that a run-in is needed and the first launch must be special. How to start a new chainsaw is not yet clear, but now everything will become clearer.

We definitely do the first launch with a headset. You should not start the engine without tires and: the tool must work with them, so it will receive the proper load. You should not make high speeds, this will negatively affect further work saws.

After installing the headset, you need to do the following:

• Make the fuel mixture;
• Check the lubricant and make sure that the bar is compatible with oil and that the chain is constantly lubricated.

Choosing chainsaw oil

Particular attention should be paid to the choice of oil; the operation of the entire tool depends on it. The higher its quality, the longer and more efficiently the chainsaw will serve. You need to buy a special one, which is made specifically for such engines. When using the wrong lubricant, common problems will include:

• Engine breakdowns;
• Ignition problems;
• The chainsaw will stall and sometimes simply refuse to start;
• Overheating of the saw.

Different parts require different lubricants - one oil will not suit all tasks. The choice of this material is one of the most important things when interacting with a chainsaw. The life expectancy of the instrument depends on the decision made.

Special lubricants have been created for Foresta saws, and motor oil will do an excellent job of protecting the “heart” of the tool. Chain lubricant is not suitable for the motor, otherwise the longevity of the tool may be reduced. Even if the oil is of high quality, but is used for other purposes, nothing good will come of it.

For Foresta saws, proprietary lubricants are specially made, which make working with them easier and additionally protect against overheating.

Fuel mixture for first start

More than half of the chain saws on the market use two-stroke engines. For such engines there is no special oil for active parts. You have to make a special lubricant that can replace it. You will need gasoline to make it. good quality and motor oil recommended by the manufacturer.

Selection of ingredients for the mixture

The basis for our mixture will be gasoline. You need to take a petroleum product with an octane number of more than 90. You should not save money and take questionable fuel, then you will pay more for repairs. Additives that increase the octane number are also a dubious choice.

Owners are faced with a choice between leaded and unleaded gasoline. For an engine without a catalyst, you need to take the first option, respectively, if a catalyst is installed, take the second type.

Choosing oil is not difficult, just take a branded lubricant from the chainsaw manufacturer.

If there is no branded one, use JASOFB or ISOEGB class oils.

Production of fuel mixture

To break in the tool, the fuel mixture is made in accordance with the proportion of 1:25, where 40 ml of oil is needed for 1 liter of gasoline. Be sure to follow the proportions; failure to comply can be fatal to the device.

Take a washed vessel and do everything according to the instructions:

• Pour half of the required gasoline into the container;
• Pour out all the oil;
• Stir the resulting substance;
• Add the remaining gasoline and mix.

The video shows how to make it, just don’t forget about the proportions. They differ depending on the chainsaw.

Checking for lubrication

Now important stage, we need to check the lubrication. Please note that this is always done, it does not matter how many times you work with the saw. This will protect the instrument from unexpected damage and overheating. You need to check the following points:

• How much oil is left in the tank;
• Condition of the saw blade channels;
• There should be grease on the drive sprocket needle bearing;
• Is there lubrication on the driven sprocket?

If you see that the channels are clogged, be sure to clean them and lubricate everything. Tests have shown that Foresta chainsaws consume 40% less fuel and lubricant. This makes working with them much easier.

Starting a chainsaw for the first time: step by step

After completing all the steps described above, we proceed to launch. The motor of our saw is not heated, so it starts cold. We place the tool in a stable position, and then follow the instructions:

1. We put the chain brake in the non-working position;
2. Turn on the ignition;
3. Set the air supply damper to the closed position;
4. If the saw has a decompression valve, close it;
5. We set the throttle valve to the starting position;
6. With your left hand, take the front handle of the chainsaw and pull it down;
7. We hold the protective shield of the right handle with our foot;
8. With your right hand, pull the starter handle until the pawls ratchet mechanism will not engage with the starter drum.
9. When you start to feel a little resistance, make a sharp jerk towards yourself.
10. You will see a flash in the combustion chamber, after which you need to return the air damper to old place;
11. We start the chainsaw again;
12. The engine is running, at this moment you need to release the throttle.

Stages of running in a new chainsaw

You've successfully started the saw, now it's time to break in the new tool. It is assumed that you have already studied the instructions and know what not to do. The running itself includes 2 main stages, each stage affects different parts and prepares them for work. Let's look at these stages in more detail.

Almost every person living in a private house or having country cottage area, from time to time uses a chainsaw powered by a gasoline internal combustion engine. Beginners in this regard often have a question about how to start a chainsaw correctly. It is worth noting here that professional, semi-professional and household tools are started in approximately the same way. How exactly to do this will be described in the material.

Tool launch features

To run the tool, several processes need to happen simultaneously:

• the fuel mixture must be supplied under the engine piston;
• it should shrink as much as possible;
• At this point, a spark must be supplied to ignite and start.

Each of these processes occurs the moment you pull the starter handle. Using new chainsaw You must not forget about running in.

However, in reality everything is not so simple. The fuel for starting the tool in hot and cold engine modes must differ in the quality of the air mixture. So, a hot engine can operate with a normal air level, which will ensure its stable operation and will maintain normal idle speed. However, a similar amount of air will be enough to drive a cold engine. Before starting the chainsaw, the starter will need to be pulled about 10 times. and perhaps more.

To reduce the amount of air and increase the fuel supply in the chainsaw carburetor, a special damper is installed, which is responsible for adjusting the amount of air when starting the engine. Starting the engine with a saw will be faster, so the duration of operation of the starter and the saw as a whole will be increased.

It is very dangerous to start the saw at a refueling site.

Start according to instructions

Different models of chainsaws have their own starting features and their own mechanisms. We will look at the device startup algorithm using the example of the popular Stihl M. S. 180 chainsaw model.

Before starting the startup process, it should be noted that the instructions for some chainsaw models state that Before starting the tool, the emergency stop brake must be engaged. for added security. But with a fixed brake, starting will be more difficult..

Accordingly, it will be better to unfix it.

If you do everything correctly, then nothing will be difficult. If you are worried that without fixing the chainsaw at the moment of starting it will cause harm, then it is better not to take risks at all and not get to work. So, the algorithm for launching the Calm tool is as follows:

• Before starting to wind the tool, the damper adjustment lever should be moved to the lower position. Remember that it moves all the way down on the saw only when the gas button is pressed. Press the gas button and move the lever down. This will close the carburetor valve and lock the gas in the pressed position;
• Next, vigorously pull the starter handle until you hear the characteristic sound of an attempt to start the tool. It should stall immediately. Then the damper position adjustment lever is moved one step up;
• In this position, pull the starter handle again until the saw starts. And if it starts, then due to the fact that the gas handle is fixed pressed, the work will take place at high speeds;
• Then press and release the gas button once so that the throttle adjustment lever automatically assumes the operating position and the speed decreases;
• If it is necessary to put a heated chainsaw into operation, you need to put the lever in the working position and then start it;
• To stop the machine's engine, the throttle adjustment lever must be moved to the up position.

Tool Hold

To properly start the chainsaw into operation, you should hold it in the correct way at the moment of starting. The position of the saw is very important here. Holding at the moment of launch can be accomplished in two ways.

In the first case, the saw is placed on a flat surface, left hand in this case, you need to hold it straight and hold the tool by the top handle, place your right foot on the protection for your second hand, and press the instrument itself to the ground. In this position, it will be convenient to launch the tool, since your right hand is free, and the tool is fixed quite securely.

Regardless of the position in which you plan to start the saw, be sure to turn on the saw brake.

In the second option, you need to take a standing position and hold the upper handle of the instrument with your left hand, and hold the back handle between your legs. Thanks to this position, you can easily wind up a low-power tool, and it will be securely locked, thereby protecting yourself from an accident.

Starting without a starter

Often, many home craftsmen are interested in whether it is possible to power a chainsaw without the help of a starter. The answer is very simple: this cannot be done in principle.

None of the manufacturers have provided other alternative starting methods. Therefore, even if you remove the starter and try to start the car in some other way, it still will not work, since disturbances will occur in the cooling system. This system contains a volute to transmit the flow of cold air from the flywheel impeller towards the cylinder. If it is not there, the engine will overheat and eventually seize.

Reasons why the chainsaw does not start

The tool must be launched strictly according to the instructions. But if you have completed all of the above steps, and the saw still does not start, this means that there is something wrong with it. There are several reasons why it may not start:

• no spark;
• fuel is not supplied;
• air filter clogged.

So, what should you do to identify the real reason why the tool does not work?

Firstly, it must be said If the tool does not start, the screws on the carburetor must not be turned under any circumstances.. And if you are not a professional in this field, then even do not try to adjust anything with your own hands or try to start the instrument.

The steps listed below, necessary for the tool to start working, must be performed in the strictly specified sequence. You need to start performing the next step only when the previous one did not work. The actions are:

The above material discussed how to properly start a chainsaw using the example of one of the Calm models, as well as how to behave if the tool cannot start. If you are new to this business or are faced with a problem, then this information may be useful to you in the future.