Amaryllis care after flowering at home. Proper transplantation of amaryllis: the best time and proper preparation for transplantation

Amaryllis is often confused with its closest relative, hippeastrum, but these plants differ in both varieties and flowering. Real amaryllis belladonna is a very rare visitor to apartment windows, and even those who find a rare bulb give it away to other people after a few years, since most often it does not bloom in the apartment. To provide a flower with good care at home, you need to put in a lot of effort and time.

Origin of amaryllis

Amaryllis was discovered by the Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus, and this happened in 1753 in the Cape Province of South Africa.

Amaryllis is a perennial bulbous plant; an adult bulb can grow up to 10 cm in diameter. In nature, flowering occurs at the end of summer. It blooms in a leafless state, producing a bare peduncle up to 60 cm high. At the end of it there is an inflorescence with funnel-shaped flowers. Most often, from 2 to 12 pink flowers bloom, but recently white flowers have also begun to appear.

The homeland of amaryllis is South Africa, their peculiarity is that they bloom without leaves.

Around the same time, on another continent - in South America, hippeastrums were discovered and brought to Europe, which became the favorites of many gardeners.

For a long time, collectors and dealers called hippeastrums amaryllis, and only in 1987 at the International Congress of Botanists they were excluded from the genus Amaryllidaceae and now form their own genus, Hippeastrum.

Hippeastrums were discovered in South America, they are similar to amaryllis, but the leaves and flowers appear at the same time

Table: how to distinguish amaryllis from hippeastrum

Indoor species and varieties of flowers

For a long time, the only representative of the amaryllis species was considered to be Amaryllis belladonna, with flower colors ranging from pale pink to deep purple. But in 1998, a closely related plant was found in the drier and more mountainous areas of Africa, calling it Amaryllis paradisicola.

The new species was distinguished by wider leaves and the number of flowers in the inflorescence (up to 21); in addition, the color of the flowers was uniformly pink.

Both species have a strong aroma, but paradisicola is much more intense.

Amaryllis belladonna was cultivated in the 1700s and was exported to Europe, America and Australia, where much later it was crossed with crinum and brunsvigia. The resulting hybrids have a variety of colors, including stripes and veins and lighter centers of the corollas.

Types and varieties of amaryllis and hippeastrum in the photo

One example where the manufacturer incorrectly called hippeastrum amaryllis Both pink and white amaryllis exist in nature. The color and shape of hippeastrum flowers can vary significantly Amaryllis paradiscola - discovered in 1998, has a strong aroma and a large number of buds

Table - conditions of detention

Planting and replanting amaryllis

Since amaryllis bulbs cannot overwinter even at minimal negative temperatures, it is better to grow the plant in pots. However, in the southern regions of Russia, in the Krasnodar Territory, it is also planted in the ground.

Only in places with warm winters can amaryllis grow in open ground

Choosing a pot

The diameter of the pot for amaryllis should be 4–5 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb itself, that is, when planting, there should be about 2 cm from the bulb to the wall of the pot. The same rule should be followed when transplanting grown plants into a larger pot.

Pots for amaryllis are selected depending on the size and number of bulbs

It is better to take the pots themselves tall, stable, and for group plantings of several bulbs - large flower pots. Since the plant produces a large number of children, group planting is preferable.

Soil selection

Amaryllis is undemanding to the soil - any purchased soil with neutral acidity will suit it, but for better air exchange per 10 liters of soil it is better to add 2-3 liters of coconut substrate and 1 liter of vermiculite.

Since amaryllis belladonna is most often sold as bulbs rather than as flowering plants, they are planted in soil or pots.

Landing

In hot climates with very warm winters, where the temperature does not drop below +10 0 C, amaryllis are planted in the ground so that the entire bulb is immersed in the soil, and then the flower stalks emerge from the bare ground.

Attention, all operations with planting, transplanting, pruning or treating amaryllis bulbs should only be carried out with gloves, since the secreted juice is poisonous.

Is support needed?

Flowers growing in the ground do not need support. When planting bulbs in pots, especially if the bulb is not completely buried in the ground, sometimes you need to put supports to support the flower stalk. With a lack of light, the leaves can also become frail and fall apart; they can be collected using circular supports.

To prevent leaves and flower stalks from falling, use circular supports

Caring for amaryllis at home

Amaryllis is a very rare and exotic plant; caring for it is somewhat difficult.

Watering and fertilizing during cultivation

The growing season of amaryllis begins with the release of a flower arrow at the end of summer, emerging from the bare ground, flower stalks rapidly grow upward and soon bloom. At this time, abundant watering is needed, and amaryllis should also be fed with fertilizers for flowering plants.

Any fertilizer for flowering plants is suitable for feeding amaryllis.

Soon the leaves appear, but if it is cold, then this period can stretch until April, but already at the end of spring the leaves die off and the bulb gathers its strength to bloom. The period of leaf growth is a very important stage, because at this time flower stalks are formed and nutrients are collected, so you need to fertilize every 2 weeks.

Flowering period

Unlike hippeastrum, getting real amaryllis to bloom is not easy. In the ground it blooms on its own, but in pots, purchased bulbs are not always in a hurry to show the arrow. It even grows leaves reluctantly. However, it is believed that if a plant spends the summer in a hot garden in the sun, then with the onset of winter it will definitely bloom.

After flowering, a bulb with seeds may form, and most often leaves appear. The seeds can be collected and planted to produce new plants, the peduncle is broken off or cut off, and the plant itself is well fed.

Photo gallery - amaryllis blooming in a private garden in the Krasnodar region

At the end of summer, amaryllis flower stalks appear straight from the ground Peduncles grow quickly, doubling their height per day Soon the first flowers begin to bloom Blooming amaryllis

Video - amaryllis flowering in the garden, caring for the plant in open ground

Rest period

In apartment conditions, there is little reliable information about the dormant period: most often it is recommended to keep the bulb at a temperature of +10+12 0 C until the leaves appear, without watering, fertilizing, and even without light. However, the calendar winter months fall during the growing season of amaryllis, so the temperature should be +22+24 0 C with daylight hours of 12–14 hours.

Flowers behave completely differently in the garden: after blooming at the end of summer, they can go to sleep until April, without releasing a single leaf. And with the arrival of warm days, the leaves come to life and grow.

Like many other bulbous plants, amaryllis is not formed: it is not pinched or pruned.

Table - problems during cultivation and ways to solve them

Table - diseases and pests of the amaryllis family

Over the 6 years of observing amaryllis, I most often encountered rot due to improper watering in the cold season, as well as a red burn on freshly purchased plants. No pests were noticed, despite the fact that neighboring indoor flowers were damaged. The treatment of the red burn was carried out in a standard way: first it was treated in the Maxim preparation, then it was cut out to living tissue, treated with brilliant green and dried for 24 hours. Particularly damaged bulbs were planted in vermiculite.

Amaryllis is a plant of the Amaryllis family. It is represented by one type - Amaryllis belladonna, which means "Amaryllis beauty." Its homeland is South Africa, but this flower has been popular here for a long time. The ease of care at home and the beauty of this plant attracts many gardeners.

Origin and description

This perennial bulbous plant with very beautiful bell-shaped inflorescences. The diameter of the bulb can be 10 -12 cm. The shape of the bulb resembles a pear. During flowering, the flower produces one (or two) long dense peduncle, up to 50 cm long, on which there can be from 3 to 6 fragrant, beautiful flowers resembling a funnel. Flower diameter is 5 - 8 cm. Flowers have a variety of colors : white, pink, red, purple and their various shades. Amaryllis leaves are straight, 2-3 cm wide, resembling long tongues, which are arranged in two rows.

Often amaryllis confused with hippeastrum. Many gardeners classify these two flowers as one species. Even flower shops sell one instead of the other, without distinguishing them. The plants are really similar and do not differ either in planting or care. But still there are some differences.

• Hippeastrum has a larger bulb, flowers and peduncle itself than amaryllis.
• There are about two thousand varieties of hippeastrum, and only one of amaryllis.
• Amaryllis first blooms, then leaves appear, hipeastrum produces both peduncle and leaves together.
• The peduncle of hipeastrum is hollow inside, while amaryllis is dense.
• Hypeastrum flowers are odorless, amaryllis flowers have a delicate fragrant aroma.

Home care

Indoor amaryllis is an unpretentious plant, but still, in order for it to delight with beautiful and lush flowering, it is necessary to observe certain care conditions when planting, watering and lighting. Thanks to proper care at home, this flower can please you with double flowering.

Landing rules

The natural time for amaryllis bulbs to awaken is from December to April. At this time, the bulbs are not so depleted, and spring and summer are the period when the bulbs restore their strength while at rest. But by changing the timing of planting, you can achieve flowering at any time.

When planting, you need to consider some features:

After all the preparatory steps have been completed, you can begin planting the flower bulb. The pot is filled halfway prepared, slightly moistened soil. Then place the onion in the center and add soil so that part of the onion remains above the ground. The soil around the bulb must be carefully compacted.

As for amaryllis transplantation, it is carried out once every 3-4 years. This plant is a perennial, so it does not need annual replanting. You can replace only the top layer of soil with a more nutritious one, but if the bulb has grown significantly, then you can replant it earlier. Transplantation is also carried out to separate small bulbs (babies) from the adult bulb, which also contributes to abundant flowering. Transplantation is carried out after flowering has ended and the peduncle has completely dried out. This method of caring for amaryllis helps to restore the bulb after flowering and prepare the plant. to the rest period.

Secrets of watering

Another condition for proper care is watering.

Watering amaryllis differs depending on the stage of its development. So, at the growth stage, until the flower takes root and begins to sprout, it does not need abundant watering, as this can lead to rotting of both the roots and the bulbs themselves. Watering begins when the peduncle grows to a height of about 10 cm, but even at this stage it is important to ensure that the soil does not become waterlogged. It's better to forget to water than over-water the soil.

When amaryllis is at the flowering stage, it needs to be well watered - the soil should be constantly moist. You need to water with settled water at room temperature. This should be done at intervals of 2 - 3 days.

At home, amaryllis blooms for up to 20 days. After the flower has bloomed, watering is reduced and, within two months, stopped completely so that the flower goes into a dormant state.

Lighting and humidification

Amaryllis is not very demanding to care for, but still, as for lighting, during the period of growth and flowering, it needs bright, diffused light. For normal flower development during these periods, daylight hours should be about 16 hours. Therefore, in apartments it should be placed on south-west and south-east windows. This flower will also feel great on south-facing windows, but it is needed during the daytime. shade from the scorching sun. In addition, in order for the amaryllis peduncle to be straight and not deviate to the side, the pot with the flower must be constantly rotated.

During the dormant period for amaryllis, lighting does not play a big role.

As for air humidity, it does not play a big role for the normal growth and flowering of amaryllis. To prevent pests, you can give the plant a wet shower or simply wipe the leaves. But during the flowering period, all these techniques are prohibited.

Fertilizer application

Caring for amaryllis at home will not be complete without feeding and fertilizing. This will allow for better growth and active flowering.

Amaryllis feeding begins from the moment appearance of buds until the leaves completely wither. During the dormant period, the plant does not need fertilizer.

To feed the flower, it is better to use purchased liquid fertilizers for flowering bulbous plants, which are applied 2 times a month.

It is also important not to overfeed the plant after flowering. This type of flower grows leaves after flowering, so it is important not to grow a large number of them. To do this, it is necessary to use fertilizers for flowering plants, rich in phosphorus and potassium. And, under no circumstances, do not use fertilizers for foliage plants, rich in nitrogen. This rule will increase flowering and reduce leaf growth.

Amaryllis propagation

Amaryllis, as bulbous plants, reproduce in two ways:

1. Using seeds.
2. With the help of children that form on adult bulbs.

When propagating amaryllis from seeds, they must first be formed. To obtain seeds, the flower must be artificially pollinated. To do this, pollen is transferred from the stamens to the pistil using a brush. After a few months, a box with seeds is formed, which look like little bulbs. After ripening, the seed bulbs are placed in nutrient soil for rooting.

At home, using seeds, propagation is carried out extremely rarely. This is a labor-intensive process and unreliable, since the new plant may differ from the mother plant. In addition, a plant grown from seeds blooms only in the 7th year.

A simpler and more often used method of reproduction is reproduction by children. These are small bulbs that have separated from the adult mother bulb. When transplanting amaryllis, which is carried out no more than once every 3-4 years, the resulting children are separated. The separated bulbs are immediately planted in the ground as an adult plant. They are not given a period of rest, but are constantly watered and fed. Young plants grow very quickly, but bloom only after 3 years.

Amaryllis: care during the dormant period

To achieve abundant and lush flowering amaryllis, all stages of flower development must be observed. And one of the main stages is the period of rest. It begins after all the leaves on the plant turn yellow and dry and lasts about 3 months. This stage is very important, since at this time the bulb accumulates strength for future flowering.

Amaryllis is introduced into a dormant state gradually.

• After flowering, watering and fertilizing are gradually reduced for the plant. After the peduncle has completely dried out, stop watering altogether.
• The leaves are not cut until they are dry, because the bulb receives all its nutrients from them.
• The flower is transferred to a cool, dark room, where it is left for several months to rest.

When the flower has rested, place it again in a bright place and slowly begin to water it.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

The most common pests are:

Amaryllis also susceptible to fungal diseases :

• anthracnose- this disease provokes the appearance of dark spots on the surface of leaves or brown streaks at their ends.
• stagonosporosis- this is redness of the bulbs. For this disease, the bulb is treated with potassium permanganate.
• fusarium- This is root rotting. With this disease, the bulb can rarely be saved.

In case of fungal diseases, the plant bulb is treated with fungicides, the leaves are removed and replanted in new soil. At the same time, in case of any disease of amaryllis, it must be isolated from other plants.

Growing and flowering problems

Despite the ease of caring for the amaryllis flower, sometimes problems arise when growing it.

The beauty of amaryllis lies in its beautiful flowers, but with insufficient care you may not get this beautiful flowering. The reasons why amaryllis does not bloom may be as follows:

• there is not enough sunlight.
• there was no rest period.
• low room temperature.
• infertile soil.
• small pot.
• too many small onions (babies).
• The bulb is planted too deep.
• the bulb is infected with pests or diseases.
• The plant bulb is still young to flower.

All these factors weaken the plant and it not enough strength to bloom. Therefore, in order for amaryllis to always delight you with its gorgeous blooms, you must follow simple rules for caring for this flower.

The perennial herbaceous plant Amaryllis (Amaryllis) is one of the most beautiful and widespread house flowers.

The name of the flower, translated, means sparkling, which fully characterizes the appearance of the plant. One of the common names of the flower is March lily.

Origin

Description

The amaryllis flower resembles the beautiful hipperastrum in its appearance, which often causes confusion. The large (up to 12 cm) fleshy flower bulb, shaped like a pear, produces a strong, bright green stem - peduncle; amaryllis leaves are long - up to 60 cm, belt-shaped.

The most striking differences in the appearance of amaryllis from hipperastrum are as follows:

1. amaryllis leaves appear only after flowering; foliage is present on flowering hipperastrum;
2. The peduncle of hipperastrum is hollow inside and gray-green in color; in amaryllis the stem is dense and burgundy;
3. The bulb of amaryllis is pear-shaped, while that of hipperastrum is round.

Attention! Amaryllis bulb is poisonous! Its juice contains the alkaloid lycorine, which can cause burns on the skin. Therefore, you need to work with the plant wearing rubber gloves.

At the end of the amaryllis stem, one or more large, fragrant, lily-shaped flowers open. The color of the flowers can be white, red, pink, crimson, and there are varieties with variegated flowers.

Amaryllis varieties

For a long time it was believed that the genus of amaryllis was represented by a single species - Amaryllis belladonna or beautiful. Modern botanists claim that some other plants belong to the genus, for example Amaryllis paradisicola. Almost all modern amaryllis varieties are derived from the Amaryllis belladonna species.

Breeders have developed varieties of indoor flowers of amazing beauty: the diameter of an amaryllis flower reaches 13–15 cm; there are not only simple ones (for example, Exotica, Rosalie, Moonlight), but also double forms (Snow Queen, Pink Nymph).

Varieties with stripes on the flower petals or throat painted in a different color look impressive. For example:

All varieties of amaryllis have a pleasant aroma. You can appreciate the lush beauty of amaryllis by looking at a photo of the flower.

Features of amaryllis agricultural technology

In the climate of our country, this flower is grown only indoors. The life cycle of amaryllis, like all bulbous plants, is divided into an active phase of growth and flowering and a dormant period. Care and environmental requirements are different during these phases.

During the active phase, amaryllis requires:

Preparing the pot and soil for amaryllis

The flower pot for the plant is chosen to be heavy and wide enough, giving preference to a ceramic one. Amaryllis produces a flower stalk up to half a meter long, on which it forms large flowers, so the plant requires a strong, stable base. The size of the pot is selected based on the diameter of the bulb; there should be no more than 5 cm between it and the walls of the container. It is better not to skimp on the depth of the pot; amaryllis has a developed root system that requires enough space.

When choosing soil for amaryllis, you can choose a purchased substrate for bulbous plants. But, you can prepare a good mixture at home. Several proven soil compositions for amaryllis:

1. turf soil, coarse calcined river sand and humus, taken in a ratio of 2:2:1;
2. garden soil, humus, peat, sand in equal parts;
3. garden soil and humus in equal parts, and sand, twice as much in volume.

At the bottom of the flower containers, with the obligatory presence of drainage holes, a layer of expanded clay, gravel or pebbles, 2 cm thick, is poured. A layer of clean sand of the same thickness is poured on top of the drainage, and only the prepared soil is poured onto this cushion.

Planting amaryllis

In order for the plant to delight you with lush flowering without causing any trouble, you need to choose only healthy bulbs for planting. They should be large, full-bodied, fairly rigid, without dents, wounds or traces of mold. Preference should be given to onions with good, fleshy, whitish roots.

Before planting, amaryllis bulbs are cleaned of dry brown scales, leaving only fresh light tissue. Planting material for the prevention of fungal diseases is pickled for half an hour in a raspberry solution of potassium permanganate or any fungicide (Maxim, Fitosporin). After processing, the amaryllis is dried for about a day.

Prepared soil is poured into the flower pot up to half the height of the dish. Stick 1 – 2 sticks of long-lasting mineral fertilizer into the middle of the pot. The bulb is lightly pressed into the soil, with the blunt end down, strictly in the center of the pot. Cover with soil, leaving at least a third of the bulb on the surface. Immediately after planting, water the amaryllis directly over the bulb, allowing the soil to settle well. If necessary, add more soil.

Immediately after planting the bulb in the ground, active growth of the plant begins. Flowering occurs 8 weeks after planting.

Caring for Blooming Amaryllis

In addition to regular watering (every 3-4 days), the flowering plant needs feeding. Starting from the period of bud formation, amaryllis is watered with a fertilizer solution every two weeks. Any phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for flowers are suitable (Kemira Lux, Rainbow, Agricola, Ava). Fertilizers are diluted in water according to the attached instructions.

Feeding is stopped when the amaryllis fades and its above-ground part dies. If the amaryllis bulb produces more than two flower stalks, it is recommended to cut off the excess stems so as not to weaken the plant.

Pests, diseases

The plant may be subject to diseases such as rot, mold, and burns. Prevention and treatment consist of removing the affected leaves or parts of the bulbs, and treating the plant with fungicides (Bordeaux mixture, foundationol).

Of the pests that can annoy the flower

Once every 3–4 years, the amaryllis needs to be transplanted into a new container, at the same time separating the baby from the bulb. In order for the plant to tolerate the transplant well, 3 days before the operation, it is watered abundantly.
Carefully remove the flower from the pot and shake off the soil from the roots. The bulb and roots are examined most carefully.

All dried, rotten parts are cut off, the sections are treated with brilliant green or dusted with charcoal.

Quite often, inexperienced gardeners are faced with the problem of lack of flowering in amaryllis, although it seemed that all the conditions for the plant had been created. The most common reasons for amaryllis failure to bloom:

The easiest way to propagate amaryllis

For a beginning gardener, the easiest way is to plant baby amaryllis (small bulbs growing near the bottom of an adult bulb). When replanting amaryllis again, the baby is carefully separated from the mother plant. The onions are cleaned and treated in a pink solution of potassium permanganate, and planted in a suitable container for growing. It is important to remember that the bulb grows, so it needs to choose a pot “for growth.”

There is no need to organize a rest period for the baby. Before the first flowering, the amaryllis baby is watered and fed as usual.

Watch also the video

Amaryllis is a popular indoor plant that is found in the flower collections of many gardeners. Demanded for its beautiful flowers and easy care. To make amaryllis feel comfortable in an apartment, you don’t need to try too hard. This task will be suitable for beginners as well. If you want to have a plant with beautiful flowers at home, but do not want to do much work with it, choose amaryllis, as it is best suited for this purpose.

Conditions for growing amaryllis

For amaryllis, growing conditions differ depending on the growing season. So, at a certain time the plant actively grows, and at another time it begins to rest. Growers need to be aware of the inability of amaryllis to survive in very cold conditions, when temperatures hover near freezing. The opposite situation, when the air is very hot and humid, as in the tropics, will also be detrimental to the plant.

Ideal conditions for the growth of amaryllis in different phases of development.

1. Location:

• During the growth phase, this window is in the southeast or southwest. You can also place the plant on a south-facing window, if you first shade it from the scorching daytime rays of the sun. Otherwise, the leaves will burn out from intense lighting.
• During dormancy, the plant is placed in a dark place where the air is slightly cool and well ventilated.

2. Lighting conditions:

• During the growth phase, the plant should receive 14-16 hours of powerful, diffused sunlight each day. Both the leaves and the peduncle usually reach towards the sun, which means that the pot will have to be constantly rotated so that they grow strictly vertically. You can also equip the plant with special supports.
• During the dormant period, accordingly, no additional lighting requirements are put forward.

3. Humidity:

The plant loves moisture, so it is recommended to water it regularly with settled water at room temperature, through a tray, from which excess water is drained after 6-8 hours. Make sure that the earthen lump is moist, but there is no need to bring the amount of moisture to excess. During flowering, even more water is needed. If it stagnates, then rotting of the roots, withering of leaves, and loss of flowers will begin. You can also spray the leaves - this will not harm the flowers. Moreover, it is recommended to moisten the buds before flowering. Optimal humidity should be 60-80%.

During the dormant period, watering the plant at this time is prohibited. The soil is only sprayed periodically. Watering is resumed only when a new peduncle appears and grows up to 10 cm. In the place where the pot will stand during the dormant period, the humidity should be 60-70%.

4. Ventilation

Amaryllis needs to ensure regular ventilation of the room, but without drafts.

5. Optimal room temperature:

• During the active growing season - 22–24ºС during the daytime and 18ºС at night. It is necessary to ensure that the plant does not suffer from constant temperature fluctuations.
• During the rest period, both day and night, the temperature should be 10–12ºС.

How to plant amaryllis

Choosing a pot

Before planting amaryllis, choose the most successful pot. It must be a heavy and stable vessel. The flower will try to grow a powerful and tall peduncle, as well as a large number of leaves, which means that it can overturn itself. In addition, during care, a lightweight pot is more likely to be touched than a massive one.

The size of the vessel is selected based on the parameters of the bulb. Ideally, it should be the main object in the pot. This means that from it to all the walls there should be up to 3-5 cm. As for the depth of the pot, it should be maximum, since the plant develops a large root system. You can choose a vessel that is wide at the bottom and gradually narrows at the top.

Soil preparation

It is very fashionable to plant several bulbs in one pot so that their simultaneous flowering is even more spectacular. In this case, the distance between them should be at least 2-3 cm.

Next we move on to choosing soil. The easiest option is to go to a specialized store and buy ready-made soil for bulbs. But any experienced gardener will abandon this idea and go prepare the substrate himself. Do not forget to sterilize the soil: to do this, pour it over with strong boiling water or hold it over hot steam for about half an hour. You can also freeze it in the freezer.

The composition of the substrate, which you can prepare yourself, often looks like one of the following options:

• turf, garden soil and river sand in equal parts and half of humus;
• turf, garden soil, humus, river sand and peat in equal parts;
• humus, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

It is necessary to fill the bottom with drainage 2-3 cm thick. To do this, you can take pebbles, gravel, expanded clay, accessible brick chips, and small fragments of ceramics. Part of the drainage is mixed with the substrate and distributed over the surface of the pot. A large hole is also made in it to drain water.

The drainage from above is also covered with sand to a depth of 2-3 cm, in order to additionally protect against rotting of the roots due to the accumulation of water.

Planting amaryllis step by step

To plant a new plant, you need to choose the most beautiful ones with a smooth surface and good enough roots. It is necessary to ensure that the bulb does not have cracks, dents, scratches, places of rot, mold, or stains. If the bulb has an unpleasant sweet smell, you should not choose it either.

Amaryllis transplant

How to replant amaryllis at home

Amaryllis is transplanted after it has bloomed, waiting until the peduncle has completely withered.

There is no need to replant the plant every year, and the operation is performed no more often than once every three years. If the amaryllis grows too quickly, you can transplant it earlier.

To renew the soil mixture and give the plant more nutrients, replace the top 3-4 centimeters of soil in the pot with new ones every year.

1. Before transplanting, water the plant abundantly 4 days before replanting.
2. On the day of transplantation, carefully remove the amaryllis along with the soil and carefully clear it of it to inspect the condition of the roots. Rotten roots are removed with a sharp knife, and all sections are treated with activated carbon powder or ordinary ash.
3. Then all bad scales are removed from the bulb and the daughter plants are separated. They are used to plant in new pots. If you understand that the babies are too small to be separated (sometimes they are only a few millimeters), you don’t have to do this. But it should be borne in mind that in such cases the amaryllis may stop blooming in order to grow more children.

Before an adult plant is planted in another pot, it needs to be fed. Several sticks of Agricola or other mineral fertilizer are applied under the roots.

Amaryllis propagation

Breeders and gardeners use all three possible methods of propagating amaryllis - by dividing the bulb, by children and by seeds.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

This is the longest method of reproduction and the least successful. If seeds are collected from hybrid plants, varietal characteristics are not preserved, and flowering appears only after 8 years. The only advantage is the slow aging of the bulbs.

To obtain seeds you need two amaryllis. With a brush, pollen is taken from one and applied to the pistil of the other. As a result, a box is formed in which the seeds will then ripen. Ripening takes at least a month.

• Seeds are planted immediately, as germination rate drops sharply over time.
• Before planting, moisten the soil well.
• Planting depth is 1-1.5 cm.
• Distance between seeds 3-5 cm
• Place the pot with seeds in a warm, shaded place.
• They wait about a month for the emergence of seedlings, and 3 months after that, the seedlings are planted in different pots.

Dividing the bulb

This is the most risky method, as you can be left with nothing.

• Choose the healthiest onion and divide it into 4-8 shares, without cutting to the end. Make sure that each of them has 1-2 scales and part of the bottom. Be sure to treat the cuts with activated carbon powder or ash.
• The bulb is planted in the usual way and grown at 25–27 ºС.
• The first leaf grows on the cuttings. They wait for the second one, and plant the plants in mature soil for bulbous plants, which is mixed with an equal amount of sand.

This video will tell you how to cut an amaryllis bulb:

Many gardeners successfully use bulb division to propagate amaryllis; it is important to just do everything right and not be afraid to take risks.

Reproduction by children

The most successful amaryllis. 2-3 years after planting, the bulb will bloom. Daughter bulbs are planted in the same way as new store-bought ones, but choose a slightly larger pot. This is due to the rapid growth of children.

1. Find small bulbs on the mother amaryllis and separate them from the adult plant. The next step is to plant them in a pot with drainage and soil, placing the bottom down and pressing lightly into the ground. Only part of the onion is left above the surface.
2. Then lightly compact the soil and water it well. Place new amaryllis in a bright and warm place.
3. There is no need to organize a rest period. Feeding and watering are not reduced, and the flowers are given rest only after flowering.

Amaryllis, although an exotic plant, is quite real in everyone’s home. If you follow the rules for its care, you can often enjoy its flowers.

Caring for amaryllis at home

Watering and fertilizing

During growth, amaryllis is watered carefully. This is done when the peduncle is at least 10 cm high. This flower likes to receive a lot of water, but not in a stagnant state. Sometimes it is better to refuse watering than to flood the plant. It is best to add water to the pot every four days, making sure that the water does not get on the bulb while watering. It should fall purely on the soil around it.

In winter, the plant should not receive so much water. It is enough to spray no more than once a week.

• Fertilize amaryllis every 12-14 days, starting this process when buds form.
• With intense flowering, reduce the interval by half. There is no need to specifically select fertilizers. For this, any ready-made products for indoor flowering plants will do - Kemira Lux, Emerald, Bona Forte, Ideal, Ava, Rainbow, Florist, Master Color, Agricola, Living World, Reasil, Bud, Power of Life and others.
• Fertilizers with more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen are preferable.

It is also possible to use natural organic fertilizers - fresh manure is diluted at a ratio of 1.5 cups per 10 liters of water, and bird droppings - a third of a cup per 10 liters.

When the leaves die completely, feeding stops. It is not carried out during the resting phase either.

Blooming amaryllis at home

Amaryllis in the wild enters the flowering phase in early autumn. In indoor floriculture there are tricks on how to change this period. The easiest way is to plant the bulbs at a different time. So, when choosing healthy specimens, they begin to grow immediately after planting, producing mature peduncles already in 7-8 weeks. Here you need to observe - if there are more than two peduncles, they are removed so as not to overload the bulb with flowering.

When the first flower appears and blooms, some cut off the peduncle and place it in a vase. Provided the water is updated daily, it can last there for up to three weeks. You don’t have to cut the peduncle, but it will last just as long and will deplete the bulb much more. To maximize flowering time, place the vase or pot of flowers in a cooler, darker location.

How to make amaryllis bloom Why amaryllis does not bloom

You must understand which of the reasons listed is present for you. It needs to be eliminated and the result expected.

Amaryllis after flowering

1. When flowers wilt, the amount of incoming water and fertilizer is sharply reduced. They completely stop watering and feeding amaryllis when there are no peduncles or leaves left.
2. All dead leaves are removed, but this should not be done forcibly. If you leave a partially living leaf, it will still feed the plant.
3. When the resting phase has finally begun, the pot is transferred to the dark. Remember that the roots are still alive, so the soil needs to be irrigated once a week with a spray bottle.

Another care option (but risky) is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and place them in cardboard boxes for storage. But you can disrupt some process and cause the roots to dry out.

Experienced flower growers know the tricks that make them grow amaryllis twice a year - in early autumn and early spring. To do this, strictly organize a rest period for the bulb to rest and accumulate the necessary nutrients. In January, pots with amaryllis are taken out from their resting place, placed in a bright and insulated place, and watered. Monitor soil moisture. All this stimulates a phase of rapid growth.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis

1. Stagonosporosis (red burn)

• The bulb is covered with small red spots, the edges of the scales have the same border.
• Amaryllis is soaked for 2 hours in strong purple potassium permanganate, after which the largest lesions are cut off and treated with brilliant green. Leave the plant in the air for a week, then plant it.

2. Mold and rot

• The surface of the bulb is covered with red-gray spots. Then it becomes softer and smells a sweetish type. The leaves are covered with red-brown stripes and spots.
• The affected leaves are completely cut off, and the bulb itself is sprayed with 0.05% Bordeaux mixture. You can choose Fundazol and HOM in the dilution specified by the manufacturer.

3. Spider mite

• It feels like the leaves are covered with cobwebs. This leads to their withering and drying out.
• Amaryllis is treated with Oberon, Kleschevit, Nisoran, Floromite, Neoron.

4. Onion mite

• The insect attacks the bulb itself, which leads to inhibition of plant development and lack of flowering. Even if there are flowers, they are deformed. And the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
• The bulbs are removed from the pots and placed in water at 35–40ºC for 5 minutes. After this, they are treated with Keltan and Rogor. There is also a more aggressive method - the onion is closed in an airtight container with a sulfur bomb, which is set on fire. They wait 2 hours, after which they take it back. To achieve the final effect, keep the amaryllis in the fresh air for another day.

5. Trips

• There are many small brown spots on the leaves.
• They try to remove all pests from the leaves, wash the plant and replant it in a sterile pot and soil. Then the amaryllis is treated with Agravertin and Fitoverm.

6. Mealybug

• Dense scales are observed at the bottom of the leaves. They can be almost white or even dark brown. Around them there is a sticky discharge, similar in type to syrup.
• The sponge is soaked in laundry soap and foamed. The leaves are actively wiped with it.

9. Aphids

• Yellowness of leaves.
• All pests are collected by hand, after which the leaves are wiped with soapy water.

10. Springtail

Springtails on amaryllis photo

• Small white insects are visible on the surface of the soil.
• The moisture supply is reduced, the top layer of soil is replaced with a new one, and treated with insecticides.

Amaryllis varieties and breeding tasks

Stores sell modern hybrid varieties of amaryllis that are selectively bred. True Amaryllis belladonna is extremely rare and is prized by avid gardeners.

At the moment, breeders are achieving the following goals:

• Growing large double and regular flowers. The most beautiful terry-type hybrids are Snow Queen, Macarena, Celica, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Promise. Non-double varieties include Benfica, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Black Pearl, Exotic, Lemon-Lime, Rosalie.
• Search for unique shades and their combinations. In this sense, Clown, Charisma, Estella, Prelude, Santa Cruz, Neon and other varieties are good.
• Working with new flower forms. The recent trend in breeding is the breeding of amaryllis with narrow petals that are partially corrugated at the edges. This can be seen in the varieties Evergreen, Night Star, Lima, La Paz, Santana.

This does not mean that classic amaryllis is not in demand on the market. Standard varieties include Durban (carmine-colored flowers with a white vein in the middle), Pink Gorgeous (pink-white petals), Parker (yellow center and purple-pink edges), Maxima (bright pink flowers with a strong aroma), Hathor (yellow center and white petals) are no less popular.

Hippeastrum and amaryllis differences Plant photos

Amaryllis and hippeastrum from the Amaryllidaceae family. Only in the first genus there are significantly more plants. At least 90 species grow in the wild alone, and with breeding varieties, the hippeastrum family has up to 2000 varieties. They have a lot in common with amaryllis, so even experienced sellers can confuse these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum

In order not to repeat ourselves, below each first point refers to amaryllis, the second - to hippeastrum.

1. Flowering time:

• amaryllis blooms in late summer - early autumn;
• hippeastrum - at the end of winter or beginning of spring.

2. Place of origin:

• Africa;
• South America respectively.

3. Saturation of aroma:

• bright;
• Hardly ever.

4. Flower size:

• for amaryllis 10-12 cm;
• at hippeastrum 6-8 cm.

5. Number of flowers per plant:

• 4-6, can reach 12 pieces;
• 2-4, maybe 6 flowers.

6. Natural coloring of wild plants:

• almost white, pink in different shades, red;
• red, pink, white, yellow, orange, purple, green and combinations of these colors.

7. Presence of leaves during flowering:

• no - they germinate only after the peduncle has grown;
• present during flowering.

8. Characteristics of the peduncle:

• a dense tube without voids, the color of which is slightly purple;
• the hollow tube, which is easy to crush when pressed, has a green color with a grayish-brown tint.

9. Peduncle length:

• for amaryllis 40-60 cm;
• at hippeastrum 60-70 cm.

10. Characteristics of the bulb by shape:

• pear-shaped;
• slightly elongated or round, slightly flattened at the side.

11. Characteristics of scales:

• ash-gray in color, have a small fringe on the upper edge;
• very similar in appearance to the classic edible onion, but have a white or green surface color.

Description of amaryllis

Amaryllis (lat. Amaryllis) is the most common genus of the amaryllis family (lat. Amaryllidaceae). Initially, botanists attributed one plant species to it - Amaryllis belladonna (or Amaryllis belladonna). Over time, approaches to taxonomy changed, and two more species of amaryllis were included here - Amaryllis sarniensis and Amaryllis paradisicola.

Amaryllis belladonna comes from southern Africa. Researchers claim that the plant spread from the Olifants River valley from the Cape Province of South Africa. As for other species, the geography here is wider - South Africa, Japan, Australia, some islands of the English Channel - they can be considered the homeland of plants.

The genus amaryllis was first described by the famous Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus in 1753, who was engaged in taxonomy. He is responsible for the name of this flower. Before his work, there was an opinion that amaryllis was just one of the subspecies of lilies. They called him lionartsis. Linnaeus realized that this was a separate plant, but introduced a significant error in taxonomy by including a number of varieties of hippeastrum in the amaryllis genus. To this day, many people confuse these plants.

The name of the plant first appears in the works of Virgil. In his poetic works you can find a heroine - the shepherdess Amaryllis or Amaryllis. This name means "sparkling" in Greek.

Amaryllis is a bulbous perennial flower with dark green smooth leaves. The greenery of the plant is so narrow and long that it looks like a belt. The leaves are arranged in two rows.

The beginning of amaryllis flowering is marked by the growth of a long hollow tube of 40-60 cm - this is a peduncle. The plant produces up to three peduncles. Then the leaves grow. In the wild, this occurs in late summer - early autumn. Each peduncle bears 2-12 flowers, depending on the variety. The type of inflorescence is an umbrella.

Amaryllis growing in the wild can have flowers with white, pink and red petals in various shades. Breeders have artificially bred many hybrid varieties of yellow, purple, orange, and green colors. An individual amaryllis flower is similar to a lily and a gramophone, measuring 10-12 centimeters in diameter.

Despite the apparent cuteness of the plant, amaryllis has poisonous parts. The alkaloid lycorine was found in the bulb. If it gets on your skin, it will cause irritation. All planting operations with the plant should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, and then wash your hands with soap. You need to keep the flower away from pets and children.